Chapter 7: The Northern Cayes & Atolls

The cayes (pronounced “keys”) are a series of small islands strung along the length of the Belize Barrier Reef, set amid waters that are at once crystal clear and brilliantly turquoise. Seen firsthand, there’s something truly mesmerizing and almost unbelievable about the clarity and color of this water. But as they say around here: “You betta Belize it.”

The Northern Cayes & Atolls

With the reef providing protection from the open ocean, the cayes are literally islands of tranquillity in a calm blue sea. Aside from sunbathing and slow strolling, scuba diving, snorkeling, and fishing are the main attractions in the cayes. They are all world-class. From the bustling miniresorts of Ambergris Caye ★★ to the funky Rastafarian charm of tiny Caye Caulker ★★★ to the deserted-isle feel of the Turneffe Islands ★★ and Lighthouse Reef atolls ★★, it’s the idyllic combination of sun and sea, as well as adventure and relaxation, that attracts and captivates most visitors to Belize. Most of the cayes are small enough to walk from one end to the other in less than 20 minutes. On others, it won’t take you nearly as long.

Jacques Cousteau put Belize on the diving map back in 1971, with his explorations of the Blue Hole ★★. The country has almost 322km (200 miles) of continuous barrier reefs and visibility of up to 61m (200 ft.) on some days. It’s hard to open a diving magazine without finding an article on diving in Belize. For those sticking a little closer to the surface, the snorkeling is just as rewarding, with Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★ and Shark-Ray Alley ★★ considered two of the best snorkeling experiences on the planet.

On the plentiful flats found inside the reefs and up in nearby estuaries, anglers find action with tarpon, snook, permit, and feisty bonefish. There’s more tarpon as well as giant snapper and grouper found along the reefs, while out on the open ocean the tackle and game get bigger, with marlin, sailfish, tuna, and wahoo as the principal prey.

Ambergris Caye ★★

58km (36 miles) N of Belize City; 64km (40 miles) SE of Corozal Town

Ambergris Caye

San Pedro

San Pedro is Belize’s principal sun-and-fun destination. The compact “downtown” area is a jumble of small hotels, souvenir shops, restaurants, dive shops, and tour agencies. Though San Pedro continues to attract primarily scuba divers and fishermen, it is today popular with a wide range of folks who like the slow-paced atmosphere, including an increasing number of snowbirds, expatriates, and retirees. While certainly not akin to big-city traffic, golf carts and automobiles are proliferating on Ambergris Caye and constantly force pedestrians and bicycle riders to the sides of the road. In fact, the ongoing boom here has actually led to gridlock. During the busy parts of the day, the downtown area of San Pedro is a jumble of golf carts, cars, bicycles, and pedestrians all moving at a rather slow pace. As a separate byproduct of the boom, wooden Caribbean houses are giving way to concrete and cinder-block buildings, and even a small strip mall or two. Development has reached both ends of Ambergris Caye, and steady construction appears destined to fill in the blanks from north to south.

Long before the British settled Belize, and long before the sun-seeking vacationers and zealous reef divers discovered Ambergris Caye, the Maya were here. In fact, the Maya created Ambergris Caye when they cut a channel through the long, thin peninsula that extended down from what is now Mexico. The channel was cut to facilitate coastal trading and avoid the dangerous barrier reef that begins not too far north of San Pedro. Ambergris Caye is 40km (25 miles) long and only .8km (1⁄2 mile) wide at its widest point.

Despite the fact that much of the island is seasonally flooded mangrove forest, and despite laws prohibiting the cutting of mangroves, developers continue to clear cut and fill this marginal land. Indiscriminate cutting of the mangroves is already having an adverse effect on the nearby barrier reef: Without the mangroves to filter the water and slow the impact of waves, silt is formed and carried out to the reef, where it settles and kills the coral. There is still spectacular diving to be had just off the shore here, but local operators and long-term residents claim to have noticed a difference and are expressing concern.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

You’ve got two options for getting to and from Ambergris Caye: sea or air. The trip is usually beautiful by either means. When the weather’s rough, it’s bumpy both ways, although it’s certainly quicker by air, and you’re more likely to get wet in the boat.

By Plane There are frequent daily flights between Belize City and San Pedro Airport (airport code SPR) on Ambergris Caye. Flights leave from both Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport and Municipal Airport roughly every hour during daylight hours. Most stop en route at Caye Caulker to drop off and pick up passengers. If you’re coming in on an international flight and heading straight for San Pedro, you should book a flight from the international airport. If you’re already in Belize City or in transit around the country, it’s cheaper to fly from the Municipal Airport, which is also closer to downtown, and quicker and cheaper to reach by taxi. During the high season, and whenever possible, it’s best to have a reservation. However, you can usually just show up at the airport and get a seat on a flight within an hour.

Both Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 226-2435 in San Pedro; www.mayaairways.com) and Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, or 226-2012 in Belize; www.tropicair.com) have 11 flights daily between Goldson International Airport and San Pedro Airport, and they both follow the same schedule. The flights depart every hour beginning at 7:40am, with the last flight at 5:40pm. Flight time is around 15 minutes; the fare is BZ$126 each way. These flights actually originate at the Belize City Municipal Airport 10 minutes earlier. From the Municipal Airport, the fare is just BZ$70 each way. These flights take around 30 minutes, because they stop en route to pick up passengers at the international airport, and then at Caye Caulker to drop off passengers. When you’re ready to leave, flights from San Pedro to Belize City run from 7am to 5pm. Most of these flights stop first at Caye Caulker and then at the international airport before continuing on to the Municipal Airport. Both airlines offer discounts for children.

Almost any of the above Tropic Air and Maya Island Air flights can be used to commute between Caye Caulker and San Pedro. Flight duration is just 10 minutes, and the fare is BZ$70 each way.

Tropic Air has six daily flights between Corozal Town and San Pedro, leaving Corozal Town at 7:30, 9:30, and 11:30am, and at 1:30, 3:30, and 5:30pm. Flights from San Pedro to Corozal Town leave at 7, 9, and 11am, and at 1, 3, and 5pm. The fare is BZ$95 each way.

Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 422-2333 in Corozal; www.mayaairways.com) has daily flights between Corozal and San Pedro, leaving San Pedro at 7 and 10am and 3 and 4:30pm, and returning at 7:30 and 10:30am and 3:30 and 5pm. Flight duration is 25 minutes. The fare is BZ$85 each way.

Connections to and from all the other major destinations in Belize can be made via the Municipal and international airports in Belize City.

Add It Up

Because a taxi into Belize City from the international airport costs BZ$50 to BZ$60, and the boat to Ambergris Caye costs BZ$20 to BZ$30, it is only a bit more expensive to fly if you are heading directly to the cayes after arriving on an international flight.

By Boat Regularly scheduled boats ply the route between Belize City and Ambergris Caye. All leave from somewhere near the Swing Bridge. Most boats leave directly from the Marine Terminal, which is located right on North Front Street just over the Swing Bridge, and the boats are associated with either the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association ( 223-5752; www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com) or San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi ( 226-3535). Most are open speedboats with one or two very powerful engines. Most carry between 20 and 30 passengers, and make the trip in about 75 minutes. Almost all of these boats drop off and pick up passengers in Caye Caulker on their way, and on St. George’s Caye when there’s demand. If you’re going to Ambergris or St. George’s Caye from Caye Caulker, these boats will pick you up. Find out at the Marine Terminal just where and when they stop. The schedule is subject to change, but boats for Ambergris Caye leave the Marine Terminal roughly every 90 minutes beginning at 8am, with the last boat leaving at 4:30pm. The fare is BZ$30 one-way; BZ$60 round-trip between Belize City and Ambergris Caye; and BZ$20 one-way between Caye Caulker and San Pedro. Children travel for half-price. (See “A Small Caye on the Way,” on, for more details about St. George’s Caye.)

It is possible to purchase a seat in advance by visiting the Marine Terminal personally. This is a good idea in the high season, although in most cases, you’ll need to purchase the ticket in cash upfront. Some Belize City hotels provide this service or can get you a confirmed reservation by phone.

In addition to the above-mentioned companies, the Triple J ( 223-3464) leaves from Courthouse pier near the Marine Terminal every day at 8 and 10:30am, noon, and 3pm, returning from the Texaco dock on Ambergris Caye at 7 and 9am and 1 and 3:30pm. The rates for the Triple J are similar to those listed above.

All the boats dock on a pier near the center of town.

Getting Around

The downtown section of San Pedro is easily navigated by foot. Some of the hotels located on the northern or southern ends of the island can be quite isolated, however.

Most hotels arrange pickup and drop-off for guests, whether they are arriving or departing by air or sea. Taxis are waiting for all flights that arrive at the airport, and are available for most trips around the island. If your hotel can’t call you one, try Amber Isle Taxi ( 226-4060), Felix Taxi ( 226-2041), or Island Taxi ( 226-3125). Fares run between BZ$6 and BZ$20 for most rides.

Ubiquitous golf carts are available for rent from several outlets on the island. Rates run around BZ$120 to BZ$180 per day for a four-seat cart, and BZ$160 to BZ$280 for a six-seat cart. Hourly rates are between BZ$30 and BZ$50. One of the largest and most dependable outfits is Moncho’s Rental ( 226-3262; www.monchosrentals.com). Other dependable options include Cholo’s Golf Cart Rental ( 226-2406) and Ultimate Cart Rental ( 226-3326; www.ultimaterentalsbelize.com).

For a more distinctive ride around town, head to Segway of Belize ( 226-3344; www.segwayofbelize.com). Rates run BZ$70 per hour, with discounts for half- and full-day rentals.

I personally think the best way to get around is on a bicycle. Most hotels have their own bikes, available for free or for a small rental fee. If your hotel doesn’t have a bike, call or head to Joe’s Bike Rental on the south end of Pescador Drive ( 226-4371). Rates run around BZ$20 to BZ$30 per day.

Depending on where your hotel is located, a water taxi may just be your best means for commuting between your accommodations and the restaurants and shops of San Pedro. Coastal Xpress ( 226-2007; www.coastalxpress.com) runs regularly scheduled launches that cover the length of the island, cruising just offshore from north to south and vice versa. The launches are in radio contact with all the hotels and restaurants, and they stop to pick up and discharge passengers as needed. Ferries run at regular intervals, roughly every half-hour, between 5am and 2am. Rates run around BZ$10 to BZ$50 per person for a jaunt, depending on the length of the ride. Chartered water taxis are also available, and usually charge around BZ$80 to BZ$300, depending on the length of the ride and size of your group.

Orientation

San Pedro (the only town on the island of Ambergris Caye) is just three streets wide. The streets, from seaside to lagoonside, are Barrier Reef Drive (Front St.), Pescador Drive (Middle St.), and Angel Coral Street (Back St.). The airport is at the south end of the busy little downtown. The island stretches both north and south of San Pedro. Less than a mile north of San Pedro there is a small channel, or cut, dividing the island in two. The northern section of the island is much less developed, and is where you will find more of the higher-end isolated resorts.

A bridge connects the northern and southern sections of Ambergris Caye. Pedestrians and bicycles can cross the bridge for free, but golf carts and other vehicles must pay a toll of BZ$5 each way.

Fast Facts For the local police, dial 911 or 226-2022; for the fire department, dial 226-2372. In the case of a medical emergency, call the San Pedro Health Clinic ( 226-2536).

Atlantic Bank ( 226-2195) and Belize Bank ( 226-2450) are both located on Barrier Reef Drive in downtown San Pedro. The post office ( 226-2250) is located on Barrier Reef Drive; it’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and from 1 to 5pm. There are plenty of Internet cafes on the island, and most hotels provide connections. One of the best and longest-standing Internet cafes on the island is Caribbean Connection Internet Café, 55 Barrier Reef Dr. ( 226-2573).

Most hotels also provide laundry service, but pricing varies widely, so ask first. Nellie’s Laundromat ( 226-2454) is located on Pescador Drive toward the south end of town. They charge around BZ$12 per load, and they even offer pickup and delivery service.

International Costa Maya Festival

Begun as the San Pedro Sea & Air Festival, the annual International Costa Maya Festival ★★ is the largest public celebration on Ambergris Caye, even larger and more popular than Carnival. Celebrated from Thursday to Sunday in early August, the festival offers a steady stream of live concert performances, street parades, beauty pageants, and water shows and activities. When the festivities reinvented themselves several years ago, they had been transformed into a regional affair, honoring and inviting the peoples from around the Mayan world. Performers, participants, and festivalgoers come from around Belize, as well as from Mexico, Honduras, El Salvador, and Guatemala, the five countries that compose the Mundo Maya. San Pedro’s football field is converted into the fairgrounds, and a large stage is set up at one end. Food stalls and arts and crafts booths are set up as well. Admission to most events is free, and a party atmosphere envelops the entire island.

What to See & Do

Before you book your vacation, you should be aware that there really isn’t much beach to speak of on Ambergris Caye: Before you book your vacation, you should be aware that there really aren’t any grand beaches on Ambergris Caye. Around most of the island, there’s just a narrow band of sand where the land meets the sea. In some spots, even at low tide, it’s barely wide enough for you to lay out a beach towel. Some of the beachfront hotels create their own beaches by building retaining walls and filling them in with sand. You’ll find the best of these at the resorts on the northern part of the island, and at Victoria House. If your hotel doesn’t have a good beach, try walking north or south from town along the water to find a more secluded spot where you can sit and stare out to sea.

