CHICKENS WERE VALUED MORE FOR THEIR EGGS than for their meat in the traditional Mediterranean Jewish kitchen, as the sizable selection of delicious egg dishes that follows illustrates. As with the savory pastries in chapter 2, different names are used for similar preparations—sfongo, quajado, fritada, inchusa, almodrote—and how they are made varies from country to country and even from family to family. Not surprisingly, crafting a clear description of many of the egg dishes is a nearly impossible task. Some are vegetable gratins, others are vegetable bread puddings, and still others incorporate meat and poultry. Potatoes, bread, matzo, or cheese might be used as a thickener. The only constant is the presence of eggs. Even a dish we would typically call an omelet has different names. It can be an egga, ojja, kuku, marcoude, or fritada. Plus, the same dish can have one name if the eggs are beaten and added to the ingredients and another if the eggs are poached on top.
Eggs are also essential in the preparation of fritters, those irresistible fried tidbits that whet the appetite before the meal or might even be a simple main dish. I like to use a deep, heavy saucepan (or even a wok, which uses less oil than a saucepan) for deep-frying, but if you have a deep fryer, by all means use it. A Chinese wire skimmer, a flat slotted spoon, or even long cooking chopsticks, if you are adept at their use, are ideal for removing delicate fritters from hot oil. I avoid metal tongs, as the fritters are more likely to break. Olive oil—pure rather than extra virgin—is a good frying oil if the oil temperature does not exceed 375°F. Canola or safflower oil is also excellent.
Some fritters are accompanied by a dipping sauce made from tahini or yogurt that sets up a delicious contrast of crunch and creaminess. Others may need only a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. All of them will be warmly received by everyone at your table.
Long-Cooked Onion Skin EggsHUEVOS HAMINADOS
Often served at the Sabbath meal and during Passover, huevos haminados have long been part of Mediterranean Jewish cuisine. Cooks save brown onion skins during the week, then cook eggs under a bed of the skins, sometimes along with coffee grounds or tea leaves to ensure the eggs turn a rich brown. A dash of wine vinegar or a few whole spices are sometimes added to the cooking water along with the olive oil. The word hamin means “oven,” and traditionally the eggs were cooked in the oven of the local baker. Nowadays, they are easily prepared on the stove top. The eggs pick up a slight onion perfume and a creamy texture during the long cooking. Italians call these eggs uova turche (Turkish eggs), or if coffee grounds have been added to the pan, they call them uova inhaminade al caffè (eggs baked with coffee). Greeks call them Selanlik yamurta (Salonika eggs) or Yahudi yamurta (Jewish eggs). Eat them plain or serve them with sliced cucumbers and radishes or bread and goat cheese.SERVES 8
3 to 4 cups brown or red onion skins
8 eggs
1 bay leaf (optional)
4 whole cloves (optional)
8 black peppercorns (optional)
¼ cup black tea leaves, or 1½ cups coffee grounds
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Layer about half of the onion skins on the bottom of a heavy pot and place the eggs on the onion skins. Add the bay leaf, cloves, and peppercorns, then add the remaining onion skins and the tea leaves. Pour in cold water to cover, add the oil and vinegar, and cover the pot tightly.
Place the pot over very low heat and cook at a bare simmer for 6 hours. Check the pot occasionally and add water as needed to keep the eggs covered. Alternatively, put the pot in a 250°F oven for the same amount of time, checking the water level occasionally.
When the eggs are done, have ready a bowl of cold water in the sink. Scoop the eggs out of the pot and plunge them into the bowl of water, then let them sit under running cold water until they are cold. Peel just before serving.
Sephardic Eggs Baked with Cheese and TomatoesKEZO KOTCHO
This simple recipe, which is adapted from one in Méri Badi’s 250 recettes de cuisine juive espagnole, is not earthshaking, but it is one you will make again and again if you love eggs and cheese.SERVES 2
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large tomatoes, grated on the large holes of a box grater and skin discarded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 thin slices kashkaval, Gruyère, or mozzarella cheese
2 eggs
Warm the oil over medium heat in a sauté pan large enough to hold the cheese slices in a single layer. Add the tomatoes and sauté until almost melted, about 8 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the cheese slices in a single layer, then carefully crack an egg onto each slice. Cover and cook until the whites are set and the yolks are still soft, 5 to 6 minutes, or until done to your liking. Serve warm.
