THE BREAD BASKET

For holiday meals, I always serve a basket of freshly baked rolls, hot from the oven. But you don’t really need a special occasion or lots of time to bring freshly baked bread into your everyday cooking. Instant yeast has made bread baking easier than ever (and quicker, too, if you choose to go that route). There are also many quick breads (those leavened with baking powder, baking soda, or eggs) that you can have on the table in less than an hour, including preparation time, and biscuits and cornbread clock in at under thirty minutes. I have concentrated on rolls and other individual baked goods specifically because they cook quickly. You’ll also find poultry stuffings in this chapter, because their main ingredient is traditionally bread, although I have a gluten-free wild rice option, too.

• I prefer to bake with fine sea or table salt because I can be sure that it will dissolve in the batter or dough. If you want to substitute kosher salt, use about one-quarter more because the large crystals in the kosher salt fit more loosely in the measuring spoon than the fine salt does.

• These breads are meant to be enjoyed the day you bake them, but of course, leftovers can always be reheated at a later meal. When I have just a few rolls or a slice of cornbread, I use my toaster oven.

• In recent years, many home bakers have come to prefer weighing flour to the volume method of measuring in a cup. Weighing is more accurate because the volume method has too many variables, mainly the issue of how the flour is packed or mounded or leveled in the cup. I have provided both metric and volume measurements for flour (and similar dry ingredients) over 3 tablespoons. I am skipping ounces in favor of grams because the metrics are commonly found on the inexpensive digital scales sold at every kitchenware stop and online. Also, because the main problems in baking usually occur from inaccurate flour measurement, I have stopped short of giving the metric equivalent of every ingredient. All volume measurements are level, not heaped, with 1 cup of flour equaling 130 grams.

Cornbread

Surely the reason that cornbread is such an embodiment of solid country cooking is that it was so easy to make that it could be served at every meal. Preheating the oven is the most difficult part of the recipe. First, you whisk the dry ingredients together, literally dump in the wet ingredients, and stir a few times until the batter comes together. Then all you have to do is pour it into the pan. (Some recipes call for the pan to be heated in the oven first, a step that gives the bottom crust an extra bit of browned flavor.) You’ll also find hush puppies, a fried version of cornbread, in this section.

BUTTERMILK CORNBREAD

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Serve with Southern-style foods, especially fried chicken or barbecued ribs; grilled pork chops; or braised greens.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Cornbread and biscuits vie for the honor of “most beloved Southern bread,” and many barbecue places serve cornbread as a matter of course. This version is not too sweet, which I often prefer when serving cornbread with savory barbecued foods. The variation is a large-batch version (made with sweet milk and baking powder) to use for cornbread stuffing.

Vegetable oil, for the baking pan

1¼ cups (165 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup (95 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup buttermilk

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled

1 large egg

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly oil an 8-inch square baking dish.

2. Place the baking dish in the oven and heat until the dish is hot, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking soda, and salt together. In another bowl, whisk the buttermilk, butter, and egg together. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Stir just until the flour is moistened.

3. Remove the baking dish from the oven. Pour in the batter and smooth it evenly with a spatula. Return the baking dish to the oven. Bake until the cornbread is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let it stand at room temperature for 5 minutes. Cut it into squares and serve warm.

Cornbread for Stuffing: Use 2½ cups (325 g) flour, 1½ cup (130 g) yellow cornmeal, 2 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons baking powder (not baking soda), 1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt, 2 cups whole milk, 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted, and 2 large eggs. Spray a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish with the oil. Bake in a 375°F oven until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let it cool in the pan on a wire cake rack. Cut the cornbread into pieces and remove them from the pan. Crumble the cornbread into coarse pieces on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Let them stand, uncovered, at room temperature, for at least 18 hours to become stale. (The cornbread can be packed in plastic zip-tight storage bags and frozen for up to 2 months. Thaw the cornbread at room temperature before using.)

MOIST AND SWEET CORNBREAD

MAKES 6 TO 9 SERVINGS

Serve with ham, sausages, fried chicken, or shrimp.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

While I prefer my cornbread on the savory side, I have to admit that my guests absolutely love this thick version with a soft, muffin-like crumb. The sour cream and sugar make it incredibly tender.

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid, plus softened butter for the baking pan

1 cup (130 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup (130 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup sour cream

½ cup whole milk

1 large egg

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter the inside of an 8-inch square baking pan.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. In another bowl, whisk the sour cream, milk, and butter together, then whisk in the egg. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture, pour in the sour cream mixture, and stir just until combined. Do not overmix. Spread the batter evenly in the pan.

3. Bake until the cornbread is golden brown and a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let it cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Serve it hot or warm.

JALAPEÑO, BACON, AND CORN MUFFINS

MAKES 8 MUFFINS

Serve with Southern-style foods, such as fried chicken, barbecued ribs, pork chops, or braised greens.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to chill the bacon fat

Baking Time: 30 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

With just enough bacon to give them a meaty, smoky accent, but not so much as to make them heavy and porky, these muffins are useful for special celebrations when you want to gussy up cornbread. Because the butter is beaten to a fluffy state, the muffins have a cake-like texture. Be sure to cook the bacon at least 45 minutes ahead so you can collect and cool the fat before making the batter.

• Every professional baker I know uses a food service portioning scoop to transfer batter to muffin cups, giving the batter a nice round top that bakes into an attractive dome. The scoop of choice for common muffin cups is a ¼-cup capacity Number 16 (so-called because it takes sixteen scoops to make a quart), standardized with a blue handle for easy identification. For a few bucks, this utensil could make your muffin baking much easier.

4 slices bacon

¾ cup (95 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup (95 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons sugar

1 large egg, at room temperature

¾ cup whole milk

½ cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

1. At least 45 minutes before baking, cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, turning it halfway through cooking, until it is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain and cool. Pour the bacon fat into a custard cup or ramekin. Freeze it until cool and almost solidified, about 30 minutes.

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line 8 standard muffin cups with paper liners.

3. Coarsely chop the bacon. Measure out 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat and discard the remainder. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt together. In another medium bowl, beat the butter and bacon fat together with a handheld electric mixer on medium speed until combined. Add the sugar and beat until the fat is light in color, about 2 minutes. Beat in the egg. Reduce the mixer speed to low. (Or beat the butter, fat, and sugar together with a wooden spoon in a medium bowl until pale, about 4 minutes. Whisk in the egg.) In thirds, mix in the cornmeal mixture, alternating with two equal additions of the milk, mixing just until combined. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the chopped bacon, corn, and jalapeño. Preferably using a ¼-cup spring-loaded scoop, divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups, filling them half full.

4. Bake until the muffins are golden and a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Let them cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Remove them from the pan and serve warm.

BUTTERMILK

I always have a carton of buttermilk in the refrigerator—it keeps for weeks—because I use it so often. It is the secret ingredient of my favorite baked goods because its acidic components weaken the gluten in the flour to give a tender crumb. And I love it in ranch dressing, mashed potatoes, and more.

In spite of its name, buttermilk is actually a low-fat product. Shake the container well before using, as buttermilk tends to separate. If you need buttermilk for baking, you can substitute ⅔ cup plain low-fat yogurt (not the thick Greek yogurt) whisked with ⅓ cup whole milk for every cup of buttermilk. Or put 1 tablespoon cider or white distilled vinegar (or fresh lemon juice) in a 1-cup liquid measure and add enough whole or reduced-fat (not skim) milk to reach 1 cup. This substitute does not work for savory recipes, though, where the buttermilk flavor would be a factor.

BUTTERMILK AND SAGE SPOON BREAD

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with ham, sausages, or barbecued meats or poultry.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Spoon bread is a soft, spoonable cornbread that is almost a pudding. Sometimes I’ll add a couple of cooked and chopped slices of bacon or ½ cup shredded Cheddar cheese to the batter with the yolks.

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus softened butter for the baking dish

3 cups whole milk

¾ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup (130 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

1 cup buttermilk

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

3 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter an 8-inch square baking dish.