Likewise, swimming is not what you might expect. For 100 yards (300 ft.) or more out from shore, the bottom is covered with sea grass. In a smart move that prioritizes the environment over tourism, the local and national government has decided to protect the sea grass, which supports a wealth of aquatic life. Beneath the grass is a layer of spongy roots and organic matter topped with a thin layer of white sand. Walking on this spongy sand is somewhat unnerving; there’s always the possibility of a sea urchin or stingray lurking, and it’s easy to trip and stumble. Swimming is best off the piers, and many of the hotels here have built long piers out into the sea, with steps down into the water, and usually a roped-off little swimming area. Beyond this, good swimming can be had from boats anchored out in the turquoise waters between the shore and the reef, or by taking a kayak offshore a little way. Take Care

There is a lot of boat traffic (some of it quite fast and furious) running up and down the coast of Ambergris Caye, so do not try to swim or snorkel from shore out to the reef. Unfortunately, over the years, more than one swimmer or snorkeler has been run over by a speeding motorboat.

Fun in the Water

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

So why do people bother to come here if there is no beach and you can’t go swimming right off the shore? They come for the spectacular coral reef, turquoise waters, and seemingly endless visibility. Less than a quarter-mile offshore is the longest coral reef in the Western Hemisphere. The Belize Barrier Reef is second only to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing are the main draws here. All are consistently spectacular.

Within a 10- to 20-minute boat ride from the piers lie scores of world-class dive sites ★★★, including Mexico Rocks, Mata Rocks, Tackle Box, Tres Cocos, Esmeralda, Cypress Tunnel, and Rocky Point. A day’s diving will almost always feature a mix of steep wall drops and coral caverns and tunnels. You’ll see brilliant coral and sponge formations, as well as a wealth of colorful marine life. On good dives, you might see schools of spotted eagle rays, watch an octopus slither among the coral and rocks, or have the chance to swim face to face with a sea turtle. Nurse sharks, moray eels, and large barracuda are also commonly sighted.

There are scores of dive operators in San Pedro, and almost every hotel can arrange a dive trip, because either they have their own dive shop or they subcontract out. Rates are pretty standardized, but you should be able to get deals on multiday, multidive packages. While it’s often tempting to purchase all-inclusive dive packages before coming to Belize, this limits your flexibility; for example, if the weather and water are really rough, you’re already committed, although you might prefer taking an inland tour to a Mayan ruin over a rough dive.

For reliable scuba-diving service and reasonable rates, contact Amigos del Mar ( 226-2706; amigosdive@btl.net), Aqua Dives ( 800/641-2994 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-3415; www.aquadives.com), Ecologic Divers ★ ( 226-4118; www.ecologicdivers.com), or Patojo’s Scuba Center ★ ( 226-2283; patojos@btl.net). Most of these companies, as well as the individual resorts, charge BZ$140 to BZ$220 for a two-tank dive, with equipment rental included.

For more adventurous and truly top-rate diving, you’ll probably want to head out to the Turneffe Island Atoll ★★, Lighthouse Reef ★★, and Blue Hole ★★. For more information on these sites. Most of the dive operations on the island offer this trip, or will subcontract it out. It’s about a 2- to 3-hour ride each way (in a fast boat) over sometimes rough seas. You’ll definitely want to choose a seaworthy, speedy, and comfortable boat. Most day trips out to Turneffe Island or Lighthouse Reef and Blue Hole run around BZ$320 to BZ$600 per person, including transportation, two or three dives, and tanks and weights, as well as lunch and snacks. All the above-mentioned operators offer day and multiday trips to the outer atoll islands and reefs. Prices average around BZ$600 to BZ$1,000 for a 2-day trip, BZ$800 to BZ$1,400 for a 3-day trip.

If you’ve always dreamed of learning to scuba dive and plan on spending any time on Ambergris Caye, you should consider taking a course here. Resort courses will give you a great 1-day introduction into the world of scuba diving, including a very controlled shallow-water boat dive. These courses cost BZ$280 to BZ$360. In 3 to 4 days, however, you can get your full open-water certification. These courses run between BZ$650 and BZ$900, including all equipment rentals, class materials, and the processing of your certification, as well as four open-water and reef dives. All of the above-mentioned dive centers, as well as many of the individual resorts here, offer these courses.

The Perfect plunge

If you’re hesitant to take a tank plunge, don’t miss a chance to at least snorkel. There’s good snorkeling all along the protected side of the barrier reef, but some of the best is at Shark-Ray Alley ★★ and Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★, which are about 6.4km (4 miles) southeast of San Pedro. Shark-Ray Alley provides a nice adrenaline rush for all but the most nonchalant and experienced divers. Here you’ll be able to snorkel above and between schools of nurse sharks and stingrays. Hol chan is a Mayan term meaning “little channel,” which is exactly what you’ll find here—a narrow channel cutting through the shallow coral reef. The walls of the channel are popular with divers, and the shallower areas are frequented by snorkelers. Some of the exciting residents of the area are large, green moray eels; stingrays; and nurse sharks (harmless). The reserve covers 13 sq. km (5 sq. miles) and is divided into three zones: the reef, the sea-grass beds, and the mangroves. Most combination trips to Shark-Ray Alley and Hol Chan Marine Reserve last about 2 1/2 to 3 hours, and cost around BZ$60 to BZ$100. There is a BZ$20 park fee for visiting Hol Chan, which may or may not be included in the price of boat excursions to the reserve.

There are a host of boats offering snorkeling trips, and most of the hotels on the island, as well as the above dive operators, also offer snorkel trips and equipment rental. Trips to other sites range in price from BZ$30 to BZ$60 for short jaunts to half-day outings, and BZ$100 to BZ$140 for full-day trips. One of the operators who specializes in snorkeling trips here is the very personable Alfonse Graniel and his launch Li’l Alfonse ★ ( 226-3136; lilalfonse@yahoo.com). Another good snorkel operator is Grumpy & Happy ( 226-3420; www.grumpyandhappy.com), a husband-and-wife team that offers private personalized outings. Snorkel gear is available from most of the above operators and at several other sites around town. A full set of mask, fins, and snorkel will usually cost BZ$16 to BZ$30 per person per day.

Tip: Hol Chan and Shark-Ray Alley are extremely popular. If you really want to enjoy them, try to find a boat leaving San Pedro at or before 8am, and head first to Shark-Ray Alley. Most boats dive Hol Chan first, and this is the best way to get a dive with the greatest concentration of nurse sharks and stingrays. By all means, avoid snorkeling or diving these sites at times when the cruise ships are running excursions there. Alternatively, you may want to consider visiting a different snorkeling site, such as Mexico Rocks Coral Gardens, Tres Cocos, or Mata Rocks, where the snorkeling is just as good, if not better, and you’re more likely to have the place to yourself.

Rough Seas

The Belize Barrier Reef acts like a giant sea wall. Given the prevailing trade winds, the waters on the inside of the reef are almost always quite calm. However, a quick jaunt outside the reef can bring you into often steep and agitated seas. Most snorkeling trips stick to the smooth waters inside the reef, while scuba trips almost always head for the deeper water on the outside. Always ask about current conditions and where you will be going before you sign up for a trip, and know your abilities and reaction to rough water before venturing out.

Combining Snorkeling with Manatee Viewing Another popular option is a day trip to see manatees and do some snorkeling at a remote caye. These trips include a leisurely tour of famed manatee feeding and mating sites at Swallow Caye on the way to the isolated Goff’s Caye, which is little more than a football field–size patch of sand, with a few palm trees. These trips include all transportation, lunch on the caye, and several snorkeling stops, and cost around BZ$120 to BZ$200. Most hotels and tour agencies in town offer this trip; or check with SEAduced ★ ( 226-2254; www.seaducedbybelize.com) or Sea-Rious Adventures ( 226-4202; www.seariousadventures.com).

Glass-Bottom Boats If you really don’t want to take a plunge of any sort, you can still get a good view of the reef and its undersea wonders aboard a glass-bottom boat. There are a few glass-bottom boats working Ambergris Caye. Most hotels and tour agencies on the island can book them for you, or you can contact the Reef Runner ( 226-2172) directly. Rates run between BZ$50 and BZ$100, depending on the length of the tour, and whether a meal or drink is involved. Most of the glass-bottom boat tours allow time for a snorkeling break as well.

Sailing

The crystal-clear waters, calm seas, and isolated anchorages and snorkeling spots all around Ambergris Caye make this an excellent place to go out for a sail. Your options range from crewed yachts and bareboat charters for multiday adventures to day cruises and sunset sails. A day cruise, including lunch, drinks, and snorkeling gear, should run between BZ$180 and BZ$300 per person. Most hotels and tour operators around town can hook you up with a day sail or sunset cruise.

Although not a true sailboat, the Winnie Estelle ( 226-2427; winnie_estelle@yahoo.com), a 20m (66-ft.) motor-sailer operated by Captain Roberto Smith, does a day cruise to Caye Caulker with several snorkel stops for BZ$110. There’s a lunch stop on Caye Caulker, where you can dine at the restaurant of your choice, on your own account, while snacks and drinks are included on the cruise. This boat can also be chartered for longer trips to the outer atolls, or to southern cayes.

If you’re looking for a longer and more adventurous time on the high seas, TMM ( 800/633-0155 in the U.S., or 226-3026 in Belize; www.sailtmm.com) is a large-scale charter company with operations on Ambergris Caye. Options include monohulls, catamarans, and trimarans of varying sizes. Given the shallow draft, increased interior space, and reduced drag, a multihull is your best bet. All of the boats are well-equipped and seaworthy. Rates for a weeklong charter run between BZ$3,800 and BZ$18,000, depending on the size of the boat and whether you charter it bareboat or with a crew.

Fishing

Sport fishing for tarpon, permit, and bonefish is among the best in the world around these cayes and reefs, and over the years a few record catches have been made. If you prefer deep-sea fishing, there’s plenty of tuna, mahimahi, and marlin to be had beyond the reefs. Both Fishing San Pedro ( 607-9967; www.fishingsanpedro.com) and Go Fish Belize ★ ( 226-3121; www.gofishbelize.com) can fix you up with a guide and equipment. A half-day of reef trolling, casting, or fly-fishing for bonefish or tarpon runs around BZ$300 to BZ$600, a full day BZ$600 to BZ$1,000. Deep-sea trolling for larger game costs between BZ$800 and BZ$1,600 for a half-day, and between BZ$1,600 and BZ$3,000 for a full day. These prices are per boat for two to four fishermen and usually include drinks, tackle, and lunch.

Hard-core fishermen might want to check out one of the dedicated fishing lodges, such as El Pescador ★ ( 800/242-2017 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2398; www.elpescador.com) on Ambergris Caye, or Turneffe Flats ★★ ( 888/512-8812 in the U.S., or 220-4046; www.tflats.com) out on the Turneffe Island Atoll.

Windsurfing, Parasailing & Watercraft

Ambergris Caye is a good place for beginning and intermediate windsurfers. The nearly constant 15- to 20-knot trade winds are perfect for learning on and easy cruising. The protected waters provide some chop, but are generally pretty gentle on beginning boardsailors. If you’re looking to do some windsurfing, or to try the latest adrenaline boost of kiteboarding, your best bet is to check in with the folks at Sail Sports Belize ( 226-4488; www.sailsportsbelize.com). Sailboard rentals run around BZ$44 to BZ$54 per hour, or BZ$100 to BZ$140 per day. Kite-board rentals run BZ$110 for a half-day and BZ$164 for a full day. Weekly rates are also available. These folks also rent out several types of small sailboats for cruising around close to shore.

Most resort hotels here have their own collection of all or some of the above-mentioned watercraft. Rates run around BZ$40 to BZ$70 per hour for a Hobie Cat, small sailboat, or windsurfer, and BZ$60 to BZ$80 per hour for a jet ski. If not, Sail Sports Belize (see above) is your best bet.

Fun on Dry Land

Butterfly Garden

Located about 7.2km (4 1/2 miles) north of the bridge, Butterfly Jungle ★ ( 610-4026; www.butterflyjungle.org) is a pleasant little attraction with a butterfly breeding program and covered butterfly enclosure. A visit here includes an informative tour and explanation of the butterfly life cycle, as well as a visit to the enclosure, where anywhere from 15 to 30 species may be in flight at any one time. This place is open daily 10am to 5pm, and admission is BZ$20 for adults, free for children 11 and under.

Spas, Yoga, Fitness & Body Work

While there are no full-scale resort spas or high-end facilities on Ambergris Caye, you can certainly get sore muscles soothed and a wide array of pampering treatments at a series of day spas and independent massage-therapy storefronts. The best of these includes The Art of Touch, at the entrance to the Sunbreeze Hotel ( 226-3357; www.touchbelize.com), and Asia Garden Day Spa ★ ( 226-4072), across from the airstrip. Rates run around BZ$160 to BZ$200 for an hour-long massage.

If you want to work out, there’s a modest health club and gym at the San Pedro Family Fitness Club (see below). These folks also offer aerobic, Pilates, Tae Bo, and yoga classes.

Finally, if you’re in the mood for a good yoga session, you’ll want to head just north of the bridge to Ak’Bol Yoga Retreat ★ ( 226-2073; www.akbol.com), which offers a regular schedule of classes and intensive retreats. They also have rooms and individual cabins, as well as a largely vegetarian restaurant and small spa.

Tennis

This is very far from a tennis destination, and very few hotels have courts. You’ll find two lit courts at the San Pedro Family Fitness Club, on the west side of San Pedro ( 226-4749; www.sanpedrofitness.com). You’ll want to play early in the morning or late in the afternoon or evening, as it’s just too hot to play tennis most days during the heat of the day. This place is a bargain: BZ$30 gets you a full-day pass and access to all their facilities, including the tennis court and complimentary racquet use. If you just want to use the pool here, it will run you BZ$20.

