Chapter 6: Belize City

Long ago stripped of its status as the country’s capital, Belize City remains Belize’s business, transportation, and cultural hub. Sooner or later you’ll spend at least some time here, unless you do all your in-country traveling by air or have a very precisely planned itinerary. For some, since the country itself is so small, Belize City makes a convenient base for a host of interesting day trips to most of the country’s major destinations and attractions.

Belize City

With a population of some 71,000, Belize City is surrounded on three sides by water, and at high tide it is nearly swamped. It’s a strange, dense warren of narrow streets and canals (the latter being little more than open sewers, and pretty pungent in hot weather), modern stores, dilapidated shacks, and quaint wooden mansions, coexisting in a seemingly chaotic jumble.

The city was originally settled by the ancient Mayans, who lived up and down the coast here. By the mid-1600s, pirates were using the current site of Belize City as a hideout and provisioning spot. Soon after, the British arrived and set up a logging base here, fueled by slave labor. Logs were harvested inland and floated down the Belize River for milling and shipping. This logging base soon became a colonial settlement and the seat of Britain’s colonial empire on the Central American isthmus. Belize City itself is said to sit on a foundation of wood chips, discarded ships’ ballast, and empty rum bottles.

Belize City has historically been beset by tragedy. The entire population abandoned the city and moved to St. George’s Caye in 1779 following a Spanish attack. The Baymen, as the British settlers called themselves, returned and resettled the city in 1784. Massive fires razed much of the city in 1804, 1806, and 1856. Deadly hurricanes inflicted heavy damage in 1931 and 1961. Between these events, the residents endured smallpox, yellow fever, and cholera epidemics. Belize City had been declared the capital of British Honduras in 1892, but after Hurricane Hattie struck in 1961, the country’s capital was relocated inland to Belmopan.

Despite a reputation for crime and violence, periodic devastation from passing hurricanes, and the loss of its capital status, Belize City remains the urban heart and soul of Belize. Most visitors treat Belize City merely as a transition point and transportation hub. This is probably what you’ll want to do, too. But if you’ve got a day or two to burn on a layover here, Belize City is a good place to walk around, admire the fleet of working wooden fish sloops, do some craft and souvenir shopping, and stock up on Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce to bring home with you.

Orientation

Arriving

By Plane

All international flights into Belize land at the Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport ( 225-2045; www.pgiabelize.com; airport code BZE), which is located 16km (10 miles) northwest of the city on the Northern Highway. See chapter 3 for details about airlines that service Belize City.

In the baggage claim area, there’s an information booth maintained by the Belize Tourist Board. This booth supplies maps and brochures, and will often make a call for you if you need a hotel or car-rental reservation. Inside the international departure terminal is a branch of Belize Bank ( 225-2107; www.belizebank.com), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 4pm. Across the parking lot, you’ll find car-rental and tour-agency desks, open daily from 8am to 9:30pm. A taxi into town will cost BZ$50 to BZ$60.

If you fly in from somewhere else in Belize, you’ll probably land at the Municipal Airport (airport code TZA), which is on the edge of town. A taxi from here costs just BZ$10 to most hotels in the city. There’s no bank or any other services at the Municipal Airport, although most car-rental agencies can arrange to have a car there for you. for taxi info.

There is no direct bus service to either airport.

By Car

There are only two highways into Belize City: the Northern Highway, which leads to the Mexican border (166km/103 miles away), and the Western Highway, which leads to the Guatemalan border (132km/82 miles away). Both are well-marked and in good driving condition. If you arrive by car from the north, stay on the road into town, paying close attention to one-way streets, and you’ll end up at the Swing Bridge. If you’re arriving on the Western Highway, stay on it after it becomes Cemetery Road, and you’ll end up at the intersection with Albert Street, a block away from the Swing Bridge.

By Bus

If you arrive in town by bus, you’ll probably end up at the main bus terminal on West Collet Canal Street. This is an easy walk to downtown, but it is not recommended after dark. A taxi from the bus station to any hotel in town will cost around BZ$8 to BZ$10; for taxi info.

Tip: For excellent info on bus travel around Belize, check out www.belizebus.wordpress.com.

Visitor Information

The Belize Tourist Board ( 800/624-0686 toll free in the U.S. and Canada, or 227-2420 in Belize; www.travelbelize.org) has its main office at 64 Regent St., in the heart of the business district of Belize City. If you missed their desk at the airport, they have another information desk here with regional brochures, basic maps, and a score of hotel and tour fliers; the office is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. Local travel agencies are another good source of information. Two in Belize City to try are Discovery Expeditions, 5916 Manatee Dr., Buttonwood Bay ( 223-0748; www.discoverybelize.com), and S&L Travel and Tours, 91 N. Front St. ( 227-7593; www.sltravelbelize.com).

City Layout

Belize City is surrounded on three sides by water, with Haulover Creek dividing the city in two. The Swing Bridge, near the mouth of Haulover Creek, is the main route between the two halves of the city, as well as the city’s principal landmark. At the south end of the bridge is Market Square and the start of Regent Street and Albert Street. This is where you’ll find most of Belize City’s shops and offices. To the west and east of these two major roads is a grid of smaller roads lined with dilapidated wooden houses. On the north side of the bridge and to the right is the Fort George area. From the southern side of the city, Cemetery Road heads out of town to the west and becomes the Western Highway, while from the northern side of the city, Freetown Road becomes Haulover Road and then the Northern Highway.

The Neighborhoods in Brief

North Side

Fort George Anchored by the Fort George Lighthouse and Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina at the eastern tip of the city, the Fort George neighborhood encompasses the area south of Queen Street, beginning at the northern side of the Swing Bridge, until it ends at Gabourel Lane. This neighborhood is easily the most upscale and picturesque in Belize City, with stately houses and mansions, generally kept in good repair. Most of the best hotels in the city are located here. It also includes the small triangular Memorial Park and the Belize Tourism Village, as well as the lovely seaside Marine Promenade. The area was originally an island, but was deliberately connected to the mainland with landfill. This area should probably be your first choice for a stay in Belize City.

Barracks Road Located a mile or so north of downtown, Barracks Road runs along the Caribbean Sea for a good stretch before curving inland and becoming Princess Margaret Drive. This is where you’ll find the Princess Hotel & Casino, as well as a couple of good restaurants. Much of the land on either side of Barracks Road is set aside as public parkland, while just inland is an area that is made up mostly of modern middle-class homes. While not within easy walking distance of downtown, it’s just a very short taxi ride away. The seaside setting and parks make this a relaxing option for those wanting to avoid the bustle of downtown.

South Side

Business District Belize City’s downtown business district runs from the south end of the Swing Bridge between East Canal Street and Southern Foreshore Road to the aptly named South Street. In addition to a busy mix of banks and businesses, this area is home to a host of inexpensive hotels, as well as the Supreme Court and the Bliss Institute. Just south of this area, you will find the old Government House and St. John’s Cathedral. This is a good option for budget travelers, but those with a little more money to spend will probably head across the river to the Fort George neighborhood.

Hauled Over Haulover

Haulover Creek is actually just what locals call the final few miles of the Belize River, before it joins the Caribbean Sea. It got its name as an outgrowth of common usage, as this is the area where goods and cattle used to be “hauled over” by early settlers, before a bridge was built.

Getting Around

By Foot

Belize City’s downtown hub is compact and easy to navigate on foot. However, the city has a rather nasty reputation for being unsafe for visitors, and you’d be wise to stick to the busiest sections of downtown and obvious tourist districts. You can easily walk the entire Fort George neighborhood, as well as the compact business area just south of the Swing Bridge. If you need to venture any farther, take a taxi. Be careful when you walk, as sidewalks are often in bad shape and sometimes quite narrow. And, don’t walk anywhere at night.

