New Orleans Shrimp

This is an excellent cold appetizer: shrimp marinated in a spicy vinaigrette dressing, which must be served thoroughly chilled, perhaps on a bed of greens.

	6	12	20	50
olive oil	½ c	1 c	1⅔ c	3¼ c
garlic cloves, finely minced	2–3	4–6	7–9	10–12
small onions, finely chopped	2	4	7	10–12
raw shrimp, shelled and deveined	2 lbs	4 lbs	6⅔ lbs	15 lbs
scallions, finely chopped	6	12	20	30
lemon juice	½ c	1 c	1⅔ c	2½ c
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	3 tbs
freshly ground black pepper	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp
dry mustard	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	5 tsp
Tabasco, to taste, or	¼ tsp	½ tsp	¾ tsp	1¾ tsp
dried dillweed	2 tsp	4 tsp	2½ tbs	6 tbs

Heat one-third of the oil in a heavy skillet, add the minced garlic and onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, over a moderate flame for 10 minutes. Do not let brown. Add the shrimp and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, still stirring, then remove from the heat and cool.

In a large bowl, combine the remaining oil, minced scallions, lemon juice, and seasonings. Add the shrimp mixture and toss thoroughly. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 6 to 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Serve quite cold, over ice if possible, with toothpicks.

 

Shrimp in Dill Pesto

Pesto is that green spaghetti sauce that gets its flavor and color from fresh basil. This fresh dill version is delicious on shrimp. Served cold on a lettuce “boat,” this is an excellent first course.

A mixture of fresh dill and parsley may be used.

	6	12	20	50
white wine	½ c	1 c	1⅔ c	4 c
water	½ c	1 c	1⅔ c	4 c
peppercorns	6	12	20	50
bay leaves	1	2	3	8
thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	1⅔ tsp	3¾ tsp
small onions	1	2	3	8
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	8 tsp
raw shrimp, shelled and deveined	1 lb	2 lbs	3⅓ lbs	8 lbs
olive oil	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2½ c
garlic cloves	4	7	12	26
fresh dill weed, roughly chopped	l½ c	3 c	5 c	12 c

Combine the wine, water, peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, onions, and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and simmer only until the shrimp curl and turn pink, about 5 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the pan, then turn up the heat and reduce the liquid by half.

Make the pesto in batches by pouring the olive oil about ½ cup at a time into the blender. Add some of the garlic and dill to each batch and blend. Empty the blender into a large bowl as you go. Repeat until all the oil and dill and garlic are used up. When all is thick and smooth, stir the reduced cooking liquid into the bowl and beat hard until the pesto is creamy and smooth.

Put the shrimp in a serving bowl and pour the sauce over. Toss well and chill before serving.

 

Crabmeat Pastry

After a long cocktail hour, the dinner guests to whom I served this needed an interesting appetizer. This worked. Crab makes a savory filling for flaky strudel pastry. This is best served hot from the oven, but is quite good reheated. Phyllo is a paper-thin pastry “leaf” that is used for baklava, spanokopita, and many other Middle Eastern dishes. It can be bought at Greek or Middle Eastern groceries or at specialty shops. It is often sold frozen, wrapped in plastic, and should be defrosted overnight, in its own wrapper, in the refrigerator. Since it becomes brittle and unworkable quickly when exposed to air, you should keep it covered with a layer of waxed paper covered with a very slightly damp cloth as you work, but don’t let it get wet, or it will stick together.

Filling

	6	12	20	50
onions, chopped	1	2	4	7
butter	5 tbs	10 tbs	2 sticks	1¼ lbs
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	¾ c
milk, at room temperature	2 c	4 c	6 c	10 c
parsley, chopped	1 tsp	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs
fresh dill, chopped	1 tsp	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs
mushrooms, chopped	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	2½ c
canned pimiento, chopped	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs
eggs, hard-boiled and chopped	2	4	7	14
Tabasco, to taste, or	1 dash	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp
Worcestershire sauce	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	4¾ tbs
sherry	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	4¾ tsp
dried basil	1 pinch	½ tsp	¾ tsp	1 tbs
salt and pepper		(to taste)
crabmeat, fresh, frozen, or canned	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	10 lbs
breadcrumbs, very fine	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	4 c
Pastry
phyllo	½ lb	1 lb	1½ lbs	3 lbs
melted butter for phyllo	¾ c	1½ c	2⅔ c	5 c

Pick over the crabmeat carefully for shell and cartilage. Then, in a heavy saucepan, sauté the onion in the butter until golden, then stir in the flour. Add the milk slowly as you cook, stirring, over low heat; continue to stir until thick and smooth. Remove from the heat and add all the remaining ingredients except the phyllo and the melted butter. If the mixture seems loose, add more breadcrumbs; if thick, more milk.

