Trip for the Colorado Mines, 1862

Ellen Tootle

INTRODUCTION

Grandmother was a very interesting person and her grandchildren were devoted to her. They talked about her continually so that she became real to me even though I was too small to remember her. When she died Grandfather came to live with us and he died in 1908. He was around six feet tall and she was very tiny — little hands and feet. She spoke French fluently and was a voracious reader especially of poetry and the classics. She was a kind person and did a great deal of charity work.

The above words were written in a letter to the editor by Ellen T. Lacey of St. Joseph, Missouri. Miss Lacey is a granddaughter of the Tootles and has been most helpful in supplying information about her grandparents.

Ellen Duffield Tootle’s birthplace was Hagerstown, Maryland. Hagerstown is just a few miles south of the Mason-Dixon line in a part of Maryland that experienced seriously divided loyalties during the Civil War. She had been born on November 27, 1832, the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Duffield Bell. He was a prominent newspaperman. Her mother, Ellen Bell, was well educated and had been active as a school teacher for a number of years.

On Thursday, June 5, 1862, Ellen Tootle wrote in the overland journal published here, “Seven weeks from the time we were married.” Her wedding date had been on April 17, 1862, in her Maryland home town. She had met the groom, Thomas Eggleston Tootle while on a visit to relatives in St. Joseph, Missouri. Thomas Tootle (b. April 4, 1820, Marion, Ohio) was a prosperous banker and businessman in St. Joseph. He ran a well-known dry goods store. The purpose of the delayed honeymoon journey was to scout out the possibility of expanding the business to Denver, Colorado. During the following years the dry goods business was expanded to Denver and to Helena, Montana, in addition to several stores in Iowa and Nebraska.

Over the years of their married life there were several children born to the couple: Mary Armstrong, b. Aug. 9, 1863, who married Judge William Knowles James; Ellen Bell, b. Feb. 10, 1865, who married Graham Gordon Lacey, and Thomas Tootle who died in infancy. The Tootles were Methodists, they lived out their lives in St. Joseph. Ellen died in April 1904, and Thomas in 1909.

One feature of their journal was the speed of travel. They started from Plattsmouth, Nebraska, on June 4, 1862, and reached Denver, Colorado, on June 21, 17 days later. They visited towns and mines along the face of the Rockies for a number of days, then they turned their backs on Denver on July 14 for the return journey. They arrived back at Plattsmouth 17 days later on July 31. The reason for the rapidity of their journey was that their wagon was drawn by high quality Missouri mules, which traveled twice as fast as oxen.

The only person who accompanied them on their journey was a mule-skinner named Warren. We don’t learn his surname. According to family members he was a free black man. We know nothing more about him.

Ellen Tootle’s diary was published in the Museum Graphic by the St. Joseph Museum, Vol. XIII, No. 2 (Spring 1961). It is here published with their permission and with that of Miss Helen T. Lacey, the descendant, quoted above.

We have also found most useful Sheridan A. Logan’s definitive book, Old Saint Jo, published in 1979. Mr. Logan has been personally helpful as well.

Ellen Tootle is very explicit in her descriptions of the mines and towns in the gold region of Colorado. As further descriptions of them, the reader will find helpful the following publications: Muriel S. Wolle, Stampede to Timberline, The Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of Colorado (Boulder, 1950); Harry Hansen, ed., Colorado, A Guide to the Highest State (New York, 1970), revised edn., and, of course, that indispensible publication of the Colorado Historical Society, Colorado Magazine.

THE DIARY

Started from St. Joe, May 27th, 1862, on the “West Wind” at 10 o’clock p. m.

May 29. A storm last night compelled the boat to lay by 4 or 5 hours, so that we did not arrive at Plattsmouth, Nebraska, until 1 o’clock. Were awakened in the night by the rain coming on us and found the berth quite wet in spots and some of our clothes on upper berth completely saturated with water. Though it stopped raining in the morning, it continued cloudy and just before we arrived at Plattsmouth, came down torrents. We had to climb the hill in wind and rain, our feet slipping back every step we took. Staid with Mr. Hanna, Mr. Tootle’s partner. Were received cordially by himself and wife, (both Kentuckians) and treated with the greatest kindness.

Plattsmouth is situated on the bluffs. It is much larger than it appeared from any one point. There is but one place from which the whole town is visable. Like all new towns the houses are of board with one or two exceptions which are brick. The location of the place and country around are beautiful. It is one of the principal points from which the emigration and freighting for Colorado, California and those countries start from. It will, after awhile, be the chief route as there are no obstacles on that route which the other roads possess, no rivers to ford and road very fine. That western trade is even now immense and what supports the place.

Eggs, potatoes, and butter are very cheap. A farmer went to the store and offered 10 bushels of potatoes for a pair of shoes for his wife, priced $2.50, and haul them to town (10 miles.) In the fall they will not dig them for that price, but in the spring, will sell them for whatever they can get. Nebraska, Iowa, and north Missouri, the farmers raise a great deal of sorgum [sorghum] (Chinese Sugar Cain) and manufacture not only their own molasses, but for sale too. Some farmers, the poorer ones never have sugar in the house during the year, but make their preserves, pies and sweeten their coffee with sorgum. Some of it is as clear as honey.

May 30. The presbyterians had a “reception” as they termed it for the purpose of assisting in raising funds to build a church. They were entertained by Charades and for refreshments, cake and ice cream. Charges — 10 cts. admittance, 10 cts. for a large saucer of ice creem and slice of cake. It rained and there was such a small attendance that the Charades were postponed though the ice cream was all sold. Friday, the evening appointed, though it rained again, it did not interfere. The Charades were well enacted for persons of no practice, indeed some sustained their parts very well and with a good deal of vivacity. It was quite amusing.

May 31st. Saturday. Went to Sidney. It is in Iowa, southeast of Plattsmouth on the opposite side of the river, but not on it. It was a cloudy day and rained several times, notwithstanding which we had a pleasant ride. The scenery is very beautiful, timber, bluffs, and rolling prairie, nothing monotinous. We passed through 3 quite pretty little towns, Pacific City, Tabor, and Glenwood. Mr. Tootle drove his mules for the first time and though they are very fine ones, he had to be whipping and hollering at them all the time like all mules. Sidney like Plattsmouth, is a small town. Contains about 500 inhabitants. It is situated on high prairie and the houses not so scattered. It looks larger. The houses are nearly all white, gives it a neat appearance. We staid with Mr. Tootle’s uncle. He is living in a large house and large rooms. A luxuary one appreciates in this new country. Everything had such a home like appearance and the cooking so like home and everyone so kind, I would have liked to have remained longer.

Wednesday, June 4th. Did not get back to Plattsmouth until late Monday evening. Mr. Tootle could not get through with his business and preparations in time to start before this morning. Did not get off until 10 o’clock. Had to make 35 miles to arrive at a camping place which we reached about 8 o’clock P. M. Were not as comfortable today as we expect to be, things were just put in every way. The inside of the wagon is filled nearly to the top with boxes, trunks, comfortables, blankets, guns, a matress, all the etc. of camp life. As we were so late starting, did not stop for dinner, but ate a rhubarb pie Mr. Hanna gave us. It was very soft and rather difficult to dispose of having no plates to hold it, no knife to cut or fork to eat with. We took our first lesson in the use of fingers as a substitute. By the time we got into camp, the mules and pony picketed for the night, our ham and crackers eaten and the wagon cleared so as to spread the bed, it was 11 o’clock.

