A–Z Travel Tips
A
Accommodation
Accommodation for visitors to Poland has improved greatly in recent years, with hotels offering modern facilities, often in beautiful old buildings. However, especially at the mid- to lower-range, choices can be limited. Hotels in Poland are unofficially graded from one to five stars, and those rating three to five are of comparable international standard. Warsaw, Kraków and other larger cities have an increasing number of top-flight, five-star hotels targeting business travellers and upmarket tourists. Several familiar international hotel brand names can be found, although home-grown independent enterprises are often more characterful.
If all the higher grade hotels are full, or beyond your budget, the best option can be to stay slightly out of town in a pension or guesthouse hotel. Other options are accommodation in private homes or a self-catering apartment. There are also more than 200 registered campsites and a network of youth hostels in the major cities. Hostels can be an excellent choice for anyone wanting simple accommodation, as some are centrally situated, eg, in Kraków, and offer one or two private rooms as well as the more usual shared accommodation in larger dormitory rooms.
It is essential to book ahead during peak season (May to October). Tourism Information Offices (including those at airports) will provide lists of accommodation.
Room prices, which should be posted at the reception desk, usually include VAT and often but not always include breakfast. Outside of the most expensive hotels, prices are generally lower than those in other European countries. Confusingly, hotels may list their prices in US dollars, euros or Polish złoty, though payment is always in złoty.
Do you have a room? Czy są wolne pokoje?
How much is it? Ile kosztuje?
single pojedynczy pokój
double podwójny pokój
without bath/with bath bez łazienki/z łazienką
expensive drogi
Airports (lotnisko)
Warsaw: International flights arrive and depart from the very modern and recently extended Warsaw Chopin Airport (ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1; www.lotnisko-chopina.pl), formerly known as Okęcie Airport, southwest of the capital. There are car-hire agencies, left luggage facilities, money exchange desks, cash machines, travel agents, a restaurant and a tourist information office as well as hotels. It takes about 30 minutes to get from the airport to the centre of Warsaw. A taxi should cost no more than 40 zł (at night) depending on which one you choose. Some of the taxis waiting out front may look official, but are not and will charge exorbitant prices, so be careful. Avoid taxi drivers offering their services inside the terminal.
If you need to take a taxi, call for one at the information desk: Ele Sky Taxi (tel: 022 811 1111), Sawa Taxi (tel: 022 644 4444) or Super Taxi (tel: 022 196-22/196-61). Three buses run daily from 5am–11pm from the airport (watch out for pickpockets). The 175 stops at the Dworzec Centralny main train station, while the 148 goes to Praga, and the 188 passes Metro Politechnika in the city centre. Bus 331 (Mon–Fri until 6pm) passes Metro Wilanowska and the N32 night bus gets you to the Dw. Centralny train station when the other buses have finished for the night.
Trains operated by the Szybka Kolej Miejska (Fast Urban Railway or SKM; www.skm.warszawa.pl) and Koleje Mazowieckie (Mazovian Railways) leave every 15 minutes from the underground station adjacent to the airport terminal. Line S2 goes to Warszawa Śródmieście (in the centre of the city) while S3 to the Warszawa Wschodnia railway terminal across the Vistula river. Koleje Mazowieckie offer connections to Modlin airport (a shuttle bus operates between the terminal and the railway station).
Modlin airport (WMI; ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki; tel: 022 346 4000; www.modlinairport.pl) is situated about 40 km north of Warsaw. It’s a relatively new modern hub for low-cost carriers including Ryanair and Wizzair. Koleje Mazowieckie (www.mazowieckie.com.pl) and Modlin shuttle bus (www.modlinbus.pl) operate regular services between the city centre and the airport. Check their respective websites for details.
Kraków: John Paul II International Airport (KRK; Balice, ul. Kapitana Medweckiego 1, Balice; tel: 801 055 000; www.krakowairport.pl), is 18km west of town. The fastest way to get there is by the Koleje Małopolskie (http://malopolskiekoleje.pl) train which runs from the city’s central train station every half an hour between 4am–11.30pm. The journey takes only 17 minutes. Alternatively, buses 292, 902 and 208 take slower roundabout routes through the suburbs to the Old Town and the train station. Tickets can be bought from the driver (you need to have the exact change) and vending machines. An official Kraków Airport Taxi service (www.krktaxi.pl) offers fixed-rate services based on distance covered.