By Taxi

Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. A ride anywhere in the city should cost between BZ$6 and BZ$15. There’s no standardized look or color to taxis in Belize. Many are still old, gas-guzzling American models, although newer Japanese sedans are beginning to replace this aging fleet. Most taxis are clearly marked in some form or other, usually with a roof ornament. Very few taxis use meters, so be sure to negotiate your fare in advance. If you need to call a cab, ask at your hotel or try Cinderella Plaza Taxi Stand ( 223-0371), Taxi Garage Services ( 227-3031), or Majestic Taxi ( 203-4465).

By Car

You shouldn’t need to navigate Belize City in a car. If you do find yourself driving around Belize City, go slowly, as pedestrians can appear out of nowhere, and pay attention to the general flow of traffic and the wealth of one-way streets. Despite being members of a former British colony, Belizeans drive on the right-hand side of the road, and road distances are listed in miles.

Most rental-car agencies are based at the Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport, although a couple have offices downtown or at the Municipal Airport, and almost all will arrange to deliver and pick up your vehicle at any Belize City hotel. The most reputable rental-car agencies in Belize include Avis ( 225-2629; www.avis.com), Budget ( 223-2435; www.budget-belize.com), Crystal Auto Rental ★ ( 0800/777-7777 toll-free in Belize, or 223-1600; www.crystal-belize.com), Hertz ( 223-5395; www.hertz.com), and Thrifty ( 207-1271; www.thrifty.com). Prices run between BZ$100 and BZ$220 per day for a late-model compact to a compact SUV, including insurance. For more information on renting a car in Belize, see chapter 3.

By Bus

While Belize has an extensive network of bus connections to most cities and rural destinations, there is no metropolitan bus system in Belize City.

Belize City

Airport See “Arriving,” above.

American Express American Express Travel Services is represented in Belize by Belize Global Travel Services Ltd., 41 Albert St. ( 227-7185), which can issue traveler’s checks and replacement cards, and provide other standard services. They are open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and 1 to 5pm, and on Saturday from 8am to noon. To report lost or stolen Amex credit card or traveler’s checks within Belize, call the local number above, or call collect to 336/393-1111 in the U.S.

Babysitters Your hotel front desk is your best bet for finding a babysitter.

Bookstores Bibliophiles will be disappointed in Belize. You’d be best off purchasing any specific reading material, for either pleasure or research, before arriving in the country. Many gift shops carry a small selection of locally produced fiction and poetry, as well as guidebooks and maps. One decent bookstore in Belize City is The Book Center, 1 N. Front St. ( 227-7592), which has reopened in a convenient location downtown, following a March 2008 fire.

Camera Repair Although your chances of having any serious repair work done are slim, your best bet for camera repair is the Belize Photo Lab, at the corner of North Front and Queen streets ( 223-5682).

Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” above.

Cellphones DigiCell ( 0800/DIGICEL [344-4235]; www.digicell.bz) has a booth at the airport. If you have an unlocked 850/1900MHz GSM phone, they’ll sell you a local prepaid SIM chip with a local number. The chip and initial activation costs BZ$50, including BZ$10 of calls. You can buy subsequent minutes in the form of scratch-off cards in a variety of denominations. The SIM chips and calling cards are sold at their desk at the airport or at one of their many outlets around Belize. Their website also has information on setting up your home phone for roaming in Belize. But be careful, the rates are quite high.

Currency Exchange Most banks will exchange money for a small service charge. It is virtually unnecessary to exchange U.S. dollars for Belize dollars while in Belize, as U.S. dollars are universally accepted at the official two-to-one exchange rate. The exception to this is upon leaving the country, when you will want to convert your remaining Belize dollars. There is a branch of Belize Bank ( 225-2107) at the international airport, open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 4pm. If you are flying out on a weekend, or outside of these hours, be sure to exchange any Belize dollars beforehand.

Dentists Call your embassy, which will have a list of recommended dentists, or ask at your hotel.

Doctors Contact your embassy for information on doctors in Belize City, or see “Hospitals,” below.

Drugstores There are a handful of pharmacies around Belize City. In downtown, try Brodie James & Co. Ltd., Regent Street ( 227-7070); it’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Perhaps the best-stocked pharmacy can be found at Belize Medical Associates ★, 5791 St. Thomas Kings Park ( 223-0303; www.belizemedical.com); it’s open Monday through Friday from 7:45am to 9pm, Saturday from 7:45am to 1pm, Sunday from 10am to noon, and it makes emergency deliveries at any hour.

Embassies & Consulates See “Fast Facts” in chapter 12.

Emergencies In case of an emergency, dial 90 from anywhere in Belize City. This will connect you to the police, fire department, and ambulance central switchboard. You can also call 911.

Express Mail Services Several international courier and express-mail services have offices in Belize City, including DHL, 41 Hydes Lane ( 223-4350; www.dhl.com); FedEx, 1 Mapp St. ( 224-5221; www.fedex.com); and Trans Express, 41 Albert St. ( 227-2332). All can arrange pickup and delivery services to any hotel in town.

Eyeglasses The Hoy Eye Center is a small nationwide chain of opticians and eyeglass stores. Their Belize City branch ( 223-0994) is located at the corner of St. Thomas and St. Joseph streets.

Hospitals Belize Medical Associates, 5791 St. Thomas Kings Park ( 223-0303; www.belizemedical.com), is a modern, 24-hour private hospital, with emergency care and numerous private-practice physicians. The city’s main public hospital, the Karl Heusner Memorial Hospital, Princess Margaret Drive ( 223-1548), is also open 24 hours and has a wide range of facilities and services.

Internet Access Internet cafes are easy to find in Belize City. Rates run between BZ$1 and BZ$8 per hour. Most hotels listed in this chapter have either Wi-Fi or a small business center with Internet connections. You can also find Internet cafes scattered around the principal business and tourist districts of Belize City. Alternatively, BTL ( 0800/112-4636; www.btl.net), the state Internet monopoly, sells prepaid cards in denominations of BZ$10, BZ$25, and BZ$50 for connecting your laptop to the Web via a local phone call. Some knowledge of configuring your computer’s dial-up connection is necessary, and be sure to factor in the phone charge if calling from a hotel. The cards are good for only 30 days. In addition, you can buy a 24-hour period of Wi-Fi access from BTL for BZ$30, which will work at a number of hot spots around the city.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning Most folks rely on their hotel’s laundry and dry cleaning services, although these can be expensive. Alternatively, you can try Belize Dry Cleaners & Laundromat, 3 Dolphin St. ( 227-3396; www.belizedrycleaners.com).

Maps The Belize Tourist Board ( 227-2430) can provide you with good maps to both the city and the country either at their kiosk at the international airport, or at their main office at 64 Regent St. Also, most gift shops sell maps of the country.

Newspapers & Magazines Belize has no daily newspaper. There are four primary weeklies: Amandala (www.amandala.com.bz), the Reporter (www.reporter.bz), Belize Times (www.belizetimes.bz), and the Guardian (www.guardian.bz). Most come out on Friday, and all are relatively similar in terms of content, although with some differing and usually obvious political leanings. Amandala and the Reporter actually publish twice weekly, and are my favorites.

Police The main Belize City station is at 9 Queen St.; the tourist police is a division of the small force. Dial 90 or 911 in the case of emergency. You can also call 227-2222.

Post Office The main post office ( 227-4917) is located at 3 N. Front St. It costs BZ$1 to send a letter to the United States, and BZ$1.20 to send a letter to Europe. Postcards to the same destinations cost BZ50¢ and BZ60¢, respectively.

