Chapter 8: Southern Belize

Southern Belize has only two small cities, Dangriga and Punta Gorda, and one popular beach village, Placencia. This was once the least developed region of Belize, but that’s changed dramatically. Placencia is one of the hottest and fastest-growing destinations in Belize. And the tiny Garífuna settlement of Hopkins Village is also up-and-coming. Both Placencia and Hopkins Village offer some of the longest and finest sand beaches to be found in the country.

Southern Belize

Southern Belize is made up of the Stann Creek and Toledo districts. It is home to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, a major breeding ground and reserve for the New World’s largest cat, the jaguar, as well as several other lesser-known and virtually unexplored forest reserves. It is here you’ll find Belize’s highest mountain, Victoria Peak, which stands at 1,122m (3,681 ft.).

Offshore, you’ll find some of Belize’s most beautiful cayes and its most remote atoll, Glover’s Reef Atoll ★★. The cayes and barrier reef down here are as spectacular as those found farther north, yet far less developed and crowded. You can literally have an island to yourself down here. Much of the offshore and underwater wonders are protected in reserves, such as the Southwater Caye Marine Reserve, Glover’s Marine Reserve, Sapodilla Cayes Marine Reserve, and Laughing Bird Caye National Park ★★.

As historically the least developed and colonized region in Belize, the southern zone still maintains ongoing and healthy communities of traditional Mayan and Garífuna peoples. This is one of the few places on the planet where you can comfortably spend a few days in a traditional Mayan or Garífuna village and see how nice it can feel to step away from the 21st century for a bit.

Dangriga

116km (72 miles) S of Belize City; 103km (64 miles) SE of Belmopan; 77km (48 miles) N of Placencia

Dangriga

Dangriga, which means “sweet water” in the Garífuna language, was originally called Stann Creek, and you may still hear it referred to as such. The name Stann Creek comes from the Creole version of “Standing Creek,” a description of the river’s slow-moving waters. As the capital of the Stann Creek District, which is one of the main citrus-growing regions of Belize, Dangriga is an important and vibrant agricultural and fishing community. However, despite its size and almost urban feel, it lacks the seaminess that characterizes Belize City. The town fronts right on the Caribbean and has several waterfront parks, which are surrounded by simple yet attractive residential neighborhoods.

Still, Dangriga is of little interest to travelers. There are no good beaches and few good hotels, and the town can feel stiflingly hot and desolate on most days. Most travelers head farther south to Hopkins Village, Placencia, or Punta Gorda, or out to one of the nearby offshore cayes. Dangriga is the main maritime transportation hub for trips out to Tobacco Caye, South Water Caye, and Glover’s Reef Atoll. (See “What to See & Do,” below, for more details.)

Dangriga is the largest city in southern Belize and the seat of the country’s Garífuna culture. The Garífunas are a proud and independent people, who have managed to maintain their unique language and culture, which dates to the 16th-century intermingling of free Africans and Carib Indians. The only time Dangriga becomes a major tourist attraction is around Garífuna Settlement Day.

The garífuna

Throughout the 18th century, escaped and shipwrecked slaves intermarried and blended in with the native Carib Indian populations on several islands in the Lesser Antilles, but predominantly on St. Vincent. The West Africans were a mixed lot, including members of the Fon, Yoruba, Ewe, and Nago tribes. Over the years, the West African and indigenous elements blended into a new people, known first as Black Caribs and today as Garífuna or Garinagu. The Garífuna have their own language, traditions, history, and rituals, all of which blend elements of the group’s two primary cultural sources. African-style drumming with complex rhythmic patterns and call-and-response singing accompany ritual possession ceremonies spoken in a language whose entomological roots are predominantly Arawak.

The Black Caribs were fierce warriors and frequently fought the larger colonial powers to maintain their freedom and independence. In 1797, despite the celebrated leadership of Joseph Chatoyer, the Garífuna were soundly defeated by the British forces, who subsequently shipped several thousand of the survivors off to exile on the island of Roatan, in then British Honduras. The Garífuna began migrating and eventually settled along the entire coast of what is present-day Honduras, Nicaragua, Guatemala, and Belize.

The Garífuna reached Belize by 1802. Since the British colonial presence was concentrated in the north, the Garífuna chose to settle in the southern parts of Belize, particularly the Stann Creek and Toledo districts. During the early part of their settlement in Belize, the Garífuna were kept at arm’s length by the colonial Baymen, who were still slave owners and feared the influence of this independent free black community. Nevertheless, on November 19, 1832, the Garífuna were officially recognized as members of Belizean society and permitted to participate in the public meetings. For nearly 2 centuries now, the Garífuna have lived quiet lives of subsistence farming, fishing, and light trading with their neighbors, while steadfastly maintaining their language, heritage, and traditions.

The principal Garífuna settlements in Belize include Punta Gorda, Seine Bight, Hopkins Village, Barranco, and Dangriga, the community’s unofficial capital. Each year on November 19 (and for several days around the 19th), these communities, and in particular Dangriga, come alive in a riotous celebration of the Garífuna settlement and acceptance in Belize.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane There are numerous flights into and out of little Dangriga Airport (DGA) from Belize City. Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 522-2659 in Dangriga; www.mayaairways.com) has nine flights daily between the Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport and Dangriga. The first flight leaves at 8:10am and the last flight is at 5pm. Flight time is 15 minutes; the fare is BZ$126 each way. Maya Island Air also has daily flights between Belize City’s Municipal Airport and Dangriga at 8 and 10am, noon, and 2:30 and 4:30pm. The fare is BZ$72 each way. These flights take 30 minutes because they stop en route to pick up passengers at the international airport. Maya Island Air flights from Dangriga to Belize City leave between 7:35am and 4:50pm. Most of these flights stop first at the international airport and continue on to Municipal Airport.

Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, 226-2012 in Belize City, or 522-2129 in Dangriga; www.tropicair.com) has nine flights daily between Goldson International Airport and Dangriga, with the first flight leaving at 8:15am and the last flight at 5pm. The fare is BZ$126 each way. They also have five daily flights between Municipal Airport and Dangriga, leaving at 8:30 and 10:30am, and at 12:30, 2:30, and 4:50pm. The fare is BZ$72 each way. Tropic Air flights depart Dangriga for both of Belize City’s airports daily between 7:45am and 4:45pm. Flight time runs between 15 and 30 minutes, depending on whether there is an intermediate stop.

Flights to and from Punta Gorda and Placencia on Maya Island Air and Tropic Air stop in Dangriga to pick up and drop off passengers. You can also easily book a flight from Dangriga to either of these onward southern destinations. On both airlines, flights are sometimes added during the high season or suspended during the low season, so check in advance.

By Car From Belize City, head west on Cemetery Road, which becomes the Western Highway. Take this all the way to Belmopan, where you will connect with the Hummingbird Highway heading south. Ten kilometers (6 miles) before Dangriga, the Hummingbird Highway connects with the Southern Highway. Follow the signs into Dangriga; you’ll be entering from the south end of town.

Alternatively, you can take the unpaved New Belize or Manatee Road, which turns off the Western Highway just past the Belize Zoo, at around Mile Marker 30. The Manatee Road passes by the entrance road to the small Creole village of Gales Point and rejoins the Hummingbird Highway about 14km (8 1/2 miles) outside of Dangriga. This route is shorter as the crow flies, but in worse shape physically, so the going is slower. Either route should take around 2 to 2 1/2 hours from Belize City.

Welcome

As you enter Dangriga, you’ll come to a traffic circle. Be sure to take a moment to check out the Drums of My Father monument here, a larger-than-life bronze casting of three ceremonial dügü drums and the maraca-like shaker, or sísira. This simple sculpture lets you know right away that you are entering the heartland of Garífuna society and culture.

By Bus James Bus Line ( 702-2049) and National Transport ( 227-2255) have regular service throughout the day between Belize City and Dangriga, roughly every half-hour between 6:30am and 5:30pm from either the main bus terminal on West Collet Canal Street (National Transport) or the nearby Shell gas station on Cemetery Road (James). The fare is BZ$16. The ride takes about 3 hours.

Tip: Most of the buses take the Hummingbird Highway. A few take the coastal Manatee Road. Unless you are heading to Gales Point, I’d try to take the much more comfortable ride on the Hummingbird Highway.

By Boat There are no regularly scheduled boats from Belize City to Dangriga, but aside from flying, water is the most direct means of covering the 58km (36 miles) between the two cities. If you want to come by boat, head to the Marine Terminal or ask around the docks in Belize City. Expect to pay from BZ$300 to BZ$500 for a boat that can carry four to eight passengers.

If You Come to a fork in the Road, Take Both

Given the unique sights offered by the two possible routes down to Dangriga, you might want to consider taking one route on your way south and the other on your way back. The Hummingbird Highway passes through some of Belize’s most picturesque countryside. The road weaves through jungle mountains and crosses clear streams and small rivers. Admire the forest-covered karst hillsides to the west as you wind your way through mostly uninhabited country. The Manatee Road is a red-dirt affair, passing through the forests, lowland swamps, and mangroves that border Belize’s large southern lagoon. Still, this route is not for the faint of heart. In the rainy season it can get quite muddy and slick, while in the dry season the dirt can form a hard, jarring washboard and dust can be a problem. In some places you’ll have to cross single-lane, rail-less wooden plank bridges that give some drivers vertigo, even though they’re not very high.

Getting Around

There are no official car-rental agencies, but if you really search, you might be able to find an enterprising local willing to rent you a vehicle. If this is absolutely necessary, your best bet is to have your hotel try to arrange this for you.

For a taxi in Dangriga, call Cacho’s Taxi Service ( 603-4723) or Star Line Taxi Service ( 621-9956).

Boats to Tobacco Caye leave from the Gumagurugu River or North Stann Creek in front of the Riverside Café, just below the bridge. The going rate is around BZ$30 to BZ$50 per person one-way. Most of the boats hold between 8 and 10 people, and they leave whenever they fill up. If you already have a group together, you can hire one privately and set a definite return-trip pickup time. Alternatively, you can catch a ride with the folks from Pelican Pouch Beach Resort ( 522-2044), who run to Tobacco Caye daily and charge BZ$130 per person each way.

Orientation

The main street through Dangriga is called St. Vincent Street south of the main bridge over North Stann Creek, and Commerce Street north of it. Most of the town’s businesses and attractions lie within a few blocks of this bridge in either direction. The airstrip is on the north end of town, near the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort.

Fast Facts For the police, dial 911 or 522-2022; for the fire department, call 522-2091. The Dangriga Hospital ( 522-2078) is located on Courthouse Road, 4 blocks north and 2 blocks east of the main bridge. The post office ( 522-2035) is in the southern section of town next to the Bonefish Hotel.

Both of the principal banks in town are on St. Vincent Street: Belize Bank, 24 St. Vincent St. ( 522-2903), and Scotiabank, 10 St. Vincent St. ( 522-2031). If you need some film or developing, try either Dangriga Photo Plus, 64 Commerce St. ( 522-2394), or Gem’s Photo, 32 Oak St. ( 522-3859).

Finally, if your hotel can’t or won’t do it for you, take your dirty clothes to Val’s Laundry, 1 Sharp St. ( 502-3324). They charge around BZ$15 per load, and also offer high-speed Internet connections for a very reasonable rate.

FYI

North Stann Creek is also known as the Gumagurugu River in the local Garífuna language.

What to See & Do

The main activity in Dangriga is a slow walk up and down the main north–south thoroughfare. If you tire of watching the endless procession of people and listening to the colorful mix of English, Creole, and Garífuna, head a block or two over toward the sea and cop a seat in one of the town’s oceanfront parks. If you’re looking for a more active adventure, you’ll have to head out of Dangriga, but your options are plentiful.

The only true attraction in the area is the quaint little Gulisi Garífuna Museum ★ ( 669-0639). Although small, this is worth a visit. You’ll find interpretive displays of Garífuna history, culture, and daily life, spread around several rooms here. Three separate documentaries are shown continually on televisions in the different rooms. There’s a gift shop, as well as paintings by prominent Garífuna artists such as Benjamin Nicholas and Pen Cayetano. The museum is located 1.6km (1 mile) west of town, on the road out to the Hummingbird Highway. It’s open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm and Saturday from 8am to noon. Admission is BZ$10.

If you’re staying in Dangriga for any period of time, you may also want to visit any number of the relatively nearby attractions, including Guanacaste National Park, Blue Hole National Park, Caves Branch, Hopkins Village, and Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. For more information on the first three attractions, see chapter 10. For details about the rest, see below.

If your hotel can’t arrange things for you, contact C & G Tours and Charters ( 522-3641; www.cgtourscharters.com) or the Stann Creek Tour Guide Association ( 522-3641) to set up any number of tours and activities around Dangriga and environs.

Fishing The fishing is excellent out of Dangriga. Most folks head to the flats in search of bonefish, permit, and tarpon. Closer to shore and near the river mouths you can find snook, and beyond the barrier reef lie marlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo, and dorado. Ask at your hotel, around the docks, or at the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort ( 522-2044). Expect to pay between BZ$800 and BZ$2,400 per day for a full day for several anglers aboard a modern sport-fishing boat. Alternatively, you can line up a lower-tech outing around the docks for around BZ$100 to BZ$400 for a half-day.

Kayaking You can rent a kayak for paddling around the waters just offshore from the folks at Island Expeditions ★★ ( 800/667-1630 in the U.S. and Canada, or 522-3328 in Belize; www.belizekayaking.com). The rates are BZ$70 per day for a single kayak, and BZ$110 for a tandem.

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving Dangriga is the jumping-off point for some wonderful small cayes situated right on the edge of the barrier reef, as well as Glover’s Reef Atoll. Most of the hotels in town can arrange for a day trip of snorkeling or scuba diving at Tobacco Caye, South Water Caye, or one of the cayes composing Glover’s Reef Atoll. Expect to pay from BZ$160 to BZ$240 per person for a full-day snorkel trip out to the reef, including lunch and transportation. Add an extra BZ$120 to BZ$180 if you plan to scuba dive.

Attractions on the Hummingbird Highway

Located just off the highway in the tiny settlement of Pomona Village is one of the most important and renowned factories in all of Belize, Marie Sharp’s. The factory is small and simple, and depending on the time of year and demand, they may be making any number of their various hot sauces, jams, and chutneys. It’s best to call in advance to arrange a tour ( 522-2370; www.mariesharps-bz.com). If you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet Marie herself. The tour is free, but you’ll want to bring some money to stock up on the sauces.

Tucked a few miles off the highway is Five Blues Lake National Park ★. The main feature of this park is a large cenote, whose various hues of blue originally gave the park its name. However, in July 2006, the cenote suddenly and rather inexplicably drained almost completely. By early 2008, the lake had recovered about 75% of its original level, and much of its former beauty. All around the park are forested lands and distinct karst hill formations, with a series of trails leading through them. The park is run by the folks from the local community of Saint Margaret’s Village. The park and small village are located on Lagoon Road, just off the Hummingbird Highway around Mile Marker 32. There are about 4.8km (3 miles) of well-marked trails in the park. You can also take a refreshing dip in the lake, or rent a canoe for a leisurely paddle. Admission is BZ$10. Camping is allowed inside the park for BZ$8 per person. Some simple accommodations and restaurants are also available in Saint Margaret’s Village.

On the Road

As you drive the Hummingbird Highway, there are two interesting phenomena to be aware of. Locals swear a local mountain formation looks like a sleeping giant. There are several good views of the “sleeping giant,” which is best seen just slightly left of dead ahead as you drive south from Belize City, especially around the Sibun River bridge. Even more mystical and illusive—I’ve never been able to make it work—is the “antigravity” spot. Stop your car on the gentle hill around Mile Marker 26 and put it in neutral. Locals claim it is ancient earth energy that makes vehicles roll seemingly uphill. I’m guessing it’s an optical illusion.

