LEEKS

I DIDN’T UNDERSTAND LEEKS when I was growing up; in fact, I never ate them. It took living in France for me to fall for them. The Leek Quiche recipe (here) was not only the first thing I learned in cooking school in Paris; it was also part of my final “exam.” I had to make it under the close scrutiny of the chefs. So you’d better believe I take leeks seriously.

Leeks are the mildest of the indispensable onion family, less pungent than garlic and shallots, richer and more discreet when cooked. We do not eat them raw, but they soften quickly, and as they warm, their deliciousness is revealed. Minced leeks add flavor as a base in so many recipes. I celebrate whole leeks, too, braised with vinaigrette. They taste mellow tossed with quinoa, or just grilled, sliced in half, and salted. Leeks grow very large in deep, dark soil, and that sturdiness allows them to winter over. Leeks are easy to use. Make sure to wash them thoroughly (soil lodges in their tight layers).