Pasta

Fettuccine with Ricotta and Crushed Peas

Green Fettuccine with Spring Vegetable Ragu

Green Fettuccine with Asparagus, Basil and Butter

Fettuccine with Roasted Pepper Sauce

Fettuccine with Lemon Cream

Spaghetti with Artichokes, Peas, and Eggs

Spaghetti Calabrese with Pancetta, Bell Pepper, and Tomato Sauce

Shoemaker’s Spaghetti

Spaghetti alla Spaghettata (with Red Wine, Garlic, and Olives)

Whole Wheat Linguine with Kale and Chickpeas

“Angry” Sicilian Pasta

Bow Ties with Mushrooms and Tomatoes

One-Pot “Dragged” Penne

Penne with Zucchini and Herbs

Seven-P Pasta

Penne with Butternut Squash and Bacon

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Spicy Escarole, Tomatoes, and Olives

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Broccoli and Olive Paste

Rotelle with Spicy Cauliflower Ragu

Orecchiette with Potatoes and Arugula

Eggplant Lasagna

Mushroom Ravioli with Pine Nut, Butter, and Sage Sauce

Fresh Egg Pasta

Fresh Spinach Pasta

Baked Spaghetti Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Smoked Mozzarella

Bow Ties Baked with Cauliflower and Cheese

Baked Pasta Fagioli

Two-in-One Penne with Mushrooms and Cream

Pasta Torta

Cavatelli with Erice Pesto and Eggplant

Pumpkin Gnocchi alla Romana

Basil-Ricotta Gnocchi with Tomato-Butter Sauce

Beet and Ricotta Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Cream Sauce

Gorgonzola Cream Sauce

Fettuccine with Ricotta and Crushed Peas

A package of frozen peas, a scallion, and some ricotta are all it takes to make this creamy sauce. It’s the kind of recipe everyone should have—a handful of ingredients that are quick to put together and look and taste great.

Serves 8

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 1 minute. With a strainer, scoop out the peas and drain well. Leave the water boiling.

Place the peas in a food processor, add the scallion, and puree until smooth. Add the ricotta, salt to taste, and a generous grinding of pepper and blend well.

Meanwhile, add the fettuccine to the boiling water, stir, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot.

Add the sauce and a little of the cooking water to the pasta and toss well. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the cheese.

Green Fettuccine with Spring Vegetable Ragu

Paola Di Mauro is a renowned Italian home cook and teacher who also owns a winery. For years famous American chefs traveled to her home just outside of Rome to learn her simple approach to cooking. Her kitchen is not equipped with expensive appliances, and her techniques are those of a home cook, not a professional, but when you taste her food, you have the sense that something magical has happened.

When I visited Paola and her son Armando at their winery, Colle Picchioni, she prepared a simple lunch that began with ravioli topped with this light fresh sauce, really a sauté of colorful vegetables that she grew on the farm. I usually serve the sauce on fresh fettuccine, but it is also good with cheese-filled ravioli.

Serves 4

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the scallions, bell pepper, carrot, and celery in the oil for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the water, peas, and a pinch of salt, bring to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender and most of the water has evaporated. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter, basil and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fettuccine, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set it aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the skillet and toss to coat. Add a little of the cooking water if needed.

Add the cheese, toss well, and serve immediately.

Green Fettuccine with Asparagus, Basil, and Butter

This green-on-green pasta is the essence of springtime, and I start to crave it as soon as the first crocuses appear. The combination of asparagus, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the delicate accent of basil is perfection.

In a recipe with just a few ingredients, it is important that all of them be top-notch. Even the butter, an ingredient we sometimes take for granted, should be the best. I am particularly fond of Kerrygold, which comes from Ireland and has more flavor than standard American brands.

As for the asparagus, thick spears benefit from peeling to make them more tender, skinny ones don’t.

Serves 8

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the scallions and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus, salt and pepper to taste, and the water, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until the asparagus is crisp-tender.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set it aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the pan with the asparagus, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, the basil, and parsley and toss well. If the pasta seems dry, stir in a little of the reserved cooking water.

Toss the pasta with half of the cheese, sprinkle the remaining cheese on top, and serve immediately.

Green Fettuccine with Asparagus, Basil, and Butter

Green Fettuccine with Asparagus, Basil, and Butter

Fettuccine with Roasted Pepper Sauce

Tomatoes are not the only ingredient you can use to make a thick, rich red sauce for pasta. Here, butter and Parmesan heighten the sweet, smoky flavor of pureed roasted red peppers. You can roast the peppers up to 3 days ahead of time, then cook the sauce and pasta in minutes before serving. This sauce is inspired by one made by a Tuscan cook who served it over farro.

Serves 6 to 8

Place the peppers and their juices in a food processor or blender, season with salt and pepper to taste, and puree until smooth.

In a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the pepper puree and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the sauce with a little of the cooking water and toss to coat. Add the cheese, toss well, and serve immediately.

Fettuccine with Lemon Cream

In Sorrento, in Southern Italy, gigantic lemons grow everywhere. From pastas to pastry, cooks have dozens of ways to use them. This recipe is a favorite of mine when I am craving something rich. The sauce is made in minutes from lemon juice and zest, cream, butter, basil, and Parmigiano. Fresh fettuccine is my first choice here.

Serves 6 to 8

Grate 1 teaspoon zest from the lemon. Halve the lemon and squeeze 2 tablespoons juice.

Melt the butter in a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients. Add the cream and lemon juice, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest, basil, and salt and pepper to taste, remove from the heat, and cover to keep warm.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fettuccine, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the sauce and toss well, adding a little of the cooking water if needed. Add the cheese, toss again, and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Artichokes, Peas, and Eggs

I always keep a few packages of frozen vegetables in the freezer: Peas, spinach, and artichoke hearts are essentials. Not only are they handy to have when fresh seasonal vegetables are scarce, but they also enable me to make a quick dish like this one on short notice.

