WITH THE EXCEPTION OF IRAN, where rice rules the table, Mediterranean Jewish kitchens do not enjoy a vast repertoire of grain recipes. Grains were—and are—commonly eaten at most meals all over the Mediterranean, but because they were a table staple, recipes for them were not written down. Instead, they were habit. Bulgur and freekeh, for example, appear at the table from time to time, primarily in the Middle East, where they might be served hot as a pilaf or used in salads or in the preparation of kibbeh, but written recipes for them are rare.
Farro, an early form of emmer wheat cultivated in the Italian regions of Abruzzo, Umbria, and Tuscany, was long ago pushed aside for the more popular and easier to grow semolina wheat used for pasta and bread, so that no recipes for farro exist in the classic Italian Jewish kitchen. Its cultivation has experienced a revival in recent decades, however, so that contemporary cooks now prepare it, adding it to soups, cooking it like pilaf or risotto, or using it as a base for salad. Corn arrived in Italy shortly after the voyages of Columbus, and polenta served as a side dish was soon on Italian Jewish menus.
In Greece and Turkey, rice was prepared simply; a few pine nuts, some tomato or spinach, or grated carrot might be added. The need for grain in the diet was typically satisfied by the presence of bread and by the large number of savory pastries served at meals (see chapter 2). Many vegetable dishes were also enriched by the addition of bread. In North Africa, couscous (made from semolina wheat), bread, and savory pastries were the primary grain-based items at the table.
Rice is a star in the Persian Jewish kitchen, where it is traditionally served as a side and, when mixed with meat and poultry, as a main course. For all of the recipes that follow, use basmati rice when long-grain rice is called for, as it is particularly fragrant and holds its shape and texture well. If time allows, after you have rinsed the rice, soak it in lightly salted water for a few hours to achieve more tender kernels once the rice is cooked.
Short-grain rice was mostly used for puddings in the Middle East, and in Italy for risotto. Rice has long been central to the Italian Jewish table. Traditionally, it was made into a simple but elegant riso del sabato, rice colored with a pinch of expensive saffron, served on Friday night. Risotto was also made with artichokes, asparagus, eggplant, squash, or peas and, like pasta, was an ideal dish to serve for dairy meals. Any leftover cooked risotto could be formed into a bomba (mold) or into crocchette (croquettes) stuffed with cheese and baked or fried. Leftover rice pilaf was dressed with oil and lemon juice or vinegar and turned into rice salad, served plain, or adorned with tuna and roasted peppers.
Pasta, along with vegetables, was—and still is—integral to the Italian Jewish diet. In years past, the Italian Jewish menu was largely vegetarian, with meat and fish playing the role of flavor accents to grain and vegetable dishes. Dried commercial pasta was used, but learning to make pasta all’uovo (fresh egg noodles) was part of every young cook’s training. Sheets of pasta were cut into narrow strips for tagliarini and fettuccine, wide strips for lasagna, or rectangles for rotoli (pasta rolls), or they were shaped into ravioli filled with meat, brains, pumpkin, or greens and cheese. Pasta dishes that were prepared before sundown on Friday evening evolved into room-temperature main courses for Saturday lunch, the unintentional forerunners of the now ubiquitous pasta salad sold at nearly every deli counter.
Unlike in Italy, pasta is served only occasionally by the Sephardic Jews in Turkey and Greece and rarely in other parts of the Mediterranean, though it sometimes turns up in soup. Mostly it takes the form of Middle Eastern–style macaroni and cheese or of fried noodles borrowed from the Spanish fideos tradition. Some families continue to use the early Arabic name for pasta, itriya, but most favor the Ladino name fidellos, which is based on the term fideos, meaning “overflowing” or “abundant.”
Rice with Pine NutsARROZ CON PIÑONES
A classic of the Sephardic table, this simple pilaf is the traditional accompaniment to Fish with Abraham’s Fruit (page 241).SERVES 6 TO 8
¼ cup olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cups long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
Scant 1 cup pine nuts
4 cups water
1½ teaspoons salt
Pinch of saffron threads (optional)
Warm the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Turn down the heat to low, add the rice and pine nuts, and stir to coat them well with the oil for 5 minutes. Add the water, salt, and saffron, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and the grains are separate, 18 to 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat. Let rest, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, then fluff and serve.
Spinach and Rice PilafARROZ KON ESPINAKA
This classic pilaf from the Sephardic kitchen is still popular in Greece today, where it is known as spanakorizo. It can be served hot or at room temperature. Sometimes it is garnished with chopped hard-boiled eggs, a little crumbled feta cheese, or a dollop of yogurt. For a complete meal, top each serving with a poached egg. If the aesthetics of the dish are important to you, cook the rice and spinach separately and then fold them together just before serving, as the color of the spinach fades when it is cooked for such a long time with the rice. The dish will taste different, of course, but it will look brighter.SERVES 6
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 cup long-grain white rice
8 cups coarsely chopped spinach (about 2 pounds, stemmed)
½ cup chopped fresh dill
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (optional)
1½ cups water
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Plain yogurt or plain yogurt seasoned with minced garlic for serving (optional)
Warm 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and rice and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add the spinach, dill, tomatoes, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil, stirring often and pushing the spinach down into the pan as it wilts. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, 15 to 18 minutes.
