Chapter 9: Northern Belize

With few exceptions, Northern Belize is overlooked by most tourists who fly into the country and head quickly to the cayes, the Cayo District, the southern beaches, or the Mayan Mountains. Even those who enter by land from Mexico frequently make a beeline to Belize City and bypass this region. Still, northern Belize has its charms, not least of which is its undiscovered and undeveloped feel. It’s here that you’ll find some of the country’s larger biological reserves, including the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, the Shipstern Wildlife Reserve, and the Río Bravo Conservation Area. With more than 430 species of birds and 250 species of orchids, this region should be especially attractive to naturalists.

Northern Belize

The region was also an important and strategic part of the Mayan Empire, and ancient ruins abound. Most notably, it is here that you will find the Altun Ha and Lamanai ruins, two of the country’s most popular and important Mayan sites. Lesser sites such as Cuello, Cerros, Santa Rita, and Noh Mul are also possible stops for true aficionados. Finally, northern Belize is home to three unique and isolated lodges: Maruba Resort Jungle Spa, Chan Chich Lodge, and Lamanai Outpost Lodge, all of which are described in detail in this chapter.

For our purposes, “northern Belize” refers to the northern section of the Belize District, as well as the entire Orange Walk and Corozal districts. The land here is low and plain, with massive sugar cane, citrus, soybean, and pineapple plantations set amid large swaths of forests; swamps; lagoons; and slow, steamy jungle rivers. Belize’s Northern Highway runs from Belize City to the Mexican border, a little more than 161km (100 miles) away. The road is not in good shape, and the scenery tends to be flat and monotonous. There are few people and fewer population centers. There are only two cities of any note along the way, and both are actually designated as towns, Orange Walk Town and Corozal Town. Of these, only Corozal, with its seaside setting and proximity to the Mexican border and Shipstern Wildlife Reserve, is a destination with much appeal to travelers. Orange Walk, for its part, serves mainly as a gateway to the Lamanai ruins and the Río Bravo Conservation Area.

Much of this area was originally settled by immigrants fleeing southern Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula during the Caste Wars of the mid–19th century. This is undoubtedly the most Spanish region in Belize. However, it is also the region with the largest concentration of Mennonite communities. Members of this somewhat radical and oft-persecuted Christian order have thrived in this farming area. You can’t miss the Mennonites in their distinctive, heavy, home-sewn garb and horse-drawn carriages.

Along the Old Northern Highway

Altun Ha

The Old Northern Highway is in rough shape. The narrow, paved road is perennially in dire need of repair; it’s riddled with potholes and washed out in many sections. Still, it is the only route to one major attraction and one unique resort. Aside from these two places, there’s not much else along this highway, except for a few tiny communities and the occasional roadside restaurant or bar. To get here, take Freetown Road out of Belize City to connect with the Northern Highway. The turnoff to the Old Northern Highway is to the right just past Sand Hill; watch for signs for Altun Ha and Maruba Resort Jungle Spa.

Altun Ha ★

Altun Ha is a small, well-preserved Mayan ruin. Only a few of the most imposing temples, tombs, and pyramids have been uncovered and rebuilt; hundreds more lie under the jungle foliage. Still, there are two large central plazas surrounded by midsize pyramids and mounds, as well as the beginnings of the excavation of residential areas. While nowhere near as extensive as some other sites, Altun Ha offers admirable quality and detail of excavation and restoration. Sections of different structures have been left in various states of repair and restoration, which gives a good sense of the process involved. Moreover, while the climb to the top of the tallest pyramids here is rather easy by Mayan standards, the views are still wonderful. The site was named after the village in which it’s situated—Rockstone Pond, the literal Mayan translation meaning “stone water.” At the back of the site, behind Plaza B, is the namesake pond. Archaeologists theorize that the pond is an example of a pre-Columbian waterworks project and a demonstration of the ingenuity of Mayan engineering.

Despite its somewhat diminutive size, Altun Ha was a major trade and ceremonial center. In its prime, during the Classic Period, Altun Ha supported a population of about 10,000. Many jade, pearl, and obsidian artifacts have been discovered here, including the unique jade-head sculpture of Kinich Ahau (the Mayan sun god), the largest well-carved jade from the Mayan era. Today, it’s kept in a bank vault in Belmopan, out of public view, although you can see a replica at the Museum of Belize . Some of the pieces found here show a direct link to the great Mexican city of Teotihuacán.

The largest (though not the tallest) temple here is the Temple of the Masonry Altars, which fronts Plaza B. It has been well-restored, and the pathway to the top is well-maintained and even features handrails. However, if you’re fairly fit and not acrophobic, I recommend you climb the almost entirely unrestored Temple A-6, which is truly the tallest building here. A climb to the top of Temple A-6 affords an excellent panorama of the entire site. Be careful climbing down; the Mayans were a society run by priests and holy men, not lawyers. A more litigious society would have never permitted the construction of such steep and treacherous stairways.

The site is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission is BZ$10 for adults, free for children 11 and under. There is no public transportation to Altun Ha, so you’ll need to take a tour, a taxi, or your own wheels, or hitchhike. If you’re driving, Altun Ha is located about 48km (30 miles) north of Belize City on the Northern Highway. Once you’re on the Old Northern Highway, it’s 18km (11 miles) to the Altun Ha road. From the highway, it’s another bumpy 3.6km (2 1/4 miles) to the ruins.

Half-day tours to Altun Ha from Belize City cost between BZ$80 and BZ$160. Full-day tours can be combined with visits to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary (see “En Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary,” below) or the Community Baboon Sanctuary (see “What to See & Do” in chapter 6), and should run between BZ$150 and BZ$280. Many of the tours include lunch and an optional spa treatment at Maruba Resort Jungle Spa.

An Isolated Jungle Spa

Maruba Resort Jungle Spa ★★ Decadent, sensual, and exotic are words often used to describe this boutique resort, and for good reason. The whole place is an imaginative jungle fantasy where health, hedonism, and happiness are the primary goals. The accommodations are a collection of uniquely designed and decorated rooms and private villas, set in a patch of densely planted gardens and forest. Artistic touches abound and range from the many interesting architectural details to the eclectic mix of decorations and furnishings from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, the Middle East, and, of course, Belize. The best rooms here are the private suites. The standard rooms are certainly up to snuff, but I think it’s worth the splurge for one of the suites.

There are two outdoor pools here, as well as a separate hot mineral pool. The spa facilities and services are wonderfully done. The Mood Mud Massage is their signature offering, and I highly recommend it. The food at the restaurant here is excellent, featuring a creative mix of international and fusion cuisine. This place is popular with day-trippers from the cayes and Belize City, as well as cruise-ship passengers. Luckily, one of the pools is reserved for hotel guests, and once the day tours clear out, you’ll have the place to yourself. In addition to the spa treatments, a host of tours, activities, and adventures is offered here. If you’re in the mood for some serious imbibing, don’t miss a taste of their home-brewed Viper Rum and Scorpion Stinger.