Restrooms There are very few public restrooms in Belize City. The only ones I know of are located at the little cruise ship tourist village on Fort Street in the Fort George neighborhood. However, if you’re not a cruise-ship passenger, you must leave an ID at the gate and get a guest pass. Most hotels and restaurants will let travelers use their facilities, although they are happiest about providing the service to clients.

Safety Belize City has a reputation for being a rough and dangerous city. Tourist police do patrol the busiest tourist areas during the day and early evenings. Still, while most populous downtown areas and tourist attractions are relatively safe during the daytime, travelers are strongly advised to not walk around at night, except in the best-lit and most popular sections of downtown. Basic common sense and street smarts are to be employed. Don’t wear flashy jewelry or wave wads of cash around. Be aware of your surroundings, and avoid any people and places that make you feel uncomfortable.

Rental cars generally stick out and are easily spotted by thieves, who know that such cars are likely to be full of expensive camera equipment, money, and other valuables. Don’t ever leave anything of value in an unattended parked car.

Taxes There is US$39 departure fee that must be paid in cash (in either U.S. or Belize dollars) at the international airport upon departure, although sometimes the fee is already included in your airline ticket; the land exit fee is US$19. There is a 9% hotel tax added on to all hotel bills, and there is a 12.5% GST tax on all goods and services. A 10% service charge is sometimes added on to restaurant bills. Take this into account when deciding how much to tip (if the service is really good, an extra 5%–10% is fine).

Taxis See “Getting Around,” above.

Time Zone Belize City is on Central Standard Time, 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. Belize does not observe daylight saving time.

Useful Telephone Numbers For directory assistance, call 113; for an international operator, call 115; for the exact time, date, and temperature, call 121.

Water The water in Belize City is ostensibly safe to drink. However, many travelers react adversely to water in foreign countries, so it’s probably best to drink bottled water during your visit to Belize.

Weather The weather in Belize City is subtropical, and generally similar to that of southern Florida. The average daytime temperature is around 80°F (27°C), although it can get considerably warmer during the summer months, while during the winter months, when northern cold fronts extend their grip south, it can get downright nippy. For more details, see “When to Go” in chapter 3.

Where to Stay

Belize City is small, and your options on where to stay are limited. The most picturesque and safest neighborhood by far is the area around the Fort George Lighthouse. Here you’ll find most of the city’s best shopping, dining, and accommodations. Still, since the city is so compact, and it’s not really recommended to walk around anywhere at night, you’re best off choosing a hotel that best meets your needs, style, and budget. There are really only three large, modern hotels in town, and they’re all listed below. If your tastes tend toward smaller, more intimate lodgings, there are several good options in different price ranges to choose from.

When getting a price quote from or negotiating with a hotel in Belize, be clear about whether you are being quoted a price in Belize or U.S. dollars. There is a 9% tax on all hotel stays in Belize, which isn’t included in the rates listed below.

Fort George

Expensive

The Great House ★ This stately, colonial-style, small hotel is aptly named. Set a block from the water, near the Fort George lighthouse, this three-story converted mansion was originally built in 1927. It has been well maintained and restored. All rooms are on either the second or third floor, and there are no elevators, if that is an issue for you. The rooms on the top floor are my favorites, with high ceilings, wood floors, and a large, shared wraparound veranda. In fact, there are wraparound verandas on both the second and third floors. While the rooms vary in size, most are very spacious; room no. 1 is one of the largest. Room no. 8 is the smallest room, but it just may have the best view. Throughout the building you’ll find a mix of wicker, neocolonial, and locally made modern wood furniture.

13 Cork St. (opposite the Radisson Fort George), Belize City. 223-3400. Fax 223-3444. www.greathousebelize.com. 16 units. BZ$300 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; concierge; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina ★★ Located in the quiet Fort George neighborhood fronting the ocean, out by the lighthouse, just 1 block from the cruise-ship tourist village, this is Belize City’s best business-class and luxury hotel. The best rooms are located in the six-story Club Tower; those on the higher floors have the best views. All are spacious and relatively modern, and feature marble floors and plush furnishings. The Colonial rooms, all of which are nonsmoking, are also large and comfortable. Rooms on the ground floor come with a small, private garden terrace, while some of those on the higher floors offer enticing ocean views. The poolside bar here is one of the more popular spots in town, and often features live music. The hotel also features a full-service marina and dive shop. Service here is excellent, and they’ve got a comprehensive on-site recycling program.

2 Marine Parade, Belize City. 800/333-3333 in the U.S., or 223-3333 in Belize. Fax 227-3820. www.radisson.com. 102 units. BZ$318–BZ$458 double. Rates slightly lower in the off season. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; babysitting; concierge; well-equipped exercise room; 2 midsize outdoor pools; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Chateau Caribbean This midsize hotel is housed in an old wooden mansion facing the sea. The rooms are all carpeted, with double beds and cable TV. The third-floor deluxe rooms are somewhat misnamed; while they are huge and have excellent ocean views from their private balconies, they’re a bit threadbare and Spartan, with too much empty space. The second-floor dining room serves decent, moderately priced meals of Belizean, Chinese, and international cuisine, with a wonderful view of the ocean. Periodic painting and upkeep are performed, but what the hotel really needs is a major overhaul.

6 Marine Parade (P.O. Box 947), Belize City. 223-0800. Fax 223-0900. www.chateaucaribbean.com. 21 units. BZ$178 double; BZ$218 deluxe. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV.

Barracks Road

Expensive

Princess Hotel & Casino This is the largest hotel in Belize City. The massive lobby area lets out into the hotel’s casino, two movie theaters, a shopping arcade, an eight-lane bowling alley, a salon, and various restaurants and bars. The hotel is set right on the water’s edge on the northern edge of downtown and is built as one long, six-story structure so that every room has an ocean view. The junior suites offer more space and have private oceanfront balconies. The casino is definitely one of the prime nightlife spots in the country, although it attracts far more locals than tourists. The Princess also has a full-service marina and dive shop. The Radisson is definitely more elegant and better maintained, with far more personalized service and ambience, but the Princess does have a bit more in the way of facilities and nightlife.

Barracks Rd., Belize City. 888/790-4264 in the U.S., or 223-0638 in Belize. Fax 223-3148. www.princessbelize.com. 181 units. BZ$280 double; BZ$300–BZ$600 suite. Rates include breakfast buffet. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; casino; concierge; fitness center; large outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Business District

Inexpensive

Belcove Hotel This funky canal-front hotel is my preferred budget choice in town. You just can’t beat the charm of grabbing a seat on one of the upstairs balconies overlooking Haulover Creek and the Swing Bridge, especially at these prices. Sure, the rooms are simple and very basic, but they are neatly kept with shiny, varnished wood floors, while the old wooden building is kept in fresh yellow paint with blood-red trim, yet still feels weathered and historic. These folks also offer airport transfers at a better rate than the local taxis.

9 Regent St., Belize City. 227-3054. Fax 227-5248. www.belcove.com. 12 units. BZ$68–BZ$110 double. MC, V. Free street parking. In room: No phone.

Coningsby Inn Housed in a converted old home toward the western end of Regent Street, the rooms here are compact and rather nondescript. Still, they are clean and comfortable. I prefer those on the second floor, although don’t choose one of these for the view, which is over an abandoned lot. I would definitely recommend a splurge for one of the air-conditioned rooms. There’s a convivial hostel-like vibe to this operation, and the second-floor bar and lounge area is the social hub of the joint.

76 Regent St., Belize City. 227-1566. Fax 227-3726. coningsby_inn@btl.net. 10 units. BZ$100 double without A/C; BZ$120 double with A/C. MC, V. Free street parking. Amenities: Bar. In room: TV.

