The Big Book of Sides: More than 450 Recipes for the Best Vegetables, Grains, Salads, Breads, Sauces, and More

Serve with Mexican-style main courses, especially tortilla-based dishes.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Make Ahead: The beans can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

Once I learned how easy it was to make first-class refried beans at home, I stopped buying the canned version. The flavor is pumped up with a couple of strips of bacon, but if you don’t have bacon, use 2 tablespoons olive oil to cook the onions and garlic. Top each serving with crumbled cotija cheese and chopped fresh cilantro, if you wish.

Two 15-ounce cans pinto beans

2 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

½ cup finely chopped white or yellow onion

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1. Drain the beans in a colander, reserving ½ cup of the liquid. Rinse the beans under cold running water, and drain them again. Purée the beans and reserved liquid in a food processor (or in batches in a blender).

2. Cook the bacon in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the skillet.

3. Add the onion to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the chili powder and cumin, followed by the bean purée. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often with a heatproof spatula to scrape up any purée clinging to the skillet, until the beans have reduced into a thick mass, 12 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The beans can be made up to 1 day ahead. Reheat in a nonstick skillet, adding water as needed to thin to the desired consistency.) Transfer the refried beans to a bowl.

4. Coarsely chop the bacon. Sprinkle the bacon over the beans and serve.

Refried Black Beans: Substitute black beans and ½ cup of their liquid for the pinto beans.

SPANISH GARBANZOS WITH HAM

Serve with pork roast, pork chops, sausages, roast chicken, fish fillets, or sautéed shrimp.

Make Ahead: The beans can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Buffet Dish

While a Spanish cook would make this with diced Serrano ham, it is usually sold in this country packaged in very thin slices that are too delicate to slice. Prosciutto is a highly acceptable substitute that can be used for this recipe. The air-cured ham will infuse the beans with its distinctive taste, along with the Spanish flavors of red pepper, sherry, and smoked paprika.

⅓ cup (¼-inch) diced Serrano ham or prosciutto

1 small red onion, chopped

½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika (Pimentón de la Vera)

⅛ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

¼ cup dry sherry

Two 15-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained and rinsed

½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

1. Cook the Serrano ham and oil together in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the Serrano ham begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the red onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the paprika and red pepper flakes.

2. Add the sherry and cook until it has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Stir in the beans and broth and bring them to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the broth has reduced by about half, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt. (The beans can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat in a skillet over medium-low heat, adding more broth or water, if needed.)

3. Transfer the beans to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the parsley, if using, and serve.

PROSCIUTTO, SERRANO HAM, AND PANCETTA

There was a time when prosciutto and pancetta were esoteric products in the United States—now they are available at most grocery stores. Serrano ham, the national ham of Spain, is mainstreaming in the same way. There are similarities and differences among the three.

Prosciutto and Serrano hams are both cured from the back leg of a pig. Italian prosciutto, the best of which hails from the region around Parma, is salted for two to four weeks and then goes through two separate aging processes for six months each. While there are domestic brands of prosciutto, imported prosciutto has a more delicate flavor and moister texture than the American versions. However, the Italian ham is too costly for everyday cooking.

Serrano means “highlands” in Spanish, and the ham is cultivated in the mountain communities. It is salted for two weeks, and then air-dried for six to eighteen months, depending on the size of the cut, elevation, and ambient temperature. Serrano ham made from the Ibérico breed of pig is superior, so ham labeled as such is more expensive. You will have to search for freshly sliced Serrano ham, although presliced packages are showing up at markets.

Pancetta is made from pork belly, so it is really bacon and not ham. It is salted and cured in a way similar to prosciutto, but rolled into a cylinder with some herbs and spices. (The amount of these changes from brand to brand, as does the saltiness.) The high fat-to-meat ratio of pancetta makes it a great seasoning meat.

Many supermarkets now carry packages of diced prosciutto and pancetta that are perfect for cooking. Refrigerated, these keep for a few weeks. Or ask the delicatessen to cut ¼-inch slices of the cured meat and then dice them at home. All three meats can also be frozen in airtight containers for up to a few months, and thawed as needed.

Because their flavors change if they are browned too deeply, prosciutto, pancetta, and Serrano ham should be cooked gently. For this reason, instead of the usual practice of heating the oil separately in the cooking utensil until it is hot, I often heat the oil with the cured meat for better control of the browning process.