Old Northern Hwy., Mile Marker 40 1/2, Maskall Village. 800/627-8227 in the U.S., or 225-5555 in Belize. Fax 225-5506. www.maruba-belize.com. 18 units. BZ$310 double; BZ$378 junior suite; BZ$630 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; 2 outdoor pools; spa; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

En Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary ★

53km (33 miles) NW of Belize City

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary is a swampy lowland that is home to more than 260 resident species of birds and serves as a resting spot for scores of migratory species. During a visit here, you are sure to spot any number of interesting water birds, including kites, hawks, ducks, grebes, pelicans, ospreys, egrets, and herons. However, the preserve was established primarily to protect Belize’s main nesting site of the endangered jabiru stork, the largest bird in the Western Hemisphere. The jabirus arrive every November and pass the winter in these warm lowland climes. The jabiru is an impressive bird, standing nearly 1.5m (5 ft.) tall, with a wingspan that can reach up to 3.7m (12 ft.). Crooked Tree has rapidly become known as an excellent place to spot other endangered wildlife as well. Crocodiles, iguanas, coati-mundi, and howler monkeys are all frequently sighted. There are six major lagoons here connected by a series of creeks, rivers, and wetlands.

The small Creole village of Crooked Tree is the gateway to this wildlife sanctuary. The village is reputed to be some 300 years old, and one of the oldest ongoing settlements in Belize. If you poke around, in addition to the sanctuary’s visitor center, you’ll find the church, the school, the soccer field, a few general stores, and a couple of simple guest houses.

The best way to explore the preserve is by dugout canoe. Ask in town or at the visitor center and administrative building for a local who will paddle you around in a dugout for a few hours. The going rate is around BZ$20 to BZ$40 per person for a 2- to 3-hour paddle tour of the lagoons. Or, if you’re in the mood for a little exercise, Bird’s Eye View Lodge (see below) offers canoe rental for BZ$10 per person per hour. If you’re looking for a good local bird guide, contact Sam Tillet ( 220-7026; www.crookedtreebelize.com), who also runs a simple guest house. All visitors must first register at the visitor center and pay the BZ$8 admission fee. The Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary was set up and is still administered by the Belize Audubon Society ( 223-5004; www.belizeaudubon.org).

Going Nuts

Crooked Tree is also home to a thriving cashew industry. Each year during the first weekend of May, Crooked Tree village hosts its annual Cashew Festival, where you can sample raw and roasted nuts and taste some cashew wine, cashew jelly, and a whole plethora of dishes cooked around or including the local nut.

If you’d like to spend the night, accommodations can be arranged with a local family for around BZ$30 to BZ$80 double occupancy. Meals should run you an additional BZ$30 to BZ$50 per person per day. Or, if you want to stay in a comfortable lodge right on the edge of a lagoon, check out the Bird’s Eye View Lodge ★ ( 225-7027; www.birdseyeviewlodge.com), where a double costs between BZ$160 and BZ$240.

Crooked Tree is located 53km (33 miles) northwest of Belize City. If you are driving, head up the Northern Highway and watch for the turnoff to Crooked Tree. From the turnoff, it’s another 4.8km (3 miles) on a well-graded dirt road.

Jex & Sons ( 225-7017) direct buses leave for Crooked Tree Village Monday through Saturday from a bus terminal on Regent Street West in Belize City at 10:50am; Monday through Friday from a terminal at Pound Yard Bridge at 5:15pm; and from Crooked Tree for Belize City at 6:30 and 7am. The fare is BZ$7 each way. Alternatively, you can take any bus heading to Orange Walk Town, Corozal, or the northern border and ask to be dropped off at the entrance to Crooked Tree. From here you’ll have to walk or hitchhike, or get really lucky and find a cab patrolling around. If you’re staying at a hotel in the village, they will usually pick you up.

Half-day tours to Crooked Tree from Belize City or the northern cayes cost between BZ$80 and BZ$160. A full-day trip combining Crooked Tree and Altun Ha, including transportation, guide, and lunch, should cost between BZ$160 and BZ$300.

Orange Walk Town

89km (55 miles) N of Belize City; 50km (31 miles) S of Corozal

Orange Walk Town

Between Belize City and Corozal Town, the only settlement of any size is Orange Walk Town, a bustling agricultural and business community with a population of some 18,000. This is the heart of Belize’s sugar cane industry, and some locals still call the town “Sugar City.” Originally called Holpatin by the ancient Maya, the town’s riverside location has ensured its status as a trade center for more than 2,000 years. The town’s current name comes from the many citrus groves once planted alongside the New River here. Orange Walk Town’s residents are a very heterogeneous mix of mestizos, Mayans, Chinese, and Black Creoles. There’s not too much of interest to travelers in the town, but this is the gateway to several of the surrounding attractions of note, including the Lamanai ruins and the Río Bravo Conservation Area to the west.

What’s in a Name?

“Orange walk” is the Creole term for “orange orchard” or “orange grove,” just as “sugar walk” would be the Creole version of “sugar plantation.”

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane Although there’s a small airstrip here, no regularly scheduled commuter traffic arrives in Orange Walk Town. The closest active airports are those in Corozal Town (see “Corozal Town,” later in this chapter) and the Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport outside of Belize City (see chapter 6).

By Car Orange Walk is on the Northern Highway about 89km (55 miles) from Belize City. Take Freetown Road out of Belize City to connect with the Northern Highway. The highway is also known in this area as the Belize-Corozal Road, and Queen Victoria Avenue right in the heart of town. After passing through the small downtown section of Orange Walk Town, the highway continues north to Corozal.

There’s a tollbooth where the Northern Highway crosses the New River a few miles south of Orange Walk Town. The fee is BZ75¢ per car.

By Bus Buses ( 227-2255 in Belize City, or 302-2858 in Orange Walk Town) leave throughout the day, roughly every half-hour between 5:30am and 7:30pm. Morning buses leave from the main bus terminal on West Collet Canal Street. Catch any bus going to Corozal Town or Chetumal. The Orange Walk Town bus station is right on the Northern Highway in the center of town near Town Hall. You can pick up a return bus here to Belize City, or continue onward to Corozal. Buses can be either direct or local, and they vary in age and comfort. You’ll pay more for a comfortable direct or express bus. The fare is BZ$5 to BZ$8 between Belize City and Orange Walk Town, and BZ$6 to BZ$10 between Orange Walk Town and Corozal Town.

Getting Around

Orange Walk is pretty compact, and the city center is just a few blocks wide in either direction. Still, a few taxis can be had around town. If you can’t flag one down, call 322-2050, or head to the little park across from Town Hall.