Hotel Mopan Located a block or so from the water toward the western end of Regent Street, this longstanding and humble little hotel is a good option in downtown Belize City. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and most of them have air-conditioning. It’s definitely worth the slight splurge—I’d say it’s necessary—for one of the air-conditioned rooms. Those on the third floor are the best, with the end units, nos. 301 and 304, the best of these. There’s no true restaurant here, but breakfast is served in the large first-floor dining room and common area, which also serves as the social hub of the hotel throughout the day and as a bar at night.

55 Regent St., Belize City. 227-7351. Fax 227-5383. www.hotelmopan.com. 12 units. BZ$90–BZ$150 double. MC, V. Free street parking. Amenities: Bar; all rooms smoke-free. In room: TV, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Around Town

In addition to the places listed below, D’Nest Inn ★ ( 223-5416; www.dnestinn.com) is a cute, well-run little bed-and-breakfast located about 4.8km (3 miles) outside of downtown, just off the Northern Highway.

Expensive

Best Western Belize Biltmore Plaza Located on the northern outskirts of the city, this chain hotel is simple and straightforward. It’s a decent choice if you want to be a little closer to the airport and avoid the crowds and commotion of downtown. The rooms are contemporary and comfortable, with tile floors and heavy wood furnishings. All face the hotel’s central courtyard and pool area. As at the Radisson and Princess hotels, the bar here is a popular meeting place for locals, after work and on weekends.

Northern Hwy., Mile Marker 3 1/2, Belize City. 800/528-1234 in the U.S. and Canada, or 223-2302 in Belize. Fax 223-2301. www.belizebiltmore.com. 75 units. BZ$298–BZ$348 double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; small exercise room; small outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Villa Boscardi ★ This small and elegant bed-and-breakfast is the plushest lodging you’ll find near the airport. Housed in a converted private home, the rooms here are spacious and decorated with a sense of style. Most have interesting artwork and headboard treatments over the beds. The best room here is actually a detached cottage. The hotel is located on the northern outskirts of Belize City, in a quiet neighborhood, just a block or so from the water.

6043 Manatee Dr., Buttonwood Bay, Belize City. 223-1691. Fax 223-1669. www.villaboscardi.com. 6 units. BZ$130–BZ$158 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Near the Airport

The airport is located just 16km (10 miles) north of downtown Belize City, a 15- to 20-minute drive, depending on traffic. The area around the airport is decidedly undeveloped and of little interest to visitors. Few international flights arrive late enough or leave early enough to necessitate a stay near the airport. While you’ll see the large Global Village Hotel ( 225-2555; fax 220-3000; globalhotel@btl.net), right next to the airport, I find this a desultory and unappealing option. I really recommend you take the short taxi ride into Belize City, or stay at one of the places listed below.

The Belize River Lodge ( 888/275-4843 in the U.S. and Canada, or 225-2002 in Belize; www.belizeriverlodge.com) is an upscale fishing lodge located on the banks of the Belize River, just a few miles from the airport, while the Black Orchid Resort ★ ( 866/437-1301 in the U.S. and Canada, or 225-9158 in Belize; www.blackorchidresort.com) is a small resort hotel, also on the banks of the Belize River near the town of Burrell Boom.

Where to Dine

Despite its small size, Belize City actually has an excellent and varied selection of dining options open to visitors. While Belizean cuisine and fresh seafood are most common, you can also get excellent Chinese, Indian, and other international fare at restaurants around the city.

Note: When the cruise ships are in town, the restaurants in the Fort George area can get extremely crowded, especially for lunch.

Fort George

In addition to the places listed below, you can get good burgers and bar food at the Bayman’s Tavern at the Radisson Fort George Hotel.

Moderate

The Smokey Mermaid INTERNATIONAL I love the open-air brick courtyard setting of this semielegant yet relaxed restaurant. There are a couple of raised decks and gazebos and a few fountains, spread out among heavy wooden tables and chairs under broad canvas umbrellas in the shade of large seagrape and mango trees and a wealth of other lushly planted ferns and flowers. The dinner menu here ranges from Jamaican jerk pork to shrimp thermidor to chicken Kiev. I recommend the yuca-crusted catch of the day. The desserts here are excellent, with their signature sweet being the Decadent Ecstasy, a chocolate-coconut pie swimming in ice cream, nuts, and chocolate sauce. Breakfasts are filling and varied, and there’s a lunch menu, with daily specials, and a range of soups, salads, and sandwiches.

13 Cork St., in The Great House. 223-4722. www.smokymermaid.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$24–BZ$82. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–10pm.

Inexpensive

Le Petit Café ★ COFFEEHOUSE This place does a brisk business for breakfast, especially among local workers. A variety of both sweet and savory baked goods are available, as well as a wide range of coffee drinks. For lunch, you’ll find a selection of sandwiches, filled pastries, and a daily special or two. Seating is available in an air-conditioned dining area, as well as an open-air courtyard, under shade trees and flower-covered trellises. These folks also have a small kiosk in the departure lounge of the international airport.

2 Marine Parade, at the Radisson Fort George Hotel. 223-3333. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$4–BZ$20. AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–8pm.

Wet Lizard ★ BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL Boasting a prime setting on a second-floor covered deck overlooking the Swing Bridge and Belize City’s little harbor, when the cruise ships are in town, this raucous restaurant is the most popular spot in town. The menu here is simple, with an emphasis on sandwiches, burgers, and American-style bar food. Start things off with some coconut shrimp, conch fritters, or fried calamari, before tackling one of the sandwiches or wraps. You can also get tacos, nachos, fajitas, and burritos, as well as a daily special or two. If you like sweets, save room for the banana chimichanga. The best seats here are the small tables and high stools ringing the railing and overlooking the water. Everything is painted in bright primary colors, and the walls are covered with graffiti and signatures from guests.

1 Fort St. 223-5973. www.thewetlizard.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$30. AE, MC, V. Open only when cruise ships are in port.

Barracks Road

Moderate

Sumathi ★ INDIAN With a new location near the heart of downtown, this remains the best Indian restaurant in Belize City. The menu features a wide selection of northern Indian and tandoori specialties. If you’re familiar with Indian cuisine, you won’t be disappointed here. And if you like it hot and spicy, you’re in the right place. The weekday lunch special is an excellent deal at BZ$10. This is also an excellent option for vegetarians, who probably won’t find as broad a selection to fit their dietary needs in any other restaurant in the city.

No. 31 Eve St. 223-1172. Main courses BZ$20–BZ$30. MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–3pm and 6–11pm.

Business District

In addition to the places listed below, Nerie’s ★, which has two locations (124 Freetown Rd., 224-5199; and at the corner of Queen and Daly sts., 223-4028; www.neries.bz), is another restaurant specializing in Belizean cuisine, and it’s very popular with locals.

Inexpensive

Big Daddy’s Diner BELIZEAN Located in the two-story concrete Belize City market, just over the Swing Bridge, Big Daddy’s is a clean and comfortable cafeteria-style restaurant, and a great place to mingle with some locals. A breakfast here of scrambled eggs and fry jacks is filling and inexpensive. For lunch there are always several salads, rice dishes, vegetables, and main courses to choose from, and the portions are large. There are great views of the sailboats in the river from the restaurant’s big windows.

2nd Floor, Commercial Center, Booth 54. 227-0932. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$24. MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–5pm.

