Chapter 10: The Cayo District & Western Belize

Western Belize, from the capital city of Belmopan to the Guatemalan border, is a land of rolling hills, dense jungles, abundant waterfalls, clear rivers, extensive caves, and numerous Maya ruins. This region was the heart of the Belizean Maya world, with the major ruins of Caracol, Xunantunich, and El Pilar, as well as lesser sites such as Cahal Pech. At the height of the Classic Maya Period, there were more residents in this area than in all of modern Belize.

Western Belize

Today, the area around Belmopan and extending throughout the Cayo District is the heart of Belize’s ecotourism industry. There are a host of national parks and protected areas, including the Guanacaste and Blue Hole National parks, the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, and the Chiquibil National Park. The pine forests and rainforests here are great for hiking and bird-watching; the rivers are excellent for canoeing, kayaking, and inner tubing; and the dirt roads are perfect for horseback riding and mountain biking.

The cave systems of the Cayo District were sacred to the ancient Maya, and many of them are open for exploration by budding and experienced spelunkers alike. Some of the more popular underground attractions include Actun Tunichil Muknal, Barton Creek Cave, Chechem Ha, Crystal Cave, and the Río Frío Cave. Of particular interest is the Caves Branch River, which provides the unique opportunity to float on an inner tube, kayak, or canoe through a series of caves.

The Western Highway runs through the heart of the Cayo District all the way to the Guatemalan border, and serves as the gateway to side trips into Guatemala’s Petén Province and the majestic Mayan ruins of Tikal (see chapter 11).

Belmopan

84km (52 miles) W of Belize City; 32km (20 miles) E of San Ignacio; 161km (100 miles) NW of Placencia

Belmopan

Belmopan is a rather desultorily planned city and the official capital of Belize. After Hurricane Hattie devastated Belize City in 1961—not the first time a storm leveled or flooded the city—government officials figured enough was enough and decided to move the country’s capital safely inland. A host of government buildings, including the National Assembly, are laid out according to a master plan, surrounded by residential areas, with everything connected by a ring road. Unfortunately, the planners who designed it didn’t count on the people’s resistance to moving here. Belmopan is an example of what happens when you build it and no one comes. In fact, many government workers make the daily commute from either Belize City or San Ignacio—both are easy rides on well-paved roads.

Unless you are coming to Belize on government business, you will probably want to avoid Belmopan entirely. However, if you are traveling around by bus, you will at least pass through it. If you get into town late at night, don’t despair—you can easily spend the night and make an early onward connection in the morning. The area around Belmopan is chock-full of natural wonders, including Guanacaste and Blue Hole National parks, as well as the Caves Branch River and its network of hollowed-out limestone caves. There are also several very comfortable and interesting nature lodges in close proximity to Belmopan.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, or 226-2012 in Belize; www.tropicair.com) flies to Belmopan’s small airport (BCV) Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Flights leave from San Pedro at 8am and 3pm, but only the 3pm flight picks up passengers in Belize City. Return flights leave Belmopan at 9am and 4pm, and both of these will stop in Belize City if there’s demand. One-way fares are BZ$95 between Belmopan and Belize Municipal Airport; BZ$126 between Belmopan and the Belize City International Airport; and BZ$165 between Belmopan and San Pedro.

By Car From Belize City, take Cemetery Road to the Western Highway. At Mile 50 you’ll see the well-marked turnoff for the Hummingbird Highway and Belmopan. Turn left here and follow signs to the entrance to Belmopan, about 3.2km (2 miles) beyond the turnoff. It should take about 1 hour to drive from Belize City to Belmopan.

By Bus Belmopan has very frequent bus service from Belize City. Nearly all buses heading west and south from Belize City stop in Belmopan. Buses to Belmopan leave roughly every half-hour from the main bus station on West Collet Canal Street between 5am and 7pm. Return buses to Belize City leave the main bus station in Belmopan about every half-hour between 5am and 7pm. The fare each way is BZ$6. The trip takes 1 1/2 hours. From Belmopan, there are also frequent onward connections to Dangriga, Placencia, Punta Gorda, and other points south, as well as to San Ignacio, Benque Viejo, and the Guatemalan border.

Getting Around

Belmopan is an extremely compact little city. You can easily walk to most places around the central hub. If you need a taxi, there are always taxis near the bus station and central market. Alternatively, you can call Elvi’s Taxi Service ( 802-3732) or Market Square Taxi Service ( 822-0371). A taxi ride anywhere in town should cost around BZ$6 to BZ$10.

Orientation

Belmopan is a planned city with a ring road and broad streets. The city itself is located just off the Hummingbird (Southern) Highway, 3.2km (2 miles) south of the Western Highway. The bus station and small central market area are the heart of the town, and you will hit them soon after heading in off the highway. Within a 2-block radius, you’ll find a couple of banks, two gas stations, and a few small strip malls. At the center of the city’s radius, just off the market and bus station, is Independence Plaza, which houses the post office and prime minister’s office. Sidewalks cut through Independence Plaza in various directions, making most of downtown Belmopan easily accessible by foot.

Fast Facts All of the principal banks in town, Atlantic Bank, Garden City Plaza ( 822-0693), Scotiabank, Ring Road ( 822-1412), and Belize Bank, 60 Market Sq. ( 822-2341), are located close to the central market and bus station.

For the police, dial 911, or 822-2220; for the fire department, dial 822-2311. The Belmopan Hospital ( 822-2264) is located on Constitution Drive, a block north of its intersection with the North Ring Road.

The Market Square Drug Store ( 822-0045) is a well-stocked pharmacy located just off the Market Square.

What to See & Do

Perhaps the biggest attraction close to Belmopan is the Belize Zoo, Western Highway, Mile Marker 29 ( 220-8004; www.belizezoo.org). For more information on visiting the zoo.

If you’re spending any time in Belmopan, it pays to see if anything is happening at the George Price Centre for Peace & Development ( 822-1054; www.gpcbelize.com). Primarily geared toward providing the local community with a library, classes, computer facilities, and meeting facilities, this place often hosts traveling art and museum exhibits, as well as movie showings, concerts, dance recitals, and theater performances.

The Underworld

The ancient Maya believed that caves were a mystical portal between the world of the living and the underworld of spirits and the dead. From their earliest days, there is evidence that the Mayans made extensive use of caves for ritual purposes, as well as for more mundane and rudimentary things such as keeping dry, storing grains, and gathering water. They called this mystical realm Xibalba.

Belize is literally riddled with caves. In almost every explored cave to date, some evidence of use by the Mayans has been uncovered. Fire pits, campsites, burial mounds, and ritual altars have all been found. Numerous pieces of pottery and abundant bones and artifacts have also been encountered. Belize offers many unique and easily accessible opportunities to explore this fascinating world, on foot, by kayak or canoe, or by floating on an inner tube. Don’t miss it.

Caves Branch River Cave System ★★★

The Caves Branch River is a gently flowing body of water coming down off the Mountain Pine Ridge. It really should be called a creek in most places. However, what makes the Caves Branch River unique is the fact that it flows in and out of a series of long limestone caves that are easily navigable on inner tubes and in kayaks.

There are two major entry points along the river for visits to the Caves Branch caves: One is at and around Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch jungle lodge, and the other is just above Jaguar Paw, a hotel built on the banks of the river. In general terms, travelers looking for more adventurous and extensive trips into the caves should head to Ian Anderson’s place; those seeking a gentler tour into the underworld or who sign up for a guided excursion out of any of the country’s major tourist centers will inevitably be doing the tour out of the Jaguar Paw entrance.

By far, most visitors either go directly through Jaguar Paw or use the same section of the river. There’s a government-operated parking area about a kilometer (2⁄3 mile) downriver from Jaguar Paw and a host of operators running the tubing tour from here. Either way, you will have to hike upstream to a put-in. Depending on the tour you choose and the amount of hiking you want to do, you will eventually climb into your inner tube and begin a slow float through anywhere from one to four caves. You will be equipped with a headlamp and little else. If your group is small enough, I recommend you coordinate and all shut off your headlamps for a period of time. It’s quite a spooky sensation to be floating in total darkness, wondering where the walls and ceilings are and whether you’ll ever emerge into daylight again.

Most of the caves here contain Mayan pottery and artifacts, although you won’t see them on the majority of tube trips, unless your guide stops for a short hike.

Cave tubing tours cost between BZ$60 and BZ$240, depending on the length of the tour. The most inexpensive way to go is to drive yourself to the government parking area mentioned above and hire one of the local guides there for around BZ$30 to BZ$50. However, you’ll generally get better guides, better service, and better equipment if you go with one of the more established operators.

For the Most Enjoyable Experience

The Caves Branch River cave system is a very popular tourist attraction, and it can get crowded at times, especially in the three caves closest to Jaguar Paw and the public entrance. When the cruise-ship groups are in the caves, it’s downright overcrowded. Whatever tour operator you use, try to time it so that you avoid other large groups if possible. I also highly recommend hiking the extra 15 minutes or so upstream to get to the fourth cave. However, if you choose to do the tour with Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch outfit, you are assured of avoiding the crowds. Also, wear plenty of insect repellent, as the mosquitoes can be fierce here (only on the hike—once you’re in the caves there are none).

Actun Tunichil Muknal ★★★

Actun Tunichil Muknal means “Cave of the Crystal Sepulcher,” and the site was featured in the 1993 National Geographic Explorer film Journey Through the Underworld. This is one of the most adventurous and rewarding caves you can visit in Belize. The trip involves a 45-minute hike and three shallow river crossings through dense forest to the entrance of the cave. A midsize stream flows out of the beautiful entrance. From here you wade, crawl, swim, and scramble, often up to your waist in water. There are some tight squeezes. Inside, you’ll come to several ceremonial and sacrificial chambers. Fourteen skeletons and burial sites have been found inside here, as well as numerous pieces of pottery and ceramic shards. There are even two rare slate steles, believed to have been used by Mayan religious and political leaders for ritual bloodletting ceremonies. Many of the skulls, skeletons, and pieces of pottery have been encased in calcium, creating an eerie effect, while others are very well maintained, making it hard to imagine that they are more than a thousand years old. Moreover, given its remote location and relatively recent discovery, Actun Tunichil Muknal has been spared much of the serious looting that has plagued many other Mayan cave sites. Only licensed guides can take visitors into this cave. Most hotels and tour agencies in the Cayo District can arrange these tours.

Note: You will get wet on this trip. Make sure your guide has a dry bag for your camera, and be sure to pack a change of clothing for when you get back to your transportation.

Zipline Canopy Tour ★

The folks at Jaguar Paw ( 820-2023; www.jaguarpaw.com) have set up an “Aerial Trek Canopy Tour,” in which visitors get to strap on a climbing harness and glide along steel cables, or ziplines, from one treetop platform to another, above and through the forest canopy. There are a total of eight platforms. At its highest, you are some 24m (80 ft.) above the forest floor. The 2-hour trip costs BZ$110 per person, and can easily be combined with their cave tubing excursion (see above) for a full-day adventure outing.

