STEAMED CLAMS WITH SCALLION & TARRAGON SAUCE

SERVES 4

THIS IS A STRAIGHTFORWARD and classic way to prepare shellfish, but I chose it specifically to illustrate the whole scallion. The flavor of scallions is so light, its subtlety lets the brininess of the clams shine through the broth, mellowing the acidity from the wine. I use scallion greens as an herb, in the same way as tarragon.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 bunches scallions, chopped, greens from 1 bunch thinly sliced and reserved

1 cup dry white wine

Leaves from 1 sprig tarragon, 5 leaves reserved

Pinch fennel seeds

3 pounds littleneck clams

2 tablespoons butter

Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the chopped scallions and cook for about 2 minutes, then add the wine, tarragon, fennel seeds, and clams. Cover the pot and steam, shaking the pot occasionally to help the clams pop open. After about 6 minutes, the clams will start to open; transfer to a large bowl. Discard any clams that do not open.

When the clams are steamed, remove the meat from the shells. Strain the liquid from the clams and any remaining in the pot into a small saucepan, bring to a simmer, and reduce slightly. Turn off the heat and add the butter and the reserved thinly sliced scallion greens and tarragon leaves. Put the clams in small bowls and pour the sauce over them.