Other Attractions

Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve

Occupying the northern end of Ambergris Caye and its surrounding waters, Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve ★ ( 226-2833; www.bacalarchico.org) is a great spot for wildlife viewing. In addition to being home to scores of bird, animal, and plant species (many of which are endemic), the park also features several ancient Mayan ceremonial and trading sites. The ranger station is, in fact, located at the diminutive Chac Balam ruins. Bacalar Chico is the name of the channel cut 1,500 years ago by the Maya to facilitate coastal trading. Just across the channel is Mexico. Nearly 200 species of birds have been spotted here, and the park allegedly contains all five wildcat species found in Belize, including the jaguar—although your odds of seeing a cat are remote at best. However, you’ve got decent odds of seeing a crocodile or wild deer, and of course numerous bird species. The park is accessible only by boat. All of the local tour outfits offer half- and full-day trips to Bacalar Chico. Depending on your needs, these trips usually provide a mix of bird- and nature-watching, snorkeling, and Mayan ruin explorations. Specialist guides can be hired around San Pedro if you want to focus primarily on any one of these pursuits. Admission to the park is BZ$10.

Excursions Farther Afield

If you’ve been on the island for a while or just want to see more of Belize, a host of tour operators on Ambergris Caye offer excursions to all of the major attractions and destinations around the country, including Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich, Mountain Pine Ridge, and even Tikal. You can also go cave tubing in the Caves Branch region. Most of these tours involve a flight in a small charter plane.

One of the most popular day trips is to the Mayan ruins at Altun Ha. This is also one of the most economical, as it doesn’t require a flight. This begins on a powerful little boat that will whisk you over to the mainland. You’ll then take a taxi to the ruins and have lunch before returning to San Pedro. Most operators offering the Altun Ha trip include a lunch stop at Maruba Resort, with the option of adding on a decadent jungle spa treatment. Prices for these trips run around BZ$150 to BZ$300. A similar trip by boat and land is offered to the ruins at Lamanai.

For trips involving a flight, prices range from BZ$250 to BZ$500 per person, depending on the distance traveled and number of activities and attractions crammed into 1 day. Most hotels on the island can book these tours, or you can contact SEAduced ★ ( 226-2254; www.seaducedbybelize.com) or Sea-Rious Adventures ( 226-4202; www.seariousadventures.com).

For detailed descriptions of these various destinations and attractions, see the respective regional chapters in this book.

Shopping

Most of the shopping on Ambergris Caye is typical tourist fare. You’ll see tons of T-shirts and tank tops with dive logos and silk-screen prints of the Blue Hole. Beyond this, the best buy on the island is handmade jewelry sold by local Belizean artisans from makeshift display stands along Barrier Reef Drive. I’d be wary of black coral jewelry, though. Black coral is extremely beautiful, but as with every endangered resource, increased demand just leads to increased harvesting of a slow-growing coral.

Inside Fido’s Courtyard at Belizean Arts ★ ( 226-3019), you’ll find the island’s best collection of original paintings and crafts. Of special note are the prints and paintings of co-owner Walter Castillo, a Nicaraguan-born artist whose simple, but bold, style captures the Caribbean color and rhythm of Belize.

Another shop at Fido’s Courtyard worth checking out is Ambar ★★ ( 226-3101). The owner and artisan here sells handmade jewelry, with a specialty in amber. The stuff here is a significant cut above the wares you’ll find in most other souvenir shops and street stands.

To get your fill of jade, head to the small Ambergris Maya Jade & History Museum, Barrier Reef Drive ( 226-3311), which has a collection of jade artifacts and jewelry, and really functions as the draw to get folks into their retail store.

Finally, if you just need some reading material for the beach blanket or hammock, head to Pages ( 206-2254), with a large selection of new and used books, right on Pescador Drive.

paint Wars

A modest version of the traditional Caribbean Carnival or Mardi Gras is celebrated in San Pedro—with an odd twist—over the weekend preceding Ash Wednesday and the period of Lent. Sure, there are colorful and lively comparsa parades, with marching drum bands and costumed dancers. But over the years a tradition of painting has developed. This tradition predates paintball by decades. In times past, this was a fun and frivolous game between roaming bands of local residents using flour-based homemade “paints.” Tourists were usually asked before being painted and their demurrals respected. Over the years, however, the painting fever has skyrocketed and gotten more aggressive: Fresh eggs and the occasional oil-based paint were introduced as weapons, and tourists are now often painted despite pleas to the contrary. It’s definitely fun and a good way to meet some locals. If you get to a shower relatively quickly, it’ll wash off without much hassle. Still, if you go out during Carnival, expect to get painted, and dress accordingly.

Where to Stay

In San Pedro

There’s a score of hotel options right in the heart of San Pedro town. Most are geared toward budget travelers, although a few of these are quite comfortable and charming. Most of the more upscale resorts are located a little bit farther north or south of town. See below for these options.

Tip: Almost every hotel on Ambergris Caye, and certainly all of the resorts, offers scuba packages. If you plan to do a lot of diving, this is the way to go, as these packages can sometimes provide substantial savings over paying as you go. However, you can also buy dive packages from many of the individual dive operators, either in advance or upon arrival on the caye.

Very Expensive

The Phoenix ★★★ The stark contemporary architecture here is striking. Most units here are two-bedroom/two-bath condo units, although there are a few smaller and a few larger options. All come with full kitchens featuring beautiful granite countertops and stainless steel appliances, a washer and dryer, and large flatscreen televisions in both the living room and the master bedroom. Most have huge balconies that open onto the property’s large pool and common area, and the Caribbean Sea beyond. The restaurant here, Red Ginger, is excellent.

Barrier Reef Dr. (P.O. Box 25), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 877/822-5512 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2083 in Belize. Fax 226-2232. www.thephoenixbelize.com. 30 units. BZ$650–BZ$900 double. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; small contemporary spa and fitness center; 2 outdoor pools; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, full kitchen, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Blue Tang Inn ★ This intimate option features all-suite accommodations. Housed in a three-story oceanfront building, the rooms are comfortable and spacious, and all feature a kitchenette, dining area, and living area with a foldout futon, making them an excellent option for families and extended stays. My favorite feature here is the rooftop deck, which offers wonderful panoramic views and is a great spot to take in the sunset. The hotel is located right on the waterfront, just north of the heart of downtown San Pedro. While there is no restaurant here, they do serve a complimentary continental breakfast. And if you choose to skip cooking on your own, a score of restaurants is just a few steps away.

Sand Piper St. (Box 231), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 866/881-1020 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2326 in Belize. Fax 226-2358. www.bluetanginn.com. 14 units. BZ$300–BZ$420 double. Rate includes continental breakfast and San Pedro Airport transfers. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Ramon’s Village ★ The handiwork of local son Ramón Núñez, this place is appropriately named, as there is a small-village feel to the collection of thatch-roofed bungalows and suites. At the center of the complex is a small but inviting free-form pool, surrounded by palm trees and flowering plants. Rooms vary in size and are classified as beachfront, seaside, and garden view, with the beachfront units having the best unobstructed views of the water. All are clean, modern, and comfortable, with colorful-print bedspreads and dark-varnished wood trim. Most have a private or shared balcony with a sitting chair or hammock. There are a few suites, which are larger and provide more room to roam and relax. Room nos. 58 and 61 are large second-floor suites set right near the edge of the sea. Ramon’s has one of the longer and prettier beaches to be found in San Pedro.

Coconut Dr. (southern edge of town), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 800/624-4215 in the U.S., or 226-2067 in Belize. Fax 226-2214. www.ramons.com. 61 units. BZ$290–BZ$370 double; BZ$400–BZ$900 suite. Rates slightly higher during peak weeks; lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bike and golf cart rental; full-service dive shop; small outdoor pool; room service; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

Sunbreeze ★★ This two-story seafront hotel is built in a horseshoe around a simple garden area, with a small pool at its core. The superior rooms are all spacious and attractively appointed. The standard rooms have slightly small bathrooms, but are otherwise quite acceptable. The five deluxe units feature Jacuzzi tubs and the best views. Room no. 225 is the best of the bunch; a corner deluxe unit with a large balcony facing the Caribbean Sea. On the other end of the horseshoe, no. 201 is the best standard room in the house. This hotel is ideally located in the center of town, with its own dive operation and a small arcade of shops. The hotel’s Blue Water Grill serves excellent international fare. One of the nicest features here is a covered open-air hammock area built over the restaurant and bar.

Coconut Dr. (P.O. Box 14), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 800/688-0191 in the U.S., or 226-2191 in Belize. Fax 226-2346. www.sunbreeze.net. 42 units. BZ$340 double; BZ$390–BZ$450 deluxe. Rates lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bike rental; full-service dive shop; small outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, TV.

Tides Beach Resort ★ With its wood construction, gingerbread trim, and faded paint, this three-story oceanfront hotel has a worn and weathered feel, although in fact it’s not that old. The hotel and sister dive operation are owned and operated by the highly respected and personable local couple of Patojo and Sabrina Paz. All of the rooms are oceanfront and have either a shared or small private veranda or balcony. They feature polished wood floors, simple furnishings, and either two double beds or one king bed. Patojo runs one of the better dive operations on the island, and this place is popular with scuba divers and dive groups.

Boca del Río Dr., San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 226-2283. Fax 226-3797. www.ambergriscaye.com/tides. 12 units. BZ$200–BZ$260 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; bike and golf cart rental; full-service dive shop; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, minifridge, no phone.

Moderate

San Pedro Holiday Hotel ★ You can’t miss this brilliantly white three-building complex, with painted purple and pink trim, in the center of town. Every room comes with air-conditioning, and most have excellent ocean views and small refrigerators. Get a room on the second floor, and you’ll have a wonderful balcony—you won’t want to leave. Celi McCorkle opened this hotel more than 40 years ago, the first on the island, and it’s continued to keep pace with the times and tourism boom. A full-service dive shop, a popular bar and restaurant, and a small gift shop round out the amenities. The whole operation has a festive and lively air to it. This hotel lacks some of the amenities of other options in this price range—there’s no swimming pool and not all rooms have televisions—but it makes up for that with its lively island vibe and friendly service.

Barrier Reef Dr. (P.O. Box 61), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 713/893-3825 in the U.S., or 226-2014 in Belize. Fax 226-2295. www.sanpedroholiday.com. 17 units. BZ$220–BZ$250 double; BZ$350 apt. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; bike rental; full-service dive shop; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, no phone.

Tio Pil’s Place Formerly known as Lily’s, this place is right on the beach, toward the north end of Front Street. The rooms are simple yet well maintained, and feature air-conditioning and minifridges. Not all of the rooms here have a water view—be sure to ask for one. The best rooms are those on the second floor, enjoying a wonderful shared veranda with a sea view. Those on the ground floor also have ocean views, although you need to be prepared for a fair amount of pedestrian traffic, as they are set right on the island’s main pedestrian and bicycle thoroughfare. There’s a relaxed vibe throughout the operation here, and you’ll definitely enjoy the lounge chairs set on the sand for the guests’ use.

On the beach, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 800/345-9786 in the U.S. and Canada, or 206-2059 in Belize. Fax 226-2623. www.ambergriscaye.com/lilys. 10 units. BZ$130–BZ$150 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, minifridge, no phone.

Inexpensive

There are quite a few budget options on Ambergris Caye, and almost all of them are concentrated in the compact downtown area of San Pedro. True budget hounds should just walk around and see who’s got the best room for the best price. I list a couple of my personal favorites below.

Hotel San Pedrano Although few of the rooms here have ocean views, they are pretty close to the beach and have varnished wooden floors, a single bed and a double bed in every room, and clean bathrooms with tubs. A few of the rooms even have air-conditioning. The best views can be enjoyed from the wide veranda that looks out over the rooftops of adjacent buildings, a great place to gather with fellow travelers or simply sit and read a book.

10 Barrier Reef Dr. (P.O. Box 131), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 226-2054. Fax 226-2274. www.aguallos.com/hotelsanpedrano. 7 units. BZ$70–BZ$90 double. AE, MC, V. In room: No phone.

Ruby’s Walking toward the ocean and into town from the airstrip, one of the first things you’ll see is a three-story whitewashed building with blood-red gingerbread trim. Most of the rooms at Ruby’s overlook the water. The best ones have air-conditioning and a private balcony overlooking the sea. The floors are wooden, the rooms are simply furnished with a couple of beds and little else, and the showers and bathrooms are clean. You can’t beat the location at this price in San Pedro. Downstairs you’ll find Ruby’s Deli, which is a good place for breakfast or a casual midday meal. These folks also have a separate hotel on the lagoon side of the island, with clean, spacious, simple rooms; shared bathrooms; and even lower prices. After years of mixed messages, it seems like the owners here have settled on spelling Ruby’s with a “y” and not “ie” at the end.

Barrier Reef Dr. (P.O. Box 56), San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. 226-2063. Fax 226-2434. www.ambergriscaye.com/rubys. 21 units. BZ$60–BZ$90 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

South of San Pedro

Expensive

Mata Rocks ★ The blinding white paint and angular architecture of this intimate hotel conjure images of the Greek isles. All of the rooms here have at least a partial ocean view. The best is no. 53, a second-floor unit fronting the sea, with a large private balcony. There are 6 suites and 11 standard rooms; all are clean, modern, and cheery. The suites come with a fully equipped kitchenette, king and sofa beds, and a small sitting area. At the center of the hotel is a small free-form pool that is fed via a small artificial stream, which is in turn fed by a small fountain. Purple and lavender Adirondack chairs provide splashes of color. There is an intimate and relaxed air about the whole operation. A complimentary continental breakfast buffet is served in the open-air beachfront palapa bar, as are snacks and light lunches. This place is located about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) south of San Pedro town.