Orientation

The Northern Highway runs right through the heart of Orange Walk Town. However, there is also a bypass that skirts the city proper, for those in a rush to get to Corozal. Several gas stations are located on the outskirts of either end of town. As you’re traveling north, the New River and “downtown” district will be to your right, while the Town Hall and Sports Ground are on the highway, on your left.

Fast Facts If you need to call the police, dial 911 or 322-2022; for the fire department, dial 322-2090; and for medical emergencies, call the Northern Regional Hospital at 322-2072.

There’s a Belize Bank ( 322-2019) at the corner of Main and Park streets, and a Scotia Bank ( 322-0866) down the block on the corner of Park Street and Lover’s Lane. The post office ( 322-2345) is located on the north end of Main Street.

mennonites in Belize

Mennonites are a Protestant branch of the 16th-century Anabaptist movement, which also gave birth to the Amish and Hutterites. Believing that the New Testament is the sole word of God and that children should not be baptized, the Mennonites also believe that true Christians should not hold political or public office or serve in the military. Modern Mennonites are somewhat split as to the use of electricity and the internal combustion engine.

Mennonites get their name from Menno Simons, a Dutch Catholic priest who converted to Anabaptism and went on to lead the budding movement. From the start, the Anabaptists were severely persecuted and repeatedly forced into exile. Mennonites first migrated to Belize from Mexico in 1958. While the initial wave of immigrants was small, the Mennonites quickly settled in, buying large tracts of land and establishing very successful dairy farming and agricultural enterprises. The early Mennonite settlers were successful in negotiating certain strategic concessions and guarantees from the government, including that of religious freedom and exemption from military service and some forms of taxation.

While there are Mennonites throughout Belize, the Orange Walk District and northern Belize have one of the highest concentrations in the country, with large communities in Shipyard, Blue Creek Village, Little Belize, and Spanish Lookout. Most Mennonites, even in Belize, speak an archaic form of German. They are easily recognized, with their fair skin and blond hair, especially when they’re traveling in their low-riding, horse-drawn carriages. The women often wear puffy cloth bonnets and simple cotton dresses, while the men sport broad-rimmed straw hats, dark jeans, and distinctive full beards with no moustache.

Seeing the Sights

If you’re staying in Orange Walk Town, you might want to visit the Banquitas House of Culture, at Main Street and Banquitas Plaza ( 322-0517), which is set just off the river on some expansive and manicured grounds. The House of Culture itself features a small collection of artifacts and historic displays from the Mayan, logging, and colonial eras. There’s also a small amphitheater here that very occasionally may have live music, theater, or dance. In the center of town you’ll find La Inmaculada Church ( 322-2043), one of the few colonial Spanish churches in the country.

You might also want to stop at Godoy’s Orchid Garden, 4 Trial Farm Rd. ( 322-2969). Commercial growers and exporters, the Godoy family also offers visitors a stunning and informative tour of their extensive collection.

Two of the most popular tours out of Orange Walk Town are to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary (see “En Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary,” earlier in this chapter) and the Lamanai ruins (see “The Submerged Crocodile: Lamanai,” below).

If you’re looking for some nearby outdoor adventure and a refreshing dip, head to Honey Camp Lagoon, which features an unlikely sandy beach ringed by palm trees next to a spring-fed freshwater swimming hole. Honey Camp Lagoon is located about a 20-minute drive south from Orange Walk Town, via the Old Northern Highway.

If your hotel can’t hook you up and you want a local guide for any of the aforementioned tours or trips to any of the nearby ruins or up to Lamanai (see below), call J. Avila & Sons River Tours, 42 Riverside St. ( 322-3068), or Jungle River Tours ★, 20 Lovers Lane ( 302-2293), which is run by the very personable and knowledgeable Wilfrido Novelo.

Fun Fact

The original Mayan name for the New River, Dzuilhuinicob, translates roughly as “River of Strange People.”

A Couple of Minor Mayan Sites Nearby

Cuello This small site is located just more than 4.8km (3 miles) from Orange Walk Town, near the Cuello Rum Distillery. It is named after the family that owns the land and distillery, and permission to visit the site must be obtained in advance. While very small and little excavated, Cuello is nonetheless one of the oldest-known Mayan sites in Belize, showing evidence of occupation as far back as 2600 b.c., in the early Pre-Classic Period.

There are two main plazas on the site, surrounded by small temples and ceremonial structures. Very little has been excavated and restored so far. Evidence exists that this minor ceremonial city was razed on more than one occasion during distinct warring periods.

You can obtain permission to visit Cuello by stopping at the rum distillery at the entrance to the site, or by calling in advance ( 322-2183). If you ask, you will probably be able to get a quick tour of the distillery as well. You might also be able to arrange for a guided tour by asking around Orange Walk Town. To get here, take the San Antonio Road out of Orange Walk Town toward Yo Creek.

Noh Mul Noh Mul means “great mound,” and this site boasts the largest Mayan structure in the Orange Walk District. Noh Mul was active in two distinct periods, the late Pre-Classic era from around 350 b.c. to a.d. 250, and during the late Classic era from a.d. 600 to 900. At the time, it was a major ceremonial center and supported a massive residential community that extended for nearly 21 sq. km (8 sq. miles). One of the more interesting features here is the fact that the two major ceremonial plazas are connected by a raised walkway, or sacbe. Crude excavation techniques, pillaging, and local agriculture have combined to limit the amount of restoration and conservation in evidence at Noh Mul.

Noh Mul is located about 1.6km (1 mile) west of the small village of San Pablo, which itself is about 14km (8 2/3 miles) north of Orange Walk Town. Any nonexpress bus running the northern line to Corozal and Chetumal can drop you off at San Pablo. However, your best bet for visiting Noh Mul is to try to arrange a tour in advance in Orange Walk Town or Belize City. You should have permission to visit Noh Mul; to get permission in San Pablo, check in with Esteban Itzab (no phone), whose house is located across from the water tower in the heart of the village. There are no facilities on-site, so bring some food and water with you.

Where to Stay & Dine

There are few good dining options in Orange Walk Town. Your best bet is Nahil Mayab Restaurant ★, on the corner of Santa Ana and Guadalupe streets ( 322-0831; www.nahilmayab.com), an excellent all-purpose restaurant and bar serving a range of local dishes. The best seats here are located in a pretty garden patio, where you’ll also find a small children’s playground. These folks also offer free Wi-Fi. Another good option is El Establo Bar & Grill, Northern Highway ( 322-0094), a tidy roadside joint on the main highway just north of town.