Serves 4

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the onion in the oil over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the artichokes, water, and salt and pepper to taste, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the peas and cook for 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water, stir, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente.

In a small bowl, beat the eggs with ¼ cup of the cheese.

Scoop out some of the pasta cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta and toss it into the skillet with the vegetables. Add a little of the cooking water, drizzle with the egg mixture, and toss well until the spaghetti is coated with the sauce.

Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup cheese and serve immediately.

Spaghetti Calabrese with Pancetta, Bell Pepper, and Tomato Sauce

Calabria is Italy’s ground zero for hot chiles. Everybody with access to a bit of soil grows them, whether in big plots, backyards, or flower boxes. When fresh, the chiles are eaten raw in salads or sprinkled on pasta. In the fall, the plants are tied into bundles and hung in the sun to dry, to use in stews and soups.

This rustic pasta includes both sweet bell peppers and a fresh chile. I use jalapeños because they are easy to find and available year-round. Pancetta (cured pork belly) or guanciale (salt-cured pork cheek) is often used in this sauce, but you can substitute bacon or leave out the pork if you prefer.

Serves 6 to 8

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pepper halves and cook for 2 minutes, until slightly softened. Remove the peppers with a slotted spoon. Turn off the heat but reserve the water to cook the pasta.

Pat the peppers dry and cut them into 4 or 5 pieces each. Put them in a blender or food processor, along with the tomatoes, and puree until smooth.

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden. Stir in the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, or until softened.

Add the pepper mixture, jalapeño, and salt to taste, bring the sauce to a simmer, and cook for 10 minutes, or until slightly thickened.

Meanwhile, bring the reserved water back to a boil. Add the spaghetti, stir, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente.

Drain the spaghetti and add to the sauce, along with the basil. Toss well.

Sprinkle with the cheese and serve immediately.

Shoemaker’s Spaghetti

I’ve heard various explanations for why this Neapolitan pasta is attributed to shoemakers. The most logical one is that the busy workers at a shoe factory in Naples had little time and few ingredients at hand at mealtimes, and this speedy sauce was one that they could cook up in a jiffy.

At first glance, the ingredients seem familiar, but what makes this dish special is that the pasta is added to the sauce when slightly underdone, and so it becomes infused with the flavors of the sauce as it finishes cooking. Once the cheese is stirred in, the sauce becomes even creamier.

I like to use the imported canned cherry tomatoes known as piennolo tomatoes. They are becoming more widely available here (see Sources), and they are perfect for quick sauces like this one. If you can’t find them, use fresh cherry or grape tomatoes instead.

Serves 4 to 6

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic and red pepper in the oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste; if using fresh tomatoes, add the water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally and crushing the tomatoes with the back of a spoon, until the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes. Discard the garlic.

Once the water comes to a boil, add the pasta, stir, and cook, stirring often, until almost but not quite al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the cheeses to the simmering sauce, with a little of the cooking water, and stir until the cheese melts. Add the pasta to the sauce, tossing and turning it to coat completely. Cook, stirring gently, until the pasta is al dente.

Add the basil and serve immediately.

Spaghetti alla Spaghettata (with Red Wine, Garlic, and Olives)

When Italians crave a midnight snack or other impromptu meal, it is time for a spaghettata, meaning a “spaghetti party.” A spaghettata calls for something very fast and uncomplicated, with lively flavors that jump off the plate and into your mouth. It has to be made with ingredients on hand: There is no time to shop.

For a spaghettata perfetta, this recipe can’t be beat. It’s a variation on the theme of aglio e olio, garlic and oil sauce. In this version, red wine stains the pasta a rosy color, while the garlic, olives, and hot pepper give it a punch. Like most aglio e olio pastas, it does not call for cheese.

Serves 2 to 4

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic, parsley, and red pepper in the oil over medium heat until the garlic is lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in the olives and cook for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir, and cook, stirring often, until almost, but not quite al dente. Drain.

While the pasta is cooking, turn the heat under the skillet to high, add the wine, and bring to a boil.

Add the spaghetti to the skillet and cook, stirring, until al dente, about 2 minutes more. Serve immediately.

VARIATION

Add some chopped anchovies, canned tuna, or capers with the olives.

Whole Wheat Linguine with Kale and Chickpeas

This dish was inspired by one I enjoyed in Puglia. Cicerchia (chee-cher-kee-ah), an unusual legume that resembles a flat chickpea, had been simmered with wild chicory and tossed with whole wheat linguine. My version includes meaty kale and easily available chickpeas, which I cook with garlic and hot pepper. The nutty flavor and chewy, somewhat coarse texture of whole wheat or farro linguine complement the chickpeas and vegetables perfectly.

Serves 6 to 8

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the kale and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the kale with a slotted spoon, or tongs; reserve the cooking water to cook the pasta. Let the kale cool, then chop it into small pieces.

In a deep skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic and red pepper in the oil over medium heat for 1 minute, or until the garlic is golden. Add the chickpeas and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Stir in the kale and a pinch of salt, lower the heat, and cover the pan. Cook for 10 minutes more, or until the kale is tender. Add a little of the cooking water if the sauce seems dry.

Meanwhile, return the vegetable cooking water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain.

Add the pasta to the chickpeas and the kale, turn the heat up to high, and toss well. Add the cheese and toss again.

Serve immediately, drizzled with a little extra-virgin olive oil.

“Angry” Sicilian Pasta

“Angry” Sicilian Pasta

“Angry” Sicilian Pasta

What’s so angry about this summery pasta? A touch of crushed red pepper fires it up, “enraging” the combination of herbs, tomatoes, and cheese tossed with bow tie pasta. I can’t imagine a more appealing dish for a warm summer night.