Macy’s BELIZEAN For authentic Belizean cooking and a down-home funky vibe, you can’t beat this tiny local place. The food is good, the service is friendly, the prices are right, and the dining room is cool and cozy. Order a fish filet with rice and beans, or curried chicken, or be more daring and try one of their daily wild-game chalkboard specials, which could feature anything from armadillo and deer to wild pig or gibnut. Macy’s no longer serves turtle or other endangered species, and there seem to be fewer wild game options than there were in the past. There’s only a smattering of tables. Each is set with a plastic tablecloth and plastic place mat, under a strategically placed overhead fan.

18 Bishop St. 207-3419. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$32. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11:30am–9pm.

Around Town

Moderate

Bird’s Isle Restaurant & Bar ★ BELIZEAN This relaxed restaurant has arguably the best location in the city, seaside on a small island just over a tiny bridge at the far southern end of Regent Street. The main dining hall is a circular wooden deck under a soaring thatch roof, though I prefer the open-air seats under large shade umbrellas on the wooden deck closer to the water. You can get a range of Belizean staples, fresh seafood, and grilled meats. Portions are hefty. The nightly specials are great deals, especially Wednesdays, with BZ$2.50 burgers. Thursday nights are dedicated to karaoke, while Fridays are turned over to live bands.

Bird’s Isle. 207-6500. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$16; lobster BZ$24. MC, V. Mon–Tues 10:30am–2:30pm; Wed–Sat 10:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm (Fri–Sat until midnight or later).

Chon Saan Palace ★ CHINESE If you’re in the mood for Chinese food in Belize City, you can’t do better than this local favorite. The room and the menu are immense. You’ll find plenty of chow mein and Cantonese dishes, but there’s also a substantial Szechuan section and a showstopping sizzling steak that comes hissing and screaming to your table. If you’re primed for seafood, you’ll love the large fish tanks stocked with live lobster (in season), shrimp, and the daily catch. This is a great place to come with a group, as there are plenty of large, round tables with built-in Lazy Susans, perfect for sharing food and a good time. Don’t take the easy way out and head to the more conveniently located New Chon Saan Palace—it’s worth the short taxi ride to eat at the original.

1 Kelly St. 223-3008. Main courses BZ$12–BZ$40. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm and 5–11:30pm (Fri–Sat until midnight or later); Sun 5–11pm.

Riverside Tavern ★★ INTERNATIONAL One of the most happening spots in Belize City, this large place has both indoor and outdoor seating on a spot overlooking Haulover Creek. The restaurant specializes in hefty steaks and delicious ribs. But you can also get seared tuna, grilled snapper, coconut shrimp, or jerk shrimp. The lunch menu features pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and rolls. The burgers here—which come in 6-, 10-, and 16-ounce sizes—are rightly famous and served for both lunch and dinner. There are TVs showing sporting events, and at times this place can get quite boisterous.

2 Mapp St. 223-5640. Lunch BZ$15–BZ$40; dinner main courses BZ$24–BZ$60. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–midnight; Thurs–Fri 11am–2am; Sat noon–2am.

Old Belize Bar & Grill BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL What this restaurant lacks in creativity and fancy fare, they make up for in portion size. The servings are huge. There’s an emphasis on fried foods here—chicken and shrimp are favorites. But you can also get pizzas, burritos, burgers, hot dogs, and buffalo wings. The best seats are on the long, open-air deck fronting the lagoon here. This is a great spot for lunch. It’s also a great spot to bring the kids, as it’s part of the Old Belize complex, with an attached museum, beach, and children’s play area.

Western Hwy., Mile 5. 222-4129. www.oldbelize.com. Main courses BZ$12–BZ$46. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

What to See & Do

There really isn’t much reason to take a guided tour of Belize City. The downtown center is extremely compact and lends itself very easily to self-directed exploration. There are only a handful of interesting attractions, and all are within easy walking distance of the central Swing Bridge. Below you’ll find reviews of the most interesting attractions, as well as a walking tour of the city.

When cruise ships are in town, you’ll find a line of trolley cars and horse-drawn carriages just outside the Belize Tourism Village offering rides around the city. Most of these include a stop, with entrance fee included, to the Museum of Belize. If you really feel the need for a guided tour of the city and there’s no cruise ship in town, ask at your hotel desk for a recommendation, or call Belize Horse & Carriage Tours ( 602-3048), Discovery Expeditions ( 223-0748; www.discoverybelize.com), or S & L Travel and Tours ( 227-7593; www.sltravelbelize.com). A half-day city tour should cost around BZ$60 to BZ$100 per person, but can easily be combined with a visit to one of the several popular nearby attractions. The latter two above companies offer a whole range of day trips and combinations to the attractions close to the city and even farther afield (see “Attractions Outside Belize City,” below, and “Side Trips from Belize City,” later in this chapter).

The Top Attractions

Belize City is very light on true attractions. The museums mentioned below are quite quaint and provincial by most international standards, although they are worth a visit if you are spending a day getting to know the city, residents, and local history.

Bliss Centre for the Performing Arts ★ Totally rebuilt and reopened in 2005, the Bliss Institute is a busy little complex that is the cultural heart of Belize City. Housing a performing arts space, rehearsal halls, a cafeteria, the National Institute of the Arts, and a couple of gallery spaces, this is the place to check for live theater, dance, and music performances while you’re in town. It’s also a good place to stop and see if there’s an interesting exhibit of art or photography. The main building’s circular design takes advantage of the complex’s setting, with large picture windows overlooking the Belize Harbour. The gallery spaces are fairly small, so you will need only about a half-hour, possibly less, to tour the institute.

Southern Foreshore, btw. Church and Bishop sts. 227-2110. Free admission. Mon–Sat 8:30am–5pm.

The Image Factory ★ This is Belize City’s top art gallery. With a large stable of local and regional artists to choose from, this nonprofit gallery and arts organization has regularly rotating exhibitions, as well as a semipermanent collection of art, photography, sculpture, and craft works.

91 N. Front St. 223-4093. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.

Museum of Belize ★★ Housed in what was once “Her Majesty’s Prison,” this museum features a collection of historical documents, photographs, currency, stamps, and other artifacts, as well as exhibits of Mayan pottery and archaeological finds. Although somewhat small, the collection of Mayan ceramic, jade, and both ornamental and functional pieces is worth the price of admission. There are also traveling exhibits and a room featuring attractively mounted insects from Belize. Just so you won’t forget the building’s history, a prison cell has been restored to its original condition. The museum takes up the two floors of this historic old brick building. Plan on spending between 1 and 2 hours here.

Gabourel Lane, in front of the Central Bank building. 223-4524. Admission BZ$10 for adults, BZ$4 for students, free for children. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.

Old Belize ★ This attraction aims at providing a comprehensive experience of the natural, cultural, and political history of Belize, with exhibits re-creating everything from a rainforest and a Mayan ceremonial cave to a logging camp and a Garífuna home. Admission includes a 45-minute guided tour, but you’ll probably want to stay longer to explore some exhibits on your own, visit the gift shop, or eat at the restaurant here. There’s even a pretty decent little beach here, with a large water slide and children’s playground area, and separate zipline cable adventure. Plan on spending between 1 and 2 hours here—more if you’re going to eat or hang out at the beach. While it’s certainly touristy, if you have only a limited amount of time in Belize City, or the country in general, this place does give a good overview.

Western Hwy., Mile 5. 222-4129. www.oldbelize.com. Admission to full-access package BZ$30 adults, BZ$15 for children 6–12; just to museum BZ$5 adults, BZ$3 children. Tues–Sat 8am–4pm; Sun–Mon 10am–4pm.

St. John’s Cathedral ★ This old brick church is the oldest Anglican cathedral in Central America, and the oldest standing structure in Belize. Built in 1812 by slaves using bricks brought over as ballast, it is also the only Anglican church outside of England where kings have been crowned—during the 1800s four Mosquito Indian kings held their coronation ceremonies here. The bell in the high bell tower here was brought over in 1826. In the small yard surrounding the church you’ll find a few graves of prominent Anglican clergy.