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Prepare 9 × 13 × 1½-inch pan[s] by brushing melted butter on the bottom. [One 9 × 13 × 1½-inch pan will serve six very large portions, two pans, twelve large portions. For twenty, reduce portion size, use two 9 × 13 × 1½-inch pans, and have leftovers. For fifty, reduce portion size and use three 9 × 13 × 1½-inch pans and one 10-inch square pan, or four of the first size.] Lay one sheet of phyllo at a time in the pan, brushing each with melted butter, until you have about ten layers. Spread the crabmeat mixture over the phyllo, and then lay ten more sheets of phyllo, brushing each with butter, over the crabmeat. Pour the remaining melted butter over the top and bake for 45 minutes, or until golden brown. If you are baking three pans at once, it may take longer. Cut into approximately 3-inch squares to serve.

NOTE: This may be made the day before serving, and reheated for 15 to 20 minutes before cutting.

 

Momos

Momos are meat-filled dumplings, native to Tibet, which combine the texture and style of Chinese dumplings with a spicy meat filling reminiscent of Indian curries. I learned to make these in Nepal, where we used water buffalo for the ground meat filling, but a mixture of beef and pork seems to work almost as well. These can be made in large quantities and frozen after they have been steamed, for later resteaming or frying in oil. They are traditionally served with a clear broth that is garnished with chopped scallion or a spicy tomato sauce with powdered red pepper to taste.

Dough

	6	12	20	50
unbleached, all-purpose flour	2 c	4 c	6½ c	12 c
cold water		(as needed)
Filling
ground beef and pork, mixed	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	12 lbs
ground coriander	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
ground cumin	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
ground turmeric	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
ground cinnamon	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
coarse salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
cayenne	¼ tsp	½ tsp	¾ tsp	2 tsp
mustard* or peanut oil	1 tbs	2 tbs	3¾ tbs	8 tbs
scallion bunches, cleaned and the very finely minced, including green stalk	1	2	4	8

* Mustard oil is a mild vegetable oil available in Indian, Middle Eastern, or specialty markets. Since it is not flavored, peanut oil or any vegetable oil can be substituted. Do not buy medicinal mustard oil.

Sauce

	6	12	20	50
mustard or corn oil	2 tbs	3 tbs	5 tbs	½ c
small onions, finely chopped	1	2	4	8
dried fenugreek	2 tsp	4 tsp	6 tsp	4 tbs
or
fenugreek seed	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	2 tbs
fresh tomatoes	4	8	12	30
cayenne		(to taste)
fresh coriander leaves	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½ c
fresh parsley	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½ c
salt	(to taste)

Dough

Prepare the dough first. Place the flour in a large bowl. [For the largest amount, prepare the dough in two batches.] Make a well in the middle and pour in a little cold water, stirring the flour in from the sides. Keep adding water until the dough sticks together in a ball and is soft. Place the dough on a tabletop and knead, adding more flour, if necessary, to make a springy, elastic dough. Place in a bowl and cover with a dish towel while you prepare the filling.

If you buy the meat ready ground, if possible have the butcher grind them together again, or you can grind them at home using a fine blade on the meat grinder.

Place the meat in a bowl, then add all the remaining filling ingredients. Mix it well with hands for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is smooth.

To assemble the momos, break off a piece of dough the size of a small walnut. Roll it into a ball and then flatten, with fingers or rolling pin, on a floured surface. Be careful not to make the dough in the center too thin; the edges should be thinner than the center. Place a small ball of filling in the center of each round and fold, which you may do in one of the following ways.

The easiest is to fold the dough over the filling, making a half-moon shape, and to pinch the edges shut in a scallop pattern. The traditional way is to make a round dumpling with the edges gathered in pleats at the top, and sealed in the center. To do this—and to avoid having too much dough lumped at the top—place a small ball of filling in the center of the circle of dough. With the circle

flat on one hand, pinch a pleat in the edge of the circle with the thumb and forefinger of the other, and holding the pleat add successive pleats to it with the forefinger, turning until the edges are all gathered in pleats over the filling. Twist the top together.

Place the dumplings on a plate that has been dusted with flour. When they are all done, put them on greased plates in a steamer so that they do not touch each other and steam them for about 25 minutes. They may then be frozen, or cooled and fried in oil. Fried or steamed, they may be piled on a hot platter and eaten accompanied by the following sauce.

Sauce

Heat the oil in a saucepan and sauté the onion until golden. Add the fenugreek seeds, if used, and sauté, stirring, for 3 minutes. Chop the tomatoes and any fresh herbs you are using. Then, add the tomatoes, fenugreek leaves if used, cayenne, coriander or parsley and coriander, and salt and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes. If the sauce dries out, add a little water; it should have the consistency of a light spaghetti sauce (by the way, this is a Tibetan noodle sauce as well). Let cool to room temperature for serving with momos.

 

Salad Méchouia

Far from the ordinary tuna salad, méchouia lifts that canned fish out of banality. A rich combination of tuna, peppers, and oil, to be served with Syrian bread as a first course to a Middle Eastern meal, this recipe comes from Morocco and is excellent with a couscous dinner.