National Parks

Guanacaste National Park ★, a 20-hectare (50-acre) park located where the Hummingbird Highway turns off of the Western Highway, about 3.2km (2 miles) north of Belmopan, is an excellent introduction to tropical forests. The park is named for a huge old guanacaste (or tubroos) tree that is found within the park. Guanacaste trees were traditionally preferred for building dugout canoes, but this particular tree, which is about 100 years old, was spared the boat builders’ ax because it has a crooked and divided trunk that makes it unacceptable for canoe building. More than 35 species of epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants), including orchids, bromeliads, ferns, mosses, lichens, and philodendrons, cover its trunk and branches.

There are nearly 3.2km (2 miles) of well-marked and well-maintained trails in the park, with several benches for sitting and observing wildlife. The park is bordered on the west by Roaring Creek and on the north by the Belize River. Among the animals you might see are more than 120 species of birds, large iguanas, armadillos, kinkajous, deer, agoutis (large rodents that are a favorite game meat in Belize), and jaguarundis (small jungle cats). Bring along a bathing suit in case you want to take a refreshing dip in the Belize River. This park is administered by the Belize Audubon Society ( 223-5004; www.belizeaudubon.org) and is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Admission is BZ$5.

The Maya Mountains are primarily limestone and laced with caves, which is why this region of Belize is also known as Cave Branch. About 19km (12 miles) south of Belmopan on the Hummingbird Highway, you’ll find Blue Hole National Park ★★. The first signs you see of the park will be the parking area, visitor center, and trail entrance to St. Herman’s Cave, although I recommend you continue on to the park’s principal entrance. If you do stop here, it’s less than a .8km (1⁄2-mile) hike from the road to one of the largest and most easily accessible caves in Belize. You’ll need a good flashlight and sturdy shoes to explore this undeveloped .8km-long (1⁄2-mile) cave.

A little farther on down the Hummingbird Highway, you’ll come to a principal entrance to Blue Hole National Park ★★. The park gets its name from a crystal-clear pool, or cenote, formed in a collapsed cavern. A short, well-marked trail leads to the main attraction here. Dense jungle surrounds a small, natural pool of deep turquoise. A limestone cliff rises up from the edge of the pool on two sides. The water flows for only about 30m (100 ft.) on the surface before disappearing into a cave and flowing on underground to the Sibun River. This is a great place for a quick dip on a hot day because the water is refreshingly cool and clear. It can get crowded here on weekends, but early in the morning during the week, you may have the place almost to yourself. You can clearly see fish swimming around the edges of the Blue Hole. A 2.4km (1.5-mile) trail connects the Blue Hole pool with St. Herman’s Cave. This trail passes through lush and beautiful primary and secondary tropical forests that are rich in flora and fauna. More than 200 species of birds have been recorded here. Be sure to wear plenty of insect repellent or long-sleeved clothing, as the mosquitoes can be fierce. Tip: If you’re interested in only the pool, be sure to continue on the Hummingbird Highway, and don’t park at the St. Herman’s Cave entrance.

With a guide hired at the park entrance, you can explore the Crystalline Cave here. This cave system goes on for miles and features beautiful geological structures and formations, Mayan relics, and some calcified skeletons. The park, which is administered by the Belize Audubon Society ( 223-5004; www.belizeaudubon.org), is open daily from 8am to 5pm, and admission is BZ$8. A self-guided trail map and a brochure about the park are available at the small visitor center. And if the park ranger is available, he’ll usually throw in a brief guided tour for free. You’ll have to pay an additional BZ$30 for a 1 1/2- to 2-hour guided tour of the Crystalline Cave.

A Private Park & Educational Center

Located just inland from Mile Marker 31 on the Western Highway is Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary ( 820-3032; www.monkeybaybelize.org), a private reserve and environmental education center comprising some 433 hectares (1,070 acres) of varied natural habitat. There’s a visitor center, and a range of tours is offered. This place specializes in hosting student groups, but anyone can visit for the day, or even stay in accommodations that range from somewhat plush private rooms to a dormitory-style bunkhouse to camping. In all cases, be forewarned: The showers are cold water only, and the bathrooms are outdoor latrines. Tours include guided hikes, bird-watching expeditions, cave explorations, and canoe outings on the Sibun River. With the addition of the neighboring 911-hectare (2,250-acre) Monkey Bay Nature Reserve, this is a very large protected area, with more than 250 recorded bird species.

While walk-ins can often be accommodated, it’s best to contact them in advance before coming for any tour or stay. Rates run around BZ$16 per person for camping; BZ$30 per person for a dorm bunk and shared bathroom; and BZ$90 for a double room with private bathroom. Meals cost between BZ$16 and BZ$20. A guided 3-hour paddle on the Sibun River costs BZ$60 per person.

Golf

Belize’s only operational golf course is located on the outskirts of Belmopan. The Roaring River Golf Course ( 820-2031; www.belizegolf.net) is a par-64, 18-hole executive course. Greens fees run BZ$50 for 18 holes, and there’s no charge for a set of clubs if necessary. A 9-hole round will run you BZ$35. The course is open every day of the year from dawn to dusk.

Shopping

Located just a mile or so outside of Belmopan, on the way to Belize City, Art Box ★★ ( 822-2233; www.artboxbz.com) is an excellent gift shop spread over two floors, with an extensive collection of souvenirs, art and craft works, T-shirts, books, and other assorted Belizean-made gift items. There’s also a pleasant coffee shop on the premises, with free Wi-Fi to go along with your cappuccino or latte.

Where to Stay

In addition to the places listed below, there are four well-equipped individual cabins at the Roaring River Golf Course ( 820-2031; www.belizegolf.net) on the outskirts of Belmopan. All come with a riverview private patio and run BZ$190 per night.

In Belmopan

Moderate

Bullfrog Inn This is the most modern and comfortable hotel in Belmopan. Rooms are spacious and come with one king bed or two queen beds, air-conditioning, and cable television. Most rooms have a small private balcony with a wrought-iron railing overlooking a small patch of grass and the ring road. This place is justifiably popular with business travelers, as it’s really the only game in town. The restaurant here is one of the more dependable in town, and the bar can actually get hopping.

25 Half Moon Ave. (P.O. Box 28), Belmopan. 822-3425. Fax 822-3155. www.bullfroginn.com. 25 units. BZ$170 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV.

Inexpensive

In addition to the places listed below, you could also try the Belmopan Bed & Breakfast ( 822-0176; www.belmopanbedandbreakfast.com), which is located at 8 Trio St. and rents two neat rooms in a residential home with a swimming pool. Rates run around BZ$110 for a double, including breakfast, taxes, and free Wi-Fi.

El Rey Inn If you’re looking for a clean, inexpensive place to spend the night, try this small hotel located in a residential neighborhood just off the north ring road. The rooms are fairly basic, but the rates are some of the best in Belmopan. This little hotel has a simple restaurant serving reasonably priced meals, and a host of tours can be arranged. El Rey Inn is about a 10-minute hike or a short taxi ride from the bus station. These folks also have a sister property, Hibiscus Hotel ( 822-1418), closer to the center of town, government offices, and bus station, with rooms that feature air-conditioning and televisions.

23 Moho St., Belmopan. 822-3438. Fax 822-2682. www.belmopanhotels.com. 12 units. BZ$46–BZ$80 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

In addition to the place listed below, Belmopan now has a branch of the ever-popular and ever-expanding local Chinese franchise, Chon Saan Palace, 7069 George Price Blvd. ( 822-3388), where you can get a host of well-prepared Cantonese and Szechuan favorites. The restaurant at the Bullfrog Inn, 25 Half Moon Ave. ( 822-3425), which serves a mix of local and international cuisine, is another of the better restaurants in the city proper. While just outside of town, the restaurant at Roaring River Golf Course ( 820-2031; www.belizegolf.net) is garnering praise for its hearty and tender steaks. Budget travelers and those looking for some local flavor should probably grab food from the various vendors and stalls at the central market. But this option is not for those with delicate digestive tracts.

A couple of other options lie just outside of the city, about 26km (16 miles) east along the Western Highway at Mile Marker 32, where you’ll find a pair of popular roadside restaurants and bars: Cheers ( 822-8014) and Amigos ( 802-8000). Both are large and lively spots serving local fare, grilled meats, seafood, and typical bar food such as nachos and burgers.

Pasquale’s Pizza & Wings PIZZA/INTERNATIONAL I like the casual vibe of this local favorite. The best tables are those on an open-air wooden deck. These are picnic tables with vinyl tops stapled in place. The menu features a range of pizzas, pastas, and submarine sandwiches, as well as the namesake wings, which come in spicy and mild variations. If you want something more substantial, try the chicken cacciatore or vodka shrimp.

Corner of Forest Dr. and Slim Lane, Belmopan. 822-4663. BZ$12–BZ$20. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm; Sun noon–8pm.

Perkup Coffee Shop ★ COFFEE SHOP/INTERNATIONAL This new joint has quickly become one of the best and most popular spots in all of Belmopan. Serving a range of coffee concoctions, as well as a limited menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, and wraps, this is a great place any time. They also have quesadillas and several flavors of chicken wings. Those hearty enough to attempt their spiciest wings can win a spot on the restaurant’s “Wall of Flame.” In the evenings, it earns the distinction of being Belmopan’s only wine bar, and it’s a free Wi-Fi hot spot.

No. 4 Shopping Center (across from Brodie’s), Belmopan. 822-0001. www.perkupcoffeeshop.com. BZ$12–BZ$18. MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–8pm; Thu–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat 10am–6pm.

Serendib Restaurant BELIZEAN/SRI LANKAN/CHINESE This pleasant little restaurant is another good choice in the tiny town of San Ignacio. Former owner Hantley Pieris came to Belize from Sri Lanka years ago with the British army. Hantley has sold the place, and the menu now features a lot more local fare and Chinese cuisine, but you can still can get beef or chicken curry with yellow or fried rice and potato salad. Sandwiches, burgers, chow mein, stew chicken, and fried fish also make appearances on the menu. The best seats are in the courtyard out back.

27 Burns Ave. 824-2302. Main courses BZ$10–BZ$24. MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30am–3pm and 6–10pm.

Belmopan After Dark

For a mellow scene, you can head to the Perkup Coffee Shop ★ (see above) for a glass or bottle of wine. Their Thursday-evening open-mic night is quite fun, and there’s live music most Friday nights. The most happening spot in town is the VIP Lounge ( 802-0060), located right on Market Square. The Bullfrog Inn (see above) is another of the city’s more popular watering holes, and they frequently have raucous karaoke nights. The restaurants out on the Western Highway mentioned above are another good bet for an evening out.

Lodges Near Belmopan

While Belmopan itself is of very little interest to most travelers, several of the country’s best and most interesting nature lodges are located within close proximity to the capital city. All of the places below have their unique charms.

Banana Bank Lodge ★ Owners John and Carolyn Carr moved to Belize almost 30 years ago. Carolyn is an artist and John is a cowboy from Montana. Together, they operate one of the oldest cattle ranches in Belize and one of the original ecolodges in the country. Options range from two-bedroom cabanas that are well-suited to families to lodge rooms to the large Chateau Brio suites. Several suites have full kitchenettes. The rooms and suites have air-conditioning, while the cabanas come only with fans. Horseback riding is the most popular attraction here, but canoeing, visits to Maya ruins, and other day and overnight trips can all be arranged. On the grounds, you can visit Carolyn’s studio and get close to the Carrs’ pet jaguar, Tika Two. Cruise-ship passengers come here frequently for day trips, and it can get a little crowded and hectic when they’re around.