Remove from the heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and the lemon juice and drizzle over the rice. Serve hot or at room temperature. At a dairy meal, pass the yogurt for spooning over the rice.
Syrian Rice with VermicelliROZ ME SHAREYEEH
Rice mixed with noodles is a popular side dish in most Arab countries. If you will be serving this dish at a meat meal, use oil and water or meat or poultry broth. For a dairy meal, use butter and water or vegetable broth.SERVES 4 TO 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
½ cup fideos or vermicelli, in 1-inch pieces
1½ cups long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
3 cups water or broth
1 teaspoon salt
Warm the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the noodles and sauté, stirring often, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir until all of the grains are coated with the fat. Add the water and salt and bring to a boil. When some of the water has been absorbed and little holes appear on the surface of the rice, turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat, fluff with a fork, and serve hot.
Arabic Rice and Lentils with Caramelized OnionsMUJADDARA
This is my idea of comfort food. The key ingredients are the lentils and the caramelized onions. The lentils must be cooked perfectly: not too soft, not too crunchy. French or Italian green lentils, which hold their shape when cooked, are best. Black (beluga) lentils are also a good choice. Brown and red lentils will soften too quickly. I have found that red onions caramelize more easily, so I am specifying them here, but you can use yellow or white if you like. Most versions of this recipe call for stirring in the onions, but I prefer to stir in half of them and arrange the remainder on top. At a dairy meal, you can serve this pilaf with a dollop of plain yogurt. A similar dish replaces the rice with bulgur.SERVES 6
1 cup green or black lentils, picked over and rinsed
5 tablespoons olive oil
4 large red onions, sliced
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup basmati rice, rinsed and drained, then soaked in water to cover for 1 hour
1¾ cups water
In a saucepan, combine the lentils and salted water to cover by about 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to low and cook until tender but not too soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Check the lentils regularly, as you do not want to overcook them.
Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain and crisp. Season with the cinnamon and with salt and pepper.
Drain the rice. In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, return the liquid to a simmer, then turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, fluff with a fork, and let rest for a few minutes.
Drain the lentils, add to the rice in the pot, and toss to mix evenly. Stir in half of the onions, then season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl or serving platter. Top with the remaining onions. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Egyptian Rice, Lentils, and NoodlesKOSHARI
In Egypt, the combination of lentils and rice, occasionally with the addition of noodles, is served with a spicy tomato sauce or a green chile and garlic condiment.SERVES 6
1 cup green or black lentils, picked over and rinsed
1 cup basmati rice, rinsed and drained, then soaked in water to cover for 1 hour
1¾ cups water
1 cup broken fideos or vermicelli, in 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large yellow onions, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
SALSA
8 serrano chiles, minced
3 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste with ½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground cinnamon
¼ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup olive oil
In a saucepan, combine the lentils and salted water to cover by about 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to low and cook until tender but not too soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Check the lentils regularly, as you do not want to overcook them.
At the same time, cook the rice. In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, return the liquid to a simmer, then turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, fluff with a fork, and let rest for a few minutes.
While the lentils and rice are cooking, prepare the onions, fideos, and salsa. Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, add the fideos, and cook until al dente. Drain well and set aside. Warm the oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain and crisp, then season with salt and pepper. To make the salsa, combine all of the ingredients, mixing well.
When the lentils are ready, drain them, add them and the noodles to the fluffed rice in the pot, and toss to mix evenly. Stir in half of the onions and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl or serving platter and top with the remaining onions. Serve warm and pass the salsa at the table.
Chicken and Rice Pilaf Wrapped in FiloYUFKALI PILAV
Both Turkish and Iranian Jews like this spectacular dish, which is often called “veiled pilaf.” Some versions call for lining a shallow baking dish with layered filo sheets, allowing them to overhang the sides; adding the pilaf; folding the overhang over the top, and then baking, cutting, and serving similar to how baklava is prepared. In Iran, recipes include ½ cup broken vermicelli, cooked, in the filling. For a more eye-catching presentation at the table, make this pilaf in a large springform pan.SERVES 6 TO 8
CHICKEN AND BROTH
2 pounds chicken parts, such as breasts and thighs
1 carrot, peeled and halved
1 yellow onion, halved
6 black peppercorns
Salt
¾ cup olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
½ cup slivered blanched almonds, toasted until golden brown in the oven or in a little oil on the stove top
8 to 10 filo sheets
To prepare the chicken and broth, in a large saucepan, combine the chicken, carrot, onion, peppercorns, a generous sprinkle of salt, and water to cover by 2 inches and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that forms on the surface. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and, using a wire skimmer, transfer the chicken to a large plate.