June 5th, Thursday. Seven weeks from the time we were married. At the very hour, we were seated on the prairie eating breakfast. As it was only our 2nd meal, we did not aspire to anything but cold ham and crackers. Mr. Tootle says I cannot do anything but talk, so would not trust me to make the coffee. Boasted very much of his experience. He decided to make it himself, but came to ask me how much coffee to take, for information, I know, but he insisted, only out of respect. The coffee pot holds over 1 qt. I told him the quantity of coffee to 1 qt. He took that, filled the coffee pot with water then set it near, but not on the fire. I noticed it did not boil, but said nothing. When they drank it, they both looked rather solemn and only took one or two sips. I thought it was time to have an opinion upon it. As Mr. Tootle would not volunteer one, I inquired how the coffee tasted. He acknowledged it was flat and weak, but insisted I did not give him proper directions. He consented to let me try it at supper time. Stopped for dinner where we heard there was water, but it was so muddy, even the mules would not drink. Had ham, dried beef, crackers, pickle and syrup for dinner with brandy today. The brandy and whiskey we brought for medicinal purposes, but indulged in a little as we had just started on our journey. The first day, the cork came out of the whiskey bottle and spilled more than half, to Mr. Tootle’s great disappointment. Indeed I don’t believe he has recovered from it yet. Camped at a beautiful place in the evening. A stream wound round the foot of the hill and the sides of the hill were covered with large trees. Got into camp at 5 o’clock. Mr. Tootle shot three snipes today. Warren cleaned them for breakfast. I was all impatience to try my skill in making coffee. I watched it anxiously until it was boiling and waited with the greatest solicitude and I must acknowledge some misgiving, for them to taste it. Oh, but I was rejoiced and relieved when they pronounced it very good. Warmed some dried beef in butter. As it was my first attempt at cooking, felt a little nervous as to the result. However, everything was cooked very well. Washed dishes in hot water. The first time we had enough and time to warm it. Think we can live quite cleanly. The wagon was arranged more comfortable today, things stored away under the seat in the lower part of the wagon between the mattress and bottom. It did not take but a little time to prepare for bed. Retired at 10 o’clock. Warren wakened us this morning at 3 o’clock. As it was 11 when we retired last night, had rather a short allowance of sleep. I protested against being wakened so early, so we got up at 5 this morning, but find it will be necessary to rise at 4 o’clock, rather more early than agreeable. 12 wagons were camped near us. Two parties, one going to Denver, the other to Washington Territory. Passed wagons today from Denver to St. Joe, ladened with hides. Went 30 miles today.

May [June] 6th, Friday. Warren awakened us a little after 3 again. Cooked the snipes with Mr. Tootle’s assistance. They were delicious. Had soaked crackers for breakfast. My first appempt and I did not soak them enough. Still they were very good and a little change. Dropped the stock of one of the guns. Warren had to ride back after it which detained us ½ hour. Took dinner as yesterday on the open prairie. No water excepting for the mules. Mr. Tootle brought with him a preparation of lemon (as he thought) but it proved to be tartaric acid and sugar, he had been cheated. It was refreshing, though rather a poor substitute for lemonade. Camped at 6½ o’clock. Washed our persons for the first time. There was a house partly built which we went into for the purpose, just a few yards from our wagon. Felt so comfortable afterwards. We undress at night though it is not customary on such trips. Took sheets with us and spread our bed as we do in the mornings at home. A family lives in an adobe house where we camped. They call it adobe, but it is only sod, square pieces ½ yd. square piled upon one another with the grass side down. The outside wall is the thickness of two pieces of sod, or 1 yd. The inside walls only one piece. The chimney and roof is of sod too. It is quite picturesque. Came in sight of the Platte at 5½ o’clock. The scenery was very fine, the country became more rolling, along the Platte. Hills covered with timber and a creek tributary to it. Passed 3 or 4 camps of ox wagons, consisting of from two or three wagons to a dozen. Met a number of wagons returning from Pikes Peak. Retired at 11 o’clock. When we camp, Mr. Tootle and Warren first unharness the mules and pony then picket them. After that build a fire and put the water on to boil. Then either Mr. Tootle or myself make the coffee and get supper together. While they feed and picket pony and the mules for the night, I prepare the bed and wash the dishes. For breakfast we go through the same routine. We have cold dinners.

June 7th, Saturday. Mr. Tootle put on his traveling suit for the first time. It consists of a flannel shirt, one is blue with a blue and white plaid bosom, cuffs and collar. The other is scarlet flannel with a sulfureous1 striped with white for a bosom, cuffs and collar. Pants pepper salt cloth. Cold days or mornings and evenings he wears a coat.

My traveling suit is a cotton material brown plaid minus hoopes, dark stockings, brown cambric skirt, brown hat trimmed with brown ribbon and blue veil covering head and face leaving a hole through which I could see and breath. For a change I have a blue calico bonnet with a beaux at least ½ yd. long.

Today we came into Platte River bottom and found the dust very disagreeable, but only for a little while. The road through the Platte bottom is sand from 2 inches to over 1 ft. deep. The mornings and evenings are cool indeed sometimes cold, but through the middle of the day, it is very warm. Saw 3 antelopes at a distance. Flowers like sweet-peas and fox gloves, another that resembles cow-slip exactly excepting the clusters are larger. None of the green leaves resemble the garden flowers. Nearly all the prairie flowers are fragrant. There is quite a variety of colors and shades chiefly blue, pink, red, purple, and yellow.

June 9th, Monday. We have not seen any snipe since the 2nd day but great numbers of doves, generally in pairs, but frequently in flocks. There are blackbirds too and occasionally we see a lark and some brown birds. I don’t know their names. The Platte is now very high and muddy. When it is low, it is clear. The bottom is sand. There is no timber in the Platte valley, all the wood is obtained from the islands in the river. Nearly all the ranches are adobe. Warren talks in his sleep. Last night he said, “Mr. Tootle, I have a black silk lash on my whip 18 yds. long, must I drive until I use it up?”

There was a strong wind when I rode pony this morning. As I had nothing out of my trunk, had to don a black sacque coat — of Mr. Tootle’s.

