GRANMAW HARTLE’S POTATO DUMPLINGS

SERVES 4

I WAS VERY EXCITED TO UPDATE this standard of the supper table that my mother grew up eating in her German parents’ kitchen, a recipe that came from their family in Indiana and Ohio. Turns out that this recipe, known as “pot pie,” was a cornerstone of Pennsylvania Dutch cooking. As in the kitchens of all working-class families, the dumplings were simplified over the years to match families’ limited time and budgets. My grandfather worked on a railroad; my grandmother ran a school cafeteria.

For me, the most interesting part of this recipe is not the culinary complexity—in my childhood I considered these dumplings literally cooked starch—but I love the idea of using the emotions of home cooking as a starting point for soulful dishes. So, when I began to experiment with the dumplings, I didn’t look to my technical background to remake this recipe; instead, I started with the love that my mother has for this recipe, then I lightened the dumplings with vegetables and simmering broth. Now these dumplings are more than comfort food; they remind us that there’s nothing more contemporary than being inspired by the soulfulness of the past.

¾ pound unpeeled Yukon Gold potatoes

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

5 cups chicken broth

2 carrots, diced

1 stalk salsify, peeled and diced

1 leek (white and pale green parts), halved and thickly sliced

1 boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into large dice

½ cup flour, plus more for rolling

½ teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons grated Gruyère

1 egg, whisked

Small handful roughly chopped fresh dill

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly coat the potatoes with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then wrap them in aluminum foil. Bake until tender, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the carrots, salsify, salt, and pepper and simmer until just tender, about 10 minutes. Add the leeks, simmer for a couple minutes, then add the chicken and poach until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove the chicken from the broth, and set aside.

Peel the baked potatoes, then pass them through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl. Add the flour, baking powder, cheese, egg, salt, and pepper and stir to combine. If the mixture is too dry to form a dough, add a couple drops of water. Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for a minute or two, then roll out and fold it onto itself a couple of times to give it a little body. Roll out the dough to a rectangle about ¼ inch thick and cut into rough squares.

Return the broth to a brisk simmer, add the dumplings, and cook until they float, about 3 minutes. Add the poached chicken back to the pan and add the dill, salt, and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls.