Chapter 11: Tikal & Guatemala’s Petén

Bordering Belize, Mexico, and Honduras, and occupying the entire northeastern section of Guatemala, the Petén is Guatemala’s largest and least populated province. Most of the Petén is forest—thick tropical rainforest. It is a lush and wild landscape that contains some of Mesoamerica’s richest archaeological treasures. In 1990, the government of Guatemala officially established the Maya Biosphere Reserve, a tract of 1 million hectares (2.5 million acres) that includes most of the Petén Province. Moreover, the Maya Biosphere Reserve adjoins the neighboring Calakmul Biosphere Reserve in Mexico and the Río Bravo Conservation Area in Belize, comprising a joint protected area of more than 2 million hectares (5 million acres).

Petén

The Petén Province is home to perhaps the most impressive and best preserved of the ancient Mayan ceremonial cities, Tikal. It is also home to numerous other lesser, and less excavated, sites. In addition, the area is a rich and rewarding destination for bird-watchers and ecotourists. Given the close proximity of Tikal to the Belize border (and the long distance between Guatemala City and the Petén), it is in some ways more convenient to visit Tikal from Belize than it is from Guatemala. This chapter will give you all the necessary information to plan a visit to this fascinating destination, whether you want to take a quick 1-day tour of the ruins at Tikal or a multiday adventure exploring the region.

Tikal ★★★

100km (62 miles) NW of the Belize border; 65km (40 miles) N of Flores

Tikal

Tikal is one of the greatest of the surviving Classic Maya cities. It is estimated that Tikal once supported a population of about 100,000 people. Archaeologists have identified more than 3,000 structures, and in its heyday, the city probably covered as much as 65 sq. km (25 sq. miles). Tikal is far more extensively excavated than any ruins in Belize, and unlike the grand cities and excavations in Mexico, Tikal rises out of dense jungle. The pyramids here are some of the most perfect examples of ceremonial architecture in the Maya world. Standing atop Temple IV, you are high above the rainforest canopy. The peaks of several temples poke through the dense vegetation. Toucans and parrots fly about, and the loudest noise you’ll hear is the guttural call of howler monkeys.

Tikal is within easy reach of Belize’s western border, and scores of organized tour groups and independent travelers from Belize visit the site every day.

Telephone Tip

Guatemala’s country code is 502 (Belize’s is 501). Guatemala uses an eight-digit phone numbering system. Nonetheless, to avoid confusion between Belizean and Guatemalan telephone numbers, we have included the country code in the Guatemalan numbers, whereas in this section and throughout the book, we’ve omitted the Belizean country code in phone number listings.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane Tropic Air ( 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, 226-2012 in Belize City, or 502/7926-0348 in Flores; www.tropicair.com) has two daily flights to Flores Airport (FRS) from Goldson International Airport in Belize City, at 7:45am and 3pm. The flights return at 8:45am and 4:15pm. Flight duration is 45 minutes; it costs BZ$228 each way or BZ$447 round-trip.

Leaving Belize, you will have to pay a total of BZ$79 in departure taxes. Leaving Guatemala, there is a US$30 departure tax for international flights, as well as a US$3 Guatemalan tax on all flights to and from Flores.

The airport is on the road to Tikal, about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) east of Santa Elena. A taxi from the airport into Santa Elena or Flores should cost you around Q25 (25 quetzales; ). Or you can take a local bus (usually an old Bluebird school bus) for around Q1. Collective taxis and minivans to Tikal are usually waiting at the airport and charge around Q50 per person each way. You can sometimes bargain, and you can often get a slight discount if you purchase a round-trip fare right from the start. A private taxi can be hired for the drive for around Q400.

By Car Driving from Belize City, take the Western Highway to San Ignacio, and continue on to the border town of Benque Viejo del Carmen. From Benque, follow the signs to the border at a bridge over the Mopan River, a little more than 1.6km (1 mile) out of town.

The border crossing and formalities are very similar to those described below in “By Bus.” You will be corralled by touts on the Guatemalan side offering all sorts of aid and services, and demanding all sorts of fees and duties. By law you are supposed to have your tires fumigated. This should cost only a U.S. dollar or two. You should not have to pay any additional fees. Whether you are driving your own car or a rental car, be sure to have all your current registration, title, and insurance papers.

Once across the border, follow signs out of Melchor de Mencos toward Flores and Tikal. It’s about a 1-hour drive to the crossroads at Ixlú, also known as El Cruce. If you are going to El Remate or Tikal, you will turn right here. If you are going to Flores or Santa Elena, you will continue on straight. From Ixlú, it’s about 25 to 30 minutes either way to Santa Elena/Flores or the ruins at Tikal. The entrance to Tikal National Park is located 18km (11 miles) south of the visitor center and true entrance to the ruins and its network of trails. Here you will have to pay the Q150 entrance fee. The entrance is open daily from 6am to 6pm. If you arrive after 3pm, tell them you plan to visit the ruins the following day, and they will stamp your ticket to that effect. If you plan to spend more than a day here staying at one of the hotels or campsites near the ruins, advise them and try to pay your entrance fee for subsequent days in advance, as sometimes they send people all the way back to the entrance gate to buy a subsequent day’s ticket.

If you’re traveling in a rental car, be sure that the company you rented from in Belize allows the car to cross into Guatemala. Crystal Auto Rental ( 0800/777-7777 in Belize; www.crystal-belize.com) does.

Beware: It is strongly advised that you do not travel at night. It is a sad fact that armed groups occasionally set up roadblocks along these isolated yet frequently trafficked roads.

By Bus If you’re traveling from Belize City by bus, you can take one of two daily buses. These buses run between Belize City and Santa Elena, not the Tikal ruins. If you’re coming from Belize City, you’ll have to get further transportation to visit Tikal. The buses leave at 9:30am and 2:30pm from right in front of the Marine Terminal in downtown Belize City. The fare is BZ$60 one-way. The trip takes around 5 to 6 hours. The return buses leave Flores/Santa Elena at 5 and 7:30am. Two separate bus lines make this trip run: Línea Dorada ( 502/7926-0070; www.lineadorada.info) and San Juan Travel ( 502/5847-4738). Both can be booked in Belize by Mundo Maya Travels ( 223-0457; mundomayatravels@yahoo.com).

Alternatively, you can take one of the many buses from Belize City (or from San Ignacio) to the Guatemalan border. Buses to San Ignacio leave roughly every half-hour from the main bus station on West Collet Canal Street between 5am and 8pm. Return buses to Belize City leave the main bus station in San Ignacio roughly every half-hour between 4am and 6pm. The fare is BZ$10. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours. Most of the western-bound buses continue beyond San Ignacio to Benque Viejo and the Guatemalan border. Some of these leave you in Benque Viejo, while others go all the way to the border crossing, a little more than 1.6km (1 mile) away. There are numerous taxis at the Benque Viejo bus station that will take you to the border for BZ$8.

On the Belize side, you will have to fill out a departure card, have your passport stamped, and pay the departure tax of BZ$30, plus the BZ$7.50 PACT tax. Just over the bridge lies the Guatemalan border town of Melchor de Mencos. When you pass through Guatemalan immigration, you will be provided with a tourist card good for up to 90 days. Theoretically this card is free. However, border formalities in Guatemala are often open to corruption, with border officials and local touts looking to glean some extra money. Moreover, Guatemalan border formalities change from time to time, and there is a long-running dispute between Guatemala and Belize (Guatemala claims that all of Belize is actually part of Guatemala, dating back to the mid–19th c.), so it always pays to check with the Guatemalan Embassy in your home country if you are certain you will be traveling there. The border crossing can take from 20 minutes to more than an hour, depending on the crowds.

Once you’re finished with the border formalities, it is a simple matter to find onward transportation to Tikal or Flores and Santa Elena. The least expensive means of transport is the local bus; however, none of the local buses goes directly to Tikal. Instead, they head to Flores and Santa Elena, but they will drop you off at Ixlú (El Cruce), where you can flag down one of the many minivans and collective taxis going from Flores and Santa Elena to the ruins. Be forewarned that while local buses are very inexpensive (around Q3–Q8), they can be overcrowded and very slow. They stop almost constantly along the way to pick up and discharge passengers and their cargo. I recommend you take one of these buses only if you’re interested more in the local color and adventure of the trip than in a speedy arrival at the ruins.

A much better bet is to take one of the collective taxis or minivans that leave right from Melchor de Mencos. Most of these wait just outside the border station and leave as soon as they fill up. Some go to Flores and Santa Elena, while others go directly to Tikal. Most charge Q80 to Q160 per person.

