“ISN’T GOD FUNNY?”
Flora Payne says with a chuckle. “This was my husband and mother-in-law’s idea, not mine. I’m just left.”
Payne’s Barbecue on Lamar opened for business in 1972. It is a converted gas station, just down the street from its original location. Flora runs it with help from Earl Parker, who has been there eighteen years. They keep busy. To say it is sparsely appointed would be an understatement. “We think about fixing it up, but we have never got around to it.”
Their menu is propped up on the floor in the corner. You go to a long window that says “Place Order Here” on the left and “Pay Here” on the right. From the window you can see the brick pit and an old Norge stove. (Image 139)
Image 139
Turn around and the dining area is a mass of mismatched tables and chairs. The service bay doors from its gas station days are now windows, and they are covered with large bamboo roll shades. There are a couple of artificial trees. If they were real, they would have choked on hickory smoke a long time ago. There are several small metal found-object sculptures donated by an appreciative customer.
There is also an award plaque from an obscure publication dated 1988, and that is about it. Flora is too modest to brag about herself. That is best left to her customers. Standing in line, a pair of local businessmen told me that both Memphis food critics independently rated hers number one. The New York Times anointed her “First Lady of Memphis Barbecue.”
The future is looking bright for Payne’s. Daughter Candace is taking a more active roll. “Mom was a little worried, but I never thought of anything else,” she tells me.
“My dad passed when I was eleven, so I kind of grew up here. I always enjoyed helping out and working alongside my mom and grandmother.”
Just a suggestion: When you do eventually take over, please, please don’t change a thing. (Image 140)
Image 140
OLD-FASHIONED CORNBREAD (NOT ON THEIR MENU)
Combine dry ingredients and mix well. Combine wet ingredients and mix well. Combine wet and dry ingredients. Bake at 400 degrees in a greased 12-inch black iron skillet for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. (Image 141)
Image 141: Payne’s Bar-B-Q 1762 Lamar Avenue • Memphis, TN 38114 • (901)272-1523