Journal of a Mormon Woman, 1863

Mary Elizabeth Lightner

INTRODUCTION

The journal published here is a strange mixture of a day-by-day diary and a running commentary, much like the “Commentaries” of Keturah Belknap in our first volume. It is mostly in the past tense such as “we slept on our baggage,” and “The captain has built a breastwork of sacks of grain.” However a number of references are written in the present tense such as “One of our passengers has just saved a man from drowning,” and, writing about Florence, Nebraska, “This is the gathering place for those who intend crossing the plains…”

A careful analysis of the text of the entire document, especially her usage of both the present and past tenses, shows us that her reminiscences were written, as were the diary sections, while on the journey.

Mary Elizabeth Rollins was born on April 9, 1818, in Lima, New York. Her rich life of 95 years ended with her death on December 17, 1913, in Minersville, Beaver County, Utah. She was married to Adam Lightner on August 11, 1838, in Liberty, Clay County, Missouri.

Mary took a keen interest in a new religious movement that was taking place in that area: Mormonism. She was baptized into the faith of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in October 1830. Her husband never joined her in that religion throughout their long life together. He died on August 19, 1905.

Mary was sealed to the founder of Mormonism, Joseph Smith, in a “consecrated marriage” in February 1842. Adam Lightner seems not to have objected.

The Lightners lived through the Mormon tribulations both before and after the death of Joseph Smith on June 27, 1844. His death caused a scattering of members of the faith. The Lightners were among them. Adam Lightner was a carpenter and plied his trade, so the family traveled up and down the Mississippi valley, settling in different communities where building was going on. He also worked occasionally in general stores. They lived for a time in such places as Nauvoo, Illinois; Far West, Missouri; Hudson and Willow River, Wisconsin; and finally in Stillwater, Minnesota. Through the years ten children were born to them. Three of them died in early childhood. The following lived to maturity: Caroline Kezia, b. Oct. 18, 1840, Missouri; George Algernon, b. Mar. 23, 1842, Illinois; Florentine, b. Mar. 23, 1844, Illinois; John Horace, b. Feb. 19, 1847, Illinois; Elizabeth, b. Apr. 3, 1849, Wisconsin; Algernon Sidney, b. Mar. 23, 1853, Minnesota; Charles, b. Mar. 17, 1857, Wisconsin.

It was while they were at the gathering place, Florence, Nebraska, that Mary Elizabeth’s brother-in-law showed up to help them on their journey. She writes, “On the 20th of June my sister’s husband,. Edwin Bingham, arrived to take us to the valley.” Edwin Bingham had become a citizen of Beaver, Beaver County, Utah. The federal census taker visited their home during the summer of 1860 and listed Edwin Bingham, 28-years-old, a farmer, and his wife, Phoebe J., age 23. There were three children at that time: Edwin F., age 4; Bernand A., age 3 (male); and Phoebe C., age 1. There was another person, much beloved by Mary Lightner: that being her mother, Keziah Keturah Van Benthuysen, who was evidently living with the Binghams. The census taker listed this lady as age 64. He just gave up on the long name and shortened it to Kezia Berk.

When the party reached Beaver County, Utah, Mary’s brother, James Henry Rollins (called Henry by his family) came out to meet them. He and his wife, Evalina, were living in Minersville, Utah, a busy little lead mining town surrounded by good agricultural land. Henry and Evalina had traveled to Utah in 1848. In 1849 he had joined the gold rush to California, traveling first south out of Salt Lake City, then west to San Bernardino, where he helped to establish that city as a Mormon bastion. He did not stay in California long, but returned to Utah to settle in Minersville. He served as Bishop of Minersville from 1860–1869.

Henry dictated a “Recollection” of the California journey in 1898. It is in the Utah State Historical Society. It was published in 1954 in Journals of the Forty-Niners, Salt Lake to Los Angeles by the Arthur H. Clark Company, volume II, pp. 261–68, of the Far West and the Rockies Series, edited by LeRoy R. and Ann W. Hafen.

We have chosen the version of Mary Elizabeth Lightner’s journal published in the Utah Genealogical and Historical Magazine, XVII (Salt Lake City, 1926). There are other versions, typewritten and printed, but, after careful study, we feel that this one is authentic.

PERSONS NAMED BY MARY ELIZABETH LIGHTNER

 

Br. Martin was probably Jesse B. Martin, whose diary is to be found in the Huntington Library, San Marino, California.