Syrian bread is a flat, circular loaf that can be split into two layers. A filling may be put inside. Syrian bread (sometimes called pita) is available in some supermarkets or in specialty shops.

Harissa is a hot Moroccan pepper paste that is available in tins or tubes. It is sold in specialty shops. For a substitute use Tabasco sauce and mashed hot chili peppers.

	6	12	20	50
green peppers	2	4	8	20
large tomatoes	2	4	8	20
capers	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	10 tbs
olive oil	¼ c	½ c	1 c	2½ c
juice of fresh lemons	½	1	2	5
or
bottled lemon juice to taste, or	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	1 c
tuna, 7-ounce cans, flaked	1	2	4	8–10
garlic cloves, finely minced	2	4	6	14
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground pepper		(to taste)
Harissa		(to taste)

Toast the peppers and tomatoes together over charcoal (this can be messy, so surround the area with foil) or char them on a gas flame. Or place under broiler (again on foil) for 20 minutes, turning occasionally, until cooked and well charred. Let cool for a few minutes, then peel the peppers and tomatoes with your fingers and place all the pulp in a bowl.

Add the remaining ingredients, tasting for balance of hot and salt and acid, and cool to room temperature before serving.

NOTE: This does not need refrigeration but should be kept in a cool place overnight. It can be stored in the refrigerator but should be brought back to room temperature before serving. It is traditionally very hot and very oily.

 

Moroccan Chermoulah

This is another spicy Moroccan appetizer, which should be salty to “increase appetite.” It is a rich, peppery, and oily accompaniment for Syrian bread.

	6	12	20	50
large green or red bell peppers, seeded and cut into thin strips	2	4	8	20
whole garlic cloves, peeled	4–5	8–10	16–20	36–40
salt	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
paprika	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
olive oil	1 c	2 c	3½ c	5 c
wine vinegar	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
ground coriander	2 pinches	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp

Put all the ingredients into a saucepan and cook slowly for about 20 minutes, or until the peppers are tender. Spoon into a clean jar and refrigerate. Before serving, bring to room temperature and remove the garlic cloves.

NOTE: This does not need refrigeration, but should be kept in a cool place. It can be made several days ahead.

 

Homous

A Middle-Eastern chick-pea appetizer, served with Syrian bread, this is popular in Israel and throughout the Middle East, and is becoming a cocktail party stand-by in the United States.

In this recipe, it is important to keep tasting and adding things—some people like more garlic, some less lemon juice, some like it oily.

Sesame paste is also known as tahini, and can be bought in cans or jars in Middle Eastern stores and specialty shops. It is ground sesame seeds, and is used in pastries and savories. It should be stirred well before using, as the oil often separates.

	6	12	20	50
20-oz cans cooked chick-peas, drained and rinsed	1	2	3½	8
sesame paste	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	4 c
fresh lemon juice, to taste, or	½–¾ c	1– 1½ c	2–3 c	3–4 c
garlic cloves	2	4	8	12
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	1½ tbs	3 tbs
olive oil, if necessary
Italian parsley, for garnish

Place all the ingredients except the olive oil and parsley in a blender (in batches) and blend until smooth. Repeat until all are used up. Add water to make a loose paste, and add a little olive oil, if necessary, to loosen it. Refrigerate (it will keep overnight), then bring to room temperature to serve. Stir before serving on a flat plate, garnished with the parsley.

 

Baba G’hanouj

The reader may have begun to detect a bias toward Middle Eastern appetizers. This eggplant “paste” is addictive. No matter how much you make, it will all be eaten.

Sesame paste is also known as tahini, and can be bought in cans or jars in Middle Eastern stores and specialty shops. It is ground sesame seeds, and is used in pastries and savories. It should be stirred well before using, as the oil often separates.

	6	12	20	50
large eggplants	2	4	7	15
juice of whole lemons, to taste, or	2	4	7	15 or 1½ c
sesame paste	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	15 tbs
salt		(to taste)
large garlic clove[s]	1	2	4	10
olive oil to taste, or	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	15 tbs
fresh parsley, chopped	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2 c

Cook the eggplant over a gas flame or charcoal, or under the broiler of an electric stove, until charred all over, 30 minutes or more. If cooking a large number, char first, then place in a 325° oven on baking sheets until the insides are completely soft. Set them aside to cool for about 1 hour.

Peel and discard the burnt skin, then put the flesh into a mixing bowl and immediately add the lemon juice. Mash very well, then add the tahini and blend well. Add the salt; mash the garlic and add. Stir well and chill. Serve in a flat dish, with olive oil poured over. Garnish with the chopped parsley and serve with Syrian bread.

 

Dolmathes

Ellen Sarkisian taught me to roll these—the first of my Middle Eastern recipes.

Grape leaves, stuffed with herbed rice and braised, make an excellent appetizer. If obtainable, use fresh grapevine leaves, young and unsprayed. Prepare them by washing and placing them in layers with coarse salt. Pour boiling water over them and let stand for 1 hour.