The travel is much greater than the first few days. The roads from Omaha, St. Joe and Atchison come into the road just before and after we pass Fort Kearney. Every few miles we meet trains, some emigants, but generally freight trains. Drove 41 miles Saturday, as we did not intend traveling on Sunday, but the place we camped was a mile or more from a house, no wood, no timber, and no water, but at the ranch. We were told that 5 miles over was a ranch where we could buy wood and find water, and 10 miles a ranch with timber and water. When we reached the 1st ranch, found no wood, no good camping place and no water but the river, so we went to the 10 mile place. The timber was on two miles so we camped in the plains. For 10 cts. bought 5 sticks of wood about 3 ft. long, 3 or 4 inches in diameter. We had dinner and supper together as we did not get into camp before 10 o’clock. Had boiled potatoes and fried flitch.2 Both new dishes, so we enjoyed them very much. By the by I lost a bet on the last. Mr. Tootle bet me a new dress I would eat fat meat before I was half way to Denver. I entirely forgot it, and ate 3 pieces of fried flitch, when he very triumphantly reminded me of it. As we had not been able to wash for two days, both got on pony, (I rode behind Mr. Tootle) and went to the Platte to bathe. The river was so muddy, we were afraid to go in it for fear of holes or quick sand, so we had to content ourselves with a sponge bath. It was a lovely evening, the scenery so fine, nothing could surpass it. The sky was a bright rose color, the Platte flowing beneath it reflecting its rosiattints and studded with islands of all sizes from 1 yd to 1 or 2 miles long, some covered with high grass and all have trees, some evergreen. That was all the timber in sight. Behind us the prairie was stretched out for miles bounded by the bluffs. The Platte though from 1 to 1½ miles wide is nowhere more than 1 to 4 ft deep. It had more islands than any river in the world. We counted 7 just in front of us in a few hundred yards. In other places I counted 40 or 50 in a small distance. They contributed very much to the beauty of the river.

When we got back to the wagon, we lunched on canned peaches, then retired. Peaches were never more relished. We rose early this morning about 3 o’clock. I ride every morning and evening on pony. The trains we pass are for Pike’s Peak, California, and Washington Territory, mostly ox trains, some mules occasionally a horse train. There are ranches every 5, 10, 12, 15, sometimes 20 miles. Every ranch is a sort of house of entertainment, has a bar room, and little store attached to it. There are with few exceptions, wells at them and the only places good water can be obtained, so the trains always camp near them and stop to water at least. At every ranch from 2 or 3 to 6 or 8 trains were camped, some trains consist of 2 or 3, some of 10 or 12 wagons. Yesterday did not seem much like Sunday. Read a few chapters in the Bible, the only way I could observe it.

June 10th, Tuesday. Warren wakened us this morning 15 minutes of three, telling us it was going to rain. To our great joy it rained but a few moments. Met a stage from St. Joe just where the road comes into the main road. Met it at the first town on the road after leaving Plattsmouth called Nebraska [City] and consists of the stage office, which is of boards, one other board house, 1 log, 2 adobe, one of the last is a sort of bank “Stock of Exchange” is the sign. The woman that kept the stage office house was quite genteel in her manners. Mr. Tootle asked her if I could have a glass of milk. She brought each of us a plate with a glass of milk and two slices of fruit cake (molasses cake with raisins in it) very nice and I enjoyed it extremely. A man came in from Pike’s Peak. He had 4 apples in his hand, gave one to the woman, one to her sister, one to a widow and handing the other to Mr. Tootle said he never liked to slight a lady and asked if I would not take it. I was most glad to get anything that looked like fresh fruit. The house the stage stopped at or “Station” as they are termed, had 4 or 5 large rooms. The land lady told me it was not completed, that they had to ship everything either from the Missouri, 200 miles, or Denver, 400 miles. That the timber all came from Denver. They could get it much finer and cheaper and transportation was less. Arrived at Fort Kearney 2 o’clock P. M. Found a letter from Eddie. Never was a letter more welcomed. Camped in the square of Kearney City, 2 miles from the Fort. Mr. Tootle bought 2 loaves of bread. Never enjoyed anything more in my life.

June 11th. Wednesday. It had every appearance of a storm last night, so we camped in front of an old adobe house. It was uninhabited. It did not rain, but was such a dirty spot that we concluded next morning to ride until 8 or 10 o’clock. Then take breakfast. There were two ranches a few yds from us and the men seemed to be intoxicated so Mr. Tootle did not like to retire until they went into their houses and it became quiet. It was 12 o’clock before he came to bed. Warren called us at 2. I could not get to sleep again. At 4 we started. Warren commenced hitching at 3. At 9 we camped for breakfast. Mr. Tootle bought a quart of new milk for my breakfast. My but I did enjoy it. We will take a lunch as we ride along and not stop until evening. We prefer this arrangement as we have the coolest part of the morning to travel in, have worked up an appetite for breakfast and I can sleep as long as I wish. There are dead mules, occasionally a horse and great numbers of oxen lying along the road. It is caused chiefly by the alkali which is in the soil and impregnates the water. Persons that are ignorant of it let their cattle drink at the pools of water. The wells are so little impregnated as not to be injurious. Many cattle die from fatigue. The sand is deep and the hills long, it is very hard on them. Until today the water has been good. I would not drink it, but Mr. Tootle and Warren did and it made them sick. Wood sells 5 cts. a stick, 3 ft. long and 4 inches in diameter. Corn sold at Plattsmouth 25 cts. per bushel. 30 miles from there, Mr. Tootle paid $1.00. Here it sells for $2.40. Saw two ducks in the road yesterday, but they would not let Mr. Tootle get near enough to shoot them.

June 12, Thursday. The ranch we camped at last night was a greater distance than we had been told. Then we had to drive 1 mile farther for grass so that it was 10 o’clock before we got into camp and 12 before we retired. It was so warm and I had slept so much during the day that I could not get to sleep. There was a young antelope at a ranch. We watered and an Indian man and boy drove up. While we were at breakfast, a filthy, dirty squaw and papoose came up. Fortunately we were done. The Papoose had a little dirty yellow flannel, (something between a sacque and shirt) on, nothing else and it hardly came to its waist. It ran about where it pleased. The squaw had drawers and skirt with a buffalo robe wrapped around her. Skirt, drawers and robe were all the color of dirt. We had sardines for breakfast. Mr. Tootle remarked “Indians will eat all the grease they can get.” Gave her the box with the oil and some pieces of sardines. Then offered her the fat from the fried flitch. She held out her hand for it. He motioned her to hold the box and poured it in. She then began dipping the crackers we had given her in it and drinking it with great gusto. It made me sick. Came upon a wigwam consisting of 6 or 7 lodges. They are made of a dozen or more poles 12 or 15 ft. long, 5 or 6 inches in diameter at the bottom, tapering up. The larger end is put in the ground, and the small ends all together stick out of the hole at the top. The hole is at the top in one side for the smoke to escape and triangular, each side ½ or ¾ yds. long. There is another similar hole at the bottom for ingress and egress. The lodges are made of buffalo skins sewed together and there is a piece the size of the holes hanging to one side so they can close them up when they wish. They look picturesque in pictures, but to see them dispels the romance. The Indians are all filthy looking creatures. The ones we meet now are Sioux. They are uncivilized. Some few are dressed in citizens clothes, nearly wrapped in blankets or robes. Some boys even 10 or 14 years old with nothing but a dirt colored shirt to their waist.

June 13, Friday. Passed Cotton Wood Springs at 5 o’clock A. M. Came upon another Indian camp, they are at every ranch we pass now. We seemed to have come into mosquito region last night and this morning. They swarmed the wagon. We could scarcely eat supper for them.

