Spanokopita

This Greek spinach pie is an excellent luncheon dish and can be served lukewarm at a picnic.

Phyllo is a paper-thin pastry “leaf” that is used for baklava, spanokopita, and many other Middle Eastern dishes. It can be bought at Greek or Middle Eastern groceries or at specialty shops. It is often sold frozen, wrapped in plastic, and should be defrosted overnight, in its own wrapper, in the refrigerator. Since it becomes brittle and unworkable quickly when exposed to air, you should keep it covered with a layer of waxed paper covered with a very slightly damp cloth as you work, but don’t let it get wet, or it will stick together.

	6	12	20	50
spinach, fresh	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	15 lbs
scallion bunches	1	2	3	7
olive oil	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	8 tbs
feta cheese	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	7 lbs
or
feta	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	3½ lbs
and
farmer's cheese	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	3½ lbs
eggs, lightly beaten	7	14	20	30
baking powder	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	3 tsp
salt		(to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
phyllo pastry	½ lb	1 lb	1½ lbs	3 lbs
melted butter	½ c	1 c	1½ c	2½ c

Wash, drain, and chop the spinach. (If you are making a large amount, the easiest way is to wash the spinach and cook it in a large kettle, briefly, in the liquid clinging to its leaves, until it wilts. Then chop it.) Chop the scallions, and brown them slightly in a skillet in a little olive oil. Combine the scallions, cheeses, eggs, baking powder, salt, and pepper, and toss with the spinach.

Brush a 9 × 13 × 1½-inch or larger baking pan with butter. Lay in it five or six sheets of phyllo, brushing each with butter. Add spinach mixture and cover with 5 or 6 more sheets of phyllo, brushing each with butter. (You can use more phyllo if you like, and spread the spinach between several of the middle layers.) Be sure the top layer of phyllo is an unbroken one. Pour the remaining melted butter over all and bake in a 350° oven until golden. For one pan, this will take about an hour. Serve hot, cut into squares.

 

Putney School Borscht

This is a Ukrainian borscht, which the Putney School serves at its Harvest Festival. It is a superb winter food, and excellent for crowds because it can be expanded (with the “stretching ingredients”) in the last half hour of cooking or reheating. Make it the day before, and keep it chilled until you reheat it. Serve with dark pumpernickel or herb bread, salad, and fruit.

Basic Soup

	6	12	20	50
lean stewing beef (rump or chuck)	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs	10 lbs
beef or chicken stock	6 c	12 c	6 qts	10 qts
onions, chopped	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs	10 lbs
celery stalks, chopped	2	4	7	15
carrots, coarsely chopped	2	4	7	15
canned tomatoes, chopped	1½ c	3 c	7 c	10 c
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
garlic cloves, finely chopped	1	2	3	6
fresh beet bunches, with greens	1	2	4	8
vinegar or lemon juice	2½ tbs	5 tbs	7 tbs	12 tbs
granulated sugar		(to taste)
fresh parsley, finely chopped	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	⅔ c
Stretching Ingredients
medium potatoes, peeled and cubed	5	10	14	20
cabbage heads, shredded (or as needed)	½	1	1½	3

Garnishes

	6	12	20	50
hard-boiled eggs	2	4	7	15
cucumbers, peeled and cubed	1	2	3	5
green peppers, chopped	2	4	7	10
radish bunches, sliced	1	2	3	8
sour cream	1 c	1 pt	2 pts	4 pts
celery leaves, chopped

Cube the meat, place it in the stock, bring to a boil, and skim. Reduce the heat, then add the onions, celery (reserve the leaves for garnish), carrots, tomatoes, salt, pepper, and garlic and let simmer, half-covered.

Cut the stems and leaves off the beets, wash thoroughly, and store in the refrigerator. With a stiff brush, scrub the beet roots under running water. Place in a saucepan full of boiling water and cook until tender. Drain, but save the water. Let the beets cool until you can handle them, then peel and shred on a grater. Set aside.

Clean the beet greens again, removing wilted leaves. Chop the greens, put them in a plastic bag, and store again; the greens should be kept as crisp as possible during the whole process.

When the beef is almost tender (about 1½–2 hours), add the potatoes and cook for 15 minutes more. Add the cabbage, the shredded beet root, lemon or vinegar, and sugar. Cook for 10 minutes longer. Just before serving, add the beet greens and parsley and cook another 10 minutes. Set out the garnishes on a tray and let each guest add to the borscht as desired.

NOTE: This soup can be kept unrefrigerated, in a cool place.

 

Shrimp with Feta Cheese

Shrimp, like chicken, are good adapters. I particularly like the combination of fresh, slightly acid Greek feta cheese with herb-flavored shrimp. This Mediterranean dish is best prepared with fresh dill and tomatoes, but is excellent in any version.

	6	12	20	50
olive oil	¼ c	½ c	13 tbs	¾ c
onions, finely chopped	½ c	1 c	1½ c	4 c
garlic cloves, finely chopped	2	4	6	10
parsley, finely chopped	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	3 c
fresh dill weed	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	½ c
or
dried dill weed	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	4 tbs
dry mustard	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	1 tbs
granulated sugar	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	1 tbs
tomatoes, fresh	3 c	6 c	3½ lbs	7½ lbs
or
28-oz cans	1	2	3½	7
tomato sauce	¾ c	1½ c	3 c	6 c
raw shrimp, shelled and deveined	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5½ lbs	12 lbs
feta cheese, crumbled	¾ lb	1½ lbs	3 lbs	6 lbs

Preheat the oven to 425°.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until the onion starts to brown. Add the garlic, parsley, and dill, then stir in the mustard and sugar. Do not add salt, as the feta is very salty.

If you are using fresh tomatoes, immerse them in boiling water for 30 seconds to loosen the skin and then peel. Chop the tomatoes and drain well to avoid having this dish too soupy. Add the tomatoes and tomato sauce to the saucepan and simmer for 30 minutes. If it is very watery, raise the heat a little and reduce the sauce.

Add the shrimp to the sauce and cook briefly until pink and curled. Pour the mixture into one or more large casseroles and sprinkle with the crumbled feta. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese is melted. Serve with rice pilaf and green salad.

NOTE: This casserole can be refrigerated overnight and brought to room temperature before baking.

 

Chilaquiles

Serve this recipe as hot with peppers as you can stand it; make something else if the company won’t tolerate the spice. Chilaquiles is a rare treat for the heat-lover.

	6	12	20	50
3-pound chickens	1	2	4	8
salt		(to taste)
pickled hot cherry peppers	4	8	14	20
hot chilies, canned or fresh*	2	4	6	10
Italian plum tomatoes, 35-oz can, drained	1	2	4	8
garlic cloves	1	2	4	8
cooking oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	⅔ c
medium onion, chopped	1	2	4	8
chicken broth or stock	2 c	4 c	7 c	2 qts
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
sharp Cheddar cheese, grated	2 c	4 c	7 c	12 c

* Note: Clean chilies and remove seeds under cold running water. Do not touch face, eyes, etc. until you have washed your hands well, and if you have any cuts on your hands, bandage or cover them tightly before touching a fresh chili.

Cook the chickens in a large preserving kettle in just enough salted water to cover for about 1 hour. (If you want a richer broth, cook chickens in canned broth instead of water.) Let the chicken cool in the broth, then remove and pull all the meat off the bones with your fingers.

If you have the time, or are doing this the day before, put the bones back in the broth and bring it to a boil, then simmer over low heat for about 2 hours. The broth will be triple-rich. You can then strain it, and use some later in the recipe. The remainder can be frozen—in ice-cube trays, then in plastic bags—for use any time.

Chop the hot cherry peppers roughly and put in blender, with the chilies, tomatoes, and garlic. You will have to do this in batches, and remove the mixture to a large bowl as it is done.

In a heavy saucepan, heat the cooking oil over a medium-high flame. Add the onions and sauté, stirring, until they are golden. Turn the flame down to low and add the tomato chili-pepper mixture. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, then add the chicken broth or stock and cook very slowly for about 30 minutes. The sauce should be thickish.

Toss the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In a large casserole, make layers, beginning with the sauce, of sauce, chicken, and cheese, ending with a layer of cheese.

NOTE: The dish can be refrigerated for a day or so at this point, or kept in a cool place. It is better made a day ahead. It can be frozen, but be sure to bring it out 5 to 6 hours before heating it; if the casserole is large, the center of this dense mixture will stay frozen for a surprisingly long time.

Two hours before serving, bring to room temperature. One hour before serving, preheat the oven to 325° and bake the chilaquiles for 45 minutes to 1 hour [1 to 1½ hours if pans are deeper than 3 inches] until the top is bubbling and brown and the whole is heated through.

Serve with rice and red kidney beans, and salsa fria (a fresh pepper hot sauce) for those who demand even more “heat” to their food.

 

Chicken Tandoori

An Indian tandoor is a conical clay oven in which marinated meats are charcoal-cooked. The meat, fish, and chicken are typically bright red with spices, tangy, and dry. I have tried for ten years to reproduce the taste of the chicken tandoori I’ve had in India, and only approximate it by a combination of charcoal searing and oven baking. Some recipes call for yogurt in the marinade, but this makes it too wet, I think.