	6	12	20	50
small onions, finely chopped	1	2	3	8
butter or olive oil	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2 c
granulated sugar	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	8 tbs
salt	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	8 tbs
freshly ground black pepper	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	8 tbs
raw rice	l c	2 c	3½ c	8 c
fresh parsley	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
and
fresh dill, finely chopped	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
or
fresh mint, finely chopped	4 tbs	8 tbs	12 tbs	1½ c
fresh lemon juice	1 lemon	2 lemons	3 lemons	1 c
fresh grape leaves	36	72	126	216
or
1-lb jars grape leaves	1	2	3½	6
chicken broth	2 c	4 c	7 c	14 c
olive oil		(to taste)

Garnish

	6	12	20	50
lemon wedges
Greek olives	½ lb	1 lb	1½ lbs	3¼ lbs

Brown the chopped onion very slowly in the butter or oil. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper, then remove from the flame. Fold in the rice, dill, and parsley and stir in the lemon juice.

Drain the leaves (fresh or preserved) and rinse in cold water. To roll the leaves, spread out a leaf with the shiny side down. Place a teaspoon of filling in the center, fold over the sides, then roll up. Place the rolled leaves, with overlapping edges down, in a saucepan, tight against each other. You may put them in layers.

Pour the broth slowly over the rolls. Simmer very gently for 45 minutes, adding more broth if necessary; check every 15 minutes. Let cool in the hot broth, then drain.

Arrange the grape leaves on a platter and sprinkle with olive oil. Serve at room temperature, garnished with lemon wedges and Greek olives.

NOTE: These can be kept in a cool place instead of the refrigerator.

 

Quiches

I like serving individual quiches for the first course of an elaborate dinner. They are rather filling, so make them small—I use small foil pans, about 3 inches across. Or make several large quiches to slice. If you make a large quantity of the basic egg and cream filling, you can make several kinds of quiches for a buffet, in one baking, simply by adding cooked spinach to some, grated cheese and sautéed onion to others, and raw shrimp to still others. (Or cooked artichoke hearts, or blanched asparagus tips, or use your imagination.)

Use any standard recipe for pie crust, chilled for at least two hours before you roll it out. If making more than one pie (serving six) it is better to make it fresh in separate batches, rather than mixing one large bowl for twelve, twenty, or fifty. I find it is easier to control the mixing of the flour and fat this way.

One standard 9-inch quiche serves six. One batch of pastry for a 9-inch quiche will make about 4 small tart-sized quiches.

Basic Quiche Mixture

	6	12	20	50
eggs	4	8	16	34
salt	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs
cayenne		(to taste)
grated nutmeg		(to taste)
light cream	1 pt	2 pts	4 pts	8 pts

Garnish Suggestions

	6	12	20	50
raw shrimp, shelled, deveined, and chopped	1 c	2 c	4 c	2 lbs
Swiss cheese, grated	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs
onion, finely chopped,	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
sautéed in butter, until brown	1 tbs	4 tbs	4 tbs	½ lb
10-oz packages fresh spinach, cleaned, chopped, and cooked in the water clinging to the leaves	1	2	4	8
Preheat the oven to 375°.

Combine all the ingredients for the basic quiche mixture and beat lightly, then set aside while you roll out the pie crust to fit the pans. Add one or more of the garnishes above and pour in the basic quiche mixture, to about ¼ inch of the top of the crust. Bake for about 40 minutes (the small pans will take less time).

NOTE: These can be served warm or cool, but they are best tepid, I think.

 

Phyllis Blumberg’s Chopped Chicken Livers

Chopped chicken livers make a classic appetizer. Add a few drops of Cognac and it will be unforgettable. It’s better if it’s made the day before.

	6	12	20	50
chicken fat	4 tbs	8 tbs	¾ c	1 lb
or
butter	½	1	1½	1 lb
	stick	stick	sticks
raw chicken livers	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	10 lbs
eggs, hard-boiled	2	4	7	12
medium onions	2	4	7	16
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
Cognac (optional)	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	7 tbs

Serving

pumpernickel bread, sliced
onions, sliced in rings

Melt the fat or butter in a skillet and sauté the chicken livers, in batches, until firm. Remove from the heat and let stand while peeling the eggs and cutting the onions into quarters. Reserve the melted fat or butter in the pan.

Using a meat grinder, grind the livers, eggs, and onions together. Add the reserved melted fat or butter and salt, pepper, and Cognac to taste. Mound the mixture in a large serving dish and chill overnight. Serve with wedges of pumpernickel (see recipe on page 20) and onions sliced in rings.

 

Pumpernickel Bread

Pumpernickel is a bread with a secret. Some say it is prunes that distinguish it; this recipe claims it is chocolate. It will make three round loaves, which, thinly sliced, should provide appetizer portions (with chopped chicken livers, for instance) for 50.