Inexpensive

D*Victoria Hotel For years, this was the hotel of choice in Orange Walk Town, but I much prefer the two newer options Hotel De La Fuente (see below) and St. Christopher’s Hotel (see below). You’ll still find spacious, clean rooms here, but the decor is definitely dated and the hotel sits right on the side of a dreary section of the Northern Highway. You’ll also find a cool swimming pool with a tiled patio around it. The higher-priced rooms feature air-conditioning. The restaurant serves decent Belizean and Chinese food at reasonable prices. Between the raucous bar here on weekends and the everyday street noise, this is not exactly a quiet spot.

40 Belize-Corozal Rd., Orange Walk. 322-2518. Fax 322-2847. www.dvictoriabelize.com. 31 units. BZ$60–BZ$90 double. Rates include taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small outdoor pool; room service. In room: TV, no phone.

Hotel De La Fuente ★ This is easily the best hotel option in Orange Walk Town. Located just north of the St. Christopher, this place offers more amenities than any other hotel in town. Even the budget rooms here feature televisions, air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi, minifridges, and in-room coffeemakers. The pricier rooms are larger and come with a kitchenette.

14 Main St., Orange Walk. /fax 322-2290. Fax 322-3651. www.hoteldelafuente.com. 22 units. BZ$70–BZ$140 double. MC, V. Amenities: All rooms smoke-free. In room: A/C, TV, minifridge, free Wi-Fi.

St. Christopher’s Hotel Named after the patron saint of world wanderers, this is a dependable option in Orange Walk Town. The rooms and bathrooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable, and the hotel is on a quiet street, just up from the New River. Most of the rooms here have air-conditioning, although a few less expensive rooms come with just fans.

10 Main St., Orange Walk. /fax 302-1064 or 322-2420. www.stchristophershotelbze.com. 25 units. BZ$50–BZ$96 double. MC, V. In room: TV, no phone.

The Submerged Crocodile: Lamanai ★★

Lamanai

Lamanai is one of the more interesting and picturesque Maya ruins to visit in Belize. Set on the edge of the New River Lagoon, it is one of the largest Maya sites in Belize and features three large pyramids, a couple of residential areas, restored steles, and open plazas, as well as a small and unique ball court that featured a large round stone set flush in its center. In addition, nearby are the ruins of two churches built by the Spanish during the 16th century; just off these ruins are the rusting remains of an abandoned sugar mill, which was set up and settled by U.S. Confederate soldiers who chose exile after the Civil War.

Lamanai was occupied continuously from around 1500 b.c. until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, and it supported non-Maya populations into the 19th century. Because it was still occupied by the Maya when the Spanish arrived, Lamanai is one of the few sites to retain its traditional name. Lamanai translates as “submerged crocodile” in Mayan; one of the principal rulers here was Lord Smoking Shell, who claimed he was the descendant of the spirit of a crocodile. Numerous crocodile images have been found in the steles, carvings, and pottery here. And there are still plenty of live crocs in the lagoon.

Lamanai was an important and powerful Pre-Classic trading city. As at Altun Ha, relics here can be traced to various cities throughout the early Mayan, Aztec, and Olmec worlds. It’s a steep and scary climb to the top of the High Temple, but the view over the treetops and the lagoon is well worth it. The site’s most striking feature just may be the Mask Temple, which features a series of 3.7m-high (12-ft.) stone-and-mortar faces set into its sides. One of these faces is well-restored and shows a distinct Olmec influence.

While many of the temples and ruins here have been cleared and restored to varying degrees, they are still surrounded by dense rainforest. The trails leading between temples offer excellent bird- and wildlife-watching opportunities.

There’s a modern visitor center and museum here. The collection, though small, is quite interesting as it shows chronologically the distinct styles and influences present over the long history at Lamanai.

Lamanai is open daily from 8am to 4pm. Admission is BZ$10. Although you can drive or fly here, the most common and scenic way to reach Lamanai is via boat up the New River. A host of different boats leave from docks just south of Orange Walk. The trip on the river is an hour of naturalist heaven as you cruise between narrow and densely forested banks and alongside flooded marshes and wetlands. Eventually, the river opens onto the New River Lagoon, with the ancient Mayan city perched strategically atop some small limestone cliffs.

Most of the year it’s possible to drive to Lamanai if you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle. During the heavy part of the rainy season, the road may become impassable. To drive here, take the Northern Highway into Orange Walk Town. Turn left near the center of town onto San Antonio Road. Follow signs to Yo Creek and San Felipe. There’s an intersection at San Felipe; follow the signs to Indian Church and Lamanai. The total distance from Orange Walk Town is just about 48km (30 miles), but it will take you at least an hour to drive there on the rough dirt road. There’s also a small airstrip in the neighboring village of Indian Church, and charter flights can be arranged through Lamanai Outpost Lodge.

While most folks either go on a guided tour or have a reservation at the Lamanai Outpost Lodge (see review below), you can drive yourself to the boat docks, just south of the Toll Hill Bridge over the New River a few miles before Orange Walk, and pick up a boat there. Expect to pay around BZ$70 to BZ$80 per person for a boat to take you upriver to the ruins and back. The boats tend to leave for Lamanai between 8 and 10am, returning between 2 and 5pm. Many are booked in advance by large tour groups, although it’s almost always possible to find a few spaces available with a boat departing in short order. Parking is safe near the docks, and the boat companies will usually watch your car for free or a nominal fee. If you want to set up the trip in advance, I recommend you book with Jungle River Tours ★, 20 Lovers Lane ( 302-2293).

Take Your Time

With the rise in cruise-ship traffic, many of the new operators run massive speedboats between Orange Walk and Lamanai. Not only are these noisier and more impersonal, but they also remove almost all of the opportunity to enjoy the bird- and wildlife-viewing along the way. Be sure to try to book a smaller, slightly slower boat—you’ll enjoy the trip much more.

A Neighboring Nature Lodge

Lamanai Outpost Lodge ★★ This rustic yet very comfortable lodge is set on a gentle hillside on the banks of the New River, about a mile from the Lamanai ruins. The rooms here are all large and made of heavy local hardwoods, with high thatch roofs. A ceiling fan is all you have—and all you will need—to cool things off. All the rooms have a private or semiprivate balcony or veranda; most of which come with a hammock all ready for your afternoon siesta. While all the rooms are very similar in comfort and design, you’ll want to ask for a riverfront room to be able to catch the sunrise from your front porch. A wide range of tours and activities is available here, and the guides are excellent. Down by the river there’s a swimming and sunbathing dock. There are also canoes here that guests can take out on the New River at any time.

Indian Church Village, on the New River (P.O. Box 63, Orange Walk). 888/733-7864 in the U.S., or 672-2000 in Belize. Fax 727/864-4062 in the U.S. www.lamanai.com. 20 units. BZ$292–BZ$680 double. Rates include tax. Multiday and all-inclusive packages available. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; smoke-free rooms; free Wi-Fi. In room: Minifridge, no phone.