Kashmiri mirch is a red pepper powder; if unavailable, use Spanish paprika. Tandoori mixture is available at Indian spice dealers and specialty markets. Spanish paprika, used above in place of Kashmiri mirch is sweet, not hot. Hungarian paprika is obtainable sweet or hot, and if you do not use Kashmiri mirch, which is hot, here use hot Hungarian paprika or cayenne to achieve heat.

	6	12	20	50
3-pound fryer chickens	1	2	4	8
lime juice	¼ c	½ c	1 c	2 c
kosher salt	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	½ c
Spices
garlic cloves	3	6	10	20
fresh ginger, grated	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	5 tbs
freshly ground coriander seed	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	5 tbs
freshly ground cumin	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	3 tbs
cayenne	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
powdered aniseed or fennel seeds	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp
Kashmiri mirch	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs
freshly ground black pepper	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
tandoori mixture (optional)	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	5 tbs
peanut oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	8 tbs	1¼ c
hot Hungarian paprika	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
or
cayenne	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	2½ tbs

Garnish

onion rings, thinly sliced
lime wedges

Cut the chickens into eight pieces, then wash and pat dry. Place the pieces in a large glass, ceramic, or enameled container and toss well with lime juice and salt. Let marinate, refrigerated, for a day or overnight, then combine all the spices and rub into the skin of the chicken, coating thoroughly. Marinate for another 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 375°.

If possible, sear the chicken pieces over a very hot charcoal fire, such as a grill or hibachi. Place the chicken pieces, preseared or not, on baking sheet[s], or in roasting pan[s] and bake for an hour (or until done and juices run clear) basting with the remaining marinade and the peanut oil (mixed with the Hungarian paprika if used). Remember that this is a “dry” dish and should not have a lot of sauce. Serve hot or cold (it’s good for picnics) with lime wedges and onion rings, accompanied by nan (bread baked on the inside walls of the tandoor) or toasted hot Syrian bread.

 

Chicken Paprikash

A pungent Hungarian recipe, in which paprika, sour cream, tomatoes, and dill make a savory combination. This dish is best made with the dark meat of the chicken; the white meat tends to overcook and is also overwhelmed by the strong flavors.

Hungarian paprika is obtainable “hot” or “sweet.” Use only imported.

	6	12	20	50
chicken legs and thighs	4½ lbs	9 lbs	15 lbs	30–36 lbs
small onions, minced	2	4	7	15
salt	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	½ c
garlic cloves, finely minced	5	10	15	2 heads
fresh dill weed, finely chopped	4 tbs	8 tbs	¾ c	1½ c
or
dried dill weed	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	¾ c
chicken stock	2 c	4 c	1½ qts	3 qts
dry, white wine	1 c	2 c	3½ c	2 bottles
sweet Hungarian paprika	4 tbs	8 tbs	¾ c	1½ c
tomato purée	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2 c
sour cream	¾ c	1½ c	2¾ c	6 c

Place the chicken in a low, wide saucepan. Add the onion, salt, garlic, half the dill, chicken stock, and wine. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the chicken pieces from the liquid and place them in a baking pan in a 300° oven while preparing the sauce.

Skim the fat off the liquid in the pan, then reduce over very high heat by one-half. Stir in the paprika and the tomato purée and continue to cook the sauce until it thickens slightly. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Pour over the chicken, sprinkle with the remaining dill, and serve.

NOTE: If made ahead, do not put the chicken in the oven while preparing the sauce. Instead, reheat the chicken in the sauce slowly in the oven before sprinkling with the dill.

 

Chicken Parisienne

A “safe” casserole for crowds whose tastes are unknown. It is delicious, but no one’s palate will be surprised.

If you substitute canned tomato sauce, add thyme and bay leaves.

Use Romano alone if you like, if the cost of 6 cups of Parmesan is too much. If you can buy solid Romano or Parmesan and grate it yourself, you will have a more pungent, fresher cheese.

	6	12	20	50
3½- to 4-pound roasting chickens	1	2	4	8
chicken stock or water to cover	approx.	approx.	approx.	approx.
	1 qt	2 qts	4 qts	6 qts
carrots, peeled and sliced	1	2	4	10
celery stalks, roughly chopped	2	4	7	12
medium onions studded with	1	2	4	8
cloves	2	4	8	16
peppercorns	12	20	35	50
salt		(to taste)
butter	½ stick	1 stick	2 sticks	1 lb
all-purpose flour	¼ c	½ c	1 c	2 c
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
heavy cream	6 fluid oz	¾ pt	1 pt, 4 liquid oz	3 pts
Tabasco		(a few drops of, to taste)
broad egg noodles	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs
homemade tomato sauce	1½ c	3 c	5 c	12½ c
chives, finely chopped	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½ c
scallions, finely chopped	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½ c
egg yolks	1	2	4	8
Parmesan cheese, grated	¾ c	1½ c	2½ c	6 c
or
Romano and Parmesan cheese, grated and mixed	¾ c	1½ c	2½ c	6 c

Place the chicken in a large kettle and add stock, broth, or water to cover, the carrots, celery, onion, and peppercorns. (Add salt only if water is used.) Bring to a boil and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender.

Remove the chicken and continue to boil the broth until it is reduced by one-half. Strain and reserve the broth. When the chicken has cooled a little, discard the skin and bones and pull the meat into strips. Set aside, moistened with a little of the broth.

Melt 2 tablespoons [4 tablespoons, 1 stick, ½ pound] of the butter and add the flour, stirring. When it is blended, add the reserved broth, stirring vigorously with a wire whisk. When blended and smooth, simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes. (This is the velouté sauce.)

Preheat the oven to 350°. Melt 1 tablespoon [2 tablespoons, 4 tablespoons, 1 stick] of the butter in a skillet or large saucepan and add the chicken meat. Stir and sprinkle with salt and black pepper. Mix ½ cup [1 cup 1½ cups, 4 cups] of the cream with ½ cup [1 cup, 1½ cups, 4 cups] of the velouté. Add the Tabasco and stir this sauce into the chicken meat. Remove from the heat.

Cook the noodles in a large kettle in boiling salted water until they are tender. Do not overcook. Rinse in cold water and drain, then heat the remaining butter and toss the noodles in it.

Butter a large casserole[s], and add a layer of noodles and a layer of tomato sauce. Sprinkle with chives or scallions and spread chicken over all. Blend the remaining velouté with the remaining cream and the egg yolk[s]. Heat, until thickened, over low heat. Do not allow to boil, or the eggs will scramble. Spread over the chicken and sprinkle with cheese. (At this point the dish may be set aside, cooled, and refrigerated—or kept in a very cool place overnight or for 1 or 2 days.) Bake at 350° for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or longer if the casserole is very large. The top should be golden brown and bubbly.

 

Chicken Bengal

A chicken curry that is simple but authentic. It should prove to you the virtue of avoiding ready-made curry powder; you can compose your own from the suggested spices. Also, you might try adding fenugreek and poppy seeds. This is a “gentle” curry, which can be made hotter by increasing the cayenne. Ready-made curry powder is often stale, as the spices were probably ground months before you buy it. The “sameness” of commercial curry powder is to me quite boring: Indian cooks make their own mixtures for each dish, of different spices and proportions. The following mixture is one I often use and can be ground in quantity in the blender and refrigerated in a screw-top jar for a week or two.

2 oz coriander seeds

2 oz cumin seeds

4–6 small dried red chilies

2 oz turmeric

½ oz cinnamon

¼ oz cloves, whole

¼ oz nutmeg

¼ oz mace

2 oz fenugreek, optional

5 pods cardamom seeds, optional

In heavy saucepan, heat all the above until they smell but are not browned. Blend together until powdered.

	6	12	20	50
frying chickens, cut into 8 serving pieces	2	4	6½	11
plain yogurt	1 c	2 c	3½ c	6½ c
garlic cloves, finely minced	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1–2 heads
salt		(season to taste)
cayenne, to taste, or	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
fresh ginger, finely chopped	1 tsp	2 tsp	1½ tbs	3 tbs
butter	2 tbs	4 tbs	1½ sticks	3½ sticks
cooking oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
onion, minced	2 c	4 c	7 c	10 c
Spices
cloves	3	5	8	14
ground fennel	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	5 tsp
ground coriander	2 tsp	4 tsp	6 tsp	10 tsp
ground turmeric	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	7 tsp
ground cumin	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	5 tsp

Place the chicken in a mixing bowl [or a large preserving kettle] and add the yogurt, half the garlic, and salt and cayenne. Add the minced ginger, toss well, and let stand for at least 2 hours. (You can leave it overnight in the refrigerator.)

Melt the butter in a heavy casserole [or two large skillets]. Add the oil and onion, and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the onion is soft and golden. Add the remaining garlic and spices. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes.

Add the chicken and marinating liquid, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender. If the sauce is very watery, remove the chicken and keep warm while you reduce the sauce by boiling. Replace the chicken in the sauce and let cool if not serving immediately. Serve with the usual accompaniments of raita, pilaf, crisp pappadums, raisins, freshly grated coconut as desired (see pages 131 and 137).

NOTE: This is even better reheated and served the next day.