At the corner of Albert and Regent sts. 227-3029. Free admission. Daily 8:30am–5pm.

Traveler’s Liquor Heritage Center Belize’s top spirit producer offers the opportunity to learn a bit about the history, lore, and production process of the country’s ubiquitous One Barrel Rum at this small museum-like exhibit. You can also get a glimpse into the contemporary production operation at the factory located behind the Heritage Center. At the end of the tour, you can taste various products and shop for bottles, T-shirts, and other souvenirs.

Mile 2 1/2 Northern Hwy. 223-2855. www.onebarrelrum.com. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm.

Swingin’

The Swing Bridge officially opens twice a day, at roughly 6am and 6pm Monday through Saturday, to let tall masted sailboats pass through. However, if there’s no demand, it doesn’t open. When it does, the entire process takes around 20 minutes, and in addition to being a minor spectacle, it is a major traffic hassle.

A Walking Tour

The following walking tour covers both the north and south sides of Belize City, which together comprise the entire historic downtown center. For most of its length, you’ll be either right on the water or just a block or two away. As described, the walking tour should take you anywhere from 2 to 4 hours, depending on how much time you take visiting the various attractions. The only major attraction not right on the route below is the Museum of Belize, although it’s only a 4-block detour east from the Swing Bridge. The route laid out on this walking tour is pretty safe during daylight hours, but should not be attempted after dark.

Begin your stroll at the Fort George Lighthouse and Baron Bliss Memorial, out on the northeastern tip of the city. A small slate stone marks the grave of Henry Edward Ernest Victor Bliss (see “Baron Bliss” on ). After soaking up the view of the Caribbean and some fresh sea air, head toward downtown on Fort Street. On your left, you’ll find the Belize Tourism Village ( 223-2767), which was built to accommodate the rising tide of cruise-ship passengers. Stop in and shop, or just browse the variety of local and regional arts and crafts. Note: If you’re not a cruise-ship passenger, you’ll have to leave a photo ID at the gate in exchange for a temporary pass to visit the shops and restaurants here.

As you continue, Fort Street becomes North Front Street. Just north of the Belize Tourism Village you’ll find Fine Arts and The Image Factory, by far the two best galleries and fine arts gift shops in the country. Just before reaching the Swing Bridge, you’ll pass the Maritime Terminal on your left.

Now, cross the Swing Bridge and head south. On your left is the Commercial Center. Wander through the stalls of fresh vegetables, butcher shops, and fish stands. You’ll also find some gift shops and souvenir stands here.

The Supreme Court building, off the small Battlefield Park (or Market Sq.) just a block south of the Swing Bridge, is a real prize of English colonial architecture with the city’s only clock tower. Walk around the four sides and see if any are accurately telling the time.

Down at the southern end of Regent Street, you’ll find the Government House and St. John’s Cathedral, also known by its more officious-sounding moniker, the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. Both of these buildings were constructed with slave labor in the early 19th century, and they remain the most prominent reminders of the 3 centuries of British colonial presence here. The Government House has been converted into a House of Culture ( 227-3050), with the mission of encouraging and sponsoring local participation in the arts, music, and dance. You will occasionally find lecture series or an odd concert going on here.

For your return to downtown, head toward the water and come back on the Southern Foreshore Road, stopping in at the Bliss Institute to see if there’s an interesting exhibit on display or a performance scheduled for later in the evening.

baron Bliss

Henry Edward Ernest Victor Bliss, the fourth Baron Bliss of the Kingdom of Portugal, anchored his yacht, Sea King, off of Belize City on January 14, 1926. Within 2 months, the baron would be dead, never having set foot on Belizean soil. Nonetheless, the eccentric Baron Bliss is this tiny country’s most beloved benefactor. His time spent anchored in Belize Harbour was enough to convince him to rewrite his will and leave a large chunk of his estate—nearly $2 million at the time—to the country of Belize (then known as British Honduras). The trust he set up stipulated that the principal could never be touched, and only the interest was to be used. The ongoing bequest has funded numerous public works projects around the country, and today it’s hard to miss the baron’s legacy. There’s the Baron Bliss Memorial, Baron Bliss Nursing School, Bliss Institute, and the Bliss (Fort George) Lighthouse. Every year on March 9, a large regatta is held in Belize Harbour in honor of the baron.

Attractions Outside Belize City

The attractions listed below are within an hour of Belize City; both can be reached by public transportation. In addition, the Mayan ruins of Altun Ha ★ and Lamanai ★★ and the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary ★ are all easily accessible from Belize City. All are popularly sold as day tours, often in various mix-and-match combinations. If you’re interested in visiting one or more of these attractions as part of an organized tour, ask at your hotel, or call Discovery Expeditions ( 223-0748; www.discoverybelize.com) or S & L Travel and Tours ( 227-7593; www.sltravelbelize.com). Prices range from about BZ$100 to BZ$280 per person, depending on the tour, means of transportation, and attraction(s) visited. Tours, especially those to Altun Ha and Crooked Tree, are often combined with lunch and an optional spa treatment at Maruba Resort Jungle Spa. For more information on Altun Ha, Lamanai, Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, and Maruba Resort Jungle Spa, see chapter 9.

Belize Zoo ★★ Founded in 1983 as part of a last-ditch and improvised effort to keep and care for a host of wild animals that were being used in a documentary film shoot, the Belize Zoo, Western Highway, Mile Marker 29 ( 220-8004; www.belizezoo.org), is a national treasure. Gentle paths wind through some 12 hectares (30 acres) of land, where the zoo houses more than 125 animals, all native Belizean species. According to their own promotional materials, “the zoo keeps animals which were either orphaned, born at the zoo, rehabilitated animals, or sent to the Belize Zoo as gifts from other zoological institutions.”

Walking around the zoo, you’ll see several species of Belizean cats, April the tapir, and other wild animals in idealized natural surroundings. The animals here are some of the liveliest and happiest looking I’ve ever seen in a zoo. It’s obvious that they’re well cared for. All the exhibits have informative hand-painted signs accompanying them. Tip: It’s best to visit early in the morning or close to closing time, when the animals are at their most active and the Belizean sun is at its least oppressive. In addition, the zoo can get crowded at times; on days when cruise ships are visiting Belize City, busloads of tourists begin to arrive around 10am, but often are packed up and gone by 3pm.

The entrance is a couple of hundred yards in from the Western Highway. Any bus traveling between Belize City and Belmopan or San Ignacio will drop you off at the zoo entrance. Admission is BZ$16 for adults and BZ$8 for children, and the zoo is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Adjacent to the zoo is a sister project, the Belize Zoo Jungle Lodge ★ ( 220-8004). Set on 34 hectares (84 acres) of untouched savannah, the center has a nature trail, an observation platform, a classroom, and a range of guest rooms. An overnight stay here costs between BZ$60 and BZ$144 per person, including hotel taxes, breakfast, and dinner. While most of the beds here are in dormitory-style rooms with shared bathrooms, a few private cabins offer private bathrooms and more space, and are definitely worth the extra dollars. Folks who stay here can take a nocturnal tour of the zoo for BZ$30.