Dough

unsweetened chocolate squares (1 oz each)	2
yellow cornmeal	¾ c
cold mashed potatoes	2 c
warm water, 115°	3½ c
molasses	¼ c
salt	2 tbs
butter or margarine	1 tbs
caraway seeds	2 tsp
active-dry-yeast packages	2
rye flour	3 c
all-purpose flour	8 c
Glaze
egg yolk	1
water	3 tbs

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over simmering water. Then, in a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, potatoes, 3 cups of the warm water, chocolate, molasses, salt, butter or margarine, and caraway seeds.

In a very large bowl (I use a 5-gallon kettle) place the remaining ½ cup of warm water and sprinkle on the yeast, then stir to dissolve.

Stir in the cornmeal mixture and rye flour and beat hard until well mixed. Stir in 3 cups of the all-purpose flour to make a soft dough.

Turn onto a floured board or tabletop and knead in additional flour, to 5 or more cups, to make a smooth, elastic dough. This will take about 10 minutes.

Place the dough in a greased bowl—or wash out the kettle and dry and grease it—then turn the dough to grease the top, cover, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. Punch down, then let rise again for 30 minutes.

Punch the dough down and turn onto a lightly floured board or table. Divide into three equal parts, shape into round loaves, and place on greased baking sheets. Cover with tea towels and let rise until double—about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°.

Mix the water and egg yolk for glaze and brush the loaves with the egg-yolk liquid. Bake loaves for 1 hour, or until tapping on the bottom of the loaves produces a hollow sound. Cool thoroughly on racks, then wrap well and refrigerate. This recipe makes 3 round loaves.

NOTE: This bread slices best when one day old. It can also be successfully frozen.

 

Pâté de Campagne

Coarse pâtés of this type are excellent for informal parties or picnics. You can substitute other meats, such as veal, or other meat livers, for those suggested.

	6	12	20	50
small onions	2	4	7	17
butter	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	2 sticks
fresh, boneless pork	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	4 lbs
raw dark chicken meat, boneless	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	4 lbs
chicken or pork liver	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	4 lbs
eggs	1	2	3	7
Cognac, port, or sherry	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	⅔ c
garlic cloves, finely minced	2	4	7	15
freshly ground black pepper	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	4 tsp
allspice		(to taste)
thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	4 tsp
bay leaves, crumbled	1	2	3	6
salt		(to taste)
pork fat	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	4 lbs

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Sauté the minced onion in the butter until soft, but not browned. Put the pork, chicken, and liver through a meat grinder twice. Beat in all the other ingredients except the pork fat, then sauté a small spoonful of the mixture and taste. Correct the seasoning.

Slice the fat into very thin sheets and use it to line a 9 × 4 × 3-inch loaf pan or terrine [two, four, or eight 9 × 4 × 3-inch loaf pans]. Put the pâté mixture into the lined pan[s], then put the pans in roasting pan[s] and surround them with hot water at least halfway up their sides. Cover the pan[s] with foil and bake in the roaster[s] for 1½ hours or until the juices from the pâté run clear and yellow, not pink or red.

Remove the pan[s] from oven and pour the water out of the roaster[s]. Replace the loaf pan[s] in the roaster pan[s] and place a small dish or board on the pâté, with a 1-pound weight or equivalent (such as a heavy can), to press and firm up the pâté as it cools to room temperature. Remove the weight and refrigerate.

NOTE: The pâté is best eaten 2 days after it is made.

 

Swedish Limpa Bread

This is a sweet, rich rye bread that goes well with unsalted butter. It is good with a thick-soup and salad meal.

Dough

	2 loaves	4 loaves	8 loaves
warm water	2 c	4 c	8 c
shortening	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs
aniseed, crushed	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
or
fennel seeds, crushed	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
molasses	¼ c	½ c	1 c
light-brown sugar	⅓ c	⅔ c	1⅓ c
active-dry-yeast packages	1	2	4
all-purpose flour	3½ c	7 c	14 c
salt	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs
rye flour	2¼ c	4½ c	9 c
vegetable oil	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
Glaze
egg yolk	1	2	3
water	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs

Combine 1¼ cups [2½ cups, 5 cups] of the water, the shortening, aniseed, molasses, and brown sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 3 minutes, then cool to lukewarm (about 45 minutes).

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the remaining ¾ cups [1½ cups, 3 cups] warm water. Add the molasses mixture and the all-purpose flour and beat until smooth. Cover this sponge and let it rise until doubled in bulk (1½ to 2 hours).

Stir down the sponge and add the salt and rye flour. Brush the surface with oil, cover, and let rise again until doubled in bulk. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°.

Punch the dough down and knead it for 8 to 10 minutes. Form the dough into 2 [4, 8] smooth, round balls and place on greased baking sheets. Brush the top of the loaves with the egg yolk and water (mixed together) and bake at 350° for 50 minutes, or until hollow sounding when rapped with the knuckles. Remove from the baking sheets and cool on cake racks. The texture is best after the bread has thoroughly cooled, possibly the next day.

NOTE: This bread can be frozen.