Chickpea and Chicken OmeletMERTZEL
Moroccan families serve this hearty omelet to break the Yom Kippur fast. Mertzel resembles a Spanish tortilla but is made with chickpeas instead of potatoes. It is part of a long Mediterranean Jewish omelet tradition that includes the Algerian meguina, made with vegetables, chicken, and eggs, the marcoude of Tunisia, and the almodrote, fritada, and quajado of the Greek and Turkish Jews. This version is a combination of recipes from two books, one by Martine Chiche-Yana and a second by Jeanne Ifergan and Marek Lebkowski. If you prefer to bake the omelet and do not have an ovenproof sauté pan, combine all of the ingredients as directed, then transfer the mixture to an oiled baking dish and bake the omelet in a 350°F oven for 20 to 30 minutes.SERVES 6
1 cup dried chickpeas
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bone-in whole chicken breast, cooked just until tender, boned, and diced
8 eggs, lightly beaten
Generous grating of freshly grated nutmeg, or pinch of saffron threads (optional)
Pick over the chickpeas, then place in a bowl, add water to cover, and let soak in the refrigerator overnight. Drain, rinse well, and transfer to a 2-quart saucepan. Add water to cover by 3 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer until almost tender, about 30 minutes. The timing will depend on the age of the beans. Remove from the heat.
Warm the oil in a deep nonstick sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, paprika, salt, pepper to taste, and the chickpeas and their liquid and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, adding a bit of water if the mixture is too dry. The chickpeas will have further softened and will have absorbed the spices. Just a little liquid should remain in the pan.
Add the chicken, eggs, and nutmeg to the chickpeas and mix well, then drizzle some oil over the surface. Cover, turn down the heat to low, and cook until the eggs are set and the sides are golden when gently pulled away from the pan, about 30 minutes. Unmold the omelet onto a serving plate and serve warm.
Potato and Egg CakeMARCOUDE
Marcoude is a North African version of the well-known tapas bar staple, the Spanish potato tortilla. It is sometimes called a cuajado, derived from the Arabic term qaş’ah, which is also the source of the term cazuela (cassola in Catalan), the popular Spanish clay cooking vessel. This Algerian recipe calls for “old” potatoes, or russets, rather than boiling potatoes. Some Tunisian cooks include ground chicken with the potato and offer the enriched dish at Passover. If you use only half of the eggs, this dish becomes a gratin or potato cake. Serve as a main dish or as a side dish.SERVES 8
2½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 to 6 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole
8 eggs, lightly beaten
3 spring onions, minced, or 6 green onions, including the green tops, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon ground toasted cumin (optional)
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil for brushing
Combine the potatoes and garlic with salted water to cover in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a bowl, and mash the potatoes and garlic with a fork. Stir in the eggs, onions, parsley, cumin, and nutmeg, mixing well. Season with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush a 10-inch round pie dish or gratin dish liberally with oil.
Spread the potato mixture evenly in the dish. Place in the oven and bake the cake until golden, about 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
Persian Potato OmeletKUKU-YE SIBZAMINI
Sibzamini translates to “apple of the earth,” a charming nickname for the modest potato. A kuku (sometimes spelled kookoo) traditionally combines eggs and vegetables. This combination of eggs and potatoes is particularly popular in eastern Iran.SERVES 4
1 pound boiling potatoes
¼ cup olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon ground toasted cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 eggs, lightly beaten
Combine the potatoes with salted water to cover in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes well. When cool enough to handle, peel and grate them on the large holes of a box grater.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a 10-inch pie dish or round gratin dish.
While the oven heats, warm the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, paprika, cumin, turmeric, and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then combine with the potatoes and the eggs, mixing well.
Spread the potato mixture evenly in the oiled dish. Place in the oven and bake the omelet until golden, about 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
Moroccan Layered Potato CakePASTELA
In Moroccan Jewish Cookery, Viviane and Nina Moryoussef call the meat filling in this layered potato cake migas, a classic Iberian term for crumbs. If you like, after brushing the top with egg, use fork tines to create a decorative pattern.SERVES 6
FILLING
8 ounces ground beef or lamb (not too lean)
1 yellow onion, chopped
¼ cup rendered chicken fat
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
½ teaspoon saffron threads
1 cup water
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon
3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces
7 to 8 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced crosswise
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
To make the filling, combine the meat, onion, chicken fat, parsley, saffron, and water in a sauté pan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the liquid has evaporated, about 20 minutes. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, vinegar, and lemon juice, stir well, and continue to cook until the meat mixture is dry, 5 to 7 minutes longer. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a 1½-quart baking dish with 2-inch sides or a 9-inch square baking pan or dish.
Combine the potatoes with salted water to cover in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a bowl, and then mash with a potato masher until smooth. Beat in 5 or 6 of the raw eggs, one at a time, until a smooth purée forms, and then add the salt. Reserve a little beaten egg for the final glaze. Spread half of the potato purée in the prepared baking dish.
Lightly beat the 2 remaining raw eggs and stir them into the filling. Spread the filling evenly over the potato layer in the baking dish and top with the hard-boiled eggs. Spoon the remaining potato purée evenly over the egg layer. Brush the top with the reserved beaten egg, decorate the top with fork tines, if you like, and then drizzle the oil over the top.