Western Hwy., Mile Marker 47 (P.O. Box 48, Belmopan). 820-2020. Fax 820-2026. www.bananabank.com. 14 units. BZ$260–BZ$350 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; large outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch ★★ Originally a rustic camp for hard-core adventure travelers, this place has added some very comfortable accommodations. Set on the banks of the Caves Branch River amid dense forest, the most luxurious options here are the jungle suites and bungalows, and these are in fact quite plush for jungle lodgings. The latter feature red-tile floors, large verandas, and a beautiful shower with a large screened window opening up to the forest. Folks choosing to stay in the jungle cabanas or bunkhouse share common bathroom and shower areas. These open-air showers are quite fun, as the shower heads are just old buckets with nail holes perforating them. Perhaps my favorite accommodations here are the “treehouse” suites, overlooking the river. A wide range of cave explorations, hiking, mountain biking, and kayaking tours are offered here, including overnight cave tours and jungle treks. These folks sit in the middle of a massive private nature reserve and are actively involved in local conservation programs.

Hummingbird Hwy., Mile Marker 41 1/2 (P.O. Box 356, Belmopan). 822-2800. www.cavesbranch.com. 20 units. BZ$30 per person bunkhouse; BZ$196 double cabana; BZ$330–BZ$570 double suite or bungalow. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; two-tier pool; smoke-free rooms. In room: No phone.

Pook’s Hill ★ This isolated jungle resort is set on the grounds of a small Maya ruin in the midst of a lush forest and a 121-hectare (300-acre) private reserve. The individual thatch-roof cabins are set on a hillside just off the ancient central plaza. Those highest up the hill have the best views of the surrounding forest, but they’re a little bit smaller and slightly less luxurious than the units a little lower down. My favorite cabin is Kinkajou, which is tiled with river stones. Two cabins are located below the main lodge and across a small creek; they are built on raised stilts 3.7m (12 ft.) above the ground. These two cabins have large decks and are great for bird-watching. Above the dining area is the open-air lounge and bar, which is lit by kerosene lanterns at night and buzzes with hummingbirds during the day.

Western Hwy., Mile Marker 52 1/2 (P.O. Box 14, Belmopan). /fax 820-2017. www.pookshillbelize.com. 11 units. BZ$406–BZ$472 double. Rates lower in the off season. A full meal plan here costs BZ$102 per person per day. MC, V. Turn south off Western Hwy. at Mile Marker 52 1/2 at Teakettle Village. Follow signs on the dirt roads 9.7km (6 miles) until you reach the lodge. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; laundry service. In room: No phone.

San Ignacio ★★

116km (72 miles) W of Belize City; 32km (20 miles) W of Belmopan; 13km (8 miles) E of the Guatemalan border

San Ignacio

In the foothills of the mountains close to the Guatemalan border lie the sister towns of Santa Elena and San Ignacio, which are set on either side of the beautiful Macal River. For all intents and purposes, San Ignacio is the more important town, both in general terms and particularly for travelers. Just north of town, the Macal and Mopan rivers converge to form the Belize River. San Ignacio is the business and administrative center for the Cayo District, a region of cattle ranches and dense forests, of clear rivers and Mayan ruins. It is also the second-largest metropolitan center in the country. Still, you won’t find any urban blight here. If you’ve come from Guatemala, you’ll sense immediately that you are now in a Caribbean country. If you’ve come up from the coast, you might be surprised by how cool it can get up here in the mountains. Despite the similarity in the sound of their names, the Cayo District and the cayes are worlds apart. While the cayes cater to those looking for fun in the sun, Cayo caters to those interested in nature, outdoor adventures, and Mayan ruins. This area makes a great first stop in Belize; you can get in a lot of activity before heading to the beach to relax.

For Short

The name “Cayo” is used to refer to both the Cayo District and the city of San Ignacio.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane While there is an airstrip in San Ignacio (SQS), none of the local commuter airlines has regular service here.

By Car Take the Western Highway from Belize City. It’s a straight shot all the way to San Ignacio. You’ll come to the small town of Santa Elena first. Across the Macal River lies San Ignacio. If you’re heading to San Ignacio and points west, a well-marked detour will lead you through the town of Santa Elena to a Balley bridge that enters San Ignacio toward the north end of town. The more prominent and impressive Hawksworth Bridge is solely for traffic heading east out of San Ignacio toward Santa Elena, Belmopan, and Belize City.

By Bus San Ignacio has very frequent bus service from Belize City. Buses to San Ignacio leave roughly every half-hour from the main bus station on West Collet Canal Street between 5am and 8pm. Return buses to Belize City leave the main bus station in San Ignacio roughly every half-hour between 4am and 6pm. The fare is BZ$10. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours. Most of the western-bound buses continue on beyond San Ignacio to Benque Viejo and the Guatemalan border.

Getting Around

The downtown center of San Ignacio is quite compact and easily navigated by foot. If you want to visit any of the major attractions listed below, you’ll probably have to find transportation. Frequent buses (see above) will take you to the entrances to most of the hotels listed below on Benque Viejo Road, as well as within walking distance of the Xunantunich ruins. Infrequent buses (ask around town or at the bus station; 824-3360) do service the Mountain Pine Ridge area. However, if you don’t have your own vehicle, you will probably need to take some taxis or go on organized tours.

As in the rest of Belize, roads are minimal, and almost everything can be found on or just off the Western Highway, or the road through Mountain Pine Ridge. Numerous buses ply the main road between Belmopan and San Ignacio, continuing on to the border town of Benque Viejo del Carmen. If you want to drive yourself, particularly anywhere off the main highway, a four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended.

You can rent a car from Cayo Rentals ( 824-2222; www.cayoautorentals.com) or Matus Car Rental ( 824-2005; www.matuscarrental.com). A small four-wheel-drive vehicle here should run you around BZ$120 to BZ$240 per day.

If you need a cab, call the Cayo Taxi Association ( 824-2196). Taxi fares around the Cayo District should run you as follows: BZ$6 to BZ$10 around town, BZ$20 between San Ignacio and Bullet Tree Falls, and BZ$50 between San Ignacio and Chaa Creek or duPlooy’s. Collective taxis run regularly between downtown San Ignacio and the border at Benque Viejo; the fare is BZ$8 per person.

Orientation

San Ignacio is on the banks of the Macal River, on the western side of an old metal bridge across from its sister city of Santa Elena. Across the single-lane Hawksworth Bridge is a traffic circle and a Shell gas station. Downtown San Ignacio is to the north on Burns Avenue, and the San Ignacio Hotel is located south up a steep hill on Buena Vista Road. Most of the hotels and restaurants in town are on or within a block of Burns Avenue. The road to Benque Viejo del Carmen, Xunantunich ruins, and the Guatemalan border branches off Buena Vista Road. This is actually a continuation of the Western Highway.

Fast Facts There are several banks located right in the heart of downtown San Ignacio: Atlantic Bank, at Burns Avenue and Columbus Park ( 824-2347); Scotiabank, at Burns Avenue and Riverside Street ( 824-4190); and Belize Bank, 16 Burns Ave. ( 824-2031).

To reach the police, dial 911 or 824-2022; for the fire department, dial 824-2095. The San Ignacio Hospital is located on Simpson Street, on the western side of town ( 824-2066). The post office ( 824-2049) is located on Hudson Street, near the corner of Waight’s Avenue.

The succinctly named The Pharmacy ( 824-2510) is located on West Street. If you need eyeglass repair or help, head to the Hoy Eye Center, 4 Far West St. ( 824-4101). If you need laundry done and your hotel doesn’t offer the service or charges too much, you can drop off your dirty clothes at Martha’s Guesthouse, 10 West St. ( 804-3647), for same-day service at about BZ$15 per load.

What to See & Do

The Cayo District is Belize’s prime inland tourist destination. There’s a lot to see and do in this area, from visiting Mayan ruins and caves to engaging in a broad range of adventure activities. In addition to the tours, activities, and attractions listed below, all of the listings in the Mountain Pine Ridge section (later in this chapter) and in the Belmopan section (earlier in this chapter) are easily accessible from San Ignacio.

Some of the tours, activities, and attractions listed below can be done on your own, but others will require a guide or adventure tour operator. Most hotels in the area either have their own tour operations or can arrange to hook you up with a reputable local operator. In addition, there are several long-standing tour agencies based in San Ignacio. Some of the best of these are Cayo Adventure Tours ( 824-3246; www.cayoadventure.com), Pacz Tours ★★ ( 824-2477 or 824-0536; www.pacztours.net), and Yute Expeditions ★ ( 824-2076; www.inlandbelize.com). All of these companies offer virtually all of the options listed in this chapter and more, including multiday tours, treks, and adventures.

In addition, serious bird-watchers might want to sign up for a tour with Birding in Belize ★ ( 824-2772; www.birdinginbelize.com).

Mayan Ruins

The Cayo District is in the heart of the Mayan highlands, with several major ruins and cave systems used by the ancient residents of this region. The most impressive are Xunantunich ★★ (on Benque Viejo Rd.), El Pilar ★★ (near Bullet Tree Falls Village), and Caracol ★★ (deep in the Mountain Pine Ridge area; see “Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol,” later in this chapter), but true Maya-philes can keep busy visiting a host of sites in this area. Close by, in Guatemala, lies Tikal ★★★, perhaps one of the best excavated and most impressive Mayan cities in Mesoamerica. See chapter 11 for complete coverage.

Cahal Pech High on a hill to the southwest of downtown San Ignacio are the Mayan ruins of Cahal Pech. Although compact, there are actually seven plazas here, as well as numerous residences, temples, and a couple of ball courts. Formerly the home of Mayan royals, this site has received some meticulous restoration. The restoration created a bit of controversy in town because parts of the ruins were restored to an approximation of the way they were supposed to have looked when they were first built, which is a bit more polished and modern-looking than most people like their ruins. However, the setting is beautiful, with tall old trees shading the site’s main plaza and pyramid. Tip: Be sure to climb the small B4 pyramid, on your left near the entrance to the site. Though diminutive, it offers excellent views of the Macal River.

The name Cahal Pech means the “Place of the Family of Pech” (Pech means “tick” in Mayan). The name was given to the site in the 1950s when there were quite a few ticks in the area. The ruins date back to between 650 and 900, though many think that the site was used prior to this time as well.

At the entrance, you’ll find a small museum that displays a collection of artifacts recovered from the site and provides insight into the Cahal Pech social structure. It also has a small model of the old city, as well as a skeleton recovered from one of the graves here.

Admission to the museum and ruins is BZ$10, and the site is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Be sure to ask for a copy of the informative guide to the site. To reach Cahal Pech, walk or drive up toward the San Ignacio Resort Hotel, continuing on around the curve for a few hundred yards until you pass the soccer field. Turn left here and climb the hill toward the ruins. The entrance to the ruins is beyond a large thatched building that houses the Cahal Pech disco. It’s about a 20-minute walk.