June 14, Saturday. Last night camped at a station. Mr. Tootle got a pitcher of delightful buttermilk. The house was very clean and neat, of log, the door, walls and ceiling covered with coffee sacques. That is the case with all the houses when they make any pretensions to comfort. There was no timber in isght all day yesterday and this morning until we passed “O’Fallons Bluffs”, then we saw bushes and occasionally a tree on an island. We have been travelling since Thursday on the bluffs. The road is very rough up and down hill so that we travel about 3 miles an hour. Since we passed O’Fallons Bluff, we are travelling through the bottom. Yesterday passed the place where the river forks. We travelled along the South Fork of the Platte. The scenery this morning was unsurpassed. To the left were level plains spread out for miles, bounded by bluffs. To the right were the bluffs, lonely broken, rugged, with a gap through which we could see the South Fork of the Platte bordered on both sides by prairie so level that they look like the meadows of Maryland. Beyond them the bluffs of the farther side of the South Fork of the Platte, and in the distance the bluffs of the North Fork at a short distance have the appearance of ranges of mountains in the distance. Pony was so nearly well that I resumed my riding yesterday evening.

degraded race. Mr. Tootle bought the ham of an antelope from them. It took him more than ½ hour to wash it clean. We fried some in butter for dinner. It was so tender and nice, so delicate and pleasantly flavoured, much nicer, I think, than venison. After washing it, it destroyed Mr. Tootle’s appetite, he never could relish it. We occasionally see the graves of some Indian chief or braves or their wives. 4 or 6 poles 6 or 8 ft. long are put erect in the ground, the shape of an oblong square. The upper end is generally forked. Then other are laid across them on the tops, to support the corpse which is wrapped in a blanket with a piece of buffalo robe or vermillion colored cloth spread over them. Northwest of Denver is a stream called Vermillion creek where they get a vermillion clay they color with. There are camps of Indians at almost every ranch. We meet numbers travelling, some walk, some ride on ponys. It is chiefly the men who ride, they carry their tents on ponys. They tie the poles in two bunches, one on one side the other on the other side of the pony, put the tent, (folded up) on his back near the upper end of the poles. The large ends of the poles are exact side of the pony’s head, the small ends drag on the ground. Sometimes they have their baggage or papoose tied between the poles just below the horses tail. They are tied to both sides of the poles and hold them together. Until 2 o’clock today the wind blew terrifically. Blew the dishes off the table (boxes) capsized the table, almost blew me over.

June 16th, Monday. Came to Julesburg or Overland City about 4 o’clock. It is the most important point on the road. All the crossing of the Platte for California, Utah, Oregon, and Washington on this road is done here excepting a very little at the “old California Crossing” about 25 miles below. The city consists of 2 stables, 1 blacksmith shop, wagon shop, one station, all the property of the stage company. A hunting dog followed us today from a ranch. The Indian dogs are nearly all half wolf. Saw a prairie dog yesterday at a station. Some men caught it away from its hole and run it down. It was about the size of a Gray Squirrel and looked much like one of a yellowish gray color. Its ears are so small as scarcely to be perceptible. Its head is perhaps more like a rabbit. They are more of the nature of a ground squirrel than any other animal and what is called their bark is nothing like the bark of a dog more like the noise a squirrel makes, indeed I thought at first it proceeded from a bird, and frequently mistook it for the noise of the creaking of the wagon wheels. They are so quick in their motions that it is almost impossible to shoot them. Mr. Tootle fired at several, but they dropped in their holes before the shot could reach them. At least he did not think he hit them, but he could not tell. The prairie for hundreds of miles is covered with their holes. The soil is so sandy beyond Fort Kearney they do not attempt to cultivate it. They told me at a station that they heard of some one trying to raise potatoes. The islands can be cultivated and sometimes are. I find I cannot sleep after they commence preparing to start, so I get up at 3 o’clock with Mr. Tootle and ride from 4 or 4½ to about 7, then take a siesta when I return to the wagon. It is so pleasant riding early in the morning. We only take 2 meals now. We found we lost too much time having breakfast before we started, the heat of the day would come on by the time we were through. By rising at 3 o’clock, starting at 4, we can travel 12, 15 or 20 miles before breakfast, stop for it at 8, 9, or 10 o’clock, we do not require but two meals, then lay by 12 or 1 o’clock, the mules are resting during the warm part of the day, and fresh for the afternoon. Yesterday had to ride 15 miles to a station. The place we camped Saturday night was so disagreeable that we could only find time to read a few chapters in the Bible. Had to brown coffee, our coffee had given out and did not know how soon we could find a ranch clean enough or if the proprietors would permit it.

June 17, Tuesday. Yesterday evening the cactus commenced for miles and miles. Almost all the way to Denver the prairie is covered with the Prickly-Pear Cactus. The flower is generally straw color pale or deep. Sometimes it is crimson. There are a few other cactuses all grow low. Excepting the prickly pear, all are round. The flowers of them are pink and very pretty. Mr. Tootle killed one of the large rabbits this morning. It was immense for a rabbit. They are very light grey on their backs, white underneath. Their ears are very long. The sand which was black has become yellow. There are nettles of a beautiful straw color. Pony deliberately laid down with me this morning. The sand was very deep and he got tired. We will be through the deep sand in a few days. The Platte is so high that in several places it has overflowed the road. Came into Colorado Territory only yesterday near the “old California Crossing”. Saw more dead oxen than usual yesterday and today. The Sandhills are very hard for them to pull up and there is a great deal of alkali in the soil here. Mr. Tootle found two beautiful pink cactus. He planted them at a station so we could get them when we returned.

June 18th Wednesday. Two antelope crossed the road about ¼ of a mile ahead of us and disappeared over the bluff. This is not the season for buffalo and this road is two much travelled to see many. They told us at a station that the Indians had driven them to the Arkansas to prevent the whites from shooting them. In coming up the sand hills today about every 100 yds passed a dead or dying oxen. The hills are very long and sand 1 ft. deep. Met a number of trains returning from Denver without freight. Two or three wagons are fastened together. All the oxen that are not required for use are driven along. It is done for economy, not half the hands are necessary. One man can drive three or four wagons and one of the loose oxen. They sell wood now for 10 cts. per lb.

June 19th, Thursday. We see but few birds now. Oh, Occasionally doves, and a large bird with long neck and legs. Mr. Tootle thinks it is kingfisher. Denver is about 600 miles west of St. Joe. If I remember correctly about the computation of time, here (500 Miles west) would be nearly ½ hour behind St. Joe time, but strange to say, they are ahead of St. Joe. They are very fast people. 300 miles from St. Joe, they were 30 minutes before St. Joe time. 400 miles, 35 minutes. By the watches here the sun rises at 5, sets at 8 o’clock.3 See great numbers of prairie dogs. Came in sight of the Rocky mountains today about 12 o’clock. Mr. Tootle saw them two hours before he pointed them out to me. 115 miles from the mountains and 100 from Denver. They present the appearance of white painted clouds, excepting they are more decided than clouds and their outlines more distinct. Pictures of the Alps are correct representations of them. Have seen mirages frequently, but today saw finer ones than ever before. The representation of water was perfect of a large lake with rushes growing in it and timber on the border and in places where the timber opened, the water ran through as perfectly as in a natural lake. The clouds were reflected in it as in real water. I believe the greatest curiosity we have witnessed since we left home was two whirlwinds today. The large one was at such a distance we could not have as fine a view of it. The other was only a few yds. from us. Its connection with the ground was almost severed. It looked like a little cloud of dust for 6 or 8 ft, then for 50 or 60 or more it formed a distinct tube or pipe, a perfect sand spout from 9 to 12 inches in diameter. We could see the sand draw up on the inside and descend upon the outside. It was a perfect and distinct hollow tube. After awhile the wind curved it and it gradually dissipated, but not until at least 15 minutes after we first saw it. What seemed strange was that there was so little wind as scarcely to be perceptible.