Bake the cake until golden, about 45 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Tunisian Omelet with Tomatoes, Peppers, and MerguezOJJA BIL MERGUEZ
The primary difference between an ojja (or egga, as it is sometimes called) and a shakshuka (see page 99) is that the eggs are stirred into the filling for an ojja and are cooked whole on top of a shakshuka. (Shakshuka is not to be confused with choukchouka, a salad of roasted peppers and tomatoes, also known as mishwiya in Morocco and Tunisia.) You may also make this without the merguez for a meatless omelet.SERVES 8
¼ cup olive oil
1 pound merguez, homemade (page 351) or store-bought, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 green bell peppers, seeded and sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide strips
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ teaspoon harissa, homemade (page 355) or store-bought, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon ground caraway
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
6 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
4 boiling potatoes, peeled, boiled until tender-firm, and cubed
¼ cup water
10 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the merguez and fry, turning once, until browned on both sides. Add the bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the diluted harissa, caraway, paprika, tomatoes, potatoes, and water, and stir well. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.
Add the eggs to the sausage mixture and stir over medium heat until the eggs have thickened and are creamy, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve at once.
Poached Eggs in Spicy Tomato SauceSHAKSHUKA
The Tunisian shakshuka (sometimes spelled shakshouka) has been adopted by the Israelis in a big way. Jaffa even boasts a restaurant called Dr. Shakshuka. Whereas in the ojja (page 98) the eggs are beaten and mixed in, here whole eggs are poached in the sauce. To reduce the possibility of breaking an egg yolk as the egg is added to the pan, each egg is cracked into a cup and then carefully slid into the simmering sauce.SERVES 4
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 or 6 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced, or 1½ cups crushed canned tomatoes
2 to 3 tablespoons tomato paste, if needed to enhance tomato flavor
1 tablespoon harissa, homemade (page 355) or store-bought, or more to taste
½ teaspoon ground cumin or caraway (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 eggs
Select a wide, deep sauté pan large enough to accommodate all of the eggs side by side and warm the oil over low heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to flavor the oil. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Add the tomatoes, raise the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they break down and form a sauce, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste the sauce and add some tomato paste if needed to boost the flavor, then stir in the harissa and cumin and season with salt and pepper. Taste again to make sure the sauce is to your liking, as once the eggs are dropped into it, you cannot make seasoning adjustments.
One at a time, crack each egg into a cup or ramekin and slide it into the sauce. Turn down the heat to low and, if you like, partially cover the pan. Cook the eggs until the whites are set and yolks are still soft, 5 to 6 minutes, or until done to your liking. Serve hot, using a large spoon to transfer the unbroken eggs along with sauce to each individual serving plate.
Summer Squash FrittataFRITADA DE KALAVASA
Yes, that word is familiar. The Sephardic fritada is related in name and style to the better-known Italian frittata. While this version adds bread for thickening, other recipes add mashed potatoes or matzos (during Passover). Still others simply add cheese to firm up the mixture, in the style of the inchusa or almodrote. To make the nomenclature even more confusing, some recipes call this a quajado. And some call for only eggs to bind, as in a classic omelet. I have taken the liberty of adding dill to the basic recipe, as it fits with the flavor profile of another zucchini almodrote recipe. Mint would also be a nice contrast. The original Turkish recipe called for peeling the squash, but I don’t find it necessary if you salt the squash to remove any bitterness.SERVES 6
2 pounds zucchini or summer squash, grated on the large holes of a box grater (about 6 cups loosely packed)
Salt
2 firm ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh dill
4 slices bread, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry
6 green onions, including green tops, minced
8 eggs, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Plain yogurt for serving
Place the grated zucchini in a colander in the sink, sprinkling it with salt as you go, and let it drain for 30 minutes. Rinse and squeeze dry and transfer to a large bowl. Add the tomatoes, parsley, dill, bread, onions, eggs, 1½ teaspoons salt, and the pepper and mix well.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish and place it in the preheated oven to warm.
Remove the dish from the oven and pour in the egg mixture. Bake the frittata until set and golden, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Accompany with the yogurt.
Baked Spinach with EggsINCHUSA DE ESPINAKA
This inchusa has no potatoes and is thickened with bread (though during Passover, matzo could be used). One recipe I found called for blanching the spinach and gave a choice of potatoes or bread. Another used finely chopped raw spinach. I have found it is best to blanch the spinach and drain it well so that it doesn’t give off too much liquid when it is mixed and then baked with the eggs. I know that four pounds of spinach seems like a lot of greens, but it shrinks considerably when it is cooked.SERVES 6 TO 8
4 pounds spinach
8 eggs, lightly beaten
4 slices coarse country bread, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed almost dry
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup ricotta or soft white cheese, such as fromage blanc
1 cup grated kashkaval cheese
Salt
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 hard-boiled egg, peeled and sliced
Stem the spinach, rinse well, and then place in a large pot with just the rinsing water clinging to the leaves. Cook over medium-low heat until wilted and tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well and chop finely, then transfer to a sieve and press out the excess moisture with the back of a spoon. You should have about 4 cups.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
In a bowl, combine the spinach, eggs, bread, oil, and cheeses and mix well. Season with salt and nutmeg. Transfer to the prepared baking dish.