Gales Point & the Manatees

Gales Point is a small Creole fishing village about 40km (25 miles) north of Dangriga. It is a peaceful little village where you can get in tune with one of Belize’s traditional cultures and its slower pace of life. The village stretches along a narrow peninsula that juts into the large brackish Southern Lagoon, which is also called Manatee Lagoon because the manatees that inhabit the water of the lagoon bring most people to Gales Point in the first place. Ask at the Manatee Lodge (see below) or around the village, and for BZ$60 to BZ$100 you can hire a small boat to take you out to where the manatees usually feed. The boats generally will hold up to eight people, so the more people you can line up, the less it will cost each of you. You can also ask around in the village about renting a canoe to paddle yourself out to where the manatees feed. I prefer this option, although be sure to get a lightweight modern canoe, as the traditional carved tree-trunk dugout canoes are a bear to paddle. Canoe rentals should run you around BZ$12 to BZ$20 for a half-day. Although once encouraged, swimming with the manatees is no longer allowed. The contact is potentially dangerous for manatees and humans alike, and it’s best to just enjoy a pleasant sighting of these gentle water mammals. In addition to the manatees, this is a fabulous bird-watching spot, and if you’re lucky you might even see a jabiru stork here.

Other possible trips from Gales Point include visits to the beach or some nearby caves and nighttime turtle walks. The beach on either side of the Manatee River is a major nesting site for the hawksbill turtle. The turtles generally lay their eggs from June to August. These tours generally cost between BZ$60 and BZ$120 for the boat and guide.

Gales Point is one of several villages in Belize to have a community-based ecotourism homestay program ( 209-8031). Rooms in local villagers’ homes are very basic and often do not have running water or flush toilets. The rates run around BZ$10 to BZ$16 per person. You can also camp in Gales Point at Metho’s Camping ( 603-6051) for BZ$10 per person, or stay in their rustic guesthouse for BZ$50.

By far the best lodgings in Gales Point are found at the Manatee Lodge ★ ( 877/462-6283 in the U.S. and Canada, or 220-8040 in Belize; www.manateelodge.com), a tidy little hotel with a fabulous location at the very end of the peninsula. If you decide to eat at any place other than the Manatee Lodge, check out Gentile’s Cool Spot (no phone).

Gales Point is also home to renowned drum maker Emmeth Young, who runs the Maroon Creole Drum School ( 603-6051; www.maroondrumschool.com). If you’re interested in a lesson, which costs about BZ$10 an hour, or in making your own drum, which will take around 4 days, ask around town for Emmeth.

To drive here from Dangriga, head out of town to the Hummingbird Highway toward Belize City. At the village of Melinda, you’ll see the turnoff for Manatee Road and Gales Point.

To get here by bus from Dangriga, you will have to take a Belize City–bound bus using the Manatee Road. These buses do not always enter the village of Gales Point. Ask in advance; if the bus doesn’t enter the village, you will have to hike or hitchhike the final 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) out onto the peninsula. From Belize City, you can take one of the Dangriga-bound buses using the Manatee Road. Again, ask in advance whether the bus enters Gales Point village.

Shopping

As the cultural seat of the Garífuna culture, Dangriga is a great place to pick up, or just admire, local arts and crafts.

If you’d like to have a look at some Garífuna paintings, visit the studio of Benjamin Nicholas ( 522-2785). Using a Caribbean naïve style, Nicholas paints scenes of traditional Garífuna village life. You’ll find his studio on the seafront, just north of Mahogany Street.

If the beat really gets to you, you can buy a handmade wooden drum from Austin Rodríguez ( 502-3752), at the Dangriga Cultural Center on the oceanfront on the north bank of North Stann Creek. Drums vary in size and cost between BZ$80 and BZ$300. Austin’s daughter runs a separate drum shop at 32 Tubroose St. ( 624-6756).

Finally, Mercy Sabal, 22 Magoon St. (no phone), has become quite famous for her handcrafted Garífuna dolls. These small dolls are predominantly of female figures in traditional dress, and cost between BZ$30 and BZ$100.

garífuna Settlement Day

Each year on November 19, Garífuna Settlement Day is celebrated in Dangriga, with Garífunas coming from around Belize and as far away as Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and New York. The celebration is a riot of street music and colorful parades. Eating, drinking, and dancing go on well into the night. The Garífuna have their own traditional music, which is based on wooden drums and choral singing. The rhythms and songs have strong African roots, and have given birth to a hybrid pop music called Punta Rock, which is probably the country’s most popular music and dance form. If you plan to partake in the festivities, be sure to book far in advance, as every hotel room in Dangriga and the nearby towns and villages sells out early. For more information, contact the National Garífuna Council of Belize ( 669-0639; www.ngcbelize.org).

Tip: Garífuna Settlement Day isn’t the only opportunity to experience the full color and vitality of traditional Garífuna culture. At the end of the Christmas and New Year season, on the weekend closest to January 6, the local Garífuna community takes to the streets to enjoy the Wanaragua or John Kunnu dancers. Wearing masks, elaborate costumes, colorful headdresses topped with macaw feathers, and vibrating arrangements of shells and vedas, Wanaragua or John Kunnu dance troupes parade through the streets of Dangriga, accompanied by the beat of traditional drummers.

Where to Stay

Moderate

Bonefish Hotel Located a block from the water and across the street from a small park, the Bonefish is an acceptable midrange option right in the heart of Dangriga. The carpeted guest rooms are generally quite large. The second-floor bar and restaurant has a view of the ocean, and serves good local fare and fresh seafood at reasonable rates. This hotel is owned and run by the same folks who have the Blue Marlin Lodge on South Water Caye, and is primarily used as an overnight stop for guests heading out to their island resort.

15 Mahogany St. (P.O. Box 21), Dangriga. 800/798-1558 in the U.S., or 522-2243. Fax 522-2296. www.bluemarlinlodge.com. 7 units. BZ$100–BZ$180 double. Rates include taxes and service charge. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, minifridge, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Pelican Pouch Beach Resort ★ This is a comfortable and spacious Caribbean resort, and it’s by far the most upscale option right in Dangriga. The rooms range in price, location, and amenities. The best rooms have second-floor ocean views with wonderful balconies, and I think they’re worth the splurge. There’s no real beach here, but there are plenty of palm trees, lounge chairs, and hammocks spread around, as well as a long dock out into the sea, which is your best bet for swimming. There’s a small gift shop featuring Garífuna crafts, Belizean books, and popular wildlife photography. The restaurant serves excellent Belizean and Garífuna meals at reasonable rates. A variety of fishing, diving, and inland tours is available, and Pelican Beach also runs a sister cottage resort, the Pelican’s Pouch, out on South Water Caye.

North end (P.O. Box 2), Dangriga. 522-2044. Fax 522-2570. www.pelicanbeachbelize.com. 17 units. BZ$180–BZ$230 double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C (in 12 units), TV.

Seaclift Bed & Breakfast Set on a quiet residential block fronting a small park and then the ocean, this little converted home offers simple rooms in a homey environment. The furnishings and decor are rather provincial, but the rooms are spacious and cozy. There’s a common living room and large ground-floor covered veranda area overlooking the sea.

1738 Southern Foreshore (P.O. Box 177), Dangriga. 522-3540. Fax 522-3538. www.seaclift.com. 3 units. BZ$150. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. In room: No phone.

Sea Front Inn As the name implies, this hotel is located right in front of the Caribbean Sea, a few blocks north of the docks. The hotel itself is a large, four-story building with a row of high-pitched gables and expansive seaview windows, balconies, and verandas. The furnishings and decor are quite simple, and rather dated, but most of the rooms are very spacious. Although it’s a steep climb up to the fourth floor, the two end units, Seahorse and Conch, are good options with use of a common oceanview balcony. However, the second-floor Manatee room, with its private balcony, is my favorite room in the house. The hallways and common areas feature interesting hand-painted murals of local characters, flora, and fauna. The third-floor restaurant offers fabulous views of the ocean. A wide range of tour and activity options is available. Fully furnished apartments are also available by the week or month.

Front St. (P.O. Box 20), Punta Gorda. 722-2300. Fax 722-2682. www.seafrontinn.com. 11 units. BZ$130–BZ$160 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Inexpensive

Pal’s Guest House This budget hotel is down at the south end of town, just off the water, near the mouth of Havana Creek. It’s clean and quiet, although the years and constant sea breeze have taken their toll. The rooms with shared bathroom are particularly small and basic. If you have a bit more money to spend, you should opt for one of the second-floor beachfront rooms in a separate building, which have air-conditioning and small private balconies overlooking the sea. The owner, Augustine Flores, is friendly, knowledgeable, and an active member of the local Garífuna community.

868A Magoon St., Dangriga. 522-2365 or /fax 522-2095. www.palsbelize.com. 19 units (16 with private bathroom). BZ$50 double with shared bathroom; BZ$80–BZ$105 double. MC, V. In room: TV, no phone.

Where to Dine

When you’re in Dangriga, be sure to sample some of the local Garífuna cooking. One staple you’ll find at many restaurants is a bread made from cassava, also known as yuca. The best place in town to look for traditional Garífuna cooking is the down-home Roots Kitchen (no phone) on the north side of Havana Creek, at the corner of Ecumenical Drive and Yemery Road. Be sure to try the hudut, a dish featuring fresh fish cooked in coconut milk, accompanied by pieces of plantain and cassava.

Up and down the main street through town—St. Vincent Street and Commerce Street—you’ll find numerous very basic restaurants. In addition to the restaurant listed below, The King Burger Restaurant, 135 Commerce St. ( 522-2476), which is not affiliated with the Burger King fast-food chain, is a local favorite serving simple Belizean meals heavy on the grease. There are also several very basic Chinese restaurants along the main street.

Moderate

Coconut’s Grill & Bar ★ BELIZEAN Located at the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort, this is easily the best restaurant in Dangriga. The dinner menu features spicy curry, served with fish, shrimp, or chicken, as well as thick pork chops in a fruit glaze. You can also get a real porterhouse steak and several pasta dishes. For lunch there are burgers, sandwiches, wraps, quesadillas, fajitas, and nachos. Or you can opt for a salad or more traditional Belizean rice and beans accompanied by fish or chicken. The best seating is on the open-air patio facing the ocean, although there’s also an indoor dining room for those looking for air-conditioning.

At the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort, north end of Dangriga. 522-2044. Reservations not necessary. Main courses BZ$18–BZ$48. MC, V. Daily 6:30am–10pm.

Taste of India ★ INDIAN With an extensive menu, fresh ingredients, and a talented chef-owner, this is my favorite restaurant in Hopkins. While the appetizer offerings are limited mostly to samosas, pakoras, and papadum, the main menu runs the gamut from curries and paneers to vindaloos and tandoor specialties. Portions are good-size, and the spiciness can be adjusted to your taste. I especially like the shrimp curry and chana saag, a spinach and chickpea combination. But the chicken tikka is also excellent. With a cement floor, exposed beams and electrical work, and rustic unmatched furnishings, the decor and ambience are rustic, to say the least. The best tables are actually outside, facing the beach.

Hopkins Village. 660-0971 or 604-0799. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$15–BZ$24. No credit cards. Daily 5–10pm.

Inexpensive

Riverside Café BELIZEAN This simple cafe and bar is funky and perennially pretty run-down. Still, it’s popular with the local boatmen and one of the best places to get travel information in Dangriga. It opens early and serves food throughout the day. You can get a full meal of fried chicken, beans, and rice for BZ$8. Breakfasts are hearty and inexpensive. This is the place to ask about rides out to one of the nearby cayes, to set up a tour around the region, and to pick up some brochures from the wall-mounted racks. You’ll find the cafe just east of St. Vincent Street on the south side of North Stann Creek.

S. Riverside Dr., Dangriga. 523-3922. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$20. MC, V. Daily 6:30am–9pm.

Dangriga After Dark

There’s not much happening in Dangriga after dark. Your best bets would be to see what’s happening at the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort (see “Where to Stay,” above) or the nearby Malibu Beach Bar ( 522-3703).

Beyond Dangriga: Offshore Cayes & Glover’s Reef Atoll ★★

The Tobacco Caye range of mangrove cayes lies just 16km (10 miles) east of Dangriga. A little farther south sits South Water Caye. Beyond the barrier reef and farther out to sea is Glover’s Reef Atoll.

Tobacco Caye ★★ itself is just 2 hectares (5 acres) large, with about five different lodging options set more or less side by side. You can walk from one end of the caye to the other in about 3 minutes, and that’s at a leisurely pace.

South Water Caye ★★★ is a little bit larger than Tobacco, but you can still walk from one end to the other in about 5 minutes. Nevertheless, the vibe here is slightly more spacious and luxurious than that on Tobacco Caye, although there’s not anything approaching real luxury here, either.

Located just a stone’s throw from the south end of South Water Caye, the Smithsonian Institute of Marine Research occupies all of the tiny Carrie Bow Caye. Your lodge can make arrangements to visit the caye, meet with resident scientists, and use their beach, which is one of the sandiest in the area.

The largest caye in the area, Man-O-War Caye ★★, is a bird sanctuary and major nesting site for the magnificent frigate, or man-o-war. A tour to the caye is an impressive sight, with hundreds of these large seabirds roosting on and circling above the tiny caye. As part of their mating ritual, the males inflate a huge red sack on their throats to attract a mate. In addition to the frigates, the island is home to a large community of brown boobies.

Coco Plum Caye is another isolated and tiny caye in this area, with one small resort that features a handful of individual wooden bungalows spread around the small, sandy island. If you want to stay here, contact Coco Plum Island Resort ★ ( 512/786-7309 in the U.S., or 522-2200 in Belize; www.cocoplumcay.com).

A visit to snorkel, dive, or stay out on these cayes usually involves passing through, or staying within, the South Water Caye Marine Reserve, which includes Tobacco Caye, Carrie Bow Caye, Cocoplum Caye, and Man-O-War Caye. Admission to the reserve costs BZ$10 per person per day. This fee will be collected by your hotel, boat taxi driver, or tour operator.

To the east of these cayes, and beyond the barrier reef, lies Glover Reef Atoll ★★★, a stunning natural coral formation featuring an oval-shaped central lagoon nearly 35km (22 miles) long. Named after the British pirate John Glover, the steep-walled reefs here offer some of the best wall diving anywhere in the Caribbean. The entire atoll is also a marine reserve, and in 1996 it was declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations. Inside the usually calm lagoon, patch reefs are a wonderland for snorkelers.

Finally, fishing for bonefish, permit, and tarpon is excellent throughout this area. There are no established independent operators. All the local hotels can usually arrange to set up a fishing trip, however.

Getting There

Boats to the outlying cayes leave from the south shore of the Gumagurugu River or North Stann Creek in front of the Riverside Café, just down from the bridge. The going rate is around BZ$30 to BZ$50 per person one-way. Most of the boats hold between 8 and 10 people, and they leave whenever they fill up. If you already have a group together, you can hire one privately and set a definite return-trip pickup time. To rent a whole boat, the going rate is from BZ$400 to BZ$600 round-trip for up to 10 people to Tobacco Caye. The ride takes around 30 to 40 minutes to Tobacco Caye, depending on how fast a boat you book. Add on about 20 to 40 minutes and between BZ$100 to BZ$200 for either South Water Caye or Glover’s Reef Atoll. Alternatively, you can catch a ride with the folks from Pelican Pouch Beach Resort ( 522-2044), who run out to South Water Caye daily and charge BZ$130 per person each way.

Note: You really should have a reservation before heading out to one of the lodges on these cayes, as there are very limited options and they fill up fast during high season. Try to arrange your transportation when booking a room.

