LITTLE SAIGON MEATLOAF

image MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MOST OF THE VIETNAMESE DELIS here in Seattle do a pretty standard Asian-style meatloaf, and while they are delicious, I’ve long wanted to do a vegan version. Although you’re likely familiar with the flavors of a real down-home American meatloaf, giving it a Vietnamese twist by reaching for lemongrass stalks, galangal (see Chef’s Note), and small Asian eggplant makes this recipe truly stand out. At home we make this meatloaf and slice it to use on sandwiches throughout the week or break out the BBQ sauce and serve it warm with roasted potatoes and veggies. Admittedly, it’s very different from the meatloaf I grew up with, but it’s where I turn for comfort food today.

VEGETABLES

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons olive oil

¾ cup Asian eggplant, peeled and ¼-inch diced

1 (3-inch) section lemongrass stalk

½ cup minced onion

2 tablespoons minced galangal

1 tablespoon tamari

1 tablespoon vegan beef base

ADDITIONAL GRIND INGREDIENTS

2 cups Grain Meat Grind (here), ground

2½ tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons onion powder

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon star anise

½ teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon vegan Worcestershire sauce

BINDER

¼ cup coconut oil, melted

3 tablespoons olive oil

1¾ cups vital wheat gluten

ACTIVATOR

¼ cup water

EQUIPMENT

2 (6-inch) loaf pans

Steamer basket

1. In a skillet over medium heat, heat the sesame and olive oil and add all the vegetable ingredients, including the base. Sauté, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the mixture from the skillet to a large mixing bowl.

2. Add the grind and its additional ingredients to the vegetables in the mixing bowl, and stir to combine.

3. In a bowl, combine the binder ingredients and mix well with a spoon. The mixture should become thick like batter.

4. Scoop the binder mixture over the grind mixture. Combine the mixtures thoroughly by hand. Do not skip this step, or add water beforehand, or the recipe will not work.

5. When the mixtures are fully combined, sprinkle the activator water over the top and mix again, using your hands.

6. Form the mixture into two equal-size loaves and transfer to the loaf pans.

7. Steam the loaves in a steamer basket over 4 inches of water for 2 hours, monitoring the amount of water in the pot below and adding more, if needed. Remove from the steamer, and allow to fully cool. When the loaves are cool, they may be glazed and roasted, sliced for sandwiches, or used for another recipe.

CHEF’S NOTE: Galangal is essentially Thai ginger and is a bit spicier and more pungent than traditional fresh ginger. It’s available at most Asian food markets and natural foods stores. If you have trouble finding it, feel free to use regular fresh ginger instead. For tips on working with lemongrass, see here.

BOUND BY GLUTEN

Generally when we make grain meats, we incorporate all the ingredients with the fat, adding the gluten last to make sure they bind together into a cohesive mixture. Why? Because when the water hits the gluten, the gluten becomes activated and everything begins to come together. The proteins contained in the vital wheat gluten react with the water and begin to align, forming tight elastic bonds that keep our meats from falling apart. Unlike our general grain meat method (see note here) with our meatloaf, burger, and pâté recipes we want to get the gluten bonded with the fat first, before we add the water; we add the fat straight to the gluten and mix to make it pourable. Then, when we add the water and activate the gluten, the fat is distributed evenly throughout. This results in juicy, fattier meats, whose fat will remain attached to the protein during cooking, rather than running out. This method is responsible for those great burger characteristics: superjuicy, grillable, meaty texture that tastes really, really great.