Finally, if there are no collective taxis or minivans available, you can hire a taxi that will carry up to six people for between Q400 and Q600.

Tip: If you are only going for the day, try to arrange a round-trip fare with your taxi or minivan driver, with a specific departure time from Tikal. Usually, it’s best to leave Tikal by 4pm, so as to drive during daylight and arrive at the border with plenty of time.

safety in Guatemala

Over the past 50 years, Guatemala has had an ongoing history of political and civil violence and repression. Crime, both petty and violent, is a problem throughout Guatemala. The Guatemalan police and judiciary are underfunded, understaffed, and largely ineffectual. Decades of civil war, genocide, and paramilitary activity, in addition to historic poverty and underdevelopment, have created a dangerous climate where lawlessness is rampant. Foreign nationals—as well as everyday Guatemalans—are the targets of robberies, kidnapping, murders, and rapes. The U.S. State Department strongly cautions visitors to Guatemala and keeps a relatively up-to-date analysis of the situation at http://travel.state.gov.

Luckily, the Petén District, where Tikal is located, is a largely isolated and forgotten section of eastern Guatemala. The most common attacks against tourists visiting Tikal occur on the road between the Belizean border and Flores. Taxis, local buses, and air-conditioned minivans have all been targeted. These highway robberies tend to occur in waves, and are by far the exception and not the norm. In almost all known cases, the attacks are armed but nonviolent robberies. If you plan to visit Tikal for a few days as a side trip from Belize, it is often a good idea to find a hotel safe in Belize that will guard any valuables you do not need with you while in Guatemala.

Still, hundreds of tourists visit Tikal and Flores every day, and the vast majority of them have no problems whatsoever. Be sure to take all necessary precautions. Never travel alone or at night, and stick to the most popular and populous tourist destinations and attractions. If you are driving, stop only for people holding guns; do not try to run blockades. Common wisdom cautions against using the low-fare Guatemalan buses and tour agencies; however, high-end tour groups in fancy air-conditioned microbuses do attract the attention of organized criminal gangs. Some tour groups travel with armed guards. This may or may not increase your sense of security and your actual security, to boot. (As far as I’m concerned, the jury is out on that one.) If you are confronted with any sort of criminal attempt, do not resist, as a simple mugging can easily end up turning into murder.

The Guatemalan Tourist Institute (INGUAT) and National Police have set up a special police force, POLITUR, created to patrol tourist destinations and deal directly with tourists. You will hopefully see them present in most major tourist destinations, including Tikal and Flores. You can also call ASISTUR, a tourist assistance service of INGUAT, by dialing 1500 from any phone in the country.

By Organized Tour Organized day trips leave daily for Tikal from Belize City, San Ignacio, San Pedro, Caye Caulker, and Placencia. Costs for these all-inclusive trips are approximately BZ$200 and BZ$400 by land (from Belize City, or any of the other major tourist destinations in Belize), depending on group size. Budget an additional BZ$100 to BZ$300 per person per day for multiday excursions. In Belize City, call Discovery Expeditions ( 223-0748; www.discoverybelize.com) or S & L Travel and Tours ( 227-7593; www.sltravelbelize.com). In San Ignacio, you can call Pacz Tours ★★ ( 824-2477 or 824-0536; www.pacztours.net) or Yute Expeditions ★★ ( 824-2076; www.inlandbelize.com).

Shameless Plug

If you’re going on to Guatemala for any extended time or travel, you’ll want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Guatemala.

Getting Around

By Taxi or Minivan Minivans and collective taxis leave throughout the day plying the route between Tikal and Santa Elena/Flores. Minivans and collective taxis charge between Q50 and Q60 per person each way. From Santa Elena, you can catch a bus back to the border. A private cab from Tikal to Santa Elena/Flores will run around Q350 to Q450 each way. Between Tikal and El Remate, the fare is about Q150 to Q200.

By Car There are several local car-rental agencies at the airport. Of these, a good choice is Tabarini Rent A Car ( 502/7926-0253; www.tabarini.com). All rent small jeeps and SUVs. Do get a four-wheel-drive vehicle; even though you may never need the traction or off-road ability, the extra clearance will come in handy. Rates run from Q350 to Q450 per day.

Money

The Guatemalan monetary unit is the quetzal. At press time, the exchange rate was 8 quetzales to the U.S. dollar, and 11.63 quetzales to the British pound. If you’re coming from Belize, your best bets for changing dollars into quetzales are at the border or at the numerous banks in Santa Elena and Flores (see “Flores & Santa Elena,” later in this chapter). Most of the hotels and restaurants in Tikal, in fact, will exchange dollars for quetzales, although they may give you a slightly less favorable rate than you would get at a bank.

Orientation

There is no village or town inside Tikal National Park. After having paid your Q150 admission at the entrance booth 18km (11 miles) south of the ruins, you will eventually come to the large central parking area and visitor center. This is where you will find the three hotels and campsite reviewed in “Where to Stay,” later in this chapter, as well as the two museums and a collection of simple restaurants. The ruins themselves are about a 15- to 20-minute walk through the forest from the trail entrance here.

You’ll spot a post office and telegraph office on the left as you arrive at the parking area. You’ll find a public phone in the Stelae Museum. There is no bank or ATM here in Tikal, and most of the little restaurants and gift stands accept only quetzales. Moreover, while some of the hotels here do accept credit cards, the phone connections are spotty, and they sometimes have problems getting the authorizations. It’s best to bring quetzales to pay for your entire stay. Also, be sure to bring plenty of insect repellent with you—the bugs here are rapacious.

Tikal National Park is open daily from 6am to 6pm. If you’d like to stay in the park until 8pm (for sunset and nocturnal wildlife viewing), get your admission ticket stamped at the office behind the Stelae Museum. If you arrive after 3pm, your admission is good for the following day as well. If you are staying multiple days, you must pay the admission fee each day. The best times to visit the ruins are in early morning and late afternoon, which are the least crowded and coolest times of day.

Fast Facts There are no banks, medical facilities, laundromats, or other major services available at Tikal. All of these can be found in Flores and Santa Elena, some 64km (40 miles) away.

A Familiar Site

Tikal provides such a stunning and unique landscape that it was chosen for an exterior shot in George Lucas’s Star Wars, as well as the site of a famous series of Nike commercials.

Exploring Tikal

Tikal, one of the largest Mayan cities ever uncovered and the most spectacular ruins in Guatemala, ranks with Mexico’s Chichén Itzá in pre-Columbian splendor. However, unlike at Chichén Itzá, the ruins of Tikal are set in the middle of a vast jungle through which you must hike from temple to temple. The many miles of trails through the park provide numerous opportunities to spot interesting birds such as toucans and parrots and such wild animals as coati-mundi, spider monkeys, howler monkeys, and deer. Together, the ruins and the abundance of wildlife make a trip to Tikal an absolute must for anyone interested in Mayan history, bird-watching, or wildlife viewing.

Tikal was a massive ceremonial metropolis. So far, archaeologists have mapped about 3,000 constructions, 10,000 earlier foundations beneath surviving structures, 250 stone monuments (steles and altars), and thousands of art objects found in tombs and cached offerings. There is evidence of continuous construction at Tikal from 200 b.c. through the 9th century a.d., with some suggestion of occupation as early as 600 b.c. The Maya reached their zenith in art and architecture during the Classic Period, which began about a.d. 250 and ended abruptly about 900, when for some reason Tikal and all other major Mayan centers were abandoned. Most of the visible structures at Tikal date from the Late Classic Period, from 600 to 900.

No one’s sure just what role Tikal played in the history of the Maya: Was it mostly a ceremonial center for priests, artisans, and the elite? Or was it a city of industry and commerce as well? In the 16 sq. km (6 sq. miles) of Tikal that have been mapped and excavated, only a few of the buildings were domestic structures; most were temples, palaces, ceremonial platforms, and shrines. Workers are excavating the innumerable mounds on the periphery of the mapped area and have been finding modest houses of stone and plaster with thatched roofs. Just how far these settlements extended beyond the ceremonial center and how many people lived within the domain of Tikal is still to be determined. At its height, Tikal may have covered as much as 65 sq. km (25 sq. miles).

Making the Most of Your Visit

Tikal is such an immense site that you really need several days to see it thoroughly. But you can visit many of the greatest temples and palaces in 1 day. To do it properly, as a first-time visitor, you should probably hire a guide. Guides are available at the visitor center and charge around Q80 to Q160 for a half-day tour of the ruins, depending on the size of your group. In addition, most hotels and all tour agencies in the region offer guided tours for a similar price.

