Chapter 4: Suggested Belize Itineraries

Don’t be fooled by its size—there’s a lot to see and do in Belize. And the fact that the country is so compact makes it easy to see and do a lot in a short time. Still, many visitors simply come for a solid week of rest and relaxation, fishing and/or scuba diving at a beach or island resort, without ever getting to know the rest of the country. The following itineraries are meant to serve as rough outlines to help you structure your time and get a taste of some of the country’s must-see destinations. Other options include specialized itineraries focused on a particular interest or activity. Bird-watchers could design an itinerary that visits a series of prime bird-watching sites. Cave enthusiasts and spelunkers could design a trip to take in several of Belize’s caves, including both wet and dry cave explorations.

Belize

The Regions in Brief

Belize City Belize City is a modest-size coastal port city located at the mouth of the Belize River. Although it’s no longer the official governmental seat, Belize City remains the most important city—culturally, economically, and historically—in the country. It is also Belize’s transportation hub, with the only international airport, an active municipal airport, a cruise-ship dock, and all the major bus-line and water-taxi terminals. Still, Belize City is of limited interest to most visitors, who quickly seek the more provincial and pastoral charms of the country’s various tourist destinations and resorts. Belize City has a reputation as a rough and violent urban center, and visitors should exercise caution and stick to the most popular tourist areas of this small city.

The Northern Cayes & Atolls This is Belize’s primary tourist zone and attraction. Hundreds of palm-swept offshore islands lie between the coast of the mainland and the protection of the 298km (185-mile) Belize Barrier Reef. The reef, easily visible from many of the cayes, offers some of the world’s most exciting snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing. The most developed cayes here, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, have numerous hotels and small resorts, while some of the less developed cayes maintain the feel of fairy-tale desert isles. In addition to the many cayes, there are two open-ocean atolls here, Turneffe Island Atoll and Lighthouse Reef Atoll. Each of these unique rings of coral, limestone, and mangrove cayes surrounds a central, protected saltwater lagoon.

For those whose main sport is catching rays, not fish, it should be mentioned that the cayes, and Belize in general, lack wide, sandy beaches. Although the water is as warm and clear blue as it’s touted to be, most of your sunbathing will be on docks, deck chairs, or imported patches of sand fronting a sea wall or sea-grass patch of shallow ocean. Also, note that there are still no large-scale all-inclusive resorts like those found throughout much of the rest of the Caribbean.

Southern Belize Southern Belize encompasses two major districts, Stann Creek and Toledo. The former includes the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary and the coastal towns of Dangriga, Hopkins Village, and Placencia. Dangriga is the country’s major center of Garífuna culture, while Hopkins Village is a quaint, oceanfront Garífuna village, and Placencia boasts what is arguably the country’s best beach. Farther south, the Toledo District is Belize’s final frontier. The inland hills and jungles are home to numerous Kekchi and Mopan Mayan villages. Hidden in these hills are some lesser known and less visited Mayan ruins, including Lubaantun and Nim Li Punit. The Toledo District is also emerging as an ecotourism destination, with the country’s richest, wettest, and most undisturbed rainforests. Off the shores of southern Belize lie more cayes and yet another mid-ocean atoll, Glover’s Reef Atoll. The cayes down here get far less traffic and attention than those to the north, and they are perfect for anyone looking for all of the same attractions, but fewer crowds.

Northern Belize Anchored on the south by Belize City, this is the country’s business and agricultural heartland. Toward the north lie Orange Walk Town and Corozal Town. Both of these small cities have a strong Spanish feel and influence, having been settled largely by refugees from Mexico’s Caste War. The Maya also lived here, and their memories live on at the ruins of Altun Ha, Lamanai, Cerros, and Santa Rita, all in this zone. This is a land that was once submerged and is still primarily swamp and mangrove. Where the land is cleared and settled, sugar cane is the main cash crop, although bananas, citrus fruits, and pineapples are also grown. Toward the western section of this region lies the Río Bravo Conservation Area, a massive tract of virgin forest, sustainable-yield managed forest, and recovering reforestation areas. Northern Belize has some of the country’s premier isolated nature lodges, as well as some of the prime destinations for bird-watchers, including the Shipstern Nature Reserve and Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary.