When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones and skin, then cut the meat into bite-size pieces and set aside. Prepare an ice-water bath. Line a fine-mesh sieve with dampened cheesecloth, place over a large bowl, and strain the broth through the sieve. Place the bowl in the ice-water bath and let the broth cool completely; then, using a spoon, lift off and discard the fat from the surface. Measure 3 cups of the broth, bring to a simmer in a clean saucepan, remove from the heat, and cover to keep hot. Reserve the remaining broth for another use.
Warm ¼ cup of the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cinnamon and cardamom, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for a few more minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until the kernels are opaque. Add the reserved chicken and hot broth and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, fold in the almonds, and let cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush a 2-quart baking dish (or a large springform pan) with some of the remaining ½ cup oil. Lay the stack of filo sheets on your work surface and cover with a damp kitchen towel to prevent drying, removing 1 sheet at a time as needed. Layer 8 of the filo sheets in the prepared dish, brushing each sheet with oil once you put it in the dish and allowing the filo to overhang the sides of the dish. Be sure to brush the overhang with oil, and check that the overhang is sufficient to cover the top of the dish once the pilaf is added. Reserve the final 2 filo sheets in case they are needed to ensure coverage. Spoon the cooled cooked pilaf into the filo-lined dish and fold up the overhang to cover the top. Brush the top with oil. You can arrange the remaining 2 filo sheets on top, brushing each with oil and tucking them in around the edges.
Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 8 to 10 minutes. Invert a serving platter over the baking dish, then invert the platter and dish together and lift off the dish. (If using a springform pan, let rest and then release and lift off the sides and slide the wrapped pilaf onto a platter.) Cut into slices with a sharp serrated knife and serve hot or very warm.
Persian RiceCHELO
Once you’ve made rice this way, you will want it this way every time. The crust that forms on the bottom, called the tahdig, is prized by diners. Break it up and put it atop the rice so that everyone can have some. Some cooks add an egg yolk or a spoonful of yogurt to the rice used for the tahdig. Others mix the saffron infusion with the egg yolk or yogurt and then mix that with the rice. Still other cooks reserve a few spoonfuls of the loose cooked rice, mix them with the saffron infusion, and then sprinkle the saffron-tinted rice over the cooked rice. All of the options are good, so you may want to experiment to see which one you like best.SERVES 8
2½ cups (1 pound) basmati rice
4 tablespoons salt
4 quarts water
½ cup unsalted butter, or margarine for a meat meal, melted
3 tablespoons hot water
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten, or 1 tablespoon plain yogurt (optional)
½ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed and steeped in ¼ cup hot water (optional)
Rinse and drain the rice, then transfer to a bowl. Measure out enough cold water to cover the rice, stir in 1 tablespoon of the salt, and then pour the salted water over the rice. Let soak for 1 to 2 hours or up to overnight.
In a large pot, combine the water and the remaining 3 tablespoons salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Drain the rice, add to the pot, return to a boil, and boil for about 8 minutes, stirring once or twice to prevent the grains from sticking together. Bite a grain. It should be tender on the outside but opaque and uncooked in the center. If not, cook for a minute or two longer. Drain immediately into a colander or sieve and rinse with warm water.
In a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, stir together ¼ cup of the melted butter and 2 tablespoons of the hot water and place the pan over low heat. Scoop out ½ cup of the rice, mix it with the egg yolk if using, and then add to the pan, mixing it with the butter. Spread it evenly over the bottom of the pan. Add the rest of the rice, piling it on in large spoonfuls and mounding it into a conical shape. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke a few holes through the top of the rice. Mix the remaining ¼ cup melted butter with the remaining 1 tablespoon hot water and drizzle over the top. Cover the pan with a dish towel, tie it securely around the pan, and top with the pan lid. Cook the rice over medium heat for 10 minutes to brown and set the crust. Then turn down the heat to very low and steam the rice for 35 minutes longer.
Remove the pan from the heat. Fill the sink with cold water to a depth of about 2 inches, then place the pan in the sink for about 5 minutes to loosen the crust. Remove from the sink, uncover, and spoon the loose cooked rice onto a platter or individual plates, fluffing as you go. Now, turn out the crust, using a spatula to loosen it if it sticks. Place pieces of the crust on top of and around the rice, and then drizzle the rice with the saffron infusion. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Baked Persian Rice: If you are nervous about making the classic chelo for fear that the tahdig will remain stuck in the pan, try this oven version. Soak 2 cups basmati rice in salted water to cover for 1 hour and drain. In a large saucepan, bring 4 quarts water and 2 tablespoons salt to a boil, add the drained rice, and boil until a kernel of rice tests done when you bite it, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the rice immediately and rinse with warm water. Scoop out 1 cup of the rice and mix it with 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten, and 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter or olive oil mixed with 1 tablespoon hot water. Oil a shallow 9-by-13-inch baking pan (like a lasagna pan). Spread the buttered rice on the bottom of the prepared pan and press it down with your fingers. Spoon the remaining rice evenly over the top. Season 4 tablespoons melted unsalted butter or olive oil with salt and pepper and mix with ½ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed and steeped in ¼ cup hot water (optional), then drizzle the mixture evenly over the rice. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated 350°F oven until the rice is cooked, 25 to 35 minutes. To serve, transfer all of the loose rice to an ovenproof platter and keep warm in a low oven. Raise the oven temperature to 400° or 450°F. Return the rice crust to the oven and bake, uncovered, until the crust is pale golden brown, about 10 minutes. You want the crust to be chewy but not hard. Let the pan sit on a cool surface for about 5 minutes, until the crust is easy to lift out with a spatula. Serve pieces of the browned crust on top of the loose rice.