 

Couscous

Couscous, a semolina cereal, is usually steamed and has many varieties that are peculiar to different parts of North Africa and the Middle East. Couscous is traditionally made in a two-part steamer called a couscousière, which is available but not necessary, as you can improvise a steamer by lining a colander with cheesecloth, fitting it over a kettle, and covering it with a tight-fitting lid.

This recipe is from Morocco (with some additions by a Tunisian friend), where the couscous is steamed and served with spicy meats and vegetables, and with a fiery-hot pepper sauce. I serve it with chicken or lamb, and often with the Sweet Meatballs that follow this recipe. This meal is very filling, so I would precede couscous only with a light soup or maybe Baba G’hanouj (page 14) with Syrian bread strips, and follow with a plain green salad and fruit. Couscous is available, in one-pound boxes, in import shops. Harissa is usually available where couscous is sold.

Harissa is a hot Moroccan pepper paste that is available in tins. It is sold in specialty shops. For a substitute, use Tabasco sauce and mashed hot chili peppers.

	6	12	20	50
couscous	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	6–7 lbs
sweet butter	1 stick	2 sticks	3 sticks	6 sticks
or
peanut oil	½ c	1 c	1½ c	3 c
boneless lamb, cut into small cubes	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	12 lbs
onions, thinly sliced	2	4	7	12
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
grated fresh ginger	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
or
ground ginger	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	1⅓ tbs
ground turmeric	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2½ tbs
saffron	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	3 tsp
soaked in warm water	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	6 tbs
ground cinnamon	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
cloves	4	6	9	18
freshly grated nutmeg	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	3½ tsp
potatoes	3	6	10	22
small, white turnips	2	4	7	16
carrots	3	6	10	22
20-oz cans chick-peas	1	2	3½	6
zucchini	3	6	10	22
raisins	½ c	1 c	1½ c	3½ c
almonds, blanched and slivered*	½ c	1 c	1½ c	3½ c
Harissa	2 tbs	3–4 tbs	5–7 tbs	2 cans
or
Tabasco		(to taste)

* Eliminate if serving with Sweet Meatballs, page 63.

Place the couscous in a large bowl (you can use a clean plastic dishwashing basin) and add about 2 cups [4 cups, 2 quarts, 4 quarts] cold water. Stir briefly with your fingers, then let stand 1 hour, mixing occasionally with your fingers to break up lumps. Throughout the cooking procedure, you will have to stir the couscous gently to keep lumps from forming.

In the bottom of the couscousière kettle heat all but 2 tablespoons butter or oil [about 4 tablespoons, about ¾ stick, all but ¼ pound or ½ cup] and toss the lamb cubes into it. Add the onion and cook over low heat until wilted, then add the salt, pepper, and remaining spices, including the saffron and its soaking water. Then add enough water to cover all the ingredients by 2 inches. Place the top part of the pot, or the colander, over this. Line colander or top of couscousière with dampened doubled cheesecloth and add the couscous, checking once more for lumps. Cover and cook for 1 hour, checking occasionally to see that the liquid has not boiled away, and stirring occasionally.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into quarters. Also peel and quarter the white turnips. Peel the carrots and cut them into 1-inch lengths and scrub the zucchini and cut it into 1-inch lengths. Rinse and drain the canned chick-peas.

Remove the top part of the pot, stir the couscous again, and set the top aside. Add the potatoes, turnips, carrots, and chick-peas to the bottom and stir. Return the couscous and steam and cook another 20 minutes. Remove the couscous again, stir, and add the zucchini, raisins, and almonds, if used, to the bottom. Steam and cook for 20 minutes.

Pour the couscous into a large bowl and stir in the remaining butter or oil. Make a well in the center and put the stew into the hole. Serve with harissa in a small dish, or stir some into the stew and grain if you are sure that your guests will like a hot dish.

 

Sweet Meatballs for Couscous

These meatballs can also be served with pilaf and a fresh green salad for a lighter meal. They are incredibly rich and delicious; the prunes add a mysterious sweetness.

	6	12	20	50
ground lamb or beef	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	10 lbs
onions, finely chopped	7	14	24	44
fresh parsley, finely chopped	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
eggs, lightly beaten	1	2	3	6
matzo meal	½ c	1 c	2 c	3 c
tomato paste	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	1½ 6-oz cans
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
vegetable oil	4 tbs	8 tbs	12 tbs	1¼ c
water	4 c	8 c	12 c	4 qts
raisins*	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	3 c
prunes*	8	16	30	50
whole, blanched almonds	1 c	2 c	3½ c	6 c
brown sugar	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	3 c
ground cinnamon	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	2 tbs

* Soak raisins in warm water for 10 minutes. Soak prunes in warm water until soft. Drain them both well before using.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the meat in a large bowl and add 1 [2, 4, 6] finely chopped onions, the parsley, egg[s], and matzo meal, then add the tomato paste, salt, and pepper. Knead well for about 5 minutes until quite smooth. Add 1 tablespoon [2 tablespoons, 4 tablespoons, 6 tablespoons] of the oil and knead again. Shape into small balls and refrigerate.

In a heavy, ovenproof pan, heat the remaining oil and brown the remaining onions in it. Add the water and bring to a boil, then add salt to taste. Drop the meatballs, one at a time, into the broth and cook at a simmer until they are firm, about 8 minutes. Add the raisins, prunes, almonds, brown sugar, and cinnamon.

Bake in the oven until mahogany-colored and almost all the liquid has disappeared. Do not cover, but watch carefully at the end to make sure the meatballs do not burn.

NOTE: For large amounts, a wide, heavy pan such as a lasagna pan is best, or a wide, earthenware casserole. These reheat successfully.

 

Lapin Chasseur

A simple rabbit stew can be a rich and savory treat. Fresh thyme and parsley are especially important for this dish, as are fresh tomatoes, fresh mushrooms, and good olive oil.

	6	12	20	50
rabbits, cut into serving pieces*	1	2	4	8
olive oil	4 tbs	8 tbs	12 tbs	1½ c
onions, sliced	1	2	4	8
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	14 tbs
dry, white wine	2 c	3½ c	1½ bottles	3 bottles
bay leaves	1	2	3	6
fresh thyme, finely chopped	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp
parsley, finely chopped	3 sprigs	½ c	1 c	2 c
medium tomatoes, chopped	2	4	7	15
fresh mushrooms, sliced	½ lb	1 lb	1¾ lbs	4 lbs
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)

* If you buy rabbit frozen, it is usually precut.

Preheat the oven to 325°. Brown the rabbit pieces in hot oil, in a heavy skillet. Add the onions and cook until golden, then remove the rabbit pieces and set aside. Add the flour to the oil and onions in the skillet and stir well over low heat. Add the wine, herbs, tomatoes, and mushrooms.

Place the rabbits in a large casserole and cover with the wine mixture. Cook, covered, in the oven for about 2 hours. The rabbit should not be falling off the bones.

NOTE: This casserole can be kept in a cool place, unrefrigerated, overnight. It is really excellent the next day.

 

Joy Walker’s Chili

This is a thick, rich chili, which should really be made ahead, at least a day and better two, before serving. It can be stretched with extra red kidney beans. Serve with fluffy rice, or just salad and crusty bread.

Coriander is available in Spanish markets, where it is called “cilantro” and in Chinese markets where it is called “Chinese parsley.”

	6	12	20	50
oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	15 tbs
medium onions, chopped	3	6	10	24
ground beef	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	7 lbs
celery stalks, chopped	2	4	7	15
green peppers, seeded and chopped	2	4	7	15
oregano		(season to taste)
chili powder		(season to taste)
thyme or savory		(season to taste)
granulated sugar	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	2½ tbs
35-oz cans Italian plum tomatoes	1	2	4	10
20-oz cans cooked red kidney beans	2	4	7	10
or
dried red kidney beans soaked overnight and cooked until tender	¾ lb	1½ lbs	2½ lbs	4–5 lbs
Garnish
fresh coriander bunches, chopped	1 small	2	2½	5

Heat the oil in a large kettle. Sauté the onions until golden, then add the beef, breaking up lumps as it browns. When evenly colored, add the celery, green peppers, oregano, chili powder, thyme or savory, and sugar. Add the liquid from the tomatoes and simmer, then chop the tomatoes and add them. Cook for about 30 minutes over a very low flame, stirring occasionally. Add water if the mixture is too dry.

Drain the kidney beans and rinse in a colander. Add to the kettle and cook for at least 30 minutes, again over low heat. Taste and correct the seasoning. Let cool before refrigerating and reheat slowly, adding water if needed. Serve garnished with chopped fresh coriander.

NOTE: This can be kept unrefrigerated, in a cool place, overnight.

 

Pork Vindaloo

A vindaloo is a dry and very hot Indian curry. It can be made gentler, as long as it has a “bite.” The important thing is to give the pork a long marination in vinegar, to produce a “pickled” taste. Serve it with a cucumber raita (page 131), and Orange Rice Pilaf (page 137).