Oceanfront, southern end of Ambergris Caye. 888/628-2757 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2336 in Belize. Fax 226-2349. www.matarocks.com. 17 units. BZ$290–BZ$340 double; BZ$390–BZ$420 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; complimentary bike use; small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, minifridge, no phone.

Victoria House ★★★ This elegant and exclusive island retreat features a varied collection of rooms, suites, and villas. Everything is done with a refined sense of style and attention to detail. The resort is set on an expansive piece of land a couple of miles south of San Pedro, with lush tropical gardens and a surprisingly good section of soft white sand fronting it. The plantation rooms and suites are spread through several buildings, and there’s a string of individual casitas aligned around a grassy lawn facing the sea. These latter feature high-pitched thatch roofs, tile floors, and wide French doors letting out onto a private balcony. The villas and suites are larger and equipped with flatscreen televisions and plush furnishings. Some have kitchenettes, and others are duplex units that can be joined or rented separately. Service is attentive, yet understated. A full range of tours and activities is offered, and the Palmilla restaurant here is one of the finest on the island.

Beachfront, 3.2km (2 miles) south of San Pedro (P.O. Box 22, San Pedro), Ambergris Caye. 800/247-5159 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2067 in Belize. Fax 226-2429. www.victoria-house.com. 42 units. BZ$360 double; BZ$596–BZ$624 casita or plantation room; BZ$740–BZ$1,190 suite; BZ$1,190–BZ$2,320 villa. Rates higher during peak weeks; lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free bikes; concierge; full-service dive shop; golf cart rental; 2 midsize outdoor pools; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C.

Xanadu Island Resort ★ The two- and three-story thatch-roof buildings of this small resort are set in a semicircle around a central pool area. All of the units here are large and loaded with amenities. All are classified as suites, although most have the feel of independent apartments or condo units. This isn’t a bad thing, and it makes this a good choice for extended stays and for families. Each unit features a full kitchen or a kitchen and spacious living room. Each comes with a private balcony or front porch. There are single-bedroom as well as two- and three-bedroom units available. The resort has a long pier jutting into the ocean, with a wonderful swimming platform at the end. There’s no restaurant here, but several are within close proximity, and the town of San Pedro is just 1.6km (1 mile) away. Xanadu is a certified “Green Globe” sustainable tourism project.

Oceanfront (P.O. Box 109, San Pedro Town), southern end of Ambergris Caye. 226-2814. Fax 226-3409. www.xanaduresort-belize.com. 19 units. BZ$380–BZ$550 double; BZ$550–BZ$800 2-bedroom; BZ$900–BZ$1,200 3-bedroom. Rates slightly higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Free bikes; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

On North Ambergris Caye

This is where you’ll find most of the larger, more isolated, and more upscale resorts on Ambergris Caye. If you stay here, you will have to rely on your hotel or on the local water taxis to get to and from San Pedro town.

In addition to the hotels listed below, El Pescador ★ ( 800/242-2017 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2398; www.elpescador.com) is a lovely and luxurious resort primarily geared toward hard-core fishermen and women.

Very Expensive

Azul Resort ★★ There are only two large villas at this luxury option on the north end of the island. Each is a two-bedroom, two-bathroom affair fronting the sea and sharing a large outdoor pool. The rooms feature bamboo furniture, king-size beds, and Egyptian cotton linens. There’s a flatscreen television in the large living room, and each villa comes with a fully stocked kitchen featuring top-line appliances, including a Viking range and fancy espresso machine. My favorite feature here is the massive open-air rooftop patio with fantastic views, a private Jacuzzi hot tub, and a couple of shade-giving gazebos. There’s also a smaller wraparound balcony off the second-floor loft bedroom. Each villa has personal concierge services. During most of the year, a 3-night stay is required. The restaurant here, Rojo Lounge (p.###), is one of the best on the island.

Oceanfront, northern end of Ambergris Caye. 226-4012. Fax 220-5058. www.azulbelize.com. 2 units. BZ$1,000 per person. Rates include all meals and snacks, and transfers to and from San Pedro Airport. Rates slightly lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary bike and kayak use; outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Jacuzzi, full kitchen, minibar, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Captain Morgan’s Retreat ★ Captain Morgan’s is a large, lively, and well-equipped resort on a long and lovely section of beach. The rooms are either individual beachfront casitas, or one- or two-bedroom villas set in a series of two-story units. All feature thatch roofs and wood construction, as well as attractive Guatemalan bedspreads and varnished wood furnishings. Every room comes with a private balcony or veranda, and all are modern, comfortable, and plenty spacious. I prefer the casitas, which are named after famous pirate captains, for their sense of privacy, although if you want more space and amenities, choose one of the villas. The villas all come with a fully equipped kitchenette. Beach lounge chairs and hammocks are spread along the waterfront and in shady spots on the grounds, and a host of aquatic and land-based activities and tours are offered.

Oceanfront, 4.8km (3 miles) north of the Cut on northern end of Ambergris Caye. 888/653-9090 or 307/587-8914 in the U.S., or 226-2207 in Belize. Fax 226-4171. www.belizevacation.com. 26 units. BZ$398 casita; BZ$498 1-bedroom villa; BZ$840 2-bedroom villa. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; lounge; complimentary bike use; full-service dive shop; 2 outdoor pools; spa services; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, minifridge.

Las Terrazas ★★ There’s a Greek-isle feel to the collection of whitewashed buildings here. The seafront units are the best, but all are beautifully designed and decorated, and come with top-notch furnishings, fixtures, and amenities. All are condo units with full kitchens, washer/dryer, and at least two flatscreen televisions. The penthouse units come with their own plunge pool. My only quibble is that the ceilings feel a bit low in many units. The restaurant here is elegant and well done, but my favorite hangout is the rooftop lounge and bar above it.

Oceanfront, northern end of Ambergris Caye. 800/447-1553 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-4249 in Belize. Fax 713/780-1786. www.lasterrazasresort.com. 39 units. BZ$490–BZ$990 double. Rates include transfers to and from San Pedro Airport. Rates slightly lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms; small spa and exercise room. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, full kitchen, minibar, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Mata Chica ★★★ This boutique resort is hip and chic. Artistic details abound, with an eclectic mix of fabrics, sculptures, ceramics, and paintings from around the world. Every room here is a private bungalow or villa, and all can be considered junior suites or better. My favorites are the casitas, which are the closest to the ocean and feature a large sitting area, a king bed on a raised platform, and an interior garden shower. Set back, but set high on raised stilts, are two very large villas, and one immense mansion. A large outdoor pool sits in the center of the grounds, and there’s another smaller pool, as well as a large outdoor Jacuzzi. There’s also a small spa, with a full list of treatments and cures, as well as a full-service tour desk. The hotel has an excellent restaurant, Mambo.

Oceanfront, northern end of Ambergris Caye. 223-0002 reservations, or 220-5010 at the hotel. Fax 220-5012. www.matachica.com. 24 units. BZ$390–BZ$880 double; BZ$1,050–BZ$2,090 villa. Rates include continental breakfast and transfers to and from San Pedro Airport. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; complimentary bike, kayak and watersports equipment use; 2 outdoor pools; small spa; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, no phone.

Portofino Beach Resort ★★ With thatch-roofed cabins, wood floors, bamboo beds, and large picture windows, this intimate boutique resort has a tropical feel. Every room here is massive. The Tree Top suites are second-floor units with large private balconies, while the VIP suites are large private bungalows closer to the sea. The best room here, the Honeymoon suite, comes with a private Jacuzzi and stunning views from its seafront balcony. Service is excellent, as is the in-house “Le Bistro” restaurant.

Oceanfront, northern end of Ambergris Caye. 888/240-1923 in the U.S. and Canada, or 678-5096 in Belize. Fax 226-4272. www.portofino.bz. 16 units. BZ$440–BZ$560 double; BZ$720–BZ$840 suite. Rates include continental breakfast, and transfers to and from San Pedro Airport. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary kayak use; outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minifridge, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Capricorn Resort ★ There are just three individual cabins at this intimate little hotel. Each cabin features high-vaulted ceilings, a large tile shower, and a private front deck with a hammock. The walls are painted bold primary colors, and artistic touches—in the form of local, Guatemalan, and other ethnic arts and crafts—abound. The cabins come with either one queen bed or two full beds; all come with mosquito netting. The restaurant here is excellent.

Oceanfront (P.O. Box 247, San Pedro), 4km (2 1/2 miles) north of the Cut on northern end of Ambergris Caye. 226-2809. Fax 226-5091. www.capricornresort.net. 3 units. BZ$370 double. Rates include full breakfast and transfers to and from San Pedro Airport. Rates lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary kayak use; room service. In room: A/C, no phone.

Moderate

Shirley’s Guest House These picturesque white cabins with green trim are set on well-manicured grounds facing the ocean, just north of the airstrip. They’re set on stilts and are shaded by coconut and casuarina palms. The setting is idyllic and quiet. The rooms have varnished floors and quilted bedspreads, and some come with a small refrigerator. Although the rooms are a little on the expensive side for what you get, they are worth it for the location, the space, and the comfort. Note that only adults are allowed to stay here.

Close to the airstrip on the ocean side (P.O. Box 13), Caye Caulker. 226-0145 or 600-0069. Fax 226-0264. www.shirleysguesthouse.com. 5 units (3 with private bathroom). BZ$100 double with shared bathroom; BZ$130–BZ$180 double with private bathroom. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. Children not accepted. In room: No phone.

An Island of Your Own

Cayo Espanto ★★★ Whether you’re a bona fide member of the jet set or you just want to pretend, this is the place for you in Belize. Seven bungalows are spread across this small private island. Each is luxurious, elegantly appointed, and set on the ocean’s edge. Each comes with a private butler, and all have a private pier jutting out into the ocean. All have wide French doors and windows that open onto private decks and verandas and stunning views. Six of the seven come with a private plunge pool. There’s no restaurant or common lounge area here. All meals are served in your villa or out on your private deck or dock area. Service is attentive and pampering, and the food is excellent. Cayo Espanto is located just off the western tip of Ambergris Caye.

Cayo Espanto. 888/666-4282 in the U.S. and Canada. www.aprivateisland.com. 7 units BZ$2,590–BZ$4,590 double. Rates include 3 meals, all drinks (except wine and champagne), all nonmotorized watersports equipment usage, and transportation to and from San Pedro during daylight hours. Rates slightly higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Full-service dive operation; small exercise room; 5 small outdoor pools; room service; spa services. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minifridge, free Wi-Fi.

Where to Dine

In San Pedro

Seafood is, of course, the most popular food on the island, and there’s plenty of it around all year. However, please keep in mind that there are seasons for lobster and conch (because sea turtles are endangered, never order turtle). Officially, lobster season runs from July 15 to February 14, while conch is available from October 1 to June 30. Local restaurants and fishery officials have struck a deal to allow lobster to be served in the off season. Supposedly this is lobster caught and frozen during the open season, and not while they are mating in the formerly closed season.

If you’re staying for an extended period, or have a room equipped with a kitchenette, you’ll find several good markets around town. The largest, most modern, and best stocked of these is Island Supermarket ( 226-2972), located on Coconut Drive.

Expensive

Blue Water Grill ★★ INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN This popular place has a broad and extensive menu, as well as a lovely setting overlooking the ocean and piers from the waterfront in the heart of San Pedro. While there’s a good selection of pizzas, pastas, and hearty dishes—such as grilled beef tenderloin with a Creole-mustard and black-pepper sauce and chicken breasts served with fresh herbs, walnuts, and blue cheese—the real reason to come here is for their inspired Asian fare. Start things off with crispy coconut-battered shrimp sticks with a sweet and spicy black-bean dipping sauce. For a main course, I recommend the Japanese spiced grouper with a sesame vinaigrette, or the massive surf and turf. These folks have sushi nights every Tuesday and Thursday. If you come for sushi, be sure to try their spicy scallop hand roll.

At the Sunbreeze Hotel, on the waterfront. 226-3347. www.bluewatergrillbelize.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$32–BZ$65. AE, MC, V. Daily 7–10:30am, 11:30am–2:30pm, and 6–9:30pm.

Red Ginger ★★ FUSION Housed in The Phoenix hotel and condo complex, this new restaurant serves excellent tropical fusion fare in an understatedly elegant room. When the weather permits, you can dine on a patio just outside. The long menu offers almost too many temptations. Start with some of the grouper ceviche marinated in mango-lime juice and ginger, or the pulled-pork empanadas. For a main, I recommend the grilled snook with a honey-soy glaze. The nightly chef’s tasting menu (BZ$80) is a five-course affair with a variety of choices to meet almost any diner’s desire. Lunch is an excellent deal here and features rotating daily specials.

At the Phoenix hotel, on the waterfront. 226-4623. www.redgingerbelize.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$34–BZ$74. AE, MC, V. Wed–Mon 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–9:30pm.

Moderate

Celi’s Restaurant SEAFOOD/BELIZEAN This simple restaurant serves dependable local fare in a cheery setting. You can dine either indoors or with your feet in the sand in the restaurant’s screened-in outdoor dining area. Stick to the seafood, which is plentiful, reasonably priced, and expertly prepared. Freshly caught fish, shrimp, and conch are prepared in a variety of sauces, and lobster and stone crabs are offered seasonally. For dessert, be sure to try some of Celi’s Caye Lime Pie. Across the street, Celi’s Deli is a good choice for sandwiches and light meals, especially if you’re planning a picnic on some deserted beach or caye. On Wednesday nights they have a popular beach barbecue.

