Chapter 28

The Lower Roanoke River

Exploring the Secrets of Bottomland Swamps

MELISSA DOWLAND

SCIENTIFIC FIELDS OF STUDY: Wetlands Ecology, Ornithology, Herpetology, Fish Hatchery Management

The swamps of eastern North Carolina have a lot of history. They have been the scenes of Revolutionary and Civil War battles, as well as hideouts for escaped slaves. For some people, the term “swamp” might evoke images of creepy darkness, strange animals, and whining mosquitoes. European settlers called them “dismals” because attempts to travel west from the coast through swamp habitats often seemed dangerous or physically impossible. In contrast, many early inhabitants of eastern North Carolina, such as Native Americans and African Americans, relied on swamps to provide food, water, and shelter. Today, many of these important ecosystems have been compromised by drainage, clearing, and farming. Swamps are often poorly understood by those who have never visited, but if you spend a little time paddling a canoe or kayak along the Roanoke River in eastern North Carolina, one of the east coast’s largest remaining swamps, you just might find that a swamp is much more than you expected.

The Roanoke River is one of the largest rivers in North Carolina, flowing from the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Carolina and Virginia all the way to the Albemarle Sound at the coast. In some places in the flatlands of eastern North Carolina, the river’s floodplain is more than 5 miles (8 kilometers) wide. It is because of the river’s potential for catastrophic flooding that it was once known as the “river of death” to Native Americans and early settlers. Even up to the mid-1900s, flooding remained a huge problem for landowners. In 1940, 10–15 inches (25–38 centimeters) of rain fell in two days and inundated towns, homes, and farmland in eastern North Carolina. The river rose 42 feet (~13 meters)—that’s about the height of a four-story building. The flood spurred the Army Corps of Engineers to construct a dam on the Roanoke River that was completed in 1953, creating Kerr Lake. The lower Roanoke River Basin is not quite the “river of death” that it once was, but it is still a wild place, and much of it has been preserved to provide habitat for a variety of interesting species.

Figure 28-1. The beautiful Roanoke River in eastern North Carolina. Photo by Melissa Dowland.

Figure 28-2. A barred owl is a swamp resident that lives here. Photo by Melissa Dowland.

Wildlife

The Roanoke River is a great place to study the amazing diversity of birds that call North Carolina home. Two species of interest here are barred owls (Strix varia) that are year-round swamp residents and prothonotary warblers (Protonotaria citria), migrants that spend winters in tropical climates.

Most owls are nocturnal and can be difficult to find, but barred owls can often be seen and heard as they hunt and call during the day. The term “barred” refers to their striped feather pattern that helps them blend into their surroundings. Their call is very distinctive and follows the rhythm of the phrase “Who cooks for you, who cooks for you all.” Try to mimic their call with your voice, and if you are very good, one might come to check you out. Spotting a barred owl in the swamp is challenging, but the best place to look is between 15 and 40 feet off the ground, where they often perch on tree limbs while searching for a meal. A favorite meal for barred owls is crayfish, but they also enjoy frogs, toads, and snakes, as well as small mammals. Sometimes, especially at night, pairs of owls can get quite rowdy. When they do, most people think they sound more like a troop of monkeys than a pair of birds.

Prothonotary warblers typically arrive from their Central and South American wintering grounds in mid-April to begin setting up nesting territories. Warblers are a group of small songbirds, many of which have bright yellow in their plumage, or feathers. Often called “swamp canaries,” both male and female prothonotaries have bright golden yellow on their heads (males are brighter), necks, and bellies, with olive to gray coloration on their backs and wings. They are one of only a few warblers that nest in tree cavities. Males spend time defending their territory by singing a loud “sweet, sweet, sweet, sweet, sweet, sweet” from low perches and chasing one another around. Insects are a favorite food of prothonotaries, and you may even have the opportunity to watch one snacking on a newly emerged dragonfly. Dragonflies spend their younger years as aquatic nymphs, which are juveniles, living in the water. When they are ready to transform into an adult dragonfly in the process called metamorphosis, they crawl up on the bases of trees and grasses, split open along their back, and emerge from their nymph exoskeleton. Their wings are damp when they first emerge, so they wait for them to dry and harden before they can fly. During this time, they are vulnerable to hungry prothonotary warblers that snag them in their beaks and beat them around to knock off their still-damp wings before gulping them down. Sometimes a prothonotary will carry a dragonfly snack back to a tree cavity, most likely to feed a female warbler sitting on eggs or a group of 3 to 7 hungry babies.

Figure 28-3. Prothonotary warbler male sitting in a tree cavity. Photo by Melissa Dowland.