2. Bring the milk and salt to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, whisking often, until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the butter and whisk until it melts. Whisk in the buttermilk and sage. One at a time, whisk in the yolks.

3. In a medium bowl, use a handheld electric mixer at high speed to whip the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Stir about one-quarter of the whites into the cornmeal mixture. Fold in the remaining whites. Spoon the batter into the baking dish.

4. Bake until the spoon bread is puffed and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve it hot.

SCALLION AND JALAPEÑO HUSH PUPPIES

MAKES 3 DOZEN

Serve with barbecued meats and poultry, fried chicken, fried fish, or fried shrimp.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 3 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Company Fare, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

In the South, wherever there is barbecue (or fried chicken or fried fish, for that matter), hush puppies are usually not far behind. Crunchy on the outside and moist within, these puppies are everything they are supposed to be, and more. My recipe gets a boost from minced scallions and chilies. If you want to make a smaller batch, halve the ingredients, using 1 large egg yolk instead of the whole egg.

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1½ cups (195 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

½ cup (65 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup buttermilk

1 large egg, beaten to blend

¼ cup minced scallions (white and green parts)

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F. Place a wire cooling rack in a large, rimmed baking sheet.

2. Pour enough oil into a large, deep, heavy skillet to come halfway up the sides and heat it over high heat until the oil is shimmering but not smoking (350°F on an instant-read thermometer).

3. While the oil is heating, in a medium bowl, whisk the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Make a well in the center and pour in the buttermilk and egg. Stir with a wooden spoon just until moistened. Add the scallions and jalapeño and stir until combined.

4. In two or three batches, drop heaping teaspoons of the batter into the hot oil and cook, turning the hush puppies as needed, until they are golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the hush puppies to the wire rack and keep warm in the oven while making the rest. Serve hot.

Biscuits

I learned how to bake Southern biscuits from a friend’s grandmother, and I have continued to pick up tips from the many bakers I’ve helped with writing their cookbooks.

• Many cooks prefer low-gluten Southern flour (White Lily is the most popular brand), which is milled from soft wheat and difficult to find north of the Mason-Dixon Line. Yes, it is good, but that doesn’t mean you can’t bake biscuits with another kind of flour. In some of my biscuit recipes, I approximate Southern flour with a mixture of all-purpose and cake flours. And in others, I use unbleached all-purpose flour.

• Biscuits are not supposed to take long to make. They should be mixed in a few minutes’ time and popped into a hot oven. If the dough is handled too much, the gluten in the flour is activated, and you could end up with tough biscuits. So work quickly.

• Most bakers roll out the biscuit dough and cut out rounds. This creates scraps that must be collected and kneaded together for subsequent batches, and this toughens the gluten, so the second batches are tough and misshapen. To solve this problem, I cut the dough into rectangles or squares to bypass making scraps. I highly recommend this technique. It also avoids the cutting-out and rerolling process to reduce the time and fussiness factors.

• If you are a die-hard round biscuit fan, equip yourself with a 2½-inch round biscuit or cookie cutter. Roll or pat out the dough ¾ inch thick. Cutting out rounds as close as possible to each other, stamp out the biscuits without twisting the cutter. Place the biscuits, with the sides touching, on an ungreased, rimmed baking sheet. Gather up the dough scraps and press them together, just enough to eliminate the seams where the scraps meet. Do not knead the dough scraps into a mass. Repeat the rolling and cut out more biscuits until all of the dough has been used.

EVERYDAY BISCUITS

MAKES 8 SQUARE BISCUITS

Serve with fried chicken, creamed chicken or fish dishes, baked ham, meat stews, braised greens, or fried eggs and bacon.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian (if not made with lard)

These are the sure-fire biscuits that I make when I don’t happen to have buttermilk in the house. The kind of fat is almost immaterial, but each one is good in its own way. Butter gives its hard-to-beat flavor, and most of us have it on hand. However, shortening makes the fluffiest biscuits. (One Southern baker once said to me, “Why would I want to ‘waste’ butter in the dough when I am going to put butter on the biscuits anyway?” She had a point.) Lard has the tenderness of shortening while adding its own taste, which can be preferable when you are making a down-home Southern meal.

2 cups (260 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

½ cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, shortening, or lard, cut into ½-inch cubes

¾ cup whole milk

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt together. Add the butter and stir to coat it with the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the milk. Stir just until the dough is moistened. Lightly knead the dough in the bowl a few times, just until the dough comes together.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and dust the top of the dough with flour. Roll or pat the dough into a 10 × 5-inch rectangle about ¾ inch thick. Cut it into eight 2½-inch squares. Transfer the squares to a large, rimmed baking sheet, placing them close together, almost touching.

4. Bake until the biscuits are risen and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve them warm.

EXTRA-TENDER BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

MAKES 12 SQUARE BISCUITS

Serve with fried chicken, creamed chicken or fish dishes, baked ham, meat stews, or braised greens.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

These biscuits use a few tricks to ensure their melt-in-your-mouth lightness. The combination of low-gluten cake and unbleached flours reduces the total gluten percentage content, and the acids in the buttermilk tenderize the dough. This makes a slightly larger batch of biscuits than the Everyday Biscuits (above).

1½ cups (195 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough

1½ cups (190 g) cake flour

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

¾ cup (1½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

1¼ cups buttermilk

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the unbleached and cake flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Add the butter and stir to coat it with the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the buttermilk. Stir just until the dough is moistened. Lightly knead the dough in the bowl a few times, just until the dough comes together.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and dust the top of the dough with flour. Roll or pat the dough into a 15 × 5-inch rectangle about ¾ inch thick. Cut it into twelve 2½-inch squares. Transfer the squares to a large, rimmed baking sheet, placing them close together, almost touching.

4. Bake until the biscuits are risen and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve them warm.

ANGEL BISCUITS

MAKES ABOUT 15 ROUND BISCUITS

Serve with roast turkey, fried chicken, creamed chicken or fish dishes, baked ham, meat stews, braised greens, or fried eggs and bacon.

Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus at least 6 hours refrigeration time

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

These are a hybrid between a biscuit and a dinner roll, with a bit of yeast to add fluffiness to the flakiness. Another advantage is that this dough does not require kneading and can be mixed a couple of days ahead of baking, which is very helpful for a holiday meal. For those of you who like round biscuits, you can roll out the scraps without their toughening. Don’t ask me to pick my favorite biscuit, but I am very partial to this recipe, especially for my Thanksgiving menu.

2½ cups (325 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon instant (also called quick-rise or bread machine) yeast

¾ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

½ cup cold vegetable shortening or unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch chunks

1 cup buttermilk

1. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, yeast, and salt together. Add the shortening, and cut it into the flour mixture with a pastry blender or two forks until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the buttermilk to make a shaggy dough. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and cut it in half.

2. Place each dough half in a 1-gallon plastic zip-tight bag and close. Refrigerate the dough for at least 6 hours or up to 2 days. If refrigerated for longer than 6 hours, punch down the dough whenever it occurs to you, but no less than twice every 24 hours.

3. Position racks in the top third and lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead it briefly. On a lightly floured surface, pat out the dough with lightly floured hands (or dust the top of the dough with flour and roll out to ¾ inch thick. Using a 2½-inch round biscuit or cookie cutter, cut out biscuits and place them 1 inch apart on 2 ungreased large, rimmed baking sheets. Gather up the dough scraps and knead them briefly to combine; repeat the procedure until the dough is all cut out.

4. Bake, switching the positions of the baking sheets from top to bottom halfway during baking, until the biscuits are barely golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve them warm.

WHOLE WHEAT, CHEDDAR, AND SAGE DROP BISCUITS

MAKES 9 BISCUITS

Serve with roast turkey, fried chicken, creamed chicken or fish dishes, baked ham, meat stews, braised greens, or fried eggs and bacon.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

Don’t feel like rolling out biscuit dough? Then drop dollops of this soft, flavor-packed dough onto a baking sheet for a more rustic look. These savory biscuits, redolent of sage, are terrific for sopping up gravy.