Grating garlic on a Microplane is easier and faster than chopping it, and the even texture that results allows it to blend in better with the other ingredients. And a Microplane is a lot easier to clean than a garlic press.

Serves 6

In a large serving bowl, toss together the tomatoes, basil, capers, mint, oregano, garlic, red pepper, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt. (The sauce can be made up to 1 hour ahead of time. Cover and let stand at room temperature.)

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and reserve. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the bowl, with a little of the reserved cooking water if needed, and toss well. Add the cheese and toss again. Serve hot or warm.

Bow Ties with Mushrooms and Tomatoes

My father had an old friend who came from Abruzzo, in central Italy, and loved to go foraging for wild mushrooms. He had been trained in mycology, the study of mushrooms, and every spring and fall, when the weather was just right, he would go out to the woods near his home in New Jersey and look for different varieties that were in season. From time to time, he would bring us a big bagful, every one carefully inspected to be sure that it was safe to eat.

My mother often used them in soups and sautés, but one of my favorite ways to have them was in a sauce for pasta. This is my version of a mushroom sauce I had at the home of winemaker friends in Tuscany. I like it with a chunky pasta shape, such as bow ties, that complements the appearance and texture of the mushroom slices and bits of tomato.

A mix of mushrooms, such as cremini, shiitake, oyster, and button, creates the best flavor for this sauce.

Serves 6 to 8

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the onion in the olive oil over medium heat, stirring often, until tender and golden, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are tender and the juices they release evaporate, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, parsley, and more salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the sauce, with the butter and a little of the cooking water, and toss well. Stir in the cheese and serve immediately.

One-Pot “Dragged” Penne

The first time I saw the name of this dish, strascicata, on a restaurant menu, I was sure that my less-than-perfect knowledge of Italian had failed me. Strascinare means “to drag,” an odd thing to do to pasta. But the waiter explained that the chef had cooked the pasta in the sauce, stirring, or “dragging,” it and adding more liquid as it cooked. The technique is similar to making risotto. The pasta becomes infused with the sauce and develops a creamy texture from the starch it releases as it is stirred.

Like risotto, this method does require a fair amount of stirring, so plan to stay close to the stove. On the up side, you will need to wash only one pot.

Serves 4

Heat the sauce in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the penne and stir to coat with the sauce. Stir in 2 cups water and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is reduced and thickened and the pasta is al dente; if necessary, add more water to prevent the pasta from sticking. Add salt to taste.

Stir in the cheese and serve immediately.

Penne with Zucchini and Herbs

An agriturismo is a working farm that welcomes guests for get-away-from-it-all vacations. When I stayed at San Felice in Tuscany, we spent our days walking in the fields, watching the workers make cheese from their sheep’s milk, and enjoying the experience of life on a farm. Every evening, Anna, the cook, would prepare simple meals featuring olive oil from their own trees and produce from the organic garden. One night she served us bowls of pasta and zucchini coated with an aromatic green sauce. When I asked her about it, she just shrugged and said that she makes it from whatever looks good in the garden.

Though my terrace will never yield the variety of produce that Anna’s kitchen garden did, I can make my own version of her pasta with the dill and basil that I grow and fresh zucchini from the nearby farmers’ market.

If you have a mortar and pestle, you can pound the herbs, garlic, and olive oil together the traditional way, but a food processor does an excellent job too.

Serves 6 to 8

Place the dill, basil, and garlic in a food processor and chop them fine. Add ¼ cup of the oil and process until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the scallions in the remaining ¼ cup oil over medium heat until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the zucchini and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 10 minutes more, or until tender.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the skillet and toss well. Add the herb mixture and cheese and toss until blended. Add a little of the cooking water if the pasta seems dry. Serve immediately.

Seven-P Pasta

When I visited the Selvapiana winery in the Chianti region of Tuscany, I asked the cook about some of her favorite local dishes, and she was kind enough to share this one. She called it pasta con sette P—“seven-P pasta.” The Ps stand for the ingredients: porro (leek), pancetta (unsmoked bacon), peperoncino (hot pepper), pomodori (tomatoes), panna (cream), penne, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Now I make it often, though sometimes I leave out the pancetta.

Serves 6

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the pancetta (if using), leek, and red pepper in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the leek is tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and a pinch of salt, bring to a simmer, and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened. Stir in the cream and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta and cheese to the sauce and toss well. Add a little of the cooking water if needed to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately.

Penne with Butternut Squash and Bacon

When I visited the Barilla Culinary Center in Parma, the chef showed me how he makes this pasta dish from the region. I was surprised to see that he used smoked bacon, which isn’t common in Italy, but the salty touch was just right with the sweet squash.

Serves 4

In a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients, cook the bacon in the olive oil over medium heat until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and rosemary and cook for 8 minutes, or until the onion is tender.

Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the squash, water, and salt and pepper to taste, stir well, cover the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the squash is tender and starting to brown. If it begins to stick, add another tablespoon or two of water. With the back of a spoon, mash some of the squash until creamy.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the pasta cooking water and set it aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the squash mixture, with a little of the cooking water, and stir well. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute to coat the pasta.

Stir in the cheese and serve immediately.

Penne with Butternut Squash and Bacon

Penne with Butternut Squash and Bacon

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Spicy Escarole, Tomatoes, and Olives

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Spicy Escarole, Tomatoes, and Olives

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Spicy Escarole, Tomatoes, and Olives

Whole wheat pasta isn’t meant for delicate sauces, but I love its nutty flavor and slightly coarse texture with a chunky, garlicky sauce like this one.

Escarole is a versatile green of which Southern Italians are especially fond. Uncooked, it makes a fine salad green. Cooking it brings out its slight sweetness. It can be stir-fried, added to soup, or tossed with pasta, as here.

Serves 6 to 8

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the escarole and cook for 7 to 9 minutes, until the thick stems are tender. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain well. Reserve the cooking water for the pasta.