Bake until set, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm, cut into squares and topped with slices of hard-boiled egg.
Persian Spinach and Herb OmeletKUKU-YE SABZI
How the Persians love mixed greens! They eat them raw with feta and bread, add herbs to their green salads, and take every opportunity to add sabzi (greens) to their cooked dishes, including to this simple omelet, which can be cooked on the stove top or in the oven. Some recipes call for adding ⅓ cup chopped walnuts or 1 cup cooked English peas or fresh fava beans to the mixture.SERVES 4 TO 6
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1 cup chopped leek, white and a little green
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup chopped fresh dill
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups chopped spinach
6 to 8 eggs
1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
Plain yogurt for serving
Warm 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and leek, sprinkle with the salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the cilantro, parsley, dill, turmeric, and pepper and stir well. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, just until the spinach wilts. Remove from the heat, drain in a sieve if very wet, and then transfer to a large bowl.
In a separate bowl, combine the eggs and flour and beat lightly just until blended. Add the eggs to the spinach mixture and mix well. Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add the egg mixture and cook until the eggs are just set and the sides are golden when gently pulled away from the pan, about 10 minutes. Slide the omelet onto a plate and return it to the pan, browned side up. Continue to cook until the bottom is set and golden. Slide onto a serving plate and serve hot or warm. Pass the yogurt at the table.
Sephardic Spinach Omelet for PassoverFRITADA DE ESPINAKA
Here is a basic vegetable omelet made with matzo for Passover that can be easily adapted to other vegetables (see variations).SERVES 6
2 pounds fresh spinach, stemmed and chopped, or 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen spinach, thawed
4 matzos, soaked in warm water for 1 to 2 minutes and squeezed dry
8 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup grated kashkaval cheese or ricotta or farmer cheese (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 2-quart or a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
In a large bowl, combine the spinach, matzos, eggs, salt, pepper, oil, and cheese and mix well. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking dish.
Bake the omelet until set, 30 to 45 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
VARIATIONS:
Leek Passover Omelet (Fritada de Prasa): Substitute 2 pounds leeks, white parts and a little green, chopped and sautéed in unsalted butter or olive oil until tender, for the spinach.
Swiss Chard Passover Omelet (Fritada de Pazi): Substitute 2 pounds Swiss chard, tough stems removed, blanched, and chopped, for the spinach.
Eggplant Passover Omelet (Fritada de Berenjena): Substitute 2 large globe eggplants (about 1 pound each), roasted as directed in Master Recipe for Roasted Eggplant (page 27), for the spinach. Drain the eggplant pulp as directed, then mash well.
Algerian Passover Matzo and Pea OmeletDJIADJIA TAIRAT
This Passover omelet is cooked in full-flavored meat drippings rather than oil. Chicken fat can be used as well. Garlic and chile make this a lively Mediterranean version of matzo brei, the classic Ashkenazi dish of scrambled eggs with matzo.SERVES 4
5 tablespoons meat drippings, rendered chicken fat, or olive oil
6 to 8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 cups water
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 bay leaf
1 small dried hot chile, crushed, or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground caraway or cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 matzos, broken into small pieces
1 cup English peas, blanched
6 eggs, lightly beaten
Warm the drippings in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the water, paprika, bay leaf, chile, and caraway, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the matzos and the peas and cook until most of the water has been absorbed, about 10 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium and pour the eggs over the matzo mixture. Using a fork, pull the edge of the omelet away from the pan sides so the uncooked egg will run down the sides. Continue to cook until the omelet is set but still quite moist, 3 to 5 minutes. Slide the omelet onto a plate and serve at once.
Leek and Potato GratinQUAJADO DE PRASA
In the community cookbook from the Sephardic Temple Bikur Holim congregation in Seattle, the word quajado is translated as “quiche,” which this dish resembles, though minus a crust. As noted earlier, the Arabic word for an earthenware cooking vessel is qaş’ah, so quajado has a logical historical origin. It might also be related to quesada, a type of Spanish cheesecake or cheese custard (or to queijada, which is Portuguese for “cheesecake”). The same term is used for the bread-based pudding on page 104, as well. This recipe is from Rhodes and is ideal for Passover. I like it rather peppery, and the dill is a nice addition.SERVES 8
3 pounds leeks (about 12 small, 8 medium, or 4 very large)
4 matzos (optional)
2 cups mashed cooked potatoes
1 cup farmer, cottage, or ricotta cheese
1 cup grated Cheddar, Gruyère, or kashkaval cheese
¼ cup chopped fresh dill (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Use the white and only a little of the green of the leeks. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then cut crosswise ½ inch thick. You should have about 6 cups. Immerse in a sink filled with cold water, then lift out and drain. Boil the leeks in lightly salted water in a saucepan until very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well, let cool, and squeeze dry. You should have about 2½ cups. Transfer to a bowl.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
If using the matzos, soak in warm water for a minute or two until soft, then squeeze dry. Add the matzos, potatoes, cheeses, eggs, dill, oil, salt, and pepper to the leeks and mix well. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking dish.