Xunantunich

Xunantunich ★★ Although you may have trouble pronouncing it (say “Zoo-nahn-too-neetch”), Xunantunich is an impressive, well-excavated, and easily accessible Mayan site. The name translates as “Maiden of the Rocks.” The main pyramid here, El Castillo, rises to 39m (128 ft.) and is clearly visible from the Western Highway as you approach. It’s a steep climb, but the view from the top is amazing—don’t miss it. You’ll be able to make out the twin border towns of Benque Viejo, Belize, and Melchor de Menchos, Guatemala. On the east side of the pyramid, near the top, is a remarkably well-preserved stucco frieze.

Down below in the temple forecourt, archaeologists found three magnificent steles portraying rulers of the region. These have been moved to the protection of the small on-site museum, yet the years and ravages of weather have made most of the carvings difficult to decipher. Xunantunich was a thriving Mayan city about the same time as Altun Ha, in the Classic Period from about 600 to 900.

The visitor center at the entrance contains a beautiful scale model of the old city, as well as a replica of the original frieze. Open daily from 8am to 4pm, the site charges an admission of BZ$10. Xunantunich is located 10km (6 1/4 miles) past San Ignacio on the road to Benque Viejo. To reach the ruins, you must cross the Mopan River aboard a tiny hand-cranked car-ferry in the village of San José Succotz. You may be able to watch colorfully dressed women washing clothes in the river as you are cranked across by the ferryman. After crossing the river, it is a short, but dusty and vigorous, uphill walk to the ruins. If you’ve got your own vehicle, you can take it across on the ferry and drive right to the ruins. To get here by bus, take any bus bound for Benque Viejo and get off in San José Succotz. You’ll see a small line of makeshift souvenir stands lining the road, just beside the ferry crossing.

Chechem Ha ★ This ancient Mayan burial cave was discovered by accident when a local hunter, Antonio Morales, went chasing after his errant dog. When the cave was explored, a cache of Mayan artifacts, including many large, fully preserved pots, was discovered. Archaeologists estimate the relics could have been placed here more than 2,000 years ago. This cave is one of only two in the area with an elaborate altar used for ceremonial purposes by the religious and ruling classes.

The cave is located 16km (10 miles) south of Benque Viejo, on a dirt road that is recommended only for four-wheel-drive vehicles. Chechem Ha, which means “Cave of Poisonwood Water,” is privately owned by the Morales family, and admission is allowed only with a prearranged guided tour. Ideally, you should make a reservation in advance, although it’s often hard to contact and confirm with the Morales family; their phone number is 820-4063. If you receive no response, you can usually drive out to the entrance any morning and arrange the tour directly with the Morales family beforehand. The cost of a 45-minute tour is BZ$60 for up to three people if you book directly. Local hotels and tour companies also offer this trip, but charge a little bit more. You can also visit Chechem Ha on an organized tour with one of the local agencies working with the Morales family. Almost every hotel and tour agency in the area can arrange this for you, although they tend to charge a little bit more for their efforts.

A short hike from the entrance, the Chechem Ha Falls make a refreshing spot to wash and cool off after clambering around inside the caves. Also close to Chechem Ha is Vaca Falls, a beautiful and remote waterfall that’s often combined with a visit to the cave, though it’s a destination in its own right.

River Tours

For much of Belize’s history, the rivers were the main highways. The Maya used them for trading, and British loggers used them to move mahogany and logwood. If you’re interested, you can explore the Cayo District’s two rivers—the Macal and Mopan—by canoe, kayak, and inner tube. Throughout most of the year, the waters in these rivers are easily navigable both up- and downstream. However, during the rainy season, things can change drastically—and fast. I’ve heard of a few flash floods, and even one story of water nearly reaching the road on the Hawksworth Bridge.

Still, for the most part, trips are leisurely, with plenty of places to stop for a quick swim or land excursion. During the rainy season (July–Sept), white-water kayaking is available, although it’s not very consistent. Inflatable kayaks are a much more common and dependable option, not requiring nearly as much technical proficiency or water.

Most tours put in upstream on the Macal River somewhere around Chaa Creek or duPlooy’s and then float leisurely downstream. The trip can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hours, depending on how much time you spend paddling, floating, or stopping to hike or swim. All of the local riverside hotels offer this service, as well as a host of operators in San Ignacio. For its part, the Mopan River is more easily accessible in many ways, since Benque Viejo Road borders it in many places. The Mopan is well-suited for inflatable kayaks and inner tubes.

In addition to most of the tour operators listed above, you can contact David’s Adventure Tours ( 824-3674). If you want to go inner tubing, contact the folks at the Trek Stop ( 823-2265; www.thetrekstop.com).

Both of Cayo’s principal rivers are great for swimming. On the Macal River you can join the locals right in town, where the river is treated as a free laundry, car wash, horse and dog wash, and swimming hole. However, you’ll do better to head upstream. The farther upstream you head, the more isolated and clear the swimming holes become.

Another alternative is to head downriver about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) to a spot called Branch Mouth, where the different-colored waters of the Macal and Mopan rivers converge. Branch Mouth is a favorite picnic spot, with shady old trees clinging to the riverbanks. There’s even a rope swing from one of the trees. The road is dusty, so you’ll be especially happy to go for a swim here. Farther upstream, on both the Macal and Mopan rivers, are numerous swimming holes.

River Race

While it’s still possible to navigate the Belize River all the way to Belize City—the Macal and Mopan rivers join and become the Belize River—this is not generally something tourists get to do. Still, each year in early March, scores of three-person canoe teams undertake the long 290km (180-mile) paddle from San Ignacio to Belize City in the Ruta Maya Belize River Challenge. Teams gather in San Ignacio below the Hawksworth Bridge on March 5, and thousands of people line the banks of the river for the start. The finish line, fittingly enough, is the Swing Bridge in Belize City. It takes between 3 and 4 days to complete the course, with the teams scheduled to arrive in Belize City on or around Baron Bliss Day, on March 9.

Other Adventure Activities & Natural Wonders

Belize Botanic Gardens ★★ Located next to duPlooy’s and run by the same family, the Belize Botanic Gardens ( 824-3101; www.belizebotanic.org) is a sprawling collection of local and imported tropical fauna. They have an excellent mix of fruit trees, palms, bromeliads, and bamboos, all well laid out whether you are taking a self-guided or guided tour. The orchid house is not to be missed, with its beautiful collection of orchids and sculpted waterfall wall. The gardens are open daily from 7am to 5pm. Admission is BZ$10, and includes a helpful self-guided tour booklet. Guided tours cost BZ$15 per person, including the entrance fee.

Barton Creek Cave ★ This is one of the area’s more relaxing caves to explore. The trip is conducted entirely by canoe, and while there are a few tight squeezes and areas with low ceilings, in general you won’t get as wet (you’ll stay dry, in fact) or claustrophobic here as you will at many of the other caves in Belize. Located beside a small Mennonite community, Barton Creek is navigable for nearly a mile inside the cave. Along the way, by the light of headlamps and strong flashlights, you’ll see wonderful natural formations, a large gallery, and numerous Mayan artifacts, including several skeletons, believed to be the remains of ritual sacrifices. One skull sits so prominently atop a natural bridge that it’s likely that a local tour operator moved it there to heighten the dramatic effect. You can climb along the dry edges of the cave in certain parts.

There’s a BZ$10 fee to visit the site, but that doesn’t include the canoe trip or transportation. If you drive there yourself, you can hire a canoe that holds two passengers, plus the guide, for around BZ$30 to BZ$40. Tours out of San Ignacio average around BZ$100 to BZ$150 per person, including the entrance fee. Barton Creek Cave is located several miles down a side road off the Pine Ridge Road, about 6.4km (4 miles) from the Western Highway. Visits to Barton Creek Cave are often combined with a stop at the Green Hills Butterfly Ranch (see “Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol,” later in this chapter).

Horseback Riding If you enjoy horseback riding, there’s some wonderful terrain in this area. Rides can be combined with visits to jungle waterfalls and swimming holes, as well as nearby Mayan ruins. Most of the hotels in the area offer horseback riding tours.

Alternatively, you can contact the folks at Mountain Equestrian Trails ( 669-1124; www.metbelize.com), who have one of the better stables and horse-riding operations in the Cayo District. Also, keep in mind that most lodges in the area offer horseback riding, so ask at your hotel or lodge first.

The Rainforest Medicine Trail ★ Located directly between Chaa Creek and the Macal River Jungle Camp, this is the former Ix Chel Farm, which was set up by Dr. Rosita Arvigo and Dr. Greg Shropshire. Rosita studied traditional herbal medicine with Don Elijio Panti, a local Mayan medicine man and a folk hero in Belize. Panti died in February 1996 at the estimated age of 104. Here on the farm, they built a trail through the forest to share with visitors the fascinating medicinal values of many of the tropical forest’s plants.

The farm boasts a small gift shop that features local crafts, T-shirts, and several relevant books, including a couple by Arvigo. You’ll also find Ix Chel’s line of herbal concentrates, salves, and teas called Rainforest Remedies.

Self-guided visits to the Medicine Trail, along with a tour of Chaa Creek Natural History Museum and a visit to their Blue Morpho Butterfly Breeding project, cost BZ$20. You can easily spend 3 hours visiting all three attractions. Guided tours of the Medicine Trail are also available. Call 824-2037 for reservations.

Mountain Biking If your preferred activity is mountain biking, you can go on an organized tour or rent bikes in San Ignacio. From San Ignacio, a great ride is out to El Pilar ruins. You can also ride out to Xunantunich; however, that ride is mostly on the main highway. Mountain bikes are available for rent at various hotels and tour agencies around San Ignacio and should cost around BZ$6 to BZ$10 per hour, or BZ$30 to BZ$60 per day.

Be careful—the hills here are steep, and the heat and humidity can be overwhelming. Take (and drink) lots of water, and try to avoid pedaling during the middle of the day.

A Spa If you want some serious pampering, or a soothing massage after some hard-core adventure, head to the Spa at Chaa Creek ★★ ( 824-2037; www.chaacreek.com). A wide range of treatments is offered, including a hydrating manicure, a variety of facials, and a range of full-body massage treatments. Full-day and multiday spa packages are also available. The spa itself is quite lovely, set on a high hill above the Chaa Creek hotel, and the equipment and facilities are top-notch. It’s usually open daily 8am to 4pm.

Tropical Wings Nature Center ★ Located just off the main road, at Mile Marker 71 1/2 near the village of San José Succotz, is this small attraction. You’ll find an enclosed butterfly garden with scores of brightly colored and varied species flitting about. There’s also a butterfly breeding center, as well as an open-air medicinal-plant nature trail. Hummingbird feeders ensure that you’ll be buzzed by these frenetic, flighty creatures. This place is open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is BZ$6. Call 823-2265 for more information.

Shopping

Orange Gift Shop & Gallery is the best-stocked gift shop in this region and can be found at Caesar’s Place ( 824-2341; www.orangegifts.com) about 11km (7 miles) east of San Ignacio. However, I find the prices a bit high, and similar goods can be found less expensively at other shops. A good alternative in town is Arts & Crafts of Central America, 24 Burns Ave. ( 824-2253).