Gdańsk: With flights arriving from all over Europe, Gdańsk Lech Wałęsa Airport (GDN; ul Slowackiego 200, Rębiechowo; tel: 048 525 673 531; www.airport.gdansk.pl) is the third most important airport in the country, and serves not only the Tri-city area but travellers from Toruń and Szczecin, too. Fast growing in popularity, it is about 10km (6 miles) and 20 minutes’ drive west of the city centre. A new terminal is linked with the city centre by the PKM trains that run about every 15 minutes, mostly to Gdańsk-Wrzeszcz station (some continue to the city’s main station or even to Gdynia). The railway station is just outside the terminal and can be reached through the footbridge. Tickets are available from SKM, ZKM vending machines and on the train (cash only). Public buses operating to/from the airport include no. 110 to Gdańsk-Wrzeszcz railway station, no. 210 & N3 (nightbus) to Gdańsk Główny – the city’s main railway station – and no.122 that runs to Sopot. The Neptun Taxi rank (tel: 196 86) is outside the main terminal entrance. The journey should cost about 50zł to 70zł, but make sure you agree a price before setting off.
B
Budgeting for Your Trip
Though prices have risen in the past few years, mainly because of the złoty’s relative strength against other currencies, Poland remains one of the most inexpensive European countries to visit for tourists from Western Europe and North America. Still, visitors expecting the dirt-cheap Central Europe of the recent past may be in for a bit of a surprise. Four- and five-star hotels in Warsaw and Kraków are now nearly as costly as those in Western Europe. However, many facets of daily life remain true bargains for visitors: the highly efficient public transport system, restaurants and cafés, and museums and concert performances.
Transport to Poland. For most Europeans, Warsaw or Kraków is a short, fairly inexpensive flight or train ride away. The fast-changing market for air travel with rising taxes and fuel surcharges makes it more important than ever to shop around for your ticket. A growing number of budget carriers also offer very competitive prices.
Accommodation. Room rates in top hotels are close if not equal to what you might expect to find in other European capital cities. The approximate price of a double room in high season, in central Warsaw or Kraków: 5-star hotel 500–1,000 zł (US$130–250); 3- to 4-star hotel 400–500 zł (US$100–125); 2-star hotel or pension 250–400 zł (US$65–100).
Meals and drinks. Dining out in Poland remains a bargain except at the most upmarket and famous restaurants. A three-course meal for two people, with wine and service, in a moderately priced restaurant can cost about 120 zł (US$30); at an expensive restaurant, twice that or more.
Local transport. Public transport is inexpensive whether bus, Metro (subway) or tram (4.40 zł). Only taxis are relatively expensive (especially if you wind up in an unofficial taxi). Opt for public transport except in rare instances (after-hours), and always call for a taxi rather than hail one on the street.
Incidentals. Museum admission: around 15–25 zł. Entertainment: theatre, musicals and classical music concerts generally start from 50 zł.
C
Car Hire
Hiring a car in Poland isn’t a great idea unless you intend to explore the countryside in considerable depth. Car hire is expensive: daily rates in US$, including unlimited mileage, range from $100 a day for an economy-size car, including CDW insurance. At press time, petrol (gas) cost 5zł per litre. Arrangements and conditions for car hire are similar to those in other countries. The minimum age requirement is 21 and you must have been in possession of a valid licence for at least one year. US and Canadian licences are accepted as are international driving licences.
Ask if CDW insurance is included in the price. There are a few local agencies, which tend to be cheaper (though they may not speak English), in addition to the major international agencies, including: Avis (Warsaw, tel: 022 572 6565; Kraków, tel: 012 629 61 08/09; www.avis.pl), Budget (Warsaw, tel: 022 650 4062; www.budget.com.pl), Europcar (Warsaw, tel: 022 650 2564; Kraków, tel: 012 258 12 86; www.europcar.com.pl), Hertz (Warsaw, tel: 022 650 28 96; Kraków, tel: 012 285 50 84; www.hertz.com.pl), and Sixt (Warsaw, tel: 022 650 20 32; Kraków, tel: 012 639 3216).
Climate
All of Poland is very cold in winter, and warm but comfortable in summer (it can sometimes be very hot). The best weather (and time to visit) is from May to early June and September to October. Temperatures in the highlands around Zakopane are very cold in winter.
Clothing
Poles in the big cities – especially Warsaw and Kraków – tend to be style-conscious, and chic Western fashions are very much in evidence. A jacket and tie would only be suggested at special theatre or opera occasions or very exclusive restaurants. Clothing in the countryside is usually informal.
Crime and Safety
The country is as safe as most others in the EU and as far as visitors are concerned, the major crime is pickpocketing (usually on buses and trams) or car theft. Take the usual precautions, especially on trips to and from the airport and the railway station, and at night. Thefts have occurred on overnight trains, especially in second-class closed compartments, though the most common occurrence is when boarding. Always be careful in areas frequented by tourists (such as Wawel Hill, Market Square in Kraków).
D
Driving
To take your car into Poland you need a valid driving licence and car registration papers. Cars from most European countries (including Britain, Germany and Austria) are presumed to be fully insured, so no extra documentation is needed. To be safe, carry proof of insurance.