Other creatures that you are likely to encounter in warmer months along the Roanoke River are reptiles. Because they are exothermic, or cold-blooded, meaning they do not possess a cooling or heating system like mammals, they need to sit in the sun on logs and in bushes along the river to warm their bodies. The most common species of snakes are the brown watersnake (Nerodia taxispilota), the red-bellied watersnake (Nerodia erythrogaster), and the banded watersnake (Nerodia fasciata). There are also venomous cottonmouth snakes (Agkistrodon piscivorus) in the area, so it is best to observe them with binoculars from a safe distance. When swimming, cottonmouths tend to ride high in the water, exposing much of their bodies above the surface. Other water snakes swim with more of their bodies below the water line. One of the most common turtle species you will see is the well-named yellow-bellied slider (Trachemys scripta scripta). As you paddle up to them, they slide right off their log into the water. Painted turtles (Chrysemys picta) are also common and are more likely to let you get a closer look. Turtles have specialized scales called “scutes” on their shells; a painted turtle has cream-colored lines between its scutes and red markings along the edge of its shell.

Anadromous Fish

The Roanoke River is home to several species of anadromous fish. “Anadromous” means that they spend most of their lives in salt water but swim up into freshwater rivers to spawn, or lay eggs. In the 1800s, millions of herring, shad, and striped bass migrated from as far away as the Bay of Fundy in Canada and swam up the Roanoke River to spawn in the fast-flowing upstream waters. Unfortunately, a combination of factors has led to the decline of anadromous fishes in the Roanoke and other eastern rivers: overfishing in the rivers and sounds, water pollution, and the construction of dams that prevent fish from reaching some of their upstream spawning grounds.

Dams also changed the rate of water flowing through the river. Before the dams were constructed, the river would flow high and fast after storms, particularly in the early spring when anadromous fish arrived for spawning. As the river flooded its banks, nutrient-rich soils were deposited on the floodplain. During dryer periods the river would recede, allowing vegetation to grow in the fertile soils left behind. While the construction of dams benefited humans by limiting flooding and providing hydroelectric power, it negatively impacted habitat for some plants and animals by changing normal flow patterns and preventing rivers from naturally replenishing the land. Fortunately, scientists and resource managers are working with dam officials to release more water in the spring when fish are spawning, to more closely mimic natural conditions. Look for water marks or rings of debris on tree trunks and low-hanging branches, as well as bunches of twigs and leaves stuck in low tree branches, as evidence of higher water levels and changes in water levels over time.

Biologists and resource managers have also created programs to help fish like American shad (Alosa sapidissima) more directly. In the spring, fisheries biologists transfer broodstock from the Roanoke River to the National Fish Hatchery in Edenton, North Carolina. Broodstock are adult fish that are ready to breed. The hatchery is well worth a visit to learn more about North Carolina’s fish. At the hatchery, the fish are placed in large tanks. At night, with the right water temperatures, the female fish disperse their eggs into the water, while the male fish broadcast milt, or sperm, to fertilize the eggs. The fertilized eggs are collected and transferred to egg-hatching jars, where the eggs are bubbled with air hoses for oxygen—an environment similar to what they would encounter at the bottom of a river. When they hatch, the tiny juvenile fish, also called fry, are cared for until they are 0.4–0.8 inches (1.0–2.0 centimeters) in length. Then the biologists load them into a tank on a truck and take them to the Roanoke River near Weldon, North Carolina, for release. From there, the fry begin their harrowing journey to the sea, eating tiny plankton along the way and trying to avoid predation by larger fish. American shad will make their way as far north as the Bay of Fundy in Canada before returning to the Roanoke River after about five years to lay eggs of their own. If you want to see some of these fish for yourself, get a fishing license and take a fishing rod with you on your paddle, or ask local fishermen. They are usually happy to show interested spectators what they are catching.

Bottomland Hardwood Forest

The incredible diversity of wildlife along the Roanoke River is mostly due to the extensive bottomland forest habitat. Smaller creeks along the river are some of the best places to see the two dominant tree species in these swamps: water tupelo (Nyssa aquatica) and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum).

As mentioned in Chapter 21, “Merchant’s Millpond,” water tupelos have swollen bases and large leaves and produce a 1.0-inch (2.5-centimeter) purple fruit called a drupe. But many water tupelos also have strange shapes and swellings due to the growth of mistletoe. Mistletoe is the common name for a number of different semiparasitic plants in the order Santalales. A parasite is an organism that lives off of another organism, known as the host; the parasite benefits while the host is harmed. Mistletoe is considered semiparasitic because it does provide some food for itself through photosynthesis, like other plants; but it also requires help from its host tree, which is harmed over time. Mistletoe tends to rob its host tree of both water and nutrients. Because it is evergreen, mistletoe is easiest to see in the winter when the trees have lost their leaves. Mistletoe produces white berries that appear to be a crucial food source for birds. Mistletoe also depends on birds to spread its seeds: the sticky pulp of the berries allows them to hang on to the beaks and feathers of birds and can even remain intact after passing through a bird’s digestive tract, which transfers the seeds to new sites for germination, when the seeds sprout.