Throughout Belize, and especially in Cayo, you will see slate carvings of Mayan hieroglyphs. If you’re in the area, it’s worth a visit to one of the sources, the García Sisters ★★. This family of artisans runs an interesting little museum-cum-craft shop. It’s located outside of San Antonio village on the road to Mountain Pine Ridge (see “Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol,” later in this chapter, for more information).

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Ka’ana ★★★ This boutique hotel is stylish and chic. All of the art and furniture on hand are produced within a 65km (40-mile) radius of the hotel. If you want all the trappings of a modern luxury hotel, this should be your top choice in the area. Rooms all come with 40-inch plasma televisions, MP3 docking stations, a stocked minibar, and a personal espresso machine. While the rooms are nice enough, you’ll definitely want to splurge on the larger, private casitas, which feature small decks in both the front and the back. The bathrooms here feature a wall of glass tiles in the large showers, letting in natural light. In addition to the excellent restaurant here, they have a well-stocked wine cellar and cigar bar. This place is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. Ka’ana is located about 3km (2 miles) southwest of downtown, on the road out to Benque Viejo.

Mile 69 1/4 on the road to Benque Viejo (P.O. Box 263, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 877/522-6221 in the U.S. and Canada, or 824-0430 reservations office in Belize, or 820-3350 at the hotel. Fax 824-2041. www.kaanabelize.com. 15 units. BZ$500 double; BZ$700 casita. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; concierge; outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms; small spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

San Ignacio Resort Hotel ★★ This is easily the most comfortable and luxurious option in town. Set on a high ridge above the Macal River, the rooms are all spacious, modern, and smartly designed. The standard rooms come with a private balcony or patio letting out onto gardens. I actually prefer them to the Regal suites, which are somewhat larger but lack the balcony. The plushest room here is a large second-floor master suite, with a private Jacuzzi tub on its large balcony. In addition to the pool, there are jungle trails, a small iguana farm, a riverside beach and swimming hole, and a medicinal plant trail. There’s one lighted tennis court, and an excellent restaurant and bar with great views from its terrace. The casino and Stork Club bar and lounge are equally popular with locals and guests.

18 Buena Vista St. (P.O. Box 33), San Ignacio, Cayo. 800/822-3274 in the U.S., or 824-2125. Fax 824-3362. www.sanignaciobelize.com. 24 units. BZ$340 double; BZ$400 Regal suite; BZ$600 master suite. Rates slightly lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; lounge; casino; concierge; midsize outdoor pool; room service; small full-service spa; lit tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

In addition to the place listed below, The Rolson Hotel ( 824-2730; www.rolsons.com) offers clean, business-class-style rooms with televisions, air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi.

Cahal Pech Village Resort Set on a hillside on the outskirts of town, this hotel has a wonderful view of San Ignacio and is a stone’s throw away from the Cahal Pech ruins. Accommodations can be had either in the main building or in one of the thatch-roof individual cabanas. All are clean, spacious, and well-maintained, and feature carved Mayan wall hangings and colorful Guatemalan bedspreads. The rooms have larger bathrooms, and they are higher up and thus have better views from their private balconies—particularly the rooms on the third floor. On the other hand, the cabanas offer a greater sense of privacy and feature large screened-in porches. There’s a large, open-air restaurant on the second floor of the main building, where guests gather for meals and to trade travel tales, and a two-tiered midsize outdoor pool set on a high spot near the main building with a great view over the town and valley.

Cahal Pech Hill, San Ignacio, Cayo District. 824-3740. Fax 824-2225. www.cahalpech.com. 42 units. BZ$158 double; BZ$198–BZ$238 suite and family cabanas. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; mountain bike rental; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Martha’s Guest House This cozy guesthouse is located in the heart of San Ignacio, above a popular little restaurant. The vibe here is somewhere between that of a homestay and that of a youth hostel. All of the rooms are immaculate. The more expensive rooms are larger and have minifridges and coffeemakers. There are also a couple of common lounge and balcony areas, where guests can hang out and read a book or chat. The fourth-floor First Lady suite is huge, and it features a large balcony with wonderful views of the town. It also comes with its own kitchenette, making it a good option for families. These folks also have a separate option a few blocks away that they are calling The Inn at Martha’s, with fully equipped studio apartments.

10 West St. (P.O. Box 140), San Ignacio, Cayo District. 804-3647. Fax 824-2917. www.marthasbelize.com. 10 units. BZ$120 double; BZ$140–BZ$160 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, no phone; free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

San Ignacio is a very popular budget travel destination, and there are plenty of good options in town. During the high season, reservations are recommended for the more popular places. At other times, backpackers might prefer to arrive in town early enough to visit a few places, and see which place gives the best bang for the buck. Of the backpacker-geared options, I like the Hi-Et, 12 West St. ( 824-2828; thehiet@yahoo.com), with its hostel-like vibe and playful name. Those looking for accommodations with the trappings of a business-class hotel but at budget prices could also check out the New Balmoral Hotel, 17 Burns Ave. ( 804-3502), or the Plaza Hotel, 4A Burns Ave. ( 824-2040).

Cosmos Camping ( 824-2116; cosmoscamping@btl.net) is a campground on the road leading out toward Branch Mouth and Las Casitas, where you can pitch your tent for BZ$10 per day. There are showers and communal bathrooms that are kept clean, and the river is just across a field. This place is about a 15-minute hike from downtown San Ignacio, doable for a backpacker. They have some simple cabins here as well.

Casa Blanca Guest House This centrally located hotel has won a loyal following in a short period. The rooms are all located on the second floor of a building set in the heart of the city’s commercial core. The compact rooms all come with a television, ceiling fan, private bathroom, and air-conditioning, although you’ll have to pay more for the A/C. There’s a large common sitting area and a communal kitchen where you’re always likely to bump into fellow travelers. There’s also a small common balcony overlooking the hustle and bustle of Burns Avenue.

10 Burns Ave., San Ignacio, Cayo District. /fax 824-2080. www.casablancaguesthouse.com. 8 units. BZ$60 double; BZ$100 double with A/C. MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Midas Tropical Resort ★ Located a short walk from downtown San Ignacio, Midas feels a world away. The round Mayan-style cottages have thatch roofs and screen walls, and there are also wood cabins on raised stilts with corrugated roofs. All are comfortable, clean, and spacious, with ceiling fans and plenty of screened windows for ventilation. Some come with air-conditioning and televisions, and you’ll pay just a little more for the perks. The newer “King deluxe” rooms are the best bets here and an excellent value. The hotel has ample grounds with plenty of shady trees. The Macal River is only a stroll away down a grassy lane, and you can spend the day lounging on the little beach on the riverbank. If you don’t want to swim in the river, these folks offer use of a pool at their in-town sister, Venus Hotel.

Branch Mouth Rd., San Ignacio, Cayo District. 824-3172 or 824-3845. www.midasbelize.com. 13 units. BZ$108–BZ$128 double; BZ$158–BZ$178 king deluxe. MC, V. To reach Midas, walk north out of town on Savannah St., which is 1 block east of Burns Ave. The hotel is about .8km (1⁄2 mile) from the center of town. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

In addition to the places listed below, Maxim’s Chinese Restaurant, 23 Far West St. ( 824-2283), is the place to go for Chinese food, while Amore Mio ( 602-8365), fronting the bus station, is an excellent little Italian restaurant. You might also want to take the adventure of finding Sanny’s Grill, 23rd Street ( 824-2988), which is tucked away in a residential neighborhood and serves excellent seafood and grilled meats. For inexpensive eats in a large outdoor setting, you can try Hode’s Place Bar & Grill ( 804-2522), located out on the northern end of town.

Expensive

La Ceiba ★★★ BELIZEAN/FUSION This resort restaurant is one of my favorite restaurants in the country, and a not-to-miss spot if you’re staying in the region. Chef Sean Kuylen shows a deft hand, combining contemporary techniques with local ingredients, many harvested from the organic gardens here. Try the fresh red snapper marinated in herbs and wine and then baked in a salt crust, or the jerk chicken served in a coconut curry stew. I especially like the creative interpretations of Belizean classics, which often show up as daily specials and might feature a version of the seafood stew sere, or a jazzed-up stew beans and rice. However, for lunch you can always find the local pork sausage served in Dukunu—a roasted corn tamale recipe that dates to Mayan times—accompanied by a chipotle, guava, and tomato chutney. The wine selection here is excellent, well-priced, and expertly stored.

At Ka’ana resort, mile 69 1/4 on the road to Benque Viejo. 820-3350. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$24–BZ$66. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Moderate

Running W Steak House & Restaurant ★★ STEAKHOUSE/BELIZEAN This restaurant is located in the San Ignacio Resort Hotel and is affiliated with Belize’s largest beef and cattle operation, its namesake. Try the Mayan Steak, marinated strips of tenderloin grilled and served with fresh tortillas. If you want something more traditional, order the 16-ounce porterhouse. There are also fish and chicken dishes, as well as some Belizean standards. The dining room is large and comfortable, with plenty of varnished wood. A few wrought-iron tables line an outdoor patio and make a great place to have lunch with a jungle view or dinner under the stars.

18 Buena Vista St., in the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. 824-2034. Reservations recommended. Main courses BZ$20–BZ$60. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

Inexpensive

Erva’s BELIZEAN/MEXICAN There are scores of places in San Ignacio serving local cuisine, but this place is a long-standing favorite. Erva is an excellent cook and congenial hostess. In addition to traditional Belizean and Mexican standards, you can get pizza and some seafood dishes here. Still, it’s the stew chicken and rice and beans that brings folks in the door—and keeps them (and me) coming back for more. Erva’s is located on the ground floor of the Pacz Hotel.

4 Far West St. 824-2821. Main courses BZ$8–BZ$20. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Eva’s Restaurant & Bar BELIZEAN/INTERNATIONAL Eva’s is now a couple blocks off of Burns Avenue, and not quite a bustling hub of tourist activity, but you can still get hearty servings of well-prepared Belizean and Mexican standards. The escabeche, a traditional soup or stew, is excellent, as are the stew beans and rice.

Corner of Waights Ave. and Far West St. 600-0793. Main courses BZ$6–BZ$18. MC, V. Daily 6:30am–9pm.

Ko-Ox Han-Nah ★ INDIAN/PAN-ASIAN This place is also known simply as Hannah’s. Don’t be put off by the humble decor, with simple furniture and half walls with steel grating substituting for windows. The menu is massive, with a host of curries, vindaloos, and other Indian staples, mixed with a hefty dose of Chinese and Thai cuisine. Heck, you can even get burgers, burritos, Belizean fare, and big breakfasts here. Still, I recommend you come for the Indian cooking. The chef here is not shy to spice things up. The vindaloos and other spicy dishes can blow your head off if you’re not accustomed to authentic cooking. This is a great restaurant for vegetarians, with ample options to choose from.

5 Burns Ave. 824-3014. Main courses BZ$16–BZ$48. MC, V. Daily 6am–9pm.

Martha’s Restaurant & Pizza House BELIZEAN/PIZZA The restaurant at this popular budget hotel is equally popular. The homemade pizzas are excellent. You have your choice of a variety of toppings, and you can build your own. You can also get everything from burgers to burritos to vegetarian entrees, as well as local Mayan specialties such as chaya tamales, made from cornmeal and a locally grown green. This is a great place for breakfast, including the typical Belizean breakfast of fry jacks, eggs, and beans, as well as excellent huevos rancheros and strong coffee. This is a good place to grab a free Wi-Fi connection as well. Try to snag one of the outdoor tables, and be sure to thank Martha herself.