Community Baboon Sanctuary ★ There aren’t really baboons in Belize; this is just the local name for the black howler monkeys who reside in this innovative sanctuary. The sanctuary is a community program run by local landowners in eight villages to preserve the local population of these vociferous primates. The howlers found here are an endangered endemic subspecies found only in Belize. There’s a visitor’s center and natural history museum ( 220-2181; www.howlermonkeys.org) in the village of Bermudian Landing, and it is here that you pay your BZ$10 admission fee, which includes a short guided hike. If you want a longer guided hike, you should hire one of the many local guides for a modest fee. The preserve stretches for some 32km (20 miles) along the Belize River, and there are several trails that wind through farmland and secondary forest. You will undoubtedly hear the whooping and barking of the howler monkeys as they make their way through the treetops feeding on fruits, flowers, and leaves. In addition to the nearly 1,500 howler monkeys that make their home in the sanctuary, there are numerous other bird and mammal species to be spotted here. With your guide’s help, you should be able to spot the monkeys and, if you’re lucky, any combination of peccaries, anteaters, pacas, and coati-mundi. Bring binoculars if you have them.

At the visitor’s center, you can also hire a canoe for a leisurely paddle and float on the Belize River. The cost is around BZ$50 for an hour or so paddle in a canoe that will hold two passengers in addition to the guide. Other guided tours offered include specialized bird-watching excursions and night canoe outings to spot crocodiles. Finally, the several small villages that compose the conservation project are wonderful examples of rural Kriol villages. Be sure to visit one or two, stroll around, talk to the residents, and see what kind of craftwork and food you can find. In each village, there are families that rent out simple rooms. Ask at the museum and information center, or reserve in advance via their website.

Bermudian Landing village, site of the sanctuary’s visitor center, is about 32km (20 miles) west of Belize City. If you are driving, head north on the Northern Highway and watch for the Burrel Boom Road turnoff. Buses to Bermudian Landing leave Belize City several times a day. Call the sanctuary’s visitor’s center (see above) for current schedule and departure point. The one-way fare is BZ$5.

Outdoor Activities

Due to the crime, chaos, and often oppressive heat and humidity, you’ll probably want to get out of the city, or onto the water, before undertaking anything too strenuous. But if you want to brave the elements, there are a few outdoor activities for you to try in and around Belize City. See chapter 5 for more info on adventure sports in Belize.

Caving The Caves Branch ★★★ region is about a 50- to 90-minute drive from Belize City, depending on where you enter the cave systems. Several tour operators offer a variety of hiking and tubing trips through an extensive network of caves here. The Caves Branch River is a slow, meandering river that should probably be called a creek. Nevertheless, it passes through a series of long caves, making it perfect for a slow float on an inner tube through this dark and mysterious world. However, I recommend hiking because it allows more time for close examination of the geological formations and Mayan relics than tubing. Actun Tunichil Muknal ★★, located near Teakettle Village north of Belmopan, and the Crystal Cave ★★, located adjacent to the Jaguar Paw Jungle Resort, are two of the more spectacular caves you will ever visit. Most tour operators and tour desks in Belize City can arrange these trips, or you can call Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch Adventure Company ★★ ( 822-2800; www.cavesbranch.com) directly. These folks run, by far, the most extensive cave adventure tour operation in the country. See “Belmopan” in chapter 10 for more information on the Caves Branch region.

Fishing While most serious fishermen head to one of the cayes or southern Belize destinations, it’s possible to line up fishing charters out of Belize City. The marinas at the Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina ( 223-3333), Old Belize ( 222-4129), and Princess Hotel & Casino ( 223-2670) all have regular sport charter fleets and can arrange a variety of options. You could also check in with the folks at the Belize River Lodge ( 888/275-4843 in the U.S. and Canada, or 225-2002 in Belize; www.belizeriverlodge.com). Expect to pay around US$1,000 to US$1,800 per day for a boat that can accommodate up to four fishermen.

Golf Your options are limited if you want to hit the links in Belize. There’s only one operational golf course in the country, the Roaring Forks Golf Course ( 820-2131; www.belizegolf.net), a par-64 executive course, located just outside of Belmopan. Greens fees here are just BZ$50 for 18 holes.

Jogging Belize City is not very amenable to jogging. If you must run, you could try a loop around the Fort George neighborhood, hugging the coast from the Fort George Lighthouse to Memorial Park, then heading to Fort Street, which will bring you back to the lighthouse. It’s best to jog very early, before there’s much street traffic and before it gets too hot. Another nice stretch for jogging is on the sidewalk and parks that line Barracks Road where it fronts the sea.

Sailing The waters off Belize Harbour are theoretically perfect for day sailing excursions, although currently no one is consistently offering this option. The two main charter companies, The Moorings and TMM Charters, are both based outside of Belize City, the former in Placencia, the latter in San Pedro. However, if you’re interested in trying to line up a day sail, ask at your hotel desk or check in with the marinas at the Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina ( 223-3333), Old Belize ( 222-4129), and Princess Hotel & Casino ( 223-2670). See chapters 7 and 8 for details on longer charter options.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling The Belize Barrier Reef lies just off the coast from Belize City. It’s a short boat ride to some excellent scuba diving and snorkeling. While most serious divers chose to stay out on one of the cayes for really close proximity to the reefs, it is still possible to visit any number of excellent sites on day trips from Belize City, including the Blue Hole and Turneffe and Lighthouse atolls. Check in with Hugh Parkey’s Belize Dive Connection ( 888/223-5403 in the U.S. and Canada, or 223-5086 in Belize; www.belizediving.com).

Spas & Gyms Best Western Belize Biltmore Plaza and Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina have small gym facilities and offer basic spa services. However, only the Radisson allows nonguests use of their facilities, with a daily fee of BZ$20.

Swimming Most of the higher-end hotels in Belize City have pools. If yours doesn’t, you can head out to the Cucumber Beach ★ at Old Belize. The beach here has both an open-water section and an enclosed, and hence calmer, lagoon. There are also a water slide and a children’s playground, as well as chaise longues and palm-thatch shade shelters. Admission is BZ$5 for beach access, and BZ$10 for both the beach and water-slide privileges. Children are half-price.

Shopping

You won’t be bowled over by shopping options here in Belize City, and very few people come to Belize specifically to shop. You will find a modest handicraft industry, with different specialties produced by the country’s various ethnic communities. The Kriol populations of the coastal area and outer cayes specialize in coral and shell jewelry, as well as woodcarvings with maritime (dolphins, turtles, and ships) themes. The Belizean Mayan population produces replicas of ancient petroglyphs and different modern designs on various-sized pieces of slate. Finally, the Garífuna peoples of the southern coastal villages are known for their small dolls.

My favorite gift item in Belize continues to be Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce ★★★, which comes in several heat gradations, as well as some tropical fruit flavors. The original blend of habanero peppers, carrots, and vinegar is one of my all-time favorite hot sauces. The company also produces mango chutney and an assortment of jams. You can pick up Marie Sharp products at any supermarket and most gift shops; I recommend you stick to the supermarkets, though, to avoid price gouging. In addition to Marie Sharp’s, Lizette’s and Hot Mama brands of locally produced hot sauces are also a good bet.

Please do not buy any kind of sea-turtle products (including jewelry); wild birds; lizard, snake, or cat skins; corals; or orchids (except those grown commercially). No matter how unique, beautiful, insignificant, or inexpensive it may seem, your purchase will directly contribute to the further hunting of endangered species.

The Shopping Scene

Most shops in the downtown district are open Monday through Saturday from about 8am to 6pm. Some shops close for lunch, while others remain open (it’s just the luck of the draw for shoppers). Since the cruise ships are such a big market for local merchants, many adjust their hours to specifically coincide with cruise-ship traffic and their particular shore times.

Shopping A to Z

Art

Fine Arts ★★ This is the best gallery and gift shop I’ve found in Belize City. They have a large selection of original art works in a variety of styles, formats, and sizes. Browse primitivist works by Walter Castillo and Pen Cayetano, alongside more modern abstract pieces, traditional still lifes, and colorful representations of Belize’s marine, natural, and human life. 1 Fort St., next to the Belize Tourism Village. 223-7773.

