Risotto

Risotto (riso is the Italian word for rice; risotto means “big rice”) is unique in the world of rice dishes. Like no other rice dish the rice in risotto is stirred constantly during the entire cooking time. The friction of the stirring releases the starch and combines with the gradually added hot broth to make a creamy “sauce” that surrounds each tender grain. What is distinctive about risotto is the contrast in textures. When you bite into perfectly cooked risotto, the rice feels creamy until you reach the centers of the grains, where there will be a pleasant resistance. At first you may not recognize when risotto is properly cooked, but with practice, you will.

The rice used to make risotto must be a medium-grain rice with a higher percentage of amylopectin (the sticky starch) than amylose (the dry starch). Three popular varieties of Italian risotto rice are Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, and Arborio. If you examine the raw grains, you see a large oval grain with a clearly visible white core (sometimes called the pearl) surrounded by a translucent border. It is this core that gives the rice its unique texture, or bite. Baldo, another Italian rice, now grown in the United States, as well and other medium-grain rices grown in California make a creamy risotto, but the grains are smaller and the core less distinct.

As in all cooking, choosing the right pot for making risotto is important. Use a shallow 8-or 10-quart heavy-bottomed pot or a deep (about 3 inches) 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan. The wide pot allows the rice to spread out and cook evenly and provides ample room for stirring constantly throughout the cooking process. If you use a tall narrow saucepan, the ingredients will be too crowded, making it difficult to cook—and stir—the rice evenly.

How do you know when risotto is done? The time it takes to cook depends on an assortment of variables, many of which cannot be controlled by the cook. Generally, risotto takes between 20 and 30 minutes (longer at higher altitudes) to cook. But the age (older rice is drier and needs more time; younger rice is moister and cooks a little faster) and the variety (large grains cook more slowly than small) are two important factors. The rice will take slightly longer to cook if you add acidic ingredients such as tomatoes or wine. When I add the first half cup of broth, I set my timer for 15 minutes. When the 15 minutes is up, I begin to taste the risotto every few minutes to check the consistency of the rice as the cooking continues over the next 5 to 10 minutes. Look for a creamy sauce surrounding the grains of rice and rice that is tender on the outside with a very slight resistance when you bite through the grain. The rice should not be gummy or chalky. You, and the rice, not the clock, are the best judges.

 

Risotto Troubleshooting

• Never rinse the rice for risotto; that would wash away the starch essential for its creamy consistency.
• Stir with a long-handled, flat-edged wooden spoon that can reach the edges of the pot and sweep across the bottom in just a couple of strokes.
• Add the rice all at once to the hot olive oil or butter, stirring until each grain of rice is coated and heated through.
• Use good-quality broth, either homemade or store-bought.
• For measuring the broth easily, use a 4-ounce ladle. The amount of broth called for is approximate because of the many other variables involved, like the moisture content of the rice, the weight and size of the pan, and the intensity of the heat. Keep a kettle of water simmering; if you run out of broth, add boiling water as necessary.
• Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle boil or steady simmer.
• Never cover the risotto.
• When the risotto is cooked, add the cheese and butter, stirring vigorously to loosen the starch, making the risotto thicker and creamier.
• Let finished risotto stand, off the heat, for a few minutes before serving.

 

Risotto, like pasta, is a canvas for any number of flavor additions. The basic formula (butter or olive oil, onion, rice, chicken broth, and cheese) is straightforward and simple, but it can become complex with the addition of wine, fish broth, dried mushrooms, meats, and/or vegetables. Stir fresh or thawed frozen peas, crisp-cooked diced vegetables (carrot, zucchini, yellow squash, red bell pepper), sautéed mushrooms, or cooked sausage, meat, or fish into the risotto during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Just before serving, stir in a chunk of butter and cheese to taste. A mild-flavored hard grating cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano is most often used, but Asiago, Fontina, and even Gruyère are good. Add them sparingly at first and taste before adding more. To preserve their color and fresh flavor, fresh herbs, such as slivered basil, rosemary and thyme leaves, or chopped parsley, are added just before serving.

