emily’s blue dress

Enjoy meditative knitting on this minimally shaped, ruffled, blue jean button-down dress. Textured little capped sleeves top off the summer feel. Try each ruffle in a different color to make it your own! Seed stitch borders can be pressed flat or left turned up for added texture as shown in the photos.

SIZES

Girls 6 (7, 8, 10, 12): Young Juniors 5/6 (7/8, 9/10, 11/12)

Instructions are written for size 6; all other sizes are in parentheses. Girls’ and young junior sizes are separated with a colon. For ease in knitting, circle your size before beginning.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 24 (25, 26, 28, 30): 26 (28, 30, 32) in. / 61 (63.5, 66, 71, 76): 66 (71, 76, 81.5) cm

Waist: 21 (22, 23, 24, 25): 22 (24, 25, 26) in. / 53.5 (56, 58.5, 61, 63.5): 56 (61, 63.5, 66) cm

Skirt length from dropped waist: 11 (12, 12½, 12½, 13): 12½ (13, 14, 14½) in. / 28 (30.5, 32, 32, 33): 32 (33, 35.5, 37) cm

YARN

Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fine; 50 g each approx. 222 yd / 203 m; 80% cotton, 20% merino wool

• 6 (6, 7, 7, 8): 6 (7, 8, 8) skeins #CF760 Emperor’s Robe

MATERIALS

• Size US 3 / 3.25 mm 24 in. / 61 cm or longer circular needle (or size to obtain gauge)

• Tapestry needle (sharp yarn darner works best for tucking cotton ends)

• Waste yarn

• Extra needles for holding ruffles (smaller size okay)

• Ring-type marker

• 12 5⁄ 8 in. / 1.5 cm buttons

chpt_fig_018

GAUGE

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 in. / 10 cm in St st

STITCH GUIDE

Moss Stitch

Row 1: [K1, p1] repeat across.

Row 2: Knit the purls and purl the knits.

PATTERN NOTES

• Fronts and back are knitted separately for strength and stability at the side seams.

• Cap sleeves are picked up and knitted flat from the shoulders down.

SKIRT BACK

chpt_fig_019

First Ruffle

Cast on 182 (187, 197, 202, 214): 190 (197, 202, 214) sts.

Work 3 rows for border in Moss st as follows:

Row 1: [K1, p1] repeat across (on some sizes there will be 1 st rem; knit last st).

Row 2: Knit the purls and purl the knits.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

Change to St st and work until piece from beginning measures 4½ (4½, 5, 5, 5): 5½ (5½, 6, 6) in. / 11.5, 11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5): 14 (14, 15, 15) cm, end having completed a WS row.

Next row (RS): Work decrease row for your size as follows:

Girls 6: [K3, k2tog] 36 times, k2tog [145 sts rem].

Girls 7: [K3, k2tog] 37 times, k2tog [149 sts rem].

Girls 8: [K3, k2tog] 39 times, k2tog [157 sts rem].

Girls 10: [K3, k2tog] 40 times, k2 [162 sts rem].

Girls 12: K9, [K3, k2tog] 39 times, k10 [175 sts rem].

Young jrs. 5/6: [K3, k2tog] 38 times [152 sts rem].

Young jrs. 7/8: [K3, k2tog] 39 times, k2tog [157 sts rem].

Young jrs. 9/10: [K3, k2tog] 40 times, k2 [162 sts rem].

Young jrs. 11/12: K9, [K3, k2tog] 39 times, k10 [175 sts rem].

Work even in St st for 3½ (3½, 4, 4½, 5): 4 (4½, 5, 5) in. / 9 (9, 10, 11.5, 12.5): 10 (11.5, 12.5, 12.5) cm (not including ruffle).

Cut yarn and place sts on a spare needle.

Second Ruffle

Cast on 146 (150, 158, 162, 175): 152 (158, 162, 175) sts.

Work 3 rows in Moss st.

Change to St st and work for 4 (4, 4½, 5, 5½): 4½ (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 10 (10, 11.5, 12.5, 14): 11.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm. End having completed a WS row.

Next row (RS): Place ruffle right side up on top of stockinette section of first piece and knit together one st from each needle across (ruffle joined).

Next row (WS): Work decrease row for your size as follows:

Girls 6: [P2, p2tog] 36 times, p2 [110 sts rem].

Girls 7: [P2, p2tog] 37 times, p2tog [112 sts rem].

Girls 8: [P2, p2tog] 39 times, p2tog [118 sts rem].

Girls 10: [P2, p2tog] 40 times, p2 [122 sts rem].

Girls 12: P9, [p2, p2tog] 39 times, p10 [136 sts rem].

Young jrs. 5/6: [P2, p2tog] 38 times [114 sts rem].

Young jrs. 7/8: [P2, p2tog] 39 times, p2tog [118 sts rem].

Young jrs. 9/10: [P2, p2tog] 40 times, p2 [122 sts rem].

Young jrs. 11/12: P9, [p2, p2tog] 39 times, p10 [136 sts rem].

