Worked entirely in twisted rib, this is not a quick knit, but the addition of intarsia panels gives you something to keep you going. Easy construction with decorative buttons makes this one as much fun to wear as it is to knit.
Girls 6 (7, 8, 10, 12); Young Juniors 5/6 (7/8, 9/10, 11/12)
Instructions are written for size 6; all other sizes follow. Girls’ and young junior sizes are separated with a colon. For ease in knitting, circle your size before beginning.
Chest: 24 (25, 26, 28, 30): 26 (28, 30, 31) in. / 61 (63.5, 66, 71, 76): 66 (71, 76, 78.5) cm
Waist/midriff: 22½ (23½, 24½, 25½, 26½): 23½ (25½, 26½, 27½) in. / 57 (59.5, 62, 65, 67.5): 59.5 (65, 67.5, 70) cm
Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash; 3.5 oz. / 100 g each approx. 220 yd. / 200 m; 100% superwash wool
• 5 (5, 6, 6, 7): 5 (6, 6, 7) skeins #1946 Dolphin (Gray)
Ella Rae Cozy Soft; 3.5 oz. / 100 g each approx. 213 yd. / 195 m; 25% superwash wool, 75% acrylic
• 1 skein #27 Medium Mint (Green)
• 1 skein #11 Bright Blue (Blue)
• 1 skein #13 Lavender (Purple)
• 1 skein #39 Bubble Gum Pink (Pink)
• 1 skein #30 Pink Coral (Dark Pink)
• 1 skein #25 Tangerine (Orange)
• 1 skein #26 Sunflower (Yellow)
• Size US 6 / 4 mm 36–40 in. / 91.5–101.5 cm long circular needles (or size to obtain gauge)
• Size US 6 / 4 mm 16 in. / 40.5 cm circular needles
• Size US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles (or any preferred needles for knitting in the round)
• Tapestry needle
• Waste yarn
• Decorative buttons, optional
30 sts and 30 rows to 4 in. / 10 cm in double twisted rib
Note: Although worked in worsted weight yarn and size 6 needles, this produces a lovely corded rib at 7½ sts per inch.
Double Twisted Rib. Work through the back loop of every stitch on every row.
• The dress is worked flat in one piece. Sleeves are picked up at the shoulders and worked in the round.
• The colorwork is worked in intarsia. Use a separate ball (or length) of yarn for each section, and twist colors to prevent holes.
• Selvage stitches at each end are worked in plain St st and will be used to sew up seam at back of dress.
With Gray, cast on 506 (513, 520, 527, 534): 513 (527, 534, 541) sts. (For ease in counting, place a marker every 50 sts while casting on).
Note: All sts except the first and last selvage stitch are worked in Double Twisted Rib (work each stitch through the back loop).
Row 1 (WS): P1 (for selvage), work [p1b, k1b] Double Twisted Rib across to last st, p1.
Row 2 (RS): K1, work Double Twisted Rib (knit the knits, purl the purls, all through the back loop) across to last st, k1.
Work Row 1 again.
Begin intarsia:
(RS): With Gray, k1,work rib for 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts more, join Green and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Blue and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Purple and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Pink and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Dark Pink and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Orange and work 49 sts, join Gray and work 23 (24, 25, 26, 27): 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, join Yellow and work next 49 sts, with Yellow k1 selvage st.
Next row (WS): P1 Yellow (for selvage), continue as established, working rib for all sts, grays over grays and colors over colors.
Note: Decreases are made at edges of 7 color bars only; Gray sts rem the same count throughout.
To work decreases on RS: K1 (selvage), *work across Gray as established, then with color work ssk, work to last 2 sts of color, k2tog; repeat from * across, k1 (selvage).
To work decreases on WS: P1 (selvage), *p2tog, work to last 2 sts of color, p2tog-tbl, work across Gray as established; repeat from * across, p1 (selvage).
Work decreases into edges of color bars (not Gray) every 5th (5th, 6th, 6th, 6th): 5th (6th, 6th, 7th) row 23 times (3 colored sts rem in each color bar section).
Work a further 5 (5, 6, 6, 6): 5 (6, 6, 7) rows as established, then decrease as follows:
If decrease row is on RS: K1 (selvage), *work Gray as established, then insert needle as if to knit through first two sts and slip off together to working needle, knit next st, pass both slipped sts over (1 color st rem); repeat from * to last st, k1 Yellow.