Persian Rice with Favas and Dill (Baghali Polo): Prepare the rice as directed. Fold 1 pound fresh fava beans, shelled, blanched, and peeled, and 2 cups chopped fresh dill into the loose cooked rice.
Persian Rice with Lentils (Adas Polo): Cook ⅔ cup green lentils and drain well. Prepare the rice as directed, then fold the warm lentils; ¼ cup raisins, plumped in hot water and drained; 1 teaspoon ground allspice; and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper into the loose cooked rice. Drizzle the finished rice with the saffron infusion if you like.
Persian Rice with Barberries (Zereshk Polo): Rinse ½ cup barberries, then soak in warm water for 30 minutes and drain, or fry in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter over medium heat until puffed. Prepare the rice as directed and fold the barberries into the loose cooked rice.
Persian Rice with Sour Cherries (Albalu Polo): Soak ½ cup dried cherries in hot water until plumped, then drain. Prepare the rice as directed and fold the cherries and, if you like, ½ cup almonds, toasted, into the loose cooked rice.
Persian Rice with Carrots and Orange PeelSHIRIN POLO
This is a glorious and festive dish. Sometimes cooked chicken is added to this pilaf. If you decide to do that, you may want to alternate layers of rice and chicken in the pot.SERVES 6 TO 8
Zest of 2 oranges, slivered
2 cups basmati rice, soaked in salted cold water to cover for 1 hour
4 quarts plus 2 cups water
2 tablespoons salt
½ cup unsalted butter or olive oil
1 cup sugar
2 cups peeled and coarsely grated carrot
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
½ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed and steeped in ¼ cup hot water
⅓ cup pistachios, chopped
Bring a small saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat, add the orange zest, turn down the heat to medium, and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain into a sieve and rinse with cold water. Repeat this process three times to remove the bitterness from the zest. Set the zest aside.
Drain the rice. In a large saucepan, combine 4 quarts of the water and the salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, return to a boil, and boil for about 8 minutes, stirring once or twice to prevent the grains from sticking together. Bite a kernel. It should be tender on the outside but opaque and uncooked in the center. If not, cook for a minute or two longer. Drain immediately into a colander or sieve and rinse with warm water.
To make the traditional crust on the bottom (tahdig), warm the butter in a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over low heat. Pour out half of the melted butter into a small bowl and reserve. Scoop out 2 cups of the cooked rice, mix it with the butter remaining in the pan, and then spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan. Add the rest of the rice, piling it on in large spoonfuls and mounding it into a conical shape. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke a few holes in the top of the rice. Drizzle the rice with the reserved butter. Cover the pan with a dish towel, tie it securely around the pan, and top with the pan lid. Cook the rice over medium heat for 10 minutes to brown and set the crust. Then turn down the heat to very low and steam the rice for 35 minutes longer.
While the rice is steaming, in a saucepan, combine the remaining 2 cups water and the sugar and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the carrot and reserved orange zest, turn down the heat to medium, and cook until the carrot is just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a bowl, add the cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, and most of the almonds, and mix well.
When the rice is done, remove the pan from the heat. Fill the sink with cold water to a depth of about 2 inches, then place the pan in the sink for about 5 minutes to loosen the crust. Remove from the sink, uncover, and spoon the loose cooked rice onto a platter, fluffing as you go. Add the carrot and almond mixture to the loose rice and toss to mix well. Drizzle with the saffron infusion. Now, turn out the crust, using a spatula to loosen it if it sticks. Arrange pieces of the crust, the pistachios, and the reserved almonds over and around the rice. Serve immediately.
Sabbath RiceRISO DEL SABATO
The classic Italian Jewish Friday night rice dish is saffron-flavored rice, which recalls the classic risotto alla milanese. Some cooks make it in the manner of a risotto, adding broth in increments, as is done here. Others prepare it as a pilaf, adding the liquid all at once and covering the pan. In La cucina nella tradizione ebraica, the rice is sautéed in oil, the hot broth is added, and then the pan is covered and finished in the oven. Once out of the oven, the rice rests, covered, for 10 minutes and then is served with mushrooms, peas, or other seasonal vegetables. For Hanukkah, raisins are added and the dish becomes riso con l’uvette.SERVES 4 TO 6
5 to 6 cups chicken or beef broth, or part water and part broth
2 tablespoons olive oil or rendered chicken fat
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1½ cups Arborio rice
¼ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed and steeped in 2 tablespoons hot broth
¾ cup grapes, or sultana raisins, plumped in white wine and drained (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pour the broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer; adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer.