A Walking Tour

To orient yourself, begin your tour of Tikal at the visitor center and neighboring Stelae Museum. Here you’ll find some informative exhibits and relics, as well as an impressive relief map of the site. See “The Museums,” below, for more information on the steles.

A full tour of Tikal will require an extensive amount of walking, as much as 9.7km (6 miles). The itinerary described here will take you to most of the major temples and plazas, and can be accomplished in about 3 to 4 hours. If your time is really limited, you should follow the signs and head straight to the Great Plaza. If you have a full day, consider this route:

Walking along the road that goes west from the museum toward the ruins, turn right at the first intersection to get to twin complexes Q and R. Seven of these twin complexes are known at Tikal, but their exact purpose is still a mystery. Each complex has two pyramids facing east and west; at the north is an unroofed enclosure entered by a vaulted doorway and containing a single stele and altar; at the south is a small palace-like structure. Of the two pyramids here, one has been restored and one has been left as it was found, and the latter will give you an idea of just how overgrown and ensconced in the jungle these structures had become.

At the end of the Twin Complexes is a wide road called the Maler Causeway. Turn right (north) onto this causeway to get to Complex P, another twin complex, a 15-minute walk away. Some restoration has been done at Complex P, but the most interesting points are the replicas of a stele (no. 20) and altar (no. 8) in the north enclosure. Look for the beautiful glyphs next to the carving of a warrior on the stele, all in very good condition. The altar shows a captive bound to a carved-stone altar, his hands tied behind his back—a common scene in carvings at Tikal. Both these monuments date from about a.d. 751.

From Complex P, head south on the Maudslay Causeway to Complex N, which is the site of Temple IV, the Temple of the Two-Headed Serpent ★★★. Finished around a.d. 740, Temple IV is the tallest structure in Tikal and is 65m (213 ft.) from the base of its platform to the top. The first glimpse you get of the temple from the Maudslay Causeway is awesome, for the temple has not been restored, and all but the temple proper (the enclosure) and its roof comb are covered in foliage. The stairway is occluded by earth and roots, but there is a system of steep stairways (actually rough-hewn wooden ladders set against the steep sides of the pyramid) to the top of the temple. The view of the setting and layout of Tikal—and all of the Great Plaza—is magnificent. From the platform of the temple, you can see in all directions and get an idea of the extent of the Petén jungle, an ocean of lush greenery. Temple III (Temple of the Great Priest) is in the foreground to the east; temples I and II are farther on at the Great Plaza. To the right of these are the South Acropolis and Temple V.

Temple IV, and all the other temples at Tikal, are built on this plan: A pyramid is built first, and on top of it is built a platform; the temple proper rests on this platform and is composed of one to three rooms, usually long and narrow and not for habitation but rather for priestly rites. Most temples had beautifully carved wooden lintels above the doorways. The one from Temple IV is now in the Völkerkunde Museum in Basel, Switzerland.

From Temple IV, walk east along the Tozzer Causeway to get to the Great Plaza, about a 10-minute walk. Along the way you’ll pass the twin-pyramid Complex N, the Bat Palace, and Temple III. Take a look at the altar and stele in the complex’s northern enclosure—two of the finest monuments at Tikal—and also the altar in front of Temple III, showing the head of a deity resting on a plate. By the way, the crisscross pattern shown here represents a woven mat, a symbol of authority to the Mayas.

The Great Plaza ★★★

Beat the Crowds

Tikal fills up with tour buses most days, with the hours between 10am and 2pm being the busiest period. I prefer visiting the Great Plaza either before or after the main crowds have left. Feel free to reverse the order of this walking tour if it will help you avoid the masses.

Entering the Great Plaza from the Tozzer Causeway, you’ll be struck by the towering stone structure that is Temple II, seen from the back. It measures 38m (125 ft.) tall now, although it is thought to have been 43m (140 ft.) high when the roof comb was intact. Also called the Temple of the Masks, from a large face carved in the roof comb, the temple dates from about a.d. 700. Walk around this temple to enter the plaza proper.

Directly across from Temple II you’ll see Temple I (Temple of the Great Jaguar), the most striking structure in Tikal. Standing 44m (145 ft.) tall, the temple proper has three narrow rooms with high corbeled vaults (the Mayan “arch”) and carved wooden lintels made of zapote wood, which is rot resistant. One of the lintels has been removed for preservation in the Guatemala National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology in Guatemala City. The whole structure is made of limestone, as are most others at Tikal. It was within this pyramid that one of the richest tombs in Tikal was discovered. Believed to be the tomb of Tikal ruler Hasaw Chan K’awil, when archaeologists uncovered it in 1962, they found the former ruler’s skeleton surrounded by some 180 pieces of jade, 90 bone artifacts carved with hieroglyphic inscriptions, numerous pearls, and objects in alabaster and shell. Note: Tourists can no longer scale temples I or III. However, those in need of serious cardio workouts will get their fill climbing some of the other temples.

The North Acropolis (north side of the Great Plaza) is a maze of structures from various periods covering an area of 8.5 hectares (21 acres). Standing today 9m (30 ft.) above the limestone bedrock, it contains vestiges of more than a hundred different constructions dating from 200 b.c. to a.d. 800. At the front-center of the acropolis (at the top of the stairs up from the Great Plaza) is a temple numbered 5D-33. Although much of the 8th-century temple was destroyed during the excavations to get to the Early Classic temple (a.d. 300) underneath, it’s still a fascinating building. Toward the rear of it is a tunnel leading to the stairway of the Early Classic temple, embellished with two 3m-high (10-ft.) plaster polychrome masks of a god—don’t miss these.

Directly across the plaza from the North Acropolis is the Central Acropolis, which covers about 1.6 hectares (4 acres). It’s a maze of courtyards and palaces on several levels, all connected by an intricate system of passageways. Some of the palaces had five floors, connected by exterior stairways, and each floor had as many as nine rooms arranged like a maze.

Before you leave the Great Plaza, be sure to examine some of the 70 beautiful steles and altars right in the plaza. You can see the full development of Mayan art in them, for they date from the Early Classic Period right through to the Late Classic Period. There are three major stylistic groups: the steles with wraparound carving on the front and sides with text on the back; those with a figure carved on the front and text in glyphs on the back; and those with a simple carved figure on the front, text in hieroglyphs on the sides, and a plain back. The oldest stele is no. 29 (now in the Tikal Museum—see “The Museums,” below), dating from a.d. 292; the most recent is no. 11 in the Great Plaza, dating from a.d. 869.

If you head south from Temple II, you will come to the area known as El Mundo Perdido (The Lost World). This plaza contains the Great Pyramid, which stands 35m (115 ft.) high and is the oldest excavated building in Tikal. This pyramid is one of the most popular spots for watching the sunset. If you’ve timed it right, you might be able to hang out here and watch the show; otherwise, make a mental note to get your bearings and come back later, if possible. Directly east of the Great Pyramid is the Plaza of the Seven Temples, which dates to the Late Classic Period. Bordering this plaza on the east side is an unexcavated pyramid, and behind this is Temple V. This entire area is known as the South Acropolis. You can climb Temple V, but be forewarned, the climb, both up and down a very steep and rather rickety wooden stairway, is somewhat harrowing. The view from above is beautiful. However, the steep pitch of the pyramid’s original stairway is almost as scary as the climb.

If you cross through the South Acropolis to the east and then turn north in the general direction of the Great Plaza, you will come to the East Plaza. From here you can walk southeast on the Mendez Causeway to Temple VI (Temple of the Inscriptions), which contains a nearly illegible line of hieroglyphics that are the most extensive in Tikal. It’s worth coming out this way just for the chance to spot some wild animals, which seem to be fairly common in this remote corner of the park.

Sunrise, sunset

Tikal is a magical and mystical place. Many claim that this magic and mystique is only heightened around sunrise and sunset. Sunsets are easier to catch and a more dependable show. Sunrises tend to be more a case of the sun eventually burning through the morning mist than of any impressive orb emerging. However, afternoons can often be clear, especially during the dry season, allowing for excellent sunset viewing from the tops of the main temples here. In either case, much of the attraction can be found all around you, as the bird and animal life of the jungle are much more active around sunrise and sunset. If you’re staying right at the ruins, your chances are better of catching either or both of these occasions.

If you’re not staying inside the national park, minivans and collective taxis leave Flores and El Remate early enough to get you to the Tikal entrance gate at 6am when it opens. This will generally enable you to get to the top of one of the main temples by 6:30am, which is usually still early enough to catch the sun burning through the mist just over the rainforest canopy.