The Cayo District & Western Belize This mountainous district near the Guatemalan border has become Belize’s second-most-popular destination. Here you’ll find some of Belize’s most beautiful countryside and most fascinating natural and man-made sights. The limestone mountains of this region are dotted with numerous caves, sinkholes, jagged peaks, underground rivers, and waterfalls. There are clear-flowing aboveground rivers that are excellent for swimming and canoeing, as well as mile after mile of unexplored forest full of wild animals and hundreds of bird species. Adventurers, nature lovers, and bird-watchers will definitely want to spend some time in the Cayo District. This is also where you’ll find Belize’s largest and most impressive Mayan ruins. In the remote Mountain Pine Ridge section of the Cayo District lies Caracol, one of the largest known Classic Maya cities ever uncovered. Closer to the main town of San Ignacio, you’ll find Xunantunich, Pilar and the smaller Cahal Pech.

Tikal & Guatemala’s Peten Just over Belize’s western border lies Guatemala’s Petén province, a massive and remote area of primary forest and perhaps Mesoamerica’s most spectacular Maya ruin, Tikal. The level of preservation, restoration, and rich rainforest setting make Tikal one of the true wonders of the world, and an enchanting stop for anyone even remotely interested in the ancient Maya or archaeology. The surrounding jungles and small Guatemalan villages are easily accessible from Belize and allow travelers the chance to add yet another unique adventure to any itinerary.

Belize in 1 Week

The timing is tight, but this itinerary packs a trio of Belize’s best destinations into 1 week. It allows for a chance to visit a major Maya ruin, snorkel on the barrier reef, ride an inner tube on an underground river, and relax a bit on the beach.

Belize in 1 Week & 2 Weeks

Day 1: Arrive & Head to Placencia

Arrive in Belize City and grab a quick connecting flight to Placencia ★★. Spend the afternoon strolling along the beach and the town’s famous sidewalk. For dinner, try the tapas and fusion fare served up at Rumfish y Vino ★★. Then head back to the sidewalk after dinner, and enjoy some time mingling with locals and tourists alike at the Barefoot Beach Bar ★.

Day 2: Way Down upon the Monkey River

In the morning, take a tour on the Monkey River ★, where you’re sure to see a rich array of wildlife. In the afternoon you can treat yourself to a spa treatment or get some snorkeling in. For dinner, head to the Maya Beach Hotel Bistro ★★★.

Day 3: Cayo Calling

Fly back to Belize City and pick up a rental car for the drive to the Cayo District ★★. Stop at the Belize Zoo ★★ or for a cave tubing adventure near Jaguar Paw en route. Settle into one of the hotels in San Ignacio or one of the lodges located out on the way to Benque Viejo. If there’s time, take an afternoon tour to the ruins at Xunantunich ★★. For dinner, be sure to treat yourself to the creative cuisine offered up by chef Sean Kuylen at La Ceiba ★★★.

Day 4: Climbing Caana

Wake up very early and head to the Mayan ruins at Caracol ★★, stopping at the Río on Pools ★★ and Río Frío Cave on your way back to San Ignacio.

Days 5 & 6: Fly to the Cayes

Head for the cayes. Choose between Caye Caulker ★★★, with its intimate funky charm, and Ambergris Caye ★★, with its wide choice of hotels, resorts, and restaurants. A whole range of activities and adventures awaits you here. Be sure to try the snorkel trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★ and Shark-Ray Alley ★★. You can also just chill in the sun and sand.

Day 7: Going Home

Return to Belize City in time for your international connection. If you have time, stop off at the Belize Tourism Village to do some last-minute shopping before you go.

Belize in 2 Weeks

If you have 2 weeks, you’ll be able to hit all the highlights mentioned above, as well as some others, including a side trip to the ruins of Tikal, in neighboring Guatemala. And you can do all this at a slightly more relaxed pace to boot.

Day 1: Arrive & Head to Placencia

Arrive into Belize City and grab a quick connecting flight to Placencia ★★. Spend the afternoon strolling along the beach and the town’s famous sidewalk. For dinner, try the tapas and fusion fare served up at Rumfish y Vino ★★. Then head back to the sidewalk after dinner, and enjoy some time mingling with locals and tourists alike at the Barefoot Beach Bar ★.

Day 2: Way Down upon the Monkey River

Take a tour on the Monkey River ★, where you’re sure to see a rich array of wildlife. In the afternoon, treat yourself to a spa treatment, followed by dinner at the Maya Beach Hotel Bistro ★★★.

Day 3: Get Wet & Wild

Take a snorkel trip to Laughing Bird Caye ★★ and enjoy a picnic lunch on this tiny little gem of an island. If you happen to be here during whale-shark season, swap out the Laughing Bird Caye trip for a chance to snorkel or scuba dive with the world’s largest fish. In the afternoon, visit the small Garífuna village of Seine Bight.