On the beach at the San Pedro Holiday Hotel. 226-2014. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$18–BZ$32; burgers and sandwiches BZ$14–BZ$16; lobster priced according to size and market. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 5:30–9pm.

Sunset Grill SEAFOOD/BELIZEAN Set on a dock over the water on the back side of town, this place serves excellent local fare and fresh seafood in a convivial, yet relaxed, environment. The lunch menu is a bit streamlined, but includes snapper served blackened or with a coconut jerk sauce; however, I recommend the fish or shrimp burgers. For dinner, try the Mango Tango Snapper, which is a grilled filet of fresh-caught fish with a spicy mango glaze and citrus black-bean salsa. A big treat, especially for kids, is the periodic feeding of the massive tarpons who hang around the pier pilings here.

On the lagoon, center of town. 226-2600. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses dinner BZ$35–BZ$65, lunch BZ$16–BZ$34. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Wild Mangos ★★ INTERNATIONAL/FUSION Chef Amy Knox has won the Taste of Belize competition twice. The best seats at this down-home open-air joint are those on the outdoor, covered wooden deck. The menu is fairly broad and very creative. Start things off with the Tres Amigos, a selection of three different ceviches from their ample menu of creative ceviches. For a main course I like the pan-seared filet of fresh-caught Cobia, with a sweet and spicy ancho-honey glaze, or the Conchinita Pibil, a traditional Mayan pork dish slow-cooked in banana leaves. There are often nightly specials, and the desserts are delectable. There’s also a somewhat more streamlined lunch menu featuring excellent sandwiches, wraps, tacos, and burritos, as well as salads and other treats.

On the beach, just north of the Sunbreeze Hotel. 226-2859. Reservations recommended. Main courses dinner BZ$31–BZ$44, lunch BZ$16–BZ$25. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–9pm.

Inexpensive

In addition to the places below, Ruby’s Cafe and Celi’s Deli, on the ground floors of Ruby’s hotel and across from the San Pedro Holiday Hotel, respectively, are good places to pick up a light meal, and both specialize in fresh-baked breads and pastries and sandwiches to go.

Other dependable options include Micky’s ( 226-2223), which is a popular local joint; Caramba ( 226-4321), which serves a mix of Belizean, Mexican, and Caribbean fare; and Ali Baba ( 226-4042), which specializes in Middle Eastern cuisine. Caliente ( 226-2170) is a good choice for traditional Mexican food, including chicken mole. For a seafront seat in the sand, it’s hard to beat Lily’s Treasure Chest ( 226-2650), which is great for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Elvi’s Kitchen ★★ BELIZEAN/SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL Local legend Elvia Staines began selling burgers out of a takeout window in 1974. Today, Elvi’s is arguably the most popular and renowned restaurant on Ambergris Caye, with a word-of-mouth reputation built on the happy bellies of thousands of diners. The restaurant is a thatched, screened-in building with picnic tables, a large flamboyant tree growing up through the roof, and a floor of crushed shells and sand. You can get everything from Belizean stewed chicken to shrimp in watermelon sauce. For lunch, there are still burgers, including traditional beef burgers, although I prefer the shrimp and fish burgers. There’s live music every night, with Caribbean night on Thursday, Mayan night on Friday, and Mexican night on Saturday. Food specials complement the musical selections.

Pescador Dr. 226-2176. www.elviskitchen.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$17–BZ$75; fresh fish, seafood, and lobster priced according to market. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

Estel’s Dine By the Sea ★ SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL If you want to dine right by the water, it’s hard to get much closer than Estel’s. This casual place has a sand floor with heavy wooden tables and plastic chairs inside the main dining room, and a sand terrace outside with pure plastic patio furniture. A broad range of memorabilia and antiques line the walls, and there’s a piano in one corner. This is a popular place to start your day, with excellent huevos rancheros and breakfast burritos. The lunch menu features plenty of fresh seafood and fish simply prepared, as well as a host of Mexican and Belizean standards. Hosts Charles and Estella Worthington are usually on hand—they live upstairs. In general, it’s a mellow scene, attracting a convivial blend of locals and tourists.

Barrier Reef Dr. 226-2019. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$48. No credit cards. Wed–Mon 6am–5pm.

Jambel’s Jerk Pit ★ CARIBBEAN/BELIZEAN This long-standing beachfront restaurant serves spicy curries and jerk concoctions alongside local specialties. The coconut curry chicken is excellent, and there are several vegetarian options. Still, the spicy Jamaican-style jerk is the signature here, and you can get it served over fish, shrimp, chicken, or conch. Wednesday night features an all-you-can-eat buffet and live reggae music. The restaurant is housed on the second floor of an open-air two-story building just off the town’s small central park.

Barrier Reef Dr. 226-3515. Main courses BZ$25–BZ$35; lobster BZ$44. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.

South of San Pedro

In addition to the places listed below, if you’re hankering for good Italian food, head to Pinocchio ( 226-4447; www.pinocchioitalianrestaurant.com). The owners are from Rome, and everything from the pastas to the wood-oven pizzas is authentic and delicious. Meanwhile, the new Hidden Treasure ( 226-4111; www.hiddentreasurebelize.com) is earning raves for its creative local and New Latin cuisine.

Very Expensive

Palmilla ★★ INTERNATIONAL/FUSION This continues to be one of the most elegant and refined dining experiences to be had on Ambergris Caye. The chef here always takes the freshest of local ingredients and prepares them with a creative blend of techniques and spices, influenced by a range of cuisines from around the world. The menu changes regularly, but might include cashew-crusted grouper or a pecan-crusted chicken breast. You can choose a table in the formal dining room, with its orgy of white linens, walls, and orchids, or dine alfresco by candlelight at one of the heavy wooden tables on the outdoor poolside deck. Save room for dessert, as the molten chocolate cake and rum-soaked bread pudding are both to die for.

At Victoria House, south of downtown San Pedro. 226-2067. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$32–BZ$64. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30–9pm.

On North Ambergris Caye

Despite its relative isolation, the northern section of Ambergris Caye has perhaps the island’s greatest concentration of truly excellent eateries. If you’re staying in San Pedro or on the southern half of the island, you’ll need to take a water taxi. Most of these restaurants will be able to arrange this for you, usually at a reduced rate from the going fare.

Expensive

Capricorn Restaurant ★ INTERNATIONAL/SEAFOOD Grab one of the outdoor tables here on the wraparound seafront veranda of this boutique hotel’s little restaurant. If these are all filled, don’t despair, as you’ll also be able to watch the water through the wide windows of the small dining room, which are almost always thrown open. Start things off with some fresh ceviche or some peel-and-eat shrimp. Be sure to ask about the nightly specials. For a main, I like the crab cakes made with local Stone Crab claws, although this can also be ordered as an appetizer. There’s always fresh fish, and conch, stone crabs, scallops, or lobster depending on season and availability, as well as a selection of steak, chicken, and pork entrees.

At Capricorn Hotel, on northern end of Ambergris Caye. 226-2809. www.capricornresort.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$36–BZ$70. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues 8–10am, 11:30am–2pm, and 6–9pm.

Mambo ★★ FUSION/INTERNATIONAL The eclectic menu here touches on a wide range of world cuisines. From the seared scallops in Jamaican jerk sauce to the filet mignon with blue cheese crust drizzled with an orange-balsamic reduction, the food and presentation here are top-notch. I also enjoyed the mango-and-ginger-glazed pork chops, and the warm chocolate soufflé is one of the best desserts I’ve tasted in Belize. The restaurant features an excellent and extensive wine list. And for those who want to keep on enjoying the finer things in life after dinner, these folks also offer a selection of Cuban cigars and cognacs. Service is attentive and professional, and the ambience is elegant without being stuffy.

At Mata Chica, on the northern end of Ambergris Caye. 220-5010. Reservations required. Main courses BZ$32–BZ$64. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6–10pm.

Rendezvous Restaurant & Winery ★★ THAI This refined restaurant serves excellent French-influenced Thai cuisine. You’ll find Thai classics, such as pad Thai and Larb Nua, a delicious cold beef salad, right alongside Cioppini Exotica, a Mediterranean-inspired seafood stew. There’s a relaxed semiformal air to the whole operation, with subdued lighting and cushioned rattan chairs. For a treat, reserve the chef’s table, beside the open kitchen, and order the chef’s nightly tasting menu. They produce a few wine varieties right on-site, with imported grape juices. I find these to be pretty immature and thin; you’d do much better to buy an imported bottle off their more traditional wine list.

7km (4 1/3 miles) north of Cut, on the northern section of Ambergris Caye. 226-3426. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$38–BZ$68. MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–2pm and 6–9pm.

Rojo Lounge ★★★ FUSION Self-taught chef and owner Jeff Spiegel and his partner Vivian Yu have created an elegant and ultrahip open-air restaurant. There are traditional chairs, as well as couch and plush chair seating, on a broad open deck facing the sea. There’s even a table and some bedlike cushions set in a small pool just off the main dining area. It’s always wise to try the nightly specials, but whatever you do, don’t miss the chorizo, shiitake, and shrimp pot stickers. The guava-glazed baby back ribs are also spectacular. If you’re more interested in seafood, there are both crab and grouper cakes, or you could have some homemade conch sausage on a fresh pizza. This place has an extensive wine list, as well as an immense and fabulously stocked bar, and an on-site gourmet market and deli.

At Azul Resort, on the northern section of Ambergris Caye. 226-4012. www.azulbelize.com. Reservations required. Main courses BZ$36–BZ$68. MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–10pm.

Ambergris Caye After Dark

Ambergris Caye is a popular beach and dive destination, and as such it supports a fairly active nightlife and late-night bar scene. I recommend one of the bars here built out over the water, such as Wet Willy’s ★ ( 226-4136) or The Tackle Box ( 226-4313), both located off the center of town and both occasionally with live music. Another similar option, The Palapa Bar ★★ ( 226-3111; www.palapabarandgrill.com), is located about 1.6km (1 mile) north of the Cut on the northern half of the island. This place also sometimes has live music, and boasts a great bar scene both day and night.

Alternately, you might try one of the beachside bars such as the Pier Lounge ( 226-2002) at the Spindrift Hotel, which features bingo on Tuesday nights, karaoke on Saturday nights, and the famous chicken drop, an island version of roulette, at 6pm every Wednesday night. Another popular choice is Fido’s Courtyard ( 226-2056), which has live music every night of the week. For a more chilled-out scene, try the open-air beachfront La Playa Lounge ( 206-2101).

If you’re looking for a dance club and late-night action, your best bets are the two traditional San Pedro discos, Jaguar’s Temple Club ( 226-4077) and Big Daddy’s (no phone), which are within a stone’s throw of each other on Barrier Reef Drive, near the basketball court and the church, just south of downtown on Coconut Drive.

If you’re the betting type looking for a bit more action than the chicken drop, try The Palace ( 226-3570), at the corner of Caribeña Street and Pescador Drive.

Caye Caulker ★★★

32km (20 miles) N of Belize City; 16km (10 miles) S of Ambergris Caye

Caye Caulker

While Caye Caulker is no longer the secret hideaway of a few happy hippie backpackers and chosen cognoscenti, it remains the epitome of a small, isolated, and laid-back Caribbean getaway. Unlike neighboring San Pedro, you won’t find any gridlock traffic here or be constantly run off the road by cars and golf carts. In fact, golf-cart traffic is relatively light, with flip-flops and bicycles fulfilling most of the transportation needs. Let’s hope it stays that way. Still, Caye Caulker has begun to experience some of the effects of the amazing boom going on just to the north on Ambergris Caye. There’s more and more development on either end of the island, and the long-neglected northern section of Caye Caulker—across the Split—is even starting to be developed.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

As with Ambergris Caye, you’ve got two options for getting to and from Caye Caulker: sea or air. When the weather’s rough, it’s bumpy both ways, although it’s certainly quicker by air, and you’re more likely to get wet in the boat.

By Plane There are numerous daily flights between Belize City and Caye Caulker Airport (CUK). Flights leave from both Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport and Municipal Airport roughly every half-hour. If you’re coming in on an international flight and heading straight for Caye Caulker, you should book a flight from the international airport. If you’re already in Belize City or in transit around the country, it’s cheaper to fly from the Municipal Airport, which is also closer to downtown and quicker and cheaper to reach by taxi. During the high season, and whenever possible, it’s best to have a reservation. However, you can usually just show up at the airport and get a seat on a flight within an hour.

Both Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 226-2435 in San Pedro; www.mayaairways.com) and Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. and Canada, or 226-2012 in Belize; www.tropicair.com) have 11 flights daily between Goldson International Airport and Caye Caulker, and they both follow the same schedule. The flights depart every hour beginning at 7:40am, with the last flight at 5:40pm. Flight time is around 15 minutes; the fare is BZ$126 each way. These flights actually originate at the Belize City Municipal Airport 10 minutes earlier. From the Municipal Airport, the fare is just BZ$70 each way. These flights take around 20 minutes because they stop en route to pick up passengers at the international airport. When you’re ready to leave, flights from San Pedro to Belize City run from 7:10am to 5:10pm. Most of these flights stop first at the international airport before continuing on to the Municipal Airport.

Almost all of the above flights originating in Belize City continue on to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Similarly, almost all the return flights originate in San Pedro. The flight between the two islands takes 10 minutes, and the fare is BZ$70 each way.

Connections to and from all the other major destinations in Belize can be made via the Municipal and international airports in Belize City.

