“IF YOU GOTTA MAKE A LIVING DOING SOMETHING, I RECKON I’VE HAD A PRETTY GOOD GO OF IT,”

Jerry Hite tells me as he tends to his woodpile. Every other barbecue joint measures their output in terms of meat, be it in pounds, shoulders, hams, whatever. It would be very easy for Jerry to quantify his output in hogs, since he smokes the whole hog, but it is obvious his affinity is for the quality of his wood.

“A friend clears lots and brings us the hickory in thirty-foot sections. We cut them up exactly the way we like. On an average day, we will use two cords. Labor day, five. Fourth of July, ten.

“We’re only open for business two days a week, but the rest of the time we’re picking up supplies and ingredients. I’d rather pick them up. That way I can pick the best. It beats taking what they deliver.”

There are also other advantages. “If I hear that the fish are biting, I’m out on the lake,” Jerry notes.

“My father, John Sr., was a farmer, and occasionally he would cook a pig and sell the barbecue by the side of the road. He knew he had something, so he officially opened Hite’s Barbecue in 1957, and I helped him out. I guess I just don’t know any better. I freeze in the winter and burn up in the summer, but it’s all I’ve ever done.”

Hite’s is strictly a take-out business. There are no seats inside or even a picnic bench outside. They sell pork for you to take home and cook yourself, but don’t let that dissuade you from stopping by. I have found their barbecue sandwiches quite portable.

Brenda, Jerry’s wife, came aboard when they bought out John Sr. in 1968. She left her job with R.L. Bryan Company, an office supply and equipment outfit that also recovered schoolbooks. (Image 129)

Image 129

Despite being forced to rebuild due to a fire on the day before the nation’s bicentennial, not much has changed. However, they do have a lot more help today. Jerry and Brenda’s children (Bubba, David and Angie) are maintaining the family traditions, running a barbecue joint when not out fishing. (Image 130)

Image 130: Hite Bar-B-Que 240 Dreher Road • West Columbia, SC 29169 • (803)794-4120

BRENDA HITE’S TIP ON COOKING WITH FATBACK

Image 131

Fatback gives vegetables a smoky flavor and a creamy texture. It is especially good on any type of bean or green vegetable.

Slice off some fatback and fry in a pan until brown and crispy. The grease will render out. You can add a little bit of meat, but use 1 teaspoon of drippings per cup of vegetables.