Going West

The far western section of Orange Walk District is a wild area of virgin forest, remote farmlands, and underexplored Mayan ruins. It is also home to one of the country’s premier and most unique nature lodges, Chan Chich Lodge.

Río Bravo Conservation Area ★

Administered by the nonprofit Programme for Belize, this 105,218-hectare (260,000-acre) tract is a mix of virgin forest, sustainable-yield managed forest, and recovering reforestation areas. The goal of the project is to combine sustainable management techniques with educational and tourism uses in a model that can prove the practical benefits of forest preservation and conservation. The land is home to nearly 400 bird species and more than 200 species of tropical trees. It also supports a healthy population of most of the new-world cat species, and is one of the best areas in the Americas for spotting a jaguar—although these sightings are far from common or easy to come by.

La Milpa ★

Located inside the Río Bravo Conservation Area, La Milpa is the third-largest Mayan site in Belize, behind Caracol and Lamanai. Enshrouded in jungle and just barely beginning to be excavated, La Milpa is a great site for budding archaeologists and those looking for a sense of what it must have been like to discover and begin uncovering an ancient Mayan city. Set on a high ridge, La Milpa was once a great ceremonial city. So far, at least one Great Plaza, numerous smaller plazas and courtyards, and two ball courts have been uncovered. The main plaza is one of the largest such public spaces yet discovered in the Mayan world. Polychrome pottery from various periods as well as numerous carved steles have been uncovered. In 1996, excavation of a royal tomb here revealed a male skeleton buried with an elaborate and beautiful jeweled necklace. Ongoing archaeological research is being led by Boston University, in conjunction with the National Geographic Society and Programme for Belize.

A visit to La Milpa ruins is usually combined with a stay at La Milpa Field Station (see below), although it is possible to do it as a day trip from Orange Walk or on your way driving to or from Chan Chich Lodge. In any event, you will need permission and a reserved guide arranged in advance by calling the Programme for Belize ( 227-5616; www.pfbelize.org).

Where to Stay

Inside Rio Bravo

La Milpa Field Station Run by the Programme for Belize, this simple lodge is located in the heart of the wild Río Bravo Conservation Area and just 4.8km (3 miles) from La Milpa ruins. This working biological and archaeological field station also offers rooms, meals, and tours for travelers, students, and volunteers. The private thatch-roof cabins, while still relatively rustic, feature private bathrooms and a sense of being at a more typical nature lodge. For their part, the dormitory rooms and shared bathrooms are kept quite clean, and would certainly please even the most discerning backpacker or budget traveler. The dorm rooms and shared bathrooms use solar power and high-tech composting toilets. Guided tours are always available, and educational packages, sometimes including fieldwork, are often offered.

La Milpa section of Río Bravo Conservation Area, Orange Walk district. 227-5616. Fax 227-5635. www.pfbelize.org. 8 double-room cabins, 30 dormitory beds. BZ$300 per person for cabins; BZ$260 per person for dormitories. Rates, based on double occupancy, include 3 meals, taxes, and 2 guided tours daily. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; smoke-free rooms. In room: No phone.

Ruins of Your Own

Chan Chich Lodge ★★ Set in the central plaza of a small Mayan ceremonial city, Chan Chich is one of the most unusual jungle lodges in Mesoamerica. The low hills that surround 12 individual bungalows are all unexcavated pyramids and temples. The rooms feature high-pitched thatch roofs and wraparound wooden decks, and are all spacious, clean, and quite comfortable. Most come with two queen beds made up with heavy comforters and lots of pillows. My only complaint is that given the restricted size of the central plaza, most of the bungalows are quite close to each other. The deluxe bungalows are slightly larger, especially in the bathroom area, and feature king-size beds and some Japanese-style decor. There’s also a luxurious two-bedroom villa, with its own Jacuzzi and expansive living areas, well suited for families.

Behind one of the overgrown temple mounds, there’s a screened-in pool and Jacuzzi area with its own bar. Some 14km (8.65 miles) of well-groomed trails lead off from the central plaza, and a host of guided tours and hikes is available. Wildlife viewing here is excellent, with more than 350 bird species identified nearby. They also claim to average 50 to 80 daylight jaguar sightings per year. You can go horseback riding, visit nearby agricultural communities, or canoe and swim at Laguna Verde. Day trips to Lamanai, La Milpa, and other Mayan sites can also be arranged. The food here is excellent, which is a good thing, since you have no other options.

Gallon Jug, Orange Walk District (P.O. Box 37, Belize City). 800/343-8009 in the U.S., or /fax 223-4419 in Belize. www.chanchich.com. 13 units. BZ$500–BZ$600 double; BZ$1,790 villa. Rates lower in the off season. A meal package will run you an extra BZ$140 per day. Multiday all-inclusive packages are available. AE, MC, V. You can either drive here or take a charter flight to nearby Gallon Jug; if you choose the charter, Chan Chich can arrange the flight and pick you up at the airport. If you choose to drive, it takes about 4 hr. from Belize City, much of it on dirt roads, so a 4-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. If you are driving here, you will need permission to pass through the Programme for Belize’s lands; call the lodge in advance to arrange this. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; Jacuzzi; small pool; smoke-free rooms. In room: No phone.

barry bowen, Belikin Beer, Coca-Cola & Chan Chich

Building a modern nature lodge in the central plaza of an ancient Mayan ceremonial city is bound to be controversial. Some see it as a desecration and outrage. However, most recognize that the construction and operation of Chan Chich Lodge has served as an important safeguard against looters, and a strong tool for raising awareness and money to support conservation and excavation efforts.

First discovered in 1938 by J. Eric Thompson, the site was originally named Kaxil Uinic, before being renamed by Barry Bowen in 1987. Bowen, owner of the Belikin Beer company and exclusive distributor for Coca-Cola in Belize, bought more than 303,514 hectares (750,000 acres) of land (about one-sixth of the country) in the western Orange Walk District in 1984. When Bowen and his workers rediscovered Chan Chich, the site had been severely looted, and many of the mounds and temples showed signs of active looting trenches.

Chan Chich sits on some 101,171 hectares (250,000 acres) of private reserve, and is bordered to the north by the 106,028 hectares (262,000 acres) of the Río Bravo Conservation Area. Since Bowen bought the land, a total hunting ban has been enacted, and if these protected lands are connected to the Kalakmul Reserve in Mexico and the Maya Biosphere Reserve in Guatemala, they may one day form a major Mesoamerican environmental and archaeological megareserve spanning three countries.

In February 2010, Bowen was killed, when the small plane he was piloting crashed just before landing in San Pedro.