By Boat Regularly scheduled boats ply the route between Belize City and Caye Caulker. All leave from somewhere near the Swing Bridge, and the majority leave directly from the Marine Terminal, which is located right on North Front Street just over the Swing Bridge; the boats are associated with either the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association ( 223-5752; www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com) or San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi ( 226-3535). Most are open speedboats with one or two very powerful engines, and carry between 20 and 30 passengers, making the trip in about 45 minutes. Almost all of these boats stop to drop off and pick up passengers on St. George’s Caye when there’s demand. If you’re going to Ambergris or St. George’s from Caye Caulker, these boats all continue on and will take you there. Find out on Caye Caulker just where and when they stop. The schedule is subject to change, but boats for Caye Caulker leave the Marine Terminal roughly every 90 minutes beginning at 8am, with the last boat leaving at 4:30pm. The fare is BZ$20 one-way; BZ$40 round-trip between Belize City and Caye Caulker; and BZ$20 one-way between Caye Caulker and San Pedro. See “A Small Caye on the Way” for more details about St. George’s.

In addition to the above-mentioned companies, the Triple J ( 223-3464) leaves from Courthouse pier near the Marine Terminal every day at 8 and 10:30am, noon, and 3pm, returning from Caye Caulker at 7:30 and 9:30am, and 1:30 and 4pm. The rates for the Triple J are similar to those listed above.

It is possible to purchase a seat in advance by visiting the Marine Terminal personally. This is a good idea in the high season, although in most cases you’ll need to purchase the ticket in cash, upfront. Some Belize City hotels provide this service, or they can get you a confirmed reservation by phone.

What’s in a Name?

The Spanish called this little island “Cayo Hicaco.” Hicaco is Spanish for the coco plum palm. Some say the name comes from the fact that ships used to be caulked in the shallow calm waters off the back side of this island, hence Caye Caulker. However, a third theory purports that the island appears as Caye Corker on several early British maps. This line of reasoning claims that early sailors and pirates stopped to fill and then “cork” their water bottles with the abundant fresh water found here.

Getting Around

Caye Caulker is small. You can easily walk from one end of the island to the other in around 20 minutes. If you want to cover more ground quickly, a bicycle is your best bet. Many hotels have their own for guests to use free of charge or for a slight rental fee. If not, you can rent a bicycle in town. There are several places on Front Street that rent bicycles. Rates run around BZ$20 to BZ$30 per day.

While I think it’s really unnecessary, you can also rent a golf cart from Caye Caulker Golf Rentals ( 226-0237), C & N Golf Carts ( 226-0252), or Jasmine Cart Rentals ( 206-0212). Rates run around BZ$120 to BZ$180 per day for a four-seat cart. Hourly rates are between BZ$30 and BZ$40.

Orientation

Most boats dock at the pier jutting off Front Street at a spot called Front Bridge—so named because this is the front side of the island facing the reef (east). The town extends north and south from here. As you debark, if you kept walking straight ahead, you’d soon come to the western side of the island and the Back Bridge or dock, where some of the boats dock. Caye Caulker consists of two or three main north–south sand roads, a few cross streets, and numerous paths. The closest street to the water on the east side of the island is Front Street. The next street in is called either Middle Street or Hicaco Avenue, and the next street to the west is called alternately Back Street or Langosta Avenue. The small Caye Caulker airstrip is located on the southern outskirts of the town. At the north end of town, you’ll find the Split or Cut, the town’s prime swimming and sunbathing spot.

Much of Caye Caulker is uninhabited. The small town and inhabited sections are quite concentrated.

Though Caye Caulker is still a relatively safe place, it is not advisable to leave money or valuables in your hotel room, except in a safe.

Fast Facts For the local police, dial 911, or 226-2022; for the fire department, dial 226-0353. In the case of a medical emergency, call the Caye Caulker Health Clinic ( 226-0166).

Atlantic Bank ( 226-0207) is located on Back Street, near the center of the island, and has an ATM that accepts international credit and debit cards. The post office ( 226-2325) is also located on Back Street; it’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and from 1 to 5pm. There are several Internet cafes on the island; just walk along Front Street and find one with an open terminal. I like Caye Caulker Cyber Café, which serves drinks—and even has a popular happy hour with reduced rates on drinks and Internet usage. They also have a good book-swap library.

Most hotels provide laundry service, but pricing varies widely, so ask first. There are several coin-operated and full-service laundromats on Caye Caulker, all in the central downtown area. Almost all of these are a better deal than going with your hotel’s service.

Slow Ride

The unofficial, yet almost universal, motto on Caye Caulker is “Go Slow.”

What to See & Do

The main activities on Caye Caulker itself are strolling up and down the sand streets, and swimming and sunbathing off the docks. The most popular spot is at the north end of the island by the Split ★. The Split was formed in 1961 when Hurricane Hattie literally split the island in two. You’ll find the water’s edge rimmed with a nice wooden dock, and there’s even a decent little patch of beach and a roped-off swimming area. The water is very calm by the Split, making it a good place to practice if you’re an inexperienced snorkeler. Take care when swimming off the docks here. The Split is an active channel with regular boat traffic. At least one swimmer has been killed by a boat, so stick to designated swimming areas, away from obvious boat channels. Also, when the tides are running strong, there’s quite a bit of current through the Split, and it’s easy to get dragged along for a few hundred yards or so. If you do get caught in this current, treat it like any riptide: Don’t panic, and swim diagonally across the current to get out of it.

Aside from the Split, and as on Ambergris Caye, there is not much beach to speak of on the rest of the island. There is a narrow strip of sand for much of the length of the island, where the land meets the sea, but even at low tide it isn’t wide enough for you to unroll a beach towel on in most places. In fact, along most of its length this is a small bike and footpath that is probably the busiest thoroughfare on Caye Caulker. Just off the coast, for the first 100 yards (300 ft.) or more out from shore, the bottom is covered with sea grass, which is protected by national law. Beneath the grass is a layer of spongy roots and organic matter topped with a thin layer of white sand. Be careful when walking on this spongy sand, as you might encounter a sea urchin or stingray, and it’s easy to trip and stumble.

Several of the hotels have built long piers out into the sea, with steps down into the water, and swimming is best here. Beyond this, some of the best swimming can be had from boats anchored out in the turquoise waters between the shore and the reef, or by taking a kayak offshore a little way.

As on Ambergris Caye, snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing are the main draws here. All are excellent.

On & Under the Water

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling ★★★

There’s excellent diving and snorkeling close to Caye Caulker. Within a 5- to 20-minute boat ride from the pier lie some world-class dive sites ★★, including Caye Caulker North Cut, Coral Gardens, Pyramid Flats, Sponge Avenue, and Amigos Wreck. As on Ambergris Caye, a day’s diving here will almost always feature a mix of steep wall drops and coral caverns and tunnels. In addition, in Caye Caulker you can dive on the wreck of a 15m (49-ft.) boat and among huge canyons of coral. You’ll see brilliant coral and sponge formations, as well as a wealth of colorful marine life. The wreck and canyons are prime spots to spot giant grouper, and rays and turtles are fairly common here as well.

There are several dependable dive operators on Caye Caulker. Rates are pretty standardized, and you should be able to get deals on multiday, multidive packages. The best dive operations on the island are Belize Diving Services ★★ ( 226-0143; www.belizedivingservice.com), Big Fish Dive Center ( 226-0450), and Frenchie’s Diving ★ ( 226-0234; www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com). Of these, Belize Dive Center is the most up-to-date, with top-notch equipment and mixed-gas and technical diving capabilities. All of these operators charge BZ$100 to BZ$180 for a local two-tank dive, with equipment rental running around BZ$50 to BZ$60 for a complete package and BZ$16 to BZ$30 for a mask, snorkel, and fins.

For more adventurous diving, you’ll probably want to head out to the Turneffe Island Atoll ★★, Lighthouse Reef ★★, and Blue Hole ★★. All of the dive operations on Caye Caulker offer this trip or will subcontract it out. It’s about a 2- to 3-hour ride each way—depending upon the speed of your boat—over sometimes rough seas. Most day trips out to Turneffe Island or Lighthouse Reef and Blue Hole run around BZ$400 to BZ$500 per person, including transportation, two or three dives, tanks, and weights, as well as lunch and snacks. For more information on these dive sites.

Caye Caulker is another excellent place to learn how to scuba dive. Resort courses will give you an excellent 1-day introduction into the world of scuba diving, including a very controlled shallow-water boat dive. These courses cost BZ$200 to BZ$300. In 3 to 4 days, however, you can get your full open-water certification. These courses cost between BZ$700 and BZ$900, including all equipment rentals, class materials, and the processing of your certification, as well as four open-water and reef dives. All of the above-mentioned dive operations offer these courses.

There are a host of boats on Caye Caulker offering snorkeling trips, and most of the above dive operators also offer snorkeling trips and equipment rental. Snorkeling tours range in price from BZ$30 to BZ$60 for short jaunts to half-day outings, and BZ$100 to BZ$180 for full-day trips—a bit more if you want to jump on a trip all the way out to the Blue Hole. A full set of mask, fins, and snorkel will usually cost from BZ$16 to BZ$30 per person per day.

All of the Caye Caulker dive and snorkel operators offer trips to Shark-Ray Alley ★★ and Hol Chan Marine Reserve ★★. These trips cost between BZ$90 and BZ$280 per person, depending on whether it is a snorkel or scuba dive trip, how long the tour lasts, and whether there is a stop on Ambergris Caye. Many of these include a stop for lunch and a quick walk around town in San Pedro. See “What to See & Do” on for more information and a detailed description of Shark-Ray Alley and Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

One of my favorite options for snorkelers is a day cruise to Shark-Ray Alley and Hol Chan with Raggamuffin Tours ★ ( 226-0348; www.raggamuffintours.com) aboard a classic wooden Belizean sloop. The trip makes three distinct snorkel stops and includes lunch onboard the boat, snorkeling gear, and the park entrance fee for BZ$90 per person.

Chocolate & the manatees

Sure you can get candy bars, cakes, and a whole host of products derived from the fruit of the cacao tree here. But on Caye Caulker, when someone mentions “Chocolate,” they are almost inevitably referring to pioneering guide and boat captain Lionel “Chocolate” Heredia. Chocolate began his career as a fisherman, but he soon dedicated himself to the fledgling business of taxiing folks by speedboat back and forth between Belize City and Caye Caulker. This business soon expanded to include guided tours, snorkeling outings, and fishing adventures. Chocolate was also probably the first guide to introduce the popular day trip to see manatees and do some snorkeling at remote cayes. He and his wife, Annie, also led the battle to protect these gentle sea mammals and their feeding grounds, finally seeing the creation of the Swallow Caye Manatee Reserve (www.swallowcayemanatees.org) in 1999.

Chocolate ( 226-0151; chocolateseashore@gmail.com) still leads manatee and snorkel tours. These tours begin with a stop at the manatee-feeding site on Swallow Caye, before heading to either Goff’s or Sergeant’s cayes, which are little more than football field–size patches of sand with a few palm trees. The afternoons are usually spent snorkeling in the clear waters off these cayes, and lunching on the sand. These trips, which are also offered by most other tour operators on the island, include all transportation, lunch on one of the cayes, and several snorkel stops, and cost between BZ$120 and BZ$180 per person.

Sailing ★★

The crystal-clear waters, calm seas, and excellent snorkeling spots around Caye Caulker make this an excellent place to go out for a sail. Unlike on Ambergris Caye, there are no organized bareboat charters available here, but you can go out on any number of different vessels for a half- or full-day sail, a sunset cruise, a moonlight cruise, or a combined sailing and snorkeling adventure.

A day cruise including lunch, drinks, and snorkeling gear should run between BZ$100 and BZ$240 per person; a half-day tour including drinks, a snack, and snorkeling gear should cost between BZ$70 and BZ$120. Most hotels and tour operators around town can hook you up with an appropriate captain and craft. Or you can head out on the Shark-Ray Alley and Hol Chan tour with Raggamuffin Tours ★ ( 226-0348; www.raggamuffintours.com). These folks also run a regular 3-day/2-night sailing trip down to Placencia, sleeping in tents on small cayes along the way.

Fishing

Although not nearly as developed or popular on Caye Caulker, sport fishing for tarpon, permit, and bonefish is still excellent around the caye, and on the reefs and flats. There are several dedicated fishing guides on the island, and almost every hotel, tour operator, or dive shop can hook you up with a captain and crew for some angling. If you’re a serious fisherman, Angler’s Abroad Fly Shop ★★ ( 226-0303; www.anglersabroad.com) should be your first stop. Other recommended guides on the island include Porfilio Guzmán ( 226-0152) and Esley Usher ( 669-7585).

A half-day of reef trolling, casting, or fly-fishing for bonefish or tarpon costs between BZ$200 and BZ$400, a full day between BZ$400 and BZ$800. Deep-sea trolling for larger game runs around BZ$800 to BZ$1,200 for a half-day, BZ$1,600 to BZ$2,400 for a full day. These prices are per boat for two to four fishermen and usually include drinks, tackle, and lunch.

Kitesurfing & Sailboarding

With strong, steady, but not overpowering winds, Caye Caulker is a great place to learn or practice kitesurfing. The folks at Kitexplorer ( 626-4513; www.kitexplorer.com) rent out both kitesurfing and sailboarding equipment. They also offer an intensive 9-hour course in kitesurfing for BZ$740 that is guaranteed to get you up and skimming across the sea.

Kayaks & Other Watercraft

The calm, protected waters just offshore are wonderful for any number of watersports vehicles. Several hotels and tour operators around Caye Caulker have various types of watercraft for guest use, or general rental. Rates run around BZ$20 to BZ$30 per hour for a kayak; BZ$40 to BZ$60 per hour for a Hobie Cat or small sailboat; and BZ$60 to BZ$80 per hour for a jet ski.