In a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic and red pepper in the oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and olives and cook for 10 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft. Stir in the escarole and cook for 5 minutes; add a little warm water if the sauce seems dry.

Meanwhile, return the escarole cooking water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain.

Add the pasta to the sauce, turn the heat to high, and toss the pasta well. Add the cheese and toss again. Drizzle with a little olive oil and serve immediately.

Whole Wheat Fusilli with Broccoli and Olive Paste

Jarred olive paste is handy to have in the pantry. (You can find it with the olives in most supermarkets, or see Sources.) Spread it on crostini or add it to salad dressing and sauces. One day, I stirred some into a garlicky broccoli sauce for whole wheat pasta. It added a twist to one of my favorite pastas.

Serves 6 to 8

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the broccoli and cook for 5 minutes, or until barely tender. Remove the broccoli with a slotted spoon and drain well. Leave the water at a boil for the pasta.

In a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients, cook the garlic and red pepper in the olive oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in the olive paste and broccoli, cover, and cook until the broccoli is tender, about 8 minutes. Taste for seasoning.

Meanwhile, add the pasta to the broccoli cooking water, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the skillet, with a little of the cooking water, and toss with the broccoli. Add the cheese, toss again, and serve immediately.

Rotelle with Spicy Cauliflower Ragu

Home Food is an organization of Italians who enjoy cooking. Known as Cesarine, they are passionate about their local food and welcome guests into their homes for a meal of traditional foods. This is an exceptional opportunity to meet people, learn about Italian culture, and enjoy a home-cooked meal at a moderate price, especially if you are in an unfamiliar city.

We enjoyed a Home Food dinner in the home of a Cesarina in Catania. She received us like old friends, shared information about the city that only a native would know, told us a little about her family and her interesting life, and demonstrated a few of her recipes, including this one, in her warm and cozy kitchen. For more information about Home Food, go to www.homefood.it.

Rotelle or fusilli is the perfect pasta for this sauce. The crumbles of cauliflower simmered with garlic and tomatoes get caught in the ridges and loops, so every bite delivers their flavor. Sicilians like to add anchovies to the sauce, but if you prefer to leave them out, it will still be delicious.

Serves 4

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook for 15 minutes, or until very tender when pierced with a knife.

Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic in the oil over medium heat for 1 minute. Stir in the anchovies (if using) and red pepper and cook, stirring, until the anchovies are dissolved. Stir in the tomatoes, with their juice, oregano, and salt to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.

When the cauliflower is very tender, scoop out the pieces with a slotted spoon and drain them well in a colander. Reserve the boiling water for the pasta. Add the cauliflower to the tomato sauce. With a large spoon, crush the cauliflower into the simmering sauce and cook for 10 minutes more.

Meanwhile, bring the cauliflower water back to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain.

Add the pasta to the sauce, tossing well to coat, drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, and serve immediately.

Orecchiette with Potatoes and Arugula

Orecchiette with Potatoes and Arugula

Orecchiette with Potatoes and Arugula

Arugula is ideal as a salad green, but that doesn’t mean it’s not good cooked. In Puglia, it is used in soups and pasta sauces and sautéed as a side dish.

This recipe pairs orecchiette, little ear-shaped pasta, with arugula and potatoes. For the sauce, the potatoes turn creamy as they cook in the same pot with the pasta, and the pasta and vegetables get an added lift from sautéed garlic and a hint of hot pepper.

Serves 6

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to hold all of the ingredients, cook the garlic and red pepper in the oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Add the potatoes to the boiling water. When the water is boiling again, stir in the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and the pasta is al dente. Stir in the arugula. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Place the skillet over medium heat, add the pasta and vegetables, and toss well. Add a little of the cooking water if the pasta seems dry. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

Eggplant Lasagna

Think of this recipe as the offspring from the marriage of eggplant Parmesan and lasagna: They are made for each other. It’s a traditional recipe from Naples and one that deserves to be better known. It serves a crowd, so it is perfect as a main dish for a big holiday meal.

Serves 8

Place racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.

Generously brush the eggplant slices on both sides with oil. Arrange the slices in a single layer on two large baking sheets. Bake the eggplant for 30 minutes, or until tender and lightly browned. Remove from the oven; reduce the heat to 375°F.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, cook the onion in the ⅓ cup olive oil over medium heat, stirring, until tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and salt and pepper to taste, bring to a simmer, and cook until the sauce is slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the basil.

Lay out some kitchen towels on a work surface. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Add a couple of pasta sheets to the boiling water. Remove them after 1 minute, or when they are still firm, and place in the bowl of water to cool, then lay them out flat on the towels. Repeat, cooking and cooling the remaining pasta in the same way; the towels can be stacked one on top of the other.

Lightly oil a 13-×-9-×-2-inch baking pan. Spread a thin layer of sauce in the pan. Top with a layer of pasta, slightly overlapping the sheets. Spread with a thin layer of sauce, then top with half of the eggplant slices, half of the mozzarella slices, and ⅓ cup of the grated cheese. Add another layer of pasta and spread with a thin layer of sauce. Top with the remaining eggplant slices, the remaining mozzarella slices, and ⅓ cup of the grated cheese. Top with a final layer of pasta, tomato sauce, and the remaining ⅓ cup grated cheese. (The lasagna can be assembled up to 24 hours in advance, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated; remove from the refrigerator about 1 hour before baking.)

Bake the lasagna for 45 minutes, or until the top is browned and the sauce is bubbling around the edges. If the lasagna is browning too much, cover it loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes.

Cut the lasagna into squares and serve.

Mushroom Ravioli with Pine Nut, Butter, and Sage Sauce

Woodsy mushrooms and creamy ricotta fill these little pasta pillows from Liguria, in northwestern Italy. I serve them with a butter sauce flavored with pine nuts and fresh sage.

