|
Inperiaru Murasaki |
Purple, or murasaki, is a most universal color—a perfect foil for literally all other colors. Gromwell root, the source for murasaki dye, produced a wide range of purples. It was difficult to work with and was therefore reserved for royalty and those of high rank. With time, the initial saturation of the color tended to fade to a softer patina that was every bit as rich as its bold beginning.
The merino-linen blend I used for this kimono produces an exquisite knitted fabric that combines matte and shiny in a heathered texture. It recalls the aura of genteel aging. This slightly fitted sleeveless top has a stand-up collar and a Fair Isle band that defines a subtle curve from center front neck to right hip and hides a placket opening at the neck. The fine gauge yields a lightweight knitted fabric that is suitable for year-round wearing.
About 38 (43½)" (96.5 [110.5]cm) in circumference and 23¼ (25¾)" (59 [65.5] cm) in length. Top shown measures 38" (96.5 cm).
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
Shown here: Louet MerLin Sport (60% wet-spun linen, 40% merino; 250 yd [229 m]/100 g): #45 violet (MC), 4 (5) skeins; #44 sandalwood (A) and #68 steel grey (B), 1 skein each.
Size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir) and extra needle the same size or smaller for three-needle bind-off.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Stitch holders; removable markers; two ¼" (6 mm) sew-on snaps; sewing needle and matching thread; tapestry needle.
24 stitches and 34 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch.
LINEN STITCH (panel of 8 sts)
ROW 1 (WS) [Sl 1 pwise wyb, p1] 3 times, sl 1 pwise wyb, k1.
ROW 2 (RS) Knit.
ROW 3 [P1, sl 1 pwise wyb] 3 times, p1, k1.
ROW 4 Knit.
Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.
With MC, CO 134 (152) sts. Do not join. Work variation of linen st as foll:
ROW 1 (WS) P1, *sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), p1; rep from * to last st, p1.
ROWS 2 AND 4 Knit.
ROW 3 P2, *sl 1 pwise wyb, p1; rep from *. Rep Rows 1–4 once more, then rep Rows 1–3 once again.
DEC ROW 1 (RS) *K7, ssk, k7, k2tog; rep from * 6 (7) more times, k8—14 (16) sts dec’d; 120 (136) sts rem.
Cont in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) until piece measures 3 (4)" (7.5 [10] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
DEC ROW 2 (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Work 5 rows even. Rep the last 6 rows 5 more times—108 (124) sts rem. Cont even until piece measures 10 (11)" (25.5 [28] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
INC ROW (RS) K1, right lifted increase in next st (RLI; see Glossary), knit to last st, left lifted increase (LLI; see Glossary), k1—2 sts inc’d.
Work 9 rows even. Rep the last 10 rows 2 more times—114 (130) sts. Cont even until piece measures 16 (17½)" (40.5 [44.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
BO 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of the foll 4 rows—100 (116) sts rem.
DEC ROW (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Work 1 (WS) row even. Rep the last 2 rows 2 more times—94 (110) sts rem. Rep dec row every 4th row 6 times—82 (98) sts rem. Cont even until armholes measure 6¾ (7¾)" (17 [19.5] cm), ending with a WS row.
(RS) K29 (36), BO 24 (26) sts, knit to end—29 (36) sts rem each side.
Purl 1 row. At neck edge, BO 9 sts, knit to end—20 (27) sts rem. Purl 1 row. Place sts on holder.
With WS facing, join yarn at neck edge. BO 9 sts pwise, purl to end—20 (27) sts rem. Work 2 rows even. Place sts on holder.
CO and work as for back until armholes measure 2 (3)" (5 [7.5] cm), ending with a WS row.
NOTE Cont armhole shaping as established while working placket and neck shaping. Place a removable marker before and after the center 8 sts to mark placket placement.
Work to first m, remove m, place sts on left needle onto holder for right neck. Working back and forth on left neck sts only, work until armhole measures 4 (5)" (10 [12.5] cm), ending with a RS row. At neck edge (beg of WS rows), BO 5 sts once, then BO 3 sts 2 times, then BO 2 sts 2 times—22 (30) sts rem.