John Riggs Murdock was an energetic overlander, who was known to all as “Captain Murdock” for he was so active in guiding newcomers over the plains to Utah. He made eleven round trips and brought more emigrants overland than any other leader. Andrew Jenson, ed., Latter-Day Saint Biographical Encyclopedia, I (Salt Lake City, 1901), p. 305.

Ziba Peterson was one of those under whose preaching Mary Lightner had become a Mormon. He had been sent by Joseph Smith to take the new message to the “Lamanites,” i.e. the American Indians. In this he failed and so was disciplined by the church. H.H. Bancroft, History of Utah (San Francisco, 1890), p. 75.

Br. Stork is so-far unidentified.

Brigham Young, Jr., was the son of the Mormon leader and Mary Ann Angell, born December 18, 1836, in Kirtland, Ohio. He would become a member of the Council of Twelve Apostles in 1868 and president in 1890. Jensen, op. cit., pp. 121–26.

SOURCES

Principal sources for Mary Elizabeth Lightner and her family are as follows:

Hubert Howe Bancroft, History of Utah (San Francisco, 1890).

Davis Bitton, Guide to Mormon Diaries and Autobiographies (Provo, Utah, 1977), pp. 212–13.

Kate B. Carter, “Mary Elizabeth Rollins Lightner,” in Our Pioneer Heritage, Vol. V (Salt Lake City, 1962), pp. 305–25.

LeRoy R. and Ann W. Hafen, Journals of Forty-Niners Salt Lake to Los Angeles, in Far West and the Rockies Series Historical Series, Vol. II (Glendale, CA, 1954), pp. 261–68.

Andrew Jensen, ed., Latter-Day Saints Biographical Encyclopedia, (Salt Lake City, 1901).

Merrill J. Mattes, Platte River Narratives (Urbana, IL, 1988), p. 582.

Third Generation Records, microfilm, South Salem, Oregon, Stake Library, L.D.S. Church.

Utah Genealogical and Historical Magazine, XVII (July 1926), pp. 193–205; XVII (Oct. 1926), pp. 250–60.

Richard S. Van Wagoner, Mormon Polygamy, a History (Salt Lake City, 1986).

THE JOURNAL

On May 25, 1863, we embarked on board the steamer “Canada” for St. Louis, and took up our quarters on the lower deck.1 All was neat and clean and we slept on our baggage. On the 26th we commenced taking on wheat, until the boat was heavily freighted. We had no chance to cook. Charles and Adam were very sick with the measles, and no chance to make them comfortable. We came to Rock Island Bridge,2 which is a dangerous place for boats to go through. At the draw of the R.R. Bridge, a number of vessels lay ruined nearby. Many of our passengers were badly frightened, for we attempted the passage five times before we succeeded in getting through. On the 28th, seventeen horses were taken on the lower deck, which made the atmosphere very impure. In the evening, five or six soldiers came aboard with foul company. Brute beasts in the form of men fill the place, and the scene is almost intolerable. On the 29th, we are lying at Montrose [Iowa] unloading grain. Nauvoo3 lies on the opposite side of the river and looks deserted enough. One corner of that once beautiful temple, alone remained, a monument of former beauty and grandeur. It was raining hard or I should have crossed the river to see it. But as I looked at it from this point, and thought of what it once was, blossoming forth in beauty, with a population of seventeen thousand inhabitants, I felt to mourn over its present desolation. I thought, “Can it be that I shall see the place no more? Where once the Prophet stood and moved the hearts of the people to worship God according to the new and everlasting covenant, which had been revealed through him to the people in this generation, and where he gave himself a martyr for the cause he taught.” One of our passengers has just saved a man from drowning, he was sinking for the third time, when rescued. My oldest boy, John, was quite sick, and throat very sore; the other children better, but cross. On a Saturday we arrived in St. Louis; it was raining hard. We went aboard the steamer, “Fanny Ogden,” for St. Joseph. We were to have a stove to cook by, laid in a supply of provisions, and fancied we should be half way comfortable, but it proved the reverse. We were transferred to the upper deck until the storing of Government supplies was completed, then five hundred mules and horses were taken aboard; consequently we had to remain on the upper deck all the way from St. Louis to Omaha — wind and rain for company; nothing but bread and dried beef to eat, as the deck hands had stolen our vegetables. A soldier was put on board for home, who had lost his leg in battle; another very sick. We sat near a long box for two or three days, that contained a corpse. Our progress was slow, half the time on sand bars.