1 cup (130 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup (135 g) whole-wheat flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

½ cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (2 ounces)

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage or 1½ teaspoons dried

1 cup whole milk, as needed

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the unbleached and whole-wheat flours, baking powder, sugar, and salt together. Add the butter and stir to coat it with the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Add the Cheddar cheese and sage and stir to coat the cheese. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture. Stir in enough of the milk to make a moist, spoonable dough. Using a soup spoon, drop 9 mounds of the dough about 1 inch apart onto the baking sheet.

3. Bake until the biscuits are risen and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve them warm.

Yeasted Dinner Breads

I have a soft spot in my heart for freshly baked dinner rolls, and I serve them as often as I can to my guests. That actually turns out to be quite often, because they are not difficult to make at all. Part of this newfound ease is thanks to instant yeast (also called bread machine or quick-rising yeast).

• Old recipes asked the home baker to dissolve the active dry yeast (which is a different yeast strain) in warm water. The water had to be the right temperature to dissolve the yeast granules—water that was too hot would kill the yeast, and if it was too cold, the yeast wouldn’t dissolve. Rather than deal with the water temperature issue, many home bakers just threw in the towel.

• With instant yeast, you can use cold or hot (no higher than 140°F) tap water. If you use hot water, the yeast will go into its quick-rising mode, and the dough will rise in about 45 minutes for the first rise and 30 minutes for the second. If you use cold water, the dough will rise at the same rate as the active dry yeast, about 1½ hours for the first rise and 45 minutes for the second.

• Even if you use hot water to decrease the rising time, it may be more convenient to make the dough the night before. Be sure that the dough is well-covered, and refrigerate it for up to 18 hours. Let the covered dough stand at room temperature for about 2 hours to lose its chill before shaping, the second rise, and baking.

• A heavy-duty stand mixer will also change the way you bake bread. Like most people, I learned how to knead bread by hand, and I still enjoy the Zen-like rhythm of this activity. But using a mixer frees my hands to do other things during the 8 minutes or so that the mixer does the work, and in most kitchens, there is usually always something else that needs to be done.

• A high-gluten flour will also improve your bread and give it better texture and flavor. Gluten is the combination of enzymes in wheat flour that strengthens the dough and gives it structure. “All-purpose flour” is not really a useful term, because the standard bleached version has a moderate gluten count that is really only good for cookies, cakes, and some pastry doughs. The amount of gluten in unbleached all-purpose flour changes dramatically from brand to brand. I use bread flour, which has a reliably high gluten content, for most of my yeast doughs.

• All of these dinner rolls can be baked, cooled, and wrapped in aluminum foil up to 8 hours ahead. (Reheat them in the foil in a preheated 350°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes.)

BUTTERMILK CLOVERLEAF ROLLS

MAKES 12 ROLLS

Serve with just about any roast or stew, from beef to chicken.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus about 2¼ hours rising time

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Buttermilk gives these rolls a gentle tang and a tender crumb. The old-fashioned cloverleaf shape is easy to create, and its professional appearance will have your guests thinking that you bought the rolls at the best bakery in town. Cutting the larger balls into marble-sized orbs takes only a few minutes, and kids love to help with this step. You can simply place the large balls in the muffin cups and bake for the same amount of time, but I hope I have convinced you to give the cloverleaf rolls a try.

1 cup buttermilk

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the bowl

1 large egg

2 tablespoons sugar

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

3¼ cups (420 g) bread flour, as needed

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid

1. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Whisk the buttermilk, softened butter, egg, sugar, yeast, salt, and baking soda together in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes.

To make the dough by hand: In a large bowl, whisk the buttermilk, softened butter, egg, sugar, yeast, salt, and baking soda together. Add 1 cup of the flour and whisk well to make a thick batter and break up the butter. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour.

2. Butter a medium bowl with softened butter. Shape the dough into a ball, add it to the bowl, turn to coat it with the butter, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

3. Lightly butter the cups of a 12-cup muffin pan. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions. Shape each dough portion into a taut ball. For each roll, cut the ball into thirds, and shape it into 3 small balls. Place the balls side by side in a muffin cup. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let it stand in a warm place until the balls have almost doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.

4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

5. Generously brush the tops of the balls with the melted butter. Bake until the rolls are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let them stand for 5 minutes. Serve them warm.

OLD-FASHIONED DINNER ROLLS

MAKES 12 ROLLS

Serve with just about any roast or stew, from beef to chicken.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus about 2¼ hours of rising time

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Vegetarian, Cooking Classic

As much as I recommend mashed potatoes or buttermilk in dough, this wonderful recipe shows that you can make excellent dinner rolls with everyday ingredients. This is the classic formula for pain de mie (“crumb bread” in French), whose fine texture is so renowned that it gives the loaf its name. This dough makes top-notch rolls, too.

DOUGH

1 cup whole milk

2 large eggs

4 teaspoons sugar

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt

4 cups (520 grams) bread flour

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the bowl

GLAZE

1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon whole milk

1. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Whisk the milk, eggs, sugar, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. A tablespoon at a time, beat in the softened butter. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes.

To make the dough by hand: In a large bowl, whisk the milk, eggs, sugar, yeast, and salt together. Gradually stir in enough of the flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Using floured hands, add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time, and knead and squeeze the butter until it is absorbed into the dough. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour.

2. Butter a medium bowl with softened butter. Shape the dough into a ball, add it to the bowl, turn to coat it with the butter, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

3. Lightly butter the inside of an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking pan. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface and knead briefly. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions and shape each into a taut ball. Arrange the balls evenly apart, with the smooth sides up, in the pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let it stand in a warm place until the balls have almost doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.

4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

5. To make the glaze: In a small bowl, whisk the yolk and milk together. Lightly brush the tops of the balls with the yolk glaze. Bake until the rolls are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let them stand for 5 minutes. (The rolls can be baked, cooled, and wrapped in aluminum foil up to 8 hours ahead. Reheat in a preheated 350°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes.) Serve them warm.

Fluffy Potato Rolls

FLUFFY POTATO ROLLS

MAKES 1 DOZEN

Serve with just about any roast or stew, from beef to chicken, as part of a buffet or barbecue.

Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus about 2¼ hours rising time

Cooking Time: 20 minutes (for the potatoes)

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Vegetarian

When I tell you that these are the fluffiest, lightest rolls on earth, I mean it. Cooked potatoes replace some of the flour, which reduces the gluten to increase the rolls’ tenderness. There are recipes that use leftover or instant (phooey) mashed potatoes, but these big rolls are best made with freshly cooked spuds.

1 medium baking potato, such as russet, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

¼ cup sugar

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid, plus softened butter for the bowl

1 large egg

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt

3 cups (390 g) bread flour, as needed

1. Put the potato chunks in a small saucepan and add enough cold unsalted water to cover by 1 inch. Bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a brisk simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Strain them in a wire sieve over a bowl, reserving the cooking water. Rub the potatoes through the sieve into a bowl. Measure ½ cup of cooked potatoes and ⅔ cup of cooking water, discarding the remaining potatoes and cooking water. (Or use them in a soup.)

2. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Pour the reserved cooking water and potatoes into the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Add the sugar, 5 tablespoons of the melted butter, the egg, yeast, and salt. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes.

To make the dough by hand: Pour the reserved cooking water and potatoes into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar, 5 tablespoons of the melted butter, the egg, yeast, and salt. Gradually stir in enough flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour.

3. Butter a medium bowl with the softened butter. Shape the dough into a ball, add it to the bowl, turn to coat it with the butter, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

4. Brush the inside of an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking pan with a little of the remaining melted butter. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface and knead briefly. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions. Shape each dough portion into a taut ball. Place the balls, spaced evenly apart with the smooth sides up, in the baking pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let it stand in a warm place until the balls have almost doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

5. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

6. Re-melt the and cool the remaining butter, if necessary. Generously brush the tops of the balls with the melted butter. Bake until the rolls are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let them stand for 5 minutes. Serve them warm.