PINTO AND CORN SAUTÉ

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with grilled steaks or chops.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

Cooking Time: 10 minutes

Corn and beans have been culinary partners for eons. When I want a “dry” side dish to go with a sauced main course, this appetizingly colorful sauté is the way to go. With the addition of a couple of ingredients, it can be expanded into an excellent vegetarian chili. Either way, you can’t lose. Of course, you can change this up with your favorite beans—black beans are a nice alternative to the pintos.

½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

½ red onion, chopped

1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano

One 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsed

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and jalapeño and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the cumin and oregano.

2. Add the pinto beans and corn with ¼ cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans and corn are hot and the water has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve.

Quick Vegetarian Chili: Stir 1 tablespoon chili powder into the sautéed vegetables with the cumin and oregano. Add one 15½-ounce can plum tomatoes in juice (coarsely chopped, including juices) with the beans and corn. Bring the pot to a simmer and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomato juices have reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Mediterranean-Style Beans

In many countries around the Mediterranean, beans are simply cooked with seasoning vegetables, herbs, or spices as a side dish to roasted meats. Often the beans are topped with a spoonful of the roast’s pan juices for a final fillip.

WHITE BEANS WITH WINE AND HERBS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with roast lamb or pork roast; lamb or pork chops; grilled Italian sausage; or grilled salmon.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Make Ahead: The beans can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare

The combination of white beans and lamb is beloved throughout the Mediterranean, and I serve these beans often alongside slices of my own roast leg of lamb. These aromatic beans also make a fine bed for a platter of grilled fresh Italian sausages.

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1 garlic clove, minced

¾ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup dry vermouth or dry white wine

Two 3-inch sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Two 15-ounce cans white kidney (cannellini) beans, drained and rinsed

1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are softened, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, vermouth, thyme, and bay leaf and bring them to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the liquid is slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the beans and cover the saucepan with the lid ajar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are heated through and the liquid has reduced a bit more, about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and thyme stems. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The beans can be cooled, covered, and reheated for up to 1 day. Reheat in a covered medium saucepan over medium heat, adding water if the beans have absorbed the liquid, about 10 minutes.) Serve warm.

WHITE BEAN PURÉE WITH THYME-GARLIC CRUMBS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with pork or lamb roasts or chops; grilled chicken; or seafood.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus 1 to 8 hours soaking time

Cooking Time: 50 minutes

Make Ahead: The bean purée can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

The next time you serve a pork or lamb roast, forgo the mashed potatoes and make this wonderful bean purée. Topped with the meaty pan juices, it is a side dish that you will return to again and again. The crumbs make a nice textural contrast, but I often skip them and simply drizzle a tablespoon or so of extra-virgin olive oil over the purée.

PURÉE

1 pound dried white kidney (cannellini) beans, picked over for stones, rinsed, and drained

3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped

8 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled

Kosher salt

2 sprigs fresh thyme

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

BREAD CRUMBS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 cup soft bread crumbs, made in a food processor or blender from slightly stale crusty bread

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1. To make the beans: Put the beans in a large bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Let them stand in a cool place (or the refrigerator in hot weather) for at least 4 and up to 8 hours. (Or put the beans in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring them to a boil over high heat. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cover tightly. Let stand for 1 hour.) Drain, rinse under cold running water, and drain again.

2. Transfer the beans to a large saucepan. Add the broth, onion, garlic, 1½ teaspoons salt, and the thyme. Pour in enough fresh water to cover the beans by 1 inch. Cover the saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Set the lid ajar and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook at a brisk simmer, adding hot water to keep the beans covered, until the beans are tender, about 45 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the bread crumbs: Heat the oil and garlic together in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, just until the garlic softens without browning, about 2 minutes. Add the bread crumbs and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are toasted and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Transfer them to a plate and set aside.

4. Drain the beans, reserving the liquid. Discard the thyme stems. Transfer the beans, with the onion and garlic cloves, to a food processor. Add the oil and process, adding enough of the reserved liquid as needed (about ⅓ cup) to make a smooth purée. (Or, for a coarser purée, process the bean mixture and oil in the cooking pot with a stick blender, adding the reserved cooking liquid as needed.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The purée can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, adding water as needed to reach the desired consistency, about 10 minutes.) Transfer the purée to a serving dish, top with the crumbs, and serve.