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and sauté for a few minutes until softened. Add the rice and stir until the kernels are opaque, about 3 minutes. Add a ladleful (about 1 cup) of the simmering broth and stir until the liquid is absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn down the heat to low and continue adding the broth, a ladleful at a time, stirring until each addition is absorbed before the next is added, until the rice kernels are al dente in the center and creamy on the outside, 20 to 25 minutes in all. Add the saffron infusion about halfway through the cooking, and add the grapes during the last addition of broth. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Butternut Squash RisottoRISOTTO ALLA ZUCCA GIALLA
Here is Aunt Zita’s recipe from Milka Passigli’s Le ricette di casa mia for a risotto made with zucca barucca, the “blessed” and bumpy pumpkin squash of the Veneto. Our butternut squash is the closest to the Italian zucca, so it’s best to use it instead of pumpkin, which can be watery. I sometimes add 1 cup peeled, cooked, and coarsely chopped chestnuts along with the last addition of broth.SERVES 6
6 cups vegetable broth
3 tablespoons olive oil or part oil and part unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, plus more for garnish
2½ to 3 cups peeled butternut squash, cut into ½-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Arborio rice
½ cup white wine (optional)
6 to 8 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Pour the broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer; adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer.
Warm the oil in a deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sage and sauté for a few minutes until softened. Add the squash, sprinkle with salt, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until the kernels are opaque, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, for a few minutes just until it evaporates. Add a ladleful of the simmering broth (about 1 cup) and stir until the broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn down the heat to low and continue adding the broth, a ladleful at a time, stirring until each addition is absorbed before the next is added, until the rice grains are al dente in the center and creamy on the outside, 20 to 25 minutes in all. Stir in 4 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese, then season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the remaining cheese.
VARIATION:
For a slightly lighter-tasting dish, make a classic gremolata of 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest, 6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, and 1 tablespoon minced garlic and stir it into the risotto during the last few minutes of cooking.
Springtime RisottoRISOTTO MARZOLINO
March (marzo) is the month when asparagus and artichokes appear at the market. Inspired by a recipe in Milka Passigli’s Le ricette di casa mia, this saffron-tinged risotto uses both vegetables. The cream makes the dish very festive and rich and can be omitted if you prefer a lighter risotto. This dish might profit from the addition of a little grated lemon zest with the saffron infusion and a garnish of chopped flat-leaf parsley, basil, or mint.SERVES 6
1 pound asparagus, tough stems removed
Juice of 1 lemon
3 large artichokes
6 cups vegetable broth
½ teaspoon saffron threads, lightly crushed
2 to 3 tablespoons oil or unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup heavy cream (optional)
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, add the asparagus, and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain, immerse in cold water to refresh, then drain again, pat dry, and cut on the diagonal into 1½-inch pieces. Set aside.
Have ready a bowl of water to which you have added the lemon juice. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim off the stem flush with the base, then remove all of the leaves until you reach the heart. Pare away the dark green areas from the base. Cut the artichoke heart in half and scoop out and discard the choke from each half with a pointed spoon or a paring knife. Cut each half lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick slices and slip the slices into the lemon water. Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, drain the artichoke slices, add to the boiling water, and parboil for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender-firm. Drain and set aside.
Pour the broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer; adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer. Ladle out 1 cup of the hot broth, place in a bowl, and add the saffron; set aside.
Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the kernels are opaque, about 3 minutes. Add a ladleful of the simmering broth (about 1 cup) and stir until the broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn down the heat to low and continue adding the broth, a ladleful at a time, stirring until each addition is absorbed before the next is added, until the rice grains are al dente in the center and creamy on the outside, 20 to 25 minutes. For the final cup, add the saffron infusion along with the asparagus and artichokes. Stir in the cream and cheese and heat through. Serve immediately.
Baked Rice CasseroleBOMBA DI RISO
Risotto saltato is a homey Jewish Italian dish of fried leftover risotto. Instead of frying the cooked rice in the classic pancake manner, here it is baked. What you want is a crispy golden exterior and melting cheese inside. In The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews, Edda Servi Machlin omits the ricotta and adds raisins and grated lemon zest to the rice mixture. I have included directions for cooking the rice in case you don’t have leftovers on hand.SERVES 6
2½ cups Arborio rice
4 eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Few gratings nutmeg
1½ cups ricotta cheese
12 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-inch ring mold or 1½-to 2-quart soufflé dish.
Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, add the rice, and cook until al dente, 15 to 18 minutes. Drain well and place in a bowl. Add the eggs and Parmesan cheese and mix well. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Pack half of the rice mixture into the prepared mold. Arrange the ricotta and mozzarella cheeses evenly over the rice mixture and then top with the remaining rice mixture. Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, let rest for 10 minutes, and then unmold onto a platter (or scoop out from the baking dish). Serve hot.
VARIATION:
Fried Rice Balls (Crocchette di Riso): This same mixture of rice, eggs, and Parmesan cheese can be formed into small rice balls with a tiny cube of mozzarella tucked into the center of each one. Coat the balls in fine dried bread crumbs and deep-fry them until golden and the cheese is melted.