BRAZILIAN CHEESE ROLLS

MAKES 1 DOZEN

Serve with stews or sauce-based entrées; or Latino main courses.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cooking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The rolls can be made up to 8 hours ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

Made from gluten-free tapioca (cassava) flour, these crusty rolls have a moist, chewy interior and are a Brazilian classic. Not only are they delicious, they can be mixed to served in about thirty minutes. Romano stands in for the traditional Brazilian cheese.

Nonstick cooking oil spray, for the muffin pan

½ cup whole milk

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

2 cups (240 g) tapioca flour (see Note)

2 large eggs, beaten to blend, at room temperature

1½ cups grated Romano cheese (6 ounces)

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray a 12-cup muffin pan with the oil.

2. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring ½ cup water to a simmer with the milk, butter, and salt, stirring to melt the butter. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a heavy-duty standing mixer. Add the tapioca flour and fit the mixer with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium-low speed until the mixture is warm and looks like smooth cake icing, about 4 minutes. Gradually mix in the beaten eggs. With the mixer on low speed, mix in the Romano. The batter will be thick and sticky.

3. Using an oiled ¼-cup spring-loaded scoop or two soup spoons (one to scoop up the batter, and another to scrape it from the first spoon into the muffin cup), divide the batter among the muffin cups. Bake until the rolls are crusty and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Run a knife around each roll to loosen it from the pan. Let them cool in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve them warm. (The rolls are also excellent cooled to room temperature, although the creamy interior will firm up.)

Note: Because of the popularity of gluten-free cooking, tapioca flour (also called tapioca starch) is no longer a specialty item and is found in the baking or natural foods aisle at many supermarkets. Bob’s Red Mill is the most popular brand. Tapioca flour is also sold at Latino markets as manioc or cassava flour/starch (also labeled almidón dulce in Spanish or amido doce in Portuguese).

PUMPERNICKEL ALE ROLLS

MAKES 1 DOZEN

Serve with hearty soups, such as borscht; or stews and other entrées with sauces, especially those with Eastern European flavors.

Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus about 2¼ hours rising time

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Now that I can find dark rye flour at my supermarket so easily, I bake these dark brown rolls with the flavor trifecta of onion, dill, and caraway often. Their heartiness makes them very satisfying with soup on a cold day. A few tips for working with this dough: For the best flavor, use a moderately bitter ale, such as amber or pale, but not a hoppy India pale ale. Remember that bread dough with high grains content should be tacky, so don’t add more flour to compensate. Dried onion is easiest to use because the fresh onion gives off moisture that changes the dough texture. Finally, don’t let the cocoa throw you off, as it is used more as a coloring than a flavoring.

1 cup amber or pale ale, at room temperature

1 tablespoon molasses (not blackstrap)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon natural or Dutch-processed cocoa powder

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

2 cups (260 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed

1 cup (120 g) dark rye flour (see Note)

1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt

1 tablespoon chopped dried onion

2 teaspoons dried dill seed

2 teaspoons dried caraway seed

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid, plus softened butter for the bowl

1. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Pour the ale, molasses, oil, cocoa, and yeast into the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Add 1 cup of the unbleached flour with the rye flour and salt. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the remaining unbleached flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes. During the last minute or so, add the onion, dill seed, and caraway seed.

To make the dough by hand: In a large bowl, combine the ale, molasses, oil, cocoa, and yeast. Stir in 1 cup of the unbleached flour with the rye flour and salt. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining unbleached flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour. Pat out the dough into a thick rectangle. Sprinkle it with the onion, dill, and caraway and roll it up into a cylinder. Knead it for a minute more to distribute the onion, dill, and caraway.

2. Butter a medium bowl with softened butter. Shape the dough into a ball, add it to the bowl, turn to coat it with the butter, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

3. Brush the inside of an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking pan with some of the melted butter. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface and knead briefly. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions. Shape each dough portion into a taut ball. Place the balls, spaced evenly apart with the smooth sides up, in the baking pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let it stand in a warm place until the balls have almost doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.

4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

5. Remelt and cool the remaining butter, if necessary. Brush the tops of the balls with the melted butter. Bake until the top of the rolls are browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let them stand for 5 minutes. Serve them warm.

Pumpernickel Raisin Rolls: This slightly sweet variation is very popular at New York bakeries. Omit the dried onion, dill, and caraway. Knead ½ cup golden raisins into the finished dough.

Note: Dark rye flour, unlike light rye flour, contains the bran and germ, which gives the rolls a darker color and richer flavor. It is sold at natural food stores and most supermarkets. If the flour is just labeled “rye flour,” it is usually light rye, which can be used in this recipe, although the rolls will be lighter in color.

SWEET POTATO AND PECAN DINNER ROLLS

MAKES 1 DOZEN

Serve with roast pork, baked ham, roast chicken, or turkey.

Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus 30 minutes cooling time and 2¼ hours rising time

Cooking Time: 8 minutes to 1 hour (for cooking the yam)

Baking Time: 25 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Vegetarian

Roasted orange sweet potatoes give these mildly sweet rolls an autumnal orange color, but the yam flavor is subtle. That’s actually a plus, so you can serve these for a holiday menu with another sweet potato dish and not worry about repeating flavors. The yams should be microwaved or baked in a conventional oven because they will soak up too much water if boiled and throw off the amount of flour needed to make the dough.

1 large orange-fleshed sweet potato (yam; about 12 ounces) pierced a few times with a fork

½ cup whole milk

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, thinly sliced, plus softened butter for the bowl and pan

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

1¼ teaspoons fine sea or table salt

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

3¼ cups (425 g) bread flour, as needed

½ cup coarsely chopped pecans

1 large egg yolk, beaten

1. Cook the sweet potato in a microwave oven on high until tender, 5 to 8 minutes, depending on the wattage of your oven. (Or bake it on a rimmed baking sheet in a preheated 400°F oven until tender, about 1 hour.) Let it cool until easy to handle, about 30 minutes. Peel the sweet potato, transfer the flesh to a small bowl, and mash it with a fork. Measure and reserve ½ cup mashed sweet potato and let it cool completely, about 30 minutes. Discard the remaining sweet potato or save it for another use.

2. Bring the milk to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove it from the heat and add the sliced butter. Let it stand until the butter is melted. Add the reserved mashed sweet potatoes, ¼ cup water, the brown sugar, and salt.

3. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Pour the sweet potato mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Stir in the yeast. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes. During the last minute, add the pecans.

To make the dough by hand: Pour the sweet potato mixture into a large bowl. Stir in the yeast. Gradually stir in enough of the flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour. Pat the dough into a thick rectangle. Sprinkle it with the pecans and roll it up into a cylinder. Knead it briefly to distribute the pecans.

4. Gather up the dough into a ball. Generously butter a medium bowl with softened butter. Shape the dough into a ball, add it to the bowl, turn to coat it with the butter, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

5. Butter the inside of an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking pan. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface and knead briefly. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions. Shape each dough portion into a taut ball. Arrange the balls evenly spaced, with the smooth sides up, in the baking pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let it stand in a warm place until the balls have almost doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.

6. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

7. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1 tablespoon water. Lightly brush the tops of the balls with the yolk glaze. Bake until the rolls are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let them stand for 5 minutes. Serve them warm.

Seeded Bread Stick Twists

SEEDED BREAD STICK TWISTS

MAKES 14 BREAD STICKS

Serve with Italian pasta dishes, salads, or soups.

Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus about 3 hours rising and refrigeration times

Baking Time: 20 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated for up to 18 hours before baking; allow 2 hours standing time before shaping.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

These attractive bread sticks, with barber pole–like twists of seeds, can really jazz up a simple meal of lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs. I often use three or four different seeds, applying them on the dough in separate sections, or use a combination for an “everything” version. The dough is easiest to twist if it is chilled, so make room in the refrigerator before you cut it into strips.

DOUGH

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bowl

One ¼-ounce package instant (quick-rising or bread machine) yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

Fine sea or table salt

1 teaspoon sugar

3¼ cups (425 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed

1 large egg white

Pinch of fine sea or table salt

3 tablespoons sesame, black sesame, poppy, flax, caraway, or nigella (see Note) seeds

1. To make the dough in a stand mixer: Combine 1¼ cups cold water with the oil, yeast, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Fit the bowl on the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in enough of the flour to make a dough that cleans the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook. Mix on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, supple, and elastic, occasionally pulling it down as it climbs up the dough hook, about 8 minutes.