If you plan on staying for sunset, be absolutely positive that your return transportation will wait for you. The park officially closes at 6pm. Depending on the season, the sun will set below the treetops anywhere between 5 and 6pm, allowing just enough time to watch the spectacle and get out of the park in time.

Tip: If you’re planning on catching either the sunrise or the sunset, it’s a very good idea to bring along a flashlight, just in case.

The Museums

The most formal museum here has been officially christened the Sylvanus G. Morely Museum, but is also known as the Tikal or Ceramic Museum. This museum contains a good collection of pottery, mosaic masks, incense burners, etched bone, and steles that are chronologically displayed—beginning with Pre-Classic objects on up to Late Classic pieces. Of note are the delicate 7.6 to 13cm (3- to 5-in.) mosaic masks made of jade, turquoise, shell, and stucco. There is a beautiful cylindrical jar from about a.d. 700 depicting a male and female seated in a typical Mayan pose. The drawing is of fine quality, and the slip colors are red, brown, and black. Also on exhibit are a number of jade pendants, beads, and earplugs, as well as the famous stele no. 31, which has all four sides carved. On the two sides are spear throwers, each wearing a large feathered headdress and carrying a shield in his left hand; on the front is a complicated carving of an individual carrying a head in his left arm and a chair in his right. It is considered one of the finest stele examples from the Early Classic period. Another fine attraction here is the reconstruction of the tomb of Hasaw Chan K’awil, who was also known as Ah Cacao, or “Lord Chocolate.” The museum is located between the Jungle Lodge and the Jaguar Inn.

The second museum is known as the Lithic or Stelae Museum and is in the large visitor center, which is on your left as you arrive at the parking area coming from Flores. This spacious display area contains a superb collection of steles from around the ruins. Just outside the front door of the museum is the scaled relief map (mentioned above) that will give you an excellent perspective on the relationships among the different ruins here at Tikal. Both museums are open daily from 9am to 5pm. A Q80 admission will get you into both.

Tip: Visit the museums only if you have extra time or a very specific interest in either the steles or the ceramic works. The ruins themselves are by far a much more interesting attraction.

seeing the forest from the Trees

Just outside the entrance to Tikal National Park is the Canopy Tour Tikal ( 502/7926-4270; www.canopytikal.com). A series of treetop platforms is connected by heavy wire cables, allowing more adventurous travelers to zip from platform to platform via a harness-and-pulley system. Canopy Tour Tikal actually has two separate zipline tours to choose from: a somewhat slower tour for wary souls and a faster system for adrenaline junkies. They also have a series of trails and hanging suspension bridges through the thick rain forest here. This attraction is open daily from 7am to 5pm, and the cost is Q240 per person, including shuttle transportation to or from Tikal or El Remate. For transport to and from Santa Elena or Flores, add on an extra Q40.

Where to Stay

There are only three hotels and a campground at the little Tikal village near the entrance to the ruins. Unless you have more than 2 days to spend exploring the region, I personally recommend staying near the ruins at least 1 night, as it allows you to enter early and stay late. It also allows you to avoid the Great Plaza and North Acropolis during the peak period of the day, when they are swarmed with day-trippers.

Although the ruins are officially open from 6am to 6pm, those staying at the site can usually finagle their way in even earlier. Better yet, those staying at the site can have their admission ticket stamped, allowing them to stay inside the park until 8pm. When the moon is full or close to full, that’s enough time to catch both the sunset and the moonrise from the top of one of the temples here.

Note: Rooms are often difficult to get at the park, and making reservations is essential during the high season. However, communication with the hotels here is difficult and undependable, and many reserve all of their high-season bookings for groups and prepaid package tours. Overbooking on behalf of these hotels is also not uncommon. Demand is high, and rooms are very limited. If you’re going for just a couple of nights, go with an organized tour to save yourself some hassle; if you plan to spend more time in the area or don’t mind spending a night in Flores or Santa Elena if necessary, you can probably make your arrangements in Tikal.

Note: All of the hotels below get their electricity from generators, and some run these generators only for limited periods throughout the day. None has air-conditioning, and even though most have fans, these fans will do you little good on a hot night when the generator isn’t running.

Expensive

Jungle Lodge Also known as Posada de la Selva, this is the biggest and most upscale hotel right at the park. However, that’s not saying much. At times there can be a cattle-car feel to the operation, and service can be lax. The majority of the rooms are housed in duplex bungalows, with high ceilings, white-tile floors, two double beds with mosquito netting, and a ceiling fan. Each has its own little porch with a couple of chairs, which are great places to sit and read a book or do some bird-watching. The bungalows are connected by stone paths through lush gardens. Two junior suites feature king-size beds, a large Jacuzzi-style tub (but without jets), and private patios in both the front and back of the room. There are also 12 older rooms with polished cement floors and shared bathroom facilities.

Tikal village, Petén. 502/7861-0447 or 502/2476-8775. Fax 502/2476-0294. www.junglelodgetikal.com. 50 units (40 with private bathroom). Q1,200 bungalow; Q320 double with shared bathroom. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small outdoor pool. In room: No phone.

Tikal Inn Set back amid the trees, the Tikal Inn is the farthest hotel from the entrance to the ruins as you walk down the old airstrip. The best rooms here are the individual bungalows, which feature high thatch roofs, tile floors, local furniture and textiles, and rustic wood trim. The smaller rooms in the main building have cement floors. All of the rooms are airy and cool, but feel pretty Spartan. As at the Jungle Lodge, there’s a refreshing pool here, and these folks even have a small Internet cafe. Meals are served family-style, and the food is a definite step up from the fare served at the comedores (restaurants) near the campground.

Tikal village, Petén. 502/7861-2444 or /fax 502/7861-2445. www.tikalinn.com. 32 units. Q560–Q640 double. Rate includes breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small outdoor pool. In room: No phone.

Inexpensive

Jaguar Inn This is the most humble and economical of the hotels right at the park. Still, the rooms are all quite clean, spacious, and well-kept. Most come with two queen beds and a small veranda strung with a hammock. The best rooms are a couple of large second-floor affairs. However, I also like bungalow no. 10, with its king-size bed and private veranda. If you’re on a tight budget, you can also camp here, or rent one of their hammocks with mosquito netting and a locker for Q40 per person. These folks offer electricity 24 hours per day.

Tikal village, Petén. 502/7926-0002 reservations in Santa Elena, or 502/7783-3647 at the lodge. Fax 502/7926-2413. www.jaguartikal.com. 14 units. Q488 double. AE, MC, V (5% surcharge). Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Camping

Just off the main parking lot at the site is a nice lawn with some trees for shade, marked and designated as the camping area. You can also set up your tent on some concrete pads, under an open-air thatch palapa roof. The camping area has simple shared shower and toilet facilities, and a communal cooking area. The campground (no phone) charges Q80 for the privilege of putting up a tent and using the facilities. You can also rent hammocks and pitch them under open-air palapas for an additional Q40.

Tip: If you plan on sleeping in a hammock, or even taking an afternoon siesta, you should really try to get a mosquito net that fits over the hammock. Most of the places that rent and sell hammocks in this area have these nets.

Where to Dine

Most folks who stay near the ruins take all their meals at their hotel. If you’re looking for variety or staying at the campsite, there are several little comedores between the main camping area and parking lot and the gate at the beginning of the road to Flores. As you arrive at Tikal from Flores, you’ll see them on the right side; Comedor Imperio Maya, Comedor La Jungla, and Comedor Tikal are the best of the bunch. All are rustic and pleasant, and all serve hefty plates of fairly tasty food at low prices. You can get a large serving of roast chicken with rice, beans, and fresh tortillas, along with a drink, for around Q40.

Within the area of the ruins, you’ll find picnic tables beneath shelters and itinerant soft-drink peddlers, but no snack stands. If you want to spend all day at the ruins without having to walk back to the parking area for lunch, take sandwiches. Most of the hotels here and in Flores, as well as the comedores, will make you a bag lunch to take into the park.

Tikal After Dark

Aside from hanging around at your hotel bar or at one of the simple comedores, or swinging in a hammock at the campsite, the best nighttime activity here is to visit the ruins by moonlight. Those staying near the entrance to the ruins can have their admission ticket validated to allow them to roam the park until 8pm, and in some cases even later, depending on the disposition of the guards. If the moon is waxing, full, or just beyond full, you’re in for a real treat. Tip: Before venturing into the park at night, be sure to ask around as to the current level of safety inside the park after dark.