Farro with Mushrooms and HazelnutsFARRO CON FUNGHI E NOCCIOLE
Farro is an early variety of wheat, sometimes erroneously labeled spelt, to which it is related. It is primarily cultivated around Lucca in the Garfagnana region of Tuscany, in Umbria, and in the Abruzzo. Lighter in mouthfeel than wheat berries, it has a nutty taste and texture that resembles barley more than wheat. It is now being grown in the United States as well, and I recommend semipearled farro from Bob’s Red Mill and from Bluebird Farms in Washington. It can be cooked as you would cook risotto, adding broth by the ladleful; in lots of boiling water; or as a pilaf, which I have done here.SERVES 6
1 ounce (about 1 cup) dried porcini
5 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups semipearled farro
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for finishing (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1½ pounds assorted fresh mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and coarsely chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, or part parsley and part chopped fresh sage
¾ to 1½ cups vegetable or chicken broth
Rinse the porcini, then soak in hot water to cover until rehydrated, at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring the water to a boil, add a large pinch or two of salt, and then add the farro. Adjust the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the farro until tender but still chewy at the center. Start checking for doneness after 20 minutes. If it is done but still wet, drain in a sieve. It is fine if a little water remains unabsorbed, as you will need some when you combine the farro with the mushrooms. Set the farro aside.
Drain the porcini, reserving the soaking water, then pass the soaking water through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Chop the porcini and set aside with the soaking water.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the fresh mushrooms and sauté until they release some liquid. Stir in the chopped porcini and their soaking water and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.
Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the cooked mushrooms and all of their pan juices, the hazelnuts, and the parsley and mix well. Fold in the cooked farro, turn down the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally and adding ½ to ¾ cup of the broth as needed for a good consistency, until the farro is heated through, 5 to 10 minutes longer Season with salt and pepper. Stir in more butter if you want a richer flavor. If you want a soupier risotto-like consistency, add more broth. Serve hot.
Bulgur Pilaf
Most recipes for bulgur pilaf call for cooking the grain as if it were rice, steaming it in broth or water to cover. More often than not, this results in a mixture that is heavy and soggy, with the grains sticking together. To keep pilaf light and dry, cook it on the stove top to start and then finish it in the oven.SERVES 6 TO 8
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
1 yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1½ cups medium-grind bulgur
3 cups chicken broth or water, heated
Chopped green onions, fresh mint, or fresh cilantro; plumped currants; or toasted almonds or pine nuts for garnish (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a sheet pan or shallow baking pan.
Melt the butter in a heavy sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the bulgur and stir until the grains are coated with the butter. Add half of the broth, turn down the heat to low, and stir until the broth is absorbed. Add the rest of the broth, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the broth is absorbed and the bulgur is tender, about 15 minutes.
If the pilaf is soggy, turn it out onto the sheet pan, place in the oven, and bake uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and stir. The pilaf should be ready, but if the grains still seem sticky, return the pan to the oven until the grains are dry and separate, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer to a serving dish. Fold in a garnish, if you like, season with salt and pepper, and serve hot.
Turkish Bulgur Pilaf with ChickpeasNOHUTLU BULGUR PILAVI
There’s more to bulgur than the ubiquitous tabbouleh. In Turkey, bulgur is prepared as a pilaf and is served plain, with the addition of toasted pine nuts and plumped currants, or mixed with legumes. Here, chickpeas are added (green lentils can be substituted), resulting in a fine accompaniment to cooked fish, meat, or poultry. Or, you can serve it with a pair of vegetable dishes for a satisfying meal, such as tart spinach and smoky grilled eggplant or sweet roasted tomatoes. To brighten this mild, hearty dish, pass a bowl of esme (page 361), the Turkish equivalent of tomato salsa, with the yogurt.SERVES 6
5 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch cubes
1½ cups drained cooked chickpeas
2 teaspoons salt
3 cups water or vegetable broth
2 cups medium- or coarse-grind bulgur, rinsed
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, dill, or mint for garnish
Plain yogurt for serving
Warm the butter in a saucepan or deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the tomato and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes longer. Add the chickpeas, salt, and water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the bulgur, stir well, turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the bulgur is tender, about 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat. If liquid is visible even though the bulgur is tender, drain it off, then season the pilaf with the black pepper and cayenne, re-cover the pan, and let the pilaf rest until dry, about 15 minutes (or place the uncovered pan in a low oven for 15 minutes). Garnish with the parsley and pass the yogurt at the table.
Couscous
Couscous is not a grain but a tiny pasta made from semolina flour and water. The dough is rolled into pellets that are pushed through a screen to make them uniform. Traditionally, the pellets are steamed over a stew in a couscoussière, a two-part steamer with a perforated upper pan. Most of us don’t have one, of course, but we can easily improvise with a conventional two-part steamer, a colander over a large pot, or a pasta pot with a basket insert. If the holes are too large, you can line the top pan with cheesecloth.
