POTATO PANCAKE

SERVES 4 TO 6

I ENCOUNTERED THIS CLASSIC of French cooking called pommes Darphin in the kitchen at March restaurant in Manhattan, where it was perfected; the cooks there made it every day. This pancake does require a bit of practice to get it right. But man, is it worth it! The more you practice, the better you’ll get. Try doing it without the onion filling at first to get a sense of how the potatoes brown on the outside and cook on the inside. The thinner the pancake, the easier it is to handle, so as you practice, start small.

6 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, quartered and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt

2½ pounds potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or russet, peeled and cut into matchsticks

Pepper

Handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and caramelize (here). Take your time. This is where the special flavor is born! Add the vinegar and cook until it’s evaporated. Add salt, then set the caramelized onions aside.

Combine the potatoes and a tablespoon of the oil in a large bowl, and add salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the potatoes into a strainer, then spread half evenly into the bottom of the skillet.

Pile the caramelized onions on the center of the potatoes and sprinkle with the parsley. Spread the remaining potatoes on top, covering the onion mixture completely. Cook until the potatoes on the bottom are well browned and crispy, about 5 minutes. Pop the skillet into the oven and roast until the bottom becomes a sturdy crust, about 8 minutes.

Remove the skillet from the oven, run a spatula under the pancake all around, then flatten the top a bit into an even layer. Continue to bake until the pancake holds together, about 10 minutes more. Remove the skillet from the oven and, with a spatula and a little shake of the pan, confirm that the pancake is detached and not sticking. Here comes the fun part. Cover the skillet with a large inverted plate, then flip the pancake onto the plate.

Slide the pancake back into the skillet, browned side up, then smooth the sides of the pancake with the spatula to form a compact, round shape. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat, return to the oven, and bake until the potatoes are tender and browned on the bottom, about another 10 minutes. This crispy pancake is irresistible, so serve it right away.