We met a steamer coming down, saying the rebels were gathering in great numbers and would fire on us. We had a cannon and soldiers on board for our protection; for myself I felt no fear. The captain has built a breast work of sacks of grain and tobacco boxes. All hands prepared for action. June 3rd all was excitement, and a sharp lookout was kept, looking for the enemy every moment. At Lexington [Missouri] the town was almost destroyed by cannon. Houses, partly demolished; it was here my husband’s brother, a Unionist, was killed. We passed a gloomy night, some on trunks doubled up any way to get a few moment’s rest; but strange to relate, not a shot was fired at us, although in a rebel community. We passed Liberty landing and Independence; things remain about as they were twenty years ago. We stopped at Kansas City; plenty of Mexicans were there, loading teams for Mexico. On June 6th, we arrived at St. Joseph, all tolerably well, considering that we had not had a chance to change our clothes or undress since leaving Minnesota. We found the river banks lined with Sioux Indians, who were being removed from Minnesota by the Government, for their massacre of the whites.

June 7th, we laid all day at this place; in the evening the Indians had a pow wow dance. We then boarded the “Emilie” for Omaha — some saints came aboard at the same time, bound for Utah. I felt to rejoice, for I had not seen the face of a member of the Church for over 18 years. Monday we landed at Omaha in a heavy rain storm; rode to Florence, six miles, without a cover from the rain, and stopped at a cabin, wet through. We had no fire and no chance to make one, so laid down in damp bed clothes; next night had the cholera and was sick three or four days, and my babe had bowel complaint very bad. Thursday some immigrants arrived with the small pox. Two are dead and ten more sick. One of the number spent the evening with us; we shook hands with them; they said nothing about the disease; the next day they were sent to the hills, where tents were provided for them. On Saturday seven hundred persons from England arrived here enroute for Salt Lake. This is the gathering place for those who intend crossing the plains. Today, saints from Africa and Denmark arrived here. Their tents were scattered over the hills, and when the camp fires were lit up at night the scene was beautiful to behold. It makes me think how the children of Israel must have looked in the days of Moses, when journeying in the wilderness; also to see some hundred mules in an enclosure, all sleek and fat — looks like prosperity indeed. The train of five hundred teams from Salt Lake are hourly looked for. Three deaths occurred in the Danish camp, and some three or four weddings. June 15th, the children have picked three dollars worth of wild strawberries, that helped us considerable. On the 20th my sister’s husband, Edwin Bingham arrived to take us out to the valley. We were glad to see him. Sunday fixed all day for a march in the morning. We started; Monday night we camped out, and such a night — thunder, lightning and wind, but we slept, or rather stayed in our wagons, did not get very wet, but felt rather stiff — we cooked our breakfast, milked our cow, dried our things, and were ready for another day’s tramp. One company of 50 or 60 wagons is ahead of us, and a good many behind us. It is quite amusing to see a corral formed and the cattle driven into the center of the corral of wagons to keep them safe. Each man unyoking his own, all done in the best order. We had a good man for captain of our company. I don’t think we could have got a better one. We have meetings every evening. July 3rd, passed a very hot day, up with the dawn, cook breakfast with buffalo manure for fuel — do up our work and travel sixteen miles, hard wind most of the time. Tired out when camped for the night. One wagon upset in a mud hole, no one hurt.

July 4th. All well. Caught up with the company ahead, John R. Murdock, captain; had a dance in the evening. Traveled well the next day, saw a variety of beautiful flowers. 10th. Nothing of interest has occurred, the weather very hot. Had another dance, we are on a large prairie, saw a buffalo herd, and passed through a dog village. Cunning little fellows, dodging in and out of their burrows. Nothing of moment has occurred for four or five days. The prairie is one vast desert as far as game is concerned, except now and then a rabbit or sage hen. One of the brethren killed an antelope and gave me a nice piece. Friday camped at Pawnee Springs, the water boils up from a great depth, there are four of them, but I am told that a few weeks ago, there were but two. The flowers are very pretty and of all colors.

18th. All well, warm when the sun is out, but chilly under a cloud.

22nd. Had a thunder shower, no sickness as yet.

23rd. One man sick — at noon, a babe belonging to some of the saints from Australia, died very suddenly. We have had a hard time today, traveling through sand hills, had to double teams.

24th. Mr. Lightner quite unwell.