When cooking ravioli, be sure to regulate the water so that it boils gently and does not cause the pasta to burst.

Serves 8

To make the ravioli

In a large skillet, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, marjoram, and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and the juices they release have evaporated. Let cool.

Scrape the mushrooms into a food processor and finely chop. Scrape them into a large bowl. Stir in the ricotta and ½ cup of the grated cheese and taste for seasoning. Stir in the egg yolk. Cover and refrigerate while you make the ravioli.

Sprinkle a couple of baking sheets lightly with flour and set aside.

Lay one strip of the dough on a lightly floured surface. (Keep the others covered with plastic wrap.) Fold it lengthwise in half to mark the center, then unfold it. Beginning about 1 inch from one end, place a teaspoonful of the filling on the dough. Continue to place teaspoonfuls of the filling about 1 inch apart in a straight row down one side of the fold. Dip your finger lightly in cool water and run it around the filling to moisten the dough slightly, then fold the dough over the side with filling. Press out any air bubbles and seal the edges. Use a fluted pastry wheel or a sharp knife to cut between the dough-covered mounds of filling. Separate the ravioli and press the edges firmly with the back of a fork to seal. Place the ravioli in a single layer on one of the floured baking sheets.

Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Cover with a towel and refrigerate until ready to cook, or up to 3 hours, turning the pieces several times so that they do not stick to the pans. (The ravioli can be frozen on the baking sheets until firm, then placed in a heavy-duty plastic bag, sealed tightly, and frozen for up to 1 month; do not thaw before cooking.)

Just before serving, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, make the sauce

In a saucepan, melt the butter with the pine nuts, sage, and a pinch of salt.

Lower the heat under the pot of boiling water so that the water boils gently. Add the ravioli and cook until tender, 2 to 5 minutes, depending on whether or not they were frozen. Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and drain well in a colander.

Pour half of the sauce into a warm serving bowl. Add the ravioli. Spoon on the remaining sauce, sprinkle with the remaining ½ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, and serve immediately.

Mushroom Ravioli with Pine Nut, Butter, and Sage Sauce

Mushroom Ravioli with Pine Nut, Butter, and Sage Sauce

Fresh Egg Pasta

There is nothing like homemade pasta. Flour and eggs come together to form tender, rich, and silky dough that you can roll out into sheets for lasagna, cut into fettuccine, or stuff and fold into ravioli. Once you get the knack of it, making pasta is a very satisfying skill. Plus, it costs a fraction of store-bought “fresh” pasta (which can be months old), and it has no additives or preservatives.

I like to make pasta dough by hand or in a heavy-duty mixer. Each method has its merits. Feeling and touching the dough enables you to judge when the balance of flour and eggs is just right, but using a mixer is a lot neater and makes short work of kneading the heavy dough. I don’t recommend using a food processor, since it tends to heat up the dough and toughen it.

Once the dough is ready, you can roll it out with a hand-cranked pasta machine or an electric-powered roller (I have one that attaches to my heavy-duty mixer) or by hand with a rolling pin. The rolling pin does a great job, but it takes patience to get the pasta thin and even. I don’t like the texture of the pasta that results from the extruding machines I’ve tried.

Makes about 1 pound

To make the dough in a heavy-duty mixer

Put the eggs and olive oil into the bowl of the mixer fitted with the flat beater. With the mixer on low, add the flour a little at a time, stopping when the dough forms a ball around the beater and cleans the sides of the bowl. Pinch the dough: It should feel moist but not sticky. If it is sticky, add a little bit more flour as needed.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 1 minute, or until the dough forms a neat ball with no streaks of flour.

To make the dough by hand

Mound the flour on a work surface. With your fingertips, make a wide crater in the center of the mound of flour. Pour in the eggs and oil and begin stirring with a fork, gradually incorporating the flour from the inside of the crater. Use your other hand to stabilize the wall of flour and prevent it from collapsing as you stir. When most of the flour has been incorporated and the dough forms a ball and becomes too firm to stir, push the remaining flour to one side. Lightly flour your hands and begin kneading, pushing the dough away from you with the heels of your hands and pulling it back toward you with your fingertips. Continue kneading, gradually incorporating some of the remaining flour, until the ball becomes somewhat smooth and feels moist but only slightly sticky. Do not add more flour than necessary, or the dough will become too dry. Continue kneading for 8 to 10 minutes, or until there are no streaks of flour in the dough and the color is evenly yellow.

With either method, set the dough aside and cover it with an overturned bowl to prevent it from drying out. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, scrape the work surface to remove any scraps of dough.

To roll out the dough with a pasta machine

Set up the pasta machine, set the rollers at the widest opening, and dust them lightly with flour.

Cut the dough into 4 to 6 pieces. Work with 1 piece at a time, keeping the remainder covered.

Flatten a piece of dough into an oval disk. Turn the handle of the pasta machine with one hand and guide the piece of dough through the rollers with the other. If the dough sticks, ripples, or tears, dust it lightly with flour. Fold the dough crosswise into thirds. Pass it through the machine again, flouring it if necessary. Make a third pass in the same way.

Move the dial to the next notch and pass the dough through the rollers. As the dough emerges, lift it straight out so that it stays flat, without wrinkling (do not fold it this time). Continue to pass the dough through the machine, moving the dial one notch each time, until the desired thinness is reached. This will vary according to the machine, but I usually stop at the second-to-the-last setting for fettuccine, lasagna, and other flat pastas and the last notch for stuffed pasta. The pasta should be thin enough that you can see your hand through it without tearing. (Don’t be tempted to reroll scraps of dough. Hardened edges can stick in the machine and tear the pasta.)

Lay the strip of dough on a lightly floured kitchen towel. Roll out the remaining dough in the same way, making all of the strips of equal thickness.

