SERVES 10
I HAVE A FOND MEMORY of making onion soup in a village near Lyon. At a French wedding it’s traditional to serve onion soup late, very late, after all the festivities, to help folks make it through the long night. When I stumbled upon a group of women making the soup, I watched for a while and then I politely added my two centimes. Why, I asked, had they not added a pinch of flour to the caramelized onions? Of course, this comment from an American didn’t go over well, and after some heated discussion, I ended up wearing the flour! In the end, I put a little flour in the onions, and everyone loved the soup. But I didn’t realize how much until I returned a few years later for another wedding. This time they asked me to make the soup.
One of the keys to great onion soup (aside from that flour) is a flavorful broth. I use beef in this recipe, but sometimes I use Mushroom Broth (here) for a lighter, more aromatic version.
2 tablespoons olive oil
¾ pound beef chuck, cubed
5 tablespoons butter
3 pounds onions, halved and thinly sliced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon sugar
5 tablespoons white wine vinegar
5 tablespoons Cognac or brandy
1½ cups Champagne or white wine
2 tablespoons flour
5 cups beef broth
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
Salt and pepper
10 thin slices baguette, cut on the diagonal
1 clove garlic, halved
1½ cups grated Parmigiano or Gruyère
Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the beef, turning the heat down after a couple minutes, and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to high, add 4 tablespoons of the butter and half the onions, and stir. When the onions begin to wilt and the pan begins to sizzle again, it’s time to add the rest of the onions. Much of the cooking of the soup can go unattended, but right now you have to be involved and stay close.
Add the garlic and cook over high heat, stirring often and scraping the edges of the pot. After 5 minutes more, stir in the sugar to help the onions caramelize. Continue to cook until the onions are soft and caramelized, about 10 minutes more. Add 4 tablespoons of the vinegar and cook, stirring often, until evaporated. Add 4 tablespoons of the Cognac and cook, stirring often, until evaporated. Add the Champagne and cook until nearly dry. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter and then the flour. Add the broth, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper and simmer for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the croutons. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put the baguette slices on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Rub one side with the cut garlic, then top with the cheese and broil until it’s melted and brown. Remove the beef from the soup, then stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon each vinegar and Cognac and check seasonings. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with a crouton.