“YOU CAN TELL A LOT ABOUT A PERSON BY SITTING ACROSS A TABLE AND LOOKING INTO THEIR EYES,”
Image 48
Kenneth Melear tells you from behind his big oak desk just back of the cash register, unlit stogie hanging out the side of his mouth.
He ought to know. After all, he served as chief magistrate judge for 28 years, but that was only a part-time job. Except for a three-year stint in the army, he has been in the barbecue business his entire life.
“My grandfather started the first Melear’s Barbecue before I was born. I don’t remember exactly when. But you could get a bowl of stew for a nickel.” That was in LaGrange. His father tried his hand as a cotton mill manager, but the lure of smoking shoulders was too much. He opened his own place in Union City in 1942. Kenneth learned the family business at both places before opening up his own place in Fayetteville on July 7, 1957. (Image 49)
Image 49
Back then, Fayetteville had 8,000 residents and one traffic light. Today, there are more than 100,000 people in Fayette County. Needless to say, there have been a lot of changes, and Ken has seen them all. Odds are pretty good he catered at them, too.
Kenneth’s is where it’s always been, on the corner of State Highway 85 and what is now Melear’s Way. The oak and hickory is stacked long and high, making a fence around the barbecue pit, which is housed in a covered shed.
Across the parking lot is Melear’s Barbecue. The cinderblocks are painted in an alternate black and white checker pattern, reminiscent of the flag that signifies that the race has been won.
“I’m a big NASCAR fan,” Kenneth proudly proclaims. The interior walls are practically a NASCAR museum. It must be pointed out that there is trouble in paradise. Kenneth is a huge Jeff Gordon fan, and his girl, Merrium, pulls for Dale Jr. (Image 50)
Image 50: Melear’s Barbecue 427 S Glynn Street • Fayetteville, GA 30214 • (770)461-7180
That aside, a lot of the fun of Melear’s is eating off those turquoise school-cafeteria trays, circa 1960.
“The elementary school called me up and told me they were going to be getting rid of them and if I’d be interested. I bought all 700 of them for a dime apiece. You can’t break them, and they divide the food up perfectly.”
NOT EXACTLY THEIR BRUNSWICK STEW
Fully cook the meat (smoking is preferred). Combine all the other ingredients in a stockpot, 16-quart or larger. Bring to a boil and then turn to low heat for about 2 hours. Be sure to stir periodically so that it doesn’t burn on the bottom of the pot. Finely chop up the cooked meat—a Cuisinart is especially good for this. Stir chopped meat into the pot for the final 10 minutes of cooking and mix thoroughly. Serves 20–25, but you can halve the recipe. Freezes especially well.