Road conditions. Despite recent improvements and the motorway construction, Poland is still a dangerous place to drive your own vehicle as it has one of the highest accident mortality rates in Europe. Narrow country roads leave much to be desired as cars often have to compete with trucks and every other vehicle on the road. An ambitious construction programme involving three major motorways crossing the country (A1, A2 and A4) was well underway at the time of writing. The new motorways are toll-paying, and otherwise driving can be slow-going, especially on popular routes such as that from Kraków up to the Zakopane ski slopes.
Drivers should exercise care, particularly on roads in the countryside, which are often narrow, badly lit at night, and frequently under repair, especially in the summer months. You may find that country roads are used by pedestrians and animals as well as by vehicles. Heavy alcohol consumption can often be a contributing factor in accidents, even given the stringent laws against drinking and driving.
Rules and regulations. Drive on the right and pass on the left, but be careful at all times. Cars must be fitted with a nationality plate or sticker and use headlights at all times, night and day. A set of spare bulbs, a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, and a warning triangle are also obligatory. Seat belts are compulsory in front and back seats; children under 12 are prohibited from travelling in the front seat and must be in a car safety seat. Motorcycle riders and passengers must wear crash helmets. Using a mobile phone while driving is prohibited. Drinking and driving laws are tough; a blood alcohol level of more than 0.5 mg per litre is punishable by three years in prison.
Speed limits are 140km/h (87 mph) on motorways, 120km/h (75mph) on dual carriageways, 100km/h (62mph) on single carriageways, 90km/h (56mph) outside urban areas, and 50km/h (31mph) in built-up areas during the daytime and 60km/h (37mph) at night. You may be fined on the spot for speeding.
Fuel costs (benzyna). Petrol (gas) stations are common along highways and main roads, but don’t venture down minor roads without filling up. Stations are usually open 24 hours. Unleaded fuel is widely available (about 5 zł) and diesel and LPG are also widely available. Only in the rarest of cases are credit cards not accepted for payment.
Parking. Parking is a problem in any of the big cities, especially where historic centres are pedestrian-only. If you are driving, check that your hotel has parking facilities. A car parked in a prohibited zone will be towed away. Only guarded car parks should be used.
If you need help. If driving your own car, you should take out breakdown insurance cover; car rental companies usually have their own service. For roadside assistance, call the National Roadside Assistance Service, tel: 022 19637. Help will normally arrive within the hour. Three-quarters of breakdowns can be dealt with at the roadside, if you need a tow the charge depends on the type of repair and the towing distance. Remember to put out the red warning triangle 50m (55yd) behind your car or 100m (110yd) behind if you are on a dual carriageway. If anyone is injured, the police must be notified.
Road signs. Standard international pictographs are in use all over Poland. A sign with ‘Czarny Punkt’, showing a cross in a black circle, indicates a very dangerous area.
E
Electricity
The current is 220 volts AC, 50 Hertz throughout Poland. Plugs are the standard Continental, round two-pin type, for which British and North American appliances need an adapter. Electrical equipment of 110V/60Hz requires a transformer, though note than most mobile telephone and digital camera chargers incorporate a transformer.
Embassies and Consulates
Embassies are located in Warsaw; a few nations have consulates in other cities, notably Kraków and Gdańsk.
Australia: Embassy, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel: 022 521 3444 (www.australia.pl).
Canada: Embassy, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel: 022 584 3100 (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/poland-pologne).
Ireland: Embassy (Warsaw), ul. Mysia 5, tel: 022 564 2200 (www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/poland).
New Zealand: Embassy, Al. Ujazdowskie 51, tel: 022 521 0500 (www.nzembassy.com/poland).
South Africa: Embassy (Warsaw), ul. Koszykowa 54, tel: 022 622 1005 (www.dfa.gov.za).
UK: Embassy, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel: 022 311 0000. Consulate (Kraków), ul. Św. Anny 9, tel: 012 421 7030 (www.gov.uk/government/world/poland).
USA: Embassy, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel: 022 504 2000. Consulate (Kraków), ul. Stolarska 9, tel: 012 424 5100 (http://polish.poland.usembassy.gov).
Emergencies
The three main emergency services telephone numbers are listed below, although the chances of an English speaker at the other end are slim.
Ambulance tel: 999
Fire tel: 998
Police tel: 997
Universal emergency number from a mobile (cell) phone: 112
Between 2 June and 30 September, a special tourist helpline is in operation daily 10am–10pm; tel: 0800 200 300 (from landlines) or 0608 599 999 (from mobile phones).
ambulance karetka pogotowia
doctor lekarz
hospital szpital
police policja
Can you help me? Czy może mi pan[i] pomóc?
G
Gay and Lesbian Travellers
As a fervently Catholic and conservative country, gay life is not much out in the open in Poland, though an indicator of changing values is that in 2011 Kraków elected Europe’s first transgendered member of parliament. Still, there are gay scenes in Warsaw and Kraków and to a lesser extent in smaller cities. A good organisation to contact in Warsaw is Lambda (ul. Żurawia 24A, tel: 022 628 5222, www.lambdawarszawa.org). For information on gay Poland, check out www.gejowo.pl: it’s all in Polish but has a countrywide reach and translates well with an internet translation service.