Day 4: Punta Gorda

Fly down to the remote town of Punta Gorda in the far southern reaches of Belize. Get there in time to head out into the nearby mountains, where you’ll find several small Mayan villages. Visit the village of San Antonio, and then head on to Blue Creek ★★, where you’ll find a beautiful swimming hole in a forested river that flows out from a jungle cave. Earth Runnins’ Café ★ is a great place for dinner and drinks. If you’re lucky, there might just be a live band playing.

Days 5 & 6: Cayo Calling

Fly back to Belize City and pick up a rental car for the drive to the Cayo District ★★. Stop at the Belize Zoo ★★ or for a cave tubing adventure near Jaguar Paw en route. Settle into one of the hotels in San Ignacio or one of the lodges located out on the way to Benque Viejo. If you have time, take an afternoon tour to the ruins at Xunantunich ★★ or a gentle canoe trip on the Macal River. If you didn’t visit Xunantunich the previous afternoon, you’ll want to stop in on Day 6. You’ll also want to check out the Belize Botanic Gardens ★★ or the nearby Chaa Creek Natural History Museum and Rainforest Medicine Trail ★. If you’re hardy, you can visit both. At least 1 night you should splurge on a dinner at La Ceiba ★★★ at the Ka’ana Resort. The other night, I recommend hanging around downtown San Ignacio and trying the bar food and wood-oven pizzas at Mr. Greedy’s Pizzeria ★★, or the eclectic mix of Belizean, Indian, and Pan Asian cuisine served up at Ko-Ox Han-Nah ★.

Days 7 & 8: Tikal Time

Take a 2-day/1-night trip to Tikal ★★★. Stay at one of the lodges right at the ruins. Get an early start in order to beat the crowds and because the ruins here are so extensive. Make sure you set aside plenty of time to explore the amazing ruins here, but also schedule some time to enjoy the quaint little island city of Flores. Return to Belize in the afternoon, and head to the Mountain Pine Ridge ★★ area, staying either at Blancaneaux Lodge ★★★ or Five Sisters Lodge ★.

Day 9: Climb Caana

Visit the ruins at Caracol ★★ and climb to the top of the tallest man-made structure in Belize. Stop at the Rio Frio Cave and Río on Pools ★★ on your way back from the ruins.

Days 10, 11 & 12: Go Slow on Caye Caulker

It’s time to head to funky Caye Caulker ★★★. Be sure to try the snorkel trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★ and Shark-Ray Alley ★★ while you’re in the area. If you haven’t gotten your fill of Mayan ruins, you can do a day trip to Lamanai ★★. Any extra time you have you can use to chill in the sun and sand.

Days 13 & 14: Massage Your Muscles with Mud

Finish your trip off with some decadent pampering at the Maruba Resort Jungle Spa ★★ before heading home from Belize City.

Belize for Families

Belize doesn’t have any large resorts with well-staffed children’s programs, nor will you find many activities or attractions specifically geared for the very young. Still, this English-speaking country is a great destination for families, especially if your children have an adventurous streak.

Belize for Families & Mayan Ruins Highlight Tour

Day 1: Head for Hopkins

Arrive into Belize City and head straight to Hopkins Village ★★★. Settle into a comfortable suite at Almond Beach Belize & Jaguar Reef Lodge ★★.

Day 2: Go Garífuna

Sign up for a class in traditional Garífuna drumming and dancing at the Lebeha Drumming Center ★. When you and yours aren’t banging a drum, take advantage of the resort’s ample facilities and activity options, which include free use of the sea kayaks, Hobie Cats, and snorkel gear.

Days 3 & 4: A Nearly Deserted Island

Head out to South Water Caye ★★★. The island here is tiny, and the kids will no doubt fantasize about being stranded on a deserted island. The waters here are extremely calm and protected by the barrier reef, which lies just offshore. This is a great place to introduce the family to snorkeling, and to head out in individual or tandem kayaks.

Days 5 & 6: Into the Dark

On your way back north, stop off at Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch ★★. Accommodations here range from quite rustic to borderline luxurious. The folks here also offer adventure options that range from cushy to hard core. Most revolve around the surrounding forest and the area’s namesake river, which runs through a series of underground caves. You can do a cave tubing adventure, but I recommend their “waterfall cave” excursion.

Days 7, 8 & 9: Sun & Fun in San Pedro

Head for Ambergris Caye ★★, with its wide choice of hotels, resorts, and restaurants. A whole range of activities and adventures available for the family are here. Be sure to schedule in a snorkel trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★ and Shark-Ray Alley ★★. More adventurous members of the family can try parasailing or windsurfing. Reserve 1 day for a visit to the Mayan ruins at Lamanai ★★. You’ll also want to visit the Butterfly Jungle ★. Fly right from San Pedro to the international airport in Belize City in time for your return flight home.