Fun on Dry Land

Aside from sunbathing, reading, and relaxing, there’s very little to do on Caye Caulker. However, you should be sure to head south of town to the Caye Caulker Mini-Reserve, located on the southern outskirts of the town. The term “mini” is certainly fitting. Nevertheless, this local endeavor features a few gentle and well-cleared paths through a small stand of littoral forest. More serious bird-watchers might want to grab a boat and a guide and head to the northern half of the island, where 40 hectares (100 acres) on the very northern tip have been declared the Caye Caulker Forest Reserve. In all, more than 130 species of resident and migrant birds have been spotted on and around Caye Caulker. Another option for bird-watchers and nature lovers is to rent a kayak for paddling around on the lagoon and mangrove side of the island. No admission is charged to visit either of these reserves.

Excursions on the Mainland

If you’ve got island fever or Caye Caulker is your only destination, and you want to see more of Belize, several tour operators on Caye Caulker offer excursions to all of the major attractions and destinations around the country, including Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich, Mountain Pine Ridge, and Tikal. You can also go cave tubing in the Caves Branch region. Most of these tours involve a flight or two in a small charter plane.

The most popular and economical tours are to the Mayan ruins of Altun Ha or Lamanai, or a spa package and lunch at Maruba Jungle Resort. Various operators offer a combined trip visiting both Altun Ha and Maruba. These trips begin with a short boat ride to the mainland, followed by a minibus ride to the selected attraction. Prices for these trips run BZ$140 to BZ$240, although the spa treatments are extra.

For trips involving a flight, prices range from BZ$200 to BZ$400 per person, depending on the distance traveled and the number of activities and attractions crammed into 1 day. Any hotel or tour operator on the island can help you arrange any number of these tours. In most cases, these trips are subcontracted out to an operator based either in Belize City or on Ambergris Caye.

For detailed descriptions of these various destinations and attractions, see the respective regional chapters throughout this book. In addition to the dive and watersports tour operators listed above, Tsunami Adventures ( 226-0462; www.tsunamiadventures.com) is a good, all-purpose operator with an extensive list of offerings on and under the water, and all around the cayes and mainland too.

Shopping

In terms of shopping, you’ll be amazed by the number of small gift shops and makeshift souvenir stands lining the few streets here. As on Ambergris Caye, much of the shopping on Caye Caulker is typical tourist fare. Mostly what you’ll be able to buy are T-shirts and jewelry made by local artisans. Chocolate’s Boutique ★ ( 226-0151) has slightly higher-quality goods, including reasonably priced Guatemalan and Indonesian textiles, as well as some lovely silver and stone jewelry. And yes, the Chocolate of this shop is the same Chocolate discussed in “Chocolate & the Manatee,”

A couple of good art galleries on the island are Caribbean Colors Art Gallery ( 226-0208; www.caribbean-colors.com), which features some interesting original artwork and hand-painted silk by artist Lee Vanderwalker-Kroll, and Cooper’s Art Gallery ★ ( 226-0330; www.debbiecooper.artspan.com), which features the work of local resident Debbie Cooper and other local artists.

As I recommend elsewhere in this book, please avoid buying black coral jewelry. Black coral is extremely beautiful, but as with every endangered resource, increased demand just leads to increased harvesting of a slow-growing coral.

About the Water

Much of the water on Caye Caulker is collected rainwater. While it’s usually safe to drink, and most locals are used to it, I advise visitors to stick to bottled water.

Where to Stay

Accommodations on Caye Caulker have improved over the years, but there are still no resorts or real luxury options to be had. In my opinion, this adds to the charm of the place. Budget and midrange lodging options are abundant, and some of these are quite comfortable.

If you plan on staying for any period of time, you should look into renting a small cottage, condo, or apartment. Look around for signs or bulletin boards, or check with Amanda at Caye Caulker Rentals ★ (/fax 226-0029; www.cayecaulkerrentals.com). Rates begin at around BZ$100 per night, although during the high season rates go up and longer stays are often required. Another option is the fully equipped efficiency units at Caye Caulker Condos (/fax 226-0072; www.cayecaulkercondos.com), which rent for between BZ$220 and BZ$270 per night.

Expensive

Caye Reef ★★ Fronting the ocean toward the north end of the caye, the two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo units here are fresh, clean, and well-equipped. Every unit comes with an ocean-facing balcony and is decorated with bright Caribbean colors and original local artwork. The rooftop pool, Jacuzzi, and lounge area is a highlight. Cleaning is only once weekly, but that frequency can be increased for a BZ$20 daily fee. Hot water is solar-heated, and the owners are consciously trying to be sustainable.

Front St. (P.O. Box 31), Caye Caulker. /fax 226-0381 or 610-0240. www.cayereef.com. 6 units. BZ$390 condo; BZ$430 penthouse. Rates slightly higher during peak weeks; lower during the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Iguana Reef ★★ This is the closest thing to a resort hotel on Caye Caulker. The spacious rooms are housed in several two-story concrete-block structures. All rooms come with air-conditioning, a stocked minibar, and a programmable safe. The deluxe units have a sitting area, a stereo CD player, and a semiprivate veranda. Iguana Reef, which is on the lagoon or back side of the island, has a large and comfortable sandy area for lounging, with a pier leading off this to a nice swimming spot. This is also arguably the best spot on the island to catch a sunset. The hotel also has a very inviting pool.

Back St. (P.O. Box 31), Caye Caulker. 226-0213. Fax 226-0087. www.iguanareefinn.com. 12 units. BZ$270–BZ$330 double; BZ$750 penthouse. Rates include continental breakfast. Rates slightly higher during peak weeks; lower during the off season. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary kayak use; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, stocked minifridge, no phone.

Moderate

In addition to the places listed below, Popeye’s Beach Resort ( 226-0032; www.popeyesbeachresort.com) is another good option in this price range, with air-conditioned rooms and an oceanfront setting.

Lazy Iguana Bed & Breakfast ★ Housed in an interesting four-story octagonal building, this little bed-and-breakfast offers comfortable rooms in a quiet setting on the back side of the island. Three of the rooms have queen beds, and one comes with two twin beds. All of the rooms are spacious and immaculate. Breakfasts always include a couple of freshly baked items, and plenty of fresh fruit and strong coffee. One of the nicest features here is the open-air fourth-floor thatched terrace, which offers excellent 360-degree views of the island, and has a couple of hammocks perfect for an afternoon siesta. Guests have free use of bicycles, and there’s a small lounge with a lending library and cable television.

2 blocks north of the airstrip on the lagoon side (P.O. Box 59), Caye Caulker. 226-0350. Fax 226-0320. www.lazyiguana.net. 4 units. BZ$210 double. Rates include full breakfast. Rates higher during peak weeks; lower during the off season. MC, V. In room: A/C, minifridge, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Seaside Cabanas ★★ This hotel is built in a horseshoe around a small rectangular pool, with a broad wooden deck around it. All the rooms are spacious and painted in lively yellows and reds, and feature modern decorative touches. Four of the rooms come with private rooftop lounge areas with hammocks strung under an open-air thatch roof. These are by far my favorite rooms, but I also like no. 6, a second-floor unit with a small private balcony. There’s no restaurant here, but they have a lively bar and an excellent in-house tour operation.

Front St. (P.O. Box 39), Caye Caulker. 226-0498. Fax 226-0125. www.seasidecabanas.com. 17 units. BZ$210–BZ$260 double. Rates slightly higher during peak weeks; lower during the off season. No children 9 and under allowed. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; bike rental; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, minifridge, no phone.

Inexpensive

There are literally scores of budget options on Caye Caulker. I list my favorite and the most dependable options below. In addition to these, Yuma’s House Belize ( 206-0019; www.yumashousebelize.com) is your best bet. Formerly known as Tina’s Backpacker’s Hostel, this place offers clean, basic rooms with an oceanfront location and very lively, hostel-like atmosphere.

De Real Macaw This place is located just north of the center of town, across from a string of makeshift artisan stalls and streetside restaurants on Front Street. The hotel is its own little compound, around a central sandy garden area, with a few tall shade trees hung with hammocks. The two “beachfront” rooms are the best rooms here, but all are very clean and well kept, with tile floors, tiny television sets, and a front porch or balcony. Most of the rooms come with air-conditioning, but you’ll pay a little more for it. The two-bedroom “condo” and separate beach house both come with a full kitchen, and these folks also rent out fully furnished apartments on a weekly basis, located a little bit away toward the center of town.

Front St., north of Front Bridge, Caye Caulker. 226-0459. Fax 226-0497. www.derealmacaw.biz. 7 units. BZ$50–BZ$110 double with no A/C; BZ$120–BZ$140 double with A/C; BZ$240–BZ$260 condo or beach house. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. In room: TV, minifridge, no phone.

Maxhapan Cabins ★ With just three rooms and expansive grounds located just outside of the “downtown” hustle and bustle, this place feels like a private oasis. Rooms are housed in two yellow wooden cottages set on raised stilts. The best choice is the individual cabin. Everything is simple, but kept immaculate. There’s a communal bar area, as well as a two-story open-air structure meant for chilling out. The owner, Louise, is almost always on hand, providing attentive and personalized service.

Just south of town on Center St. (P.O. Box 63), Caye Caulker. 226-0118. maxhapan04@hotmail.com. 3 units. BZ$118 double. MC, V. Amenities: Complimentary bike use. In room: A/C, minifridge, no phone.

Tree Tops Guest House ★ It’s hard to beat this place for value on Caye Caulker. Set just off the ocean in the heart of town, this converted three-story home offers clean, spacious, and cool rooms. There are four rooms located on the ground floor. Two of these share a common bathroom down the hall, but each has a vanity sink in the room itself. However, the best rooms here are the two top-floor suites. Each of these comes with a king bed and private balcony. The Sunset Suite is the best of these, with the largest balcony and views to both the lagoon and the ocean. If you opt for one of the standard rooms, however, you can still enjoy the view from the rooftop lounge area, which features several hammocks hung under a shade roof.

On the waterfront south of Front Bridge (P.O. Box 29), Caye Caulker. 226-0240. Fax 226-0115. www.treetopsbelize.com. 6 units (4 with private bathroom). BZ$100 double with shared bathroom; BZ$138–BZ$196 double with private bathroom. MC, V. In room: TV, minifridge, no phone.

Trends Beachfront Hotel Set right off the water and just off the main pier at Front Bridge, the rooms here are housed in a two-story wooden building painted in tropical pastel colors. The rooms are large, clean, bright, and airy, and it’s hard to beat the location. There’s also a separate, private bungalow, which is the closest unit to the water, and the best room in the house. These folks also run a separate hotel on Front Street a few blocks away. The rooms here are actually somewhat more modern, and most have air-conditioning; however, they lack the rustic charm and proximity to the water that you’ll enjoy at the beachfront option. The Sand Box Restaurant here is one of the most popular on the island.

Beachfront in the center of town, Caye Caulker. 226-0094. Fax 226-0097. www.trendsbze.com. 7 units. BZ$60–BZ$100 double; BZ$120 bungalow. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

In addition to the places listed below, if you’re hanging out by the Split, you’ll probably want to stop in at the Lazy Lizard ( 226-0368), a funky bar-restaurant serving cold drinks and a menu of local dishes, sandwiches, and burgers. And be sure to stop in at the Lighthouse Ice Cream Parlour on Front Street for a cone or a scoop of some fresh, homemade ice cream.

Moderate

Agave ★★ INTERNATIONAL This place serves excellent fusion-inspired contemporary cuisine. Tables are spread around a large, raised, open-air deck fronting Front Street. Inside there’s a chill bar and lounge area. Start things off with the excellent crab cakes, served with an orange vodka sauce, or the superb coconut shrimp bisque. For a main course, I like the fresh snapper filet with a spicy papaya glaze. There are also several nightly specials. The owner, Ricael Moran, is actually an accomplished “flair” bartender. If you ask nicely, he may put on a little show.

On Front St., near the center of town. 226-0403. Reservations recommended during the high season. Main courses BZ$20–BZ$32. MC, V. Daily 6am–9:30pm.

Don Corleone ★★★ ITALIAN/FUSION Contemporary lighting over the bar, combined with slow-turning ceiling fans and polished concrete floors, with heavy wooden tables set with linen tablecloths and fancy flatware, make this the most elegant restaurant on the island. New chef-owner Luca Michelus, from Trieste, via New York, has taken an already established hit and made it better. You can start with an excellent Caesar salad, or try the Watermelon salad with olives and feta cheese. If you don’t opt for one of the nightly specials, I recommend the tagliatelle with shrimp and lobster in a pink sauce finished with brandy; however, everything is done well. The wine list is varied and fairly priced.

On Front St., north of the center of town. 226-0025. Reservations recommended during the high season. Pizzas and pastas BZ$22–BZ$34; main courses BZ$28–BZ$50. MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–9:30pm.

Habaneros ★★★ INTERNATIONAL Although the name suggests a Mexican joint, the menu here goes beyond standard Mexican fare. You can get homemade pastas and Thai coconut curries, as well as Brazilian pork. You can also get spicy fajitas made of beef, chicken, or jerk pork. I like to start things off with the Creole Voodoo Cakes, pan-sautéed seafood cakes served with a spicy dipping sauce. The nightly specials tend to be inventive takes on whatever fresh fish and seafood has been caught that day. Heavy wooden tables are spread across the pleasant, open-air, wraparound veranda of this raised-stilt wooden home right on Front Street. There’s also indoor seating, but you’ll really want to try to grab one of the outdoor spots. Margaritas and sangria are served by the pitcher, and there’s a pretty good wine list for Caye Caulker.

On Front St., near the center of town. 226-0487 or 626-4911. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$34–BZ$48. MC, V. Wed–Mon 5:30–10pm.