To make the dough by hand: In a large bowl, whisk 1¼ cups cold water with the oil, yeast, salt, and sugar. Gradually stir in enough of the flour to make a dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn out the dough on a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, to make a soft, supple dough, about 10 minutes. The dough will be somewhat tacky, but do not add too much flour. If the dough does not stick excessively to the work surface, then it has enough flour.

2. Shape the dough into a ball. Oil a medium bowl. Add the dough to the bowl, turn to coat it with the oil, and leave it smooth-side up. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let it stand in a warm place until the dough has almost doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. (The covered dough can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.)

3. Turn out the dough onto an unfloured work surface and shape it into a rough rectangle. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Roll the dough into a 13 × 9-inch rectangle with the long side facing you. Transfer the dough to a large rimmed baking sheet and cover it with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough on the baking sheet until it is chilled, about 30 minutes.

4. Remove the dough on the sheet from the refrigerator and uncover it. In a small bowl, use a fork to beat the egg white and salt together until foamy. Lightly brush the surface of the dough with the egg white mixture. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the brushed dough and pat them gently to help them adhere.

5. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a pizza wheel or a sharp knife, cut the dough from top to bottom into 14 strips, each a little less than 1 inch wide. One dough strip at a time, lifting it just off the work surface, twist the dough, being sure to occasionally lift it up at the center (any part of the strip that touches the work surface will not twist) into a corkscrew shape about 12 inches long. The dough will be stretchy, but you’ll get the hang of it. Arrange the twists 1 inch apart on the baking sheets. Cover the sheets loosely with plastic wrap and let them stand in a warm place until they look somewhat puffy, about 1 hour.

6. Position racks in the top third and center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Uncover the bread twists. Bake until they are lightly browned, switching the positions of the pans from front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking, about 20 minutes. Let them cool on the pans. Serve them warm.

Note: Nigella seeds have a distinct onion flavor, and they are sometimes called black onion seeds, even though they are unrelated to the Lilium family. They are easily available at Indian markets, spice stores, and online. Like all seeds, store nigella seeds in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer, and they will keep for about a year. Use them in savory baking or sprinkle the oniony seeds on salads or dips.

OVERNIGHT FOCACCIA

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Serve with Italian-inspired menus, from spaghetti and lasagna to stews or roasts.

Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus 40 minutes resting and 18 to 72 hours refrigeration time

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Make Ahead: The dough can be made up to 3 days ahead. The focaccia can be baked up to 8 hours ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Why would you want to let focaccia dough rise overnight? Because that is the best way to give it a light, almost fluffy, crumb. I first learned this no-knead method (although the dough is “stretched”) from my friend, the very highly regarded baker and cookbook author Peter Reinhardt, and now it is my favorite technique to make this Italian flatbread. The dough is very moist, but that is the consistency required for the gluten in the flour to strengthen over time as it absorbs the water. You can even make the dough up to three days ahead before baking.

5½ cups (715 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon instant (also called quick-rising or bread-machine) yeast

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bowl, baking sheet, and drizzling

2 teaspoons fine sea or table salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary or thyme (optional)

1. In a large bowl, stir the flour, 2⅓ cups cold water, the yeast, oil, and salt together to make a wet, sticky dough. (The bowl should be large enough to contain the dough after it rises and doubles.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it stand for 10 minutes.

2. Using a hand rinsed in cold water, grab a quarter of the dough and stretch it above the rest of the dough by about 8 inches. Fold the stretched dough over to the center of the remaining dough in the bowl. Repeat three more times, working with a quarter of the dough at a time and rotating the bowl after each stretch. The dough will get slightly firmer after each stretching period. Tightly cover the bowl. (Or transfer the dough to a 6-quart or larger lidded food storage container, which will take up less refrigerator space.) Refrigerate the dough for at least 18 hours and up to 3 days.

3. Lightly oil an 18 × 13 × 1-inch rimmed baking sheet with oil. Line the bottom of the baking sheet with parchment paper, and oil the paper.

4. Scrape the dough into the baking sheet. Pat and stretch the dough to fit the pan. Loosely cover the top of the dough with oiled plastic wrap, oiled-side down. Let it stand in a warm place until the dough doubles in volume to almost reach the top edge of the baking sheet, about 1 hour.

5. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

6. Using your fingertips, press “dimples” all over the top of the dough. Drizzle the dough lightly with oil. Sprinkle it with the rosemary, if using. Bake until the focaccia is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let it cool for 10 minutes. Remove the focaccia from the pan and discard the parchment paper. (The focaccia can be baked, cooled, and wrapped in aluminum foil up to 8 hours ahead. Reheat in a preheated 350°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes.) Cut the focaccia into large rectangles and serve them warm or cooled to room temperature.

Quick Breads

These delicious breads are considered “quick” because they get their lift from chemical leavenings (such as baking powder or baking soda) or nature (eggs and air). They do not need a rising period before baking, and go right from the mixing bowl to the baking pan. And if you really want to treat your friends and family, make one of these recipes for a weeknight supper. These become stale fairly quickly, and are best served the day of baking, but I don’t have any trouble getting rid of leftovers.

BEER AND GOUDA BREAD

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Serve with just about any stew, pot roast, or oven-roasted meat with gravy.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 40 minutes, plus 15 minutes cooling time

Weeknight Suppers, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Here is a crusty loaf fragrant with herbs and cheese that can be ready for baking in minutes. The trick is to use a flavorful dark beer or ale (but not stout) and to avoid light-flavored beer (such as lager). If you can’t find aged Gouda, which is firmer and sharper than semi-soft young Gouda, try Asiago or sharp Cheddar.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted

3 cups (390 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon granulated onion

1 teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup (½-inch) diced aged Gouda cheese (4 ounces)

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme or sage or 2 teaspoons dried

One 12-ounce bottle dark beer (but not stout)

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the butter into a 9-inch cake pan or cast-iron skillet and set it aside.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, granulated onion, and salt together. Add the Gouda and thyme and stir to coat. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the beer and remaining 3 tablespoons melted butter. Mix just until the dough comes together.

3. Place the cake pan with the butter in the oven and bake to heat the pan without browning the butter, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and tilt to coat the bottom with the butter. Pour the batter into the pan and spread it evenly with a metal spatula. Return it to the oven and bake until the loaf is crusty brown and a bamboo skewer inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Let the loaf cool for 15 minutes. (This loaf is best if the beer’s alcohol flavor is allowed to dissipate before serving.) Remove it from the pan, cut it into wedges, and serve it warm or at room temperature.

SAVORY GREEN OLIVE MUFFINS

MAKES 8 MUFFINS

Serve with roasts, chops, stews, or roast chicken.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Baking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

These savory muffins flecked with green and red made their first appearance at my house for a Christmas dinner. They were such a hit that I have continued to serve them at summer cookouts and weeknight meals, too.

Nonstick cooking oil spray

1½ cups (195 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup (65 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese (2½ ounces)

1 tablespoon sugar

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

½ teaspoon granulated garlic

½ teaspoon granulated onion

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup drained and coarsely chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives

2 large eggs, beaten to blend

½ cup whole milk

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup low-fat plain yogurt (not Greek)

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 8 standard muffin cups in a muffin pan with paper liners. Spray the liners with cooking spray.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, cornmeal, ½ cup of the Parmesan, the sugar, baking powder, baking soda, oregano, granulated garlic, granulated onion, salt, and pepper together. Add the olives and stir to coat them with the flour mixture. In another bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, oil, and yogurt together until combined. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the egg mixture. Stir just until combined.

3. Preferably using a ¼-cup spring-loaded scoop, divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups, filling them half full. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan on the muffin tops. Bake until the muffins are golden brown and a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Let them cool in the pan for 10 minutes. (The Parmesan in the muffins may cause them to cling to the paper liners if the muffins are cooled for less than 10 minutes.) Remove them from the pan and serve them warm.