Mayan Ruins Highlights

Belize boasts dozens of known Mayan ruins of varying sizes and in varying states of excavation and exploration. The following itinerary hits most of the major ruins, and even allows you some time to visit the cayes. You could easily add on a side trip to the northern or southern zones, where there are several lesser-known ruins.

Day 1: The Sleeping Crocodile

Arrive in Belize City and head straight to Lamanai, staying right next door to the ancient Mayan city at the Lamanai Outpost Lodge ★★. You’ll probably arrive in the afternoon. Save the ruins for the next day, but take a boat tour on the New River Lagoon around sunset, and you’ll see a host of bird species, and, most likely, a real crocodile or two.

Days 2 & 3: Life in Ruins

Spend the morning exploring the Lamanai ruins ★★. Get there early before the tour groups arrive, and enjoy the peace and quiet of the site. Have lunch at the hotel and then head over to Chan Chich Lodge ★★. Settle into your room here, which is set on the central plaza of a Mayan ruin. Spend the following day exploring the ruins at and around Chan Chich. If you have time, head over to nearby La Milpa ★, a large site with an active and ongoing excavation.

Days 4, 5 & 6: Cayo Calling

Head to the Cayo District ★★ and stay at one of the lodges in San Ignacio or on the way to Benque Viejo. Be sure to take a trip to Actun Tunichil Muknal ★★★. This tour takes almost a full day. Still, in the afternoon, you can squeeze in a visit to Cahal Pech, which is right in the town of San Ignacio. Over the next 2 days, you can visit the ruins of Xunantunich ★★, El Pilar ★★, and the Mayan ceremonial burial cave at Chechem Ha ★. Caving is hard work, so be sure to treat yourself, at least 1 night, to the creative cuisine offered up by chef Sean Kuylen at La Ceiba ★★★.

Day 7 & 8: Tikal Time

Take a 2-day/1-night trip to Tikal ★★★. Stay at one of the lodges right at the ruins. Get an early start in order to beat the crowds and because the ruins here are so extensive. Make sure you set aside plenty of time to explore the amazing ruins here, but also schedule some time to enjoy the quaint little island city of Flores. Return to Belize in the afternoon of Day 8, and head to the Mountain Pine Ridge ★★ area, staying at either Blancaneaux Lodge ★★★ or Five Sisters Lodge ★.

Day 9: Caracol

Get an early start for your visit of the ruins at Caracol ★★. And remember, at one point, Caracol defeated Tikal in battle. Stop at the Río Frío Cave and Río on Pools ★★ on your way back from the ruins.

Days 10 & 11: Enjoying the Cayes

Unwind for a couple of days on Ambergris Caye ★★. If you didn’t get to visit Altun Ha ★ during your inland stint, you can easily visit as a day tour by boat and take a minivan from here. You can also arrange boat trips to the tiny ruins of Chac Balam in the Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve ★ or to Cerros outside Corozal.

Day 12: Heading Home

Return to Belize City in time for your international connection.

Belize City in 1 Day

While most tourists seek to avoid Belize City entirely—and I pretty much advise as much in this book—if you plan properly, Belize City can actually serve well as a good base if you have only a few days in the country.

Belize City in 1 Day

Day 1: Getting to Know the City

Begin your day early at the Fort George Lighthouse and Baron Bliss Memorial, and follow the walking tour outlined on. When you reach the Commercial Center, be sure to stop in for a coffee and some fry jacks at Big Daddy’s Diner. After you finish the walking tour, head to the Museum of Belize ★★, the country’s premier historical museum. For lunch, take a taxi out to Old Belize ★, and sit down at their oceanside open-air Old Belize Bar & Grill. When you finish lunch, tour the small museum here in Old Belize, which offers a peek into various facets of the natural, cultural, and political history of the country, or take a swim and enjoy some beach time at their Cucumber Beach ★ area, which features a large saltwater swimming area and towering water slide.

At sunset, have a drink and some conch fritters at the Wet Lizard ★, 1 Fort St. ( 223-5973; ). This might just hold you over for the night.

After night falls, head to the Bird’s Isle Restaurant & Bar ★, a delightful open-air spot right next to the ocean. Most nights you’ll find either a live band or some lively karaoke. Another good option is the aptly named Riverside Tavern ★★. This place has a more pub feel to it. At both of these restaurants, the best seats are outdoors on a waterfront deck area.