25th. Very hot; traveled through a great deal of sand, saw plenty of prickly pear, it does very well to look at, but not good to handle or walk over. Three Indians came into camp, driving two yoke of oxen, which our captain traded for, as they belonged to the company ahead of us and will be given to their owners. One of our wagons broke down, which delayed us three hours.

27th. He is better, but babe very sick with canker and bowel complaint.

28th. Morning quite foggy, passed some natural curiosities, one called the court house, from its resemblance to that edifice, also a large rock formed like a church steeple and called the chimney. This part of the country is the most barren and desolate that I ever saw. Nothing to relieve the eye but sky and sand and hills, expected to see some buffalo but am disappointed.

29th. Passed a small government train from the fort, often meet a few persons passing along in this dreary place, as though they were in the States.

30th. Passed a trading post, three tents and a few trees, which did my eyes good, after seeing so much sand and barren soil.

31st. It has blown sand dust, enough to choke one, all day. Passed two deserted stations, and four graves of immigrants.

August 1st. Among the hills and rocks most of the day, and dust an inch thick. Saw the telegraph station; it consists of two log houses, outbuildings and a good well of water which was worth a great deal to us. Nothing but hills and sage-brush to be seen. No grass save in patches along the river. Camped in dust as if in the middle of the street in the States. Baked a shortcake, fried some bacon and had tea for supper after dark. Tired almost to death — lost the children’s pet rabbit today.

2nd. A train of government wagons and soldiers passed us to settle some difficulty with the Indians and gold seekers. Our train stopped this afternoon to fix wagons and do our washing, the young folks danced and played until twelve at night — we always have prayers in the evening.

3rd. Saw some returned Californians, who spoke well of the Mormons in the Valley. We lost one of our cows from drinking alkali water. Saw six more dead.

4th. Lost an ox. More sick from the cause. A child fell out of a wagon and the wheels passed over both limbs, but was not much hurt. Passed sixteen dead cattle, from the other train. This is a heavy loss.

8th. Came to the telegraph station, quite a little place. Saw a large freight train, had coffee, bread, and thickened milk for dinner. We fixed up and passed through the aforsaid train; all well.

10th. Come to another station, crossed the Platte River Bridge, which is a good structure. Camped on a large hill, more dead cattle. The prospects look gloomy enough. Elizabeth crazy all night with the tooth ache — been so for two days.

11th. The eleventh of August, the anniversary of our marriage — twenty-five years of joys and sorrow have passed over my head since then. Years never to be forgotten. Came to what is termed the “Devil’s Back Bone.” It consists of a long range of rocks, and looks as though they were thrown up from beneath, and pointing up like ice in a jamb. It is a singular sight. A company of gold seekers camped near us. Our company lost more cattle. Came to a saleratus lake, which looked like ice in the distance. We cut out a great quantity of it to take with us, as the captain said there was none in the valley.

13th. Passed another station, also “Devil’s Gate,” which consists of two mountains of rock so near together that a wagon can pass between them. The walls on each side are perpendicular, rather sloping on the other side, and so high that a man on the top looks like a small boy.

15th. Had breakfast of bacon, fried cakes and coffee, traveled on a good road for miles, then stopped — cooked dinner, wind blowing gale of sand all over us. I think we will get the proverbial peck of dust before we get through — our cow sick, no milk for two or three days. Some sage hens and rabbits were killed today. We have had fresh meat but once since leaving the Mississippi River.

16th. Sand and gravel all day, feel sick and cross; for if there is a bad place in camp, we are sure to get it. Antelope was killed today.

17th. Saw mountains covered with snow in the distance; up and down hills all day; heavy wind; camped in a good place for a wonder, writing by fire light. Danes are at prayers by themselves — our folks the same. While I, poor sinner, am baking bread. In fact, I don’t much like our preacher. He strokes his beard to much, and speaks too low.