Corozal Town

13km (8 miles) N of Belize City; 50km (31 miles) N of Orange Walk Town; 13km (8 miles) S of the Mexican border

Corozal Town

Corozal is a quiet seaside town, located just south of the Río Hondo (Hondo River), which forms the border between Mexico and Belize. Set on a crystal-clear bay, Corozal was an important point on the early Mayan trading routes, and the evidence remains in the ruins of Cerros and Santa Rita. During the mid-1800s the modern town was settled with a large population of refugees from Mexico’s Caste War. In 1955, Hurricane Janet paid a visit and left few of the town’s wooden buildings standing. The rebuilding relied heavily on cement and cinderblock construction. Today, Corozal is home to a growing expatriate community. While not part of the traditional tourist circuit, Corozal Town makes a good base for fishing excursions in the calm bay; bird- and wildlife-viewing tours into nearby Shipstern Nature Reserve; shopping trips to neighboring Chetumal, Mexico; and explorations of the aforementioned Mayan ruins. New attractions in this area are a couple of swank casinos and shopping centers located just on the Belizean side of the Mexico–Belize border.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane Most flights to and from Corozal Airport connect through San Pedro Airport on Ambergris Caye. There are numerous flights connecting San Pedro to both of Belize City’s airports, as well as other destinations around the country.

Maya Island Air ( 223-1140 in Belize City, or 422-2333 in Corozal; www.mayaairways.com) has daily flights between Corozal and San Pedro, leaving San Pedro at 7 and 10am and at 2 and 4:30pm, and returning at 7:30 and 10:30am and at 2:30 and 5pm.

Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, 226-2012 in Belize City, or 422-0356 in Corozal; www.tropicair.com) has direct flights between San Pedro and Corozal, leaving every 2 hours between 7am and 5pm. The flights return to San Pedro following a similar schedule between 7:30am and 5:30pm.

On both airlines, the flight duration is 25 minutes, and the fare is BZ$95 each way.

See chapters 6 and 7 for more information on flights between San Pedro and Belize City, and other destinations around the country.

By Car Corozal Town is the last town on the Northern Highway before you reach the Mexican border. Take Freetown Road out of Belize City to connect with the Northern Highway. If you’re driving in from Mexico, you’ll reach a fork in the road 4.8km (3 miles) from the border; bear left and follow the signs to reach Corozal Town.

By Bus Buses ( 227-2255 in Belize City, or 402-3034 in Corozal) leave Belize City for Corozal and the Mexican border throughout the day, roughly every half-hour between 5:30am and 7:30pm from the main terminal on West Collet Canal Street. Catch any bus going to Corozal Town or Chetumal. The Corozal Town bus station is located 2 blocks west of the small central plaza and Town Hall. You can pick up a return bus here to Belize City, or onward to the Mexican border and Chetumal. The fare is BZ$16 to BZ$20 between Belize City and Corozal Town, BZ$6 to BZ$10 between Orange Walk Town and Corozal Town, and around BZ$6 between Chetumal and Corozal Town.

By Boat The Thunderbolt ( 226-2904 in San Pedro, or 422-0026) has two daily boats running between San Pedro on Ambergris Caye and Corozal. The boats leave each destination at 7am and 3pm and cross paths about midway. The trip takes around 90 minutes. Fare is BZ$60 one-way.

Getting Around

Corozal Town is very compact, and it’s easy to walk anywhere in the entire downtown and waterfront areas. However, if it’s just too hot, you’re too tired, or you’re heading farther afield, you can have your hotel call a taxi. Or try Corozal Bus Terminal Taxi Union ( 422-3194) or Corozal Taxi Association ( 422-2035).

If you’re looking to rent a car up here, contact Corozal Car Rentals ( 422-3339; www.corozalcars.com).

Orientation

Corozal is located right on a beautiful section of Corozal Bay. The town is laid out more or less in a grid, with avenues running roughly north–south and streets running east–west. The avenues run up numerically in order beginning with the waterfront 1st Avenue. The streets run in parallel but separate numerical order north and south from the town’s central plaza, so that 3rd Street North and 3rd Street South are two distinct roads, one located 3 blocks north of the central plaza, the other 3 blocks south. The Northern Highway from Belize City and Orange Walk enters the town from the south. If you bear right and stay close to the water, you will be on 1st Avenue. If you bear left, you will be on 7th Avenue, the town’s busiest thoroughfare, which skirts the western edge of downtown before passing the bus terminal and continuing on to Chetumal and the Mexican border.

The post office ( 422-2462) and Town Hall front the small central plaza. Most banks and businesses are within a 2-block radius in either direction.

Fast Facts If you need to call the police, dial 911 or 422-2202; for the fire department, dial 422-2105; and for medical emergencies, call the Corozal Hospital at 422-2076.

There are several banks in Corozal Town: Atlantic Bank, 1 Park St. ( 422-3473); Scotiabank, 4th Avenue ( 422-2322); and Belize Bank, 5th Avenue and 1st Street South ( 422-2087). All of these change U.S. dollars, Belize dollars, and Mexican pesos, as well as provide cash advances on your credit card.

If your hotel doesn’t have a tour desk or good connections, and you want to visit any of the sites mentioned below or take an organized tour in this region, call Belize VIP Transfer & Tours ( 422-2725; www.belizetransfers.com).

What to See & Do

There isn’t much to see or do in Corozal Town. It’s mostly just a stopping point for weary travelers. However, it sits on the shores of a pretty, quiet bay with amazing turquoise-blue water that is officially the Bay of Chetumal, but locally dubbed Corozal Bay. If you want to split hairs, the small bay just off Corozal Town could be considered a separate entity from the larger Bay of Chetumal that it sits in.

If you’ve just come from Mexico, you can take a day or two to walk around town and marvel at the difference between Mexican culture and Belizean culture. The countries are so close and yet worlds apart. Belize is truly a Caribbean country, with frame houses built on high stilts to provide coolness, protection from floods, and shade for sitting.

The heart of Corozal Town is the small plaza between 1st Street North and 1st Street South and 4th and 5th avenues. This is a good place to grab a bench and watch the locals go about their daily business. However, if you want a really inviting park bench, I recommend heading a couple of blocks east to tiny parks and public lands you’ll find all along the bayfront.

Mayan Ruins

If you haven’t yet had your fill of Mayan ruins, there are a couple to visit in the area. If you look across the water from the shore in Corozal Town, you can see Cerros or Cerro Maya on the far side of the Bay of Chetumal. “Cerro” means hill in Spanish, and the site is that little bump in the forest you can see across the bay. (Up close it seems much larger.) Cerros was an important coastal trading center during the late Pre-Classic Period. Some of the remains of this city are now under the waters of the bay, but there’s still a 21m-tall (69-ft.) pyramid built right on the water’s edge that you can climb for a wonderful view of the bay. Ask around town to find someone willing to take you by boat to the ruins. Or you can drive, by heading out of town to the south and catching the free ferry across the New River; this will connect you with the road to Cerros.