	6	12	20	50
boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	16 lbs
salt	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	4 tbs
white wine vinegar	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	2 c
onions, finely minced	2	4	7	16
garlic cloves, finely minced	6	12	20	48
mustard seed	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	5½ tbs
ground cumin	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	7 tsp
ground turmeric	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	7 tsp
fresh ginger, finely chopped	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	7 tbs
ground cinnamon	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	7 tsp
freshly ground black pepper	¼ tsp	½ tsp	¾ tsp	2 tsp
cloves	¼ tsp	½ tsp	¾ tsp	2 tsp
cayenne (this should be HOT)		(to taste)
butter or oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1¼ c
large tomatoes, peeled and chopped	2	4	7	16
bay leaves, crumbled	2	4	7	12

Place the pork cubes in a glass or enameled bowl and mix with 2 teaspoons [4 teaspoons, 2 tablespoons, 5⅓ tablespoons] salt and the wine vinegar. Set aside.

Combine the onion and garlic with all the spices. Heat a heavy skillet (use no oil) and fry the spice mixture in it, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the spice mixture to the pork, toss well, and marinate in the refrigerator or in a cold larder for at least 24 hours. (If refrigerated, this dish improves with a 2-day marination.)

Heat the butter or oil in a heavy casserole. Add the pork and marinade, the tomatoes, and the bay leaves, and add more salt to taste if needed. Cook very slowly, covered, for about 2 hours. By the end there should not be much sauce, and the pork should be mahogany-brown but not falling apart.

 

Portuguese Sausage Casserole

Sausages and beans are the basis for many casseroles that can provide a hearty but inexpensive meal for a crowd. You can experiment with different kinds of sausage (linguica, chorizo—or any good garlic sausage) and beans.

	6	12	20	50
olive oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	9 tbs	1½ c
medium onions, chopped	3	6	9	24
garlic cloves, finely chopped	2	4	7	16
dried thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
dried basil	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
bay leaves	2	4	7	14
35-oz cans Italian-style tomatoes	1	2	4	9
20-oz cans white kidney beans	1	2	4	9
or
dried white kidney beans, soaked overnight and cooked until tender	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	5 lbs
20-oz cans chick-peas	1	2	4	9
or
dried chick-peas, soaked overnight and cooked until tender	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs
potatoes, peeled and quartered	3	6	9	24
chicken broth	1½ c	3 c	5 c	12 c
Portuguese sausages, sliced into rounds	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	16 lbs
breadcrumbs	1 c	2 c	3½ c	8 c
Optional
chopped green pepper	1	2	4	10

Have all ingredients soaked, cooked, chopped, and so on, as directed above.

Heat the oil in one [or two large] casseroles. Sauté the onion over medium heat until golden and wilted. Add the garlic, thyme, basil, and bay leaves and cook another minute. Add the tomatoes and their liquid, chopping them up as you add them.

If you are using canned beans and chick-peas, drain them in a colander and run cold water through them. Add the beans and chick-peas to the casseroles along with the potatoes, then add the broth. Let cook over low heat for 20 minutes, then add the sausages and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the green pepper and cook another 15 minutes. Top the casserole with breadcrumbs and set aside (or refrigerate) until needed.

One hour before serving, place in a preheated 375° oven and heat until bubbly and brown. All the cooking, from the addition of the broth, can be done in the oven, which is especially useful if you are cooking a large amount.

NOTE: This is particularly good the next day; plan to make it ahead. It can also be kept, unrefrigerated, in a cool place.

 

Beef Ragoût

After watching me try several recipes for beef stew, my daughter developed this one, which is especially good because of the added orange peel. Use only the orange part: do not use white of peel as it is very bitter when cooked.

	6	12	20	50
butter	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
cooking oil	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	8 tbs
stewing beef, preferably chuck, cut into ½ -inch chunks	1½ lbs	3 lbs	6 lbs	12 lbs
medium onions, sliced	2	4	7	16
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
dry, red wine	1 c	2 c	3½ c	7 c
or
beef stock	1 c	2 c	3½ c	7 c
carrots, peeled and roughly chopped	2	4	7	16
garlic cloves, finely chopped	1	2	4	7
fresh thyme, finely chopped	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	1½ tbs
or
dried thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	1½ tsp	2 tsp
bay leaves	1	2	4	8
tomato paste	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	1½ 6-oz cans
2-inch, thin strips of orange peel	2	4	7	12
peppercorns	6	12	20	40
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2 tbs

Melt the butter and oil together in a large, heavy saucepan. Have a large casserole at hand. Over medium heat brown the meat, several pieces at a time, and as they are browned, remove them to the casserole. Add the onions to the pan and cook until soft over a medium flame.

Add the flour to the beef and toss to cover well, add the browned onions to the beef. Add the wine or stock, and bring to a simmer, stirring. Then add the carrots and the remaining ingredients. Add extra stock, wine, or water to cover all the ingredients.

Reduce the heat to very low, cover, and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the meat is soft to the touch or the fork. Do not let it cook too much or the meat will disintegrate. And watch the liquid, so that it doesn’t boil away. Let the ragoût cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.

Reheat slowly and serve with whipped potatoes, boiled noodles, or rice. Or just crusty French bread and salad.

NOTE: This is 100 percent better the next day, so be sure to make it ahead.

 

Pollo al Limone

A sophisticated, subtle Italian chicken dish, it should be served with Soave Bolla, a dry white wine, and accompanied by crusty bread, a simple green vegetable such as crisp green beans tossed in olive oil and garlic, and a salad. Lemon or lime is a fine adjunct to both artichokes and chicken.

	6	12	20	50
chicken, boned and cut into 2-inch pieces	3 lbs	6 lbs	10 lbs	24 lbs
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
medium onions, thinly sliced	2	4	7	16
fresh mushrooms, sliced	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	4½ lbs
olive oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1 c plus 6 tbs
garlic cloves, mashed	2	4	7	16
dry white wine	1 c	1 bottle	2 bottles	3 bottles
chicken stock, as needed	½ c	1 c	1½ c	4 c
salt, to taste, or	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
freshly ground black pepper		(to taste)
bay leaves	1	2	4	8
parsley, finely minced	2–3 tbs	4–6 tbs	¾ c	1½ c
fresh summer savory	2 sprigs	4 sprigs	⅓ c	⅔ c
or
fresh basil	2 sprigs	4 sprigs	⅓c	⅔c
or
fresh chervil	2 sprigs	4 sprigs	⅓ c	⅔ c
or
dried basil or chervil	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp
lemons, thinly sliced	1–2	3–4	5–6	8–10
20-oz cans artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed	1	2	3–4	8

Dust the chicken pieces with flour and set aside. Brush mushrooms clean or rinse quickly and dry. Remove woody stems and slice the mushrooms. Sauté the onions and mushrooms in the olive oil in a large casserole. Add the garlic, then place the chicken in the casserole, mixing it with the mushrooms and onions. Add the wine and enough stock to cover the chicken. Simmer slowly, uncovered, for about 10 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, bay leaves, parsley, and the dried herbs, if dried are used. Add the artichoke hearts and stir gently. Place the lemon slices on top, cover, and cook for another 15 minutes. Add the fresh herbs, if used, at the very end. This dish can be served on a bed of rice.

 

Rogan Jaush

This simple but delicious lamb curry is also called “color-passion curry.” Make it hot, and add green peppers 10 minutes before the end if you like. For this it’s best to grind your own spices, either in a pepper grinder, or with a mortar and pestle, or, for large amounts, in a blender.

	6	12	20	50
butter	5 tbs	10 tbs	2 sticks	5 sticks
medium onions, finely chopped	6	12	20	40
lamb (leg or shoulder) cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	16 lbs
ground red chilies	½ tsp	1 tsp	1½ tsp	1 tbs
or
cayenne	½ tsp	1 tsp	1½ tsp	1 tbs
salt		(season to taste)
yogurt	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
ground coriander	1½ tbs	3 tbs	5 tbs	½ c
ground cumin	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	4⅓ tbs
fresh ginger, finely chopped	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	⅓ c
ground turmeric	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	⅓ c
ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped	3	6	10	22
green peppers, diced (optional)	2	4	5	12

Heat the butter in a heavy casserole. Brown the onion to an even dark brown, but do not let it burn.

Add the lamb, pushing the onion to the sides. Add the chilies (or cayenne), salt, yogurt, coriander, cumin, ginger, and turmeric. Crush the tomatoes onto the meat and cover closely. Let the meat cook at a very low simmer until the liquid is reduced. If the liquid has not reduced after 45 minutes, cook uncovered until meat is tender; the sauce should reduce to a syrupy thickness by the time the dish is done.

Serve with rice pilaf, raita, and chutney. Don’t serve nuts and coconut with this, since the pilaf should have raisins and almonds in it.

NOTE: This is best reheated the next day.

 

Swedish Meatballs

The dill and wine give these meatballs extra flavor. They are excellent reheated and do well in a chafing dish for a buffet supper.