In Italy, risotto is served as the primi piatti, or first course—except for risotto alla milanese, which is served as a side dish with osso buco. The American palate, accustomed to a main course of pasta, also enjoys risotto as a main course. One cup of rice makes enough risotto to serve two as a main course or four as a first course.

Serve risotto in warmed shallow soup dishes, mounding it in the center of the bowls. Risotto is always eaten with a fork. Serve extra cheese on the side if you like, but I usually add plenty of cheese during the finishing step.

A Basic Risotto

Called risotto bianco, or “white risotto,” this is a classic risotto made with rice, broth, and cheese. Top it with curls of cheese cut from a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano with a cheese plane or sturdy vegetable peeler. Substitute red wine for the white and beef for the chicken broth.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¹/₃ cup finely chopped onion

½ cup dry white wine

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

¹/₃ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

Parmigiano-Reggiano curls

Kosher salt

• 1. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 3. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth; cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the grated cheese; stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 5. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Top with Parmesan curls and serve at once.

Risotto with Asparagus, Peas, and Saffron

In early spring, slender green asparagus and bunches of bright yellow daffodils first appear in the market, announcing the change in the seasons. This risotto is my culinary bridge from the dullness of winter to the anticipation of spring. The rice tinted yellow by the saffron reminds me of daffodils.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

½ cup dry white wine

12 ounces asparagus, trimmed, stems peeled, and soaked in cold water

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup finely diced peeled carrot

¼ cup diced shallots

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ teaspoon finely shredded lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

• 1. Sprinkle the saffron into a small dry skillet; heat over low heat for 30 seconds. Add the wine; heat to a simmer. Remove from the heat, let stand, covered, for 15 minutes.
• 2. Drain the asparagus. Cut the stalks into ¼-inch diagonal slices up to the tips; leave the tips whole. Set aside.
• 3. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 4. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the carrot and shallots; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and saffron mixture; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the wine is absorbed.
• 5. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, stir in the asparagus, lemon zest, and lemon juice. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 6. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 7. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes and serve at once.

Roasted Carrot and Leek Risotto with Lemon and Thyme

Roasting vegetables intensifies their flavor. The roasted carrots lend a pretty golden color to this risotto and both the carrots and the leeks add richness and a hint of sweetness.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

4 medium carrots, halved lengthwise

2 garlic cloves, bruised with the side of a knife

4 thin lemon slices

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large leek, trimmed, washed, and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

• 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
• 2. Combine the carrots, lemon slices, garlic, and oil in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are tender and lightly browned, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool. Discard the lemons and garlic. Cut the carrots into ¼-inch dice; set aside.
• 3. Heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 4. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the leek; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 5. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, stir in the carrots and lemon zest. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 6. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 7. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Sprinkle with the thyme. Serve at once.

Green Risotto with Dried Tomatoes and Pecorino Romano

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

Spinach gives this risotto a green-flecked appearance. The sharpness of the pecorino Romano, an Italian sheep’s milk cheese, is mellowed and softened by the richness of the rice. If preferred, use half Parmigiano-Reggiano and half pecorino.

 

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped onion

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

¹/₃ cup dry white wine

12 ounces spinach, trimmed, washed, and coarsely chopped (4 cups lightly packed)

4 halves sun-dried tomatoes in oil, rinsed, drained, and cut into ¼-inch pieces

¼ cup freshly grated pecorino Romano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 2. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, add the spinach and dried tomatoes. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 4. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Add a grinding of black pepper to each bowl. Serve at once.

Tomato Risotto with Asiago, Mozzarella, and Basil

Make this risotto when fresh tomatoes are in season. A variety of cheeses can be successfully paired in this risotto—try a tangy cheese such as Asiago or ricotta salata with a creamy cheese such as mozzarella or fresh goat cheese. But if none is available, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano works just fine.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

2 cups seeded and diced (¼-inch) ripe plum tomatoes (about 8 tomatoes)

1 tablespoon chopped basil, plus 4 large basil leaves, tightly curled together and cut into paper-thin slivers or chiffonade

1 garlic clove, crushed through a press

½ teaspoon kosher salt

4 to 6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped onion

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup diced mozzarella, preferably fresh

¼ cup freshly grated Asiago

• 1. Combine the tomatoes, 1 tablespoon of the chopped basil, the garlic, and salt in a small bowl. Stir; set aside at room temperature.
• 2. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 3. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 4. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. About 5 minutes before the risotto is cooked, add 1½ cups of the tomatoes. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 5. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the mozzarella, and Asiago. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 6. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Garnish with the remaining tomatoes and the basil chiffonade.