Getting There
Air travel. Many European airlines serve Poland, as do several American and Canadian carriers. In all, Warsaw has flights to and from over 50 cities in more than 30 countries. The Polish national carrier, LOT Polish Airlines, flies from most major European cities and from North America. Scheduled flights are also available from British Airways. From the northeast coast of the US, flying time to Warsaw is about 8 hours.
International airport. Warsaw’s Chopin airport is the primary international airport, though there are also international flights to Kraków, Gdańsk, Katowice, Łódź, Szczecin, Poznań, Wrocław and Rzeszow with budget airlines increasing their reach all the time.
Rail travel. Warsaw and Kraków, among other cities, can easily be reached from any major Western, Central or Eastern European city. From the UK, take the Eurostar to Brussels, change for Cologne from which you can take the sleeper to Warsaw, or change in Paris for the sleeper to Berlin, where you can catch an express to Warsaw, Kraków, Poznań, Wrocław or Katowice. InterRail and Eurail passes are valid in Poland. Both RailEurope (www.raileurope.co.uk; tel: 0844 848 40 70) and Deutsche Bahn (www.bahn.com; tel: 08718 80 80 66) book train journeys across Europe. Warsaw’s international railway station is Warszawa Centralna; Kraków’s is Dworzec Główny. For train information tel: 042 19 436 (within Poland) or 042 205 55 05 (from outside the country).
By car/coach. Budget airlines may be cheap for those booking ahead, but travelling by coach is still an option, especially if you want to visit several cities – either across Europe or within Poland. Eurolines (www.eurolines.co.uk; tel: 08717 81 81 77 in the UK) has daily departures from London Victoria, changing in Berlin, to all the major cities in Poland and many smaller ones. The trip costs from £40 one way. The Eurolines Pass is also available, for 15 or 30 days from £140. Buses from across Europe arrive at Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West) station (tel: 0703 40 33 30). If you plan to drive across the Continent, the most direct route is via Ostend, Brussels and Berlin.
Guides and Tours
Travel agencies and organisations in many countries operate organised sightseeing tours of Poland. Look out for specialised trips, such as Jewish pilgrimage tours. Other speciality tours, which you can book on arrival, include Schindler’s List tours in Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter of Kraków.
H
Health and Medical Care
Polish doctors and other health officials are generally knowledgeable and skilled, and most speak some English and German. Doctors and hospitals may expect immediate cash payment for health services although medical treatment will normally be provided free of charge to EU citizens who have a European Health Insurance Card (available from post offices in the UK and online at www.ehic.org.uk). Visitors from non-EU countries should obtain medical insurance, and even EU citizens may wish to insure themselves privately, for example to ensure prompt repatriation in a medical emergency.
Bottled water is inexpensive to buy, although water is safe to drink except perhaps in the deepest countryside. Many Poles drink bottled water because they prefer the taste. If you plan to spend a lot of time in country areas, particularly those close to Russia, Lithuania or Belarus, it is wise to see your doctor about the symptoms and treatment of Lyme disease.
Emergency medical treatment on the scene is available for foreigners. Ask at your hotel or consulate for the name of a doctor who speaks your language. In Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk, Katowice, Szczecin, Łódź and Poznań, you can call the private medical service, Falck, using the local city code followed by 19675, which can usually arrange English-language emergency services. Other private hospitals include Centrum Medyczne Damiana (ul. Wałbrzyska 46; tel: 022 566 2222; www.damian.pl) and LUX MED (ul. Puławska 455; tel: 022 431 2059; www.luxmed.pl). Warsaw’s Central Emergency Medical Centre is located at ul. Hoża 56 (corner of ul. Poznańska). Centrum Medicover (tel: 500 900 500; www.medicover.pl) has medical centres in various Polish cities, such as Kraków, Warsaw, Poznań and Gdańsk; in emergencies tel: 500 900 999 (24 hours).
Pharmacies. Look for the sign ‘apteka’. In Poland these shops only sell pharmaceutical and related products. Tourism Information Offices have lists of night pharmacies. In Warsaw, two are: Apteka Przy Willowej (ul. Puławska 39, tel: 022 849 3757) and Apteka Grabowskiego (al. Jerozolimskie 54, Centralny Station, tel: 022 825 6986). Local editions of In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com), list additional pharmacies.
Where’s the nearest pharmacy? Gdzie jest najbliższa apteka?
I need a doctor. Ja potrzebuję doktora.
I need a dentist. Ja potrzebuję dentystę.
L
Language
Polish, a Slavic language, is the mother tongue of 99 percent of the population. The most widely known foreign language is English ahead of Russian and German. Young people in large cities are most likely to speak one or even two foreign languages, but communication can be troublesome with elders and in the countryside. In the cities English speakers are unlikely to find many problems. In the countryside, communication difficulties are to be expected. The Polish language is grammatically complicated, but at least it is written completely phonetically. Learning even a handful of key phrases is a good idea and will prove helpful. As a general rule, stress falls on the second-last syllable.