GRUYÈRE AND THYME SCONES

MAKES 8 SCONES

Serve with roast pork, roast chicken, or stews.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Baking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

The aroma of these thyme-flecked scones wafting through the house will certainly call the troops to dinner. They are no-fuss and do not require a cookie cutter—just pat out the dough and cut it into triangles.

2 cups (260 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan and the work surface

1 tablespoon sugar

2½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme or ¾ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon fine sea or table salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) cold butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

¾ cup shredded Gruyère or Swiss cheese (3 ounces)

¾ cup buttermilk

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, thyme, salt, and pepper together. Add the butter and toss to coat it with the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Stir in ½ cup of the Gruyère. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture. Pour in the buttermilk and stir just until the mixture is moistened. Knead the dough briefly in the bowl until the dough holds together.

3. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and pat it into an 8-inch disk. Cut the dough into 8 equal triangles. Transfer the triangles to the baking sheet, placing them about 2 inches apart. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup Gruyère over the tops of the triangles.

4. Bake until the scones are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve them warm.

PARCHMENT PAPER

For years, I fought against parchment paper. Waxed paper was good enough for me. And then I worked on a cookbook with recipes contributed by professional bakers, and not one of them used waxed paper. During the same period, parchment paper became more readily available, so I couldn’t use the excuse that it was too difficult to find.

I buy precut parchment paper sheets by the case now, because, unlike the rolled paper at the supermarket, the sheets won’t curl. I have virtually a lifetime supply, so I share some of the paper with my friends who are also home bakers. You can also find flat parchment paper online. If rolled parchment paper curls when you are lining the pan, spray the pan with a little cooking oil to help the parchment stick.

In my experience, silicone nonstick baking mats run a far second to parchment paper. The thick mats insulate the baked goods, preventing nicely browned bottoms that translate into flavor. Also the mats eventually absorb butter from the dough or batter, and when it goes rancid, the flavor will transfer to the food.

IRISH SODA BREAD

MAKES 1 LOAF; 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Serve with corned beef and cabbage, or meat stews.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 40 minutes, plus 15 minutes cooling time

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

This Irish bread is the real thing, with only four ingredients: flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk (standing in for soured milk, which is not easy to come by with today’s pasteurized dairy products). Rustic and earthy, with a crisp crust and chewy crumb, this is less sweet than the Americanized version (opposite).

2 cups (260 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface

1 cup (135 g) whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon fine sea or salt

1½ cups buttermilk, as needed

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, whole-wheat flour, baking soda, and salt together. Stir in the buttermilk to form a rough dough. (Add a little more buttermilk if the dough seems too dry.) Knead the dough briefly in the bowl, just until it comes together. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and shape it into a ball about 6 inches in diameter. Transfer the ball to the prepared baking sheet. Using a serrated knife, cut a large cross, about ½ inch deep, into the top of the dough. (This cross will open up during baking and help the dough bake more evenly.)

3. Bake until the bread is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, 35 to 40 minutes. Let it cool on the baking sheet for 15 minutes. Slice and serve it warm.

CURRANT AND CARAWAY SODA BREAD

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Serve with corned beef, lamb or beef stew, or sausages.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 45 minutes, plus 15 minutes cooling time

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

The beauty of authentic Irish soda bread (opposite) is its simplicity. However, when company is coming, I go for this version, with the added goodness of brown sugar and egg to make a sweeter, richer crumb, and both caraway and currants for extra flavor. No one in Dublin would recognize this, but it sure is delicious.

2½ cups (325 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

½ cup dried currants, seedless raisins, or golden raisins

1½ teaspoons caraway seed

1 cup buttermilk

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar, well crumbled

1 large egg, beaten to blend

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Stir in the currants and caraway seed. In a medium bowl, whisk the buttermilk, butter, brown sugar, and egg together until the sugar is dissolved. Stir them into the flour mixture to form a rough dough. (Add a little more buttermilk if the dough seems too dry.) Knead the dough briefly in the bowl, just until it comes together. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and shape it into a ball about 5½ inches in diameter. Transfer the ball to the prepared baking sheet. Using a serrated knife, cut a large cross, about ½ inch deep, into the top of the dough. (This cross will open up during baking and help the dough bake more evenly.)

3. Bake until the bread is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, 45 to 55 minutes. Let it cool on the baking sheet for 15 minutes. Slice and serve it warm.

BROWN BREAD WITH DRIED CRANBERRIES

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Serve with baked beans, corned beef, or sausages.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Steaming Time: 1¼ hours, plus 20 minutes cooling time

Make Ahead: The baked bread can be stored, wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 day.

Family Favorite, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

A Yankee cooking stalwart, steamed brown bread harkens back to the time when not every home had a reliable oven and yeasted breads were cooked on top of the stove. Today, this quickly assembled whole-grain bread is worth making for its rich, molasses-sweetened flavor. Old recipes steam the batter in a coffee can, which is not a good idea because coffee cars are not guaranteed to be heatproof. The bread cooks much more quickly and efficiently in a tubed pudding mold.

Softened butter and flour, for the pudding mold

¾ cup (105 g) plus 1 tablespoon whole-wheat flour

½ cup (60 g) dark rye or light rye flour

½ cup (65 g) yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

¾ cup buttermilk

½ cup molasses (not blackstrap)

1 large egg, beaten to blend

½ cup dried cranberries

Special Equipment: Collapsible steamer rack; 2-quart covered steamed pudding mold

1. Place a collapsible steamer in a large pot and add enough water to almost reach the bottom of the steamer. (If you have another kind of steamer, just set it up as needed.) Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Lightly butter a 2-quart tubed pudding mold, dust it with flour, and tap out the excess flour.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk ¾ cup of the whole-wheat flour, the rye flour, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt together. Make a well in the center, and pour in the buttermilk, molasses, and egg. Stir with a wooden spoon just until combined. Toss the cranberries with the remaining 1 tablespoon whole-wheat flour and fold them into the batter. Pour the batter into the mold and cover it with the lid or cover it tightly with aluminum foil.

3. Place the mold on the rack of the steamer. Reduce the heat to medium-low to keep the water at a steady, strong simmer and cover the pot. Steam the bread until a long bamboo skewer inserted into the center of the bread comes out clean, about 1¼ hours. Transfer the mold to a wire cake rack, uncover it, and let it cool for 10 minutes. Invert the mold onto a plate to unmold the bread. Let it cool for at least 10 minutes more. Serve it warm. (This quick bread stores well because of its moisture. Cool, wrap in plastic, and store at room temperature for up to 1 day. Reheat the bread in a microwave oven or toast slices in a toaster oven.)

POPOVERS

MAKES 6 POPOVERS

Serve with sauced chicken or seafood main courses, meat stews, or egg-based main courses.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 40 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Gorgeously puffed and golden, with crispy exteriors and custardy insides, popovers are American classics that unfortunately seem to be slipping into the “culinary endangered species” category. This version is from my grandmother’s recipe card, which I have used to create many variations, even though I love the original. While a special pan for baking popovers exists, it is fairly useless outside of its single purpose, and I much prefer to use a muffin pan. Also I find that the popover pan makes huge popovers, and that can be too much of a good thing.

• Popovers rise best when the eggs and milk for the batter are at room temperature. To do this quickly, place the uncracked eggs in a bowl of hot tap water to cover for 5 minutes and microwave the milk at medium (50% power) until it loses its chill, about 1 minute. Also, because the batter is thin, it is best to transfer it to a pitcher or 1-quart liquid measuring cup for easy pouring.

1 cup (130 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup whole milk, at room temperature

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

Vegetable oil, for the muffin cups

1. In a large pitcher or medium bowl with a pouring lip, whisk the flour, sugar, and salt together. Add the milk, eggs, and butter and whisk just until combined. (The batter should be slightly lumpy.) Set it aside and let it stand while the oven is preheating.

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush 6 standard muffin cups in a muffin pan with oil.