DEC ROW (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—1 st dec’d.
Rep dec row every RS row 1 (2) more time(s)—20 (27) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7¼ (8¼)" (18.5 [21] cm). Place sts on holder.
Place right neck sts onto needle. With RS facing, join yarn to neck edge. Work 1 (RS) row.
NEXT ROW (WS) Purl to m, work in linen st (see Stitch Guide) to end.
Cont in patt, working 8 sts at center front in linen st and rem sts in St st, until armhole measures 3¾ (4¾)" (9.5 [12] cm), ending with a WS row. At neck edge (beg of RS rows), BO 8 sts once, then BO 5 sts once, then BO 3 sts 2 times, then BO 2 sts 2 times—22 (30) sts rem. Work 1 (WS) row.
DEC ROW (RS) K1, k2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d.
Rep dec row every RS row 1 (2) more time(s)—20 (27) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7¼ (8¼)" (18.5 [21] cm). Place sts on holder.
Place 20 (27) sts for right back shoulder onto one needle and 20 (27) sts for right front shoulder onto another needle. With RS tog, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO 20 (27) right front and back sts tog for right shoulder. Rep for left shoulder.
With B, RS facing, and beg at base of armhole, pick up and knit 90 (102) sts along armhole edge. Do not join. Knit 1 row. Change to A and knit 1 row. With A and WS facing, BO all sts kwise.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and using the mattress st with ½-st seam allowance (see Glossary), sew side seams.
With B and beg after placket on right front neck edge, pick up and knit 24 sts along right front neck edge, 42 (44) sts across back neck, and 24 sts along left front neck edge—90 (92) sts total. Knit 1 (WS) row. Change to A and knit 1 row.
ROWS 1, 5, AND 7 (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), *sl 1 pwise wyb, p1; rep from * to last st, p1.
ROWS 2, 4, AND 8 Sl 1 kwise wyb, knit to end.
ROWS 3, 9, 11, 13, AND 15 Sl 1 pwise wyf, *p1, sl 1 pwise wyb; rep from * to last st, p1.
ROWS 6, 10, 12, 14, AND 16 Sl 1 kwise wyb, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d; 80 (82) sts rem after Row 16.
ROW 17 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to last st, p1—1 garter ridge on RS.
ROW 1 Sl 1 kwise wyb, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 1 st, knit to last st, use the backward-loop method to CO 1 st, k1—2 sts inc’d.
ROW 2 Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to end. Rep the last 2 rows 2 more times—86 (88) sts. Slipping the first st of every row as established, cont in St st until facing measures the same length as the collar, ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Fold collar at garter ridge with WS tog.
With A threaded on a tapestry needle, whipstitch (see Glossary) facing to WS. To secure layers tog, work a running st (see Glossary) along each end of collar inside the slipped edge sts.
Weave in loose ends. Steam-press garment with iron set for linen. Let cool completely before moving.
With A and leaving a 3 (3¼) yd (2.7 [3] m) tail, use the long-tail method (see Glossary) to CO 168 (184) sts. Working the first 2 and last 2 sts in garter st (knit every row) with A, work the center 164 (180) sts according to Rows 1–13 of Fair Isle chart. With A, k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2. With RS facing, BO all sts pwise. Cut yarn, leaving a 36 (38)" (91.5 [96.5] cm) tail for seaming.
Press band from front and back, steaming heavily. Let cool completely before moving.
Beg just below collar, pin band onto front of garment, attaching only to left front to base of placket, then attaching both edges straight down from neck for about 3" (7.5 cm) below lower edge of placket, then curving toward right hip, ending at bottom of side seam with selvedge edge of band aligning with CO edge of front. With CO tail threaded on a tapestry needle, whipstitch band in place as invisibly as possible, catching 1 strand of CO edge and leaving the garter ridge evident. Rep for BO tail and BO edge.
With sewing needle and matching thread, sew prong side of each snap to WS of Fair Isle band—one at the corner and the other 1" (2.5 cm) below the first along the BO edge. Sew the other sides of snaps to linen-st edge of placket.
Fair Isle
