THE JOINT AND ITS OWNERS DIDN’T FORGET WHERE THEY CAME FROM.
Phil’s is now run by Pete Polizzi, a former college football player who busts chops with the regulars. It is the kind of kidding that only good friends can get away with. It ends with the customer walking away with a portion ample enough to straighten out any ruffled feathers.
Pete took over from his father, Phil, who was born in America but grew up in Italy, only to return as a young man to work in the garment district in Saint Louis, among other jobs.
Pete’s mother, Teresa, is from Sicily, so food was always a big deal. They always wanted to own a restaurant, where they could share the food that they loved, but the restaurant they ended up buying was The Stumble Inn—a 3–2 beer joint that also had an outdoor barbecue pit—back in 1961.
“They didn’t want to lose any customers, so they kept the barbecue and added their Italian,” Pete tells me. (Image 99)
Image 99
“A couple of years ago, this old guy came in and told me he had many fond memories of being underage and throwing down Griesidiecks and smoking Luckies at the bar that used to be here.” (Image 100)
Image 100
Pete points. “That old bar is still here. It was just too heavy to move, so we just kind of expanded around it.”
One of my rules is to shy away any place with an extensive menu. Something usually suffers, and more often than not, it’s the barbecue. But Phil’s is the exception to that rule. Worlds do collide, and they do come together quite nicely. The Italian mixes with the American; sprinkle in a little Mexican, and there you have it.
I got an order of ribs and he threw in a side of spaghetti and a tamale, with his signature marinara/barbecue sauce.
The couple at the next table told me that I really should try the pizza. “It’s the best in town,” they said. I thanked them for their endorsement, but they would not settle for a thank you. They actually gave me a slice! Midwestern hospitality at its finest. It truly is a slice of heaven on a thin crust. (Image 101)
Image 101: Phil’s Bar-B-Q 9205 Graovis • Afton, MO 63123 • (314)638-1313
PHIL’S ITALIAN SAUSAGE
Image 102
Grind the pork. In a large bowl, mix the pork with all the other ingredients. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to allow for marrying of the ingredients. Shape into patties or put through grinder with sausage link attachment using hog casings.