 

Cream of Mushroom Soup

Mushrooms make a fine and luxurious soup. To make this soup even more elegant, stir in a few tablespoons of sherry at the very end.

	6	12	20	50
onion, minced	¼ c	½ c	1 c	2½ c
butter	5 tbs	10 tbs	2 sticks	5 sticks
all-purpose flour	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	⅔ c
boiling chicken stock	6 c	12 c	5 qts	12 qts
or
boiling canned chicken broth	6 c	12 c	5 qts	12 qts
mushrooms	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	6 lbs
small bay leaves	1	2	4	8
thyme	pinch	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
salt	2 pinches	½ tsp	¾ tsp	1 tsp
lemon juice	1 tsp	2 tsp	l½ tbs	3 tbs
heavy cream	½ c	1 c	l½ c	3 c
Garnish
fresh parsley, chopped	2 tbs	3½ tbs	½ c	1¼ c

Clean the mushrooms carefully. Separate the stems from the caps and then chop them both. Keep the chopped stems separate from the chopped caps.

Cook the onion slowly in 3 tablespoons [6 tablespoons, 10 tablespoons, 3 sticks] of the butter until tender but not browned. Add the flour and stir over low heat for 5 minutes without browning. Remove the pot from the heat and beat in the hot chicken stock or broth. Season to taste, then stir in the chopped mushroom stems and simmer with the bay leaves and thyme for 20 minutes or more. Strain, pressing the juices out of mushrooms. Discard the mushroom stems and return the soup to the kettle.

Melt the remaining butter in a separate saucepan, and add the mushroom caps, salt, and lemon juice. Cover and cook slowly for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and pan juices to the soup and simmer for 10 minutes. Before serving, add the cream while beating with a wire whip. Heat slowly but do not let boil. Garnish each bowl with parsley and serve.

NOTE: This can be refrigerated and served the next day.

 

Cold Cucumber Soup

Cucumbers are great in soup as well as in salad. Though this soup is served cold, don’t hesitate to serve it with a heavy winter meal. Your guests will be delighted.

	6	12	20	50
peeled and seeded cucumber, coarsely chopped	3 c	6 c	10 c	15 large
chicken broth	1½ c	3 c	5 c	12 c
light cream	1½ c	3 c	5 c	12 c
chives, chopped	⅓ c	⅔ c	1⅓ c	2⅔ c
celery leaves, chopped	⅓ c	⅔ c	1⅓ c	2⅔ c
fresh parsley, chopped	4 sprigs	⅓ c	⅔ c	2 c
all-purpose flour	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	⅔ c
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
Garnish
lemon rind, grated	1 lemon	2 lemons	3 lemons	7 lemons
	or	or	or	or
	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	7 tbs

Combine all the soup ingredients except the salt and pepper and blend in small batches in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a saucepan as blended and heat, stirring, until the soup is very hot, slightly thickened, and has lost any floury taste. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cool, then refrigerate.

Before serving, stir thoroughly and garnish each bowl with a little grated lemon rind.

NOTE: This can be made the day before serving.

 

Cucumber-Yogurt Soup

This soup is similar to cucumber raita (page 131). It is excellent as a starter for any summer meal.

	6	12	20	50
medium cucumbers	2	4	7	15
salt		(to taste)
chicken broth	3 c	6 c	3 qts	6 qts
plain yogurt	2 c	4 c	7 c	8 pts
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
Garnish
scallions (including the green), finely chopped	3	6	10	25

Peel the cucumbers with a vegetable peeler. Slice in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Chop half of the cucumbers roughly, setting the rest aside, and sprinkle with salt. Place in a colander and let drain onto a plate for about 30 minutes. Rinse and dry on paper towels.

Puree the chopped cucumber in a blender with a small amount of the chicken broth. (You will have to do this in small batches.) Put the blended cucumber and all the remaining chicken broth into a large bowl or kettle. Grate the rest of the cucumber into shreds and add.

Put the yogurt into a large bowl or kettle and add the cucumber mixture slowly, stirring well. Season to taste. Garnish with finely chopped scallion and serve.

 

Broccoli Soup

Broccoli seems an unlikely soup vegetable, but this is one of the most delicate and delicious soups I know. On no account forget the sesame seeds.

	6	12	20	50
fresh broccoli bunches	1	2	4	8
chicken stock	5 c	10 c	5 qts	10 qts
or
canned broth	5 c	10 c	5 qts	10 qts
heavy cream	1 c	2 c	4 c	8 c
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
Garnish
butter	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	2 sticks
sesame seeds	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c

Carefully peel the stems of the broccoli, then cut the whole bunches into small chunks. Bring the broth to a boil, add the broccoli, and cook it until it falls apart. Puree the soup in a blender or put it through a food mill, and let cool. Add the heavy cream.

Set the soup aside if it is not to be served immediately, and refrigerate when cool. When ready to serve, reheat, being careful not to boil the soup, and add salt and pepper to taste.