El Remate ★★

32km (20 miles) E of Flores; 32km (20 miles) S of Tikal; 60km (37 miles) W of Melchor de Mencos

El Remate is a small village on the eastern shores of Lake Petén Itzá that is a popular spot in which to stay while visiting Tikal. It’s located about midway between Flores and Tikal, which means that staying here cuts travel time between your hotel and the ruins. El Remate is much more tranquil and pristine than Flores or Santa Elena. Currently, a handful of budget lodgings can be found in the tiny village here, while more upscale options can be found on the shores of the lake heading north out of the village.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Minivan Scheduled and independent minivans ply the route between Santa Elena/Flores and Tikal throughout the day. Any of these will drop you off in El Remate. For more information on these, see “Getting Around” on and below. Fares from Flores to El Remate run around Q20 and Q40 per person each way.

By Car El Remate is located about 1.6km (1 mile) north of Ixlú (El Cruce). The road is paved and in good shape all the way from the Belize-Guatemala border 60km (37 miles) away.

Getting Around

El Remate is a tiny village, and you can easily walk anywhere in town. Some of the hotels listed below are located 1.6km (1 mile) or so north of the village, on the road that circles Lake Petén Itzá. If you’re in El Remate, you’ll most likely want to go to Tikal, visit Santa Elena and Flores, or explore the region.

By Taxi Taxis charge between Q150 and Q200 for the one-way trip between El Remate and Tikal, and around Q100 to Q150 for the trip between El Remate and Santa Elena and Flores. The higher rates are for a minivan that can hold anywhere from six to eight passengers. A taxi is your best option if you decide to explore the area around the lake. There are often taxis hanging around the small village. If not, your hotel can call one for you. Be sure to have your hotel set a fair price, or be prepared to bargain, as the first price you are quoted is almost assuredly above the going rate and subject to some negotiation.

By Minivan If you don’t have a car, the best way to get around is by minivan. Scheduled and unscheduled minivans ply the route between Flores and Tikal throughout the day. All of these pass through El Remate, dropping off and picking up passengers. You can get a minivan at almost any hotel in El Remate, or walk a few hundred yards out to the main road to Tikal and flag one down. The ride takes about a half-hour to either Tikal or Flores, and the one-way fare is from Q20 to Q40 per person.

What to See & Do

The village of El Remate itself is very small and provincial, with little of interest to tourists. Most people use El Remate as a base for explorations of the ruins at Tikal. However, as small lodges and isolated resorts start to pop up here, many tour and activity options will follow.

Just west of El Remate is the Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, a small nature reserve with some trails and good wildlife-viewing opportunities. More than 180 species of birds have been spotted here. A couple of loop trails climb uphill from the entrance and at various points offer excellent views of the lake. I recommend visiting this park with a guide, as a spate of robberies and attacks against tourists closed it for a period several years ago. The reserve is open daily from 8am to 4pm, and admission is Q40.

One of the most popular activities in El Remate is renting a canoe or kayak for paddling around on the lake. Most of the hotels in town either rent kayaks or canoes, or can arrange one for you. Rates run around Q35 per hour, or around Q120 per day.

Similarly, most of the hotels in town either rent or provide mountain bikes for their guests, or can arrange for their rental. The dirt road that circles Lake Petén Itzá is excellent for a mountain-bike ride. Rates are about Q60 per day.

Finally, the village of El Remate is gaining some local renown for its woodcarving. You’ll see several roadside stands set up on the route between Ixlú and El Remate, and onward to Tikal. If you ask around El Remate, you might even be able to visit one or more of the artisans.

Watch Out for Crocs

If you’re out on the lake during the daytime, scan the shoreline northwest of El Remate and try to pick out the “Sleeping Crocodile,” a silhouette formed by the shape of the forested hills as they descend toward the lake. If you can’t pick it out, ask a local for help.

Where to Stay & Dine

Most folks take their meals at their hotels. You’ll find some simple comedores in the center of the village. The best of these is probably El Muelle ( 502/5514-9785; www.elmuellehotel.com), which has a great view of the lake, as well as a swimming pool, which you can use if you eat here. If you’re looking for something different, try the restaurant at the Hotel Mon Ami ( 502/7928-8413; www.hotelmonami.com), which features a mix of Guatemalan, French, and Italian fare.

Very Expensive

La Lancha Resort ★★ This is filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola’s Guatemalan piece of his minihotel chain in the Mundo Maya. The main lodge has a commanding view of the lake and features a soaring, open-air, A-frame thatch roof oriented toward the view. Below the lodge is a kidney-shaped pool. A steep trail leads down to the shore of the lake, where you’ll find a swimming area and some canoes and kayaks. The rooms are all duplex bungalows. The “lake view” units are quite spacious, while the “jungle view” rooms are more compact. All are tastefully and artistically decorated and very comfortable. All feature a shared wooden veranda, and you can probably figure out the view from the room names. Plans here include the addition of some independent suites with private plunge pools.

Lago Petén Itzá, Petén. 800/746-3743 in the U.S., or /fax 502/7928-8331 in Guatemala. www.lalanchavillage.com. 10 units. Q1,680–Q2,240 double. Rates lower in the off season; higher during peak periods. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bike rental; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, minifridge, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Hotel Gringo Perdido Three kilometers (1 3/4 miles) north of El Remate, on the dirt road that circles Lake Petén Itzá, you’ll find one of Guatemala’s original jungle lodges. This little offbeat paradise is arranged along the lakeshore, with shady rustic hillside gardens, a little restaurant, a quiet camping area, and rooms ranging from a rustic dormitory to some almost plush private bungalows. The whole thing seems to blend into and get swallowed up by the rainforest. The Gringo Perdido, which means “the lost American,” offers good swimming in the lake, 3.2km (2 miles) of nature trails, and tranquillity. This little lodge borders the Biotopo Cerro Cahuí.

3.2km (2 miles) west of El Remate, Petén. 502/2334-2305 or 502/4899-4615. http://gringo-perdido.blogspot.com. 13 units (2 with shared bathroom). Q560 double with shared bathroom; Q720 double with private bathroom. Rates include breakfast and dinner. Q40 per person to camp, with meals extra. V only (with 8% surcharge). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Inexpensive

In addition to the places listed below, a few very inexpensive options, catering to the backpacker crowd, are right in El Remate. I recommend simply walking around to see which one best suits your fancy and budget. One good option is Hotel Mon Ami ( 502/7928-8413; www.hotelmonami.com).

La Casa de Don David Hotel This hotel’s rooms are located in a series of buildings arrayed around a large and lush garden area. All are clean and simple. There’s an open-air octagonal hammock hut for reading and resting, and you can catch a glimpse of Lake Petén from here. Most of the rooms have air-conditioning, and you’ll pay slightly more for these. My favorite room is no. 13, which is a corner unit with a private hammock on its front porch. The hotel offers bicycles free for guest use. David Kuhn and his wife, Rosita, have lived in this area for more than 30 years, and they are a wealth of information and advice. David was the original gringo perdido of the nearby nature lodge (see above), but left there to open this delightful little place.

El Remate, Petén. 502/7928-8469 or 502/5306-2190. www.lacasadedondavid.com. 15 units. Q320–Q416 double. Rates include 1 meal (breakfast, lunch, or dinner). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

La Mansión del Pájaro Serpiente ★ Set off the main road to Tikal, on a hillside overlooking the lake, this place has both standard and deluxe bungalows, beautiful gardens, and a friendly atmosphere. The bungalows feature beautiful stone and woodworking details, with local textile and crafts filling out the decor. The deluxe rooms feature televisions and air-conditioning. Several rooms are quite large and should be classified as junior suites, as they also have a separate sitting area just off the bedroom. The “honeymoon suite” comes with its own plunge pool and is high up the hill, with a great view. The midsize free-form pool is set amid lush gardens, and almost feels like a natural pond in the jungle. The open-air restaurant has a great view of the lake and specializes in local cuisine. The owners raise peacocks, and there are always several wandering around the grounds.

El Remate, Petén. /fax 502/7926-8498 or 502/5702-9434. 11 units. Q360 double; Q440 deluxe double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool. In room: No phone.

El Remate After Dark

El Remate is a quiet village. Most visitors head to the small bar at their hotel or hostel to chat with fellow travelers, or they take tours. One popular tour offered at night involves journeying to the lake to see crocodiles. This 2-hour tour involves a ride in a small motor launch with a high-powered flashlight or headlamp. The guide will scan the shore and inlets for the red reflection of the crocodiles’ eyes. If you’re lucky, they won’t submerge as you slowly approach. All of the hotels in town can arrange this tour. The cost is between Q150 and Q240.