	6	12	20	50
ground chuck	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	8 lbs
ground pork and veal, mixed	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	8 lbs
white bread slices	2	4	7	15
milk	½ c	1 c	2 c	3½ c
large onions, peeled and sliced	1	2	4	9
eggs	1	2	4	9
freshly grated nutmeg	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
sweet Hungarian paprika	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2½ tsp
fresh dill weed, chopped	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	½ c
salt	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	1½ tbs
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
claret or other dry red wine	¾ c	1½ c	2½ c	5½ c
butter	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	3 sticks
tomato paste	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs	2 6-oz cans
all-purpose flour	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	¾ c
garlic cloves, finely minced	1	2	4	9
sour cream	1 c	1 pt	2 pts less ½ c	4½ pts
granulated sugar	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	½ c
fresh parsley, finely chopped	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c

In a large bowl [use a preserving kettle, or even a wash basin for a large recipe], combine the ground chuck, pork, and veal. In another pan, soak the bread in the milk, then squeeze dry and add to the meat. Add the onions to the meat. Beat the eggs thoroughly and add them to the meat, along with the nutmeg, paprika, salt, pepper, and ¼ cup of the wine [½ cup, ¾ cup, 1 cup]. Mix well with your hands, and shape into small balls (if for cocktails, very small). Place the meatballs on waxed paper on baking sheets and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. This stiffens them and makes it easier to brown them.

Heat a large, heavy skillet [two]. Add butter as needed, and when it is bubbling, add a few meatballs at a time and brown them on all sides. As they are done, remove them from the pan and place in a casserole.

After the meatballs are all browned, add the tomato paste and flour to the skillet, rubbing it in and scraping the pan as you stir. Gradually add 1½ cups water [3 cups, 5 cups, 9 cups] or more and let it bubble up. Then add the remaining wine and the garlic.

Stir and cook for 20 minutes, adding more water if too thick. (If it gets lumpy, strain through a sieve.) Remove from the heat and add the sour cream. Return the meatballs to the sauce and heat very slowly, over very low heat. Do not allow to boil. Simmer for 15 minutes, then add the sugar and parsley. Serve with boiled egg noodles and salad.

 

Fox Noodles

In Japan, these buckwheat soba noodles are often served with fried bean curd, which is said to be a favorite of the fox. With the addition of sliced Chinese sausages, they are a favorite of mine.

Soy-bean curd, tofu, usually in square cakes, is available fresh in Japanese markets. Japanese noodles are available in Chinese or Japanese markets or in health food stores. You may substitute no. 2 spaghetti. Dashi is a Japanese soup base. You can buy it at Japanese shops in the form of large “tea” bags which you infuse in boiling water. Sausages can be bought in Chinese markets. They keep, refrigerated, up to two weeks.

	6	12	20	50
tofu cakes	1	2	4	10
corn or peanut oil	½ c	1 c	1½ c	3½ c
buckwheat soba noodles or udon	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs	8 lbs
salt		(season to taste)
dashi	7 c	14 c	6 qts	14½ qts
or
clear chicken broth	7 c	14 c	6 qts	14½ qts
soy sauce (use Kikkoman or imported Chinese)	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1 c
granulated sugar	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1 c
small Chinese pork and liver sausages	3	6	10	24
scallions, chopped with green part	2	4	8	20

Slice the tofu carefully into ¼-inch slices. Place on a flat board or plate and cover with waxed paper. Place a weighted plate on top to press out the liquid. (It helps to rest the plate at an angle, so that the liquid drains off.) Dry on paper towels.

Heat 1 inch of oil in a wok or heavy skillet and fry the slices, a few at a time, in very hot oil until firm and slightly browned. Remove and place on paper towels to drain.

Bring a large kettle of water to boil and add the buckwheat soba noodles or udon, stirring to separate. Boil for about 8 minutes, then drain in a colander and run cold water over them. Set them aside in the colander.

Combine 1 cup [2 cups, 1 quart, 2 quarts] of the dashi (or broth), the soy sauce, and sugar in a saucepan. Add salt to taste and boil until the sugar is dissolved. Add the fried tofu and boil for 5 minutes on high heat.

Just before serving, heat the remaining broth, add the Chinese sausages, and cook at a low simmer for 10 minutes. Put the soba noodles in large bowl, add the sausages and broth, then put the tofu and the sugar-soy mixture on top. Sprinkle the scallions over the top.

 

Pollo al Jerez

This is a Spanish recipe, interpreted by a Puerto Rican cook. It is important to use good sherry (not necessarily an expensive sherry) for this recipe—a medium sweet will do. It can soak into the chicken for two days, if you’d like a more pervasive sherry taste.

	6	12	20	50
3-to-4-pound roasting chickens, cut into serving portions	1	2–3	4–5	8–10
sweet sherry	3 c	5 c	7 c	1½ bottles
		(more if needed)
butter	¼ lb	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs
tiny onions, peeled*	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	8 lbs
35-oz cans whole Italian-style plum tomatoes, drained	1	2	4	8
bay leaves	2	4	6	12
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
4-oz jars pimiento-stuffed green olives, drained	½	1	2	4

* Drop the onions into boiling water for 10 seconds before peeling to make it easier.

Wash the chicken pieces, then pat them dry. Place the chicken in a deep glass or nonporous glazed bowl. Add the sherry, cover, and let sit overnight, or longer, in the refrigerator. When ready to cook, remove the sherried chicken from the refrigerator, and drain, reserving the sherry.

Put half the butter into a large, heavy casserole and melt it over moderate heat. Add the chicken, a few pieces at a time, and brown on both sides. Push the browned pieces over to the sides of the casserole when you add more. When all the chicken is browned, add the remaining butter, the onions, tomatoes, bay leaves, salt, and pepper, then enough of the reserved sherry to cover the chicken and all the other ingredients. Cover and cook slowly for about 30 minutes.

Uncover, add more sherry if needed, and cook, uncovered, for another 15 minutes, or until the chicken is done. (This may also be done in a 325° oven.) Add the olives and cook to heat through.

NOTE: This can be cooled and reheated before serving.

 

Moussaka

Moussaka is a delicious combination of eggplant, ground meats, and tomato sauce topped with a creamy white sauce and baked until brown and bubbly. An excellent and inexpensive way to serve crowds, moussaka improves with a day —or even two—of waiting. You can take shortcuts with the tomato sauce by using canned tomato sauce and adding herbs such as dried basil, thyme, and oregano to taste, and simmering with salt and pepper to taste for 10 minutes or so. However, a freshly made tomato sauce makes a difference that can be noted. You may also use margarine in the bechamel and in the meat sauce, but use a good grade. The smaller amount serves 10. You will need at least three large kettles to contain sauces and mixtures for the large amount.

Moussaka

	10	20	30	60
large eggplants	3	6	10	18
salt		(season to taste)
all-purpose flour	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	2½ c
olive oil	1 c	2 c	3½ c	5 c
butter (or margarine)	6 tbs	12 tbs	3½ sticks	1½ lbs
medium onions, finely chopped	3 c	6 c	10 c	20 c
garlic cloves, minced	2	4	6	10
ground beef mixed with	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	7 lbs
very lean ground lamb	1½ lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs	7 lbs
tomato sauce (page 86)	2 c	4 c	6 c	14 c
bay leaves	2	4	6	10
dried oregano	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	8 tbs
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
red wine	2 c	4 c	6½ c	1½ bottles
ground cinnamon	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp
fresh parsley, finely chopped	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs
fresh mushrooms, sliced	10	20	¾ lb	1½ lbs
béchamel sauce (page 86)	1 qt	2 qts	3½ qts	5 qts
Topping
Parmesan cheese, freshly grated	1 c	2 c	2¾ c	4 c

Cut the eggplant into slices and sprinkle with salt. Place the slices in a large kettle and cover with water. Let stand for 30 minutes, then drain, rinse in a large colander, and dry well on paper towels. Sprinkle with flour and brown quickly, turning once, in a skillet [two or more]. Drain again on paper towels.

Heat 4 tablespoons [8 tablespoons, 2 sticks, 1 pound] of butter (or margarine) in a large skillet and cook the onion and garlic until golden. Add the ground meat and cook, stirring, until all the color has changed. Add the tomato sauce, bay leaves, oregano, salt and pepper to taste, wine, cinnamon, and parsley. Mix well and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated.

Sauté the mushrooms in the remaining butter (or margarine) until brown. Add to meat mixture.

Preheat the oven to 350º. Oil a roasting pan [two or more] and layer the eggplant slices with the meat mixture. Pour cooled béchamel over the top and sprinkle with the Parmesan. Bake for 1 hour [if the oven is crowded, 1½ hours], or until the top is golden brown. Let the moussaka stand about 30 minutes before serving, or cool and refrigerate until time to reheat. To reheat any such dense mixture, you should take it out of the refrigerator 2 to 4 hours before heating, to bring it to room temperature. Then heat in a 350º oven until bubbly and heated through—30 to 45 minutes.

Tomato Sauce

	10	20	30	60
medium onions, chopped	1	2	3	7
salad oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	6 tbs	2/3 c
all-purpose flour	2 tsp	4 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs
beef or chicken stock	2 c	4 c	6 c	14 c
tomato paste	2 tbs	½ c	1½ c	3½ c
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
fresh or dried thyme		(season to taste)

Sauté the onions in the oil until golden. Add the flour, then, stirring with a whisk, add the stock and tomato paste. Simmer for 30 minutes, then add the seasonings, and simmer for 1 hour longer. Sieve or put through a food mill.

Béchamel Sauce

	10	20	30	60
butter (or margarine)	⅓ c	½ c	1 c	2 c
all-purpose flour	⅓ c	½ c	1 c	2 c
hot milk	5 c	2½ qts	5 qts	10 qts
egg yolks	6	12	18	30
heavy cream	1 c	1 pt	1 pt and 1½ c	3 pts and 1 c
salt and freshly grated nutmeg		(season to taste)

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in the flour with a whisk. Add the milk and stir hard. When smooth, let simmer slowly for 20 minutes. Cool slightly.

