BROWN BUTTER AND SAFFRON WHOLE WHEAT PUMPKIN CUSTARD CAKE

Custard cake is like pulling a rabbit out of a top hat—magic! Once baked, the cake separates into a light, pumpkin cake bottom and pumpkin custard top. Browning the butter beforehand adds a metaphorical layer of deep, nutty flavor. Finally, deeply orange saffron threads lend an earthy, Moroccan flare. A dollop of yogurt and sprinkle of slivered almonds or pistachios on top is how I like to serve this—a cup of mint tea doesn’t hurt, either.

Serves 9

½ cup unsalted butter

1 cup whole milk or unsweetened plain soy milk

1 cup pumpkin purée

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

4 eggs, separated

⅔ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon saffron

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

plain yogurt, for serving (optional)

slivered almonds or chopped pistachios, for serving (optional)

Preheat oven to 325ºF. Line an 8 x 8– or 9 x 9–inch square pan with parchment paper, leaving some overhang.

In a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Continue to cook over medium heat until light brown and nutty (2 to 3 minutes). Immediately transfer to a bowl (including brown bits). Set aside to cool slightly. Add brown butter to a large bowl or measuring cup with a pouring spout and whisk in milk, pumpkin, and vanilla.

In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, whip egg whites until firm peaks form. Transfer to a clean bowl. Add egg yolks, sugar, baking soda, saffron, and salt to the stand mixer or the large bowl the egg whites were in (no need to clean). Beat until pale yellow and thick. To egg yolks, slowly beat in brown butter and pumpkin mixture. Add flour and beat on low until combined; scrape down sides, and briefly beat again until fully incorporated. Remove bowl from stand mixer, if using.

With a large rubber spatula by hand, fold in half of reserved egg whites. Fold in remaining half until fully incorporated. Pour into prepared pan and smooth out top. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until cake is puffed and still slightly wobbly in the center. Cool completely in pan on a wire rack. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before loosening edges and removing cake from pan using parchment overhang. Slice into squares or rectangles and serve chilled with a dollop of yogurt and sprinkle of nuts, if using.