Bake the gratin until set and the top is golden, 35 to 45 minutes. Serve warm, cut into squares.
Tomato Bread PuddingQUAJADO DE TOMATE
This recipe is a delectable cross between an omelet and a bread pudding and is one of the joys of the summer tomato season. The term quajado, like the term cuajado (page 96), is related to the Spanish cazuela. In her award-winning book Traditional Spanish Cooking, Janet Mendel includes a recipe for cuajado de almendra, an almond bread pudding, so the word is still in use in Spain. For this wonderful dish, only full-flavored seasonal tomatoes need apply.SERVES 6 TO 8
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (about 6 cups)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sugar, as needed
4 slices coarse country bread, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry
6 to 8 eggs, lightly beaten
4 to 6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
8 ounces kashkaval cheese or 4 ounces each Gruyère and Parmesan cheese, grated
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
Place the tomatoes in a colander in the sink, sprinkling them with salt and a bit of sugar to draw out the excess moisture as you go. Let drain for 1 hour.
Transfer the tomatoes to a bowl and add the bread, eggs, parsley, and all but about ⅓ cup of the cheese. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Spoon into the prepared baking dish and top with the remaining cheese.
Bake the pudding until golden, about 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
Eggplant GratinALMODROTE DE BERENJENA
The word almodrote is of Arabic origin. This recipe appears in nearly every Sephardic cookbook and dates back to Moorish Spain. In medieval Catalonia, almodroc referred to a dish with garlic, eggs, and cheese. Somewhere along the way the garlic disappeared, but the cheese and eggs remained. The variables that I find with this recipe have to do with proportions: more or fewer eggplants, more or less cheese, more or fewer eggs. Some recipes include bread as a thickener; others are lighter with no bread at all. If you want to return the garlic to the concept, add a clove or two, well minced, to the mashed eggplant. Some chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or dill would also be a good addition.SERVES 8
3 large globe eggplants (about 3 pounds total weight)
4 slices coarse country bread, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry
8 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup ricotta or other fresh white cheese, or 6 ounces not-too-salty feta cheese, crumbled
8 ounces kashkaval or Gruyère cheese, grated
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1½ to 2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Roast the eggplants as directed in Master Recipe for Roasted Eggplant (page 27). After draining the pulp, transfer it to a large bowl. You should have 2 to 2½ cups pulp.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
Mash the eggplant well. Add the bread, eggs, ricotta cheese, all but ⅓ cup of the grated cheese, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and the salt and pepper, and mix well. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking dish, top with the remaining ⅓ cup grated cheese, and drizzle evenly with the remaining 3 tablespoons oil.
Bake the gratin until set and golden, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
VARIATION:
Summer Squash Gratin (Almodrote de Kalavasa): Substitute 2½ to 3 pounds summer squash or zucchini, grated on the large holes of a box grater and squeezed dry, for the eggplant. Proceed as directed, adding ½ cup chopped fresh dill with the eggs, cheese, and bread.
Lebanese Cauliflower Fritters with Yogurt Dipping SauceQARNABEET MAKLI
Although these fritters are delicious on their own, dressed with just a squeeze of lemon, they are even better accompanied with the yogurt sauce included here. Or, if you want to serve the fritters for a meat meal, accompany them with a tahini dip (page 112).SERVES 4 TO 6
FRITTERS
1 cauliflower, cut into 1- to 1½-inch florets
4 eggs
¾ cup all-purpose flour
⅓ cup water, plus more if needed
½ cup finely minced yellow onion or green onion, including green tops
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup chopped fresh mint
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Canola, safflower, or olive oil for deep-frying
YOGURT DIPPING SAUCE
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Grated zest of 1 lemon or 2 small limes
¼ cup fresh lemon or lime juice
Salt
2 teaspoons minced garlic (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, dill, or cilantro (optional)
Lemon wedges for serving
To make the fritters, simmer the cauliflower florets in salted water to cover (or steam over boiling water) until tender, about 8 minutes, then drain well and let cool. You should have 2 cups florets.
To assemble the fritter batter, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs, flour, and water until smooth and creamy and the consistency of crepe or pancake batter, adding a little more water if it is too thick to flow easily off a spoon. (Or, process in a blender or food processor until smooth and transfer to a bowl.) Add the onion, parsley, mint, cinnamon, cumin, salt, and pepper and mix well, then stir in the cauliflower.
Pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan or a deep fryer and heat to 365° to 375°F.
While the oil is heating, make the dipping sauce. In a bowl, whisk together the yogurt, oil, and lemon zest and juice, then season with salt. You can serve as is, or you can whisk in either the garlic or the herb.