The following are a few useful phrases and some signs you are likely to see:
yes tak
no nie
Hi. (informal, singular/plural) Cześć (chesh).
Good night. Dobranoc.
Goodbye. Do widzenia.
Thank you (very much). Dziękuję (bardzo).
Excuse me (sorry). Przepraszam.
Do you speak English? Czy Pan/Pani mówi po angielsku?
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem.
I understand. Rozumiem.
I don’t know. Nie wiem.
Where is…? Gdzie jest…?
How do I get to…? Jak dojechać do…?
Good morning/day. Dzień dobry. (jen doe-bri)
Good evening. Dobry wieczór. (do-bri vee-a ye-chor)
Please. Proszę. (pro-sha)
Help! Pomocy! (po-mo-tsay)
Where is the toilet? Gdzie są toalety?
May I have…? Czy mogę…?
entrance wejście
exit wyjście
open otwarte / czynne
closed zamknięte
pharmacy apteka
post office poczta
avenue Aleja (Al.)
street ulica (ul.)
city centre centrum
old town Stare Miasto
M
Maps
Tourism Information Offices (for more information, click here) routinely supply visitors with free maps of cities (and regions, often for a nominal fee) that are sufficient for most peoples’ purposes. There are plenty of more comprehensive maps available, published by PPWK and others. Those driving through Poland may want to purchase a Road Atlas (Atlas Samochodowy).
Media
Newspapers and magazines. The Warsaw Voice (www.warsawvoice.pl), published weekly, is probably the most authoritative English-language newspaper. It gives a good insight into Polish politics, business and culture and also has a listings section for tourists. Other papers to look for include Welcome to Warsaw (a free information magazine), Warsaw Insider (www.warsawinsider.pl) a free monthly with cultural listings, Culture.pl website an authoritative guide to Polish culture and the ever-growing series of In Your Pocket mini-guides which have lots of listings and opinionated information (Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Łódź and Poznań editions at differing intervals, also available as iPhone apps). Kraków Post (www.krakowpost.com) is an entertaining monthly. Western newspapers, including The International Herald Tribune, Financial Times, The Guardian and USA Today, arrive the day of publication.
Radio and television. Polskie Radio (www.thenews.pl) is transmitted in English streamed over the internet and as podcasts. Even quite modest hotels now offer satellite television with major European and American channels and news programmes.
Money
Currency. The unit of currency is the złoty (zł). Coins in circulation include 1, 2 and 5 zł. Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 zł. One złoty equals 100 groszy (gr), which you’ll see in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 coin denominations.
Currency exchange. Foreign currency can be exchanged (look for the signs marked kantor) at the airports and banks, as well as most hotels. Kantors only exchange cash and can be very informal-looking places. They offer the best rates (no commission). Your passport is only necessary when changing money at banks. The exchange rate at the time of writing is around 3.9 zł to the US dollar and 6.1 zł to the pound. There is no black market for currency in Poland; any offers from strangers to exchange money should be refused as this will be counterfeit. The Polish word for cash is gotówka.
Numbers
zero zero
one jeden
two dwa / dwie
three trzy
four cztery
five pięć
six sześć
seven siedem
eight osiem
nine dziewięć
ten dziesięć
eleven jedenaście
fifteen piętnaście
sixteen szesnaście
seventeen siedemnaście
eighteen osiemnaście
nineteen dziewiętnaście
twenty dwadzieścia
thirty trzydzieści
forty czterdzieści
fifty pięćdziesiąt
hundred sto
Credit cards. Major international credit cards (Visa, MasterCard and American Express) are accepted in most hotels, restaurants and shops.
ATMs. Cash machines (bankomat), taking PLUS, Cirrus and most other major credit cards, are widespread in Polish cities and offer competitive international exchange rates. They dispense cash in Polish zł; some also give cash in euros.
Travellers cheques. These may be cashed at all of the above outlets except kantors and may sometimes be substituted for cash, but you’ll almost certainly get a much poorer rate of exchange than if you convert them to cash. Commission is generally 1 to 2 percent.
O
Opening Times
Opening times vary, but most businesses in Poland are open 8am–5pm Monday to Friday. Supermarkets, department stores and shopping centres are open 9am–8pm, Monday to Saturday; Sunday, 10am–6pm and sometimes later. Smaller shops are open 10am–6pm Monday to Friday, 9 or 10am–11 or 12 noon Saturday. Some close all day Saturday, and almost all shut on Sunday. ‘Non-Stop’ signs mean 24-hour shopping.
Banks are generally open 9am–6pm Monday to Friday. Museums are usually closed on Monday, and are open 10am–5pm Tuesday to Sunday, but museum hours can vary enormously with some closing for lunch and others having opening hours that change with the months of the year.