Paddle to Your Own Drummer

The folks at Island Expeditions ★★ ( 800/667-1630 in the U.S. and Canada, or 522-3328 in Belize; www.belizekayaking.com) offer sea kayak rental and logistical support for those looking to explore the barrier reef and its many small cayes by kayak. This option is generally for serious paddlers, but can be tailored to suit your needs and abilities. The basic rate is BZ$70 per day and BZ$420 per week for a single kayak, and BZ$110 per day and BZ$700 weekly for a double kayak. Camping gear rental, food supplies, boat transfers to the outer cayes, and other types of logistical assistance can all be added on. And you can combine some independent paddle and camping time with one of their organized tours to Glover’s Reef Atoll (see below).

Where to Stay & Dine on the Outer Cayes

All of the options listed below are self-contained lodges and resorts, meaning you will be taking all of your meals at your hotel; all offer fishing, diving, and multiday adventure packages.

In addition to the lodges listed below, Blue Marlin Lodge ( 800/798-1558 in the U.S., or 522-2243 in Belize; www.bluemarlinlodge.com) is a semiupscale outfit on South Water Caye specializing in dive and fishing packages.

For the more adventurous traveler, Island Expeditions ★★ ( 800/667-1630 in the U.S. and Canada, or 522-3328 in Belize; www.islandexpeditions.com) and Slickrock Adventures ★★ ( 800/390-5715 toll free in the U.S. and Canada, or 435/259-4225 in the U.S.; www.slickrock.com) run various multiday kayak and dive tours to small camps and lodges on private, isolated cayes of Glover’s Reef Atoll.

Glover’s Atoll Resort ★ Located on the private North East Caye, lodging options here range from camping to dorm rooms to simple, rustic cabins with private bathrooms and kitchen facilities. My favorites are the wooden cabins built on stilts over the ocean. The resort also offers large, semipermanent tents, or you can pitch your own. And while they do serve meals, some of the guests actually pack in and cook their own food at the resort’s communal kitchen. In addition to what you pack in, fresh fish, lobster, and conch can be purchased on the island, as can drinking water and fresh bread. Most visitors here come as part of the resort’s weeklong package, which includes transportation. A meal package will run you around BZ$84 per day.

Glover’s Reef Atoll (P.O. Box 563, Belize City). 520-5016. Fax 223-5424. www.glovers.com.bz. 11 units. BZ$342 per week camping; BZ$458 per week in dorm room; BZ$574–BZ$688 per person per week in private cabin. Rates include round-trip transportation from Sittee River Village or Dangriga and all taxes. MC, V (add 5% surcharge). Amenities: Restaurant; watersports equipment rental. In room: No phone.

Isla Marisol Resort ★★ This place offers the plushest accommodations and best dive operation out on Glover’s Reef Atoll. A series of raised stilt bungalows are set on the sand under shade trees facing the water. Each comes with a fan and swamp cooler, as well as a small balcony for lazing around on between dives or activities. But the choice digs here are the large reef houses, located on the back side of this tiny island. These are large two-bedroom two-bathroom wooden houses, also on raised stilts, with expansive wraparound balconies and kitchenettes. After dinner, guests tend to congregate at the large bar built on a pier out over the water.

Southwest Caye, Glover’s Reef Atoll (P.O. Box 1410, Vashon, WA 98070, USA). 888/623-5403 in the U.S. and Canada. www.islamarisolresort.com. 14 units. BZ$3,590–BZ$3,990 per person per week, double occupancy. Rates include round-trip transportation from Dangriga, all meals, several daily dive outings, and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; full-service dive shop; small spa; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Pelican’s Pouch ★★ Run by the folks at the Pelican Pouch Beach Resort in Dangriga, this isolated island getaway is one of the best-run little resorts on these little cayes. The best rooms here are the individual cottages. Set on raised stilts by the water’s edge, these wooden cottages vary in size somewhat, but all are very cozy and charming. The Egret and Heron’s Hideaway are my favorites of the private cabins. The latter has a delightful private balcony set amid and surrounded by mangroves. The rooms are housed on the second floor of a converted colonial-era convent. Each of these rooms comes with one double bed, two single beds, and a half-bathroom. A couple of communal showers are located on the ground level. The relatively small price difference makes it very worthwhile to book one of the cabins.

South Water Caye (P.O. Box 2, Dangriga). 522-2044. Fax 522-2570. www.southwatercaye.com. 13 units (5 with shared shower). BZ$460–BZ$520 double room; BZ$530–BZ$590 double cottage. Rates include 3 meals daily and taxes. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Reef’s End Lodge Occupying the southern tip of Tobacco Caye, this rustic lodge offers several distinct rooming options. Most of the rooms here are located in a two-story converted house. Each comes with two twin beds and one full bed. The best of these are on the second floor, especially the corner units. The rooms are Spartan and are geared toward students, groups, and budget travelers. The private cabins are a better bet and not significantly more expensive; however, these also feel rather bare and rustic, although they do have air-conditioning. The best room is the honeymoon suite, which has more contemporary decor, tile floors, and loads of space. The nicest feature here is the restaurant, which is set on stilts, with a deck and some docks out over the water. These folks run the only dive operation on the island.

Tobacco Caye (P.O. Box 299, Dangriga). 522-2419. Fax 522-2828. www.reefsendlodge.com. 11 units. BZ$130 double room; BZ$150 double cabin; BZ$390 honeymoon suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; dive operation. In room: No phone.

Thatch Caye ★★ This new boutique resort was built with love, care, and real concern for sustainable development. Accommodations are in spacious individual cabins and casitas and one large family villa. The cabanas are smaller, built over the water, and feature thatch roofs and wonderful oceanfront balconies. The large casitas’ best feature is their huge, covered rooftop patios, with a couple of hammocks strung up under a high thatch shade structure on top. The family villa is three connected structures and is great for families or groups of friends. Solar and wind power are used to power the joint, although a backup generator kicks in when necessary, or if guests demand air-conditioning.

Thatch Caye (P.O. Box 133, Dangriga). 800/435-3145 in the U.S. and Canada, or 603-2414 in Belize. www.thatchcayebelize.com. 10 units. BZ$450–BZ$565 per person per day. Rates include 3 meals daily, and round-trip transportation from Dangriga Airport. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary kayak use. In room: No phone.

Tobacco Caye Paradise ★ This place is at the northern end of Tobacco Caye. The simple wooden cabins are set right at the edge of the ocean, with small private verandas that, in most cases, jut out over the water. These are very basic, with just cold-water showers, minimal furnishings, and a simple floor fan. Still, their location and general vibe are just perfect. There are also five other rooms in a building slightly inland. These are certainly acceptable, but nowhere near as nice as the cabins.

Tobacco Caye (P.O. Box 79, Dangriga). 520-2742. bluefield@btl.net. 6 units (4 with private bathroom). BZ$76–BZ$88 double with shared bathroom; BZ$108–BZ$120 double with private bathroom. Rates include 3 meals daily and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

En Route South: Where the Wildcats Roam

Weighing up to 91kg (200 lb.) and measuring more than 1.8m (6 ft.) from nose to tip of tail, jaguars are king of the new-world jungle. Nocturnal predators, jaguars hunt peccaries (wild piglike animals), deer, and other small mammals. The Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary ★★, established in 1990 as the world’s first jaguar reserve, covers nearly 388 sq. km (150 sq. miles) of rugged forested mountains and has the greatest density of jaguars in the world. It is part of the even larger Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve, which was created in 1984.

The forests within the preserve are home to other wildcats as well, including pumas, ocelots, and margays, all of which are very elusive, so don’t get your hopes of seeing them too high. Few people do, but a good guide may be able to find you some tracks. Other mammals that you might spot if you’re lucky include otters, coati-mundi, tayra, kinkajous, deer, peccaries, anteaters, and armadillos.

The largest land mammal native to Central America, Baird’s tapir, is also resident. Locally known as a “mountain cow,” the tapir is the national animal of Belize. A tapir can weigh up to 272kg (600 lb.) and is related to the horse, although its protruding upper lip is more like an elephant’s trunk.

Much more easily spotted in the dense vegetation surrounding the preserve’s trails are nearly 300 species of birds, including the scarlet macaw, the keel-billed toucan, the king vulture, and the great curassow.

Trails inside the park range from gentle and short to quite arduous and long. Many offer wonderful views of the Cockscomb Mountains and lush forested valleys. There are quite a few waterfalls and swimming holes. During the dry season, you can even climb Victoria Peak, which, at 1,122m (3,681 ft.), is the country’s highest mountain. This trip takes several days and requires a permit and local guide. For more information, contact the Belize Audubon Society ( 223-5004; www.belizeaudubon.org). Admission to the park is BZ$10.

Caution should be exercised when visiting the preserve. In addition to jaguars, which can be dangerous, there are poisonous snakes, including the deadly fer-de-lance. Always wear shoes, preferably boots, when hiking the trails here.

The Belize Audubon Society co-manages this park, and even offers a few private cabins and some dormitory sleeping options inside the sanctuary. Rates run between BZ$20 and BZ$30 per person for dormitory-style accommodations, or BZ$120 for one of the cabins, which can sleep up to six persons. Alternatively, you can stay down near the information center near the highway at the Tutzil Nah Cottages ( 520-3044; www.mayacenter.com).

Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary is located 9.7km (6 miles) inland from the Southern Highway, some 32km (20 miles) south of Dangriga. The turnoff and entrance to the sanctuary are at the roadside village of Maya Center. This is where you’ll find the sanctuary’s information center, and where you’ll pay your BZ$10 entrance fee. This is also a good place to check out some of the art and craft works at the neighboring shop run by the Maya Center Women’s Group and to hook up with a local guide. I’ve heard great reports about local guide Greg Sho, who can often be found at Greg’s Bar, his other business, located right on the side of the highway before the entrance to Maya Center. Any bus heading south to Placencia and Punta Gorda will drop you off at the entrance. From here you’ll have to hike the 9.7km (6 miles) or hire a local taxi for around BZ$30 round-trip.

A Nearby Back-Bush Nature Lodge

Nestled at the foot of the Maya Mountains is an interesting little ecolodge, Mama Noots Jaguar Lodge ★ (/fax 670-8019; www.mamanoots.com). With a collection of comfortable rooms, as well as camping and dormitory facilities, the folks at Mama Noots are located in the heart of the Mayflower Bocawina National Park. The park protects the small and barely excavated Mayflower Mayan ruins, as well as vast expanses of tropical forests. There’s excellent hiking and bird-watching on miles of trails leaving from the resort, including a couple of wonderful waterfalls. All of the electricity is provided by an inventive mix of solar, hydro, and wind generators. A pure mountain spring provides the water. Multiday packages with transportation provided from Dangriga are the preferred means of visiting this little lodge. Contact them for details.

Hopkins Village & Sittee River Village ★★★

140km (87 miles) S of Belize City; 127km (79 miles) SE of Belmopan; 53km (33 miles) N of Placencia

Hopkins Village is a midsize Garífuna community located on a pretty stretch of white sand beach, 24km (15 miles) south of Dangriga. It is a picturesque village with colorfully painted raised clapboard houses. It is also my preferred destination for getting a true taste of and some direct contact with this unique culture. This is a great place to wander around talking with children, fishermen, and elderly folks hanging out in front of their homes. If you stick around long enough, you may be able to learn a bit about traditional Garífuna lifestyles. Fishing is still the main pursuit of many of the villagers, although tourism is rapidly becoming the main source of employment and income.

Hopkins Village is set on a long, narrow, curving swath of beach, which in addition to Placencia is one of the few true beaches in the country. This white-sand beach is usually quite calm and good for swimming. In recent years, several beach and dive resorts have opened just south of the village, while in the village itself you’ll find a hodgepodge of budget lodgings and simple restaurants. Sittee River Village is a few miles south of Hopkins and a mile or so inland, on the banks of the gently flowing Sittee River. This is a tiny little town, but it does have a hotel or two, as well as a good Internet cafe. Fishermen like the quiet riverside setting and access to both fresh- and saltwater angling.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane The closest airport to Hopkins Village is in Dangriga. See “Dangriga,” earlier in this chapter, for flight details. A taxi from Dangriga to Hopkins or Sittee River village should cost BZ$80 to BZ$100 for up to four people. For a taxi in Dangriga, call Cacho’s Taxi Service ( 603-4723) or Star Line Taxi Service ( 621-9956).

By Car From Belize City, head west on Cemetery Road, which becomes the Western Highway. Take this all the way to Belmopan, where you will connect with the Hummingbird Highway heading south. Ten kilometers (6 1/4 miles) before Dangriga, the Hummingbird Highway connects with the Southern Highway. Take the Southern Highway toward Placencia and Punta Gorda. About 13km (8 miles) south of this junction, you’ll see signs for the entrance to Hopkins Village. From here, it’s 6.4km (4 miles) on a graded gravel road. A few miles farther south on the Southern Highway is the entrance to Sittee River Village; however, you can also enter at Hopkins and head south from there along the coast, as it’s really just a small loop.

By Bus Only a couple of the buses each day from Dangriga south make the loop through Hopkins Village and Sittee River. The ride takes between 25 and 35 minutes to Hopkins Village, with Sittee River Village just a few miles farther on the route. The fare is BZ$6 each way. Be sure to ask before you get on the bus if it will drop you off in the village. If not, you will be let off on the Southern Highway, at the entrance to Hopkins, but still some 6.4km (4 miles) away. If this is the case, you will hopefully have arranged pickup with your hotel in advance. Otherwise, you’ll have to hitchhike into town. The buses heading back to Dangriga or to points south can be caught in either Hopkins or Sittee River, or better yet, from the Southern Highway. See “Essentials” on for details on bus travel between Dangriga and Belize City, and between Dangriga and points south.

Getting Around

Hopkins Village itself is very small, and you can easily walk the entire town. If you’re staying south of town or in Sittee River Village, or want to explore, a bicycle is the preferred means of transportation. Most of the hotels will either lend you a bike or rent you one for a few dollars per day.

There are no official taxi services, but if you ask around town or at your hotel, you should be able to hire someone for small trips or excursions. There are also a number of freelance guides in the area who have vehicles and may be willing to provide transportation.

Orientation

The access road from the Southern Highway heads right into the heart of Hopkins Village. If you continued straight, you’d be in the Caribbean Sea. The village itself spreads out for a few hundred yards in either direction. Heading south you’ll come to the larger resorts listed below. At the turnoff and entrance to Almond Beach Belize & Jaguar Reef Lodge, the road heads back toward the highway, passing through Sittee River Village. Note: It’s only a 15- to 20-minute walk from the village to any of the resorts to the south, with the exception of Kanantik, which is farther away.

Fast Facts Both Hopkins and Sittee River villages are tiny, and there are no banks or major stores or services. There are, however, Internet cafes in both places, and you can get gas at the little marina in Hopkins.

What to See & Do

This is a very isolated and underdeveloped area. All of the resorts listed below specialize in scuba diving, snorkeling, and, to a lesser extent, fishing. All of them also have a long list of tour options to attractions such as Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, Sittee River canoeing, Blue Hole National Park, the Mayflower Mayan ruins, and cultural tours of Dangriga. If you’re staying at one of the lodgings in either of the villages, you’ll find numerous local operators offering snorkeling, scuba, and fishing outings, as well as all the above-mentioned tours. One of the better local operators is Bullfrog Adventures ★ ( 669-0046, or 665-3043; issymcm@yahoo.com), which employs all local Garífuna guides and boat captains.

If you really want to get a taste of the local culture, sign up for some classes at the Lebeha Drumming Center ★ ( 608-3143; www.lebeha.com), which is located on the northern edge of the village. The folks here teach traditional Garífuna drumming and dancing.