June 20th Friday. Came to Bijou Creek [Colorado] this morning and found the first timber for 8 days. Saw a number of antelope today, and hundreds of prairie dogs. Their houses on the outside are like large ant hills from 1½ to 3 ft in diameter, made of gravel they throw up out of the ground.

Nothing could be more grand than the mountains today. Only their tops are covered with snow, down half the distance visible today. A greater extent of range came in sight than yesterday. Were in a storm today the most severe part passed by us.

June 21st, Saturday. Arrived at Denver about 8 o’clock P. M. It is real luxury to live in a room and sleep in a bed again. Cheyennes and Arrapahoes came into town yesterday with the trophies they had taken in battle with the Utes. The Utes are the mountain Indians, the others are plains Indians. The Indians of the mountains are always on terms of deadly hostility with the Indians of the plains. The party that came into town had some trophies from the war, scalps, a few prisoners aned some ponys. They had war dances all night and during Sunday, but left Sunday evening. I regretted so much we could not witness the dance. Attended the Episcopal church in the morning. Bishop Talbot,4 the Episcopal Bishop of the northwest preached. He is a native of Virginia. At night we went to the Methodist. The Catholic is the only other church. The Episcopalians have no church, but use a room. Denver is situated on the Platte about 18 miles from the base of the mountains. It is but 5 years old.

June 25th Wednesday. Gov.5 took a company of Artillery and followed the Indians that were in town because they stole horses and furniture from the whites. They are a part of a tribe that would not sign a treaty with the U. S. Government. They promised him to leave the territory in a few days. Started at 9 o’clock for the mountains. As we approach, the first range looks like immense sand bluffs covered with short grass or pine trees of immense size. From the time we leave Denver until we get to the mountains, the road descended. When we get into the mountains we ascended ridge after ridge and descended but little. There is a long, long hill and so steep in going down one feels that they are never coming to the bottom or rather you think all the time you are coming to the foot but it is only the base of one of the long hills that compose the very very long one. Just after we entered the mountains we came upon Golden City. It is almost deserted. A very small town about 2 miles from Golden Gate. When we arrived at the Gate, I thought it was the terminus of the road. Nothing but mountains rising up in every direction. The road after passing through the gate turns off at a right angle around the base of one of the ridges of mountains and continues at the base, the mountains rising at each side of it. There are the most beautiful wild flowers richer in color and larger than the ones on the plains. A flower like our blue cultivated columbine, but 3 or 4 times as large, Larkspur and several flowers the same as our wild flowers. We saw one field of quite fine wheat and quite a number of gardens. The toll gate man had a magpie. It was the shape of a crow. Its head and neck black, its wings and tail blue. The first gold found was in Cherry Creek which runs through Denver. There was so little, it did not pay for working. My sacque dropped out of the wagon coming down the very long hill. It quite distressed me. Because it belonged to my travelling suit and it will be spoiled. There are two hotels on this road very well kept. We thought we could get to Central City and would not stop, but the mules were so jaded that we stopped at a little log cabin. Everything looked clean.

June 26th, Thursday. The log cabin we stopped at had two rooms and the garret or loft was divided by a partition into two rooms, that to my joy and surprise we had a room to ourselves. We could only stand upright in the middle. There is so much competition on this road that they are obliged to have good fare. For supper we had worked biscuit, boiled ham, fried potatoes, a large dish of green peas (the first we have seen this season) and eggs. Peaches and elegant rich cream. Tea and milk. For breakfast, we had the same. We enjoyed the peaches and cream though an outre dish for breakfast. They cannot raise vegetables on the mountain. There is too much frost. All those tender vegetables are raised in the valleys of the mountains. Radishes, turnips, and those hardy vegetables only, are raised on the mountains. Wagons pass every day from Denver to Central City and over the frequented mountain roads, very frequently with fresh meat and vegetables raised in the valleys, and canned fruits and vegetables. A great quantity of the latter are used. The only way in which I was conscious of the rarity of the air was by becoming fatigued when walking a very short distance. It is extremely hot here in summer in the middle of the day and frost every night. They gave us a feather bed to sleep upon, but it contained so few feathers we could feel every slat in the bed. But everything was so much better than the appearance outside led us to expect that we were delighted. Came down a hill 3 miles long, but not so steep as the one yesterday. Arrived at Central City about 9 o’clock A. M. the livery stables here is on the lower floor of the hotel. Our room was immediately over it. The Verandah and Metropolitan are the fashionable hotels of the place, both kept by the same man. Our room was in the Metropolitan, very rude and indifferent accommodations. The whole Gregory diggings6 is a very rough looking place. They are continuations of little towns each bearing different names. When a man discovers a lead, he builds near it and as others come to work it, they build up along it, thus forming a town. The most central and important is Central City. So we stopped there. As we entered the city we met wagons loaded with quartz and others with sand, going to the mills. The first and largest mills are the Black-Hawk. There are no locks on the doors out here, nothing but a latch. Visited the mines this afternoon. Went upon golden hill. The Gregory mines, the richest here in the mountains, as is the custom, have adopted the name of the discoverer. He is from Georgia. He would work a lead until the presence of gold became certain, then sell it. In that way he made his fortune. First visited Mr. Martin & Leir’s mill. Mr. Leir visited the mines with us, but gave us some very fine collect all fine ones and you can only obtain them from them. Of course there are different qualities of gold and different qualities of quartz. The purest gold found in the quartz is of a bronze color. The finest quartz, I mean the quality, that yields most abundantly and the finest quality of gold is a prussian blue. The gold is found in veins of quartz, very light and porrus, lying on the surface. The rock at each side of the lead or vein of gold quartz is white or light greyish quartz, called wall rock. (They term everything quartz out here). The veins of gold in this part of the mountain are confined to a belt about ½ mile wide and makes its first appearance at the base of a hill east of Central City and runs west about 3 miles. Out of that belt, little or no gold is found. In it, if you take up a pan full of dust in the street or anywhere, it will contain at least 3 or 5 cts. worth. The richest part of the Gregory mines is called the “patch” and is about ¼ mile square. The whole of it is covered with holes, piles of sand and quartz, sluices and every spot of it worked. Here I saw the cradle or rocker in use. It is used in sluice mining. It is set under the trough. As it rocks, the water runs off the sides and the weight of the gold sinks it to the bottom. It is the shape of an old fashioned child’s cradle, wider and the sides more sloping. Has a sheet iron bottom with larger holes through which the gold falls to a second bottom. The sluice or gulch mining is done by a continuation of troughs, the lower end resting on the trough below it. That is what gives them the inclination. The troughs are about 1 yd long, have strips across the bottom to arrest the gold, or two bottoms, the upper one with holes. The water running such a distance the weight of the gold deposits of course with sand which is washed from it, in pans generally, sometimes cradles. They clean the troughs every Saturday, generally, and take out the sand and gold, wash the sand away. The gold found in this way is called gulch gold, It is the purist. The nuggets are all found in this way. Surface gold or that found on the surface has less foreign matter than quartz gold. Quartz gold is that found in the quartz rock. That found 200 ft down is called lead gold. In the sluice mines here, the richest is found in yellow earth. Here they dig down the banks. Down at Terryall, Pikes Peak, it is done by a hydraulic machine, the pipes play with water upon the banks, just as fire engine pipes play upon a building and wash it down. The quartz rock and sand is hauled to a mill, shoveled into a trough over which iron pounders of different weight, (in the mills we visited, they weighed 800 lbs.) 10 or 12 pounders. They are so arranged that the falling of one, raises the adjoining one and visa versa, so that half the number are raised at one time. They fit into a die of metal upon which they crush the quartz into very fine powder. Water runs through the trough all the time, carrying the quartz after it is pounded, upon plates spread with mercury with which the gold forms an amalgamate and the quartz dust runs off. As 1/10 of the gold (or rather quartz powder containing 1/10 of the gold) runs off in the water before it leaves the mill, just as it runs out of the trough, it runs over two rows of plates 1½ or 2 yds long or ¾ or 1 yd wide, covered with mercury. Once a week, generally Saturday, the plates outside the trough are cleaned and put into a cradle, the mercury evaporated by heat and thus the gold obtains a comparative purity. The pounded quartz after all the gold that can be taken from it is extracted. It is called tailings and contains about $40 to the cord this imperfect mode of extracting does not enable them to get. When a miner discovers gold his right is paramount to all other claims. If he discovers it under a house he digs thus undermines the house and lets it tumble over or else tears it down previous to commencing work. All that is necessary is to give the occupant notice of an hour or two to leave. I saw a number of houses tumbled over. The discoverer of a claim has a right to 300 sq. ft. Any one else to only 50 sq. ft. All their expenses is the recorder’s fee of 60 cts. In working mines when they get too deep to pitch out the earth and rock, it is drawn out in buckets by a windlass, but when it gets too low, it is done by horses. Ropes are attached to the buckets and run over pulleys around a large wooden drum which has a shaft to which a horse is attached to turn it. They are introducing steam engines as a substitute. The lands of gold here runs east and west and what is singular all the leads point to a certain knob in the mountain. The sluice mining pays about an average of $8 a day to a man, that is, a man finds that much gold in a day. Quality averages from $7 to $15 per day. The Black Hawk mills do a more extensive business than any other mills, average $3200 per week, but only about 1/3 is clear. The other mills average but $200 per week. Mr. Leir said their expenses were $100 per day. They pay $1.50 a sqare inch for 24 hours. It is brought from the Snow Range, 12 miles. As it enters the mills it runs through a square box which has the grades to measure it. Silver and copper are both found in the quartz that contain gold, but iron, chiefly in the form of pyrite. In the leads of very fine gold here, opal is found. It is a milky white with the colors of the rainbow. In the George Gulch, rubies are found in abundance. Wages vary from $1.00 to $15.00 per day and even more. To bore through 1 ft. of rock costs from $15 to $40. At Pikes Peak, there are other mines discovered since these, yet have not proved so rich. Got back to Denver 6 o’clock this evening. The Black Hawk mills payed out $3200 before they cleared one ct.

