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Asian Asymmetry |
Blue is a Japanese fashion color appropriate for late summer through winter. From sky blue to slate to deep navy, blue can be cool and serene or vivid and electric, as is the cobalt I used here.
Short sleeves, a stand-up collar, and an asymmetrical closure are all Asian design hallmarks, although perhaps not specifically Japanese. With a slight flare from bust to hip for a flattering fit, the twisted rib at the lower edge, neckband, and center sleeve is all the stitch texture that’s needed. The yarn takes care of the rest of the visual appeal through a combination of matte and glossy twisted cotton that produces a subtle sheen similar to that found in one-color brocade weaves. The faux asymmetrical opening is, in fact, a V-neck—the neckband is sewn onto the front of the garment by hand.
This top is a strong statement individually and looks fabulous paired with the Nishiki kimono (page 56), where the blue really comes alive.
About 36 (40, 44)" (91.5 [101.5, 112] cm) chest circumference and 19½ (21, 22½)" (49.5 [53.5, 57] cm) in length. Top shown measures 36" (91.5 cm).
DK weight (#3 Light).
Shown here: Filatura di Crosa Brilla (42% cotton, 58% viscose rayon; 120 yd [110 m]/50 g): #393 royal blue, 8 (10, 11) balls.
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir) and extra needle the same size or smaller for three-needle bind-off.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Markers (m); stitch holders; size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle.
23 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch.
CO 115 (127, 139) sts. Do not join.
ROW 1 (WS) *P1 through back loop (p1tbl), k1 through back loop (k1tbl); rep from * to last st, p1tbl.
ROW 2 *K1tbl, p1tbl; rep from * to last st, k1tbl.
Rep rows 1 and 2 until piece measures ¾" (2 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) and work even until piece measures 2" (5 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
DEC ROW K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Work even in St st for 13 rows. Rep the last 14 rows 5 more times—103 (115, 127) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 12 (13, 14)" (30.5 [33, 35.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 2 rows—91 (103, 115) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every RS row 4 (6, 7) times—83 (91, 101) sts rem. Work even until armholes measure 7½ (8, 8½)" (19 [20.5, 21.5] cm), ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder.
CO and work as for back until armholes measure 1¾ (2, 2¼)" (4.5 [5, 5.5] cm), ending with a RS row—83 (91, 101) sts.
DIVIDING ROW (WS) P41 (45, 50) and place these 41 (45, 50) sts on holder to work later for right neck, p2tog, p40 (44, 49)—41 (45, 50) sts rem for left neck.
Work 41 (45, 50) left neck sts as foll:
ROW 1 (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d.
ROW 2 Purl.
Rep these 2 rows 20 (21, 23) more times—20 (23, 26) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures same as back. Place sts on holder.
Transfer 41 (45, 50) held sts onto needle and join yarn at center front edge.
ROW 1 (RS) K1, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d.
ROW 2 Purl.
Rep these 2 rows 20 (21, 23) more times—20 (23, 26) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures same as back. Place sts on holder.
CO 75 (85, 91) sts. Do not join.
ROW 1 (WS) *P1tbl, k1tbl; rep from * to last st, p1tbl.
ROW 2 *K1tbl, p1tbl; rep from * to last st, k1tbl.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures ¾" (2 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
INC ROW (RS) K1f&b, k31 (36, 39), place marker (pm), k1tbl, [p1tbl, k1tbl] 5 times, pm, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—77 (87, 93) sts.
NEXT ROW (WS) Purl to m, slip marker (sl m), p1tbl, [k1tbl, p1tbl] 5 times, sl m, purl to end.
Work even, keeping the center 11 sts in twisted rib as established until piece measures 1½" (3.8 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
INC ROW (RS) K1f&b, work in patt to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Work even until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO, ending with a WS row, then work inc row once more—81 (91, 97) sts. Work even until piece measures (3½, 4)" (7.5 [9, 10] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.
NOTE Stitch pattern changes at the same time as the cap is shaped; read all the way through the foll section before proceeding. BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of next 6 rows—61 (71, 77) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every RS row 7 (11, 13) times—47 (49, 51) sts rem. BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll 4 rows—31 (33, 35) sts rem. BO 5 sts at beg of foll 2 rows—21 (23, 25) sts rem. BO all sts.
At the same time when piece measures (4½, 5)" (10 [11.5, 12.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row, work as foll:
ROW 1 (RS) Knit to m, remove m, k2, pm, work 7 sts in twisted rib as established, pm, k2, remove m, knit to end.
ROW 2 Purl to m, sl m, work 7 sts in twisted rib as established, sl m, purl to end.
Work center twisted rib patt until piece measures 5 (5½, 6)" (12.5 [14, 15] cm) from CO. Discontinue twisted rib and work in St st to end of sleeve cap.
CO 18 sts.
ROW 1 (WS) K1, [p1tbl, k1tbl] 8 times, p1.
ROW 2 (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), [p1tbl, k1tbl] 8 times, p1.
Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 28 (30, 33)" (71 [76, 84] cm) from CO. Leave sts on needle until most of the neckband has been sewn on to ensure the band is the correct length.
Place 83 (91, 101) held back sts onto one needle and 20 (23, 26) held right front sts onto another needle. With RS tog, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO 20 (23, 26) right front and 20 (23, 26) back sts tog for right shoulder, then BO the next 43 (45, 49) back sts as usual, then place 20 (23, 26) held left front sts onto second needle and BO 20 (23, 26) left front sts tog with rem 20 (23, 26) back sts for left shoulder.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st with ½-st seam allowance (see Glossary) to sew side and sleeve seams. With a crochet hook, use slip st crochet (see Glossary) to join sleeve cap to armhole, matching side and sleeve seams and matching center sleeve cap to shoulder seam, easing in fullness at cap as necessary and working from the body (not the sleeve) side of the join.
Turn garment RS out and pin the non-slipped st selvedge edge of the neckband to neck opening, beg at the right front V, working across the back neck, and ending at the left front V, stretching slightly to eliminate ripples. Angle the remaining neckband across the body to just under the right armhole. Knit or remove extra rows as necessary to achieve correct length. BO all sts in patt. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st with ½-st seam allowance from the neckline and capturing the purl bump on the edge of the neckband to sew band in place around the neck opening. Use a running st (see Glossary) to secure the neckband onto the right front of the garment across the body to the armhole, stitching the BO end of the band in line with the side seam.
Lightly steam-block seams.