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl, add the cream, and stir. Add a little of the hot sauce to the cream and eggs slowly, beating continuously so as not to scramble the eggs, and then add the contents of the bowl to the sauce in the pan. Stir hard and season to taste. Let cool.

 

Roulades Piquantes

These are beef rolls stuffed with pork and ham and braised in red wine and herbs. They are rather a job for a large crowd—not difficult, only time-consuming!—but they are delicious and make an excellent impression.

	6	12	20	50
ground pork	¾ lb	1½ lbs	2¾ lbs	6 lbs
ground ham	¼ lb	½ lb	¾ lb	2 lbs
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	5 tsp
freshly ground black pepper	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
fresh parsley, finely chopped	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
scallions, finely chopped	½ c	1 c	¾ c	3 c
brisket or chuck, sliced ¼-inch thick	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	15 lbs
olive oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1¼ c
large onions, chopped	2	4	6	12
garlic cloves, minced	4	8	12	20
dry red wine	2 c	4 c	6 c	1½ bottles
beef stock	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	4 c
tomato paste	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	1½ 6-oz cans
freshly ground black pepper	½ tsp	1 tsp	1¾ tsp	3 tsp
ground allspice	¼ tsp	½ tsp	¾ tsp	1¾ tsp
Garnish
parsley	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	3½ c

Combine the ground meats, salt, pepper, parsley (except for the parsley garnish), and the scallions. Mix well with your hands, then set aside.

Place the slices of meat between two sheets of waxed paper. Pound with a mallet or an empty wine bottle so that the slices thin out and expand. Any very large slices may be halved. Spread each slice with the ground meat mixture, making a ¼-inch layer. Roll up and tie with white cotton kitchen string, or secure with a toothpick (both to be removed later). Be sure not to roll too tightly, or the filling will be squeezed out.

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pot. Add the chopped onion and garlic and sauté over low heat until soft but not browned, then add the red wine. Raise the heat and boil to reduce the liquid by about one-third. Stir in the stock, tomato paste, pepper, allspice, and salt to taste. Let the sauce simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, then place the beef rolls, side by side, in it.

Simmer the beef rolls until tender (this may take 1½ hours), then remove to a platter, take out the toothpicks or strings, and return the rolls to the sauce. Reheat slowly and sprinkle with the parsley garnish before serving. The Roulades are very good served with rice and green peas.

NOTE: The beef rolls can be refrigerated after they cool. This dish is better the next day, anyway.

 

Stuffed Cabbage

A Middle-European staple, stuffed cabbage is memorably aromatic and delicious. It is more delicious the day after it is made.

	6	12	20	50
large white cabbages	1	2	4	8
salt pork, chopped	¼ lb	½ lb	¾ lb	2¼ lbs
medium onions, chopped	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	3¼ c
garlic gloves, chopped	1	2	4	9
dried thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
cooked rice*	1 c	2 c	5 c	8 c
ground lean pork	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs	8 lbs
chicken livers	2	4	8 (about ½ lb)	16 (about 1 lb)
eggs	1	2	4	8
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
fresh dill weed, chopped	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	8 tsp
fresh parsley, chopped	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	3 tbs
bacon fat or oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
carrots, peeled and chopped	½ c	1 c	1¾ c	4 c
bay leaves	½	1	2	4
medium onions, finely chopped	½ c	1 c	2 c	5 c
canned Italian plum tomatoes	2 c	4 c	6 c	4 35-oz cans
			(about 2 35-oz cans)
sauerkraut	1 c	2 c	4 c	8 c
Garnish
sour cream

* One cup of raw rice yields three cups of cooked rice.

You will need a piece of cheesecloth doubled to 12 inches by 12 inches.

Pull the tough outer leaves off the cabbage. Remove the tough core. Drop the cabbage into boiling water and let it cook for about 5 minutes, or until the leaves separate easily. Invert the cabbage in a colander to cool and drain.

Cook the chopped salt pork in a skillet until rendered of fat. Remove and discard the solid pieces. Add the chopped onion and garlic and cook until wilted. Add the thyme and rice and stir to blend.

Put the pork in a large bowl, add the rice mixture, and stir lightly. Finely chop the chicken livers and add them to the pork mixture. Mix in the eggs, salt, pepper, dill, and parsley.

Separate the leaves of the cabbage and pat dry, then make a V-shaped cut at the base of each leaf. Rinse out a large square of cheesecloth in cold water, then squeeze dry and place on a flat surface. Place a large leaf in the center of the cloth, curly edge up. Put a smaller leaf in the center of the first leaf and spoon 1 or 2 tablespoons of filling into its center. Bring the four corners of cheesecloth together and twist, shaping the leaves into a compact round. Remove the ball from the cloth and set aside. Repeat until the filling is used up.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Heat the bacon fat in a skillet, add the chopped carrots, bay leaves, and chopped onion, and cook until the onion is wilted. Add the canned tomatoes, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir in the sauerkraut. Scrape this sauce out of the skillet and into a heavy roasting pan.

Arrange the stuffed cabbage in a neat pattern all over the sauerkraut sauce, then cover with aluminum foil. [For large amounts, use heavy-duty foil roaster pans.] Bake for 1 to 1½ hours, or refrigerate and bake before serving the next day. Serve with sour cream.

 

Nasi Goreng

This is a less familiar Indonesian dish than rijstaffel, the twenty- or thirty-dish meal served in Amsterdam and Bali. Like rijstaffel, nasi goreng is essentially rice with garnishes, but it is easier to make.

Sesame oil is available in Chinese and Japanese markets.

	6	12	20	50
chuck steak	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	12 lbs
peanut oil	¾ c	1½ c	2¾ c	5 c
garlic cloves, minced	2	4	7	12
large onions, finely chopped	2	4	7	12
ground coriander	2 tsp	4 tsp	7 tsp	4 tbs
imported curry powder	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1 c
cayenne, to taste, or	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
raw shrimp, peeled and deveined	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	5 lbs
scallions, chopped	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
chicken wings, separated into minidrumsticks and wings	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	12 lbs
soy sauce	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
Orange Rice Pilaf (page 137)
sesame oil	¼ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
cornstarch	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
fresh ginger, finely minced	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c

Garnish

	6	12	20	50
egg pancakes, finely shredded scallion bunches, chopped	½	1	2	5
hard-boiled eggs, quartered or chopped	2	4	6	12

Cut the chuck into thin strips and place in a large mixing bowl. Combine with a little of the peanut oil, the garlic, onion, coriander, curry powder, and cayenne, and mix well. Let stand at least 1 hour.

Combine the chicken, soy sauce, sesame oil, cornstarch, and ginger and let stand 1 hour. (You can be making the egg pancakes below now.)

Put 2 tablespoons [3½ tablespoons, 5 tablespoons, 6 tablespoons] peanut oil in a wok and heat. Add the shrimp and stir-fry very quickly. After 2 minutes, add ½ cup [1 cup, 1¾ cups, 3 cups] chopped scallions. When all the shrimp are pink and curled, remove from the heat and set aside.

Wash out the wok and add 2 more tablespoons peanut oil. Heat the oil and add the beef, using more oil if needed. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes and set aside.

Once more, clean the wok and add the remaining peanut oil. Heat and add the chicken. Cook to brown it, then lower the heat to cook through, about 15 minutes in all.

Place the rice pilaf on a large platter. Garnish decoratively with the beef, chicken, shrimp, egg pancake, and some of the following: additional chopped scallions and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Serve chutney (page 130) and raita (page 131) with the nasi goreng.

Egg Pancakes

	6	12	20	50
eggs	5	10	16	36
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	12 tbs
granulated sugar	1 tsp	2 tsp	3½ tsp	2 tbs
soy sauce	1 tbs	2 tbs	3½ tbs	8 tbs

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Heat a skillet and brush with oil lightly. Pour enough egg mixture to cover bottom of skillet and cook until firm over low heat. Repeat until mixture is used up. They may be stacked and then sliced into thin shreds for a garnish.

 

Green Enchiladas

This is a nice, easy-to-assemble casserole dish, which can be frozen or merely refrigerated for a day or two before heating. If it is cooled and stored, remember to bring it to room temperature before heating in the oven. It is good served with a green salad and fruit. The recipe came to me from Louella Williams, a great Louisiana cook whose specialties are creole.

	6	12	20	50
onions, finely chopped	2	4	7	12
butter	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1½c
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
milk	1 c	2 c	3 c	6 c
		(or more as needed)
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
4-oz cans green chilies, drained and finely chopped	1	2	3	6
35-oz cans tomatoes, drained and finely chopped	1	2	3	6
grated, sharp Cheddar cheese	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs	5 lbs
fresh or frozen tortillas	30	60	100	250
vegetable oil for frying, approximately	2 c	4 c	6 c	4 qts

Sauté the onion slowly in the butter until golden and soft. Add the flour to make a paste, then let cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for about 3 minutes. Add the milk slowly, stirring constantly until the mixture is smooth and thick. Season with salt and pepper, then add the green chilies and tomatoes. Let simmer for 5 minutes, then add the Cheddar cheese and stir well. Set aside.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet to a depth of about 1 inch. Fry the tortillas two or three at a time [use several skillets] until just heated through. Remove with tongs and dip them in the cheese mixture. Roll them up and place side by side in shallow casseroles. Pour the remaining sauce over the tortilla rolls and heat in a 325° oven for about 20 minutes, or until browned and bubbly.