10 West St. 804-3647. Main courses BZ$16–BZ$44. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Mr. Greedy’s Pizzeria ★★AMERICAN/PIZZA This place may just serve the best pizza in Belize. Grab a table on a wooden deck fronting the street, or toward the rear of the restaurant where the floor is actually made up of sand. In addition to the pizzas, they serve a long list of bar food, including excellent burgers, and pasta dishes. For a main dish, I recommend the chicken Parmesan. This place opens early for breakfast, where you can get the day going with a breakfast burrito or breakfast burger, in addition to more traditional morning fare. The bar can get popular at night, and they also offer free Wi-Fi.

34 Burns Ave. 804-4688. Main courses BZ$15–BZ$30. MC, V. Daily 6am–midnight.

San Ignacio After Dark

San Ignacio is a pretty sleepy town. Several bars line Burns Avenue in the downtown area, though. I like the relaxed pub vibe at Mr. Greedy’s ★ (see above). On weekends, the most happening spot in town can often be found up the hill at The Stork Club ( 824-2034), which is located in the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. This place has karaoke on Thursday nights, and live bands often on the weekends.

On the north end of town, Hode’s Place Bar & Grill ( 804-2522) is a massive spot that is very popular with locals. They have a tiny casino, as well as a large video arcade, and a pool and foosball tables. Alternatively, you can find out if there’s live music at Caesar’s Place ( 824-2341), which is the home turf of the Mango Jam band, a local jazz outfit. Caesar’s is located out on the Western Highway, about 11km (7 miles) east of San Ignacio.

If you’re the gambling type, you’ll want to head to the Princess Casino ( 824-4099), which is also located at the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. I’d definitely choose this one over the very little casino at Hode’s Place ( 804-2522).

Nearby Lodges & Retreats

On the Road to Benque Viejo & the Guatemalan Border

While San Ignacio is the regional hub and does make a good base for side trips, the real attractions in western Belize are up the rivers and in the forests. Within a few miles of San Ignacio are several lodges set somewhat off the beaten path, where you can canoe down clear rivers past 1.2m (4-ft.) iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks; ride horses to Mayan ruins; hike jungle trails, and spot scores of beautiful birds and, occasionally, other wild animals. Out on the road to Caracol and Mountain Pine Ridge, there are more of these lodges. Except for the true budget traveler, I highly recommend that you stay at one of the lodges listed below while you’re in the area. A few of the lodges can be reached by public bus from San Ignacio, though you may have up to a 20-minute walk after getting off the bus, so consider taking a taxi or arranging pickup in town. All the lodges offer a wide range of active adventures and tours to all the principal sites in the area.

Very Expensive

In addition to the places listed below, Ek’ Tun ★ ( 820-3002; www.ektunbelize.com) is a unique, isolated, and gorgeous retreat with just two individual cottages set on the banks of the Macal River. It can be reached only by boat.

Chaa Creek ★★★ Located on a high, steep bank over the Macal River, this is one of the top hotels in the country. All of the thatched-roof cottages are artistically decorated with local and Guatemalan textiles and handicrafts. Each comes with a quiet porch or balcony area set amid the flowering gardens. My favorite rooms are the large treetop suites, which feature a queen bed, a sunken living-room area, and a wraparound deck fitted with a sunken Jacuzzi. The lodge has a lovely full-service spa, and a host of on-site attractions, including a natural history museum, a Blue Morpho butterfly breeding project, a medicinal plant trail, and a beautiful pool. Canoes and mountain bikes are available, and horseback rides can always be arranged. Mick and Lucy Fleming, who originally began farming this land in 1977, are the engaging hosts, and much of the food served in the restaurant is organically grown on the hotel’s own farm.

Off the road to Benque Viejo (P.O. Box 53, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 877/709-8708 in the U.S. and Canada, or 824-2037 reservations office in Belize, or 820-4010 at the lodge. Fax 824-2501. www.chaacreek.com. 23 units. BZ$540–BZ$700 double; BZ$800–BZ$1,150 suite or villa. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. To reach Chaa Creek, drive 8km (5 miles) west from San Ignacio and watch for the sign on your left. It’s another couple of miles down a rough dirt road from the main highway. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; bike rental; concierge; large outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms; small well-equipped spa; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Mopan River Resort ★ This all-inclusive resort is set on the banks of the Mopan River across from the border town of Benque Viejo. You can reach the hotel only by crossing the river in the resort’s little diesel-powered ferry. The individual bungalows are spread along the banks of the river, and all have a view of the flowing water. The bungalows are spacious, with high-pitched thatch roofs and varnished wood floors and walls. I find the bathrooms a tad small and the decor and furnishings a bit dated. Quite a few of the units come with two twin beds, so if you want a true king-size bed, be sure to specify. Aside from a limited number of entrance and border-crossing fees (if you go to Tikal) and top-shelf liquor or wine, you should have virtually no out-of-pocket expenses, as all food, drinks, tips, tours, taxes, and transfers to and from the international airport are included.

Riverside North, Benque Viejo del Carmen, Cayo District. 823-2047. Fax 823-3272. www.mopanriverresort.com. 12 units. BZ$2,050–BZ$2,256 per person for a 3-night package, double occupancy. Rates are all-inclusive. Rates higher during peak periods. Minimum 3-night stay. MC, V. The resort is closed July 1–Oct 27. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; outdoor pool; smoke-free rooms; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, no phone.

Los Finados

On November 2, the residents of Benque Viejo del Carmen celebrate Los Finados, a local version of El Día de los Muertos (The Day of the Dead), or All Souls’ Day. Families visit the local cemetery, where graves are spruced up and adorned with flowers and votive candles. Many families set up a makeshift altar for their dead at home or on the front lawn. Bollos are prepared from cornmeal dough stuffed with chicken and a local purple bean, the ixpelon. Local children make jack-o-lanterns out of hollowed-out squash or even grapefruit. At night the cemetery is alight with the flicker from hundreds of candles.

Expensive

duPlooy’s ★ This family-run lodge overlooks the Macal River, with jungle-covered limestone cliffs opposite. This stunning location, combined with personalized attention, makes duPlooy’s one of Cayo’s more popular jungle lodges. My favorite rooms are the spacious bungalows, which come with a king-size bed, futon couch, and large wooden veranda. Another option is the Belize River House, two separate multiroom suites that can be rented separately, or as one huge unit sleeping up to 14 people. The lodge’s open-air bar features a spacious deck overlooking the river. There’s a beach on the river, as well as several trails through the forest. One of the nicest features here is an elevated walkway running at the level of the forest canopy, which connects much of the complex and also juts out into the forest, offering wonderful opportunities for bird-watching. The neighboring Belize Botanic Gardens ★★ provides even more bird-watching opportunities, in addition to an abundance of tropical flora.

Off the road to Benque Viejo (P.O. Box 180, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 824-3101. Fax 824-3301. www.duplooys.com. 19 units. BZ$390 double; BZ$500–BZ$630 casita or suite. Rates include continental breakfast and unlimited entrance to the Belize Botanic Gardens. MC, V. To get here, head out of town on the road to Benque Viejo; the turnoff for duPlooy’s is the same as that for Chaa Creek, and it is well marked. DuPlooy’s is a bit farther on the same dirt road, but be sure to take the right fork and follow the signs. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; small spa; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Moderate

Black Rock Jungle River Lodge ★ So, you really want to get away from it all? Well, this is the place. The setting, on a high bluff overlooking the Macal River, is one of the most stunning in the area. The individual cabins here are lovely. The better ones feature large private balconies and fabulous views of the river and/or canyon cliffs. Meals are served in the large open-air dining room and main lodge area, which also has a fabulous view of the river below and forests all around. Much of the fresh produce is organically grown on-site, and electricity is provided by a combination of solar and hydro power sources. Swimming and inner tubing on the river from the lodge are excellent.

Off the road to Benque Viejo (P.O. Box 48, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 820-4049 reservations office, or 820-3929 at the lodge. www.blackrocklodge.com. 13 units. BZ$210–BZ$240 double; BZ$300–BZ$360 deluxe. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. MC, V. If you’re driving, take the turnoff for Chaa Creek and duPlooy’s, and then follow the signs to Black Rock. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Clarissa Falls Resort Situated on a 324-hectare (800-acre) working cattle ranch, this modest resort boasts a range of accommodations from deluxe suites to individual cabins to campsites. The thatch-roof cabins are fairly basic, with cement floors, bamboo walls, simple beds, and little else. The suites are nicely done and feature a full kitchen and dining area. The open-air restaurant here serves excellent Belizean and Mexican cuisine for very reasonable prices, and sits atop a small Mayan ruin. Owner Chena Gálvez is extremely personable, and staff members can help arrange boats and inner-tube rentals; horseback riding is also available. If you’d like to just visit for the day, you can swim in the river and picnic for BZ$2, which is a very popular activity on weekends (if you crave peace and tranquillity, visit on a weekday).

Benque Viejo Rd., Mile Marker 70 1/2 (P.O. Box 44, San Ignacio), Cayo District. /fax 824-3916. www.clarissafalls.com. 12 units. BZ$150 double; BZ$350 suite; BZ$15 per person to camp. AE, DISC, MC, V. Clarissa Falls Resort is about 1.6km (1 mile) down a dirt road, off the highway about 6km (4 miles) west of San Ignacio. The bus to Benque Viejo will drop you at the turnoff. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Macal River Jungle Camp Run by the folks at Chaa Creek, this deluxe campsite is a great choice for those who want to be close to nature but like to have a few frills and easy accessibility. The spacious tent units are all set on raised platforms among the forest trees. Each comes with two to four single beds, as well as a couple of kerosene lanterns. There’s a small sitting area or front porch, with an oil lamp and a couple of chairs. Meals are served in a central, open, thatched-roof structure, which also has some hammocks for hanging out. The communal bathroom and shower areas are clean and well-maintained. The river is down a short path from the campsite; Rainforest Medicine Trail and Chaa Creek are nearby. Guests at the tent camp can rent canoes, head over for meals a la carte, or sign up for any tours offered at Chaa Creek.

Off the road to Benque Viejo (P.O. Box 53, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 877/709-8708 in the U.S. and Canada, or 824-2037 reservations office in Belize, or 820-4010 at the lodge. Fax 824-2501. www.belizecamp.com. 10 tents. BZ$110 per person. Rates include breakfast and dinner. Rates slightly lower during the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Inexpensive

The Trek Stop This rustic little outpost is geared toward backpackers and adventure travelers. The accommodations here are spread around a broad garden and backed by dense forest, and they range from campsites to simple cabins to a couple of newer cabins with private bathrooms. Most of the wooden cabins are quite small, but they do come with a private little front porch, where you can sit and read. Guests can either eat at the little restaurant here or cook their own food in the communal kitchen. A wide range of tours and activities is offered, and inner tubing on the Mopan River is one of their specialties. They even have a 9-hole Frisbee golf course. This place is very close to the ferry over to Xunantunich. The Trek Stop is located next to the Tropical Wings Nature Center, just off the main road about 9.7km (6 miles) west of San Ignacio.