3. Place the muffin pan in the oven and heat until the pan is very hot, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Pour equal amounts of the batter into the buttered cups. Return the pan to the oven. Bake (without opening the oven door) until the popovers have risen and are a deep golden brown, about 35 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and pierce the side of each popover with the tip of a small, sharp knife to release the steam. Return the popovers to the oven and bake until they are a bit darker, about 5 minutes. Remove them from the cups and serve warm.

Bacon Popovers: Stir 2 bacon strips, cooked until crisp, cooled, and finely chopped, into the flour. If desired, substitute 1 tablespoon rendered bacon fat from cooking the bacon for the melted butter.

Cheddar or Gruyère Popovers: Add ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce to the liquid ingredients. Sprinkle ⅓ cup shredded sharp Cheddar or Gruyère cheese (about 1½ ounces) evenly over the popover tops before baking.

Dijon Popovers: Add 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard to the liquid ingredients.

Herb Popovers: Add 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives, oregano, rosemary, sage, or thyme to the flour mixture, or use 1½ teaspoons dried versions of any of these herbs, except chives.

Lemon Popovers: Add the freshly grated zest of 1 lemon to the batter with the liquid ingredients.

Nut Popovers: Add ¼ cup finely chopped pecans, walnuts, or skinned hazelnuts.

Parmesan-Pepper Popovers: Add ½ teaspoon freshly grated black pepper to the flour mixture. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese evenly over the popover tops before baking.

HERBED YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS

MAKES 12 PUDDINGS

Serve with roast beef or pork.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Baking Time: 30 minutes

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

Yorkshire puddings are popovers made with the rendered fat from a roast beef (and roast pork is good, too). The name reveals their British background, and I have found that they are unfamiliar to many Americans, which is a shame. To be sure that you have enough fat, ask the butcher not to trim the roast too closely, or ask for eight ounces or so of separate beef fat trimmings (you might have to purchase them) to cook in the roasting pan along with the roast. As for timing, bake the puddings while the roast is standing before carving. I always allow at least thirty minutes for this rest period, and believe me, the roast will not cool down too much.

7 tablespoons rendered beef or pork fat from the roasting pan

1½ cups (195 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or ½ teaspoon dried

¾ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups whole milk

3 large eggs, beaten to blend

1. Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Measure 3 tablespoons of the beef fat and set it aside. Spoon about 1 teaspoon of the remaining fat into each of 12 standard muffin cups.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, thyme, rosemary, salt, and pepper together. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the milk, eggs, and reserved 3 tablespoons beef fat. Whisk the ingredients together just until smooth. Transfer the batter to a 1-quart measuring cup. Pour equal amounts of the batter into the prepared muffin cups.

3. Bake until the puddings are puffed, golden brown, and crisp, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve them immediately.

Stuffings and Dressings

I worked for a turkey processor for many years, and traveled all over the country teaching Thanksgiving cooking classes. Along the way, I wrote books on holiday cooking, so I have learned a thing or two about that classic American side dish, turkey stuffing. (Call it dressing if you wish—they are the same thing.)

• You can stuff turkey without any food safety concerns. The stuffing in the bird should reach at least 160°F after roasting to kill any harmful bacteria. To reach this temperature, always stuff the turkey with a warm, freshly prepared stuffing, not chilled stuffing from the refrigerator. Never make stuffing ahead of time.

• To save some time on Thanksgiving morning, you can cook the stuffing vegetables (and any other ingredient that needs to be cooked, such as sausage or bacon) the night before and refrigerate them in a covered container. The next morning, heat the ingredients in a large skillet in a little vegetable oil or butter over medium heat to warm them up.

• I have nothing against prepared bread stuffing cubes, as they have a firm texture that holds up to the long roasting period. If you are using cubes cut from a loaf, let the cubes stand out overnight, uncovered, at room temperature, to stale slightly. Or bake them on large, rimmed baking sheets in a preheated 350°F oven, stirring occasionally, until dried but not toasted, about 15 minutes. The cubes will continue to crisp as they cool.

• You can only fit so much stuffing into the turkey body cavity and neck area. The stuffing that is left over after filling the bird should be transferred to a buttered baking dish, covered with aluminum foil, and refrigerated until ready to bake and serve. The size of the baking dish and the baking time will depend on the amount of stuffing. The recommended baking temperature and times in the recipes are estimates. At Thanksgiving, there are usually a variety of sides in the oven that need to be baked at the same time, so flexibility is a necessity when it comes to cooking times. Essentially, just bake the stuffing until it is hot, removing the foil about halfway through to crisp the top, if you wish.

CLASSIC HERB STUFFING

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Serve with roast turkey or goose.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 40 minutes

Make Ahead: The vegetable mixture can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

This old-fashioned recipe features all of the flavors that people expect from a traditional dressing. If you wish, use fresh herbs, substituting 2 teaspoons of finely chopped herbs for each of the dried versions.

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus softened butter for the dish

2 medium onions, chopped

6 medium celery ribs with leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried sage

1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary

1 teaspoon dried marjoram (optional)

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 16-ounce package seasoned bread cubes for stuffing

⅓ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cups Giblet Turkey Stock, as needed

Kosher salt

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and celery. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the thyme, sage, rosemary, marjoram, if using, and pepper. (The vegetable mixture can be prepared up to 1 day ahead. Reheat in a skillet over medium heat.)

2. In a large bowl, mix together the stuffing cubes, vegetable mixture, and parsley. Gradually stir in enough of the stock (about 1½ cups) to evenly moisten the stuffing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Use it immediately as a turkey stuffing.

3. Transfer any remaining stuffing to a buttered baking dish (the size depends on the amount of leftover stuffing) and drizzle with the remaining ½ cup stock. Cover the dish with aluminum foil, and refrigerate it to bake separately.

4. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the stuffing in the baking dish for 15 minutes. Uncover the baking dish and bake until the stuffing is hot and the top is lightly browned, about 15 minutes more.

Sausage Stuffing: Cook 1 pound bulk pork sausage or sweet turkey sausage, casings removed, in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up the meat with the side of a spoon, until the sausage is thoroughly cooked and shows no sign of pink, about 10 minutes. Add the sausage with any pan drippings to the stuffing.

Chestnut Stuffing: Add 2 cups coarsely chopped Basic Roasted Chestnuts to the stuffing.

Giblet Stuffing: Add the cooked and finely chopped giblets, liver, and neck meat from the Giblet Turkey Stock.

Oyster and Sausage Stuffing: I have a couple of friends who like oyster stuffing, so I often add oysters to the Sausage Stuffing for them. Drain ½ pint shucked oysters. Cut the oysters into bite-sized pieces and add them to 4 cups of the Classic Stuffing. Transfer the stuffing to a buttered baking dish, cover it with aluminum foil, and refrigerate it until ready to use.

BASIC ROASTED CHESTNUTS

For chestnut stuffing, you can purchase cooked chestnuts in jars or bags (look for these at Asian grocers), but freshly roasted chestnuts are a seasonal treat that should be savored. Here’s how to do it.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Using a small, sharp knife, cut a deep X in the flatter side of each chestnut. Place them in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the outer skin is split and crisp, 30 to 40 minutes. They never seem to be done at the same time, so work with the ones that are ready and continue roasting the others. Place the roasted chestnuts in a kitchen towel to keep them warm. Using a small, sharp knife, peel off both the tough outer and thin inner skins. To loosen the peels on stubborn, hard-to-peel chestnuts, return them to the oven for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, or microwave them on High for 1 minute.

The peeled chestnuts can be refrigerated in a covered container for a few days. One pound of fresh chestnuts equals about 2½ cups roasted and peeled chestnuts.

GIBLET TURKEY STOCK

MAKES 2 QUARTS

Use to make stuffing and gravy for roast turkey.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cooking Time: 2 hours

Make Ahead: The stock can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 3 months.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Cooking Classic

One of the best ways to upgrade your holiday turkey dinner is to use homemade turkey stock for the important side dishes of gravy and stuffing, which should taste like turkey and not plain canned broth. It’s an easy job to simmer the turkey giblets and neck with a few vegetables to make a broth worthy of your best bird.