P
Police (policja) (see also Crime & Safety and Emergencies)
Police emergency, tel: 997 or 112 from a mobile.
Warsaw Police Headquarters: ul.Puławska 148/150 (tel: 022 621 02 51).
police station posterunek policji
Post Offices(poczta)
The Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 1) in Warsaw (ul. Świętokrzyska 31–33, tel: 022 505 3400) is open 24 hours a day. Other useful branches are at Targowa Street (ul. Targowa 73, also 24 hours a day, tel: 022 590 0313), on ul. Marszałkowska 26 (Mon–Fri 8am–8.30pm; tel: 022 629 3226) and Old Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta 15, 8am–8pm Mon–Fri, Sat 9am–4pm; tel: 022 831 0281).
In Kraków, the main Post Office is just east of the Planty (ul. Westerplatte 20, tel: 012 421 44 89; open Mon–Fri 8am–8.30pm, Sat 8am–3pm). For post out of hours try the branch opposite the train station at (ul. Lubicz 4; tel: 012 422 91 68; open 24 hours for stamps, post and money transfers).
International postcards and letters to Europe as well as the rest of the world cost 5.20 zł.
DHL, TNT and UPS all have offices in Warsaw and in Kraków.
letter list
stamp znaczek
air mail poczta lotnicza
Public Holidays
1 January New Year’s Day
6 January Epiphany
March/April Easter Sunday and Easter Monday
1 May Labour Day
3 May Constitution Day
May/June Pentecost (7th Sunday after Easter)
June Corpus Christi (9th Thursday after Easter)
15 August Feast of the Assumption
1 November All Saints’ Day
11 November Independence Day
25 December Christmas Day
26 December St Stephen’s Day
R
Religion
Nearly all native Poles declare themselves as Roman Catholic, but only 39 percent are practising Catholics. The late Pope John Paul II was a Cardinal and Archbishop of Kraków before becoming the head of the Catholic Church. Mass is said in Polish.
Other minority faiths, notably Protestant, Eastern Orthodox and Jewish, are represented in Poland. Tourism Information Offices should have a list of services held in English and other languages (infrequent).
T
Telephones (telefon)
Public telephones. Public telephones are rare in Poland. If you can actually find one, it works using prepaid cards bought from any shop or kiosk selling sweets and cigarettes.
Mobile phones. Avoid roaming costs by putting a local prepaid SIM card in your mobile phone. Several companies now offer start-up packages for less than 10zł, with top-up cards costing 5zł and upwards. Both can be bought from shops and kiosks around the city as well as the airport, bus and railway stations.
Making the call. To call Poland from outside the country, dial your international access code followed by 48 for Poland and the subscriber number minus the initial 0. If you’re calling within the country from anywhere in Poland on a landline you simply dial the 10-digit number include the area code beginning with zero. The same applies for calling a landline from a Polish mobile with the exception of Plus GSM, which requires the dropping of the first 0. To get a line out of Poland, dial 00 plus the country code. Mobile telephone numbers have 10 digits.
International dialling code for Poland: 48
Local and regional directory assistance: 118 913
International directory assistance: 118 912
Area codes:
Gdańsk/Gdynia/Sopot 058
Kraków 012
Łodź 042
Poznań 061
Toruń 056 / 055
Warsaw 022
Zakopane 018
Zamość 084
Time Zone
All of Poland is in the same time zone, Central European Time, or Greenwich Mean Time + 1 hour (or US Eastern Standard Time + 6 hours). As in the rest of Europe, the clocks go forward one hour on the last Sunday of March and back again on the last Sunday of October.
Tipping
Tipping is the norm in Poland but not obligatory. It’s customary to leave 10–15 percent at restaurants and round up the bill at bars. Some restaurants may add on a 10 percent tip. Porters, maids and tourist guides also expect tips.
bill/check rachunek
Toilets
In Poland public toilets (toaleta publiczna) can be few and far between. A small charge (1–2 zł) is common, and even cafés (especially at petrol stations) may still charge patrons for use of their facilities. Men’s rooms are commonly denoted by triangle symbols; women’s rooms are denoted by circles.
men’s room męski (panowie)
women’s restroom damski (panie)
free wolny
occupied zajęty
Polish tourist information centres range from desks tucked away in the corners of obliging travel agencies, to dedicated buildings complete with interactive maps. The most popular tourist cities such as Kraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk have many branches. Note that there is a difference between official tourist information centres and the many agencies that label themselves ‘tourist information’ and exist mainly to sell guided tours and tickets. As well as being able to help you plan your itinerary, most places also offer help and advice on accommodation, car hire, the best places to eat authentic local food as well as a whole host of other useful services. Below are details of a few of the tourist information offices in the key cities.