Turn the finished strips often so that they do not stick. If the dough will be used to make stuffed pasta, such as ravioli, keep it covered so that it remains pliable and use as soon as possible.

To roll out the dough by hand

Cut the dough into 4 to 6 pieces. Work with 1 piece at a time, keeping the remainder covered.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Shape a piece of dough into a disk. Dust a long wooden rolling pin with flour. Place the pin on the dough and roll it away from you toward the edge. Rotate the dough a quarter turn, center the pin on it, and push toward the edge once more. Repeat rotating and rolling the dough out from the center, keeping the shape round and the thickness even. Flip the dough over from time to time to be sure it is not sticking. Dust it lightly with flour if needed, but don’t use so much flour that the dough dries out. The dough is thin enough when you can easily see your hand through it when it is held up to the light. Lay the dough on a lightly floured kitchen towel. Roll out the remaining dough in the same way.

If the dough will be used to make stuffed pasta, such as ravioli, keep it covered so that it remains pliable and use as soon as possible.

To cut the dough with a pasta machine

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, pass each sheet of dough through the cutters. As the dough emerges, lift it straight out with your other hand so that the strands do not collect on the countertop and become wrinkled. (For a manual machine, it helps to have an assistant—that way, one can pass the dough through the cutters and lift it out while the other turns the crank.) Place the strands on a floured surface.

To cut the dough by hand

Let the dough dry until it is slightly leathery but still pliable, about 20 minutes.

Cut the dough into 10-inch lengths with a large heavy chef’s knife. Loosely roll up a strip of dough and cut it crosswise into strips 4 inches wide for lasagna or ¼ inch wide for fettuccine. Separate the strips and place them flat on a floured surface to dry for about 1 hour at room temperature.

To store fresh egg pasta

The pasta can be used immediately, frozen, or allowed to dry completely before storing. To freeze the pasta, place the strips on baking sheets lightly dusted with flour so that they do not touch and place the baking sheets in the freezer. When the pasta is firm, gently gather fettuccine into a bundle or stack lasagna sheets. Wrap the pasta well in layers of plastic wrap or foil. Freeze for up to 1 month.

To dry the pasta, place the strips, not touching, on lightly floured baking sheets and cover with lightweight kitchen towels. (Do not cover them with plastic or foil, or they will turn moldy.) Leave the strips at room temperature for up to several days, until the pieces are completely dry and snap when broken. Store in plastic bags in the pantry until ready to use.

Fresh Spinach Pasta

Pasta made with fresh spinach has a bright green color and a verdant flavor.

Makes about 1¼ pounds

Place the spinach in a large pot with the water. Cover and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, or until the spinach is wilted and tender.

Drain the spinach and let cool. Place the spinach in a towel and squeeze out the liquid. Chop the spinach fine (you should have about ¾ cup).

Combine the spinach and eggs in a medium bowl, mixing well.

Mound the flour on a work surface. With your fingertips, make a wide crater in the center of the flour and pour in the spinach mixture. Begin stirring with a fork, gradually incorporating the flour from the inside of the crater. Use your other hand to stabilize the wall of flour and prevent it from collapsing. Continue as directed in Fresh Egg Pasta.

Baked Spaghetti Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Smoked Mozzarella

In Naples, spaghetti and beaten eggs are mixed with broccoli rabe and smoked mozzarella, poured into a pan, and baked into a golden pasta frittata. Served hot or at room temperature, this is a great dish for a party or picnic.

Smoked scamorza, a cow’s-milk cheese, is similar to mozzarella but firmer and drier.

Serves 6 to 8

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Oil a shallow 2-quart baking dish.

Add the broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until almost tender. Remove with a strainer; leave the water boiling. Let the broccoli rabe cool slightly, then chop it into bite-size pieces.

Add the pasta to the boiling water, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until almost but not quite al dente. Drain.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat the eggs with ½ cup of the grated cheese, a pinch of salt, and pepper to taste. Add the pasta and toss well. Add the broccoli rabe and toss again.

Pour half of the mixture into the baking dish. Place the mozzarella on top. Add the remaining pasta. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup grated cheese.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the eggs are just set and the top is lightly browned. Serve hot or at room temperature, cut into wedges or squares.

Baked Spaghetti Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Smoked Mozzarella

Baked Spaghetti Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Smoked Mozzarella

Bow Ties Baked with Cauliflower and Cheese

Bow Ties Baked with Cauliflower and Cheese

Bow Ties Baked with Cauliflower and Cheese

Big baroque-looking heads of cauliflower, some creamy white and others tinged with pink, were piled high in the markets in Sicily one fall, so I wasn’t at all surprised to find them included in our lunch when I visited the home of a family of cheese makers near Ragusa. After touring their immaculate small dairy and tasting their creamy ricotta, we sat down to steaming bowls of pasta baked with fresh cauliflower just harvested from a neighbor’s garden. The mild cauliflower is the perfect foil for the sharpness of Pecorino and the creaminess of ricotta.

Serves 6 to 8

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a 13-×-9-×-2-inch baking dish.

In a large skillet, cook the onion in ¼ cup of the oil over medium heat, stirring often, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower and salt and pepper to taste, stir well, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is tender and just beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until almost but not quite al dente. Scoop out ½ cup of the cooking water and pour it into a large bowl. Drain the pasta.

Whisk the ricotta into the hot pasta water. Stir in the pasta. Spread half of the pasta in the baking dish. Spoon the cauliflower mixture over the pasta. Sprinkle with ½ cup of the grated cheese. Spread the remaining pasta on top.

Toss the bread crumbs with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add the remaining ½ cup grated cheese and salt to taste and sprinkle the mixture over the pasta.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until the crumbs are golden and the pasta is heated through. Serve hot.