FRENCH FLAGEOLETS WITH TOMATOES AND THYME

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with lamb and pork roasts or chops, leg of lamb, grilled or braised sausages, or grilled salmon.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus 1 to 8 hours to soak the beans

Cooking Time: 40 minutes

Make Ahead: The beans can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Flageolets are a cherished comfort food in France. Somewhat small, these white to pale green beans are always sold dried. They have an especially creamy texture, hold their shape well after cooking, and are commonly served alongside roast lamb or pork sausage. In fact, I often add smoked sausages (kielbasa, garlic sausage, or even franks) to the pot during the last twenty minutes of cooking to heat along with the beans. Sometimes, I purée the drained beans (adding enough of the cooking liquid as needed) for a nice alternative to mashed potatoes. You can substitute dried small white beans, if you wish.

1¼ cups dried flageolet beans, picked over for stones, rinsed, and drained

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 carrot, cut into ½-inch dice

1 celery rib, cut into ½-inch dice

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Four 3-inch sprigs fresh thyme

2 ripe plum (Roma) tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Soak the flageolets by either the traditional or quick-soak method according to the directions on this page for at least 1 and up to 8 hours. Drain well.

2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme sprigs and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the flageolets and enough fresh water to cover the beans by ¼ inch. Bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, adding boiling water to the saucepan, if needed, to keep the flageolets barely covered with liquid, until they are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes more. Discard the thyme stems and serve. (The beans can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat in a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.)

ITALIAN LENTILS AND PANCETTA

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Serve with pork and lamb roasts and chops; sausages; or grilled salmon.

Make Ahead: The lentils can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Cooking Time: 50 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Lentils cook more quickly than other dried beans, so you can feasibly serve these on a weeknight. Or serve them Italian-style, for a New Year’s meal (the beans represent coins for prosperity). This is a bean stew on its way to becoming a soup. In fact, I purposely use the entire bag of lentils for a large batch so any leftovers can be transformed into a soup with the addition of more broth. I really like these lentils with grilled salmon on top.

½ cup (¼-inch) diced pancetta or prosciutto

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 small carrot, cut into ¼-inch dice

1 small celery rib, cut into ¼-inch dice

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 pound dried brown lentils, picked over for stones, rinsed, and drained

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

3 large sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes

1. Heat the pancetta and oil together in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the lentils, broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1½ teaspoons salt, and red pepper flakes. Pour in enough water to cover the lentils by 1 inch. Bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the saucepan with the lid askew. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are almost tender, adding more hot water as necessary to keep the lentils covered, about 30 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices and increase the heat to medium. Cook at a brisker simmer until the lentils are tender and the liquid level is below the surface of the lentils, about 20 minutes more. Using a large spoon, mash some of the lentils into the liquid to thicken.

3. Discard the thyme stems and bay leaf. (The lentils can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat in a medium saucepan over medium heat, adding water as needed to reach the desired consistency.) Season to taste with salt and serve.

Lentil and Brown Rice Pilaf

LENTIL AND BROWN RICE PILAF

Serve with lamb chops; sausages, especially lamb; chicken; salmon; or grilled or roasted vegetables.

Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Cooking Time: 45 minutes

Mjeddrah (also spelled many other ways) is a Lebanese pilaf that is often served as a vegetarian meal with a heap of mixed green salad on top. I think that it is also a perfect side dish for smoky grilled food, especially lamb chops or sausages. Don’t let the long ingredient list discourage you, as it really takes very little effort to cook the pilaf and its crowning touch of caramelized onions.

PILAF

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 small carrot, chopped

1 small celery rib, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 bay leaf

¾ cup uncooked brown rice

¾ cup dried brown lentils, picked over for stones, rinsed, and drained

CARAMELIZED ONIONS

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 yellow onions, cut into ¼-inch half moons

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or mint, for garnish

1. To make the pilaf: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the salt, cumin, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf. Add the brown rice and lentils.

2. Pour in enough water to cover the mixture by ½ inch. Bring the pot to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover tightly. Simmer, checking and adding more hot water if needed, until the rice and lentils are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove the pilaf from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the caramelized onions: Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook, stirring often, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Cook uncovered, stirring often, until the onions are very tender and deep golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove them from the heat and cover to keep warm.

4. Drain the pilaf in a wire sieve, if necessary. Discard the bay leaf. Transfer the pilaf to a serving bowl and fluff it with a fork. Top with the onions and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve hot.

GARBANZO FLOUR FRIES WITH AÏOLI