SALSIFY

A VERY LONG dark-skinned root that grows deep in the soil and has the ability to pull out amazing mineral content, salsify is not easy to harvest, but it is surprisingly abundant in wintertime. The leafy tops are chicory-like and edible, but it is much more satisfying to peel off its dark skin to reveal a perfectly white interior. Once peeled, the root oxidizes quickly, so keep it in lemon water to prevent it from turning brown. Similar in color to a parsnip, salsify’s flavor is not as sweet. When cooked with a drop of lemon juice, salsify softens beautifully, like a carrot. In vegetable braises, it enhances the flavor of its supporting characters in a way that is hard to describe. Salsify somehow makes each component of a dish taste better. I’ve never found it to taste like oysters, as reputed, but I’m convinced eating salsify brings with it some kind of ancient wisdom.