Change to St st and work for 3 (3, 3, 3, 3): 3 (3, 3, 3½) in. / 7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5): 7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9) cm from this decrease. End having completed a WS row.

Place sts on a spare needle. Cut yarn.

Third Ruffle

Cast on 110 (112, 118, 122, 136): 114 (118, 122, 136) sts.

Work 3 rows in Moss st.

Change to St st and work for 3½ (3½, 3½, 3½, 3½): 3½ (3½, 3½, 4) in. / 9 (9, 9, 9, 9): 9 (9, 9, 10) cm. End having completed a WS row.

Next row (RS): Place ruffle right side up on top of stockinette section of last piece and knit together one st from each needle across (all ruffles joined).

Next row (WS): Work decrease row for your size as follows:

Girls 6: [P1, p2tog, p2tog] 22 times [66 sts rem].

Girls 7: [P1, p2tog] 37 times, p1 [75 sts rem].

Girls 8: [P1, p2tog] 39 times, p1 [79 sts rem].

Girls 10: [P1, p2tog] 40 times, p2 [82 sts rem].

Girls 12: P2, [p1, p2tog] 44 times, p2 [92 sts rem].

Young jrs. 5/6: P4, [p2, p3tog] 21 times, p5 [72 sts rem].

Young jrs. 7/8: [P1, p2tog] 39 times, p1 [79 sts rem].

Young jrs. 9/10: [P1, p2tog] 40 times, p2 [82 sts rem].

Young jrs. 11/12: P2, [p1, p2tog] 44 times, p2 [92 sts rem].

Next row: Knit, decreasing with a k2tog 0 (1, 1, 0, 0): 0 (1, 0, 0) sts [66 (74, 78, 82, 92): 72 (78, 82, 92) sts rem]*.

Waistband

Work in Moss St for 1 (1, 1, 1, 1½): 1 (1½, 1½ 1½) in. / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 4): (2.5, 4, 4, 4) cm.

Change to St st and begin increases as follows:

Increase row on RS: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1.

Increase row on WS: P1, M1, purl to last st, M1, p1.

Work increase row every 7th (10th, 11th, 9th, 12th): 8th (8th, 8th, 11th) row 5 (4, 4, 5, 4): 6 (6, 7, 5) times to 76 (82, 86, 92, 100): 84 (90, 96, 102) sts.

Work even if necessary until back measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½): 7½ (7½, 8½, 9) in. / 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 19): 19 (19, 21.5, 23) cm from beginning of Moss St (or desired length to underarm). End having completed a WS row.

Armhole Shaping

Bind off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Place a pin-type marker somewhere in the middle of the first bind-off row for ease in measuring armhole depth.

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row: Purl across.

chpt_fig_020

Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more [50 (56, 60, 66, 74): 58 (64, 70, 76) sts rem].

Continue with no further decreases until armhole from beginning (here’s where the marker comes in handy) measures 4 (4½, 4½, 5, 5): 4½ (4½, 5, 5) in. / 10 (11.5, 11.5, 12.5, 12.5): 11.5 (11.5, 12.5, 12.5) cm. End having completed a WS row.

Back Neck Shaping

Next row (RS): Work across 38 (44, 46, 50, 56): 44 (48, 52, 56) sts, then place last 26 (32, 32, 34, 38): 30 (32, 34, 36) sts just worked on a holder or waste yarn for back neck and continue across rem 12 (12, 14, 16, 18): 14 (16, 18, 20) sts for right shoulder.

Next row (WS): Purl across shoulder sts.

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end.

Next row: Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows once more [10 (10, 12, 14, 16): 12 (14, 16, 18) sts rem].

Work even if necessary until total armhole length is 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5½): 5 (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 14): 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm.

Place sts on a holder or waste yarn.

Left Shoulder Shaping

Join yarn at neck edge on WS and purl one row.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows once more [10 (10, 12, 14, 16): 12 (14, 16, 18) sts rem].

Work even if necessary until total armhole length is 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5½): 5 (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 14): 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm.

Place sts on a holder or waste yarn.

SKIRT FRONT

Work same as for back to * (after third ruffle) [66 (74, 78, 82, 92): 72 (78, 82, 92) sts].

Divide for Fronts
RIGHT FRONT

Next row (WS): Work in Moss st across 30 (34, 36, 38, 43): 33 (36, 38, 43) sts, bind off 6 sts and continue in Moss st across rem sts. Turn and work on right front only as follows (place sts from other side on waste yarn and hold for later).

Next row (RS): Work Moss st until band measures same as for back, or 1 (1, 1, 1, 1½): 1 (1½, 1½ 1½) in. / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 4): 2.5 (4, 4, 4) cm.

Change to St st and begin increases for right front:

Increase row on RS: Knit to last st, M1, k1.

Increase row on WS: P1, M1, purl to end.

Work increase row every 7th (10th, 10th, 9th, 11th): 8th (8th, 8th, 10th) row 6 (5, 5, 6, 5): 7 (7, 8, 7) times to 36 (39, 41, 44, 48): 40 (43, 46, 50) sts.