Flores & Santa Elena ★

64km (40 miles) SW of Tikal; 135km (84 miles) NW of the Belizean border; 451km (280 miles) NE of Guatemala City

Flores & Santa Elena

Since accommodations in Tikal are limited, most travelers either choose to (or must) overnight in the sister cities of Flores and Santa Elena. Still, this is not necessarily such a bad thing. Flores itself is a picturesque little town built on an island in the middle of Lake Petén Itzá. A narrow causeway connects Flores to Santa Elena. There’s a lot more to do and see in Flores and Santa Elena than there is closer to Tikal, and a far wider range of hotels and restaurants to choose from.

Seen from the air, Flores appears almost perfectly round. This quiet town, with its colonial-style buildings and cobblestone streets, is one of the most fascinating in Guatemala. Though most people spend time here only en route to or from the Tikal ruins, Flores is well worth exploring for a day or two. A walk around the circumference of the island presents a sort of Venetian experience. Buildings come right down to the water’s edge. In fact, since the lake’s water level has risen over the years, some of the outlying streets and alleys are flooded. Dugout canoes, kayaks, and motor launches sit at makeshift docks all around the circumference of the island.

Santa Elena, Flores’s mainland counterpart, on the other hand, is a ramshackle, modern boomtown with little at all to recommend it. However, Santa Elena is where you’ll find the airport, the bus stations, a host of hotels, and a good view of Flores. Just to the west of Santa Elena is the town of San Benito, a rough-and-tumble area with little appeal to visitors. The name Flores is often used as a bucket term encompassing the island of Flores itself, along with Santa Elena and San Benito.

Flores is the unofficial capital of the Petén region of Guatemala. El Petén has always been a remote region, and it was here, on the banks of Lake Petén Itzá, that the Itzá people, descendents of the Mayas, resisted Spanish conquest until the end of the 17th century. Hernán Cortés had visited the Itzá city of Tayasal, which once stood on the far side of the lake, in 1525 but had not tried to conquer the Itzás, who had a reputation for being fierce warriors. However, in 1697, the Spanish finally conquered the Itzás, and Tayasal became the last Indian city to fall under Spanish rule. Two years after taking Tayasal, the Spanish moved to Flores, an island that could easily be defended. They renamed this island Nuestra Señora de los Remedios y San Pablo de los Itzaes and between 1700 and 1701 built a fort here. In 1831, the island was once again renamed, this time being given the name Flores in honor of a Guatemalan patriot.

Horsing Around

One of the most curious pieces of local history revolves around a sick horse that was left in Tayasal by Hernán Cortés when he passed through the area. The Itzás had never seen horses before, and as soon as Cortés left, they began worshiping it. When the horse died, a stone statue of it was made, and the worship continued until Spanish missionaries arrived in Tayasal 100 years later. The missionaries, appalled by this idolatry, proceeded to pitch the blasphemous statue into the lake. To this day the legendary horse statue has never been discovered, though searches continue to be launched from time to time.

Essentials

Getting There & Departing

By Plane See “By Plane” under “Essentials” in “Tikal,” earlier in this chapter.

By Car To get here from Belize, see “By Car” under “Essentials” earlier in this chapter.

The road between Tikal and Flores is a good, paved road, and the trip takes around an hour by car. To get to either of the sister towns from Tikal, head south out of the ruins and turn right at Ixlú (El Cruce). Continue on past the airport. You will come to Santa Elena first. Stay on the main avenue into town and head toward the lake, where you will find the causeway over to Flores.

By Bus For information on getting to Flores and Santa Elena by bus from Belize, see “By Bus” under “Essentials” earlier in this chapter. See “Getting Around,” below, for details on getting from Santa Elena and Flores to the ruins.

There are several companies operating first-class buses to and from Guatemala City. ADN ( 502/2251-0610 in Guatemala City, or 7924-8131 in Santa Elena; www.adnautobusesdelnorte.com) and Línea Dorada ( 502/2232-5506 in Guatemala City, or 7926-0070 in Santa Elena; www. lineadorada.info) both operate out of the main bus terminal in Santa Elena, located about 8 blocks south of downtown along 6a Avenida. The trip to Guatemala City takes about 8 to 10 hours, and first-class fares run around Q190 to Q280.

Getting Around

If you’re in Santa Elena or Flores, you’ll most likely want to go to Tikal or explore the region around Lake Petén.

By Minivan If you don’t have a car, the best way to get around this area is by minivan. Minivans from Flores and Santa Elena to Tikal leave roughly every hour between 5 and 10am, and less frequently thereafter. These minivans leave from Tikal for the return trip roughly every hour from noon to 6pm. Every hotel in Flores and Santa Elena can arrange a minivan pickup for you. The trip usually takes an hour and costs Q50 to Q60 per person each way. You can buy a round-trip fare at a slight savings; however, this commits you to a specific minivan company, and I’ve found I prefer paying a little extra to have more flexibility in grabbing my return ride when I’m ready to leave.

By Taxi Taxis charge between Q350 and Q450 for the one-way trip between Flores or Santa Elena and Tikal. Between Flores or Santa Elena and El Remate, the fare is around Q100 to Q150. The higher rate is for a minivan that can hold anywhere from six to eight passengers. A taxi is your best option if you decide to explore the area around the lake. Be sure to bargain, as the first price you are quoted is almost certainly above the going rate and subject to some negotiation.

By Car If you have your own car, the road between Santa Elena and Flores and Tikal is paved, well-marked, and heavily traveled. It’s about 32km (20 miles) from Flores to Ixlú (El Cruce), and another 32km on to the park and ruins of Tikal.

For information on renting a car, see “Getting Around” earlier in this chapter.

By Bus Very inexpensive local bus service connects Flores and Santa Elena to Tikal and several neighboring communities. However, this service is infrequent, slow, and often uncomfortably overcrowded. Línea Dorada (see above) has three daily buses from Santa Elena to Tikal leaving at 5 and 8:30am and at 3:30pm. The return buses leave Tikal at 2 and 5pm. Ask at your hotel or around town for current schedules, as they change periodically. The trip takes 2 hours; the one-way fare is Q50.

Orientation

The town primarily known as Flores actually consists of three smaller towns that have merged. Flores proper sits on a small island out in Lake Petén Itzá, and is connected to the mainland by a long causeway. On the mainland are Santa Elena (nearest the airport) and San Benito (closer to the bus terminal and market). Whether you arrive by air or by bus from Guatemala City or Belize, you will come into town from the east. The road in from the airport leads straight through Santa Elena to the market and bus terminal, while the causeway to Flores is a turn to the right in the middle of Santa Elena. While there are a host of budget lodgings in San Benito, especially around the bus terminal, I strongly advise most travelers to stick to Santa Elena and Flores proper.

Fast Facts You’ll find numerous banks in downtown Flores and Santa Elena. Most have ATMs, and many of these will work with your debit or credit card. Check with your home bank and the PLUS or Cirrus systems in advance to confirm. All will exchange money. Most of the hotels and restaurants in Flores and Santa Elena will also exchange dollars for quetzales, although they may give you a slightly less favorable rate than you would get at a bank.

The Flores post office is on the Avenida Barrios, 1 block south of the Parque Central, or Central Park, which is in front of the church. Santa Elena’s post office is on Calle 4 and Avenida 7. Both are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. To contact the local police, dial 502/7926-1365.

There is an information booth run by the Guatemalan Tourist Board, Inguat ( 502/7926-0533; www.visitguatemala.com), at the Flores airport, and another one in downtown Flores ( 502/7867-5334) on Avenida Flores, on the north side of the Central Park. Both can help provide basic maps to the region and ruins, as well as brochures for local hotels and tour agencies.

What to See & Do

Flores is a wonderful town to explore by walking. The whole island is only about 5 blocks wide in any direction. At the center is a small central park or plaza, anchored by the town’s Catholic church. Be sure to take a peek inside to check out the beautiful stained-glass windows. After first exploring the island on foot, you should have a look at the island from the perspective of a boat.