Benque Viejo Rd., Mile Marker 71 1/2, San José Succotz, Cayo District. 823-2265. www.thetrekstop.com. 10 units (8 with shared bathroom). BZ$76 double cabin; BZ$48–BZ$56 double with shared bathroom; BZ$10 per person camping. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; mountain-bike rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

On the Road to Bullet Tree Falls

El Pilar ★★ ( 824-3612; www.marc.ucsb.edu/elpilar) was discovered in the 1970s, but real excavation and exploration didn’t begin for another 20 years, and in fact it’s still in its nascent stages. The site sits on a high hill some 274m (900 ft.) above the Mopan River and is one of the largest Mayan settlements in Belize. Some say it even rivals Caracol. This ancient ceremonial city featured more than 25 known plazas and covered some 40 hectares (100 acres), straddling the Belize and Guatemala border. The site is quite large, but most visitors concentrate on Xaman Pilar (North Pilar) and Nohol Pilar (South Pilar). Pilar Poniente (West Pilar) is in Guatemala, a little less than a mile away. There are several well-marked and well-maintained trails throughout the site. While you can explore El Pilar by yourself—you can even download a very informative trail map from the above website—I still recommend hiring a local guide. Plan on spending at least 3 hours here, though you could easily spend a full day or two exploring this site. The sunsets from Plaza Ixim looking west to Pilar Poniente and the forested hills of Guatemala are spectacular.

El Pilar is located about 19km (12 miles) north of San Ignacio, past the village of Bullet Tree Falls. In addition to driving your own vehicle, several tour agencies in San Ignacio offer horseback or mountain-bike tours out to El Pilar.

A Couple of Places to Stay in Bullet Tree Falls

To get to the hotels mentioned below, take Waight’s Avenue west out of the center of San Ignacio. This turns into Bullet Tree Falls Road. Follow the flow of traffic to the village of Bullet Tree Falls. The whole trip is just more than 2 miles. If you arrange it in advance, the hotels will provide pickup, or a taxi should cost you around BZ$20.

Cohune Palms River Cabañas ★ The individual thatch-roof cabins here are beautifully done. Each features a private little balcony, strung with a hammock. Loft sleeping areas make this a great choice for families. The grounds are lush and lead down to the Mopan River, where you’ll find a lovely covered thatch-roof ranch house, open-air dining room, and large wooden deck, where you can lounge around and watch the water flow. When you’re ready to cool off, plunge in using the nearby rope swing, or ask for an inner tube for a leisurely float.

Bullet Tree Falls (P.O. Box 198, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 820-0166 or 609-2738. www.cohunepalms.com. 4 units. BZ$138–BZ$198 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; mountain-bike rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Parrot’s Nest Just upstream from Cohune Palms, the Parrot’s Nest is set on a 2-hectare (5-acre) tropical plant farm on the banks of the Mopan River. This simple lodge consists of a few rustic wooden cabins; two of these are set high on stilts, among the branches of a huge guanacaste tree. Only one of the units has a private bathroom, but the shared showers and toilets are kept immaculate. A host of tours and activities can be arranged. You can also take an inner tube right from the lodge and spend some time floating on the river.

Bullet Tree Falls (P.O. Box 198, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 820-4058. www.parrot-nest.com. 6 units (5 with shared bathroom). BZ$90 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; mountain-bike rental. In room: No phone.

Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol ★★

111km (69 miles) W of Belize City

Mountain Pine Ridge

South of San Ignacio and the Western Highway, and east of the Macal River, lies the Mountain Pine Ridge region of Belize. Few people think of pine trees when thinking about the tropics, but you’ll see plenty of them in these rugged mountains. This area is a natural wonderland of spectacular waterfalls, wild orchids, parrots, keel-billed toucans, and other exotic flora and fauna. Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, Hidden Valley Falls (also called Thousand Foot Falls), Five Sisters Falls, and the Río on Pools and Río Frío Caves are all located in this area.

Continuing on through the Mountain Pine Ridge, you’ll eventually come to Caracol, which is the largest of the Belizean Mayan ruins. Caracol was a major Classic Mayan center, rivaling and frequently battling nearby Tikal. Excavation is still in its infancy here, but the site is nonetheless impressive. At nearly 42m (138 ft.), the main pyramid at Caracol remains the tallest manmade structure in Belize.

Pine beetle infestations and forest fires have periodically ravaged the forests of the Mountain Pine Ridge reserve, leaving broad swaths totally barren for miles. However, the forests here tend to recover well, and quickly.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane The nearest airport to this region is in San Ignacio. Although it gets no regularly scheduled commuter traffic, there is a private airstrip at Blancaneaux Lodge for charter flights to that hotel.

By Car If you’re driving to the Mountain Pine Ridge area from Belize City along the Western Highway, the first turnoff is at Georgeville, around Mile Marker 61. This is the quickest route if you’re going deep into the Mountain Pine Ridge area and to Caracol. There’s another turnoff in the town of Santa Elena that will take you through Cristo Rey and San Antonio villages, as well as to some of the lodges listed below. Whichever of these routes you take, the roads merge around Mile Marker 10, where you will come to the entrance to the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. The guard will ask you where you are going, and whether you have a reservation, but there is no fee to enter the reserve.

These roads can get pretty muddy and slick in the wet season and are bumpy and rugged in the dry season, so I recommend you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, if nothing else, for the extra clearance it will provide. Even though the distances seem relatively slight in terms of mileage, the going can be slow, so allow plenty of driving time if you plan on visiting this area.

Tip: The difference in time and distance between these two turnoffs is negligible, as they meet up about 14km (8 2/3 miles) in from the Western Highway (19km/12 miles if you’re coming via Cristo Rey Village and San Antonio Village).

By Bus There is no regular direct bus service to the Mountain Pine Ridge area from Belize City.

Getting Around

Your best bet for getting around this area is to have your own vehicle. Short of that, you can rely on your hotel or organized tours. Taxis can be called from San Ignacio and Santa Elena. For a cab, call Cayo Taxi Association at 824-2196. A cab from San Ignacio to any of the hotels in this area costs around BZ$80 to BZ$120, and a cab from Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport in Belize City to a hotel in this area costs between BZ$250 and BZ$300.

Orientation

Once the two entrance roads join up, there is basically one “major” road leading through the Mountain Pine Forest Reserve and on out to the Caracol ruins. This rough dirt road is alternatively known as the Pine Ridge Road or the Chiquibil Road. Caracol, the Río on Pools, Río Frío Cave, and Five Sister Falls are located either right on or just off this road. Various spurs and assorted lesser roads head off toward some of the other attractions and destinations listed below. Everything is fairly well-marked and signposted.

There are no major settlements in this area. The only town of any size and note is San Antonio Village, a quaint little Maya village.

What to See & Do

The easiest way to visit Mountain Pine Ridge and its many attractions is on a guided tour out of San Ignacio or one of the nearby lodges. These tours average between BZ$60 and BZ$120 per person for a half-day tour of Mountain Pine Ridge and a visit to one of the waterfalls, and about BZ$180 to BZ$300 for a full-day guided trip to Caracol with lunch. If you’re staying in Mountain Pine Ridge, just arrange the tour with your hotel. If you’re in San Ignacio, check in with Pacz Tours ★★ ( 824-2477 or 824-0536; www.pacztours.net) or Yute Expeditions ★ ( 824-2076; www.inlandbelize.com).

Horseback Riding The terrain here is wonderful for horseback riding. Most horseback tours will take you to one or more of the major attractions in this area, or at least to some quiet swimming hole or isolated waterfall. Most of the hotels out here offer horseback riding tours. Alternatively, you can contact the folks at Mountain Equestrian Trails ( 669-1124; www.metbelize.com), who have one of the better stables and horse-riding operations in the Cayo District. A half-day trip including lunch costs BZ$122 per person; a full-day trip costs BZ$166.

Mountain Biking This region lends itself equally well to mountain biking. The same trails and dirt roads that are used by cars and horses are especially well-suited for fat-tire explorations. Most of the hotels in the region have bikes for rent or free for guests. If not, you’ll probably have to have them arrange it for you, or contact an agency in San Ignacio (see “San Ignacio,” earlier in this chapter).

ZipLine Canopy & Cave Tours ★ The folks at Calico Jack’s Village ( 820-4078; www.calicojacksvillage.com) have opened up a multiadventure sport attraction in the hills and forests just outside the village of El Progresso. The main attraction here is a zipline canopy tour, in which you use a climbing harness and pulley system to glide along steel cables from one treetop platform to another. There are a total of six platforms here, connected by five cables. The longest cable is some 427m (1,400 ft.). The roughly hour-long trip costs BZ$110 per person. While here you can also take a guided tour of one of their on-site caves (BZ$90) or hike their jungle trails (BZ$80). Combination packages with lunch are available, and they have a few onsite villas for those looking to stay.

Will Natural Wonders Never Cease?

Waterfalls Waterfalls are abundant in this region. Perhaps my favorite are the falls found at the Río on Pools ★★. This is a series of falls and pools somewhat reminiscent of Ocho Ríos in Jamaica. There’s a little entrance hut and parking lot when you enter the area. From here, some concrete steps lead straight down a very steep hill to the base of the falls. While the views and swimming are fine at the bottom, it’s a very strenuous hike back up, and I personally think you’ll find better pools and views by hiking a few minutes upstream. Here you’ll find numerous pools and rapids flowing between big rocks. Many of these rocks are perfect for sunbathing. This place can get crowded on weekends, when locals come for family picnics and getaways. The Río on Pools are located at around Mile Marker 18 1/2 of the Pine Ridge Road. There is no entrance fee.

You can also visit the Five Sister Falls ★★, a lovely series of cascading falls that divides into five distinct side-by-side cascades just above the riverside beach and bar area of the Five Sisters Lodge. If you are not staying at the lodge, you may visit the falls for BZ$10. It’s 290 steps, almost straight down, to the water and the base of the falls. Luckily, you don’t have to hoof it, unless you want to, since they have a little funicular. For an extra charge of BZ$8, the funicular will take you to and from the base of the falls, where the hotel has a little beach area and several natural swimming holes. There are some nature trails you can hike, and a small snack bar, restrooms, and changing facilities. You’ll even find a wonderful open-air thatch palapa on the banks of the river strung with hammocks—a compelling spot for an afternoon siesta.

Rio Frio Cave This high, vaulted cave is about 183m (600 ft.) long and open at both ends, with a lazy creek flowing through it. There’s a path leading through the cave, and several hiking trails run through the forests surrounding it. This is a good cave for those who might normally find the thought of spelunking too claustrophobic for comfort. The views looking out from within the cave are gorgeous. Along the neighboring trails you will find other caves that you can venture into. However, be careful and be sure to have a good flashlight. To reach the Río Frío Cave, drive the Pine Ridge Road to Douglas Da Silva Village at about Mile Marker 24. Do not follow the turnoff for Caracol, but head into the little village. Here you will see signs for the turnoff to the cave. The cave is about 1.6km (1 mile) outside the village. There’s a small parking area very close to the mouth of the cave and a couple of picnic tables and benches along the river. No admission is charged to visit here.

