Silky Braised Leeks

Pırasa Kavurması

On the Black Sea, yard-long leeks are coaxed to sweetness by long, slow cooking in a light tomato-flavored sauce.

Be sure to wash the leeks thoroughly to remove the grit hidden between their layers. And give this dish the time that it requires; raising the heat to rush cooking will make for unappetizingly tough and oniony leeks.

This dish works well alongside roast chicken or lamb; it makes a vegetarian main when served with Garlicky Yogurt. Black Sea cooks often spoon it over soft polenta.

Preparation time: 1 hour

Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as a main course

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into ½-inch-thick slices
• 1 medium tomato, cut into small dice
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon Turkish or other crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• 1¼ cups water
• 4 large leeks (1 pound), tough green leaves removed, washed well, and sliced lengthwise into quarters and then crosswise into 2½- to 3-inch-long pieces

1. Melt the butter with the oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the tomato, tomato paste, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

2. Sprinkle over the salt and sugar, add the water, and stir to mix. Add the leeks and carrot and carefully turn them in the liquid. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a gentle simmer, and cover the pan. Cook the leeks, stirring them occasionally and checking to make sure that sufficient liquid remains in the pan (add water ¼ cup at a time if necessary), until they have collapsed to limpness in the sauce, 45 to 50 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.