Rainbow Grill & Bar SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL Built over the water near the center of town, this is a great place to dine to the sound of water lapping against the pilings below your feet. A dozen or so wooden tables with plastic chairs are set around the screened-in restaurant. The screen comes in handy, especially when the bugs are biting. Try to grab a table by the outer railing, closest to the water. Chicken, fish, conch, shrimp, and lobster are all offered in a variety of preparations from simply grilled or fried, to served with sauces ranging from lemon-ginger to Cajun. All are very well-prepared and tasty. The lunch menu is much simpler and less expensive. I particularly like the conch fajitas.

Over the water on Front St., near the center of town. 226-0281. Reservations recommended during the high season. Main courses lunch BZ$8–BZ$24, dinner BZ$12–BZ$44. MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.

Sand Box Restaurant ★ SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL This place gets its name from its sand floor, which extends both inside and out. I prefer the outdoor tables in the shade of broad-leafed sea-grape trees. Either way, you’ll be able to choose from an extensive menu of Belizean and international dishes. Seafood is the strong suit here, but you can also get chicken or meat dishes. You can have your fresh fish filet served with an almond-and-garlic-butter sauce or spicy banana chutney. Budget hounds can fill up on burgers, burritos, and quesadillas. The daily happy hour (3–6pm) is quite popular here.

Front St., on the waterfront, near the center of town. 226-0200. Main courses BZ$9–BZ$36. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

Inexpensive

In addition to the places listed below, there are several simple local restaurants serving fresh fish, seafood, and Belizean standards at very economical rates. The best of these are Syd’s Restaurant & Bar ( 206-0294) and Marin’s Restaurant & Bar ( 226-0104), both located on Middle Street, near the center of town. However, my favorite of these local joints is Rose’s Grill & Bar ( 226-0407), located on the side street, right next to Habaneros.

For tasty pizzas, burgers, and Tex-Mex at an excellent price, try Joe’s Habanero ★ ( 668-8177), a simple joint with a sand floor, run by the folks behind Habaneros (see above).

The best cheap eats on Caye Caulker are the various outdoor grills that set up nightly all along Front Street, offering chicken, shrimp, beef, and lobster (in season) at very reasonable rates.

Amor y Café ★ BREAKFAST This quaint and simple breakfast joint is still a great place for a breakfast or early lunch. Freshly baked brownies, banana bread, and whole-wheat breads are the mainstay here, served alongside strong coffee, cappuccino, or a fresh-fruit smoothie. You can also get eggs cooked to order or a hefty sandwich. The best thing about Amor y Café, though, is that its few tables are set on an open-air deck overlooking Front Street, so you get to watch Caye Caulker as it slowly wakes up and gets going.

Front St., near the center of town. 610-2397. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$4–BZ$12. No credit cards. Daily 6am–noon.

Glenda’s BELIZEAN/MEXICAN This humble establishment is one of Caye Caulker’s longest-standing traditions and most popular spots. The menu is written on a chalkboard on your left as you walk up to the open window into Glenda’s house. Order here, and the meal will be brought to your table, but don’t sit down and expect to be waited on. They specialize in simple Mexican fare, including burritos and rice and beans. Breakfasts feature eggs and johnnycakes, but the star attractions here are the fresh cinnamon rolls and freshly squeezed orange juice. There are only a few wooden tables with either plastic lawn chairs or folding metal card chairs; the best ones are on the small screened-in porch. Come early for breakfast if you want a decent seat.

In back of Atlantic Bank, Caye Caulker. 226-2148. Main courses BZ$1–BZ$12. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm.

Wish Willy’s ★ FUSION/SEAFOOD Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner out of his home’s kitchen, Belizean-by-way-of-Chicago chef Maurice Moore has built a reputation for serving excellent fare in a relaxed open-air yard. Tables are long picnic-style affairs that you’ll often have to share with others. There’s no set menu, but it is always built around the freshest ingredients available, simply grilled, or served with an Asian-fusion flare. Conch may come stir-fried in a teriyaki sauce, or in more traditional Belizean-style fritters. And while there are set opening hours, these may be reduced if Maurice’s mood or stamina flag.

On the north end of the island, lagoon side, Caye Caulker. 660-7194. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$18. No credit cards. Daily 7am–9pm (although opening hours may vary according to Maurice’s stamina).

Caye Caulker After Dark

For evening entertainment, you can stargaze, go for a night dive, or have a drink in one of the island’s handful of bars. Periodically, one of the bars will crank up the music, and voilà—a disco. In general, the scene is so small that most folks will congregate at one or two bars. Which one or two bars are happening might shift from night to night; ask a local or two, and you’ll certainly be directed to the current hot spot. My favorite bar is the open-air I&I Bar and Cafe ★ ( 625-0344), which features rustic wooden plank swings for most of its seating. The bar itself takes up the second and third floors of this thatch-roofed wooden structure and is located on a cross street on the southern end of town. Right in the center of town on Front Street, the Oceanside Bar ( 226-0233) often has either live music or karaoke, and the Barrier Reef Sports Bar & Grill ( 226-0077) has a good crowd most nights, with everything from trivia contests to sporting events to live music.

A small caye on the Way

Between Belize City and the popular tourist destinations of Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye lie scores of small islands and cayes. Of these, one is of interest to travelers, St. George’s Caye ★★.

St. George’s is the closest resort caye to Belize City, just 14km (8 2/3 miles) offshore. This tiny island played a crucial role in the country’s history. From 1650 to 1784, St. George’s was the first capital city for the early Baymen colonists, and it was also the site and namesake of the pivotal 1798 sea battle between the Baymen and a hostile Spanish fleet. Today, it is mostly a getaway for a handful of wealthy Belizeans who have vacation cottages on the caye. However, there is one excellent hotel here. St. George’s Caye Resort ★★ ( 800/813-8498 in the U.S. and Canada; www.belizeislandparadise.com) is a collection of individual wooden cabins built either facing the sea or on stilts out over the lagoon. The small resort has a pretty pool and extensive tour and activity options, as well as complimentary kayaks and Hobie Cats for guests. This is also a great base for scuba diving, with a dedicated dive shop and excellent operation. You’ll feel as if you have the island to yourself, although if you explore, you’ll find there’s a Belize Army base here. On one end of the island there’s a small but excellent private aquarium ★ ( 662-2170; daily 11am–5pm; BZ$6) that gives visitors a good look into the local marine life.

The Outer Atolls ★★★

40–80km (25–50 miles) E of Belize City

Roughly due east, out beyond the barrier reef, lie two of Belize’s three open-ocean atolls, Turneffe Island and Lighthouse Reef. The reef and island rings of tranquillity, in the midst of the Caribbean Sea, are stunning and pristine places. The outer island atolls are popular destinations for day trips out from Belize City, Ambergris Caye, and Caye Caulker. However, if you really want to experience their unique charms, you should stay at one of the few small lodges located right on the edge of one of them, or on one of the live-aboard dive boats that ply these waters.

Getting There & Departing

These are remote and isolated destinations. Aside from the lodges, which all offer their own transportation, there is no regularly scheduled transportation out here. However, private water taxis and charter flights can be arranged.

By Plane The only airstrip located on these outer atolls is the private airstrip of the Lighthouse Reef Resort on Big Northern Caye.

By Boat Turneffe Island Atoll is a 1 1/2- to 2-hour boat ride from Belize City. The lodges listed below provide their own transportation to and from Belize City as part of their vacation packages.

By Helicopter The quickest and easiest way to get out to these atolls is by helicopter. Astrum Helicopters ( 888/278-7864 in the U.S. and Canada, or 222-5100 in Belize; www.astrumhelicopters.com) will take you out here for BZ$2,500 in a helicopter that will hold four passengers, and BZ$5,000 in a six-passenger bird.

Exploring the Atolls

Unlike Pacific Ocean atolls, which are often the crater rings of extinct volcanoes, these atolls were formed over millions of years by a combination of plate tectonics, rising water levels following the last ice age, and millenniums of mid-ocean coral growth. Many of the atoll walls drop off steeply for more than a thousand feet, while in the central lagoons the water depths average only 3 to 12m (10–40 ft.).

Most folks come out here to do one of two things: fish or dive. Some do both. Both activities are truly world-class. In broad strokes, fishermen should head to Turneffe Island Atoll, while dedicated and serious divers would probably want to choose Lighthouse Reef Atoll, although there’s great diving to be had off Turneffe.

Turneffe Island Atoll ★★

This is the largest of Belize’s three ocean atolls, and the largest in the Caribbean Sea. Both the diving and the fishing here are excellent, but the fishing gets a slight nod. The extensive mangrove and saltwater flats are perfect territory for stalking permit, bonefish, snook, and tarpon. Most fishing is done with fly rods, either wading in the flats or from a poled skiff.

Turneffe Island Atoll also boasts scores of world-class wall, coral, and sponge gardens, and drift dive sites. Most of these sites are located around the southern tip of the atoll. Perhaps the most famous dive site here is The Elbow ★★★, a jutting coral point with steep drop-offs, huge sponges, and ample fish life. Another popular site is Rendezvous Point ★★, which features several grottoes that divers can swim in and out of, and there’s a small modern wreck, the Sayonara, sitting in about 9.1m (30 ft.) of water.

Lighthouse Reef Atoll ★★

Boasting nearly 80km (50 miles) of wall and reef diving, including some of the best and most coveted dive sites in all of the Caribbean, this is a true scuba-diving mecca. The waters of this atoll, the farthest one from shore, are incredibly clear and pristine. The central lagoon of this atoll is some 48km (30 miles) long and around 13km (8 miles) wide at its widest point. In the center, you’ll find the world-famous Blue Hole ★★, a perfectly round mid-atoll sinkhole that plunges straight down to a depth of more than 122m (400 ft.). You’ll see postcards, photos, and T-shirts all over town showing off aerial views of this perfectly round hole in the ocean. Nearly 305m (1,000 ft.) across, the Blue Hole’s eroded limestone karst walls and stalactite formations make this a unique and justifiably popular dive site. However, some of the wall and coral garden dives around the outer edges of the atoll are even better. Of these, Half Moon Caye Wall ★★ and North Long Caye Wall ★★ are consistently considered some of the best clear-water coral wall dives in the world.

Toward the southeastern edge of the atoll is Half Moon Caye National Monument ★★, a combined island and marine reserve. Half Moon Caye itself is the principal nesting ground for the beautiful and odd-looking red-footed booby. These birds are always here in massive numbers. The island is also a prime nesting site for both hawksbill and loggerhead turtles. The Belize Audubon Society ( 223-5004; www.belizeaudubon.org) has constructed a small visitor center here, and a wonderful viewing platform near the center of the island. They also allow overnight camping with prior arrangement. The admission fee is BZ$20 for Half Moon Caye National Monument and BZ$60 for entrance to the Blue Hole National Monument.

Water conditions here are amazingly consistent, with an average water temperature of around 80°F (27°C), while visibility on the outer atoll walls and reefs easily averages more than 30m (100 ft.).

If you want to stay here as part of a guided tour, I highly recommend Island Expeditions ★★ ( 800/667-1630 or 604/452-3212; www.islandexpeditions.com), which runs weeklong adventure excursions here based out of a private tent-camp on Half Moon Caye.

Where to Stay & Dine on Turneffe Island Atoll

Very Expensive

Turneffe Flats ★★ This is a superbly run fishing resort geared toward dedicated flat-water fly-fishing. Everything here is simple, yet luxurious. The rooms are all beachfront and housed in a couple of long, low buildings raised off the sandy ground just a bit on some wooden pilings. The rooms each come with one queen bed and one twin bed, large bathrooms, and a common shared veranda. Villas come with a living room and satellite television. Meals are served family-style in the main lodge or, weather permitting, outdoors on an open deck off the lodge. The fishing and dive operations here are top-notch. Packages are weeklong affairs, running Saturday to Saturday.

Blackbird Caye, Turneffe Island Atoll. 888/512-8812 in the U.S. or Canada, or 220-4046 in Belize. Fax 623/298-5008. www.tflats.com. 14 units. BZ$4,050–BZ$4,650 per person per week dive package; BZ$6,280–BZ$7,320 per person per week fishing package. Rates are based on double occupancy and include all meals, round-trip boat transportation from Belize City, and guided daily diving or fishing; drinks, gear rental, and national park entrance fees are extra. Combination packages are available. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; full-service dive and tackle shops; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, no phone.

Turneffe Island Lodge ★★ Located on a tiny private caye at the southern tip of the Turneffe Island Atoll, this is the swankiest outfit on the outer atolls. It even features a small outdoor oceanfront pool, a rare luxury out here. You can either stay in one of the well-appointed lodge rooms or opt for an upgrade to one of their eight private cabanas. One of my favorite features of these cabanas is the private outdoor shower. All rooms come with brightly varnished wood floors, wooden wainscoting and ceilings, and plenty of windows to take advantage of the ample sea breezes. The lodge has some excellent beaches and several long piers built out into the ocean with thatch-roofed open-air hammock huts built at the end. Both the fishing and the dive operations here are excellent.

Little Caye Bokel, Turneffe Island Atoll. 713/236-7739 in the U.S. and Canada, or 220-4142 in Belize. Fax 713/236-7743. www.turneffelodge.com. 20 units. BZ$4,000–BZ$6,000 per person per week dive package; BZ$4,600–BZ$6,600 per person per week fishing package. Rates are based on double occupancy and include all meals, round-trip boat transportation from Belize City, and guided daily diving or fishing; drinks and gear rental are extra. Combination packages are available. Rates lower in the off season. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; full-service dive and tackle shops; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, no phone.