18th. Saw a lot of antelope; two were killed. The captain gave me a nice piece. Saw a camp of immigrants close by, another not far off. Camped on a hill for dinner. The hill was covered with small black rocks. It is a beautiful day, ice formed in our buckets as thick as a knife blade. More game was killed today, but little or no sickness has befallen us so far, the captain says we are greatly blessed to what some of the companies were. I hope we will continue to be, until our journey ends. We have been in sight of snow for two or three days. It looks cool for the month of August. We are on the highest land on this side of the Mississippi. Here, on the eastern side of the mountains the rivers flow toward the Atlantic, and on the western side, to the Pacific. The scenery is grand. A bear was killed weighing near four hundred pounds, and was divided among our company of sixty persons. I could not stomach it. I don’t believe they were made for man’s food. We are now in Utah, but I don’t see much change in the face of the land for the better; but I can’t see much, as I have been quite sick for six or seven days. Crossed Green River Sunday evening, it is a beautiful stream of water, and plenty of trees on its banks. Two trains are close behind us, which makes us hurry to keep the front place, for the roads are so dusty we can hardly see our front teams. Stopped at a station where our men were required to take the oath of allegiance to the United States government, our wagons were searched for powder, etc. I have not much to say for the past week, as I have been very sick all the time, was administered to by Brothers Stork and Martin — and was helped immediately. We saw a stage pass twice yesterday, and more travel today — which makes it look more like being in the land of the living. Snow all around in the mountains, only think of it; snow near, and yet almost smothered with dust. A stage passed with two of our missionaries, one was Brigham Young, Jr. Arrived at Fort Bridger, a nice place, good and substantial building. It looks comfortable. The days warm the nights cold. Last evening we bought some onions and potatoes, which were quite a treat. They did us good, as we were getting the canker bad, from so long a diet of salt pork, but I trust our journey is nearly over. The earth at this place is of a reddish color, and the mountains look somewhat greener than they have for some time.

31st. Passed through some mountains in a round about way, they look solemn in their grandeur; rising one above another, and their verdure of many colored hues and rocks of various shades looked beautiful to me; if I had the materials and time I should paint some of them. One of the curiosities of this place is a spring of tar. The people get it for their wagons. The weather cold but pleasant. Passed a mail station, also a field of grain. It looked nice, but I should not like to live there. There were some singular looking rocks, very large, they appeared like huge blocks of clay, sprinkled full of pebbles, and inclined to be red color. The earth in many places looked like burnt brick — near is a large cave in the rock, it has a singular appearance. It is called the cascade.4 Some fruit was brought in at famine prices — apples eleven cents apiece.

September 1st. Passed through Echo Canyon. The scenery is beautiful to behold, such rocks I never saw. Saw a few houses and potato patches, also a mail station which looks comfortable. I think from the appearance of things, Uncle Samuel feeds his men and animals pretty well. I feel weak today, from not having proper food (we have been on short rations for seven or eight days) and breathing in so much alkali dust. Camped near the town of Weber. Came over a narrow road on the side of a mountain. It looked dangerous. Came to W. Kimball’s Ranch, he is rich in cattle and sheep.

September 3rd. Rained last night for the first time since we left the Platte River. I hope it has laid the dust. I think it is the fourth rain we have had on our journey so far.

14th. Camped at a station in dust enough to smother one.

15th. Arrived in Salt Lake City on Emigration Square. All well — went through some of the streets; there were some beautiful houses, orchards, and shade trees.

17th. Started south to Beaver County. My brother, Henry Rollins, whom I had not seen for twenty years, with his wife Eveline, met us, and conveyed us in his mule team south. Stopped at an old friend’s in Springville, had a nice time — heard from a good many old friend’s. Had plenty of fruit to eat. We traveled through a fine country. Saw some boiling springs, and some large cold springs, so deep no bottom has been discovered, and they are full of fish. We arrived in Minersville September 20th, 1863, and found my dear mother and sister Phebe, all well and glad to see us. We were thankful to find a home and friends, after an arduous journey of one thousand miles in an ox team — besides our trip on steamer from Stillwater, Minnesota, to St. Louis, then up the Missouri to Omaha.

1 The starting point of their journey was Stillwater, Minnesota.

2 Rock Island, Illinois, lies opposite Davenport, Iowa. The island is the largest on the Mississippi. The famous railroad bridge had been built in 1855.

3 This was the Mormon Zion, which they had built in 1839 after they were expelled from Missouri. It stood on the east bank of the Mississippi in Illinois. It was at one time, 1845, the largest city in Illinois (population 20,000). After the death of Joseph Smith in 1844 the Mormons abandoned it to fire and demolition.

4 We have been unable to locate this cave. It is not mentioned in the sources on caves in the Great Salt Lake region. See Ellen Hundley, “ From Utah to Texas in 1856,” in Vol. VII of this series, p. 136, fn. 1, for a discussion of caves of the Salt Lake region.