“HOW’S THE BRISKET TODAY, BOBBY?”
A man at the counter yells over to Bobby Mueller as he works at the chopping block. Not looking up, he hurls a piece of meat to that place in the front of the line. (Image 170)
Image 170
“I’ll have the brisket,” the man tells the woman at the cash box.
It must be a routine they have. Asking Bobby Mueller “How’s the brisket?” is like asking the Pope what religion he is.
The man tells me with a chuckle, “I’ve been coming here forever. I like to go sit over there by the business cards. If you look long and hard enough you’ll find one of mine from the 1970s.”
Louie Mueller came to Taylor from Collinsville, Illinois to open up a Safeway grocery store in the mid-1930s. He eventually opened up his own Red & White grocery store in 1946. To make sure their meat was always fresh, he made sausage from the trimmings, and sold barbecue. He lasted in the grocery business until 1974.
“Dad had too big of a heart and gave too many people credit,” says Bobby.
Growing up, Bobby always enjoyed helping out the family, but he didn’t expect to make this his life’s work. He went to Texas Christian University in Fort Worth to study business, followed by time in the service. Then he came back home and never left.
“I didn’t plan on it; it just kind of happened,” he tells me from one of the plywood tables.
Like so many things in life, plans just sort of happen. And if you do it well, hopefully you will get some recognition. If not, you take with you the satisfaction of knowing you did your best. (Image 171)
Image 171: Louie Mueller Barbecue 206 W 2nd Street • Taylor, TX 76574 • (512)352-6206
Bobby points to a table. “It was built by our handyman when we first moved here in 1951. It’s exactly four-foot square. Eight people can sit here comfortably.”
At that time some customers show up and Bobby excuses himself to serve them.
Upon closer inspection, the table is so simple—just a 4x8-foot sheet of plywood doubled over with trim and legs, and cured with half a century’s worth of mesquite smoke.
Bobby’s wife Trish remains. “He won’t brag on himself, but we got the James Beard Award. We heard about him, but didn’t know about his foundation. We found out just how prestigious it is. It was very exciting for us to go to the ceremony in New York to accept it.” (Image 172)
Image 172
BOBBY MUELLER’S POTATO SALAD
Boil potatoes with skins on in covered pot until done, between 60–90 minutes. Allow potatoes to cool in refrigerator or by running or soaking in cold water. When cool, peel and dice into desired-size chunks. Mix and mash everything together with a potato masher for that creamy/lumpy texture. Refrigerate at least 1 hour to set before serving.