SERVES 4
MY INSPIRATION was a brilliant creation of chef Wayne Nish’s that he served at his late restaurant March in Manhattan, where I cooked in the ’90s. Here, I treat the fleshy, silky quality of thinly sliced ripe tomatoes the way he used paper-thin slices of fatty hamachi.
Choose the ripest garden tomatoes you can find; different colors enhance the magic. The tomatoes add a nuanced umami quality in combination with the salty, smoky white soy sauce (or shiro dashi), and the olive oil brings a luscious mouthfeel. Sometimes simple ingredients produce complex results.
2 large tomatoes, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons white soy sauce or shiro dashi
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
Sea salt