RUTABAGA

HOW TO MAKE rutabaga taste good? We do not often dream about this vegetable, saying, “Ummmm, I can’t wait to sink my teeth into that yellow turnip that’s been in the ground all winter!” This hardy vegetable, able to survive the most punishingly cold weather, first became popular, not surprisingly, in Northern Europe. Hence its vernacular nickname, Swede. For me, the secret to bringing out the hidden value of this rough-looking vegetable is to add the richness of butter and the sweetness of fruit. Both will make a virtue of the bitter, turnip-y quality of cooked rutabaga. The Rutabaga Gratin (here) relies on dates to fill the fruit requirement, but think about using dried figs, cherries, or cranberries to play the same role. Or make a puree of the cooked rutabaga with baked apples, quince, or pears, just a touch of brown butter, and a speck of vanilla bean. Choose the smallest rutabaga in the market, as they’re never waxed and often the best tasting.