Snorkeling & Diving

Snorkeling and scuba diving are stellar all along the Belize Barrier Reef. The Tobacco Caye range lies just offshore from Hopkins Village, a simple 30- to 40-minute boat ride away, with numerous snorkeling and dive sites. Moreover, the location makes these dive resorts excellent jumping-off points for trips to Glover’s Reef Atoll and even Turneffe and Lighthouse Reef atolls. All of the resorts listed below offer multiday dive packages, which are the way to go for serious divers, though we particularly recommend Hamanasi. They also all offer certification classes and advanced open-water courses. If you’re not staying at one of the dedicated dive resorts, your best bet is probably to arrange to dive with them, as their equipment and dive masters are generally top-notch, and the price savings of going with a less active operator just aren’t worth it. If you’re feeling adventurous, for snorkeling excursions, ask around the village and head out with a local boat captain or tour guide. The lower cost and cultural richness might just make up for a slow boat, leaky mask, and loose-fitting fins.

Fishing

There’s excellent bonefishing in the inland and barrier reef flats in this area. Anglers can also go for tarpon, permit, and snook, or head offshore for bigger game. Experienced guides can help you track any of the above fish, which you can stalk using traditional casting and trolling techniques, or try catching with a salt-water fly rod and reel. Most of the major lodges and resorts here offer fishing packages and excursions. Well-equipped sport-fishing outings cost between BZ$1,000 and BZ$3,000 per day, depending on the size of the boat, number of anglers, and distance traveled. Alternatively, you can ask around Hopkins Village to line up a more low-tech outing for around BZ$100 to BZ$400 for a half-day.

Shopping

Hopkins Village is a good place to find locally made Garífuna handicrafts. Rudy Coleman is a local drum maker, and his drums are excellent. Ask for Rudy around town, or at the Lebeha Drumming Center.

Where to Stay

There’s a host of lodging options in this area, ranging from simple budget and backpacker hotels in Hopkins Village to upscale dive resorts on the beaches to the south.

Very Expensive

In addition to the places listed below, Belizean Dreams ( 523-7272; www.belizeandreams.com) is a condo-resort project on the south end of Hopkins Village, featuring a series of large and luxurious fully equipped condo units spread around a grassy lawn and pool area fronting the beach.

Almond Beach Belize & Jaguar Reef Lodge ★★ This large and lively resort offers the most facilities, lodging options, and tour options in the region. There’s a wide range of rooms and suites available here. Some come with kitchenettes, televisions with DVD players, and other amenities that make them good for families and longer stays. The second-floor colonial suites have fabulous ocean-facing balconies. Perhaps the best rooms here are the Almond Beach villas and suites. These all are spacious, are tastefully decorated, and come with a host of amenities. In addition to the on-site activities and services, there’s a small, full-service spa. If you just want to hang around the lodge, hammocks and Adirondack chairs are set under the shade of palm trees along the lodge’s white-sand beach. There’s complimentary use of sea kayaks, Hobie Cats, bicycles, and snorkel gear. There are two freshwater pools as well.

Hopkins Village (P.O. Box 297, Dangriga). 866/824-1516 in the U.S. and Canada, or 520-7040 in Belize. Fax 520-7091. www.almondjaguar.com. 34 units. BZ$400–BZ$650 double; BZ$540–BZ$3,500 suite. Rates lower in the off season, slightly higher during peak weeks. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary bike and kayak use; full-service dive operation; 2 outdoor pools; small spa; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, hair dryer, stocked minifridge, no phone.

Hamanasi ★★ This well-run dive and adventure resort offers very comfortable rooms in an intimate setting. Diving is the main focus here, and the hotel has an excellent operation. But they have excellent inland tour options as well. The beachfront rooms are housed in a couple of ocean-facing two-story buildings, and I definitely recommend the second-floor rooms for the improved view and privacy of your balcony. There is also a series of “treehouses,” spacious individual bungalows set on stilts 3.7m (12 ft.) high in the midst of the hotel’s tiny coastal forest, just a few yards behind the main operation. While these don’t have an ocean view, they do offer a lush sense of tropical isolation. There are wonderful and artistic tile and woodworking touches in all rooms, and most have quite high ceilings. Hamanasi means “almond” in the local Garífuna language, and you’ll see plenty of the namesake hamans trees growing around the grounds.

Hopkins Village (P.O. Box 265, Dangriga). 877/552-3483 in the U.S., or 520-7073 in Belize. Fax 520-7090. www.hamanasi.com. 23 units. BZ$690–BZ$1,030 double. Rates include continental breakfast, taxes, and service charge. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bike rental; full-service dive operation; outdoor pool; room service; all rooms smoke-free; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, no phone.

Kanantik ★ This small, all-inclusive resort is one of the more luxurious options around. Except for the purchase of a bottle of wine or some top-shelf liquor, little falls outside the all-inclusive price you pay, and this includes all your tours, scuba diving, and dive equipment or fishing gear. The rooms are all individual, hexagonal, thatch-roof cabins, set either right in front of the ocean or slightly back in flowering gardens. Each is spacious and features sapodilla wood floors and driftwood beds. The rooms feature a walk-in closet, and the showers are built of smooth river stones. Meals are served in a large, high-pitched dining room. The owner is Italian, and there’s usually an excellent chef on hand serving a mix of local, Italian, and other international cuisine. It is possible to bypass the all-inclusive plan, which may make sense if you don’t plan on doing serious diving or fishing.

Southern Hwy., Mile 18.2, south of Hopkins Village (P.O. Box 150, Dangriga). 877/759-8834 in the U.S., or 520-8048. Fax 520-8089. www.kanantik.com. 25 units. BZ$804 per person double occupancy. Rates include all meals, local drinks and soft drinks, taxes, tips, and activities. MC, V. Kanantik is located 29km (18 miles) south of Dangriga, accessed by a graded gravel road that connects with the Southern Hwy. They also have their own private airstrip, and charter flights directly to the resort can be arranged. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary bike and kayak use; full-service dive operation; midsize outdoor pool w/unheated Jacuzzi; watersports equipment. In room: A/C, no phone.

Inexpensive

In addition to the place listed below, there are literally a score (or more) of simple guesthouses and small inns. Some are run by a local renting a spare room, while others are converted houses. Most inns charge around BZ$20 to BZ$30 per person. If you have the time, it might be worth your while to check out a couple before deciding where to stay.

Hopkins Inn Located right on the beach, near the center of the village, this little hotel offers clean and comfortable individual cabins at a very fair price. The cabins are all tiled, and feature wood-paneled, pitched roofs. Each has a small front porch. The two units closest to the water have the best views of the sea, but the others are larger and still have good views. A simple continental breakfast is served on your private veranda, and a host of restaurants are within easy walking distance. The owners are very friendly and knowledgeable, and can help arrange any number of tours and adventures.

Hopkins Village (P.O. Box 121, Dangriga). 523-7283. www.hopkinsinn.com. 4 units. BZ$100–BZ$200 double. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Bike rental. In room: Minifridge, no phone.

Jungle Jeanie’s by the Sea ★ The individual wooden cabins here are set on raised stilts on the sand. Most have direct views of the ocean, although one large unit with a loft is set back slightly among some trees. All have a private balcony in front, as well as a small refrigerator, microwave oven, and coffeemaker. However, aside from these amenities, the furnishings and decor are quite Spartan. Still, if you’re looking for a comfortable cabin on the sand, just steps from the sea, this might be all you need. Some of the cabins are painted in bright primary colors, while others are simply varnished over natural wood. You’ll find the hotel right on the beach, at the southern end of town.

Hopkins Village. 523-7047. www.junglebythesea.com. 8 units. BZ$110–BZ$240 double. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; kayak, windsurfer, and Hobie Cat rentals. In room: Minifridge, no phone.

Tipple Tree Beya This is an excellent option for budget travelers. With just two rooms in a two-story oceanfront home and one private cabin, this place has a laid-back vibe. Located at the far southern end of the village, literally where the pavement ends, Tipple Tree Beya combines the isolated feel of the more expensive beach resorts here with the convenience and proximity of the in-town options. Right in front of the hotel is an excellent stretch of beachfront. There are hammocks spread on a broad shared veranda, and rustic chairs set out on the sand. The cabin has a small kitchen area, equipped with microwave oven, refrigerator, coffeemaker, and some basic utensils.

Hopkins Village (P.O. Box 206, Dangriga). /fax 520-7006. www.tippletree.net. 5 units (4 with private bathroom). BZ$60 double with shared bathroom; BZ$80–BZ$150 double with private bathroom. MC, V. Amenities: Bike and kayak rental. In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

Even if you’re staying at one of the large resorts around here, it’s worth heading into town to try a meal at one of the simple, locally run restaurants on the main street. Of these, both Iris’s Restaurant ( 523-7019) and Innies Restaurant ( 523-7026) are perennial favorites. Both serve excellent fresh fish and seafood, and will usually have some hudut and other Garífuna dishes on hand. Both are very basic, inexpensive, and somewhat funky in decor and vibe. A similar option, which I prefer for its seafront location, is Laruna Hati ( 661-5753), which is located toward the north end of the village.

For excellent grilled fish and seafood, international fare, and tasty bar food, head to the Barracuda Bar & Grill ★ ( 523-7259) at the Beaches and Dreams hotel, at the south end of the village. And for a relaxed, European-style cafe, try Thongs ★ ( 662-0110), right on the main road, near the center of the village.

Chef Rob’s ★★★ FUSION The profile of an old red car sliced in half serves as a billboard for this little place. After working in the trenches for years as executive chef for some of the better resorts and hotels around Belize, Dutch-born chef Rob has opened his own place. Grab one of the heavy wooden tables on the open-air wood deck under dim, atmospheric lighting with flowing cotton drapes billowing in the breeze. The eclectic menu changes daily but always contains a mix of fresh seafood and quality meats prepared with fresh local ingredients and creative sauces. You might find lamb served with a balsamic vinegar and coconut milk reduction, or the daily catch expertly grilled and topped with a homemade papaya ketchup. Everything is wonderfully prepared by Rob in his small show kitchen. The four-course dinner is a great deal at BZ$55. During high season, lunches are sometimes served.

Hopkins Village. 670-0445. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$30–BZ$40. MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–9pm.

Driftwood Beach Bar & Pizza Shack ★ PIZZA/SEAFOOD This place is what a laid-back beach bar and restaurant should be—good food, great prices, cold beer, and a friendly atmosphere. And everything’s just steps from the sea. There’s a small interior dining room, but you’ll want to grab one of the outdoor tables under a thatch-roof shade structure. If you’re feeling athletic, there’s a beach volleyball court. If you’re not feeling athletic, there’s a hammock or two on hand. In addition to thin-crust pizzas, there’s usually some seafood and a nightly pasta special.

On the beach, north end of Hopkins Village. 667-4872. Reservations accepted. Main courses BZ$6–BZ$25. MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–10pm.

King Kassava BELIZEAN/GARIFUNA Located right at the crossroads entering Hopkins Village, this place is the town’s hub on many levels. Locals stop in for a cool one or chat around the outdoor tables under steeply pitched thatch roofs. The food here is fresh and tasty, particularly the seafood. Try the Garífuna-style shrimp, in a slightly spicy red sauce over white rice. Alternatively, you can get some barbecued lobster in season, or whatever fish has just come in off the boats. There’s a pool table in a separate room in back, and after about 9pm, the music can get turned up pretty loud.

Hopkins Village. 608-6188. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$12–BZ$30. No credit cards. Daily 7am–2pm and 5–11pm.

Hopkins Village After Dark

Aside from the various resort hotels, there is very little in the way of nightlife here—unless you can line up a night dive. Most of the resorts, however, hire local bands and dance troupes to entertain their guests. It’s worth combining a dinner at one of these places with the nightly show. Aside from the bar at the King Kassava (see above), the liveliest bar on Hopkins Village’s main road is The Watering Hole ( 614-8686), which also has a pool table. On full-moon nights, the folks at Driftwood Beach Bar & Pizza Shack (see above) host blow-out rave parties, with a live DJ and big bonfire.

Placencia ★★

241km (150 miles) S of Belize City; 161km (100 miles) SE of Belmopan; 89km (55 miles) NE of Punta Gorda

Placencia

Placencia is still Belize’s foremost and fastest-growing beach destination. Located at the southern tip of a long, narrow peninsula that is separated from the mainland by a similarly narrow lagoon, Placencia boasts nearly 26km (16 miles) of white sand fronting a calm turquoise sea and backed by palm trees. Placencia attracts everyone from hippy backpackers and avid naturalists to hard-core divers and upscale snowbirds. The whole peninsula is in the midst of an ongoing major boom, and development currently stretches from the peninsula’s southern tip all the way up to Maya Beach on the northern end of the peninsula.

Placencia itself is a tiny Creole village of colorful clapboard houses mostly built on stilts. Once you settle into the slow pace and relaxed atmosphere, it’s hard to move on. Placencia is the definition of laid-back. For years, the village’s principal thoroughfare was a thin concrete sidewalk. Once listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the narrowest street in the world, the sidewalk still runs through the heart of the village parallel to the sea. However, the ongoing construction and development boom have made the main road through town (called “the Back Road”) actually the town’s busiest thoroughfare most days.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane There are numerous flights into and out of Placencia’s little airport (PLJ). Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 523-3475 in Placencia; www.mayaairways.com) has 11 flights daily between the Goldson International Airport in Belize City and Placencia. The first flight leaves at 8:10am and the last flight is at 5pm. Flight time is 35 minutes, with a brief stop in Dangriga; the fare is BZ$189 each way. They also have seven daily flights between Belize City’s Municipal Airport and Placencia at 8 and 10am, noon, and 2:30 and 4:30pm. The fare is BZ$159 each way. These flights take 50 minutes because they stop en route to pick up and let off passengers at the international airport and in Dangriga. Maya Island Air flights from Placencia to Belize City depart throughout the day, with the first flight at 7:25am and the last flight at 4:50pm. Most of these flights stop first in Dangriga, and then at the international airport, before continuing on to Municipal Airport.

Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, 226-2012 in Belize City, or 523-3410 in Placencia; www.tropicair.com) has 10 flights daily between Goldson International Airport and Placencia, with the first flight leaving at 8:15am and the last flight at 5pm. The fare is BZ$189 each way. They also have five daily flights between Municipal Airport and Placencia, leaving at 8:30 and 10:30am, and at 12:30, 2:30, and 4:50pm. The fare is BZ$159 each way. Tropic Air flights depart Placencia for Belize City’s airports daily beginning at 7:25am, with the last flight of the day at 4:25pm.

Flights to and from Punta Gorda on Maya Island Air and Tropic Air stop in Placencia to pick up and drop off passengers. On both airlines, flights are sometimes added during the high season or suspended during the low season, so check in advance. Flight time runs between 25 and 50 minutes, depending on whether there is an intermediate stop or two.

A large new airport located on the northern end of the peninsula is slated to open sometime in early 2011. Big enough to accept commercial jets and charter traffic, it’s still unclear whether that traffic will arrive, and whether the local commuter airlines will shift their operations to this facility.

By Car From Belize City, head west on Cemetery Road, which becomes the Western Highway. Take this all the way to Belmopan, where you will connect with the Hummingbird Highway heading south. Ten kilometers (6 1/4 miles) before Dangriga, the Hummingbird Highway connects with the Southern Highway. Take the Southern Highway toward Placencia and Punta Gorda. After 37km (23 miles) on the Southern Highway, turn left onto the road to Riversdale and Placencia. From this turnoff, it’s another 32km (20 miles) to Placencia. The drive from Belize City should take around 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

By Bus There is frequent bus service between all major cities in Belize and Dangriga. for more information. Direct buses leave Dangriga for Placencia daily at 10:30 and 11:30am, and at 4 and 5:15pm. The fare is BZ$10. Buses leave Placencia for Dangriga, with onward connection to Belmopan, San Ignacio, and Belize City, daily at 11am and 2 and 4:40pm. If you’re heading south, you’ll want to get off the bus as soon as it hits the Southern Highway and flag down the next southbound bus.