Right on the outskirts of town, you’ll find some of the remains of another ancient city many believe was the Mayan trading center of Chactemal (Chetumal). It is currently called Santa Rita. Corozal Town is actually built on the ruins of Santa Rita, which was an important late Post-Classic Mayan town and was still occupied at the time of the Spanish Conquest. The only excavated building is a small temple across the street from the Coca-Cola bottling plant. To reach it, head north past the bus station and about a kilometer (2⁄3 mile) later, at the sharp curve to the right, take the road straight ahead that leads up a hill. You’ll see the building 1 block over to the right.

Two Nearby Nature Reserves

Bird-watchers and naturalists will want to visit the nearby Shipstern Nature Reserve ★ (www.shipstern.org). The reserve’s 8,903 hectares (22,000 acres) protect a variety of distinct ecosystems and a wealth of flora and fauna. Managed by the Swiss International Tropical Conservation Foundation, Shipstern Nature Reserve is home to more than 250 bird species, and its mangroves, lagoons, and flat wetlands are excellent bird-watching sites. The massive network of lagoons and wetlands is home to manatees and Morelet’s crocodiles. The reserve also has lowland tropical dry forest unique to Belize, as well as a butterfly breeding project. The reserve is open daily from 8am to 4pm. Admission is BZ$10 per person and includes a short guided hike. It is possible to spend the night in some simple accommodations or pitch a tent inside of Shipstern Nature Reserve; rates are around BZ$30 to BZ$40 per person for a room and BZ$10 per person for camping. There’s no restaurant here, but kitchen facilities are available at the rooms. To make a reservation, call the ranger station at 423-2247.

Tip: The wetlands here are a major insect breeding ground. This is a bonanza for the birds and bats, but you might want to bring along plenty of insect repellent, and probably lightweight long-sleeved shirts and pants.

Five kilometers (3.1 miles) beyond Shipstern Nature Reserve, on the edge of the peninsula, lies the tiny lobster and fishing community of Sarteneja. In Sarteneja, the best place to stay is Fernando’s Seaside Guesthouse ( 423-2085; www.cybercayecaulker.com/sarteneja.html). Fernando is an excellent guide, and he can arrange everything from fishing or snorkeling trips to Mayan ruin excursions and night tours of the Shipstern Nature Reserve.

To drive to Shipstern Nature Reserve and Sarteneja, you used to have to first drive down to Orange Walk Town and take the Sarteneja Highway through San Estevan and Little Belize. There is now another route that cuts some time and distance off this trip. Heading south out of Corozal, stick close to the bay. Just outside of Corozal, take the small barge ferry over the New River, which then connects to the roads to Copper Bank, Progresso, Shipstern, and on to Sarteneja.

Several buses daily connect Shipstern Nature Reserve and Sarteneja to Orange Walk, Corozal Town, Chetumal, and Belize City. Alternatively, you can hitch a ride on the Thunderbolt (see “By Boat” under “Essentials,” above) heading to San Pedro, or hire a boat on the docks in Corozal for around BZ$160. The price is for the entire boat, and most boats can carry as many as 10 passengers.

The Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve lies about an hour’s boat ride away from Corozal Town. This is a great spot for snorkeling and wildlife viewing. Ask around town or at the docks; you should be able to hire a boat for around BZ$240 to BZ$300, and the snorkeling equipment and a bag lunch will probably run an extra BZ$30 to BZ$50 per person. For more information on Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve, see chapter 7.

Crossing into mexico

While Corozal Town is a sleepy little burg with a village feel to it, Chetumal, its nearby Mexican neighbor, is a small, bustling border city with a lively shopping and nightlife scene. Chetumal is also the gateway to the beaches and Mayan ruins of the Yucatán Peninsula.

Chetumal is the capital of Quintana Roo, the Mexican state that makes up much of the Yucatán Peninsula, and is home to the resort towns of Cancún, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, and Isla Mujeres, as well as the Mayan sites of Tulúm and Cobá.

Most Belizeans come to Chetumal to take advantage of the town’s “free zone,” an area with scores of duty-free shops, modern multiplex cinemas, restaurants, and a couple of casinos. You can also visit the Museo de la Cultura Maya ★, Avenida de los Héroes, between avenidas Colón and Ghandi ( 983/832-6838), which offers a much more extensive museum representation of Mayan history, art, and archaeology than you will find anywhere in Belize. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 7pm (it stays open 1 hr. later Fri–Sat). Admission is around US$4.

Just 40km (25 miles) north of Chetumal lies the beautiful Bacalar Lagoon. This natural area is also known as Las Lagunas de los Siete Colores (The Lagoons of Seven Colors), and is a good place to have lunch and admire the views.

Frequent buses run between Corozal and Chetumal. The ride takes about 1 hour, including the formalities of the border crossing. The actual border is at the Belizean city of Santa Elena on the Hondo River, 13km (8 miles) north of Corozal Town. You don’t need a visa in advance, but you will have to pay BZ$38 in departure fees. The bus fare runs around BZ$12 one-way.

Alternatively, you can head to Chetumal by boat, a quick 10-minute hop away. If you depart Belize by boat, your departure fee is just BZ$7.50.

Tip: Your best bet for changing money from U.S. or Belize dollars into Mexican pesos are the money-changers on the Belize side. Alternatively, there’s widespread compatibility between ATMs in Chetumal and other Mexican destinations and most PLUS and Cirrus debit and credit cards.

For more on the area, pick up a copy of Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán or Frommer’s Mexico.

Where to Stay

Moderate

Almond Tree Hotel Resort ★★ Located right on the water, toward the southern end of Bayshore Drive, sometimes referred to as “Gringo Lane,” this small hotel has the best rooms and pool in town. All of the rooms are on the second floor, and feature Mexican-tile floors and high ceilings. Half of them come with televisions, and two feature fridges. The pool is set amid well-tended and flowering gardens, and there’s also a small patch of beach on the bay side.

Bayshore Dr., Corozal District. 628-9224. www.almondtreeresort.com. 6 units. BZ$170–BZ$250 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Casa Blanca Hotel This is a good place to come if you really want to get away from it all. Casa Blanca is located in Consejo Village, a small retirement and vacation community located on Corozal Bay about 11km (7 miles) north of Corozal Town. All of the rooms are located on the second floor. The doors are all hand-carved with Mayan motifs in local mahogany. The restaurant serves good American, Belizean, and international fare. The best things here are a couple of large thatch palapas built fronting a long dock that juts out into the bay. Here you’ll find hammocks, and tables and chairs; either option is well-suited for hanging out in the cool shade and reading a book or watching the water.