There are fewer bald cypress trees along the lower Roanoke than there once were. Many of them have been logged for their high-quality, pest-resistant wood, but there are still some large cypress trees standing along creeks. You know you are in an area with bald cypress trees when you look out and see knobby wooden “knees” rising from the water. Bald cypress trees are also a common host for bagworms (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis), which are moth caterpillars that form a bag out of needles and twigs to provide shelter for both the caterpillar and pupa stages. Their bags are oblong and often attached to twigs with silk. For more information about bald cypress trees, refer again to Chapter 21, “Merchant’s Millpond.”

Many cypress and other trees along the river are hung with gray, stringy Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides). Spanish moss is an epiphyte, which means that it grows harmlessly on another plant or surface above the ground. Surprisingly, Spanish moss is more closely related to pineapples than to moss. Although Spanish moss is usually gray-colored, if you get it wet, the scales along the tendrils will pull away to reveal the green photosynthetic tissue underneath. Spanish moss has been used by humans for woven skirts, braided rope, floral arrangements, and even bed-stuffing; however, it is also quite useful to wildlife. Many birds, like the prothonotary warbler, will use it in their nests. In fact, one tiny warbler, the northern parula (Setophaga americana), makes its nest in clumps of Spanish moss. Keep your eyes open on a springtime paddle. If you see a small bird with a buzzy call and a yellow breast fly into a thick clump of Spanish moss, it is likely a nesting northern parula.

Figure 28-4. A nesting northern parula. Photo by Melissa Dowland.

Before You Go

Note that for the Roanoke River this section is much more detailed than in other chapters because planning this adventure will require more resources. Please plan carefully and use the contacts listed for any questions you may have.

Visiting the Roanoke River

The best way to see the bottomland swamps along the Roanoke River is by canoe or kayak. And if you are looking for a little adventure, you can spend the night on a camping platform managed by Roanoke River Partners. Below are a few suggestions for paddle trips.

Figure 28-5. A camping platform for paddlers along the river. Platforms are managed by Roanoke River Partners. Photo by Melissa Dowland.

Map 6. Mapped locations along the Roanoke River for your explorations. Map by Ashleigh M. Smith.

Resources for Planning Your Trip

Roanoke River Partners, www.roanokeriverpartners.org, can provide paddling information, maps of the river, reservations for camping platforms, and urls to additional resources.

Use Map 6 to get a visual for your trips. Take a look on Google Maps for more details.

Gardner Creek to Jamesville (~9.0 miles [14.5 kilometers]; 4.5 hours)

Paddle out-and-back along Gardner Creek, or all the way through to Jamesville with a shuttle back to your starting point. The put-in is the Gardner Creek Access at 24245 US-64 W near Jamesville. There are no facilities available, but you can park your car while you paddle. Because it is adjacent to a private residence, please be courteous, and check with Roanoke River Partners, www.roanokeriverpartners.org or (252) 792-3790, before you go to make sure it is still open to access.

The beginning of the paddle is about 4.0 miles (6.4 kilometers) along beautiful blackwater Gardner Creek. If that’s enough for you, you can turn around and head back the way you came—the flow in the creek isn’t very strong, and it’s easy to paddle upstream. If you want to continue on from Gardner Creek, turn right (downstream) at mile 3.7 (kilometer 5.6) when you reach Devil’s Gut, a channel that cuts off a large meander of the Roanoke River. You will notice a change in the color of the water from black to brown. The creek water is black because of tannins, or organic acids, that have leached out of decaying plants and peat soils in the region. The water here is also not very turbid, meaning the water is not churning up sediment. The river water is brown because, in addition to tannins, it also carries sediment that was eroded from the mountains and hills upstream. The paddle along Devil’s Gut is about 3.0 miles (4.8 kilometers), but you can also explore two additional creeks along the way: Upper and Lower Deadwater Creeks. The first, Upper Deadwater, is a shorter side trip. As the creeks narrow upstream, look for Roanoke River Partners camping platforms: Beaver Tail and Lodge platforms are on Upper Deadwater Creek, while Barred Owl Roost is on Lower Deadwater Creek. These platforms are a great option for an overnight stay. You can reserve them on the Roanoke River Partners website.

The take-out in Jamesville is at the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission Astoria boat ramp (http://ncpaws.org/wrcmapbook/baa.aspx). This boat ramp has a large parking area and a pit toilet.

