OLIVE OIL–POACHED SQUID

SERVES 2

HERE’S AN INTERESTING WAY to think about cooking with olive oil—not to sauté vegetables in a skillet, but to use lots of oil to gently cook the squid at a low temperature. Lightly scoring the outside of the squid bodies in a crosshatch pattern is the secret to those delicate little rolls, such a pleasure to eat. Buy American squid, locally caught and, when possible, fresh not frozen. Delicate fish fillets such as halibut, and the firmer swordfish and albacore, are wonderful cooked this way, too.

2 cups olive oil

1 zucchini, seeded and cut into matchsticks

1 garlic scape, sliced, or 1 clove garlic, halved

1 young garlic or onion bulb

Pinch coriander seeds

1 pound squid bodies, cleaned, scored, and cut into rectangles

Fresh lemon juice

Sea salt

Warm the oil in a medium saucepan over low heat until just a few small bubbles appear, about 225°F, then add the zucchini, garlic scape or garlic clove, young garlic or onion bulb, and coriander seeds. Heat for 5 minutes, then add the squid and cook just until the squid curls. Remove the pan from the heat and let sit for about 5 minutes.

Lift the solids from the pan with a slotted spoon, then serve the squid and vegetables sprinkled with lemon juice and sea salt.