Two sets of instructions follow: the traditional North African steaming method and the quick-and-easy method. The latter will be scorned by purists, but it works, is fast, and produces a respectable result.SERVES 6 TO 8
3 cups couscous (18 to 20 ounces)
Salt
Olive oil, as needed
For the traditional steaming method, spread the couscous in a deep baking pan or dish. Lightly salt 5 to 6 cups hot water and set alongside the pan. Using your fingers, rub the couscous with 2 tablespoons oil, coating the grains evenly. Sprinkle 3 cups of the hot water evenly over the couscous and then let rest until the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Rake the couscous with your fingers or a pair of forks to break up the lumps.
Transfer the couscous to a couscoussière or your steamer setup (see headnote) and steam over boiling water until swollen and doubled in size, 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the couscous out into the same baking pan or dish and again rake it to break up the lumps. Sprinkle it with the remaining 2 to 3 cups hot water (the amount depends on how much the pellets swelled on the first steaming), let it absorb the water, and then rake it with your fingers again to break up the lumps. Return the couscous to the couscoussière or steamer setup and steam over boiling water until fully puffed, about 20 minutes longer. Transfer to a platter to serve. This makes a lot of couscous but it can be reheated over boiling water or for a minute or two in a microwave oven if you have leftovers.
For the quick-and-easy method, spread the couscous in a 2-inch deep baking pan or dish. Bring 4½ cups water to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Pour the boiling water evenly over the couscous, stir gently to moisten every piece, cover the pan with foil, and let rest until the water is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Uncover and rake with a fork to break up lumps. The couscous is now ready to serve. (The yield is smaller than with the traditional method where the repeated steaming makes the couscous swell more.) To hold or for additional swelling, you can steam it over boiling water for 15 to 20 minutes, sprinkling it lightly with hot water. If you have been overly exuberant with the water and the couscous seems too wet, let the couscous sit in a warm place and it will gradually absorb all of the water. As with the traditional method, the couscous can be reheated in a microwave oven.
Basic Egg PastaPASTA ALL’UOVO
Fresh egg pasta is an essential part of the Italian Jewish table. It is easy to make at home with a hand-cranked pasta machine or with the pasta roller attachment for the KitchenAid mixer. Unbleached all-purpose flour or Italian 00 flour can be used for this recipe. Measure the flour by spooning it into a measuring cup and leveling it with a knife. The ingredient amounts are based on using large eggs. If you instead use extra-large eggs, you may not need the water. For the richest pasta, use more egg yolks than whole eggs. Three egg yolks are the equivalent of a single large egg in moisture content.
This recipe makes a stiff, dry-feeling dough, so take the time to knead it well and you will be rewarded with silky, light, tender pasta. It is essential to let the dough rest before rolling it out, giving the gluten in the flour time to relax.
You can buy fresh pasta, of course, but it is rarely as delicate, tender, or thinly rolled as the pasta you make at home. Both Rustichella d’Abruzzo and Fini make high-quality dried egg fettuccine and pappardelle that cook up in minutes and are respectable substitutes for homemade fresh pasta.
MAKES A SCANT 1½ POUNDS (6 MAIN-COURSE OR 8 FIRST-COURSE SERVINGS)
3 to 3¼ cups unbleached all-purpose or 00 flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 eggs, or 3 eggs and 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
3 to 4 tablespoons water, if needed
MAKES 1 POUND (4 MAIN-COURSE OR 6 FIRST-COURSE SERVINGS)
2¼ to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose or 00 flour
¾ teaspoon salt
3 eggs, or 2 eggs and 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 to 3 tablespoons water, if needed
MAKES 8 OUNCES (2 MAIN-COURSE OR 4 FIRST-COURSE SERVINGS)
1¼ to 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose or 00 flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, or 1 egg and 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1 to 2 tablespoons water, if needed
Semolina flour, fine cornmeal, or Wondra flour for tossing or dusting
To make the dough by hand, in a large bowl or on a work surface, stir together the smaller amount of flour and the salt. Make a well in the center and add the eggs to the well. Using a fork, gradually pull the flour into the well until all of it is incorporated and a supple dough forms. If the dough seems too dry, add a bit of water. If it is too wet, add a bit more flour. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, 10 to 15 minutes.
To make the dough in a food processor, combine the smaller amount of flour and the salt in the processor and pulse once or twice to mix. Add the eggs and pulse until the mixture is evenly moistened, adding a bit of water if needed. (Resist the temptation to add too much water or the dough will be too soft and sticky to roll out after it rests.) Gather the dough into a rough ball, transfer to a lightly floured surface, and knead until smooth, 10 to 15 minutes.
Flatten the dough into a thick disk, place in a plastic bag, and let rest for 30 to 60 minutes.
When ready to roll out the pasta, set up the pasta machine or attach the pasta roller to the stand mixer. Divide the dough disk into 2 equal portions for an 8-ounce batch, 4 equal portions for a 1-pound batch, or 6 equal portions for a 1½-pound batch. With a rolling pin, flatten each portion into a piece about the width of the pasta rollers and thin enough to fit through the rollers at their widest setting.