However, many independent and bus travelers also reach Placencia via Independence Village and Mango Creek, using the Hokie Pokie ferry ( 523-2376). This 15-minute boat ride used to cut a lot of bumpy, dusty miles off the road trip; however, now that the road is paved, this is no longer necessary. Still, if you’re heading south, this is the best way to go. The ferry fare is BZ$12. All north- and southbound bus traffic along the Southern Highway stops in Independence Village, near the ferry dock. Ferries between Placencia and Independence Village leave regularly throughout the day, with at least six trips in each direction. for information on buses making the run between Belize City and the southern reaches of Belize.

Getting Around

Placencia Village itself is tiny, and you can walk the entire length of the sidewalk, which covers most of the village, in about 10 to 15 minutes. If you need a taxi, call S & M Taxi ( 602-4768) or Tuff Gong Taxi ( 523-3323). Fares within the village run BZ$6 for one person, and BZ$3 per person for two or more people. A trip from the airstrip to the village costs BZ$12 for one person, and BZ$6 per person for two or more people.

If you want to rent a car or golf cart while in Placencia, Barefoot Rentals ( 523-3438 or 629-9602; www.barefootrentals.net) is the best option, charging around BZ$120 per day for a golf cart, and between BZ$150 and BZ$180 per day for an SUV.

If you want to explore more, a scooter is a good way to get around. Several hotels and operators in the area rent scooters. Rates run around BZ$60 to BZ$80 for a half-day and BZ$100 to BZ$120 for a full day.

If you want a little more exercise, a bicycle is a decent option. The terrain is flat, although it can get hot on the main road, and there aren’t really any trails or off-road options. Many hotels have bikes either free for guests or for rent. Several shops around town also rent out bicycles. A relatively modern bike in good shape should cost between BZ$20 and BZ$30 per day.

Orientation

For most of the peninsula there is only one road. As the road reaches the end of the peninsula and the village of Placencia, it basically dead-ends at the Shell station and some boat docks. Just before this, a dirt spur turns right just beyond the soccer field and heads for a few hundred yards toward the lagoon. Once you’ve arrived, your main thoroughfare will hopefully be the beach and the sidewalk, which run parallel to each other starting near the docks and heading north.

Hotels and resorts are spread all along the length of the Placencia peninsula. To make it easier to understand where a hotel or resort is, the peninsula is broken up into three broad sections: Maya Beach, Seine Bight, and Placencia Village. Maya Beach is the northernmost section of the peninsula, and the hotels and resorts here are quite spread out, with few other services or businesses. More or less anchoring the center of the peninsula is the tiny Garífuna village of Seine Bight. Just to the north and south of Seine Bight village are several other isolated resorts. Down at the southern end of the peninsula is Placencia Village itself.

The very helpful Placencia Information Center ( 523-4045; www.placencia.com) is located toward the end of the road in a tiny mini-mall just across from the soccer field.

Fast Facts For the local police, dial 911 or 503-3142; you can also reach the newly formed tourist police at 603-0374. If you need any medical attention, the Placencia Medical Center ( 523-3326) is located behind the school in the center of the village.

There’s a Scotiabank ( 523-3277) on the main road near the center of the village, as well as an Atlantic Bank ( 523-3431). Scotiabank has an ATM that accepts international cards. There’s a pharmacy attached to Wallen’s Market ( 523-3346) in the center of the village. The post office is located above the Fishermen’s Co-op, near the start of the sidewalk.

There are a couple of gas stations in Placencia. You’ll find the Shell station where the road hits the end of the peninsula in the heart of the village. There’s also a Texaco station at the Inn at Robert’s Grove Marina.

If you need to use the Internet, there’s a host of options. If you want Wi-Fi or some food or drink to go along with your surfing, I recommend the De Tatch ( 503-3385). The Placencia Office Supply ( 523-3205), which is on the main road and has high-speed connections, is another good option.

Fun On & Off the Beach

You just can’t help slowing down and relaxing in Placencia. Sit back, sip a seaweed shake, and forget your cares. Nobody ever seems to get up early (except maybe the fishermen), and most people spend their days camped in the sand reading books and eating seafood. The beach, although narrow in places, is arguably the best in Belize. You can walk for miles and see hardly a soul. Still, if you need more activity and adventure, there’s a host of options.

Watersports Excursions

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving There’s often decent snorkeling right off the beach, especially if you head north a mile or so. The water’s clear and you’ll see plenty of fish and bottom life in the sea grass and along the sand bottom.

One of the more popular snorkel excursions is to the nearby Laughing Bird Caye ( 523-3565; www.laughingbird.org). Located just a few miles offshore from Placencia, Laughing Bird Caye is a national park. It’s a tiny little island measuring roughly 11×107m (35×350 ft.). There’s good snorkeling and swimming offshore, and a beautiful little beach. Many tour operators take folks here and then serve a picnic lunch on the beach or head to nearby Little Water Caye.

However, if you’re serious about diving or snorkeling, you’ll want to get out to the barrier reef and its dozens of little offshore cayes. It’s between 16 and 40km (10–25 miles) out to the reef here, making it a relatively quick and easy boat ride. Diving here is as spectacular as at other more popular dive destinations in Belize, and you’ll often have far fewer fellow divers around.

Gentle Giants

From late March to early July—especially just before, during, and after the full moons—the waters offshore from Placencia are a world-renowned place to spot and dive with mammoth whale sharks (rhincodon typus), the largest fish in the sea. Whale sharks can reach lengths of up to 12m (40 ft.) and weigh in at more than 20 tons. It’s about a 30-minute boat ride to Gladden Spit, an offshore, deepwater site where tens of thousands of cubera snapper come to spawn right around the full moons. No dummies, the whale sharks come to feed on the nutrient-rich snapper spawn. And not only whale sharks. During these peak feeding periods, you are also likely to see dolphins, bull sharks, and sea turtles, as well as the massive schools of snapper. Note: Even during peak periods, whale shark sightings on these dives are far from guaranteed. If you sign up for one of these dives, you must be very prepared for the possibility that you’ll see little more than some snapper and jack.

Most of the larger resorts have their own dive operations, and these tend to be some of the better operations on the peninsula. There is also a handful of independent operators in the village servicing folks at the rest of the hotels. If you’re not staying at a hotel with a dedicated dive operation, check in with the folks at Avadon Divers ★★ ( 888/509-5617 in the U.S. and Canada, or 503-3377 in Belize; www.avadondiversbelize.com) or Seahorse Dive Shop ★ ( 523-3166; www.belizescuba.com).

A snorkeling trip should cost between BZ$60 and BZ$160, depending on the distance traveled and whether lunch is included. Rates for scuba diving run between BZ$120 and BZ$300 for a two-tank dive, also depending on the length of the journey to the dive site and whether gear and lunch are included. Equipment rental should cost from BZ$15 to BZ$30 for a snorkeler, and BZ$30 to BZ$60 for a scuba diver.

BYO

While most hotels and all of the dive shops in town have snorkeling and diving gear for rent, you might consider bringing your own. If nothing else, bring your own mask and snorkel. Fins are a lesser concern, as most operators should have fins to fit your feet. However, faces vary vastly, and a tight-fitting mask is essential to an enjoyable snorkel experience. If you plan on going out snorkeling or diving more than a few times, the investment will more than pay for itself.

Fishing Fishing around here is some of the best in Belize. There’s excellent bonefishing in flats in this area. Anglers can also go for tarpon, permit, and snook, or head offshore for bigger game, including grouper, yellowfin tuna, king mackerel, wahoo, mahimahi, and the occasional sail or marlin. Most of the hotels and resorts on the peninsula offer fishing packages and excursions. Well-equipped sport-fishing outings run between BZ$1,200 and BZ$3,000 per day, depending on the size of the boat, number of anglers, and distance traveled. However, you can hire a smaller open-air skiff perfectly suited for fly-casting for bonefish, permit, or tarpon for between BZ$400 and BZ$1,000 per day. The folks at Tarpon Caye Lodge ★ ( 523-3323; www.tarponcayelodge.com), who have a small fishing lodge on the remote Tarpon Caye, have some of the more experienced fishing guides in town, specializing in fishing for permit and tarpon. You can also try Trip ’N Travel ( 523-3614), another long-standing local operation with well-regarded guides.

Kayaking Several hotels and tour operators in town rent out sea kayaks. The waters just off the beach are usually calm and perfect for kayaking. However, the lagoon is probably a better choice, offering more interesting mangrove terrain and excellent bird-watching opportunities.

Rates for kayak rental run around BZ$10 to BZ$20 per hour, or BZ$60 to BZ$80 for a full day. A guided tour of the mangroves or a combined snorkeling and kayak tour offshore should cost between BZ$80 and BZ$150 per person.

If you’re looking for a guided tour, the best kayak operator in Placencia is Toadal Adventure ★ ( 523-3207; www.toadaladventure.com). These folks offer several different multiday kayaking trips, both out on the ocean and on inland rivers. Custom trips can also be designed.

Sailing The crystal-clear waters, calm seas, and isolated islands surrounding Placencia make this an excellent place to go out for a sail. Your options range from crewed yachts and bareboat charters for multiday adventures to day cruises and sunset sails.

The Moorings ★ ( 888/952-8420 in the U.S. and Canada, or 523-3351 in Belize; www.moorings.com) is a large-scale charter company with its Belizean operations based out of Placencia. Options include monohulls, catamarans, and trimarans of varying sizes. Given the shallow draft, increased interior space, and reduced drag, a multihull is your best bet. All of the boats are well-equipped and seaworthy. Rates for a weeklong charter run between BZ$4,000 and BZ$18,000, depending on the size of the boat and whether you charter it bareboat or with a crew.

A day cruise, including lunch, drinks, and snorkeling gear, should cost between BZ$160 and BZ$300 per person. Most hotels and tour operators around town can hook you up with a day sail or sunset cruise, or you can simply head to the docks or check in with the folks at Next Wave Sailing ( 661-3744).

Guided Day Trips

While the ocean and outlying cayes are the focus of most activities and tours in Placencia, there are a host of other options. The most popular of these include tours to Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary (see “Dangriga,” earlier in this chapter), the Mayan ruins of Lubaantun and Nim Li Punit (see “Punta Gorda & the Toledo District,” later in this chapter), and up the Monkey River. Day trips can run between BZ$100 and BZ$300 per person, depending on the distance traveled and the number of activities offered or sites visited. Almost every tour agency in town offers these trips, or ask at your hotel for a recommended guide or operator.

Monkey River ★ Perhaps the most popular “inland” trip offered out of Placencia is up the Monkey River, and most of it is actually on the water, anyway. Located about a half-hour boat ride down the coast and through the mangroves, the Monkey River area is rich in wildlife. If you’re lucky, you might spot a manatee on your way down. Once traveling up the Monkey River, you should keep your eyes peeled for crocodiles, green iguana, wild deer, howler monkeys, and the occasional boa constrictor. In addition, you’re likely to see scores of bird species. These tours can be done entirely in a motor launch or may allow you to kayak on the Monkey River portion; I recommend the latter. Most tours include lunch in the quaint little Creole fishing village of Monkey River itself, as well as a short hike through a forest trail. Monkey River trips cost between BZ$90 and BZ$120 per person.

Spas & Body Work

If you’re looking for a little pampering while in Placencia, there are several options. Most of the big resorts, such as Turtle Inn and The Inn at Robert’s Grove, have their own spas, which you may be able to book even if you’re not a guest there. Alternatively, there are a couple of day spas right in the village. The Secret Garden Day Spa ( 523-3420) is located behind Wallen’s Market near the center of the village, while Siripohn’s Thai Massage & Oriental Spa ( 620-8718) is located in the Placencia Village Square, next to the Tutti Frutti Ice Cream Parlor. An hour-long massage should cost you between BZ$140 and BZ$200.

If you want to have an acupuncture treatment or stretch out some, head to the Acupuncture Center ( 523-3172), which is also near Wallen’s Market. These folks offer traditional acupuncture, various massage and herbal treatments, and regular yoga classes.

Shopping

Simple souvenir shops are abundant in Placencia. Located right on the main road near the Scotia Bank, the Beach Bazaar ★ ( 523-4309) is the best of the bunch. They’ve got a selection of traditional souvenirs, as well as some higher-end ceramic, wood, and metal artworks.

If you’re looking for some finer art, stop in at Art ’N Soul ( 503-3088), which is on the sidewalk about 91m (300 ft.) north of the pier and features paintings and prints by local artists. While farther north, in Seine Bight, you should definitely stop in at Lola’s Art Gallery ★ ( 523-3342), which features the colorful acrylic paintings of owner Lola Delgado. These paintings come in a wide range of sizes and prices.

Tip: Be on the lookout for locally produced organic chocolate. Marketed under the brand name Goss (www.gosschocolate.com), these milk and dark-chocolate bars are sold at stores around town. If you don’t pick up any here, they are also on sale at the international airport.

Sidewalk Fair

Most days, the Placencia sidewalk is a lazy affair. However, on the second weekend of February, it comes alive with the annual Placencia Sidewalk Arts Festival. Local artists show their wares, and a host of restaurants set up outdoor booths. There are also games, events, and raffles. For more information, contact the Placencia Information Center ( 523-4045; www.placencia.com).

Where to Stay

There is a host of accommodations options in and around Placencia. In general, the town’s budget hotels and guesthouses are located in the village proper, either just off the sidewalk or around the soccer field. As you head north to the broader and more isolated beaches, prices tend to rise.

Very Expensive

Chabil Mar ★★ This upscale option features a collection of mostly two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo units in a series of two-story buildings with blue roofs spread around lushly planted grounds, toward the southern end of the Placencia peninsula. All units feature Mexican-clay tile floors and lively, tropical decor. Most have spacious private balconies or verandas, and all come with full kitchens featuring granite countertops. A long dock leads out to a large deck area covered with a thatch-roofed shade structure, and there are two midsize pools to choose from. Service is very attentive and accommodating.

Placencia Village, on the beach just north of the center of the village. 866/417-2377 in the U.S., or 523-3606 in Belize. Fax 523-3611. www.chabilmarvillas.com. 22 units. BZ$700–BZ$1,020 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary bike and kayak use; concierge; 2 outdoor pools; room service; all rooms smoke-free; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, minifridge.

The Placencia ★ This large resort and condo project dwarfs everything else on the Peninsula. The multilevel pool, with a swim-up bar and separate children’s section, is the largest in Belize. The rooms and apartments feature marble floors throughout, as well as high-def flatscreen TVs and contemporary decor. Most of the master bedrooms come with Jacuzzi tubs. A series of three-story buildings forms a rough horseshoe shape around and behind the aforementioned pool. Oceanfront rooms are at a premium. If you can’t land one of these, try for a second- or third-floor unit with a sea-facing balcony. The resort sits on an excellent long stretch of white-sand beach, with the requisite wooden dock jutting out into the sea, featuring a bar, some chaise longues, hammocks, and a swimming ladder on the end of it.

Maya Beach. 520-4110. Fax 520-4112. www.theplacencia.com. 92 units. BZ$410–BZ$500 double; BZ$540–BZ$630 2-bedroom villa. Rates higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; complimentary bikes and kayaks; concierge; full-service dive shop; large outdoor pool; room service; small spa; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Turtle Inn ★★★ This is Francis Ford Coppola’s fanciest resort in Central America. You get your choice of a one- or two-bedroom private villa here. All have plenty of space, including a large living room and a spacious bathroom that lets out onto a private interior rock garden, with its own open-air shower. Tons of beautiful woodwork and a heavy dose of Asian decor and furnishings dominate the rooms. All of the villas are set on the sand just steps from the beach, but not all have ocean views. The Coppola Pavilion is a two-bedroom unit set on the beach a little off the main resort, with its own pool and a kitchen, wine cellar, and steam bath/shower in each of the two bathrooms. There’s a small spa and a full-service dive operation across the street on the lagoon side of the peninsula.