 

Szekely Gulyas

This is an authentic Hungarian recipe that asserts the gourmet character of the best Hungarian cooking. Made from pork and sauerkraut, this goulash is delicious and can convert even the staunchest sauerkraut hater.

	6	12	20	50
boneless pork loin, cut into 1-inch cubes	1 lb	2 lbs	3¾ lbs	8 lbs
rendered pork fat or cooking oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	12 tbs
large onions, thinly sliced	4	8	12	24
sweet Hungarian paprika	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
salt	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	2½ tbs
tomato purée	¼ c	½ c	¾ c	1½ c
garlic cloves, minced	2	4	7	12
caraway seeds	1½ tsp	3 tsp	5 tsp	1½ tbs
chicken stock or stock and white wine mixed	1 c	2 c	3½ c	8 c
1-lb, 13-oz cans sauerkraut, drained and rinsed with cold water	1	2	3½	4
sour cream	1 c	1 pt	2pts less ½ c	4 pts less 1 c

In a large saucepan or skillet, brown the pork cubes in the fat or oil and set aside.

In the same skillet, brown the onions slowly until just golden. Add the pork and sprinkle with the paprika and salt, then add the tomato puree, garlic, and caraway seeds. Stir well, add the broth, and simmer, covered, for about 40 minutes. Add the sauerkraut and cook slowly until the pork is tender, about 30 minutes more.

Remove from the heat, stir in the sour cream, and reheat for 5 minutes. Do not allow the goulash to boil. Serve with small, boiled, parsleyed potatoes and a salad.

 

Hearty Spaghetti Sauce

This sauce is rich and thick. You can adjust the amount of tomatoes to suit your taste, but don’t forget the sugar—it seems to bring out the tomato flavor. This is definitely better when made at least one day ahead.

	6	12	20	50
cooking oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	12 tbs
medium onions, chopped	2	4	7	16
lean, ground beef	1 lb	2 lbs	½ lb	8 lbs
fresh mushrooms, quartered	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	8 lbs
green peppers, seeded and chopped	2	4	7	16
35-oz cans peeled Italian tomatoes, drained and chopped	1	2	4	8
or
28-oz cans thick tomato purée	1	2	4	8
cans of tomato paste	2	4	2	6
	6-oz	6-oz	18-oz and 16-oz	18-oz
garlic cloves (optional)	1	2	4	8
dried basil	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	2⅔tbs
or
fresh basil	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
dried thyme	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
dried oregano	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp
granulated sugar	2 tsp	4 tsp	8 tsp	4 tbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)

Heat the oil in a heavy casserole or large skillet. Cook the onions for about 10 minutes, stirring, until they just begin to brown. Add the ground beef, stirring and breaking up lumps as it browns.

Rinse mushrooms quickly and drain. Remove tough stems of large ones. Quarter. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes; then add all the remaining ingredients and bring to a slow simmer. Simmer, half-covered, for about 1 hour, then taste for seasoning. If the sauce is very thin, continue to simmer, uncovered, until it thickens. Stir frequently.

Serve with plenty of linguine and grated Romano and Parmesan cheese, along with a green salad.

NOTE: This sauce can be served immediately, or it can be kept refrigerated for up to 5 days. It also freezes very well.

 

Pesto

Pesto is a remarkable, inimitable sauce for meats, vegetables, and, most successfully, for pasta. It is a summer mixture, because it depends on fresh basil—although if you are good at growing it indoors, in quantity, you can have it any time. I have never been able to grow enough indoors to have a meal of pesto without completely destroying my crop. Serve it tossed with thin spaghetti as a main dish.

	6	12	20	50
fresh basil, packed	1 c	2 c	4 c	8 c
garlic cloves	4	8	14	30
pignolia nuts	3 oz	6 oz	12 oz	24 oz
olive oil, as needed	1 c	2 c	3½ c	1.5 qts
freshly grated Parmesan cheese	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)

Chop the basil fine, then either pound it together with the garlic and pignolia nuts in a mortar, or place ½ of the olive oil in the blender and then add the basil, garlic, and pignolia nuts and blend until smooth. In either case, add the Parmesan after blending or pounding and then slowly add the rest of the olive oil, as for a mayonnaise, stirring constantly, until the mixture is a thick, smooth sauce. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. [If making pesto in a large quantity, do the blending or pounding in small batches, and mix together at the end.]

If you serve it over pasta, cook 2 pounds [4 pounds, 7 pounds, 14 pounds] of linguine to the al dente stage, drain it well, toss a little olive oil with the pasta to keep it from sticking, and then toss with the pesto. Serve with extra grated cheese, if desired.

 

Chinese Noodles with Meat Sauce

The sauce on these noodles is rich and filling. With this dish you might serve Momos (page 6) and a light pickled vegetable. It is nicest made with fresh Chinese noodles, which you can get from Chinese noodle factories or grocers, but linguine or medium spaghetti will do.

Hoisin sauce is a thick, pasty sauce made from yellow beans, and is sold here in cans in Asian groceries and specialty markets.

Noodles and Sauce

	6	12	20	50
ground pork	1 c	2 c	4 c	4 lbs
dry sherry	1 tsp	2 tsp	4 tsp	2⅔ tbs
scallions, finely chopped	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
hoisin sauce	2 tbs	¼ c	½ c	1 c
soy sauce (Japanese Kikkoman or imported Chinese)	2 tbs	¼ c	½ c	1 c
garlic cloves, minced	3	6	10	20
Chinese noodles	1 lb	2 lbs	4 lbs	8 lbs
peanut oil	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	1 c

Garnishes

	6	12	20	50
medium-sized white radishes, shredded	2	4	8	16
cucumbers, shredded	½	1	2	4–
10-oz package fresh spinach washed, picked over, parboiled in water clinging to leaves, and chopped into shreds	1	2	4	6

Combine the pork with the sherry and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine the scallions, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and garlic and set aside.

Bring a large amount of water to boil in a kettle and add the noodles. If fresh, boil only 5 minutes or less (taste) and drain quickly under cold running water in a colander. If dried, cook to the al dente stage before draining under cold water.

Heat the cooking oil in a deep, heavy skillet or casserole. Add the pork and stir to separate; it should not be in lumps. After the pork has separated, add the scallion mixture and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, or until the sauce is thick.

Just before serving, place the garnishes in small bowls on the table. Pour boiling water over the noodles in the colander and drain well. Place the noodles in a large bowl and make a nest in the center. Pour the sauce into the nest and toss well before serving.

 

Beef Stifatho

There are some nice surprises in this Greek beef stew. The vinegar gives it a pleasant acid taste, the cinnamon and cumin a quite domesticated exotic savor, and the feta, added just at the end so it all but melts, is smooth and creamy.

	6	12	20	50
beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	16 lbs
olive oil	2 tbs	¼ c	½ c	¾ c
large onions, chopped	1	2	5	12
bay leaves	1	2	4	6
dried oregano	pinch	½ tsp	1 tsp	1 tbs
ground cinnamon	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	2 tbs
ground cumin	½ tsp	1 tsp	2 tsp	1½ tbs
		(or to taste)
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
dry, white wine	½ c	1 c	2 c	2 qts
35-ounce cans tomato sauce	1	2	5	10
35-ounce cans Italian tomatoes	1	2	5	10
red wine vinegar	2 tbs	¼ c	½ c	1½ c
small pearl onions, peeled	12	24	40	100
feta cheese, cubed	¼ lb	½ lb	1½ lbs	3 lbs

In a heavy skillet, brown the meat in the olive oil. Add the chopped onion and stir until it is browned, then add the herbs, spices, salt, pepper, and wine and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, tomatoes, and vinegar and simmer, covered, until the meat is almost tender, about 30 minutes. If more liquid is needed, add water. If the Beef Stifatho is to be served at a later time, cool and store at this point.

When ready to serve, cook the small pearl onions in a large kettle of boiling water until almost tender. Heat the stew to bubbling, add the pearl onions, and simmer for 5 minutes, making sure the onions and the meat are tender, then add the feta cheese and simmer very slowly for 5 minutes longer, or until the cheese is hot but not really melted. Serve immediately.

 

Lasagna

This recipe is excellent, in that the whole dish can be assembled as much as a day ahead and baked at the last minute. It is important, however, to bring the lasagna to room temperature before baking to be sure it cooks through.

