ONIONS

ONIONS’ NATURAL sugars caramelize when heated, and this is the source of their magic. I use different kinds of onions depending on the time of year. In the early spring, I look for the first green shoots that resemble scallions and can be eaten raw. Later, the small young bulbs with their green stems appear, and these can be lightly glazed and eaten whole with their tops attached. The bulbs of summer onions grow big and sweet as their green tops wilt; these are great for grilling. By fall and winter, I use onions that are cured, removing their papery skin.