Monday, June 30th. Started this morning for Pikes Peak via Colorado City. The scenery is finer than any we have witnessed since leaving home. The different ridges of the mountains and hills are of every shape. Numbers of them have the appearance of having the tops cut off and are perfectly level, some for two or more miles in extent and are cultivated. Some have rocks on the top. One large conical hill, seemed to have the apex cut off and an immense rock, 65 ft. high set down upon it. The roads are splendid, as smooth as a floor and superior to any gravel walks in private parks. They are all gravel hard smooth and level, the finest in the world. We have not got into the mountains, but seem to be between some outside ridges and spires of the mountain. The flowers since we have got into the mountains are much richer colors and more numerous. They are of bright scarlet, crimson, purple, and blue of different shades and yellow and a few white.

July 1st, Tuesday. The roads are more hilly though just as smooth, still gravel. Came today upon the head waters of the Arkansas. They are Monument Creek and La Fontain Quebouil7 or fountain of the boiling waters. Monument Stream empties into La Fontain Quebouil. It derives its name from the white monuments on its banks. They are composed of quartz held together by a cement of lime and sand, seems to have been washed into the shape they now are, which is every variety, pyramids, spires, columns, square monuments, some of the columns decrease in size towards the top, others increase in size towards the top. They are generally in groups and at a little distance have the appearance of a cemetary. Several of the columns had a large, flat, square slab of limestone on top like the cap on a pillar. They were 3 to 6 inches thick and extending beyond the column about 6 or 8 inches on all sides. The monuments are from 3 or 4 ft. in height to 40 or 50 ft., in height. Some at a distance resemble cabins so much that we wondered at persons building on such high mountains, such inaccesible places. Others were perfect representations of pieces of architecture. At a distance, we could not get near them, they seemed to have pillars, cornicing, entablature and all the parts of architecture.

