UPLAND CRESS

THIS ANCIENT PLANT and its many cress cousins have been known forever to provide exceptional nutritive and restorative qualities. I like the sturdy, round leaves of upland cress for their versatility—used raw or cooked like spinach and kale—but especially for the peppery flavor cress brings to composed salads. Upland cress is grown in soil as well as hydroponically; often you see it with its roots attached. That way, it doesn’t fade as quickly as cut lettuce, and you can use it a leaf at a time. Rather than sprinkle fading parsley or limp chives over a dish, why not scatter something more meaningful and powerful? Upland cress delivers brightness and bite.