When the oil is ready, in batches and using a soupspoon, drop in the batter by the spoonful and fry, turning once, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the fritters to paper towels to drain. Serve hot, accompanied with the lemon wedges and the dipping sauce.
Turkish Zucchini FrittersKABAK MÜCVERI
Although fritters taste best when they are hot, in Turkey mücveri are also served at room temperature as part of the meze course. They could be a side dish for fish, as well, and keep them in mind for Hanukkah.SERVES 8 AS A MEZE, OR 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1 pound zucchini (6 to 8 small), grated on the large holes of a box grater
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup or more crumbled feta cheese, or part feta and part ricotta, or grated kasseri cheese
6 green onions, including green tops, minced
½ cup chopped fresh dill
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 or 4 eggs, lightly beaten
¾ to 1 cup all-purpose flour
Canola, safflower, or olive oil for deep-frying
Plain yogurt for dipping (optional)
Place the grated zucchini in a colander in the sink, sprinkling with salt as you go. Let drain for 30 minutes, then squeeze dry. Transfer to a bowl and add the cheese, green onions, dill, mint, parsley, and 3 eggs and mix well. Stir in the ¾ cup flour and season with salt and pepper. If the mixture seems too wet, add a bit more flour. If it looks too dry, add the remaining egg.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels. Pour the oil to a depth of about 1 inch into a large sauté pan and heat to 360°F. In batches, drop in 2 to 3 tablespoons batter for each fritter and fry, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the fritters to the towel-lined pan and place in the oven to keep warm until all of the fritters are cooked. Serve hot with the yogurt.
VARIATION:
Turkish Carrot Fritters (Havuç Mücveri): Combine 2 cups firmly packed grated carrots; ½ cup crumbled feta cheese; 4 to 6 green onions, including green tops, chopped; ¼ cup each chopped fresh dill and flat-leaf parsley; 1 teaspoon each ground toasted cumin and coriander; grated zest of 1 lemon; 3 eggs, lightly beaten; and about 1 cup all-purpose flour. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Fry as directed. You can substitute 2 cups grated butternut squash for the carrots.
Sephardic Leek FrittersKEFTES DE PRASA
Many Jewish cooks suggest serving leek fritters at Rosh Hashanah. The matzos and matzo meal in the recipe make them a good choice for Passover, as well. And, of course, because they are fried, they would be ideal for Hanukkah. You can’t miss serving these fritters at all three holidays! You can also bake this mixture as a gratin. The Leek and Potato Gratin on page 103 is similar to this mixture, with mashed potatoes replacing the matzos or bread. The walnuts are a wonderful addition, adding a pleasant bitterness and a nice crunch. These fritters can be fried ahead of time and held in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes. They can also be reheated in a light tomato sauce.MAKES ABOUT 16 FRITTERS; SERVES 6 TO 8
3 pounds leeks (about 12 small, 8 medium, or 4 very large)
4 matzos or slices coarse country bread
3 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup chopped toasted walnuts or pine nuts (optional)
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
Salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Matzo meal for coating
Canola, safflower, or olive oil for deep-frying, plus more if needed for binding
Lemon wedges for serving
Use the white and only a little of the green of the leeks. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then cut crosswise ½ inch thick. You should have about 6 cups. Immerse in a sink filled with cold water, then lift out and drain. Boil the leeks in lightly salted water in a saucepan until very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well, let cool, and squeeze dry. You should have about 2½ cups cooked leeks.
If using bread, remove the crusts, then soak the matzos or bread in water until soft and squeeze dry. In a large bowl, combine the leeks, soaked matzos or bread, eggs, walnuts, cheese, 1½ teaspoons salt, and the pepper and mix well. Form the mixture into patties about 2 inches in diameter and ½ to ¾ inch thick. If the mixture seems too moist, add matzo meal as needed to bind along with a pinch of salt.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels. Pour the oil to a depth of about 1 inch into a large sauté pan and heat to 350°F. While the oil is heating, spread some matzo meal on a plate and dip the patties, one at a time, into the meal, coating both sides and tapping off the excess.
When the oil is hot, in batches, add the patties and fry, turning once, until golden on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes total. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the fritters to the towel-lined pan and place in the oven to keep warm until all of the fritters are cooked. Sprinkle with salt and serve piping hot, accompanied with the lemon wedges.