If decrease row is on WS: P1 Yellow, *slip next 2 sts through the back loop to working needle, purl next st, then pass the 2 slipped sts over (1 color st rem), work Gray as established; repeat from * across to last st, p1 (selvage) [170 (177, 184, 191, 198): 177 (191, 198, 205) sts rem]. Skirt should measure approx. 17 (17, 20, 20, 20): 17 (20, 20, 23) in. / 43 (43, 51, 51, 51): 43 (51, 51, 58.5) cm.
Intarsia is complete!
Working with Gray only and keeping first and last st in stockinette for selvage, work in Double Twisted Rib for 3 (3, 3, 3, 5): 3 (5, 5, 5) rows. On any row, place markers as follows to mark sides: Work 42 (44, 46, 48, 49): 44 (48, 49, 51) sts, place marker, work 86 (89, 92, 95, 100): 89 (96, 100, 103) sts for front, place marker, work across rem 42 (44, 46, 48, 49): 44 (48, 49, 51) sts.
Increase row: Work one selvage st, work Double Twisted Rib to within one st of first marker, keeping rib pattern correct *knit and then purl (or purl and then knit) into the front and back of next st, SM, purl and then knit (or knit and then purl) into the front and back of next st*, work Double Twisted Rib to next marker, repeat from * to * once more, work in Double Twisted Rib to last st, work 1 selvage st.
Work increase row every 5th (5th, 6th, 6th, 6th): 5th (5th, 5th, 6th) row 6 times total to 48 (50, 52, 54, 55): 50 (54, 55, 57) sts for each back section and 98 (101, 104, 107, 112): 101 (107, 112, 115) sts for front.
Work even if necessary until bodice from end of color bars measures 3 (3½, 4, 4½, 5): 3½ (4, 4½, 5) in. / 7.5 (9, 10, 11.5, 12.5): 9 (10, 11.5, 12.5) cm, or desired length to armhole. End having completed a WS row.
Divide for front and backs:
(RS): Keeping selvage sts in stockinette at each end, work Double Twisted Rib to within 6 sts of first marker, bind off 12 sts in pattern (remove marker), work to within 6 sts of next marker, bind off 12 sts in pattern and complete row.
Place front sts and left back sts on a holder or waste yarn.
Next row (WS): P1, work in Double Twisted Rib as established to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Next row (RS): K1, work across as established to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more [39 (41, 43, 45, 46): 41 (45, 46, 48) sts rem].
Work even as established until armhole from bind off measures 4½ (4½, 5, 5, 5½): 4½ (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 14): 11.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm. End having completed a RS row.
(WS): Work across 12 (13, 14, 15, 14): 12 (15, 14, 15) sts and place on a holder or waste yarn and continue across row.
Next row (RS): K1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): P1, work across to last st, p1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more [24 (25, 26, 27, 29): 26 (27, 29, 30) sts rem].
Work one RS row without decreases.
Next row (WS): Work across 17 (18, 19, 20, 22): 19 (20, 22, 23) sts, w&t, work back on RS.
Next row (WS): Work across 10 (11, 12, 13, 15): 12 (13, 15, 16) sts, w&t, work back on RS.
Work one more row, picking up wraps across. Place sts on a holder or waste yarn.
Note: To pick up wrap on a knit st, insert needle into wrap first, then st on needle and knit the two together. To pick up a wrap on a purl st, pick up the wrap from behind and place it on the left needle, then purl the two sts together. Wraps will disappear into the work.
Place 42 (44, 46, 48, 49): 44 (48, 49, 51) back sts on a needle.
Join new yarn on right side and begin with next row:
Next row (RS): K1, work across in Double Twisted Rib as established to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): P1, work across in Double Twisted Rib to last st, p1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more [39 (41, 43, 45, 46): 41 (45, 46, 48) sts rem].
Work even as established until armhole from bind-off measures 4½ (4½, 5, 5, 5½): 4½ (5, 5½, 5½) in. / 11.5 (11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 14): 11.5 (12.5, 14, 14) cm. End having completed a WS row.