In a separate saucepan, melt the butter and add the sesame seeds. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the seeds just begin to brown. Don’t let them burn. Add the butter and sesame seeds to the soup just before serving.

 

Garlic Soup

Garlic soup can be a light first course or a thick main dish. Despite what seems to be an extraordinary amount of garlic, it loses its “fire” and takes on a lovely, nutty taste in the cooking.

Garlic cloves are easier to peel if they are first dropped in boiling water for about 10 seconds and then drained in a colander.

	6	12	20	50
garlic cloves, peeled	1 c	2 c	3½ c	7 c
small onions, chopped	1	2	3	8
olive oil	6 tbs	¾ c	1 c and	2¾ c
			7 tbs
canned Italian plum tomatoes, drained	⅔ c	1⅓ c	2 c	6 c
chicken or beef stock	1 qt	2 qts	4 qts	8 qts
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	5 tsp
bay leaves	1	2	3	6
egg yolks	1	2	3	7
Garnish
fresh parsley, chopped	¼ c	½ c	1 c	2 c
Romano cheese, grated	1 c	1½ c	2 c	4½ c

Mince the garlic, then place it, along with the onion and 2 tablespoons [4 tablespoons, 7 tablespoons, 3¼ cups] of the oil, in a deep saucepan. Heat slowly and cook, stirring, until soft. Do not brown. Add the tomatoes, stock, salt, pepper, thyme, and bay leaves and simmer for 40 minutes. Press through a sieve or food mill and set aside in a cool place until ready to serve.

Just before serving, place the egg yolk[s] in a small bowl and beat well. Drop by drop add the remaining olive oil to the yolks, as if for a mayonnaise, beating constantly until thick. Bring the soup just to a boil and add, little by little, the hot soup to the mayonnaise, beating constantly. After a cup of soup has been added, you may safely pour the egg-soup mixture back into the pot, but do not allow it to boil. Garnish with the parsley and serve with French bread and grated Romano cheese in a separate bowl.

NOTE: This soup may be made heartier by adding potatoes, more tomatoes, or other soup vegetables after straining. Cook until tender, and continue as above. You might even add some garlic sausages, cut in chunks. Serve with salad and bread as a main luncheon dish.

 

Spinach Soup

A simple but rich-tasting soup. You can substitute margarine for the sautéing butter, and eliminate the rest, if you like.

	6	12	20	50
fresh spinach	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	3½ lbs
butter	6 tbs	1 stick and 4 tbs	2 sticks and 5 tbs	4 sticks and 6 tbs
onion, chopped	1 c	2 c	3½ c	7 c
medium potatoes, peeled and quartered	4	8	14	28
chicken stock	2 c	4 c	7 c	3 qts
water	2 c	4 c	7 c	3 qts
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
heavy cream	1 c	2 c	3½ c	3 pts

Rinse the spinach well, and shred with a large, sharp knife. Heat 4 tablespoons [1 stick, 1¾ sticks, 3 sticks] of the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onion until wilted. Add the spinach, potatoes, stock, and water and cook until the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes).

Put the soup through a food mill or sieve (not a blender!). Season with salt and pepper and stir in the cream. Bring just to a boil and stir in the remaining butter if desired. Serve at once.

NOTE: If made ahead, do not add the cream and remaining butter until just before serving time.

 

New England Clam Chowder

This chowder is everything it should be: fresh-tasting, rich (a main dish), and authentic. The most important things to remember are: keep the sand out, use salt pork, and serve it the day after it is made. I will not dispute the claims of Manhattan chowder to “authenticity,” but I will defend this chowder’s superior delectability.

	6	12	20	50
steamer clams, scrubbed and picked over	3 lbs	6 lbs	10 lbs	20 lbs
salt pork, rind removed	½ lb	¾ lb	⅞ lb	2 lbs
medium onions	1	2	4	8
milk	4 c	8 c	2 qts	4 qts
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
medium potatoes	3	6	10	24

Place the clams in a large kettle with about 2 inches of water. [For twenty, steam two batches; for fifty, four batches.] Turn the heat to high, cover the pot, and cook until the clams open wide. Set aside to cool until you can handle them. Reserve the cooking liquid.

Remove the clams from their shells, washing them in the reserved cooking liquid to remove extra sand. Pour off the liquid, leaving the sand in the bottom of your pot. Peel each “neck” and chop off, then chop all the necks together and set aside. Place the stomachs in a bowl.

Chop salt pork very finely. Put it in a large, heavy saucepan and heat slowly until it has rendered its fat and the pieces are golden. Remove the pieces and drain on paper towels. Peel the potatoes and dice them. Add the onion to the rendered fat and cook over medium heat until golden. Add the clam necks and simmer 3 minutes, then add the clam stomachs, potatoes, and reserved clam steaming liquid. (You must be careful not to include any sand; if you are in doubt, strain the reserved clam liquid through several layers of cheesecloth.) Simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the milk and salt and pepper to taste, and heat. After the milk has been added, do not let the chowder boil. Add the browned salt pork bits. Let cool before refrigerating, to serve the next day.