Placencia Village, on the beach north of the center of the village. 800/746-3743 in the U.S., or 824-4912 central reservation number in Belize, or 523-3244 at the hotel. Fax 523-3245. www.turtleinn.com. 25 units. BZ$700–BZ$960 1-bedroom double; BZ$1,080–BZ$1,350 2-bedroom double; BZ$3,700 Coppola Pavilion. Rates include continental breakfast. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; complimentary bikes and kayaks; concierge; full-service dive shop; 2 outdoor pools; room service; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: Hair dryer, minibar.

Expensive

The Inn at Robert’s Grove ★★★ This boutique resort boasts two restaurants, three pools, an in-house spa, professional dive and fishing operations, and a tennis court. Rustic red-tile floors, Guatemalan textiles, and Mexican ceramic accents abound. All rooms come with a private balcony, hung with a hammock. Many of the suites come with fully equipped kitchenettes, and all have a large living room and a large balcony. There are six—count ’em—six Jacuzzis spread around the resort. The rooftop ones are particularly inviting for late-night stargazing and soaking. Guests enjoy unlimited free use of the hotel’s sea kayaks, windsurfers, Hobie Cat sailboats, tennis court, and bicycles, as well as free airport transfers. The hotel also owns and manages two small private islands, Ranagua Caye and Robert’s Caye. You can take a day trip to these tiny offshore cayes, or spend a night or two in a simple yet comfortable cabin.

Placencia, on the beach north of the airstrip. 800/565-9757 in the U.S., or 523-3565 in Belize. Fax 523-3567. www.robertsgrove.com. 52 units. BZ$378–BZ$418 double; BZ$520–BZ$920 suite. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; lounge; babysitting; concierge; full-service dive shop; exercise room; 3 outdoor pools; room service; small spa; lit outdoor tennis court; complimentary watersports equipment and bike use; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minifridge.

Laru Beya Resort ★★ This resort offers roomy, bright, and well-designed rooms and condo units on a great patch of Placencia’s pristine white beach. You have the choice of one-bedroom rooms, or one-, two-, and three-bedroom condo units. The better rooms are higher up, with great ocean views, and all but a few more budget options come with televisions. The penthouse suites come with their own rooftop Jacuzzis. All the furnishings and decor are top-notch. Kayaks, Hobie Cats, and bicycles are available free for guests, and there’s even a small miniature golf course, which is a hit with the kids.

Placencia, on the beach north of the airstrip. 800/890-8010 the U.S. and Canada, or 523-3476 in Belize. Fax 523-3483. www.larubeya.com. 24 units. BZ$240–BZ$500 double; BZ$700 2-bedroom condo; BZ$800 3-bedroom. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary bikes; outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms; complimentary windsurfers and Hobie Cats. In room: A/C, hair dryer, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

Singing Sands Inn ★ This place has the most lush gardens and grounds in the area. The six individual thatch-roofed wooden cabins are set in a row perpendicular to the beach, with cabin nos. 1 and 2 closest to the ocean. You’ll still get something of an ocean view from cabin nos. 3, 4, and 5, while no. 6 is set amid the flowers and foliage. Each has a small porch with a couple of chairs. In addition to the cabins, there are a couple of larger, fully equipped apartments with kitchenettes. There’s a midsize outdoor pool and a large open-air deck area facing the ocean, and there’s a long dock built out into the sea with a shaded palapa at the end of it. The restaurant here is quite good, with oceanfront open-air seating either under the stars or protected by a thatch roof.

Maya Beach. 888/201-6425 in the U.S. and Canada, or /fax 520-8022 in Belize. www.singingsands.com. 10 units. BZ$280–BZ$340 double. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bike and kayak rental; outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Moderate

In addition to the places mentioned below, The Maya Beach Hotel ( 520-8040; www.mayabeachhotel.com) offers five clean, cozy beachfront rooms and a cool pool, and is home to Maya Beach Hotel Bistro (see below), one of the best restaurants on the peninsula.

Blue Crab Resort There’s a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere at this small beachfront hotel north of Seine Bight village. The rooms are all simple and clean, and they’re housed in several separate wooden buildings set on stilts a few feet above the sand. The air-conditioned rooms are located in a fourplex building. I’d try to get one that faces the beach. The two older individual cabanas are actually closer to the water, but are a bit smaller and lack air-conditioning. Of these, cabana no. 1 is your best bet, as it’s closest to the sea and gets good cross-ventilation. The tiny restaurant here is locally famous for its cuisine, as the owner was born in Taiwan, and she serves an enticing mix of Asian, international, and local fare. The folks here make the excellent organic Goss chocolate you’ll see around Belize.

Seine Bight, on the beach north of the village. 523-3544. Fax 523-3543. www.bluecrabbeach.com. 6 units. BZ$180–BZ$200 double. Rates include airport transfers. Rates lower in the off season. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Ranguana Lodge The five individual cabins at this small family-run hotel are all clean and cozy. In the two older cabins, nearly everything is made of hardwood—walls, floors, ceilings, even the louvered windows. These rooms feature a full kitchenette. The three oceanfront cabins are right in front of the sea and have air-conditioning; however, they are a little smaller and have a little less character. All of the cabins are just steps from the ocean, and all come with a private balcony or porch area. All are painted a blinding pure white, with a different primary or Day-Glo color used for trim.

Placencia Village, on the beach in the center of the village. 523-3112. Fax 523-3451. www.ranguanabelize.com. 5 units. BZ$160–BZ$176 double. Rates include taxes. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, minifridge, no phone.

Inexpensive

If the places listed below are full, you can simply walk around the village and see what’s available, or head to either Julia & Lawrence’s Guesthouse ( 503-3478; www.juliasrooms.com) or Deb and Dave’s Last Resort ( 523-3207; debanddave@btl.net), both located just off the sidewalk toward the center of the village.

Lydia’s Guesthouse This is one of the longest-running and most popular budget options in Placencia, and it’s fitting that this classic two-story converted home survived Hurricane Iris. The rooms are simple and clean, although a few can be a bit cramped. The shared bathrooms and showers are kept immaculate, and guests have free use of the kitchen that takes up the ground floor of the amiable Lydia Villanueva’s private home next door. You’ll find a convivial hostel-like atmosphere—travelers from around the world make up the guest list. There’s even a good ocean view from the shared balcony on the second floor, a real steal in this price range. Lydia also rents various houses around the village for longer stays.

Placencia Village, toward the northern end of the sidewalk. 523-3117. Fax 523-2335. www.lydiasguesthouse.com. 8 units, all with shared bathroom. BZ$40–BZ$60 double. MC, V. In room: No phone.

Sea Spray Hotel Rooms and prices vary substantially in this perennial budget and backpacker favorite. The economy rooms are a bit cramped and dark. Most rooms are in a two-story building built perpendicular to the sea. The four deluxe rooms are in a separate two-story building fronting the sea, and these come with televisions and kitchenettes, as well as comfortable private oceanview balconies. There’s also a separate, fully equipped beachfront cabana, although I think the deluxe rooms are a better and more comfortable choice. The attached De’Tatch Seafood Beach Bar & Grill serves hearty local fare at very reasonable prices, and also has an Internet cafe. As at Lydia’s (above), there’s a convivial hostel-like atmosphere here.

Placencia Village, on the beach toward the middle of the sidewalk. 523-3148. Fax 523-3364. www.seasprayhotel.com. 21 units. BZ$50–BZ$130 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: Minifridge, no phone.

Tradewinds You can’t beat the setting of Tradewinds. Perched right on the ocean’s edge toward the southern end of the village, the individual cabins here are just a few feet from the water. All are roomy, though rather Spartan, and come with a very inviting porch hung with a hammock overlooking the waves, where we predict you’ll spend most of your time. The less expensive rooms here are set a bit farther back from the sea in a simple triplex building, although each comes with its own little veranda. Everything is painted in lively pastels, and there’s a friendly, family-like vibe to the whole operation.

Placencia Village, on the beach, south end of the village. 523-3122. Fax 523-3201. www.placencia.com. 9 units. BZ$80–BZ$140 double. Rates slightly lower in the off season; higher during peak weeks. MC, V. In room: Minifridge, no phone.

Where to Dine

In addition to the places mentioned below, the restaurant at The Inn at Robert’s Grove is consistently top-notch. On the other end of the spectrum, Wendy’s ( 523-3335) is a popular, low-key spot serving excellent Belizean, Mexican, and international fare, located on the main road, at the southern end of town, almost by the pier.

Finally, as you wander around town in the heat of the day, be sure to stop in at Tutti Frutti Ice Cream Shop for some fresh, homemade ice cream or gelato. Tutti Frutti is on the main road in the Placencia Village Square shopping center, across from the soccer field. Daisy’s, located on the main road near the center of town, also serves fresh homemade ice cream, as well as breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

There are also several grocery stores in the village, in case you want to put together a picnic lunch.

Expensive

Mare ★★★ ITALIAN/SEAFOOD This is a great choice for a romantic dinner. The lighting at night is subdued, and tables are adorned with candles and flowers. The restaurant looks out over the hotel’s pool and onto the sea, and the setting is also wonderful during the day for lunch. The kitchen serves expertly prepared Italian cuisine and fresh seafood. I like to start things off with the insalata de pesce, which features fresh red snapper smoked on the premises. In addition to nightly specials, there are delicious thin-crust wood-oven pizzas, a selection of pastas, and several hearty main dishes. Whole, freshly caught fish are roasted in the wood oven, as are lobster tails in season. Most of the herbs and vegetables served are grown right here at the hotel’s organic garden. The wine list features a range of fine wines from Francis Ford Coppola’s own vineyard.

At Turtle Inn, on the beach north of the center of the village. 523-3244. www.turtleinn.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$40–BZ$92. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–3pm and 6:30–9pm.

Maya Beach Hotel Bistro ★★★ FUSION/SEAFOOD This is my favorite restaurant on the Placencia peninsula. There’s nothing fancy about the decor or ambience at this open-air beachfront restaurant, but the food and service are consistently top-notch. You can start things off with their trio or quartet of starters. Some of the top choices here are the fish cakes, coconut shrimp, and roasted pumpkin, coconut, and green-chili soup. Signature main dishes here include the cacao-dusted pork chop served on a risotto cake, and the nut-encrusted fresh catch served with a papaya-pineapple salsa. The coconut ribs and pork burger are also excellent.

At Maya Beach Hotel, on Maya Beach. 520-8040. www.mayabeachhotel.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$28–BZ$56. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 7am–9pm.

Moderate

In addition to the places listed below, Mango’s ( 600-2040; www.mangosbelize.com) is a lively beachside bar and restaurant up in Maya Beach. The bar food here runs from burgers and shrimp po’ boy sandwiches to burritos and quesadillas.

De’Tatch Seafood Beach Bar & Grill ★ BELIZEAN/SEAFOOD This funky and friendly open-air beachfront joint is one of the most popular spots in town. Traditional Belizean breakfasts here are hearty and inexpensive. You can get excellent seafood or shrimp burritos or tacos for lunch, and a selection of tasty meat, poultry, and seafood offerings for dinner. I like the seafood gumbo and Belikin-battered conch steak. The second-floor open-air deck can get hot in the daytime, but it is especially nice on starry nights.

Placencia Village, on the ocean just off the Sea Spray Hotel toward the center of the village. 503-3385. Reservations not accepted. Breakfast and lunch main courses BZ$6–BZ$16; dinner main courses BZ$12–BZ$36; lobster BZ$32–BZ$50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Habanero Mexican Café & Bar ★ MEXICAN Set on the lagoon side of the peninsula beside the marina at Robert’s Grove, this restaurant serves a mix of Tex-Mex and traditional Mexican fare. When the bugs aren’t biting, you’ll want to grab a table outdoors on the deck overlooking the water. This is also a great spot to catch the sunset. When the bugs are biting, you can seek refuge in the screened-in main dining room. My favorite dishes here are the garlic shrimp tacos and the spicy fish chimichanga. For those looking for a fiesta, you can order sangria and margaritas by the pitcher.

At the marina across from The Inn at Robert’s Grove, north of the airstrip. 523-3665. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$16–BZ$34. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10pm.

Rumfish y Vino ★★ SEAFOOD/FUSION This is the hippest and most sophisticated joint in Placencia. Offering a wide-ranging menu of fusion fare, bar food, and tapas, this is a great place to come for a long evening of wining and dining. Start off with the succulent conch fritters or some of their homemade fish pâté, and then move on to one of their nightly specials. Standout options include their gourmet mac ’n’ cheese and the Jamaican jerk pork chops. For lunch, I love the fish tacos. The wine list here is unique for Belize, featuring a broad selection of Italian and California wines that they import themselves, and there are also several local beers on tap.

Placencia Village Sq., on the main road, across from soccer field. 523-3293. www.rumfishyvino.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$14–BZ$27. MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

Trattoria Placencia PASTA There’s not much besides pasta and some simple salads and appetizers on the menu, but the folks here make a massive batch of fresh fettuccine daily, and they offer a long list of sauces to have with it. My favorites include the eggplant, capers, and fresh tomatoes, although the marinara sauce is also excellent and loaded with fresh shrimp, fish, conch, and lobster (in season). They also make their own pesto and have Belizean-made Italian sausage. Heavy wooden tables are spread widely on a covered porch and a screened-in dining room.

Placencia Village, on the oceanfront about midway along the sidewalk. 623-3394. Main courses BZ$28–BZ$40. V. Mon–Sat 5–9:30pm.

Get Your Bib Out

Lobster season opens each year on June 15, and Placencia pulls out all the stops to celebrate the culinary possibilities of this underwater arthropod. In addition to concerts, games, and sidewalk booths hawking all sorts of goods and treats, you’ll be able to sample everything from lobster fritters and lobster quiche to lobster bisque and beyond. If it can be made with lobster, you’ll probably find it here. The Placencia Lobster Festival is held in late June each year. For more information and exact dates, contact the Placencia Information Center ( 523-4045; www.placencia.com).

Inexpensive

Omar’s Diner BELIZEAN/MEXICAN There’s no assembly-line production, Styrofoam wrappings, or U.S.-style short-order cook here. Sometimes the speed of service doesn’t live up to diner norms. Still, this long-standing restaurant consistently serves hearty and tasty local fare at great prices. I recommend some fresh fish or shrimp in the Belizean creole, Cajun, or curry sauce. Omar isn’t afraid to spice up his cooking. There’s a homey, welcoming vibe to the whole operation, which is located streetside on the main road. If there’s no free table, you’ll probably be able to take a seat with another fellow traveler who has room.

Placencia Village, on the main road in the center of the village. 523-4094. Breakfast and lunch main courses BZ$5–BZ$14; dinner main courses BZ$10–BZ$24; lobster BZ$30–BZ$40. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Pickled Parrot ★ INTERNATIONAL This popular place serves a mix of quality bar food, pizzas, and a nightly range of main dishes and specials. The bulk of the menu is made up of pizzas, burgers, subs, and burritos. Dinner specials range from mango-rum glazed chicken to lobster curry. There’s a relaxed, informal atmosphere at this open-air sand-floored restaurant, and the bar can get rowdy at times, especially after folks have downed a few rounds of Parrot Piss, the bar’s signature mixed drink.

Placencia Village. 624-2651. www.pickledparrotbelize.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$30; pizzas BZ$34–BZ$44. V. Mon–Sat noon–9pm.

Purple Space Monkey Village INTERNATIONAL This place, well-located in the heart of the village, has risen from the ashes twice, once after Hurricane Iris and then again after a devastating fire. The heavy wrought-iron tables and chairs are a rainbow of primary colors. The food is well-prepared, abundant, and reasonably priced. I like to start the day with their fry jacks stuffed with eggs and cheese. The lunch menu tends toward burgers, sandwiches, wraps, and burritos, whereas their dinner menu gets more creative and extensive. Specialties here include fresh blackened fish, as well as fish, chicken, or shrimp served in a mango-teriyaki sauce. There’s free Wi-Fi throughout, as well as four complimentary computer workstations and a lending library.