July 2nd, Wednesday. Arrived at Colorado City. It is the capital of the territory. It has about 50 houses, but not more than a dozen have the appearance of being inhabited. The inhabitants of the city and southern part of the territory wish to retain the seat of the government there, but the citizens of Denver want it removed there, and I expect will eventually accomplish their object as they have more influence. Pikes Peak is 1½ or 2 miles from Colorado City and is 12,000 ft. to 12,500 ft. high above the level of the sea. The ascent is both difficult and dangerous and the air so rare and cold that some who have ascended have had their health permanently injured. One man died immediately or within a few days after having ascended it. In the valley it is very healthy. A citizen who has resided their 2 or 3 yrs. said she knew of no sickness or not one death from disease during that time. Several persons that had come there in delicate health had recovered. The springs in which the fontain rises are soda. They are not hot, but are called boiling because that escape of the gas causes the water to bubble up as if it were boiling. The taste of soda is very perceptible. They possess also a strong acid taste. With tartaric acid and sugar, they told us it made good soda water. We had no tartaric acid but took some vinegar off of pickles. It effervessed and would have been quite palatable, but as Mr. Tootle remarked “it was too pickly” Very nice soda biscuit can be made with the water. There are 3 soda springs and one chalybeate.8 Some pretended to detect the taste of iron, but all of the springs tasted alike to me excepting the smallest one was the strongest. Where ever a hole is dug near it fills with water and bubbles up just as the springs. The bottom of the springs are white from the deposit of soda. The Indians and Spaniards and all the inhabitants from New Mexico and Colorado Territory who are sick resort to it for their health. It is said to accomplish some wonderful ones, cured inflamatory diseases. I was told a woman who had been confined to her bed for years with rhumatism was entirely cured in a few weeks. They certainly are a great and very interesting curiosity. Another place of interest was the Garden of the Gods. It is an opening between two ridges of the mountains and entirely surrounded by them, containing numbers of red, pink, white and lead colored rocks of immense size, indeed all sizes from a few ft. to 300 & 400 ft. high and as many in bredth. Others are columns and of every shape. The red ones are old red sandstone and a concrete sandstone. The bluish white and lead color limestone and the lead white gypsum. The entrance is not wider than 16 or 18, between rock from 200 to 400 ft. high. At one side is a pure white one of gypsum and beside it a greyish white limestone. The other side of the entrance is a red one. Some resemble the ruins of castles and the pink and white beside the red ones bring out the different colors so distinctly that the effect is much more beautiful and imposing. After you enter is an immense old red sandstone one 3 or 400 ft high and as broad. A few ft. in front is a pink one about half the size, in a line north is another immense one light-greyish limestone with veins of pink and red; a few yards from it another the same size, red sandstone; and in front of it a gypsum one of lead white color and so they are, over the whole garden; small ones interspaced between the large ones. It is most aptly named, just such a place as one would suppose the Gods might once have inhabited, but now in ruins. The most beautiful flowers in it too. In one of the red sandstone rocks there is a cave. The stratum of old red sandstone must be at least two miles wide extending north and south, sometimes upheaved in long ridges just like a wall along the ridges of the mountain 10 or 12 ft. high, other times in isolated rocks or in clusters. One of the party killed a rattlesnake at the mouth of the cave. We returned to the hotel, took dinner, and left for Denver by the same route we had come there. We had intended taking the road that led through South Park, visiting the Buckskin Tan, Tarryall, and Idahoe mines and returning by Clear Creek, the scenery being represented as very fine. On account of our time being limited, we were compelled to abandon it and return by the road we came. When we got to Colorado [City] one of our mules was so much fatigued as to alarm us and Mr. Tootle feared travelling through the mountains might unfit them for the journey home as soon as he was compelled to take it. It was with great regret we turned around. Another circumstance that had considerable weight in deciding us was the number and kind of flies. They were so large and had annoyed the mules so very much causing them to bleed a great deal. A Mexican that came down the mountain, the road we had intended taking, said they were much worse up there and had nearly killed his pony, the blood was dripping from all over it.

Left Colorado 3 o’clock P. M., Thursday, 3rd of July. Stopped at a house where an old acquaintance of Mr. Tootle lived and staid all night. In the morning his daughter went with us to the top of the highest mountain in that neighborhood. We could look down upon the others and over the prairie as far as the eye could see. It was grand. Many of the mountains were level on top. As we came down, we gathered some beautiful specimens of quartz and other stones. I never enjoyed anything so much in my life. Over the whole side of the hill, around all the trees for yards were laying these beautiful stones, crystals as clear as glass, pure white, yellow, red, green, brown, black, all colors and all sizes, polished smooth as glass and bright by friction. They looked more like french candies than anything I could compare them to. I gathered first my dress skirt full, then my under skirts, so heavy I was loaded under the weight. Mr. Tootle gathered great many too, but he was satisfied with fewer, or rather he knew we could not carry all the stones on the mountains home, so we selected the most singular looking and threw the others away. It almost made the tears come to have to leave them behind. Started after dinner and travelled to within 20 miles of Denver. So passed the 4th of July. More real pleasure than any 4th ever brought to me before. Yesterday evening saw a porcupine. It was very large. In running, curved its body up and down like a measuring worm. It ran so fast, Mr. Tootle could not get his gun in time to shoot it.

Saturday, July 5th. The man at whose ranch we stopped took us to where there were two petrified trees. The trunk where it broke off from the root was lying just where it was broken. The whole tree was not petrified, but just 3 or 4 yds of it in different places, yet just in the line it fell. The ground was covered with pieces of wood you could not tell were petrifacations until you took them in your hand. The second tree was more beautifully petrified, where there was more pitch in it. It was petrified harder, of richer colors and parts of it where there was a good deal of pitch was crystalized. The tree was broken off about a yd from the ground, there was the old trunk and the fallen tree laying for 2 or 3 yds with the splinter sticking up and broken just as a live tree. Both were fine. We brought a number of specimens away. Mr. Tootle sent in an old chunk which must have weighed 60 or 70 pounds which you could not distinguish from an old chunk of wood, but by the weight and touching it. Reached Denver Saturday evening perfectly delighted with our trip. The grass in the mountains is a peculiar kind containing so much nutriment that it is not necessary to feed the cattle even in winter when the snow is on the ground. They get at it through the snow. The soil is sandy so the snow does not lay long. In the mountains the climate is very mild in winter excepting on the elevated parts. Persons generally locate between the ridges in the gulches. The country is very healthy and but little disease. The air is so rare even at Denver people feel sleepy all the time and in place of rising in the morning refreshed feel languid. I was told by some persons that in the period of 3 or 4 years, ones become seriously debilitated and others contradicted it. In the Rocky Mountains besides gold are silver and lead mines. In the South Park, salt is made from the salt lakes. The mountain ranges are 250 miles. When emigration first commenced here and before roads were made, they went over the tops of the mountains, up one side and down the other. Frequently it was so steep they would have to cut down the largest trees they could find and chain them to the wheels of their wagons to hold them back. I was told all the houses of Golden City (which is at the base on the Plains) was built of these trees. Men were at the foot of the mountains ready to seize them directly they were loosened from the wagons, would hew them into logs, then sell them. Learned a new and appropriate name for Yankeys. A servant of all departments at Colorado city, a wild, harum-scarum, kind-hearted girl, they called Texas because she came from there, though born in Mississippi, said “I would die for a Southerner, but would not give a cent for a Pinch back Yankey”.

July 14. Reluctantly and after a most delightful visit turned our backs on Denver and the Rocky Mountains. The wind blew terribly for several hours so that neither veil or goggles protected us from the dust. Indeed, Mr. Tootle could not see to drive, but had to turn off of the road and stand still for 10 minutes at a time. It was short fortunately. They told us at the first station they seldom had such severe storms. Here they said it hailed and the hails were the size of a hen’s egg. Cut to pieces everything in the garden. It was very cold during and after the storm.

July 15. Camped at Bijou station.9 They were going to tear it down the next day. All the women had left. The men offered us the use of the kitchen so we cooked supper there.

July 16, Wednesday. Camped at Bijou Creek. Passed the Junction at 4 o’clock. Camped at a ranch 6 miles beyond in Alkali Bottom. Winged ants collected in swarms on the top, front and back of the wagon just like bees when they swarm. Mr. Tootle forgot to bring the meat he bought in Denver, so we had or could not buy any fresh meat. We got very tired of salt meat. We depended upon buying butter and potatoes along the road, and did not succeed in purchasing any meat.

July 17. Breakfasted at Beaver Creek Station. Have been annoyed by gnats. They sting severely though not larger than the point of a pin. At first I mistook them for a speck of black sand. A storm came up and we stopped at the American Ranch Station10 until it was over. Got our supper there.

Saturday, July 19th. Mr. Tootle shot a wild duck. We are going to have it for dinner tomorrow. Last night came into mosquito region. They were in the thickest swarms I ever saw. Flocks of black birds follow the horses and cattle, settle on the backs, fly around them to catch the mosquitos and flys.