Butterflies The Green Hills Butterfly Ranch & Botanical Collection ★ ( 820-4017; www.green-hills.net) is a lovely little project affording you the chance to see numerous butterfly species and a range of tropical flora. These folks raise dozens of local species of butterflies, and visitors get to see them up close and personal. This place is located at around Mile Marker 8 of the Pine Ridge Road, across from Mountain Equestrian Trails. Guided tours (BZ$25) are offered daily, between 8am and 3:30pm. Reservations are recommended.

Caracol ★★

Caracol

Caracol (www.caracol.org) is the largest known Mayan archaeological site in Belize, and one of the great Mayan city-states of the Classic era (a.d. 250–950). At one point, Caracol supported a population of more than 150,000. Caracol, which means “shell” in Spanish, gets its name from the large number of snail shells found here during early explorations. So far three main plazas with numerous structures and two ball courts have been excavated.

Sky Scraper

The largest pyramid at Caracol, Caana or “Sky Palace,” stands some 41m (135 ft.) high, and is the tallest Maya building in Belize, and still the tallest man-made structure in the country (the Radisson Fort George in Belize City is the only modern structure that even comes close).

Caracol has revealed a wealth of informative carved glyphs that have allowed archaeologists to fill in much of the history of this once powerful city-state. Glyphs here claim Caracol defeats of rivals Tikal in a.d. 562 and Naranjo in 631. One of the earliest temples here was built in a.d. 70, and the Caracol royal family has been officially chronicled since 331. The last recorded date on a glyph is 859, and archaeologists conclude that by 1050 Caracol had been completely abandoned.

Caracol is located deep within the Chiquibil Forest Reserve. The ruins are not nearly as well-cleared or excavated as Tikal or Xunantunich. However, this is part of the site’s charm. There is great bird-watching and the chance to see other wild fauna out here. Moreover, the area has been declared the Caracol Archaeological Reserve, and excavation and restoration are ongoing. A visit to Caracol is often combined with a stop at the Río on Pools or one or more of the other attractions in the Mountain Pine Ridge area.

Caracol is open daily from 8am to 4pm; admission is BZ$15. There’s a small visitor center at the entrance, and a guide can sometimes be hired here, although most visitors come with their own guide as part of an organized tour. Caracol is about 80km (50 miles) along a dirt road from the Western Highway. Actually, the final 16km (10 miles) into the park are paved. Plan on the drive taking about 2 hours, a little more if the road is in bad shape.

Shopping

If you’re in the area, be sure to stop at the Tanah Mayan Art Museum ★ ( 824-3310; daily 8am–5pm), run by the García sisters, some of the premier artisans working in carved slate. While it’s a stretch to call their little shop and showroom a museum, you will find a nice collection of the García sisters’ carvings, as well as other Maya artifacts and handicrafts. This place is located at about Mile Marker 8 of the Cristo Rey Road, about a mile before you reach the village of San Antonio. On the other side of the village, you should stop at the Magaña Zaac Tunich Art Gallery (no phone), which carries a range of local craftworks and specializes in woodcarvings.

Where to Stay & Dine

Very Expensive

Blancaneaux Lodge ★★★ This remote ecolodge, another of Francis Ford Coppola’s properties, is set on a steep, pine-forested hillside, overlooking the Privassion River and a series of gentle falls. The individual cabanas here are all cozy and intimate. Most of these are “riverfront” units, although a couple are termed “garden view.” My favorites are the riverfront “honeymoon” units, which have private plunge pools. Most of the villas are two-bedroom, two-bathroom affairs. The best feature of these is their large, open-air central living area, which flows into a forest- and riverview deck. Villa 7 is Coppola’s private villa whenever he visits, and it features some of the director’s photo memorabilia, as well as a painting by his daughter and fellow director Sofia Coppola. You can rent it whenever he’s not around, and it comes with a private plunge pool and a personal butler. The luxurious “Enchanted Cottage” is a short distance from everything else, and has a great view, an infinity pool, and personal butler service, as well.

Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve (P.O. Box B, Central Farm), Cayo District. 800/746-3743 in the U.S., 824-4912 reservations office in Belize, or 824-3878 at the lodge. Fax 824-3919. www.blancaneaux.com. 20 units. BZ$560–BZ$1,000 double cabin; BZ$1,080–BZ$1,450 2-bedroom villa; BZ$2,800 Enchanted Cottage. Rates include continental breakfast. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak weeks. AE, MC, V. Blancaneaux has its own airstrip, and charter flights from Belize City can be arranged. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; bike rental; horse stables; 2 outdoor pools; small spa. In room: Free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Hidden Valley Inn ★★ This isolated mountain resort has a beautiful setting on more than 2,833 hectares (7,000 acres) of private land. The individual bungalows are all plenty roomy, and come with either one queen bed or two twin beds, as well as cool red-tile floors, high ceilings, and a working fireplace. Deluxe units feature beautiful claw-foot bathtubs and outdoor waterfall showers. The outdoor pool and Jacuzzi are surrounded by a beautiful slate deck. This is the closest hotel to the Hidden Valley, or Thousand Foot Falls, the tallest waterfall in Belize, a semistrenuous 2-hour hike from the hotel. However, there are actually several other, much more easily accessible, jungle waterfalls and swimming holes right on the property. The property boasts an extensive network of trails, and the bird-watching is excellent. The coffee you’re served at breakfast is grown right here, as are many of the fruits and vegetables.

Mountain Pine Ridge (P.O. Box 170, Belmopan), Cayo District. 866/443-3364 in the U.S., or 822-3320 in Belize. Fax 822-3334. www.hiddenvalleyinn.com. 12 units. BZ$390 double; BZ$500 deluxe. Rates slightly lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; free mountain bike use; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Mountain Equestrian Trails (MET) ★ The folks here are some of the best horse- and adventure-tour operators in the area. The rooms are decidedly rustic and a bit pricey for what you get. Housed in a series of duplex buildings, all feature high thatched roofs, cool tile floors, queen beds hung with mosquito netting, and plenty of windows for cross-ventilation. The rooms do feature colorful Guatemalan bedspreads and indigenous arts and crafts on the walls. There’s no electricity in the rooms, and kerosene lanterns provide light. A large open-air palapa serves as the lodge’s restaurant, bar, and meeting area. While horses and horseback riding tours are the principal draw here, a whole range of tours and activities is offered. The owners at MET helped create the private Slate Creek Preserve, a 1,214-hectare (3,000-acre) tract of land bordering the Mountain Pine Ridge Preserve. A meal package runs BZ$78 per person per day.

Pine Ridge Rd., Cayo District. 800/838-3918 in the U.S. and Canada, or 669-1124 in Belize. www.metbelize.com. 10 units. BZ$264 double. Rates lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: No phone.

Mystic River Resort ★★ Perched on a hill overlooking the Macal River, every room here is a private little cabin, with high wood ceilings, a working fireplace, a small sitting area with a divan, and a cozy, private balcony for peering through the trees to the river below. Furnishings and decor are tasteful. The small plunge pool is only .6m (2 ft.) deep, but features a central fountain and an adjacent shade area with chaise longues and a nearby bar, making it a popular place to hang out. Creative meals are served in the large open-air dining room.

Mile 6, Cristo Rey Rd., Cayo District. 678-6700. www.mysticriverbelize.com. 11 units. BZ$350–BZ$450 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free canoe use; small plunge pool; smoke-free rooms; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, MP3 docking station, no phone.

Table Rock Camp & Cabañas ★ This intimate resort is a great choice in the region. Rooms feature high-pitched thatch roofs, plenty of louvered windows for ventilation, cool tile floors, and pretty showers built with smooth, local river stones. Two of the rooms are part of a duplex building, with small private decks off the front. But the Mot Mot cabin here is the top choice, with more space and a spacious private veranda. It’s a short hike down to the Macal River, where the lodge keeps several canoes and has built an open-air octagonal hammock hut beside a pretty patch of beach. Much of the land here is devoted to organic gardens and citrus groves. Meals and service are top-notch.

Mile 5, Cristo Rey Rd. (P.O. Box 179), Cayo District. 670-4910. www.tablerockbelize.com. 6 units. BZ$270–BZ$310 double. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free bike use; free canoe use; all rooms smoke-free; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Moderate

Crystal Paradise Resort The nicest thing about this little family-run resort is probably the Tut family that runs it. Most of the rooms are in thatch-roof duplex buildings, with tile floors, ceiling fans, and private verandas. The best rooms face the Macal River Valley, with beautiful views of the surrounding forests. One popular feature here is the on-site bird-watching platform built to blend in with the forest canopy. A host of tours is offered, and the in-house guides—most of them family members—are excellent. The restaurant serves wonderful Belizean cuisine, and there’s always a convivial vibe in the open-air dining room, bar, and lounge areas. This place is located on the road to Mountain Pine Ridge, near the tiny Cristo Rey Village.

Cristo Rey Village (P.O. Box 126), Cayo District. /fax 824-2772 reservations office or 820-4014 at the lodge. www.crystalparadise.com. 20 units. BZ$118–BZ$158 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge. In room: No phone.

Five Sisters Lodge ★ This hotel is located in the heart of the Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, about 61m (200 ft.) above its namesake Five Sisters Falls, a beautiful and rambling series of waterfalls and swimming holes. The individual cottages have palmetto stick walls, thatched roofs, and beds hung with mosquito netting. Some have polished wood floors, while others feature cool Mexican tiles. All have a mix of local and Guatemalan furnishings and decor, as well as a screened-in veranda hung with a hammock. The junior suites feature excellent waterfall views, king-size beds, and large tubs. The standard rooms are comfortable enough, but most lack a view or balcony. The best room here, although it’s a good distance from the main lodge, is the Riverside Villa, a luxurious cabin set down by the river and falls.

Mountain Pine Ridge (P.O. Box 173, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 800/447-2931 in the U.S. and Canada, or 820-4048 in Belize. Fax 820-4024. www.fivesisterslodge.com. 19 units. BZ$210–BZ$230 double; BZ$300 junior suite; BZ$500 Riverside Villa. Rates include continental breakfast. Rates lower in the off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge. In room: No phone.

Pine Ridge Lodge This rustic little lodge is located in the heart of the Mountain Pine Ridge area, close to all attractions. Most of the rooms are in duplex units, with polished concrete floors, simple wooden furniture, and local and Guatemalan crafts and textiles completing the decor. Light in the rooms is provided by kerosene lanterns, and the showers are heated by on-demand butane heaters. The grounds are loaded with a wide variety of orchids and attract an equally wide variety of bird species. The lodge is set on the banks of a small creek, and the best rooms are close to and overlooking this creek. There’s also a small waterfall an easy hike from the lodge. Meals, which feature organic fruits and vegetables grown on-site, are served family-style in the small screened-in dining room and bar area.

Mountain Pine Ridge (P.O. Box 128, San Ignacio), Cayo District. 800/316-0706 in the U.S., or 606-4557. www.pineridgelodge.com. 6 units. BZ$178 double. Rates lower in the off season. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: No phone.