One of the most popular things to do in Flores is take a tour of the lake ★. You will be inundated with offers for boat tours. Ask at your hotel or one of the local tour agencies, or talk to the numerous freelancers approaching you on the street. Be sure to inspect the craft beforehand, if possible, and make sure you feel comfortable with its lake-worthiness. Also, make sure your guide is bilingual. These tours last anywhere from 1 to 3 hours, and usually include stops at La Guitarra Island (Guitar Island), which features a picnic and swimming area, as well as at the mostly unexcavated ruins of Tayasal. Here, be sure to climb El Mirador ★, a lakeside pyramid that offers a fabulous view of Flores. Many of these tours also stop at the small Petencito Zoo and ARCAS (www.arcasguatemala.com), a conservation organization and animal rehabilitation center that has some interpretive trails and displays of rescued animals either in recuperation or unable to be released. These tours cost between Q80 and Q160 per person, depending on the length of the tour and the size of your group. Don’t be afraid to bargain. Entrance to the zoo is an extra Q20.

You can also explore the lake on your own in a kayak or canoe. These are also rented all around Flores. Again, ask at your hotel or at one of the local tour agencies. Rates for kayaks and canoes run around Q20 per hour. Be careful paddling around the lake; when the winds pick up, especially in the afternoons, it can get quite choppy and challenging.

If you’re a spelunker, you might want to explore Aktun Kan (Cave of the Serpent), a large cavern just outside of Santa Elena. The cave takes its name from a legend about a giant snake living there. But don’t worry, it’s only a legend. Yet another legend has it that this cave is connected to a cave beneath the church on Flores. To reach the cave, either walk south out of Santa Elena on the road that crosses the causeway from Flores, or ask a taxi to take you out there. The fare should be around Q15 round-trip. Although there are lights in the cave (admission Q15), be sure to bring a flashlight for a little extra illumination.

A host of local tour operators here can arrange any of the tours listed above, as well as guided tours to Tikal and the ruins listed below. The best of these are Martsam Travel ★★ ( 866/832-2776 in the U.S. and Canada, or 502/7867-5093 in Guatemala; www.martsam.com) and San Juan Travel ( 502/5847-4738).

Yaxhá, El Ceibal & Other Nearby Ruins

If your life’s passion is Mayan ruins or you simply crave more adventure than you have had so far on your visit to El Petén, you should think about visiting some of the more remote ruins of this region. In addition to exploring seldom-visited Mayan ruins, you’ll be traveling through uninhabited jungles where you’ll likely encounter a great deal of wildlife, which might include coati-mundi, howler and spider monkeys, anteaters, tapirs, and possibly even jaguars.

Thanks to the publicity and infrastructure bestowed upon this site by the TV show Survivor: Guatemala, Yaxhá ★★ is now one of the prime archaeological sites to visit in Guatemala. In fact, this is the third-largest Mayan ceremonial city in Guatemala—behind Tikal and El Mirador. Be sure to climb Temple 216 ★★★, located in the East Acropolis. This is the tallest structure here, and provides excellent views of lakes Yaxhá and Sacnab, as well as the surrounding rainforests. The sunsets here rival those in Tikal. Yaxhá is one of the few Mayan cities to retain its traditional Mayan name, which translates as “green waters.” You can combine a visit to Yaxhá with a trip to the ruins of Topoxté, which are located on a small island in Lake Yaxhá. This small yet intriguing site is thought to have been a residential city for local elites. However, it was also a fortified city where Mayan warriors put up a valiant defense against Spanish forces. Note: You’ll probably be warned, and see the signs, but just in case, do not swim in Lake Yaxhá, as it is home to a robust population of crocodiles. Many organized tours here also include a stop at the nearby minor ruins of Nakum, which are currently being excavated. However, this makes for a long day. The turnoff for the 11km (7-mile) dirt road into the site is located about 32km (20 miles) east of Ixlú, or El Cruce. The Q80 admission grants you access to Yaxhá, Topoxté, and Nakum. If you want to stay at Yaxhá, camping is allowed at a well-tended campsite down by the lakeshore.

Another popular site is El Ceibal ★, which offers one of the most scenic routes along the way. To reach El Ceibal, you first head the 64km (40 miles) from Flores to Sayaxché, which is a good-size town for El Petén (it even has a few basic hotels). From Sayaxché, you must hire a boat to carry you 18km (11 miles) up the Río de la Pasión. El Ceibal is a Late Classic–era ruin known for having the only circular temple in all of El Petén. There are also several well-preserved steles arranged around one small temple structure on the central plaza, as well as a ball court. Many of the designs at El Ceibal indicate that the city had extensive contact with cities in the Yucatán, but whether this contact was due to trade or to warfare is unclear. Your best bet for visiting El Ceibal is to book the excursion with one of the tour agencies in Flores or Santa Elena. Full-day trips run around Q600 to Q800. Overnight trips can also be arranged, combining a visit to El Ceibal with even more obscure Mayan sites such as Aguateca and Petexbatún. If you get to Sayaxché on your own, look for Viajes Don Pedro ( 502/7928-6109). These folks run regular boats to El Ceibal and charge around Q500 per person round-trip. However, if you have a group, be sure to try to negotiate a flat rate for the boat, which should carry anywhere from four to eight people. If you want to stay in this area, check out Chiminos Island Lodge ★ ( 502/2335-3506; www.chiminosisland.com), which has six rustic yet luxurious cabins in the rainforest on a small island in the waters of the Petexbatún Lagoon.

Uaxactún (pronounced “Wah-shahk-toon”) is another Mayan ceremonial center located 24km (15 miles) north of Tikal. Though many of the pyramids and temples here have been uncovered, they have not been restored nearly as extensively as those at Tikal. One of the most interesting finds at Uaxactún is what is believed to be the oldest-known astrological observatory yet discovered in the Mayan world. In Group E, on the eastern side of these ruins, you can watch a sunrise from the observatory temple that lines up precisely with other temples on the equinoxes and solstices. Your best bet for visiting Uaxactún is to book the excursion with one of the tour agencies in Flores or Santa Elena. Full-day trips cost about Q600 to Q800 and can be combined with a stop at Tikal, although I think that’s trying to cram too much into a single day. If you have your own four-wheel-drive vehicle, you can drive here yourself. The ruins at Uaxactún are open daily from 6am to 6pm, and no admission is charged. However, you must reach it by passing through Tikal National Park, and so you must pay the Tikal entrance fee of Q150. Moreover, be forewarned that the dirt road between Tikal and Uaxactún is sometimes not passable during the rainy season. Be sure to ask locally about current conditions before heading off.

Finally, truly adventurous travelers can book a multiday jungle trek to El Mirador ★★, the largest Mayan ceremonial city in Guatemala. Barely excavated, El Mirador features the tallest pyramidal structure in the known Mayan world, La Danta, which reaches some 79m (260 ft.) in height. The trip here involves at least 5 days of hiking and jungle camping. Martsam Travel ★★ ( 866/832-2776 in the U.S. and Canada, or 502/7867-5093 in Guatemala; www.martsam.com) is the best operator to contact for one of these trips.

Studying Spanish

Eco Escuela de Español ★ ( 502/5940-1235; www.ecoescuelaespanol.org) runs a community-based language school program in the small village of San Andrés, on the shore of Lake Petén Itzá. The program costs just Q1,200 per week, including lodging and three meals daily with a local family, as well as 4 hours of daily class time, usually one-on-one. The setting allows for intensive language instruction, as well as many chances to really interact with the local culture and natural surroundings.

If you want to stick closer to the action in town, check in with the Dos Mundos Spanish Academy ( 502/5830-2060; www.flores-spanish.com), which offers a wide range of course and accommodations options.

Where to Stay

Expensive

Hotel Villa Maya ★ Hotel Villa Maya is located about 5 minutes from the airport, on the shores of Lake Petén Itzá, but away from the twin cities and toward Tikal. The setting and surrounding forests are lovely. Peace and quiet, if that’s what you’re looking for, are an added bonus, on top of the slightly reduced travel time to the ruins. However, if you want access to the restaurants and shops in Flores, you’ll need either your own car or a taxi. Most of the rooms are found in a series of two-story buildings, set on the edge of the lake. Local hardwoods are used generously to trim detail and furnish the place. The rooms are simple, spacious, and clean, and each comes with a small triangular balcony overlooking the lake. The hotel also has a pool with a cascading waterfall, as well as a wonderful dock and deck area over the lake.

15 min. from Santa Elena Internacional Airport on Lake Petenchel, 4km (2 1/2 miles) north of the well-marked turnoff on the road from Santa Elena to Tikal. 502/2223-5000 reservations in Guatemala City, or 5410-1592 at the hotel. Fax 502/2334-8134. www.villasdeguatemala.com. 56 units. Q1,000 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; Jacuzzi; pool; room service; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, minibar.