Shrimp and Fresh Corn Risotto

Cheese and seafood are rarely served together in Italian cooking, but this shrimp and corn risotto is an exception. Shell the shrimp and make the shrimp broth for the risotto up to one day before preparing the risotto.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined (shells reserved)

1 garlic clove, chopped

½ cup dry white wine

1 bay leaf 1 onion slice

1 leafy celery top

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup thinly sliced white part of scallions

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

1 cup corn kernels (from 2 ears)

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped basil

• 1. For the shrimp broth: Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan over medium heat until hot enough to sizzle a shrimp shell. Add the shrimp shells; cook, stirring, until they change color, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the wine; boil until reduced by half. Add 10 cups water, the bay leaf, onion slice, and celery top; heat to a boil. Reduce the heat; simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 6 to 8 cups, about 1 hour. Strain; discard the solids.
• 2. Transfer the shrimp broth to a saucepan; add salt to taste. Keep at a simmer over low heat.
• 3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the scallions; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes.
• 4. Add ½ cup of the hot shrimp broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. About 5 minutes before the risotto is cooked, add the shrimp, corn, and lemon zest. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 5. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Add the lemon juice and basil. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 6. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Serve at once, with additional cheese on the side.

Roasted Beet Risotto with Dill and Beet Greens

Oven-roasted beets, with their intense sweet flavor and their stunning deep pink color, make a festive dish. Select beets with tender leafy green tops, and cook the tops to use as a garnish.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

4 medium beets, tops and roots trimmed (reserve tender leafy tops)

1 teaspoon minced rosemary, plus 4 rosemary sprigs, about 1 inch long

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped onion

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

¹/₃ cup dry red wine

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¹/₃ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
• 2. Cut four pieces, each about 10 inches square, of aluminum foil. Set a beet in the center of each; top with a little minced rosemary. Wrap the beets in the foil, crimping the edges to keep in the juices. Place directly on an oven rack and roast until the beets are tender when pieced with a fork, about 1½ hours. Let cool.
• 3. Unwrap the beets, reserving the juices. Rub off the beet skins. Cut the beets into ¼-inch slices; stack and cut into ¼-inch strips, then dice. Set aside in a bowl with the beet juices. (This can be done up to 2 days ahead.)
• 4. If the beet tops are tender and unblemished, rinse well and trim the long stems. Cut into 1-inch pieces. Blanch in boiling salted water for 5 minutes; drain. Reserve.
• 5. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 6. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 7. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. About 5 minutes before the risotto is cooked, stir in the beets with their juices and the orange zest. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 8. Meanwhile, if using beet greens, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over low heat. Add the beet greens; heat, stirring, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm over very low heat.
• 9. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese to the risotto. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 10. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. If using beet greens, tuck a small portion of beet greens into the center of each mound of risotto. Garnish with the rosemary sprigs. Serve at once.

Roasted Red Pepper and Italian Sausage Risotto

Make this with the most flavorful sweet Italian sausage you can find, preferably with fennel seeds. Ideally the bell peppers should be freshly roasted and peeled, but in a pinch, use store-bought roasted peppers. Rinse jarred peppers well with cold water before using.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

2 red bell peppers

8 ounces sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup finely chopped onion

1 small garlic clove, minced

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1. Preheat the broiler. Lay a sheet of aluminum foil just large enough to enclose the peppers on the broiler pan; place the peppers on top. Broil about 2 inches from the heat source, turning frequently, until evenly charred. Remove from the broiler. Wrap the foil around the peppers and let stand until cool enough to handle.
• 2. Working over the foil to catch the juices, remove the stems, seeds, membranes, and skin from the peppers. Cut into ¼-inch dice; place in a small bowl. Set a strainer over the bowl; drain the juices in the foil over the peppers. (This can be done up to 1 day ahead.)
• 3. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage; cook, breaking it into pieces with the side of a fork, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Drain off the fat. Reserve the sausage.
• 4. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 5. Heat the olive oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet over low heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes.
• 6. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. About 5 minutes before the risotto is cooked, add the roasted peppers with their juices and half of the sausage. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 7. Add the butter and cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving. Meanwhile, reheat the remaining sausage.
• 8. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Place a few pieces of sausage on each mound of risotto. Add a grinding of black pepper to each bowl. Serve at once.