Placencia Village, in front of the soccer field. 523-4094. Breakfast and lunch main courses BZ$10–BZ$16; dinner main courses BZ$26–BZ$46. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

The Secret Garden ★ INTERNATIONAL/COFFEE HOUSE The name of this quiet and cozy little spot is appropriate. Reached over a small yellow bridge, it has a few outdoor tables on a wood deck in a shady garden. A few more tables are located on a covered veranda, and a couple more are inside the small restaurant. Dinner choices change regularly, but might feature fresh grilled red snapper with a roasted red pepper sauce or some spicy shrimp “Diablo” served over linguine. There’s always fresh fish, conch, and lobster in season, and even some vegan options. In many ways, this place is similar to the Purple Space Monkey (above), including the free Wi-Fi access and lending library, but with a much mellower and more refined vibe.

Placencia Village, behind Wallen’s Market. 523-3420. Main courses breakfast BZ$8–BZ$14, dinner BZ$18–BZ$32. MC, V. Tues–Sat 7:30–11am and 5–9pm.

Placencia After Dark

Placencia is a quiet and remote beach destination, which is why my favorite late-night activity here is simply taking a stroll on the beach and stargazing. Still, there are a few bars in the village, and some of the larger resort hotels have lively nightlife scenes.

Two of the most popular spots in town are the Barefoot Beach Bar ★ ( 523-3515) and the Tipsy Tuna Sports Bar ( 523-3089), two neighboring establishments; I prefer the relaxed vibe and outdoor setting of the Barefoot Beach Bar, while the Tipsy Tuna is more of a late-night place, with pool tables and regular live music and karaoke.

For real late-night action, there’s the D’Eclipse Entertainment Club ( 523-3288), just north of the airstrip. This place is in a location where noise pollution wouldn’t bother existing hotels and houses. However, it’s yet to really catch on with any local or visiting crowd.

Punta Gorda & the Toledo District ★

330km (205 miles) S of Belize City; 161km (100 miles) S of Dangriga

Punta Gorda

Punta Gorda, or simply “P.G.,” is Belize’s southernmost town. This is the end of the road and feels a bit like the end of the world. P.G. is a quiet place with clean, paved streets, few cars, lush vegetation, and a very slow pace. Although it is right on the Caribbean, there is no beach to speak of, and the water just off town is rather uninviting. However, there are several wonderful offshore cayes within easy reach that have excellent beaches and serve as bases for equally excellent snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing. Inland from P.G., the surrounding scenery is as verdant as you’ll find anywhere in Belize (due to nearly 508cm/200 in. of rain a year). The surrounding Toledo District is home to various Mayan ruins and numerous villages that are still peopled by Kekchi and Mopan Maya Indians, who have been migrating here from Guatemala over the past century.

Settled by Garífunas in 1823, Punta Gorda was accessible only by boat for decades, and even though the Southern Highway is now paved and easily connects the town with points north, there’s still a sense of this being a distant frontier. As the administrative center for the Toledo District, Punta Gorda has an active market and bus services to the many surrounding Mayan and Garífuna villages, although connections are not very frequent. Most travelers do little more than pass through Punta Gorda on their way to or from Guatemala by way of the Puerto Barrios ferry. However, there is plenty to keep the adventurous traveler busy for several days, including fishing, scuba diving, rainforest hiking, and bird-watching.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane There are several daily flights into and out of Punta Gorda’s little airport (PND). Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 722-2856 in Punta Gorda; www.mayaairways.com) has four flights daily between Belize City and Punta Gorda. These flights leave from the Municipal Airport at 8 and 10am and 2:30 and 4:30pm. Most of these flights stop 15 minutes later at the Goldson International Airport to pick up passengers. The fare is BZ$204 each way from Municipal Airport, and BZ$240 each way from the international airport. When you’re ready to leave, Maya Island Air flights from Punta Gorda to Belize City depart at 6:45, 9:30, and 11:30am, and at 4pm. Most of these flights stop first in Placencia and Dangriga, and then at the international airport, before continuing on to Municipal Airport.

Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, 226-2012 in Belize City, or 722-2008 in Punta Gorda; www.tropicair.com) has five daily flights from Goldson International Airport to Punta Gorda at 8:15 and 10:20am, and at 12:20, 2:20, and 5pm. These flights stop 15 minutes later at the Municipal Airport to pick up passengers. The fare is BZ$204 each way from the Municipal Airport, and BZ$240 each way from the international airport. Tropic Air flights depart Punta Gorda for Belize City’s airports daily at 7, 9:40, and 11:35am, and at 1:35 and 4pm.

Flight times run between 55 minutes and 1 hour and 20 minutes, depending on the number of stops, since most flights to and from Punta Gorda on Maya Island Air and Tropic Air stop in Placencia and Dangriga to pick up and drop off passengers. On both airlines, flights are sometimes added during the high season or suspended during the low season, so check in advance.

By Car It is a long way to Punta Gorda. However, the Southern Highway, which starts just outside of Dangriga, is paved the entire 161km (100 miles) to Punta Gorda, where it ends. Coming from Belize City, head first to Belmopan and turn south on the Hummingbird Highway. Just before Dangriga, the Hummingbird Highway connects with the Southern Highway, which takes you all the way to Punta Gorda. Alternatively, you can take the Manatee Road turnoff just past the Belize Zoo, although the Manatee Road is a washboard dirt-and-gravel road for most of its length. See “By Car” in “Essentials” on for more information. It should take between 4 and 5 hours to drive between Belize City and Punta Gorda.

By Bus James Bus Line ( 207-3937 in Belize City, or 702-2049 in Punta Gorda) and National Transport ( 227-2255) have regular service throughout the day between Belize City and Punta Gorda. Buses leave at irregular intervals between 4:30am and 5pm, with at least 15 buses making the run throughout the day. In Belize City, National Transport buses leave from the main terminal on West Collet Canal, while James buses leave from nearby, near the Shell gas station on Cemetery Road. It’s worth getting an express bus, which should take only a little more than 5 hours. However, there are far more frequent nonexpress buses. On these, the trip takes 6 hours or more. In some cases, you may have to change buses in Belmopan or Dangriga. The one-way fare is BZ$24.

Departing buses begin running at 3am, with the last bus leaving at 4pm. All buses, even the express buses, stop in Belmopan, Dangriga, and Independence. However, the express buses are not supposed to stop along the route to pick up and drop off passengers at intermediary points.

By Boat Several boats run daily between Punta Gorda and Puerto Barrios, Guatemala. If there’s enough demand, the boats may stop in Livingston, Guatemala, as well. Expect to pay between BZ$30 and BZ$40 per person. The boats leave from the main pier in Punta Gorda. Requena’s Charter Service, 12 Front St. ( 722-2070; watertaxi@btl.net), is one of the more dependable operators. When the seas are calm, the crossing takes about 1 hour. Departures for Guatemala tend to leave between 8:30 and 9am, although there are often afternoon departures as well. The boats tend to return from Puerto Barrios between 2 and 4pm. You’ll have to pay the BZ$7.50 in exit taxes. Note: When coming and going, be sure to get your passport stamped at the immigration office just up from the dock.

Getting Around

Punta Gorda is a very small and compact town, and you should be able to get around primarily on foot. If you’re just too hot or tired, or you’re heading farther afield, have your hotel call a cab, or call Galvez’s Taxi Travel & Tour Service ( 722-2402) or the Roots & Herbs Taxi Service ( 722-2834).

Another option for getting around is to rent a bike. Ask at your hotel, and they should be able to help you find one for rent, or head to Sykes Bicycle Rental ( 626-6269) at 42 Prince St.

Orientation

Punta Gorda is a small coastal town, and the road into town runs right along the water before angling a bit inland. There’s a tiny triangular park at the center of the town. On one side is the Civic Center, or Town Hall. On one corner is a cute little clock tower, and the Belize Bank anchors another corner. Still, much of the town’s activity is water based, and many of the most important businesses, hotels, restaurants, and government offices are located on Front Street, which runs along the waterfront. The town’s main pier is off the center of Front Street. On the western edge of town, only 6 blocks from the water, is P.G.’s airstrip.

The Belize Tourist Industry Association ( 722-2531), in conjunction with local hotels and tourism operators, runs a well-staffed and helpful information center on Front just north of the main pier. This is a good place to come to find current transportation schedules, book a tour, or arrange a homestay.

Fast Facts For the local police, dial 911 or 722-2022, and for the fire department, call 722-2032. If you need medical attention, go to the Punta Gorda Hospital on Main Street, toward the southern end of town ( 722-2026). The post office ( 722-2087) is on Front Street across from the main pier. Belize Bank, 30 Main St. ( 722-2324), can handle most of your banking needs.

There’s a Texaco gas station ( 722-2926) out toward the northern end of Front Street and a Shell station out by “The Dump.” Finally, if your hotel can’t or won’t do it for you, take your dirty clothes to Punta Gorda Laundry Services, on Main Street across from the Belize Bank, which charges around BZ$15 per load.

What to See & Do

There’s very little in the way of attractions right in town. A stroll through Punta Gorda is the best way to enjoy the Caribbean atmosphere. If you get a little antsy at such a slow pace, there are plenty of cultural wonders and natural adventures within easy reach of Punta Gorda. There are a host of tour operators and guides in P.G. Your hotel and the information center listed in “Essentials,” above, can probably hook you up with a good guide or adventure operator. Alternatively, you can check in with the folks at Tide Tours ★ ( 722-2129; www.tidetours.org), a local ecotourism initiative that integrates environmentally and socially aware practices with their wide range of tour and adventure options.

Celebrating the Sweet

Each year in late May, P.G. pulls out all the stops for the Toledo Cacao Fest (www.toledochocolate.com). The festival, which runs over a weekend, includes a wide range of events and activities, including live concerts, fireworks, cacao farm tours, and of course plenty of opportunities to taste all sorts of dishes and creations made from or with cacao and chocolate. See the above website for exact dates.

Reaching These Attractions Most of the villages and attractions discussed below (such as Nim Li Punit) are located along the highway and have regular bus service every day. Buses to and from the other villages and attractions generally run at least once daily. Buses tend to leave for the villages from Punta Gorda between noon and 2pm, depending on which village or destination you are traveling to. These buses all leave from the market area in front of the Civic Center along Queen Street.

The time of departure from the villages to P.G. varies but is usually early in the morning, sometimes right around dawn. There’s often only one bus per day, but some villages have two or more daily buses. Ask in P.G., or in the actual village, as schedules are subject to change. Fares run around BZ$2 to BZ$8 per person each way.

Another alternative is to hire a taxi or go on an organized trip. Ask at your hotel or the information center, and you should be able to set up a trip. You can usually hire a car and driver/guide for BZ$180 to BZ$360 per day. This price will usually cover a group of four.

The truly adventurous might want to tour this area by mountain bike. You can reach most of the above sites and villages in an athletic couple of hours of riding. Leave early to avoid the oppressive midday heat, and expect slow going and lots of mud in the rainy season.

Mayan Ruins

None of Belize’s southern ruins is as spectacular or actively restored as the more famous sites in the northern and western parts of the country. Still, the ancient Maya did have substantial cities and trading posts all up and down the Belizean coast, and several impressive reminders can be found near Punta Gorda. Travelers interested in the ongoing Mayan tradition will find themselves in a region of numerous small Kekchi and Mopan Maya villages, many of which have taken tentative steps to enter the tourism industry with homestay programs or basic guesthouses.

Lubaantun The largest of the nearby Mayan ruins is Lubaantun. The name, which means “Place of the Fallen Stones” in Yucatec Maya, was given to the site in 1924 and it was descriptive of the state of the buildings at that time. This Late Classic Maya ruin is unusual in that the structures were built using a technique of cut-and-fitted limestone blocks rather than the usual rock-and-mortar construction technique used elsewhere by the Mayans. Set on a high ridge, the site features five plazas and two ball courts. The highest temple here rises just 15m (50 ft.) or so, and it’s still mostly in ruins, with trees growing out of the rubble. Although largely unexcavated, the ancient city’s center has been well cleared, and the surviving architecture and urban outline give a good sense of the former glory of this Mayan ceremonial center.

Lubaantun is perhaps most famous as the site where a crystal skull was allegedly discovered by a young Canadian woman in 1926. There’s much debate as to the origin and age of the skull, which some say was planted as a surprise present for Anna Mitchell-Hedges, who just happened to discover the carved skull on her 16th birthday while accompanying her father, who just happened to be leading the archaeological expedition. Others claim that the skull was a plant that had actually been purchased in London by Mitchell-Hedges. There are also claims that the crystal skull is the work of extraterrestrials, and that it has shown remarkable healing powers. The skull is currently kept in a vault in Canada.

Lubaantun is located about 32km (20 miles) northwest from Punta Gorda, about 11km (7 miles) from the well-marked turnoff on the highway near Big Falls, and 1.6km (1 mile) from the small Mayan village of San Pedro Columbia. Admission is BZ$10.

Nim Li Punit ★ Nim Li Punit, meaning “Big Hat” in Kekchi Mayan, features 26 steles, including the largest Maya carved stele in Belize, measuring almost 9m (30 ft.) tall. This stele bears the depiction of a local ruler wearing a large, broad diadem, or “big hat,” hence the name of the site. Discovered only in 1976, Nim Li Punit is a relatively small site, with four compact plazas and one very well-preserved ball court, with a stone marker in its center. One of the plazas served as an astronomical observation area, with a platform and stone markings indicating the point where the sun rises on the equinoxes. There are three Royal tombs that have been discovered and partially excavated, and you can peer down into two of them. However, overall, very little excavation or restoration has been undertaken. Nonetheless, the eight carved steles, and in particular, stele 14, make this a worthwhile stop. The best-preserved steles, including stele 14, are currently housed at the small museum and visitor center at the entrance to the site.

Nim Li Punit is set on a high hilltop, and on a clear day, you have a great view over the flat southern plains, all the way to the Caribbean Sea. It is believed that this Late Classic city had close ties to Copan, Honduras. If you can visit only one of the Mayan sites in southern Belize, I recommend Nim Li Punit over Lubaantun.

Nim Li Punit is located about 3.2km (2 miles) off the Southern Highway, near the village of Indian Creek, 40km (25 miles) north of Punta Gorda. A dirt road leads from the highway to a parking area near the visitor center. Admission is BZ$10.

Other minor ruins in the area include Uxbenka near Santa Cruz and Pusilha near Aguacate.

Places for a Dip

Mayan culture, past and present, may be the main attraction of Punta Gorda, but it also boasts plenty of natural attractions. In the forested hills south of San Antonio is one of the most beautiful swimming holes in all of Belize. Flowing out of a cave in a limestone mountain, the aptly named Blue Creek ★★ is a cool stream with striking deep turquoise water. Lush rainforest shades the creek, creating an idyllic place to spend an afternoon. You can cool off by swimming up into the mouth of the cave from which the stream flows. Blue Creek is also known locally as Ho Keb Ha, which means “the place where the water flows from.” During the dry season, you can actually hike about 8km (5 miles) through the cave to an aboveground exit. The village of Blue Creek is reached from a turnoff about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) east of San Antonio. From here it’s another 4km (2 1/2 miles) south on a rough dirt road. The creek runs right through the little village, but the best swimming holes and the cave source of the creek are about a 10- to 15-minute hike upstream.

Just off the Southern Highway, near the village of Big Falls, there is a natural hot spring that’s billed as the only such hot spring in Belize. You can have a refreshing swim in the river at the falls and then warm your muscles in the hot spring. This is a popular spot for locals on weekends.