Trip distances:

• Gardner Creek to Devil’s Gut: 3.7 miles (5.8 kilometers)

• Gardner Creek/Devil’s Gut juncture to the end of Devil’s Gut at the Roanoke River: 3.0 miles (4.8 kilometers)

• End of Devil’s Gut to Astoria boat ramp: less than 1.0 mile (1.6 kilometers)

Conaby Creek Out-and-Back (~8.0 miles [13 kilometers] round-trip; 4 hours)

Conaby Creek is larger than Gardner Creek and flows into the Roanoke River near its mouth at the Albemarle Sound. The put-in and take-out for this paddle are the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission Conaby Creek boat ramp (http://ncpaws.org/wrcmapbook/baa.aspx). You can paddle a short distance and turn around or go all the way to the Royal Fern platform (about 4.0 miles [6.4 kilometers]). Conaby Creek starts fairly narrow but widens downstream. Royal Fern platform is about 1.0 mile (1.6 kilometers) up a small creek that leaves from the right side of Conaby Creek after about 3.0 miles (4.8 kilometers). Royal Fern is a great place for an overnight camping trip. You can reserve it on Roanoke River Partners website as well.

Outfitters and Guides

If you do not have your own boat, these outfitters can provide everything you need to help you plan your trip:

• Roanoke Outdoor Adventures, www.roanokeoutdooradventures.com: Heber Coltrain was born and raised in the area and knows it very well. He provides canoe and kayak rentals, guide services, and shuttles.

• Frog Hollow Outdoors, www.froghollowoutdoors.com: Based in Durham, Frog Hollow offers guided camping trips to the platforms along the Roanoke River.

When to Go

The best time of year to visit the swamps along the lower Roanoke River is between late fall (after mid-October) and early spring (before mid-May). Spring is best for migrating songbirds like the prothonotary warbler. Mosquitoes tend to be more numerous in the late spring and summer months.

What to Bring

For a day paddle, you should have

• Food and plenty of drinking water

• Sturdy sandals or water shoes, quick-dry clothing, hat

• Sunscreen and insect repellent

• Binoculars and camera in a dry bag or Ziploc

• Personal floatation device (provided if you rent a boat).

For an overnight trip, you’ll also need

• Tent with a rainfly

• Sleeping bag and pad

• Portable toilet (some outfitters will provide this; there are no facilities on the camping platforms)

• Flashlight or headlamp

• Camp stove, if you plan to cook (you cannot have a campfire on the platforms)

• Lots of drinking water

• Pots, dishes, biodegradable soap if you plan to do dishes

• Long sleeves and long pants for cool nights and insect protection.

Land-Based Options

If you’re not a paddler, there are a few locations where you can take a short walk to explore the bottomland swamp habitat:

• The town of Windsor, North Carolina (http://www.windsorbertiechamber.com/16.html), has a wetland boardwalk trail through a bottomland swamp and out to the Cashie (kuh-SHY) River, a blackwater river that enters the Albemarle Sound adjacent to the Roanoke. It’s a great place to observe some of the common swamp tree species, including bald cypress and water tupelo, and maybe even see a barred owl. Just down the road, the Partnerships for the Sounds (http://www.partnershipforthesounds.net) manages the Roanoke-Cashie River Center with exhibits about the river, inexpensive kayak and canoe rentals, and regularly scheduled free pontoon boat tours.

• The North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission boat ramp in Williamston, North Carolina (http://ncpaws.org/wrcmapbook/baa.aspx) has a short boardwalk along the Roanoke River.

• The Edenton National Fish Hatchery (https://www.fws.gov/edenton) raises striped bass, blueback herring, and American shad to help their populations recover in the Roanoke River. It has a small aquarium where you can see many of the common fish species in North Carolina. You can see the ponds where fish are raised and take a walk on a short boardwalk to Pembroke Creek. While not part of the Roanoke River system, Pembroke Creek is a great location to explore a blackwater swamp.

References and Resources

Powell, William S. Encyclopedia of North Carolina. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2006.

Wilson, Anthony. Shadow or Shelter: The Swamp in Southern Culture. Jackson: University Press of Mississippi, 2006.

Website: See urls above.

Contact: See contacts above for your specific needs.

Address: Addresses are provided above (or information to acquire addresses), depending on the location to be explored.

GPS COORDINATES:

Paddling put-in at Gardner Creek: N 35°48.72, W 76°55.98

Paddling put-in at Conaby Creek: N 35°53.6, W 76°42.25

Windsor’s Cashie River boardwalk: N 35°59.58, W 75°56.58

Edenton’s National Fish Hatchery Aquarium: N 35°3.48, W 75°38.34