Artichokes and Pancetta Risotto with Rosemary and Lemon

Artichokes so fresh you could almost hear them gasp when you snapped off the leaves, the lemon tree in our garden heavy with fruit, and fresh new growth on our rosemary hedge convinced me that it was time to make risotto with artichoke hearts. I like to use pancetta, unsmoked Italian-style bacon, in the risotto, as the smokiness of regular bacon detracts from the sweetness of the artichokes. If pancetta is unavailable, use slivers of prosciutto.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

4 medium artichokes

1 bay leaf

1 garlic clove, bruised with the side of a knife

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar or aged red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons minced rosemary, plus 4 small sprigs (about 1 inch)

Freshly ground black pepper

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

1 slice (¼-inch) pancetta, minced

¹/₃ cup finely chopped carrot

¹/₃ cup finely chopped onion

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus Parmigiano-Reggiano curls for garnish

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

• 1. Pull off the tough outer layers of artichoke leaves and discard. Trim the ends of the stems. Lay the artichokes on their sides and cut 1 inch off the top. Place in a large pot; add water to cover. Add the bay leaf, garlic, and 2 teaspoons salt. Place a plate small enough to fit inside the pot on top of the artichokes to keep them submerged (they are floaters!). Heat to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and boil gently until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain. Let cool.
• 2. Pull off the outer artichoke leaves, set aside. Discard the small inside leaves with the thorny tips. Using the tip of a teaspoon, scoop out and discard the fuzzy chokes. Dice the hearts and tender stems into ¼-inch pieces. (There should be about 2 cups.) Reserve half the outer artichoke leaves for garnish. Reserve the remaining leaves for another use.
• 3. In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the vinegar, 1 teaspoon of the minced rosemary, a pinch of salt, and a grinding of black pepper; whisk to blend. Add the reserved artichoke leaves; toss to coat. Set aside.
• 4. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 5. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the carrot and onion; cook until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine, cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until absorbed.
• 6. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. About 5 minutes before the risotto is cooked, add the diced artichoke hearts and the lemon zest. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 7. Add the butter and cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Stir in the lemon juice. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 8. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Sprinkle each dish with a pinch of the remaining rosemary. Top with a few curls of cheese. Arrange the artichoke leaves in a sunburst pattern around each serving of risotto. Place a rosemary sprig in the center. Serve at once.

Fresh Fig Risotto with Rosemary Butter–Glazed Walnuts

I moved to California from New York kicking and screaming, but I became a California convert on a sunny Saturday morning while standing before a pile—yes, a pile—of fresh figs. I picked one up and held it in my hand. It was warm and heavy. When I turned it over, there was a teardrop of sugary fig syrup dripping from its blossom end. I almost wept with joy. I had never seen so many figs in one place. People were filling bags and buying them by the pound. I had come a very long way indeed from New York City, where figs by the piece cost what I paid that morning for an entire pound. Talk about fig heaven. The practical cook in me quickly snapped out of my reverie as I began to plan my menu for the evening. This fig risotto was the result.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

½ cup walnut pieces (halves or quarters)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

¼ cup minced shallots

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 pound ripe green figs (Calimyrna, Kadota, or Adriatic) rinsed, stems trimmed, and cut into ½-inch cubes

½ cup coarsely slivered Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

• 1. Sprinkle the walnuts into a small skillet and toast over medium-low heat until golden. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and the rosemary; stir until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat; set aside.
• 2. Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 3. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallots; sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook, stirring, over medium-high heat, until absorbed.
• 4. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. Halfway through the cooking, add half of the diced figs. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 5. Add the remaining figs, half of the walnut butter mixture, and half of the cheese; stir to blend. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 6. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Spoon the few remaining walnuts and rosemary butter over each. Top with the remaining cheese. Serve at once.