Moderate

Hotel Del Patio This hotel’s central courtyard, with its tall fountain flowing into a cloverleaf pool, is classic colonial Guatemala. The rooms are simple, clean, and comfortable, although the decor is definitely dated, and you can find better deals around town. I’d opt for a second-floor unit, just so you can admire the courtyard from above as you enter and exit your room. A midsize kidney-shaped pool and tiny gym, as well as a good international restaurant, round out the amenities.

Calle 8 and Av. 2, Santa Elena, Petén. 502/7926-0104 or 502/7926-1229. Fax 502/7926-3030. www.caminoreal.com.gt. 21 units. 488 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small gym; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV.

Hotel Petén Espléndido This modern upscale hotel is located in Santa Elena just off the causeway on the shore of Lake Petén Itzá, with a great view of Flores. The rooms feature contemporary decor and more modern amenities than you’ll find anywhere else in town. The bathrooms are even equipped with telephones, and four rooms are truly fitted out for travelers with disabilities. The best rooms are the second-floor rooms with balconies directly fronting the lake. If you don’t get one of these, the hotel’s waterfront restaurant has a great view and serves good international and local cuisine. There’s a relaxing and refreshing pool area with a separate Jacuzzi. This place offers a free airport shuttle, as well as free paddle boats for use on the lake, and has a helpful tour desk and concierge.

1a Calle 5-01, Zona 1, Santa Elena, Flores, Petén. 502/2360-8140 reservations number in Guatemala City, or 502/7926-0880 at the hotel. Fax 502/7926-0866. www.petenesplendido.com. 62 units. Q720–Q1,200 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

La Casona del Lago ★★ This is the most luxurious hotel of a group run by a small local chain, although it’s also the only one not on the island of Flores proper. (Don’t confuse this with La Casona de la Isla, which is part of the same chain and in Flores.) Still, this hotel is located right on the shores of the lake, with excellent views of its waters and picturesque island city. The three-story building is built in an L-shape, around a central pool and Jacuzzi area, and painted a bright primary blue, with sparkling white trim. Rooms are spacious, with two double beds, white-tile floors, a couple of sitting chairs, and a separate desk area, and they feature a host of modern amenities, including 21-inch televisions.

Calle Litoral, Zona 1, Santa Elena, Flores, Petén. /fax 502/7952-8700. www.hotelesdepeten.com. 32 units. Q704–Q784 double. Rates include full breakfast and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor Jacuzzi and pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Inexpensive

Hotel Casa Elena de las Flores This neat little hotel in downtown Santa Elena offers well-kept rooms at a fair price. Still, most of the rooms are on the small side, and their televisions are tiny. At the center of the hotel is a pretty little pool and lovely interior courtyard with shady palm trees. The pool even has a water slide, which is a hit with children. The hotel is kept immaculate, and there’s a friendly air to the whole operation. You’ll find a simple restaurant on the grounds, as well as an inviting second-floor bar. For a good view, head up to the unfinished rooftop terrace.

Av. 6 and Calle 2, Santa Elena, Petén. 502/7926-2235. Fax 502/7926-0097. www.casaelenadelasflores.com. 28 units. Q360–Q416 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; room service; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV.

Hotel Petén From the street, this hotel looks very modest. Walk through the doorway, though, and you’ll find an attractive small courtyard with tropical plants, a tiny semi-indoor pool, and a nice brick-and-stucco building of several floors. The rooms are all well-kept. The best rooms are those on the top two floors with private balconies and an excellent view of the lake. In fact, only five rooms here don’t have a lake view, so when you reserve or check in, be sure you get one that does. There’s a popular restaurant on the ground floor. These folks also have an in-house tour company, and are owned by the same company as a couple of other nearby hotels, in case this one is full.

Calle 30 de Junio, Flores, Petén. /fax 502/7867-5203. www.hotelesdepeten.com. 21 units. Q384–Q416 double. Rates include taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; pool. In room: A/C, TV.

Hotel Santana ★ This is a great choice if you’re looking to snag a lakefront room with a balcony and a view, all at a very good price. Most of the rooms here fit the criteria I just mentioned, and those on the third and fourth floors have the best views—still, be sure you get a lakeview room, and not one of the less desirable interior affairs. The rooms here are all cool, clean, and fairly spacious, and a definite cut above the rest of the options on the island of Flores in this price range. The large open-air dining room is a delightful place to sit and enjoy the lakeside setting as well. There’s a small kidney-shaped pool, with a built-in waterfall and swim-up bar, in a little courtyard to the side.

Calle 30 de Junio, Flores, Petén. /fax 502/7867-5123 or 502/7867-5193. www.santanapeten.com. 35 units. Q320–Q480 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV.

La Casona de la Isla La Casona de la Isla shows the same attention to service as the other properties run by this local hotel group. The guest rooms here are all fairly small and lack much in the way of style, but they do have tile floors, ceiling fans, and air-conditioning—although some of these A/C units can be rather old and noisy. Most come with a private balcony, and almost all of these have good views of the lake. The hotel is built in an L-shape around a stone terrace with lush gardens and a small swimming pool featuring a sculpted stone waterfall and separate Jacuzzi. Its restaurant serves good Guatemalan and international fare in a small dining room off the lobby, and there’s a back patio bar with an excellent view overlooking the lake.

Calle 30 de Junio, Flores, Petén. 502/7867-5163. www.hotelesdepeten.com. 26 units. Q416–Q456 double. Rates include taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor Jacuzzi and pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV.

Where to Dine

There are tons of places to eat around Flores and Santa Elena. Most are simple affairs serving local and Mexican cuisine, and geared toward locals and the backpacker crowd. Most of the hotels listed above have restaurants, and most of these are quite dependable. El Mirador Restaurant at the Hotel Petén Espléndido serves good but far from spectacular international fare; however, the setting is certainly the most elegant you’ll find in this neck of the woods.

In addition to the places listed below, Pizzeria Picasso ( 502/7867-5198; Calle 15 de Setiembre, across from El Tucán) serves pretty good wood-oven pizza and a variety of pastas.

Café Arqueológico Yaxhá ★ GUATEMALAN/MAYAN This is a relaxed and welcoming spot that serves excellent local fare, including dishes based on pre-Colombian recipes and ingredients. I recommend the Pollo Xni Pec, which is chicken in a spicy tomato sauce served with yucca. The German owner is an archaeologist, and photos of archaeological sites adorn the walls, books on the subject matter are available to browse, and talks, slide shows, and guided tours are often offered. This is also a good place to come for coffee drinks and fresh-fruit smoothies.

Calle 15 de Setiembre, across from El Tucán, Flores. 502/5830-2060. www.cafeyaxha.com. Main courses Q30–Q90. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

Capitán Tortuga ★ INTERNATIONAL This popular restaurant has a long and wide-ranging menu. You can get everything from pizzas to barbecue ribs to vegetarian shish kebabs. They also have a wide range of coffee and espresso drinks, as well as ice creams and freshly baked desserts. The large main dining room sits under a high thatch roof. However, I prefer the tables on the small outdoor patio that fronts the lake, or those in the second-floor, open-air dining room reached from a stairway out back. Service can be slow at times, but if you’re with a group or sharing a drink with fellow travelers, you might not mind.

Calle 30 de Junio, next to La Casona de la Isla, Flores. 502/7867-5089. Main courses Q32–Q120. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm.

La Luna ★★ INTERNATIONAL This hip little restaurant is the most creative and refined option in Flores. The menu ranges from steak in pepper sauce to lobster tails, with a host of fish and chicken—and even some vegetarian—options in between. I recommend starting things off with some stuffed peppers or a falafel side. There are three separate dining areas, and all are artistically decorated. My favorite room features a faux ceiba tree in the center and a wild sculpture on one wall made of wood and mirrors.

Calle 30 de Junio, across from La Casona de la Isla, Flores. 502/7867-5443. Main courses Q40–Q130. MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–11pm.

Flores & Santa Elena After Dark

There are several bars along Calle Sur fronting the lake just over the bridge as you enter Flores. Of these, AAdictos (no phone) is one of the liveliest. For a view of the lake and a happening dance, DJ, and party scene, you can head to Bar Raíces ( 5521-1843), at the far western end of Calle Sur. Another good option, near the center of the island, is Las Puertas ★ ( 7867-5242; corner of Calle Centroamérica and Avenida Santa Ana), which is a popular bar/restaurant that has nightly DVD movie showings and occasionally live music. Finally, for a mellow scene, try Cool Beans ★ ( 5571-9240; Calle 15 de Setiembre), a popular place for tourists and itinerant backpackers, with a convivial, laid-back vibe, free Wi-Fi, plenty of board games, and a view of the lake to boot.