	6	12	20	50
35-ounce cans tomato purée	1	2	3	5
6-ounce cans tomato paste	1	2	3	4
water	1 c	2 c	3 c	5 c
dried oregano	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	3 tbs
granulated sugar	1 tsp	2 tsp	1 tbs	3 tbs
olive oil	2 tbs	¼ c	6 tbs	1 c
onions, minced	1 c	2½ c	4 c	8 c
garlic cloves, minced	1	2	4	8
ground beef	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	8 lbs
salt		(to taste)
lasagna, green is preferable	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	7 lbs
mozzarella, sliced thin	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	7 lbs
ricotta cheese	1 lb	2 lbs	3 lbs	7 lbs
Romano cheese, grated	¼ c	½ lb	1 lb	2 lbs

Combine the tomato puree, tomato paste, water, oregano, and sugar in a large kettle and simmer over low heat. Meanwhile, sauté the onion and garlic in a heavy skillet until golden, then add the beef and salt to taste and cook, stirring, until the beef is browned and separated. Add to the tomatoes.

Cook the lasagna in a large kettle of boiling water, stirring to see that it does not stick. [In large amounts, best to do it in batches.] As it comes to the al dente stage, drain in a colander, run cold water over it, and toss in a large pot with oil, to keep it from sticking.

Grease a large casserole or large baking pans and layer the lasagna, tomato sauce, ricotta, and mozzarella, with Romano sprinkled on every other layer, and finishing with ricotta and Romano. Bake at 375° for 30 minutes.

NOTE: This can be covered with foil and stored in the refrigerator before baking. Also, larger pans may take more cooking time, depending on the depth of the layers.

 

Carbonnades Flamandes

The distinctive taste of this Belgian beef stew comes from the addition of beer or ale. You should also try the Irish version of it, made with Guinness stout.

	6	12	20	50
lean chuck or rump	3 lbs	6 lbs	10 lbs	24 lbs
cooking oil	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	1 c
medium onions, sliced	1½ lbs	3 lbs	6 lbs	12 lbs
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)
garlic cloves, mashed	4  8	12	24
beef stock or bouillon	1 c  2 c	4 c	8 c
ale or beer	2–3 c	4 c	6 c	4–6
		12-oz cans
brown sugar	2 tbs	¼ c	½ c	1 c
bouquet garni* composed of parsley	2 sprigs	4 sprigs	7 sprigs	½ bunch
bay leaves	1  2	3  6
dried thyme	1 tsp	2 tsp	3 tsp	2 tbs
or
fresh thyme	2 sprigs	4 sprigs	7 sprigs	15 sprigs
cornstarch mixed with	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs	1 c
wine vinegar	2 tbs	4 tbs	8 tbs	1 c

*Tie the three herbs in a small square of cheesecloth.

Garnish

parsley

6 sprigs

12 sprigs

1 bunch

2 bunches

Preheat the oven to 325°.

Cut the beef into 4 × ½ × 2-inch strips. Pat the strips dry, then heat the oil in a skillet and brown the beef quickly, a few strips at a time. Place the strips in a bowl as they are done.

When all the beef is browned, reduce the heat under the skillet, add the onions, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the garlic.

Sprinkle the beef with salt and pepper, then layer it in the casserole with the onions.

Heat the stock in the skillet, scraping up the pan juices and add to the meat. Add just enough beer or ale to cover, then stir in the brown sugar and bouquet garni. Bring the casserole to a simmer on top of the stove, then cover and place in the oven. Keep the casserole simmering for 1½ to 3 hours [large casseroles may take longer] or until the meat is tender.

Remove the bouquet garni and discard. Drain the liquid out of the casserole and skim the fat off it. Beat the cornstarch and vinegar mixture into the liquid, and simmer for 4 minutes or so in a saucepan. Taste, correct the seasonings, then pour the sauce back over the meat. (If it doesn’t seem thick enough, add more cornstarch mixed with water and simmer again). Set aside until ready to serve, then heat through for 5 minutes or so.

Serve with noodles or boiled potatoes, and garnish with parsley.

 

Dirty Rice

This is a fine, inexpensive way to serve a lot of people. I received this recipe from Gladys Glaude of Carencro, Louisiana, who patiently explained her ways with spices and gumbos, crayfish and dumplings. Mrs. Glaude and her sister Louella Williams are well-known Louisiana cooks. Louella Williams shared many recipes with me, including Green Enchiladas (page 95).

I don’t know why this rice is “dirty”: it seems that it has always had that name, over a wide area of the South. It does have a motley appearance.

	6	12	20	50
olive oil	5 tbs	½ c	1 c	2½ c
all-purpose flour	2 tbs	4 tbs	½ c	1 c
beef stock or bouillon	3 c	6 c	2¼ qts	4 qts less 1 cup
large onions, finely chopped	1	2	4	10
celery stalks, diced small	1	2	4	10
large green peppers, diced	1	2	4	10
garlic cloves, minced	4	8	12	24
Tabasco		(season to taste)
lean beef ground with	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	5½ lbs
beef liver	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	5½ lbs
raw, long-grain	2–3 c	4–5 c	8–9 c	10–12 c
converted rice		(or 2–2½ lbs)	(or 4–4½ lbs)	(or 5–6 lbs)
4-oz jars pimientos, drained and diced	½	1	2	4
salt and freshly ground black pepper		(season to taste)

In a heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons [6 tablespoons, ½ cup, ¾ cup] of the olive oil and add the flour, stirring well. Let cook, stirring, until well browned. Add the beef stock or bouillon and stir well while you bring the mixture to a boil. Let the roux simmer over a low flame for 20 minutes or so.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large kettle. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper and sauté over medium heat, stirring, until tender and the onion is golden. Add the minced garlic, Tabasco, and beef and liver.

Stirring well to separate the meat, sauté until the meat turns color. Add the roux mixture from the skillet and cook for 15 minutes over low heat, then add the rice and cover. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes, then uncover and add water if the liquid has been absorbed. Cook another 10 minutes, then toss the mixture lightly with the diced pimiento and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Dirty Rice is good with corn on the cob and a green salad.

 

Cocido Valenciana

This is a Spanish version of a boiled dinner, superior, in my view, to the New England variety. It is the recipe of Vicente de Crespo of Denia, Spain, and was given to me by Trin Yarborough. The bright yellow coloring and rough chunks of vegetables and meats inspire a hearty appetite. Serve it with rice and a big, garlicky salad.

	6	12	20	50
stewing beef, such as chuck	2 lbs	4 lbs	7 lbs	12 lbs
olive oil	3 tbs	6 tbs	10 tbs	1¼ c
cow knee bone, or other marrow bones	1–2 lbs	2–4 lbs	3–5 lbs	6–10 lbs
small turnips, peeled and halved	6	12	20	45
carrots, scraped and quartered	4	8	12	30
parsnips, peeled and chunked	3	6	10	24
saffron	¼ tsp	½ tsp	1 tsp	2¼ tsp
or
turmeric	2 tsp	4 tsp	1½ tbs	5 tbs
or
achiote seeds	1 tbs	2 tbs	3 tbs	4½ tbs
medium potatoes, peeled and chunked	4	8	12	30
20-oz cans cooked chick-peas	1	2	36
heads of white cabbage, chunked	½	1	2½	5
salt		(season to taste)
freshly ground pepper		(season to taste)

If you use the achiote (available in Spanish markets), heat the seeds in the olive oil until it is a bright yellow and then discard the seeds.

Cut the stew meat into rough chunks and brown it in the olive oil in a heavy skillet. Add water just to cover. [If making a large amount, place the meat in a large casserole before adding the water.] Add the turnips, carrots, and saffron or turmeric (if you have not used the achiote method for coloring). Add salt to taste, then bring the stew to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

Then add the rest of the vegetables, cut in large chunks, and cook for about 20 more minutes, until all are tender. Season to taste.

NOTE: The broth may be served separately as a soup, with garlic croutons in it.

 

Pavo Estofado

A “smothered turkey” can be a fine, exotic change from the usual stuffed and roasted bird. You can make all kinds of substitutions for the ingredients—raisins for the prunes, small, pickled green peppers for the olives, and so on—or you can leave out any of the above. This Caribbean dish is quite a hearty one.

To facilitate peeling the onions and the garlic, drop them in boiling water for 10 seconds and drain them in a colander.

	6	12	20	50
garlic	6 cloves plus 1 head	12 cloves plus 2 heads	4 heads	7 heads
peppercorns	12	24	32	45
oregano	5 tsp	3 tbs	5 tbs	8 tbs
salt	3 tbs	6 tbs	9 tbs	1 c
vinegar	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	¾ c
8- to 10-pound turkeys, cut into pieces	1	2	4	6–7
dry prunes, pitted	12	24	40	2–3 12-oz boxes
small onions, peeled	1 lb	2 lbs	3½ lbs	7 lbs
bay leaves	4	8	12	24
green olives	12	24	40	50
capers	2 tbs	4 tbs	7 tbs	2 medium bottles
liquid from capers	1 tbs	2 tbs	4 tbs	9 tbs
dry, red wine	½ c	1 c	2 c	4 c
granulated sugar	¾ c	1½ c	2½ c	4 c

Combine the 6 cloves [12 cloves, 1 head, 2 heads] garlic, peppercorns, oregano, salt, and vinegar in the blender, or grind in a mortar and pestle. Put the turkey pieces in a large kettle and rub well with the blended ingredients. Refrigerate overnight.

The next day add all the other ingredients, including the rest of the garlic, except for the wine and sugar and cook over high heat for 10 minutes, to bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to moderate and cook for 2 hours.

Add the wine and sugar and reduce the heat to very low. Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes to 1 hour more, or until the turkey is tender.