Baked Pasta Fagioli

Vicolo della Neve (“Little Street of the Snow”) is a restaurant and pizzeria in Salerno that is said to be two hundred years old. It got its name from the ice sellers who once populated the neighborhood in the days before refrigeration. My husband and I loved everything we ate there, from the sweet bell peppers stuffed with eggplant to the perfect Neapolitan-style pizzas. But the dish that made us swoon was the pasta fagioli baked in the blazing-hot pizza ovens. It tasted a lot like the traditional version that my mother used to make, but with a crunchy topping and crispy edges.

You can substitute cannellini or white kidney beans if borlotti are not available.

Serves 8

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a large saucepan, cook the celery and garlic in ¼ cup of the oil over medium heat until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree, 1 teaspoon salt, and the red pepper, bring to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes, or until slightly thickened.

Add the beans and their liquid, bring to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Mash some of the beans with the back of a large cooking spoon or with a potato masher.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring often, until almost but not quite al dente. Scoop out 2 cups of the cooking water. Drain the pasta.

Toss the pasta with the bean sauce and the reserved cooking water. It will look soupy. Spoon into a shallow 2½-quart baking dish. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the pasta is lightly browned on top. Serve hot.

Two-in-One Penne with Mushrooms and Cream

This recipe is a two-in-one because you can serve the pasta simply with the mushroom and cream sauce or take it a step further and bake it into a luscious casserole. In Piedmont, in northwestern Italy, porcini, or cèpe, mushrooms are used, but they are quite expensive here, so I choose a mix of flavorful cultivated varieties. The one thing I don’t compromise on is the Fontina Valle d’Aosta, a semi-soft cow’s-milk cheese from Northern Italy that has a mushroomy flavor and a smooth, creamy texture.

Serves 8

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms begin to release their liquid. Turn the heat down slightly and cook until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the 1 cup cream and turn off the heat.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente. Drain.

Add the pasta to the mushrooms and toss well.

To serve the pasta immediately, add the Fontina and toss well. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and serve.

Alternatively, preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 13-×-9-×-2-inch baking dish.

Spoon about one third of the pasta into the baking dish. Arrange half of the Fontina slices over the pasta. Make a second layer of pasta and top with the remaining sliced cheese. Spread the remaining pasta over the top and drizzle with the remaining ¼ cup cream. Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan.

Cover the baking dish with foil. Bake for 20 minutes. Uncover and bake for 10 minutes more, or until the sauce is bubbly and the top is golden. Serve hot.

Pasta Torta

Pasta Torta

Pasta Torta

For this savory torta, leftover pasta and sauce and a layer of mozzarella—either smoked or plain—or provolone or other meltable cheese are packed into a baking pan liberally coated with butter and bread crumbs and baked. After a brief rest, the beautiful golden torta is slipped out of the pan and served. With its brown crunchy edges and the designs formed by the pasta shapes, this looks and tastes so good, nobody will guess that you created it from leftovers.

Practically any pasta shape and sauce will do, though I like pasta with tomato sauce best, since the sauce keeps the pasta moist. This is a recipe that doesn’t need exact measurements. If you like, add a little chopped ham or salami. Just don’t let the cheese touch the sides of the pan, or it will prevent the torta from unmolding neatly.

Since I don’t usually have leftover pasta, I sometimes double a recipe I’m making and refrigerate half to use for the torta later in the week.

Serves 6

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Generously butter a 9-×-9-×-2-inch baking pan. Sprinkle the sides of the pan with 2 tablespoons of the bread crumbs, turning the pan to coat it evenly. Tap out the excess.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Beat in the Parmesan. Add the pasta and sauce and the vegetables, if using, and stir well.

Spoon half of the pasta into the pan, being careful not to disturb the crumbs. Sprinkle with the shredded cheese, avoiding the sides of the pan. Spoon on the remaining pasta and smooth the surface. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon bread crumbs.

Bake the pasta for 50 minutes, or until golden brown on top and hot in the center. Remove from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes to allow the pasta to set.

Run a small knife around the edges of the pan. Invert the torta onto a serving plate. (If the pasta does not slip out of the pan, spoon it out—and butter the pan more generously next time.) Cut into squares and serve.

Cavatelli with Erice Pesto and Eggplant

When I stayed in Erice, a medieval town perched on a hilltop in western Sicily, a thick fog swirled through the streets one night as six of us made our way to a tiny trattoria. The menu was limited, so we all ordered the same pasta. Soon the waiter stepped out of the tiny kitchen carrying a huge bowl of busiati, a homemade fresh pasta similar to cavatelli, with a sauce prepared from uncooked tomatoes pounded with almonds, cheese, garlic, and basil, all topped with fried cubes of eggplant and rounds of potatoes. We dug in with enthusiasm. You can serve the pasta with just the pesto, but I love it with the eggplant. Back home I came up with this version.

Serves 6 to 8

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

Pour about 1 inch of vegetable oil into a deep skillet and heat over medium-high heat until very hot. Pat the potato slices dry with paper towels and slip some of them into the hot oil in a single layer. Fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides and tender when pierced, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the remaining potato slices. Keep warm in the oven.

Add only enough of the eggplant pieces to the hot oil to fit without crowding and cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned on all sides, about 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Cook the remaining eggplant in the same way. Keep warm in the oven.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, finely chop the garlic in a food processor. Add the almonds and basil and chop fine. Add the tomatoes, cheese, and olive oil and process to a coarse puree. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the pasta to the boiling water, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until it is al dente. Scoop out some of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.

Pour the pasta into a large serving bowl. Add the pesto and toss well. Add a little of the cooking water if needed to loosen the sauce. Add the eggplant and toss again. Scatter the potatoes on top and serve immediately.

Pumpkin Gnocchi alla Romana

Roman-style gnocchi are made with semolina flour and baked with butter and cheese. Here is a variation on that theme, with pureed pumpkin or another winter squash. The vegetable gives a warm color and mild sweetness to the gnocchi. Canned pumpkin or frozen squash puree makes a good shortcut, or you can use your own homemade puree.