 

Cauliflower Soup

Cauliflower is not a versatile vegetable, perhaps because of its powerful savor. This soup is rich and delicate, and will be loved by the staunchest cauliflower hater.

	6	12	20	50
butter	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½ c
medium onions	2	4	7	15
chicken broth	4 c	8 c	14 c	8 qts
heads of cauliflower	1	2	4	8
light cream	½ pt	1 pt	1½ pts	3½ pts
		(or as needed)
salt or freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)

Garnish

Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan and cook the onion in it over low heat until golden. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil.

Wash and drain the cauliflower; then separate it into florets. Add the cauliflower to the broth and reduce the heat to a simmer. Let cook until cauliflower is tender.

Puree the broth and cauliflower in a food mill. Add cream to thin, and salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with the chopped fresh herbs.

NOTE: This can be served cold.

 

Fermented Watercress Soup

Do not be put off by the bizarre sound of this soup: it is quite interesting and delicious. It is a potato-based soup, made on the pattern of a vichyssoise, and with the interesting addition of “aged” cress. My thanks to Mr. Shi, who first had this soup in 1918 in Chicago, and remembers it vividly now.

Dried watercress is available in Chinese markets.

	6	12	20	50
fresh watercress bunches	3	6	10	20
or
dried watercress	1 oz	2 oz	3½ oz	7 oz
salt, to taste, or	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	¾ c
small onion, chopped	1	2	3	8
leeks, cleaned and chopped	2	4	7	15
butter	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1 c
medium potatoes	4	8	15	30
chicken broth		(as needed)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)

Place the watercress (fresh or dried), washed, cleaned, and dried, in a glass or enameled bowl. Add salt and cover with cold water. Set in the refrigerator for 3 days.

Place the chopped onions and leeks in a heavy saucepan with the butter and sauté gently until translucent and golden. Peel and quarter the potatoes and add them to the onions and leeks. Cover with chicken broth. Simmer gently until the potatoes are cooked through (about 25 minutes).

Drain and chop the watercress and add to the soup. Puree in a blender or put through a food mill, then thin with more chicken broth until smoothly soupy. Season to taste and serve.

 

Lentil Soup with Mettwurst

A rich and filling soup, with which you will need only bread, salad, and dessert to make a good lunch or supper. Try it with other sausages or cooking salamis, too. Any uncooked (but smoked) fine-grained sausage may be substituted.

	6	12	20	50
dried green lentils	1 c	2 c	3½ c	7 c
butter	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	2 sticks
large onion, finely chopped	1	2	3½	8
celery stalks, finely chopped	1	2	3	8
carrots, peeled and thinly sliced	2	4	7	14
bay leaves	1	2	3	5
thyme	pinch	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
bouillon	1 qt	2 qts	3½ qts	7 qts
or
rich chicken stock	1 qt	2 qts	3½ qts	7 qts
mettwurst	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)

Soak the lentils in water to cover overnight.

The next day, drain the lentils well. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the chopped onion, celery, and carrots, then the bay leaves and thyme. Let simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes. Add the bouillon or stock, lentils, and sausage and cook at a gentle simmer for about 2 hours, or until the lentils are tender.

Remove the sausage and set aside. Put the soup in a blender in small batches and blend until smooth. Leave about one-quarter of the soup unblended and add to the smooth soup for “texture.”

Slice the reserved sausage and add to the soup with salt and pepper to taste.

NOTE: The soup can be reheated, but more stock or water will be needed because lentils thicken as they stand. It can also be kept in a cool place, unrefrigerated.

 

Senegalese Soup

Senegalese soup is a smooth cream of chicken with curry. A classic French adaptation of Oriental tastes, this soup is elegant and smooth, and acceptable as a beginning to any meal.

	6	12	20	50
onions, chopped	2	4	7	15
celery stalks, chopped	2	4	6	10
apples, peeled and chopped	2	4	7	10
Butter	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	3 sticks
curry powder	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs	¾ c
all-purpose flour	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2 c
chicken stock or broth	4 c	8 c	4 qts	8 qts
salt		(to taste)
chili powder		(to taste)
cayenne		(to taste)
heavy cream	2 c	4 c	5½ c	10 c

Garnish

fresh parsley, chopped

    or

avocado, peeled and chopped

In a large saucepan (or two kettles) sauté the onions, celery, and apples in the butter until the mixture is soft but not browned. Add the curry powder and sauté for 2 minutes more, then add the flour, stirring well. Cook, stirring, for a minute or so more. Gradually stir in the chicken stock or broth and cook the soup until it thickens. Add the salt, chili powder, and cayenne to taste.

Puree the mixture in a blender or put through a food mill, a few cups at a time, until smooth. Chill the soup, if serving it cold. Just before serving, stir in the cream and garnish each portion with parsley (hot) or avocado (cold).

NOTE: While the soup can be served hot or cold, it is best (and easiest for a crowd) if served cold.