Potato CroquettesCROCCHETTE DI PATATE
This recipe is from Giuseppe Maffioli’s La cucina padovana, but in a Roman cookbook by Donatella Pavoncello, a similar recipe calls for chicken fat instead of butter. These delicious potato croquettes are traditionally served as an appetizer or as an accompaniment to cooked fish and would be a perfect addition to the Hanukkah table. Similar croquettes are known as bimuelos de patata in the Balkans, keftikes de patata in Greece, fritas de patata kon kezo among Ladino speakers, and patates topları in Turkey. The word toplar means “cannonball,” which describes the shape, not the heft, of the fritters. Unlike their counterparts elsewhere, they are dipped in broken pasta, rather than bread crumbs, before frying. You can also use baked russet potatoes for the croquettes, scooping the cooked flesh from the skins into a ricer or food mill held over a bowl, or scooping it directly into a bowl and then mashing it.SERVES 4 TO 6
1½ pounds boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 whole eggs, plus 2 eggs, separated
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or rendered chicken fat
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg or ground mace
Canola, sunflower, or olive oil for deep-frying
Fine dried bread crumbs for coating
Place the potatoes in a saucepan with salted water to cover generously, bring to a boil, and cook until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes well and, while they are still warm, pass them through a ricer or food mill held over a bowl, or place them in a bowl and mash with a potato masher. Add the whole eggs, egg yolks, butter, and cheese and mix well. Season generously with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Shape the mixture into ovals about the length of your thumb (about 3 inches long) and about 1 inch thick.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels. Pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan or a deep fryer and heat to 375°F. Meanwhile, in a bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Spread the bread crumbs on a plate.
When the oil is ready, dip the croquettes, one at a time, first into the beaten egg whites and then into the crumbs, coating evenly and tapping off the excess. In batches, slip them into the hot oil and fry until golden, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the croquettes to the towel-lined pan to drain and place in the oven to keep warm until all of them are cooked. Serve hot.
Salt Cod FrittersFRITTELLE DI BACCALÀ
Versions of this recipe, also known as cotolette di baccalà, appear in Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa’s La cucina nella tradizione ebraica and in the second volume of Edda Servi Machlin’s The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews. The fritters are held together with eggs and softened bread, unlike Spanish buñuelos and Portuguese pastéis, which are bound with potatoes. If you are not sure of the quality of the salt cod, cook it as directed, pick through it for the whitest and most tender pieces, and discard the rest. You can also omit the coating of beaten egg and bread crumbs and spoon the mixture into the hot oil as if making pancakes.SERVES 8
1 pound salt cod fillet
2 cups water, or 1 cup each water and milk, or as needed
3 slices day-old coarse country bread, 1 inch thick, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry
4 olive oil–packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Pinch of cayenne pepper, or few grinds freshly ground black pepper
2 to 3 eggs, plus 1 egg for coating
Salt
All-purpose flour for binding, if needed
Fine dried bread crumbs for coating
Olive oil for frying
Lemon wedges or garlic mayonnaise (page 231) for serving
Place the cod in a bowl with cold water to cover and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water three times. Drain, transfer to a saucepan, add the water, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Turn down the heat to low and simmer gently until the cod is very tender, 10 to 20 minutes. The timing will depend on the thickness of the fillet. Drain the cod, let cool, then flake with a fork or your fingers, removing and discarding any tough pieces or errant bones. Transfer the cod to a food processor and pulse until very finely chopped.
In a bowl, combine the cod, bread, anchovies, parsley, cheese, cayenne, and 2 of the eggs and mix well. Fry a small patty of the mixture in a little oil and taste to check the seasoning and texture. Adjust the seasoning with salt and cayenne if needed. The mixture may also need another egg or a bit of flour to bind it.
Line 1 or 2 sheet pans with parchment paper. Spread the bread crumbs on a plate. Lightly beat the egg for coating in a shallow bowl. Shape the cod mixture into small balls or flattened cakes. Dip each fritter in the beaten egg and then coat with the bread crumbs, tapping off the excess. As the fritters are coated, place them on the sheet pan(s).
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line 1 or 2 sheet pans with paper towels. Pour the oil to a depth of ½ inch into a large, deep sauté pan and heat over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, in batches, add the fritters and fry, turning once, until golden on both sides, about 6 minutes total. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the fritters to a towel-lined pan to drain and place in the oven to keep warm until all of them are cooked. Serve hot, accompanied with the lemon wedges.
Chickpea CroquettesFALAFEL
Falafel originated in Egypt, but today these croquettes are also popular street food in Lebanon, Syria, and Israel. Tuck these crunchy spheres into warm pita bread along with chopped tomato and cucumber and add a good drizzle of tahini sauce. Most recipes call for soaking the chickpeas overnight but do not cook them. Others instruct to cook them briefly until they have softened a bit. makes about 16 croquettes, or 8 sandwiches
CROQUETTES
1 cup dried chickpeas
1 small yellow onion, minced
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 slice coarse country bread, crust removed and crumbled
1 egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground toasted cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for coating
1 teaspoon baking soda
Salt
Canola, sunflower, or olive oil for deep-frying
8 small rounds pita bread, warmed (see note, page 28) and halved crosswise
Chopped tomato and cucumber (½-inch dice) for serving
Tahini sauce for serving (recipe follows)
Pick over the chickpeas, then place in a bowl, add water to cover, and let soak in the refrigerator overnight. Drain and rinse well. You should have about 2 cups soaked chickpeas. Although it is not traditional, at this point, you can simmer the chickpeas in water to cover for about 15 minutes to soften them a bit, then drain well. This step makes the falafel texture a bit less granular.
