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Tokai Tomoshibi |
Glossy rayon fiber winks like city lights on a dark mohair ground in the yarn I chose for this dressy kimono. Historically, black was not often used in the Japanese color palette, except to symbolize sorrow and bereavement. In contemporary life, both Eastern and Western, black is a wardrobe staple and is a bold expression of sophistication. The sparks of color in this black kimono visually lighten the aura and exponentially expand ensemble possibilities. Wear it over richly saturated colors such as the brilliant teal Ao (page 38) to magnify the rich bits of color in the yarn.
Fans are widely used in Japanese life, from small personal ones to large exquisitely painted works of art for interior walls. I used a pattern with a stylized fan motif to add a subtle overall texture to this garment. Lace openwork at the hem and sleeve cuffs affords a lovely counterpoint. Light as air, this gossamer kimono is magical.
About 42½ (49½, 56½)" (108 [125.5, 143.5] cm) bust circumference–39¾ (46¾, 53¾)" garment plus a 2¾" (7 cm) gap at center front–and about 27 (28, 29)" (68.5 [71, 73.5] cm) in length. Kimono shown measures 49½" (125.5 cm).
DK weight (#3 Light).
Shown here: Stacy Charles Ritratto (28% mohair, 53% rayon, 10% nylon, 9% polyester; 198 yd [181 m]/50 g): #14 black/bright multi, 9 (10, 11) balls.
Body and sleeves: size U.S. 6 (4 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir).
Garter ridges: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 24" (60 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Markers (m); waste yarn or stitch holders; tapestry needle.
23 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in fan stitch on larger needle.
CHEVRON LACE PATTERN (multiple of 7 sts + 2)
ROW 1 (RS) K1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
ROW 2 Purl.
ROW 3 K1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * to last st, k1
ROW 4 Purl.
Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.
FAN STITCH (multiple of 10 sts + 2)
ROWS 1–12 Work in St st.
ROW 13 (RS) K1, *insert needle into st 4 rows below third st on left needle, draw through a loop long enough to span the 4 rows without pulling, leave loop on right needle, k3, draw a loop through same st (4 rows below), k2, then make a third long loop into same st (4 rows below), k5; rep from * to last st, k1.
ROW 14 P1, *p5, purl long loop and next st tog, p1, purl long loop and next st tog, p1, ssp (purling next st and long loop tog so long loop lays on top; see Glossary); rep from * to last st, p1.
ROWS 15–26 Work in St st (12 rows).
ROW 27 K1, *k5, insert right needle into st 4 rows below third st on left needle and draw a loop through, k3, draw a loop through same st (4 rows below), k2, then make a third long loop into same st (4 rows below); rep from * to last st, k1.
ROW 28 P1, *purl long loop and next st tog, p1, purl long loop and next st tog, p1, ssp, p5; rep from * to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 1–28 for pattern.
With larger needle, CO 121 (142, 163) sts. Do not join. Work chevron lace patt (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from CO, ending with Row 3 of patt. Change to smaller needle and purl 1 row. Knit 4 rows—2 garter ridges. Knit 1 row, inc 1 (inc 0, dec 1) st—122 (142, 162) sts. Change to larger needle and purl 1 row. Work fan st (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 27 (28, 29)" (68.5 [71, 73.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Place all sts on waste yarn holder.
With larger needle, CO 44 (51, 58) sts. Do not join. Work chevron lace patt until piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from CO, ending with Row 3 of patt. Change to smaller needle and purl 1 row, then knit 4 rows—2 garter ridges. Knit 1 row, dec 2 (inc 1, inc 4) st(s) evenly spaced—42 (52, 62) sts. Change to larger needle and purl 1 row. Change to fan st and work even until piece measures 27 (28, 29)" (68.5 [71, 73.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. Place all sts on waste yarn holder.
With larger needle, CO 52 sts (for lower edge of the front of the sleeve). Do not join. Work fan st until piece measures 30 (32, 34)" (76 [81.5, 86.5] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row. BO all sts (this is the lower edge of the back of the sleeve).
With smaller needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 170 (184, 198) sts evenly spaced along right-hand selvedge edge. Knit 2 rows. With WS facing, BO all sts—2 garter ridges on RS. With smaller needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 170 (184, 198) sts evenly spaced along left-hand selvedge edge. Knit 3 rows. Work Row 1 of chevron lace patt. Change to larger needle and cont in chevron lace patt for about 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with Row 4 of patt. BO all sts in k1, p1 rib.
CO and work as for right sleeve.
With smaller needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 170 (184, 198) sts evenly spaced along left-hand selvedge edge. Knit 2 rows. With WS facing, BO all sts—2 garter ridges on RS. With smaller needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 170 (184, 198) sts evenly spaced along right-hand selvedge edge. Knit 3 rows. Work Row 1 of chevron lace patt. Change to larger needle and cont in chevron lace patt for about 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with Row 4 of patt. BO all sts in k1, p1 rib.
Weave in loose ends. Wet-block (see Glossary) all pieces to measurements. Let dry completely.
Place 122 (142, 162) held back sts onto one needle and 42 (52, 62) held right front sts onto another needle. With RS tog and larger needle, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO 42 (52, 62) right front and back sts tog for right shoulder, then BO next 38 sts for back neck, then place 42 (52, 62) held left front sts onto second needle and use the three-needle method to BO 42 (52, 62) left front and rem back sts tog for left shoulder.
With smaller needle, CO 15 sts. Work in seed st as foll:
ROW 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep this row until piece measures 59 (61, 63)" (150 [155, 160] cm) from CO. BO all sts in patt. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew neckband to garment, using a mattress st with 1-st seam allowance (see Glossary) on garment and catching purl sts on the seed st edge of the neckband. Steam-block lightly to set sts.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and using a mattress st with 1-st seam allowance, sew side seams for 16" (40.5 cm) from lower edge. Use horizontal-to-horizontal grafting (see Glossary) to join CO to BO edges of sleeves. Lightly steam-block to set sts. Align midpoint of sleeve top with shoulder seam and pin sleeve to garment body for 9 (10, 11)" (23 [25.5, 28] cm) down from shoulder on both front and back (bottom of sleeve will remain free). Sew sleeve in place.
Steam-block lightly to set sts.