I can’t think of a better dish for an autumn dinner party. Make these a day or two ahead of time, then bake them just before you are ready to serve.

Serves 6

Oil a large baking sheet.

In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and 2 teaspoons salt to a simmer.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the water and semolina. Pour the mixture into the hot milk and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is very thick, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, add 4 tablespoons of the butter, and stir until melted.

In a small bowl, beat together the egg yolks, pumpkin, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture into the semolina. Stir in 1 cup of the cheese.

Pour the mixture onto the baking sheet. With a spatula, spread it out evenly to ½ inch thick and smooth the top. Refrigerate for 3 hours, or until the semolina is firm to the touch. (The dough can be covered and refrigerated overnight.)

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 13-×-9-×-2-inch baking dish.

With a small knife, cut the dough into 2-inch squares. Slide a spatula under the squares and transfer them to the baking dish, overlapping them slightly.

Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan, add the sage leaves and a pinch of salt, and cook for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Drizzle the butter over the gnocchi and sprinkle with pepper. Top with the remaining ½ cup cheese.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until the gnocchi are golden on top. Serve hot.

Basil-Ricotta Gnocchi with Tomato-Butter Sauce

Light and delicate gnocchi made with ricotta and flecked with fresh basil are a far cry from the more familiar, heavier potato gnocchi. Their flavor reminds me of the filling for good cheese ravioli. Paired with a buttery fresh tomato sauce, they are heavenly.

To make gnocchi that are light, not dense, drain the ricotta to eliminate excess liquid so that you won’t have to add too much flour to compensate.

Serves 6

Place the ricotta in a strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl. Drain for at least several hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator.

In a large bowl, beat the egg and yolk until blended. Add the ricotta, basil, Parmesan, salt, and pepper to taste and stir well. Add 1 cup of the flour and stir just until combined. Sprinkle some of the remaining flour on a work surface. Turn the dough out and very gently turn it in the flour. Handle it lightly, adding only as much flour as needed to make a soft dough. Cut the dough into quarters. Set aside, covered with an overturned bowl.

Rinse and dry your hands and scrape the work surface clean. Line a large baking sheet with foil and dust it with flour. Dust the work surface with flour.

Roll one quarter of the dough into a 1-inch-thick log. Cut it into ½-inch slices. Arrange the slices on the baking sheet so that they do not touch. Repeat with the remaining dough. Place the baking sheet in the refrigerator until ready to use. (The gnocchi can be refrigerated overnight or frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze, place the baking sheet in the freezer and freeze until firm, then transfer the gnocchi to a freezer bag, seal tightly, and freeze.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large heated bowl ready.

Drop half of the gnocchi a few pieces at a time into the boiling water so that they do not stick together and stir gently. Lower the heat so that the water is just simmering. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, cook for 30 seconds more.

Pour half of the sauce into the heated bowl. Remove the gnocchi from the boiling water with a slotted spoon and place them in the sauce. Spoon on half of the remaining sauce. Cover and keep warm. Cook and drain the remaining gnocchi, add to the bowl, and top with the rest of the sauce.

Sprinkle with cheese and serve immediately.

Basil-Ricotta Gnocchi with Tomato-Butter Sauce

Basil-Ricotta Gnocchi with Tomato-Butter Sauce

Beet and Ricotta Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Cream Sauce

Gnocchi made from potatoes or ricotta may be the most familiar, but there are many other kinds found throughout Italy. Spinach gnocchi in Rome, mushroom gnocchi in the Alto Adige, and bread gnocchi in the Tyrol are just a few of the kinds I have enjoyed.

Made by kneading together a bit of flour and whatever else was on hand, gnocchi were probably created as a sort of desperation dinner, when times were hard and people were hungry. The name alone, which means “lumps” in Italian, seems to indicate that they were not very special. Now, enriched with cheese or coated with sauce, they make a luxurious addition to any meal.

The prizewinner for the prettiest gnocchi I have ever eaten were the brilliant pink gnocchi made with beets and ricotta I had in the town of Ravenna, in the Emilia-Romagna region. I serve them on top of a creamy Gorgonzola sauce so that their gorgeous color shines.

Serves 6 to 8

Place the ricotta in a strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl. Drain for at least several hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator.

Cut the beets into chunks. Place them in a food processor and puree. Add the ricotta, egg, Parmesan, and salt and pepper to taste. Pulse until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Add ⅔ cup flour and stir to blend, adding more only if needed. Don’t handle the dough any more than necessary, or it will become tough.

Line a large baking sheet with foil and dust it with flour. Lightly dust a dish with flour. Scoop up a tablespoonful of the dough and, with a second spoon, push it off into the dish. Roll the dough lightly in the flour and place it on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, leaving space between the gnocchi on the sheet. (The gnocchi can be refrigerated overnight or frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze, place the baking sheet in the freezer and freeze until firm, then transfer to a freezer bag, seal tightly, and freeze.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large heated bowl ready. Place the butter in the bowl and let it melt, swirling it to coat the bowl. Keep warm.

Drop half of the gnocchi a few at a time into the boiling water so that they don’t stick together and stir gently. Lower the heat so the water is just simmering. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, cook for 30 seconds more. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and transfer them to the bowl. Cover and keep warm. Cook and drain the remaining gnocchi and add to the bowl.

Spoon a little of the hot sauce onto each plate. Top with the gnocchi. Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve immediately.

Gorgonzola Cream Sauce

This lusciously rich sauce is my first choice for Beet and Ricotta Gnocchi, but it is also good on just about any type of fresh pasta.

Makes about 2 cups

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and milk to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, or until slightly reduced. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the Gorgonzola until melted. Season with the nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste and serve.