Pass the chickpeas and onion through a meat grinder fitted with the coarse blade into a bowl. Add the garlic, bread, egg, parsley, black and cayenne peppers, cumin, turmeric, flour, and baking soda and mix well, adding a little water as needed to bind the mixture. Season with salt. Alternatively, in a food processor, pulse the chickpeas and onion until coarsely ground. Add the garlic, bread, egg, parsley, black and cayenne peppers, cumin, turmeric, flour, and baking soda and pulse until well mixed, adding a little water as needed to bind the mixture. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt.
Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Shape the chickpea mixture into balls 1½ inches in diameter, flatten each ball slightly between your palms, and set aside on the prepared pan.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and a second sheet pan with parchment paper. Pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan or a deep fryer and heat to 365°F. Spread the flour on a plate. One at a time, coat the croquettes with the flour, tapping off the excess, and set aside on the parchment-lined pan.
When the oil is hot, in batches, add the croquettes to the oil and fry until golden and crunchy on both sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the croquettes to the towel-lined pan to drain and place in the oven to keep warm until all of the croquettes are cooked.
To serve, push a finger gently into each pita half to open the pocket. Spoon about 2 tablespoons each tomato and cucumber into each pocket, add some tahini sauce, and then insert a croquette. Spoon in a little more sauce, if you like. Serve right away.
EGYPTIAN VARIATION:
Increase the onion to 2 onions and the garlic to 10 cloves and add ½ cup each chopped fresh cilantro and dill to the mixture.
Tahini Sauce or Dip
Sauces and dips made from tahini are popular everywhere from North Africa and Iran to Turkey and Greece. This versatile recipe pairs well with fritters, roasted vegetables, and other dishes.MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS SAUCE OR ¾ TO 1 CUP DIP
½ cup tahini, stirred well before use
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 to 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ cup water, or more as needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
½ teaspoon ground toasted cumin (optional)
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish, if making a dip
In a blender or food processor, combine the tahini, lemon juice, and garlic and process until smooth. To use as a dressing, add the water and process until you have a good salad dressing consistency, adding more water as needed. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt, black and cayenne peppers, and cumin. To use as a dip, make as directed but use less water for a thicker consistency. Transfer to a bowl, season as directed, and either sprinkle with the parsley or stir in the parsley.
Polenta and Anchovy FrittersREBECCHINE DI GERUSALEMME
Versions of these anchovy-filled polenta sandwiches appear in almost every book on the cuisine of Italian Jews. The name suggests that these fritters were popular in Jerusalem, though I doubt they were ever served there. Instead, the name Gerusa-lemme, like the name Rebecca, or in this case the diminutive Rebecchine, indicates a Jewish origin. Today in Trieste, which was once home to a sizable Jewish population, the term rebecchini is still used to refer to a snack served at midmorning.SERVES 6 TO 8
1 cup polenta
4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
¼ pound salt-packed anchovies (about 12 anchovies)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Canola, safflower, or olive oil for deep-frying
1 to 2 eggs
All-purpose flour for dusting
Combine the polenta, water, and teaspoon salt in a heavy saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, whisking occasionally. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until very thick and no longer grainy on the tongue, about 30 minutes. If the polenta thickens too quickly but still feels undercooked and grainy, stir in some hot water and continue to cook until it is cooked through and soft. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt.
Butter or oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking pan, pour the hot polenta into the pan, let cool until just set, and then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled and fully set.
Fillet and rinse the anchovies and then chop coarsely. Put them in a sauté pan with the olive oil, place over low heat, and cook, stirring often with a fork, until they soften and melt, about 5 minutes. It is imperative that they do not burn. Remove from the heat.
Using a 2½- to 3-inch cookie or biscuit cutter or an overturned glass, cut the chilled polenta into rounds. Spread half of the rounds with the anchovy purée, then top them with the remaining rounds.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels. Pour the canola oil to a depth of 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan or a deep fryer and heat to 375°F. Meanwhile, break 1 egg into a shallow bowl and beat until blended (add the second egg later if needed). Spread the flour on a plate.
One at a time, dip the polenta sandwiches into the beaten egg and then into the flour, tapping off the excess flour (some cooks reverse the order, dipping them first in flour and then in egg) and slip them into the hot oil, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry, turning once, until golden, about 4 minutes total. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the sandwiches to the towel-lined pan to drain and keep warm in the oven until all of the sandwiches are cooked. Serve warm.
VARIATION:
If you don’t like anchovies, omit them, cut the chilled polenta into fingers, dredge the fingers lightly in flour, and deep-fry them as directed. Or, place a slice of Fontina or mozzarella cheese between each pair of polenta rounds, dip the sandwiches in egg and then flour, and deep-fry as directed.