The Image Factory Shop ★ Attached to the excellent gallery and exhibition space of the same name, this shop offers up prints, paintings, photographs, and craft pieces by prominent Belizean and regional artists, as well as books, music CDs, and more traditional souvenir items. 91 N. Front St. 223-4093.

Handicrafts & Souvenirs

By far the largest selection of gift shops and souvenir stands can be found at the Belize Tourism Village (8 Fort St.; 223-2767).

In addition to housing the best collections of fine art for sale in the city, Fine Arts and The Image Factory Shop (see “Art,” above) also feature some of the best handicrafts and handmade jewelry. The quality and selection are a definite step above what you’ll find at most other gift shops and tourist traps in town, and around the country.

Go-Tees ★ This long-standing design and production company has a shop and factory on the northern outskirts of the city, where you’ll find an extensive collection of T-shirts, visored hats, and local textiles. They also sell a range of handmade jewelry, Guatemalan textiles, Mexican hammocks, and Belizean crafts. 6238 Park Ave., Buttonwood Bay. 223-4660. www.gotees.net.

National Handicraft Center This place houses a wide selection of local and regional crafts and souvenirs all under one roof, but it’s no longer the main game in town. In fact, it’s lost a lot of its luster and traffic to the Belize Tourism Village. Still, you’ll find a good selection of Mayan stone carvings, coconut shell jewelry, and wooden knickknacks, as well as some oil paintings, prints, and a small selection of books. Moreover, the prices here are slightly better than those at the Belize Tourism Village, and if you see something you really like, you might even be able to bargain for it. 2 S. Park St. 223-3636.

Jewelry

Coral is a very delicate, rapidly disappearing living organism that grows very slowly; please avoid buying coral jewelry, as it just feeds demand and inevitably leads to the destruction of the spectacular Belizean reefs.

Maya Jade ★ This place bills itself as a museum and gallery, and while there is a whole room of museum-style displays explaining the history of Mesoamerican Mayan jade use and artistry, this is nonetheless predominantly a retail operation. That said, the small selection here includes some very well-done necklaces and earrings that you won’t find elsewhere. 8 Fort St. 203-1222.

Liquor

Your best bet for liquor shopping is at local supermarkets, or the duty-free shop at the airport. There are several brands of Belizean rum available; the most popular is One Barrel, which has a hint of coconut and vanilla. Other brands produce some more heavily flavored coconut rums. The Prestige brand aged rum is pretty good, if you’re looking for a straight, dry rum. Belize doesn’t produce any wines or other spirits of note, although you may want to pick up a bottle of locally produced wine, or cashew wine, for the sake of novelty.

Markets

The only real market of note is the Commercial Center, located just over the Swing Bridge, on the southern side of the city. This two-story modern concrete structure houses a mix of stalls and enclosed storefronts. The first floor is predominantly devoted to fresh produce, fish stalls, and butcher shops, but you’ll also find stands selling flowers, fresh herbs, and some souvenir shops. There are more souvenir shops and some restaurants, including Big Daddy’s, on the second floor. The Commercial Center is open daily from 7:30am to 7pm.

Music

Punta Rock is the most Belizean of music styles. A close cousin to soca and calypso, Punta is upbeat dance music. Popular proponents include Andy Palacios, Chico Ramos, Pen Cayetano, the Garífuna Kids, Travesia Band, and Peter Flores (aka Titiman). For a taste of traditional Kriol folk music, try to track down a copy of Mr. Peters’ Boom & Chime. You also might be able to find some traditional Garífuna music, which tends to be ceremonial dance music, very similar to traditional West African music.

The best place to find Belizean music is a gift shop. Still, these are very hit or miss. Check at the Belize Tourism Village. You might also try online music stores; two good sources are www.stonetreerecords.com and www.calabashmusic.com. I’d avoid the various vendors selling bootleg cassettes and CDs on the side of the road, since the quality can be sketchy, and the artists don’t receive a dime.

Belize City After Dark

Again, Belize City is a small, provincial city in an underdeveloped country, so don’t expect to find a raging nightlife scene. The most popular nightspots—for both locals and visitors alike—are the bars at the few high-end hotels in town.

The Performing Arts

It’s really the luck of the draw as to whether you can catch a concert, theater piece, or dance performance—they are the exception, not the norm. To find out if anything is happening, ask at your hotel, read the local papers, or check in with the Bliss Institute ( 227-2110).

The Bar Scene

The bar and club scene in Belize City is rather lackluster. The most happening bar in town is the Riverside Tavern ★★. This is especially true on weekends, and whenever there’s an important soccer, basketball, or cricket match on. The Bird’s Isle Restaurant & Bar ★ is another lively option, with karaoke on Thursday nights and live music on Fridays. For a casual bar scene, you can also try Thirsty Thursday’s ( 223-1677), located out on Newtown Barracks Road. While, for a somewhat refined place to wet your whistle, head to the Tinto & Blanco Wine Bar ( 223-4700), a small, dimly lit space on the first floor of The Great House, which offers up cocktails and a selection of wines by the glass or bottle, and a small selection of dishes to go along with them.

Travelers and locals alike also tend to frequent the bars at the major hotels and tourist traps. The liveliest of these are the bars at the Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina, the Best Western Belize Biltmore Plaza, and the Princess Hotel & Casino, all of which often have a live band on weekend nights. Of these, I prefer the Club Calypso ★ ( 223-2670), an open-air affair built over the water at the Princess Hotel & Casino, although it’s sort of a crapshoot as to which bar will be hopping on any given night.

Casinos

For gaming, the Princess Hotel & Casino is the only game in town, and the casino here is large, modern, and well equipped. While it’s not on the scale of Vegas or Atlantic City, the casino is certainly respectable, with enough gaming tables, slots, and other attractions to make most casual gamblers quite happy to drop a few dollars.

Side Trips from Belize City

Given the fact that Belize is so small, it is possible to visit any of the country’s major tourist destinations and attractions as a side trip from Belize City. Most are easily reached in less than 2 hours by car, bus, or boat taxi. Other attractions are accessible by short commuter flights. All in all, you can visit almost any destination or attraction described in this book as a day trip, except for the far southern zone.

For a listing of active adventures that make good day trips, see “Outdoor Activities,” earlier in this chapter; for a description of the most popular attractions within close proximity to Belize City, see “What to See & Do,” earlier in this chapter. Other possible destinations for side trips out of Belize City include Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, dive excursions to the nearby reefs, and even trips to the more isolated dive destinations such as the Blue Hole and the Lighthouse and Turneffe atolls ★★. You can also visit the Mayan ruins of Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich, Cahal Pech, and even Caracol and Tikal. All of the popular side-trip destinations out of Belize City are discussed in more depth in “What to See & Do,” earlier in this chapter, or in the subsequent destination chapters.

Most hotels can arrange any of the day trips suggested above. In addition, you can check in with Discovery Expeditions ( 223-0748; www.discoverybelize.com) or S & L Travel and Tours ( 227-7593; www.sltravelbelize.com). Note: Most of the tours and activities mentioned here and in “Outdoor Activities,” earlier in this chapter, are also sold to visiting cruise-ship passengers. When the cruise ships are in town, a cave-tubing adventure, a snorkel trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark-Ray Alley, or a visit to either Altun Ha or Lamanai ruins can be a mob scene. It’s often possible to avoid these crowds by starting your tour or activity very early, or in the late afternoon. If you are organizing your tour or activity with a local operator, mention that you want to avoid the cruise-ship groups, if at all possible.