TOMATO SASHIMI

SERVES 4

MY INSPIRATION was a brilliant creation of chef Wayne Nish’s that he served at his late restaurant March in Manhattan, where I cooked in the ’90s. Here, I treat the fleshy, silky quality of thinly sliced ripe tomatoes the way he used paper-thin slices of fatty hamachi.

Choose the ripest garden tomatoes you can find; different colors enhance the magic. The tomatoes add a nuanced umami quality in combination with the salty, smoky white soy sauce (or shiro dashi), and the olive oil brings a luscious mouthfeel. Sometimes simple ingredients produce complex results.

2 large tomatoes, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons white soy sauce or shiro dashi

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

Sea salt

Overlap the tomato slices on a platter. Drizzle with the oil and drops of white soy sauce or shiro dashi, then sprinkle with the sesame seeds and sea salt.

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