• Reserve the turkey liver for another use; it will make the stock bitter. Give it to your cat or dog as a holiday treat, or sauté it and use it in the Giblet Stuffing. To use it in the stuffing, melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Trim the liver of any connective tissues and green areas, and season it lightly with salt and pepper. Cook it in the skillet, turning occasionally, until it is browned and barely cooked through when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, 8 to 10 minutes. Let it cool completely before chopping.

• I highly recommend adding the turkey wing to the stock because it really boosts the turkey flavor. However, turkey wings are not always easy to find at the supermarket, even during the holidays. If the butcher can’t chop the wing for you, do it at home. But don’t attempt to chop the heavy wing bones unless you have a cleaver—cutting the wing apart at the joints is sufficient. I mention this because I chipped a knife this way once.

• The foam that develops on the stock is only the coagulating collagen and gelatin from the bones, and it isn’t harmful, but it should be removed to keep the broth clear. Add the seasonings after skimming the stock or you will remove them with the foam.

• For a clear, delicious stock, let it bubble at a gentle simmer. If it boils, the fat will be suspended in the liquid, and the stock will look cloudy and taste greasy.

• A bowl of stock can take up a lot of room in the refrigerator (or freezer). For space-saving storage, transfer the stock to 1-quart delicatessen containers or similar receptacles.

• There will be a layer of solidified fat on the surface of the chilled stock. It should be removed from the stock, but don’t discard it. Save the fat to add to the roasting pan to create more drippings for the gravy.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Giblets (heart and gizzard, but not the liver) and neck from 1 turkey

1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 small carrot, coarsely chopped

1 small celery rib with leaves, coarsely chopped

1 quart reduced-sodium turkey or chicken broth

1 turkey wing (1¼ pounds), chopped apart at the joints with a heavy knife (optional)

4 large sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

⅛ teaspoon black peppercorns

1 small bay leaf

Kosher salt

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium-high heat. Using a large heavy knife, chop the neck into 1- to 2-inch chunks. Add the giblets and neck chunks to the saucepan and cook, turning occasionally, until they are browned, about 8 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are softened, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the broth and scrape up the browned bits in the bottom of the saucepan with a wooden spoon. Add the turkey wing, if using. (It is unnecessary to brown the turkey wing.) Add enough cold water (about 1½ quarts) to cover the ingredients in the saucepan by 1 inch. Bring it to a simmer over high heat, skimming off and discarding the foam that rises to the top of the stock. Add the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf.

3. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the stock is full-flavored, at least 2 and up to 3 hours. Season the stock lightly with salt, keeping in mind that the finished dish will be seasoned, too. Strain the stock through a wire sieve over a large bowl. Let it cool to room temperature.

4. Transfer the stock to covered containers. Refrigerate it for up to 2 days or freeze it for up to 3 months. Remove the solidified fat from the surface of the stock, reserving the fat, if desired.

Ham, Kale, and Cornbread Dressing

HAM, KALE, AND CORNBREAD DRESSING

MAKES 12 TO 14 SERVINGS

Serve as a stuffing for roast turkey.

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cooking Time: About 1 hour

Make Ahead: The ham mixture can be cooked up to 1 day ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Not a typical dressing (or call it stuffing, if you prefer), but still one that is a crowd-pleaser, especially now that so many people have come around to liking kale. I have also made this with diced andouille sausage instead of ham for a spicier version.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus softened butter for the dish

1 ham steak (12 ounces), cut into bite-sized pieces

8 ounces lacinato or curly kale, tough stems removed, coarsely chopped and washed well (but not dried)

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice

4 large celery ribs, cut into ½-inch dice

4 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 recipe Cornbread for Stuffing, crumbled into coarse pieces

2 cups Giblet Turkey Stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth, as needed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the ham and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. In two or three additions, stir in the kale with any clinging water, letting the first addition wilt before adding another. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale is tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer the ham and kale mixture to a large bowl.

2. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter to the skillet and let it melt. Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Uncover, stir in the scallions and garlic, and cook, stirring often, until the scallions are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the paprika. Transfer the vegetables to the bowl with the ham and kale mixture. Stir in the parsley and rosemary. (The ham and vegetable mixture can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat it in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring often, for about 5 minutes before using.)

3. Add the cornbread. Stir in enough of the stock (about 1½ cups) to moisten the stuffing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Use the stuffing immediately to stuff a turkey.

4. Transfer any remaining stuffing to a buttered baking dish (the size depends on the amount of leftover stuffing) and drizzle with the remaining ½ cup stock. Cover it with aluminum foil and refrigerate it to bake separately.

5. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the stuffing in the baking dish for 15 minutes. Uncover the baking dish and bake until the stuffing is hot and the top is lightly browned, about 15 minutes more.

SOURDOUGH AND ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES STUFFING

MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS

Serve with roast turkey.

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: About 1¼ hours plus 30 minutes cooling time for the vegetables

Make Ahead: The vegetables can be roasted up to 1 day ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Autumn root vegetables, with their firm textures and hint of sweetness, are especially wonderful when roasted, and can be turned into a fabulous stuffing. As a time saver, roast the vegetables the night before, if you wish. Don’t be afraid to let the vegetables get nicely browned—the caramelization will only enhance their flavor.

3 large carrots, cut into ½-inch rounds

2 large parsnips, cut into ½-inch rounds

1 large celery root (1¼ pounds), pared and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 large yellow onion, cut into sixths

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 loaf crusty sourdough bread (1 pound), cut into ½-inch cubes (about 10 cups)

⅓ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

2 cups Giblet Turkey Stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth, as needed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large eggs, beaten to blend

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Combine the carrots, parsnips, celery root, and onion in a very large roasting pan. Drizzle them with the oil and toss with your hands to coat the vegetables.

3. Roast, stirring the vegetables often, until they are tender and nicely browned, about 45 minutes. Let them cool until tepid, about 30 minutes. On a work surface, coarsely chop the cooled vegetables into pieces about ½ inch square. (The roasted vegetables can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, covered and refrigerated.)

4. Transfer the roasted vegetables to a large bowl. Mix in the bread cubes, parsley, rosemary, and sage. Gradually stir in enough of the stock (about 1½ cups) to make a moist, but not wet, stuffing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the eggs. Use it immediately as a turkey stuffing.

5. Transfer any remaining stuffing to a buttered baking dish (the size depends on the amount of leftover stuffing) and drizzle with the remaining ½ cup stock. Cover it with aluminum foil, and refrigerate it to bake separately.

6. Thirty minutes before you are ready to serve, preheat the oven to 350°F oven. Bake the stuffing in the baking dish for 15 minutes. Uncover the baking dish and bake until the stuffing is hot and the top is lightly browned, about 15 minutes more.

RICE MEDLEY DRESSING WITH BLUEBERRIES AND PISTACHIOS

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Serve with roast turkey or baked ham.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 50 minutes

Make Ahead: The wild rice mixture can be cooked up to 8 hours ahead.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

With the attention being paid to gluten-free diets these days, you may want to have a bread-free dressing with the holiday turkey. This festive-looking dish is best served on the side and not cooked in the bird, so the berries stay whole. Use any wild rice combination with a variety of grains for this—I used a generic brand from my local natural food supermarket—but read the instructions and tweak the recipe as needed if the rice you use calls for a different cooking time.

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

⅓ cup minced shallots

1 pound wild rice medley

3 cups Giblet Turkey Stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoons kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Two 6-ounce containers (about 2⅔ cups) fresh blueberries

½ cup pistachios, toasted

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the celery and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, about 3 minutes. Add the wild rice medley and stir well.

2. Add the stock, 2½ cups water, the sage, salt, and pepper and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover tightly. Simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 35 minutes. Remove it from the heat. (The wild rice can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Reheat in a microwave oven on high in a covered microwave-safe container for about 5 minutes.)

3. Add the blueberries and pistachios to the saucepan, but do not stir. Cover tightly and let them stand for 5 minutes. The retained steam will heat the berries and pistachios. Fluff the rice with a fork, mixing in the berries and nuts. Serve it hot.