Warsaw. You will find tourist information points at Chopin Airport (Terminal A, exit 2); Palace of Culture and Science (pl. Defilad 1, from ul. Emilii Plater, between Kongresowa Hall and Museum of Technology); Warszawa Centralna (the Central Railway Station’s main hall); Rynek Starego Miasta 19–21a and Kordegarda (ul. Krakowski Przedmieście 15–17). For general tourist information, tel: 022 19431 or see www.warsawtour.pl.
Kraków. The offical Krakow City Tourist Office has several InfoKraków branches throughout the city, mainly open daily 9am–7pm. Cloth Hall, Main Market Square 1-3 (tel: 012 433 73 10; www.krakow.pl).
Gdańsk. Again, there are several Centrum Informacji Turystycznej, at the airport and in the city: ul. Długi Targ 28–29 (058 301 4355, www.gdansk4u.pl); ul. Długa 45 (tel: 058 301 1343; www.pttk-gdansk.pl) and others, www.gdansk.pl.
Łódź. Centrum Informacji Turystycznej (ul. Piotrkowska 87, tel: 042 638 5956/55), http://pl.cit.lodz.pl), at the airport and other points in the city.
Poznań. Centrum Informacji Miejskiej (ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel: 061 19431 or 061 851 9645) and Tourism Information Centre (Stary Rynek 59-60, tel: 061 852 6156), www.poznan.pl.
Wrocław Tourist Information Centre (Rynek 14, 51-101 Wrocław, tel. 071 3443 111, www.wroclaw-info.pl
Official web addresses for other destinations listed in this book:
Auschwitz www.auschwitz.org
Kazimierz Dolny www.kazimierzdolny.pl
Malbork www.visitmalbork.pl
Sopot www.sopot.pl
Toruń www.torun.pl
Wieliczka www.wieliczka.eu
Zakopane www.promocja.zakopane.pl
Zamość www.zamosc.pl
UK: Polish National Tourist Office, Westgate House, West Gate, London W5 1YY; tel: 0300 303 1812; www.poland.travel.
US: Polish National Tourist Office, 5 Marine View Plaza, Hoboken, New Jersey, NJ 07030; tel: 201 420 99 10; www.poland.travel.
Transport
Local transport
Most Polish cities have well-developed systems of public transport that include buses and trams (and in the case of Warsaw, two Metro, or subway, lines).
In Warsaw (www.ztm.waw.pl), buses run from 5am to 11.30pm; night buses from 11.15pm to 4.30am. Tickets (valid on buses, trams and the Metro) can be purchased at kiosks with a green-and-yellow Ruch logo, and you can also buy a ticket directly from the driver for a slightly higher price or at vending machines on buses and trams. Lines beginning with the number 1, 2, or 3 stop at all stops, those beginning 4 and 5 are speedier.
In Kraków, there are many tram lines and many more bus lines (www.mpk.krakow.pl). They run from 5am to 11pm. You can purchase single-trip tickets, one-hour tickets, one-day and one-week passes. Some night buses (numbers always start with 6) run about once an hour from midnight mostly through the city centre (they stop under the Central Station).
Buses (autobus). Validate your ticket upon boarding to avoid an on-the-spot fine. There is a wide range of ticket prices, with time-limited tickets allowing passengers to change lines within the stated time. Signal that you want to get off by pressing the bell. Roadworks and the rapid modernisation of Polish cities mean that routes are subject to change.
Trams (tramwaj). Trams, or streetcars, cover large networks in most Polish cities; some run throughout the night. At peak hours tram is the fastest way (other than the metro) to get around large Polish cities, which are usually backed up in traffic jams.
Taxis (taksówka). Taxi fares depend on the length of the journey and the rate, which changes according to the time of day. Night and weekend rates are higher. Official licensed taxis are clearly badged inside and out and have a roof-light. The driver should switch on the meter at the beginning of the journey and give you a receipt on payment. However there are cases of foreigners being overcharged, especially since most drivers only speak Polish. Unofficial taxis are common, and tend to gather at airports and train stations. If you want a taxi, ask your hotel to call one for you. For taxi company details, for more information, click here. Hailing a cab is not recommended.
Subway or underground (Metro). The Metro in Warsaw (www.metro.waw.pl) operates two lines. One runs through the city centre from Młociny station to the southern suburb of Kabaty (near Ursynów) and another one from Rondo Daszyńskiego (east of the city centre) to Dworzec Wileński on the other side of the Vistula river. It functions daily 5am–midnight (to 3am Fri and Sat), with trains every 3–4 minutes during rush hour, every 8 minutes during off-peak hours.
Transport around the country
Buses/coaches (autobus). The main bus station in Warsaw is Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel: 0703 403 330). Kraków’s main bus station is behind the train station (ul Bosacka 18, tel: 012 411 8019). Gdańsk’s bus station is Dworzec PKS (ul. 3 Maja 12, tel: 58 306 48 43) adjacent to the train station.
The national bus service PKS (www.pksbilety.pl) has the most extensive network of bus routes throughout the country.