Work even if necessary until front measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½): 7½ (7½, 8½, 9) in. / 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 19): 19 (19, 21.5, 23) cm from end of Moss st (or desired length to underarm). End having completed a RS row.

Armhole Shaping

Next row (WS): Bind off 6 sts at the beginning of the row.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row: Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more [23 (26, 28, 31, 35): 27 (30, 33, 37) sts rem].

Work even, if necessary until armole measures 2½ (3, 3, 3½, 3½): 3 (3, 3½, 3½) in. / 6.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9, 9): 7.5 (7.5, 9, 9) cm. End having completed a WS row.

Neck Shaping

Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 5, 6, 7): 4 (5, 6, 7) sts and continue across row.

Next row: Purl to last 3 sts, p2tog-tbl, p1.

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end.

Repeat last 2 rows until 10 (10, 12, 14, 16): 12 (14, 16, 18) sts rem.

Work even until total armhole length is 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5½): 5 (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 14): 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm.

Place sts on a holder or waste yarn.

chpt_fig_021

chpt_fig_022

LEFT FRONT

Place sts from waste yarn on needle, join new yarn from side edge and work Moss st until band measures same as for right front, or 1 (1, 1, 1, 1½): 1 (1½, 1½ 1½) in. / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 4): 2.5 (4, 4, 4) cm.

Change to St st and begin increases:

Increase row on RS: K1, M1, knit to end.

Increase row on WS: Purl to last st, M1, p1.

Work increase row every 7th (10th, 10th, 9th, 11th): 8th (8th, 8th, 10th) row 6 (5, 5, 6, 5): 7 (7, 8, 7) times to 36 (39, 41, 44, 48): 40 (43, 46, 50) sts.

Work even if necessary until front measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½): 7½ (7½, 8½, 9) in. / 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 19): 19 (19, 21.5, 23) cm from end of Moss st (or desired length to underarm). End having completed a RS row.

Armhole Shaping

Next row (WS): Bind off 6 sts at the beginning of the row.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row: Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 6 times more [23 (26, 28, 31, 35): 27 (30, 33, 37) sts rem].

Work even if necessary until armole measures 2½ (3, 3, 3½, 3½): 3 (3, 3½, 3½) in. / 6.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9, 9): 7.5 (7.5, 9, 9) cm. End having completed a RS row.

Neck Shaping

Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 5, 6, 7): 4 (5, 6, 7) sts and continue across row.

Next row: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row (WS): P1, p2tog, purl to end.

Repeat last 2 rows until 10 (10, 12, 14, 16): 12 (14, 16, 18) sts rem.

Work even until total armhole length is 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5½): 5 (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 14): 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm.

Use the three-needle bind-off to connect fronts to back at the shoulders from the WS.

BUTTON BAND

Begin at center front neck edge from the right side and pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows to bind-off at waist. Count your sts and keep a note; you’ll want to pick up the same amount on the other side.

Turn and work in Moss st for 7 rows.

Bind off on RS in pattern.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Begin after bind-off at waist edge from right side and pick up 2 sts out of every 3 rows to neck edge, or same amount of sts as other side.

Begin on WS and work 3 rows in Moss st.

Now is the time to determine how many buttons you want and where you would like to put them. Hang pin-type markers on the needle, one a few sts from the neck edge and another a few sts from the waist-band, and the rest as evenly spaced as you can. Next, count the sts and adjust the markers so there is the same number of sts between them. It’s okay if you’re off by one st here and there. These markers will place your buttonholes.

Continue as follows:

Next row (RS): Maintaining Moss st pattern throughout row, work to first marker, *YO, remove marker and work 2 sts together, work to next marker and repeat from *. Continue making buttonholes in this manner to end of row.

Next row (WS): Work in Moss st, knitting or purling into the long side of the yarn overs (you want to make a hole here) across row.

Work 2 more rows in Moss st and bind off in pattern on RS.

SLEEVES

From the right side, pick up and knit 3 out of 4 sts around armhole edge.

Next row (WS): Work in Moss st to last 6 sts, w&t.

Next row (RS): Work to last 6 sts, w&t.

Next row (WS): Work in Moss st to last 10 sts, w&t.

Next row (RS): Work to last 10 sts, w&t.

Next row (WS): Work in Moss st to last 12 sts, w&t.

Next row (RS): Work to last 12 sts, w&t.

Continue as established, working 2 less sts each row until sleeve cap at shoulders measures 2 in. / 5 cm or desired length.

COLLAR

From center front (not including buttonbands), pick up and knit 2 out of 3 sts around, knit all sts from holder at back neck, knit 2 out of 3 to other front.

Work 3½–4 in. / 9–10 cm in Moss st.

Bind off in pattern.

chpt_fig_023

FINISHING

Stitch side and sleeve seams with mattress stitch from the right side.

Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

Turn work inside out and stitch buttonband down at front, leaving several buttons free to open at neck edge as desired.

Weave in all ends and steam lightly or block according to directions on ball band.