Monday, July 21st. Camped Saturday night on the river. Had no drinking water, so Sunday had drive to a ranch 6 miles ahead. Did not start until 6 o’clock as we had so short a distance to travel. We had no light bread, no butter, or milk, nothing to fry the duck in. When we got to the ranch, no one lived there, but a man, and we could get nothing but water, and that was no good. They told us the next ranch was 8 miles, so we concluded to drive there. There we could not even get water, so had to drive 5 miles farther to the Animal Springs. It was one o’clock when we got there. Cooked our duck and enjoyed our dinner. Tried to make soup of the legs and wings but failed. Though I watched it closely, the water boiled away and the duck burnt. Breakfasted at Gills Station.11 No one lives there but a Frenchman. His house was so clean and neat that we cooked our breakfast there and ate it in the room.

Thursday July 24. Camped near a ranch. A rain storm came up. The first we were in. We went into the house to make milk soup just as it commenced to rain. Went back to the wagon before 9 o’clock and it was still raining and dark as Egypt. I had just that evening spread clean sheets on the bed. When I stepped over the seat my foot went into a puddle of water. I put the other down. It went into another puddle. Every place I put my hand was either wet or in water. The matches were so damp they would not light. Mr Tootle and Warren had gone to feed and fix the mules for the night. It seemed an age before they came back. The fleas were devouring me, so all I could do was to stand or sit in the puddles of water and catch and murder fleas until they came back. I felt savage enough to murder anything even myself. When Mr. Tootle came back and lighted the lamp, we found everything wet, excepting his blanket shawl. Not a very pleasant prospect for the night, however, we got things arranged more comfortably than I had any expectation, thanks to Mr. Tootle’s ingenuity. We turned the wet side of the matress down, spread some soiled clothes for a sheet (we had but 2 pairs of sheets, one was soiled and I had put it to the side of the wagon to keep out the air, the others were on the bed when the rain commenced). We used Mr. Tootle’s shawl for a cover.

July 25, Friday, Had a storm in the middle of the night. It thundered and lightninged terribly, rained very hard. Mr. Tootle arranged the wagon so we did not get wet. Arrived at Fort Kearney a little after 3 P. M. Bought some meat, tough and not nice. Took supper at the last house on the stage road.

July 26, Saturday. Saw a fine field of corn about 20 miles east of Kearney. The man said it was put in with the plough and had not been touched since. A little Frenchman had a bed of melons the other [side?] of Kearney, they looked flourishing, but he said they required a great deal of attention. He had to water them every day. The soil beyond Fort Kearney they do not attempt to cultivate excepting upon the islands of the Platte which are more fertile. Along the sand hills wild cherries grow on bushes from 1 ft to 1½ ft. high. They are the size of our common sour cherry, but taste exactly like our wild cherry. They have plumbs that grow in the same way, some on bushes as high as 5 or 6 ft. both red and yellow. At Colorado City, they have a blue plumb that grows like these cherries.

July 28 Monday. It is intensely hot today, warmer than yesterday which was the first day we experienced any inconvenience from the heat. The mosquitos swarm around us at night and the fleas almost devour me. Last night, Mr. Tootle made a fire in the frying pan and smoked the mosquitos out of the wagon and me too. I did not know which was more disagreeable. Yesterday, swarms of winged ants settled upon our wagon. There must have been millions, they were smaller than the ones that visited us before. Rode 25 miles yesterday. We thought it 10 or 12 miles to the next station and concluded it would not be more unprofitable riding a short distance than loll around and sleep when we got tired reading. To ride awhile would be a little variety and rest us, but the station was twice the distance we were told.

July 29, Tuesday. Travelled 50 miles yesterday from 4 o’clock in the morning until 10 at night, stopping only 2½ hours for breakfast. We took our supper in the wagon as we rode along.

July 30, Wednesday. Arrived at Salt Creek, 3½. Our first camping place as we went out. Salt Creek rises in salt lakes. Within the last year a quantity of salt has been made from the water of the lakes. Last Sunday, Mr. Tootle resolved not to chew anymore. He had been breaking off gradually for the last 3 or 4 months. For a few days he felt nervous and badly, but now feels better (Insert: June 14, 1863, has been smoking ever since he returned).

Thursday, July 31st Mr. Tootle smoked one pipe yesterday, another today, the first since we have been married. Arrived at Plattsmouth about 4 P M.

Monday, Aug 4th. Left Plattsmouth for Sidney [Iowa], Had to cross the Missouri in a row boat. Felt a little nervous. Returned to St. Joe from our visit to Pikes Peak Monday, August 11th, 1862.

1 Greenish-yellow color.

2 Cured and salted side of bacon.

3 Before what we know as “standard time,” people went by “sun time.” they set their time pieces at noon as they traveled westward. If there was a town clock, it was set everyday at noon. It was in 1873 that Dr. C.F. Dowd, principal of Temple Grover Seminary for Young Ladies, Saratoga Springs, N.Y., proposed the idea of “standard time,” i.e., four time zones across the United States. It was adopted by the railroads on Nov. 18, 1883.

4 The Right Rev. Joseph Cruickshank Talbot of the Protestant Episcopal Church was consecrated Bishop of the Northwest in 1859. His giant diocese was composed of Nebraska, Colorado, the Dakotas, Utah, Montana, and eastern Idaho. He liked to call himself “Bishop of All Out Doors.” He was also to look in on conditions in New Mexico and Arizona. “ Joseph Cruikshank Talbot,” Appleton’s Cyclopedia of American Biography (New York, 1889) VI, pp. 21–22; Myra Ellen Jenkins, “New Mexico — 1863,“Historical Magazine of the Protestant Episcopal Church, XXXII, No. 1 (March 1963). pp. 221–23.

5 Governor John Evans of Colorado Territory had been appointed by President Abraham Lincoln. Marshall Sprague, Colorado, A Bicentennial History (New York, 1976). pp. 36ff.

6 Two fine references to the Colorado Gold Rush, its miners and mining camps, are Phyllis Flanders Dorset, The New Eldorado: The Story of Colorado’s Gold and Silver Rushes (New York, 1970), and Muriel S. Wolle, Stampede to Timberline: The Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of Colorado (Boulder, 1950).

7 Here she comes pretty close to the name given to Fountain Creek, which early French explorers had dubbed La Fontaine Qui Boutlle (The Spring that Boils), so called because of bubbling springs at its head. It is now Fountain El Paso Co. “Place Names in Colorado,” Colorado Magazine, XVIII, No. 1 (Jan. 1941), p. 33.

8 Iron salts.

9 Bijou Station, CO., was one of the best known stopping places on the Overland Stage Line. Ben Holladay had just taken it over in late 1861. Bijou was 20 miles from the next station to the east, Beaver Creek, the longest distance apart of any of the stations. Frank A. Root and William E. Connolley, The Overland Stage to California (Topeka, KA., 1901) pp. 70, 102, and passim.

10 American Ranch Station in Colorado was also known as Kelly’s Station. Ibid., pp. 102, 222.

11 Here she probably means Gilman’s Station in Nebraska, another important stage stop, Ibid. See especially the fold-in map at the end of Root and Connelley’s book.