For bus information, tel: 708-208-888.
Trains (pociąg). With more than 26,500km (16,450 miles) of railway lines, the Polish railway network covers the whole country, making trains by far the most common and best way to travel between major cities. The exception is short journeys, when buses can be faster (Kraków to Zakopane, for example). Warsaw has three big railway stations; most international trains arrive at Warszawa Centralna (Al. Jerozolimskie 54), while others go to Warszawa Zachodnia (Al. Jerozolimskie 144), which has good interchanges and Warszawa Wschodnia (ul. Lubelska 1) across the river in Praga. Smaller stations, mostly on the edges of the city, handle regional routes.
Kraków’s main railway station is Kraków Dworzec Główny (Pl. Dworcowy 1, tel: 012 9436); it handles international and inter-city routes. Gdańsk’s railway station is Gdańsk Główny (ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, tel: 058 9436); the fast SKM commuter train connects the Tri-city area, leaving every 10 minutes between 6am and 7.30pm and less frequently thereafter.
The rail journey from Warsaw to Kraków takes 2 hours 25 minutes; from Warsaw to Gdańsk, 3 hours; and from Warsaw to Poznań, 2hours 28 minutes (fast trains).
Tickets can be purchased at the train station in advance or on board from the conductor (for a surcharge).
For train timetables and information, visit http://pkp.pl, www.intercity.pl. Informaton: tel: 22 19757; from abroad: 48 42 20 55 007).
railway station dworzec kolejowy
bus stop przystanek
ticket kiosk (buses/trams) sprzedaż biletów mpk
reserved seat ticket miejscówka
departure odjazd
arrival przyjazd
Please, a ticket to… Proszę bilet do…
return ticket bilet powrotny
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All visitors need a valid passport to enter Poland. Holders of European Union passports do not need a visa and may stay as long as they please. Visitors holding passports from many other countries, including Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US may also enter Poland without a visa but their stay may be limited, usually for 90 days. Citizens of South Africa and a few other states will need a visa; check at www.msz.gov.pl. Poland is a member of the Schengen group of countries, meaning that a Schengen Block visa is valid for entry to Poland. Visa applications need to be registered online at www.e-konsulat.gov.pl, where there is more detailed visa information. Minimum visa processing times range from 10 days to a month, depending on the passport held, and can take longer.
Customs restrictions. There is a 10,000-euro limit on the amount of currency you can bring into Poland. Visitors are allowed to bring in duty-free alcohol and tobacco products for personal use only, eg, 800 cigarettes and 10 litres of spirits. Check with your home country how much you can bring back duty-free from Poland. Note that airport checks are fierce. Call Customs Information hotline at 801 470 477 for details.
There are also strict regulations to prevent the export of objects of national heritage, such as works of art and antiques. In most cases, works by living artists and works less than 55 years old are exempt. However, there are exceptions to this rule. Reputable antique and art dealers can help their clients get export permits from the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage. Each region has its own department for the export of works of art. In Warsaw it is: Wojewódzki Urząd Ochrony Zabytków W Warszawie, ul. Nowy Świat 18/20; tel: 022 443 04 40; www.mwkz.pl.
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Websites and Internet Access
Most cafés, especially in the city centres, as well as hotels and hostels offer free wi-fi.
In Kraków, travellers can access free wi-fi in and around the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny). The municipal hot spot network has been recently extended to more than 21 points across the city. Look out, too, for the hotspot Cracovia logo signalling free wi-fi at hotels and cafés.
Warsaw has free internet hot spots in the Old Town, on Krakowskie Przedmieście Street, ‘Wiech’ Passage (pasaż Wiecha) at the back of the ‘Wars i Sawa’ Shopping Centre and in the area of Browarna Street (Powiśle district). Free connection is widely available in the city centre. You can check the map of free wi-fi points at www.warsawtour.pl. Free internet access is also available in many cafés and on some buses.
Here are some useful websites to help you plan your trip to Poland:
www.poland.travel (Polish National Tourist Office)
www.polishworld.com (general information, news, culture)
www.warsawvoice.com.pl (site of English-language weekly)
www.inyourpocket.com (In Your Pocket listings site)
www.krakow.pl (Kraków site)
www.warsawtour.pl (Warsaw tourist information)
www.gdansk.pl (municipal site)
www.destinationwarsaw.com (general information about the city)
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Youth Hostels
There is an extensive network of youth hostels (schroniska młodzieżowe) – reportedly as many as 950 in all – throughout Poland. For information, contact the Polish Association of Youth Hostels (ul. Mokotowska 14, Warsaw, tel: 022 849 8128, www.ptsm.org.pl). International Student Hostels Accommodation is available through the ALMATUR Travel Bureau (ul. Kopernika 23, Warsaw, tel: 022 826 2639, www.almatur.pl). In the main tourist cities, you will also find excellent privately-run hostels, which are a good choice for travellers on a budget.