(RS): Work across 12 (13, 14, 15, 14): 12 (15, 14, 15) sts and place on a holder or waste yarn and continue across row.
Next row (WS): P1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last 3 sts, p2tog-tbl, p1.
Next row (RS): K1, work across to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more [24 (25, 26, 27, 29): 26 (27, 29, 30) sts rem].
Work one WS row with no decreases.
Next row (RS): Work across 17 (18, 19, 20, 22): 19 (20, 22, 23) sts, w&t, work back on WS.
Next row (RS): Work across 10 (11, 12, 13, 15): 12 (13, 15, 16) sts, w&t, work back on WS.
Work one more row, picking up wraps across. Place sts on a holder or waste yarn.
Place 86 (89, 86, 92, 95): 89 (95, 100, 103) front sts on needle. Join new yarn on RS.
(RS): K1, ssk, work in Double Twisted Rib as established to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
(WS): P1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last st, p1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more to 80 (83, 86, 89, 96): 83 (89, 94, 97) sts.
Work even as established until armholes measure 3 (3, 3½, 3½, 4): 3 (3½, 3½, 4) in. / 7.5 (7.5, 9, 9, 10): 7.5 (9, 9, 10) cm from bind off. End having completed a WS row.
(RS): Work across 53 (55, 57, 59, 64): 54 (59, 62, 64) sts. Place last 26 (27, 28, 29, 32): 25 (29, 30, 31) sts just worked to a holder or waste yarn for center front neck and continue across row.
Next row (WS): P1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last 3 sts, p2tog-tbl, p1.
Next row (RS): K1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more.
Work even on rem 24 (25, 26, 27, 29): 26 (27, 29, 30) sts until armhole measures 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 6): 5 (5½, 6, 6) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 15): 12.5 (14, 15, 15) cm, or same as for back. End having completed a WS row.
Next row (RS): Work across 17 (18, 19, 20, 22): 19 (20, 22, 23) sts, w&t, work back on WS.
Next row (RS): Work across 10 (11, 12, 13, 15): 12 (13, 15, 16) sts, w&t, work back on WS.
Work one more row across all sts, picking up wraps, and place on a holder or waste yarn.
Join new yarn at right front from the wrong side and work neck shaping as follows:
(WS): P1, p2tog, work in Double Twisted Rib to last st, p1.
(RS): K1, work in Double Twisted Rib to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more.
Work even on rem 24 (25, 26, 27, 29): 26 (27, 29, 30) sts until armhole measures 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 6): 5 (5½, 6, 6) in. / 11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14, 15): 12.5 (14, 15, 15) cm. End having completed a RS row.
Next row (WS): Work across 17 (18, 19, 20, 22): 19 (20, 22, 23) sts, w&t, work back on RS.
Next row (WS): Work across 10 (11, 12, 13, 15): 12 (13, 15, 16) sts, w&t, work back on RS.
Work one more row across all sts, picking up wraps.
Use the three-needle bind-off to connect shoulders together from the WS.
Stitch back seam together.
Begin at center of underam and pick up and knit 86 (86, 92, 92, 100): 86 (92, 100, 100) sts. Place a marker for beginning of round and work as follows:
K1, work Double Twisted Rib to last st, k1.
Work 1 rnd as established.
Decrease round: K1, ssk, work in Double Twisted Rib to within 3 sts of marker, k2tog, k1.
Work a decrease rnd every 6th (7th, 7th, 8th, 8th): 6th (8th, 8th, 8th) rnd 15 (13, 14, 13, 15): 15 (13, 15, 15) times total to 56 (60, 64, 66, 70): 56 (66, 70, 70) sts.
Work even if necessary until sleeve from armhole measures 12 (13, 14, 15½, 16½): 13½ (15½, 16½, 17½) in. / 30.5 (33, 35.5, 39.5, 42): 34.5 (39.5, 42, 44.5) cm, or desired length of sleeve. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Begin at right back shoulder and pick up and knit stitch for stitch around neckline, working 2 sts together at back seam. Adjust if necessary to make twisted rib pattern correct. Place marker and work 1½ in. / 4 cm (or desired length) in twisted rib. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Weave in any loose ends, sew buttons at back and on sleeves, if desired, and steam lightly or block according to directions on ball band.