Consejo Village (P.O. Box 212), Corozal District. 423-1018. Fax 423-1003. www.casablancabelize.com. 10 units. BZ$150–BZ$190 double; BZ$300 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Corozal Bay Inn Ten individual thatch-roof cabins are spread around the grounds of this seaside hotel. If you’re looking for amenities, this is the place to stay in Corozal. Each room has two double beds under mosquito netting, as well as a 27-inch flatscreen TV, and the entire grounds are wired for Wi-Fi. The bathrooms are large, and each room comes with a small refrigerator and a hand-painted Mexican ceramic sink in a nook off the main bedroom.

Bayshore Dr. (P.O. Box 1), Corozal Town. 442-2691. Fax 800/836-9188 in the U.S. and Canada. 10 units. BZ$160 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minifridge, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort ★ This beachfront hotel has long been the lodging and meeting place of choice in Corozal. The rooms are all housed in a two-story L-shaped building and feature clean tile floors, one king bed or two double beds, a small sitting area, and a 27-inch TV. The second-floor rooms are all nonsmoking and have a shared veranda overlooking a grassy garden area. As at the neighboring Corozal Bay Inn, there’s a sandy area by the water’s edge here that can sort of be considered a beach, although the best swimming is off the end of the private pier. The Y-Not Bar & Grill ★ serves lunch and dinner, and breakfast is served in a dining room just off the hotel lobby.

Bayshore Dr. (P.O. Box 12), Corozal Town. 800/447-2931 in the U.S. and Canada, or 442-2055. Fax 422-2829. www.tonysinn.com. 24 units. BZ$150–BZ$170 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Secluded Cabins

Taking the dirt roads linking Corozal and Orange Walk that run inland and alongside the Progresso Lagoon will bring you past one very isolated little lodge, Fantasy Point Progresso ( 420-6033; www.ict-bz.com/fantasy/index.htm). The four individual cabins here are built right on the edge of the Progresso lagoon. The cabins are simple wooden affairs, built on raised stilts. Cabin 2 is the best-placed unit, although cabins 1 and 3 both come with air-conditioning and little televisions, which the other two lack. The vibe here is very peaceful and relaxing.

Inexpensive

Copa Banana The five suites here are actually located in two side-by-side residential-style homes. Each has a full-service communal kitchen for guest use, and if you take two or three (or five) rooms, you can have one or both of the houses to yourself. Rooms are clean, bright, and spacious, and come with either one queen bed or two twin beds. Several have sea views, although the hotel is located across a small street and vacant lot from the water. Both houses have large living rooms, and one has a dining room if you decide to cook dinner. Guests have free use of the hotel’s bicycles, which is a nice plus.

409 Bayshore Dr. (P.O. Box 226), Corozal Town. 422-0284. Fax 422-2710. www.copabanana.bz. 5 units. BZ$110 double. MC, V. Amenities: Complimentary bike use; all rooms smoke-free. In room: A/C, TV, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Hok’ol K’in Guesthouse There are a handful of budget hotels right in Corozal Town, but this is the best of the bunch. The rooms here are located in a two-story building located right across the street from the bay and its little seaside promenade. Rooms are simple and most are a bit cramped, but everything’s kept sparkling clean. Those on the second floor have small private balconies, most with pretty sea views. Some of the rooms have air-conditioning, although you’ll pay a little more for it. The restaurant here serves good American and Belizean fare at very reasonable prices.

89 4th Ave. (P.O. Box 145), Corozal Town. 442-3329. Fax 422-3569. www.corozal.net. 11 units. BZ$94–BZ$110 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Mirador Hotel ★ This hotel has a commanding location, fronting Corozal Bay in the heart of Corozal Town. The imposing four-story concrete building, with a curved facade, seems a bit out of place. Rooms are spotless and simply appointed. About half of the rooms face town, so be sure to request an oceanview or cornerview room. The best feature here is the large rooftop terrace, with a covered area hung with a couple of hammocks. The hotel’s restaurant serves local and Chinese fare.

2nd St. S. and 4th Ave., Corozal Town. 442-0189. www.mirador.bz. 24 units. BZ$70–BZ$80 double; BZ$100–BZ$180 double with A/C. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: TV, free Wi-Fi.

Where to Dine

In addition to the places listed below, the restaurant at the Almond Tree Resort is also quite good, and a popular hangout for the local expatriate community.

Moderate

Y-Not Bar & Grill ★ BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL This open-air joint is the principal restaurant and bar at Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort. It has a lovely setting on the water’s edge under a high-pitched thatch roof. There’s a loft area with seating in the main restaurant, but my favorite tables on a warm starry night are located on an uncovered little wooden deck built right over the water. Start things off with some coconut shrimp or conch fritters. The chicken and beef fajitas are the most popular items here, but if you want something more substantial, try a T-bone or rack of barbecue ribs. There’s also always plenty of fresh seafood and shrimp served in a variety of sauces. I recommend the chipotle-glazed grouper.

At Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort, Corozal Bay Rd. 422-2055. Main courses BZ$14–BZ$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Inexpensive

Cactus Plaza MEXICAN Serving basic Mexican fare in a pleasant open-air setting, this is perennially one of the most popular restaurants in Corozal Town. The menu here is simple: Get some tacos, tostados, or salbutes (a disk of fried cornmeal, somewhat thicker than a traditional tortilla, usually topped with some shredded chicken, refried beans, or a cabbage salad), and maybe a side of rice and beans. My favorite seats are on the canvas-shaded rooftop patio, although you can also grab a seat at the small counter or at heavy tables on the ground floor. On weekend nights, the bar here is pretty lively.

6 6th St. S. 422-0394. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$2–BZ$12. MC, V. Tues–Sun 11:30am–10pm.

Patty’s Bistro ★★ BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL This quaint little joint is a local favorite for lunch, but it’s also open for dinner and does a brisk business in takeout as well. The menu here ranges from Belizean staples such as stew chicken and escabeche (a local chicken soup) to coconut curry shrimp and chicken mole. Brave souls might start things off with the cow-foot soup, but I prefer the shrimp and conch ceviche. There are daily chalkboard specials. The air-conditioned dining room features yellow and salmon painted walls, kitschy art, and tables with tablecloths covered in plastic and set with Mexican or Guatemalan place mats.

13 4th Ave. 402-0174. Reservations not accepted. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$15. MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Corozal Town After Dark

Corozal Town is a pretty quiet place. If you’re looking for anything resembling action, forget about it. If you want to meet some locals, fellow travelers, or expatriates, head to the bars at either Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort or the Corozal Bay Inn. They’re side by side, so if one’s not happening, you can just walk next door. On Friday and Saturday nights, you can also try the bar at Cactus Plaza.

If you’re in the mood to try your luck, head north of town to the free zone and hit the tables at the Princess Casino ( 423-7652) or the Golden Princess Casino ( 423-7680).