There are also some attractive small waterfalls near the village of San Antonio, with inviting pools for a refreshing dip.

Watersports

The fishing, scuba diving, and snorkeling to be had off Punta Gorda are world-class. Kayaking on the ocean or up the Moho River is also excellent. Most tour operators and hotels in town can offer or line up a snorkel, dive, or fishing expedition to the very underexplored Sapodilla Cayes.

If you want to do an extended dive trip, or some volunteer work in marine conservation, check in with the folks at Reef Conservation International ★ ( 702-0229 or 629-4266; www.reefci.com). These folks have cabins and campsites, as well as research and dive facilities on the idyllic Frank’s Caye, which is part of the Sapodilla Marine Park.

For fishing, I recommend you check in with Dan Castellanos at Blue Belize (see below) or with Garbutt’s Fishing Services ( 722-0070). Both know the waters and fishing grounds around here, and can guide you in pursuit of tarpon, bonefish, and permit.

A Botanical Garden

The Toledo Botanical Arboretum ★ ( 722-2470) is a sustainable farm and botanical garden project that accepts day visitors. In addition to a broad variety of ornamental flowers and orchids, tropical palms and bromeliads, they grow more than 100 varieties of tropical fruit, and something is always ripe for a just-picked treat. The Toledo Botanical Arboretum is close to both the Kekchi Maya village of San Pedro Columbia and the Lubaantun ruins. A 2-hour guided tour of the facility costs around BZ$10. Visits and transportation should be arranged in advance.

Deer Dance

The Mopan Mayan village of San Antonio is the site of the Deer Dance, a 9-day traditional Mayan cultural celebration that takes place in late August and early September. Although this traditional cultural ceremony coincides with a Catholic religious holiday, the Feast of San Luis, its roots are traditional Maya.

Staying in a Mayan Village

Many people who make it as far as Punta Gorda are interested in learning more about Mayan village life. Though the ruins were abandoned centuries ago, Maya Indians still live in this region. The villages of the Toledo District are populated by two main groups of Maya Indians, the Kekchi and the Mopan, who have different languages and agricultural practices. The Mopan are upland farmers, while the Kekchi farm the lowlands. Both groups are thought to have migrated into southern Belize from Guatemala less than 100 years ago. Four decades of political violence and genocide in neighboring Guatemala have bolstered this migration.

San Antonio, the largest Mopan Maya village, is in a beautiful setting on top of a hill, with an old stone church in the center of the village. Steep streets wind through the village, dotted with both clapboard houses and traditional Mayan thatched huts. In addition to the Deer Dance, the nearby village of San Pedro is known for its annual festival on June 13 in honor of that village’s patron saint. This festival includes masked dances and other Mayan rites mixed with more traditional Catholic themes and celebrations. Beyond San Antonio and San Pedro, there is a host of even smaller and more remote traditional Mayan villages.

The Maya Village Homestay Network ( 722-2470; demdatsdoin@btl.net) provides accommodations directly with families in the Mayan villages. There’s a BZ$10 registration fee for any stay, and then accommodations cost BZ$20 per person per night, and meals are BZ$8 per person per meal. These fees are paid directly to your host family. Accommodations during a homestay can range from a hammock to a simple bed, and almost all families have some sort of bathroom or latrine. Currently, the villages involved in the homestay program include Aguacate, Na Luum Ca, and San José.

If you opt for this program, you can expect plenty of close contact with the local villagers. You will be eating what the locals eat, which in most cases means plenty of beans and tortillas, as well as the occasional chicken soup or meat dish. One of the highlights for many guests is participating in the cooking chores and learning the simple art of tortilla making.

Staying with a Garífuna Family

Those seeking a unique Caribbean cultural experience can also look into staying with a local Garífuna family. Just 18km (11 miles) south of Punta Gorda lies the small Garífuna village of Barranco. With a little more than 100 residents, Barranco is a quintessential quiet Garífuna village. However, this is the hometown of one of Belize’s most famous and beloved musicians, Andy Palacio, and the town’s little House of Culture is a great place for a quick visit to learn a little about the history, traditions, and culture of the Garífuna people of this area. Although the road to Barranco is usually passable during the dry season, it’s best to get there by boat. Ask around at the Punta Gorda pier whether there’s any regular ferry service. If not, you should be able to hire a ride for about BZ$80 to BZ$120 per boat.

Shopping

Wednesday and Saturday are market days around the small market square in front of the Civic Center and along the waterfront. This is a great time and place to find local and Guatemalan handicrafts, as well as fresh fruit and produce. If the outdoor market isn’t happening, you can find most of the same items at either the Southern Frontier Giftshop, 41 Front St. ( 722-2870), or the Fajina Craft Center ★, on Front Street next to the post office ( 722-2470), which is a cooperative of Mayan women from the area.

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Machaca Hill Lodge ★★★ With beautiful private cabins, stellar personalized service, and excellent cuisine, this is the most luxurious option in the Toledo area and one of the top hotels in the whole country. The 12 large individual bungalows are set on a high hillside of rich forest above the Río Grande. Each features a huge shower made of smooth river stone. The kidney-shaped pool has a broad and inviting stone deck area around it, and it’s also set on one of the highest points on the property, giving it excellent views all around. A tramway connects the lodge to the river below, where there’s a wonderful dock and bar area. This place was originally geared toward fishermen and is still an excellent base for fishing. Much of the food served here comes from the hotel’s expansive organic gardens.

P.O. Box 135, Punta Gorda. 722-0050. Fax 722-0051. www.machacahill.com. 12 units. BZ$620–BZ$880 double. Rates include breakfast, afternoon tea, on-site activities, and all taxes. Fishing and all-inclusive package rates are also available. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; concierge; outdoor pool; small luxurious spa. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Located on a bend in the Moho River, about a 20-minute drive outside P.G., the Cotton Tree Lodge ★ ( 866/480-4534 in the U.S. and Canada, or 670-0557 in Belize; www.cottontreelodge.com) offers almost a dozen large, individual wood and thatch bungalows.

The Lodge at Big Falls ★ This comfortable nature lodge caters to ecotourists and those looking to explore the nearby Mayan ruins and villages, and is set on the banks of the Río Grande, just outside the village of Big Falls. The six individual octagonal cabins all overlook the river and feature high thatched ceilings, large windows providing plenty of cross-ventilation, and cool rustic tile floors. Each comes with a large covered veranda equipped with a hammock for lazing away and watching the river flow. Named after birds, my favorite cabins are Trogon, Aracari, and Tiger Heron, the closest ones to the river. Although there’s electricity here, at night the light is provided by kerosene lanterns. There’s a good-size outdoor pool on the broad lawn outside the main lodge, and a host of tour options is available, including lazy inner tube floats on the river right here.

Near the village of Big Falls, 29km (18 miles) north of Punta Gorda (P.O. Box 103, Punta Gorda). 671-7172. www.thelodgeatbigfalls.com. 6 units. BZ$280–BZ$360 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; kayak and mountain bike rentals; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Moderate

In addition to the places listed below, Beya Suites ( 722-2956; www.beyasuites.com) is a small hotel with well-equipped, tidy rooms; an on-site restaurant; and a rooftop patio, located just across from the bay, just north of town.

Blue Belize ★ Rooms here are found in two neighboring houses connected by an elevated wooden walkway and stairs. All are cheery, with contemporary decor and lots of natural light. My favorites are those on the second floor of the newer building. These share a huge wraparound veranda and also come with flatscreen televisions. The owners here run an excellent tour operation, and Dan Castellanos, one of the owners, is considered one of the area’s top fishing guides.

139 Front St. (P.O. Box 37), Punta Gorda. 722-2678. www.bluebelize.com. 5 units. BZ$140–BZ$190 double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi. In room: Kitchenette, no phone.

Coral House Inn ★ This homey bed-and-breakfast is my favorite option right in P.G. The rooms are simple affairs, with firm beds and cable televisions. The rooms are all on the second floor, with a large shared balcony overlooking the sea. There’s a refreshing lap pool set at an angle off the main building, and an artsy open-air cement door leading to a lawn and gardens that run off to the sea. The gardens also provide innovative wastewater treatment. The owners are a cheerful and helpful couple, and they provide free bicycles for use during your stay. These folks also rent out a separate, private little cottage. The hotel borders the town cemetery, so consider yourself forewarned if that spooks you.

151 Main St. (P.O. Box 43), Punta Gorda. 722-2878. Fax 722-2682. www.coralhouseinn.net. 5 units. BZ$165–BZ$200 double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Bar; lounge; complimentary bike use. In room: A/C, TV, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Hickatee Cottages ★ This cozy retreat features a small collection of rooms set under tall trees among flowering gardens. It’s located just a mile or so from downtown, but you’ll feel a world apart nonetheless. All the rooms are quite spacious, with varnished wood floors, furniture made by Belizean Mennonites, a separate sitting area, and a front veranda strung with a hammock. The suite comes with a flatscreen television and DVD player. There’s no regular programming, but the hotel has a DVD lending library. There’s a small creek running through the property, and you can hike trails through thick forest and brush here. The bird-watching is excellent, and you’re very likely to see, or at least hear, howler monkeys. If the heat of the day gets to you, there’s a small but refreshing plunge pool. The owners, who met on the Green Tortoise bus, got off the bus to set up this little place.

Ex-Serviceman Rd. (P.O. Box 148), Punta Gorda. 662-4475. www.hickatee.com. 5 units. BZ$150–BZ$220 double. Rates include continental breakfast and round-trip transfer to P.G. airport or bus station. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small plunge pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Sirmoor Hill Farm ★ This converted plantation home is a unique lodging choice in the area. There are only two rooms for rent, and they share a bathroom. Each room features soaring ceilings, wood floors, and whitewashed wooden walls. The place is best suited to be taken over by a couple of friends or a small family. Located a few miles outside of town, you drive up to the house via a long driveway lined on either side with towering royal palm trees. The working farm still has cattle and horses, as well as teak and mahogany groves. There’s also the ruins of an old rum distillery on-site. Guests get the run of the old home, which includes large common living areas, a screened-in veranda, a massive kitchen, and a beautiful infinity pool.

New Road MLS3, Punta Gorda. 722-0052. www.sirmoorhillfarm.com. 2 units. BZ$220 1 room; BZ$380 both rooms. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Inexpensive

Punta Gorda has a host of budget lodgings. In addition to the place listed below, you could check out Charlton’s Inn, 9 Main St. ( 722-2197), or Tate’s Guesthouse, 34 José María Núñez St. ( 722-0147).

And, for an ecolodge experience at pretty budget prices, check out Sun Creek Lodge ( 604-2124; www.suncreeklodge.com), a delightful collection of individual cabins, at Mile 14 on the Southern Highway.

Nature’s Way Guest House Located 3 blocks south of the central park and across the street from the water, Nature’s Way is a longtime favorite of budget travelers. There’s a variety of room, bathroom, and bed configurations, from bunk beds to a mix of twins and matrimonials. Still, everything is quite basic and rustic. Even though most rooms do not have private bathrooms, everything is kept tidy, and the shared bathrooms are large and clean. Only breakfast is served here, though it is hearty and plentiful, and the hotel is close to downtown and other dining options. The guesthouse is operated by an American named William “Chet” Schmidt, who moved down here some 40 years ago to promote sustainable agricultural and tourism practices.

65 Front St., Punta Gorda. /fax 702-2119. 6 units (1 with private bathroom). BZ$30–BZ$60 double. No credit cards. In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

Dining options are far from extensive in Punta Gorda. In addition to the restaurants listed below, check out Grace’s Restaurant, at the corner of Main and King streets ( 702-2414), for good local fare.

Out a little bit north of town, just across from and facing the bay, Waluco’s Cool Spot ( 670-3672) is a good place for fish, pasta, or rotisserie chicken. The open-air restaurant has a great view and a friendly, casual vibe. And even a bit beyond Waluco’s, you’ll find the Mangrove Inn ★ ( 722-2270), which serves a limited nightly menu in an intimate setting with personalized service.

For a cool treat on a hot day, head to Marenco’s Ice Cream Parlour, 57 Main St. ( 722-2572).

Earth Runnins’ Café ★ BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL Owned and run by the very personable Giovanni Foster, this place serves a broad and creative menu ranging from local classics to Cajun-style blackened fish and Thai shrimp curry. The whole fish is excellent. The heavy wood tables and chairs, as well as the massive wood bar, were built by Giovanni himself. There’s a stage on one side of the room, and the bar here is one of the more lively in town. The hours listed below are not strict by any means, so it always pays to check in advance to see if they’ll be open.

13 Main Middle St. 702-2007. www.earthrunnins.com. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$18. No credit cards. Wed–Sun 7:30am–2pm and 5–11pm.

Emery’s BELIZEAN This is a good bet for simple, fresh, local cuisine. I prefer the tables in a large, open-air, thatch-roof structure off the small wooden building that has the kitchen, bar, and small screened-in dining area. This large dining area has half-walls of bamboo and a series of floor fans cooling things off. There’s a chalkboard menu with the standard fare and daily specials. Offerings range from stew chicken and pork to whole fried snapper and snook filets. Everything is well-prepared, and the prices are right.

North St. 722-2317. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$30. No credit cards. Daily 8am–10pm.

Gomier’s Foods BELIZEAN/VEGETARIAN This should definitely be the first stop for any vegetarian or health-food nut. While the menu at this place features plenty of traditional locally prepared food and dishes, this is the only place in P.G. to find stir-fried tofu and a wide range of vegetarian entrees. Most of the herbs and vegetables are organically grown by owner Gomier himself. Again, this is predominantly a one-man show, and the hours listed below are somewhat optimistic, so be sure to check first whether this place is open or have a backup plan if you go.

At the corner of Vernon and Front sts. 722-2990. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$20. No credit cards. Tues–Sat 8am–2pm and 6–9pm.

Marian’s Bayview ★ INDIAN/BELIZEAN For years, Marian made a name for herself selling authentic East Indian food out of a simple stall at the small market in downtown Punta Gorda. She’s got her own digs now, and you can sit at a table and enjoy your meal. Granted, the tables are rather rickety, the chairs are plastic, and the third-floor dining area has an unfinished feel to it, with bare cement on the floors and some of the walls. Still, the food is delicious. Every day, Marian makes a limited menu that usually includes a mix of Indian and Belizean fare, and a mix of seafood and meat options.

At the corner of Vernon and Front sts. 722-0129. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$18. AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 11am–2pm and 6–10pm; Thu 11am–2pm; Sun noon–2pm and 6–10pm.

The Snack Shack ★ INTERNATIONAL This simple, open-air spot is a great place for a cool drink on a hot day. It’s also a top choice for breakfast or a light lunch. Heavy wooden tables are spread around a wooden deck surrounded by heliconia and red ginger flowers, and large tree-trunk columns support the corrugated tin roof. In addition to standard breakfast fare, you can get a range of fresh-baked goodies. For lunch there are a selection of filling salads, as well as burgers, chicken sandwiches, tuna melts, and BLTs.

On Main St., between King and Queen sts. 702-0200. Main courses BZ$5–BZ$10. MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 7am–2:30pm.

Punta Gorda After Dark

Overall, Punta Gorda’s a pretty quiet town. The most dependable spot for any action is the PG Sports Bar ( 722-2329), which only very occasionally has sporting events on the tube. Instead, this is really an all-purpose nightspot with occasional live bands, DJs, and karaoke nights. It’s located on Main Street at the southern edge of the little central park. Another good spot to meet and mingle with locals is the Bukut Bar at Earth Runnins’ (see above), which also has live music every now and again. I personally like the view and breeze at the Reef Bar ( 702-0154) for a quiet place to get a drink and have a conversation. Finally, you can try heading out north of town to Waluco’s (see above), where there are occasionally live music jam sessions, a local Punta Rock band, or a Garífuna drumming outfit.