Winter Squash Risotto with Nutmeg and Sage

Almost any winter squash can be used in this risotto, but for a rich flavor I prefer the round Japanese squash called Kabocha.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

One 1½-pound Kabocha or other winter squash, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 2 cups)

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped onion

½ cup dry white wine

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

Freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon torn sage leaves

• 1. Heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 2. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. Ten minutes before the risotto is done, stir in the squash. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the cheese, and a generous grinding of nutmeg. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 4. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Sprinkle the top of each with a few gratings of nutmeg and a pinch of sage leaves. Serve at once, with additional Parmesan on the side.

Fennel and Leek Risotto with Orange

It wasn’t until I was an adult that I discovered the sweet mellow taste of cooked fennel. As a child growing up in an Italian family, the only fennel I knew (and adored) was raw. With its distinctive licorice taste, we were a family divided into fennel lovers and fennel haters. Today slowly cooked fennel is one of my favorite vegetables. Here it is paired with leeks in a delicate creamy risotto.

 

Makes 4 one-cup servings

 

1 fennel bulb (about 12 ounces), stalks trimmed and feathery tops reserved, bulb trimmed, any blemishes removed, and cut into quarters

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium leek, trimmed, washed, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon grated orange zest, plus three strips 2 × ½-inch orange zest, cut into thin lengthwise slivers

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus additional for serving

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

• 1. Soak the fennel in ice water for 20 minutes; drain well. Dry and chop as uniformly as possible into ¼-inch pieces; set aside. (There should be about 1½ cups.) Finely chop enough of the reserved fennel tops to make ¼ cup; set aside.
• 2. Heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
• 3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the leek; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped fennel. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
• 4. Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
• 5. Add the grated orange zest, the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the cheese, and half of the fennel tops. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
• 6. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and strips of orange zest in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring until the edges of the zest begin to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
• 7. Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Sprinkle with the remaining fennel tops and the strips of orange zest. Serve at once, with additional Parmesan on the side.

Leftover Risotto

Risotto Pancakes

Use leftover risotto to make little pancakes. Combine cold risotto with a little beaten egg, shape it into small pancakes, and brown in melted butter or hot olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. See the recipe for Risotto al Salto.

Risotto Baked in Roasted Portobello Mushrooms

Use leftover Basic Risotto or Green Risotto with Dried Tomatoes and Pecorino Romano or prepare risotto to use as the filling if there are no leftovers. This makes an excellent first course or side dish with beef or chicken.

 

Makes 2 or 4 servings

 

2 or 4 medium (about 4 inches in diameter) portobello mushrooms, stems removed

4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 cups leftover cooked risotto

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
• 2. Arrange the portobello mushrooms smooth side down in a roasting pan. Drizzle each with 1 teaspoon olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn over and roast smooth side up for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven.
• 3. Turn the portobellos smooth side down and spoon the risotto onto the mushrooms, mounding it slightly in the center. Sprinkle the tops with a little grated cheese. Roast until the cheese is melted and the risotto is heated through, about 10 minutes longer.

Risotto Baked in Roasted Acorn Squash Halves

Use leftover Winter Squash Risotto or Basic Risotto. Serve as a first course or as a side dish with pork, lamb, or chicken.

 

Makes 2 to 4 servings

 

1 or 2 small acorn squash (about 1 pound each)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 cups leftover cooked risotto

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyère

• 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
• 2. Break off the stem(s), if still attached, from the squash. Place the squash on its side and, with a large heavy knife, cut in half across the “equator.” Scoop out the seeds and membranes. Cut a small slice from the pointed ends so the halves will stand straight. Sprinkle the insides with salt and pepper.
• 3. Place the squash cut side down in a baking pan. Add about ½ inch hot water to the pan. Cover and roast 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Turn the squash over.
• 4. Spoon the risotto into the scooped-out section of each squash half, mounding it slightly in the center. Sprinkle with cheese. Roast for 15 minutes longer, or until the risotto is lightly browned and the cheese is melted.