Set the rollers to the widest setting and roll the dough through the rollers. Fold the dough into thirds (like a letter) and pass it through the roller. Repeat this three more times, as which point the dough should be smooth. If the dough begins to stick, lightly dust it with flour. Now, adjust the rollers to the next narrowest setting and pass the dough through the rollers. Continue to pass the dough through progressively narrower settings until you reach the second-to-last setting for lasagna and ravioli. For fettuccine, tagliarini, and pappardelle, proceed to roll the dough through the narrowest setting. If the dough starts to tear, let it rest for 15 minutes so the gluten relaxes and then pass it through the rollers again.
For fettuccine, tagliarini, and pappardelle: Cut the pasta sheets into 9- or 10-inch lengths and let dry on a rack or table for 15 to 20 minutes. If cutting fettuccine or tagliarini by hand, roll up each length into a cylinder and cut crosswise to create strands about ¼ inch wide for fettuccine or about ⅛ inch wide for taglarini. Or, pass each length through the proper cutter blades on the pasta machine. If making pappardelle, using a pastry wheel, cut the sheets lengthwise into 1-inch-wide noodles. To prevent the strands and noodles from sticking, toss them with semolina flour and then place on sheet pans. You can cook the pasta immediately or cover each pan with a large plastic bag to prevent drying and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
For ravioli: Roll out the dough into sheets 15 to 18 inches long. Fold each sheet in half lengthwise to mark the midpoint and then unfold. With a long side facing you, place mounds of filling at 2-inch intervals along the lower half of the sheet. Lightly brush or spray with water around each mound, then fold the top half over the lower half, covering the mounds. Press between each mound of filling to seal, but do not seal the bottom edge. Using a pastry wheel, cut between the mounds, pressing out any trapped air. Finally, press the bottom edge to seal, then trim the edge with the pastry wheel. Line sheet pans with parchment paper. Arrange the ravioli, not touching one another, on the prepared pans. Sprinkle lightly with semolina flour. You can cook the ravioli immediately or refrigerate them, uncovered, for a few hours.
Stuffed Pasta RollsROTOLI DI PASTA
Pasta rolls are a specialty of Emilia-Romagna, but they are also found in the cucina ebraica of Padua. The pasta dough is rolled out by hand into a large rectangle, which is spread with the filling, rolled up, wrapped in cheesecloth, and simmered in salted water. (A fish poacher or deep roasting pan with a rack is ideal.) The cooked rolls can be sliced and served warm topped with melted butter and grated cheese or with a light sauce, or the slices can be topped with butter and cheese, warmed in the oven, and then served with a light sauce, if desired.
A variety of fillings are used, with spinach and ricotta the most common. The following recipes are interpretations of those found in Giuseppe Maffioli’s La cucina padovana and a handful of other Italian cookbooks.SERVES 6 TO 8
To shape the rolls, make a 1½-pound batch of Basic Egg Pasta (page 159), shape into a disk, and let rest as directed. Choose a filling and prepare it. Divide the dough in half. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out half of the dough into a 10-by-20-inch rectangle. Spread with half of the filling. Starting on a short side, roll up the pasta sheet to enclose the filling fully. Wrap in cheesecloth, a clean kitchen towel, or plastic wrap, then tie both ends and once in the middle with kitchen string. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. (At this point, the rolls can be refrigerated for up to 2 hours before continuing.)
To cook the rolls, fill a roasting pan or fish poacher outfitted with a rack with salted water and bring to a simmer. Gently lower the rolls into the water, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Carefully remove the rolls from the pan and drain well.
To serve the rolls, allow them to cool for 5 to 8 minutes, then unwrap and cut crosswise into slices ½ to 1 inch thick. Arrange the slices on a serving platter and top with melted unsalted butter and grated Parmesan cheese or with tomato sauce. Alternatively, place the warm slices in a buttered baking dish, or let the rolls cool completely, then slice and arrange in the prepared baking dish. Drizzle with melted butter and sprinkle with grated Parmesan. Place in a preheated 350°F oven for 10 minutes if the rolls were warm when you sliced them. If they were cold, cover the pan with foil or plastic wrap, place in a water bath, and heat in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Serve with Basic Tomato Sauce (page 328), if desired. If you like, you can thin the tomato sauce with a bit of cream for a lighter tomato flavor.
Spinach and Ricotta Filling for Pasta RollsROTOLI DI SPINACI E RICOTTA
2 pounds fresh spinach, stemmed and rinsed, or 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach, thawed
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups (12 ounces) ricotta cheese, spooned into a sieve placed over a bowl and drained for 2 hours
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
If using fresh spinach, cook it in the rinsing water clinging to the leaves just until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well and chop finely. If using thawed frozen spinach, squeeze dry. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat and let it color slightly. Add the spinach and toss it in the butter for a few minutes. Transfer to a bowl, add the ricotta and eggs, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and mix well. Let cool. Shape, poach, and serve the pasta rolls as directed on page 161 with or without the tomato sauce.
Roman Tuna and Ricotta Filling for Pasta RollsROTOLI DI TONNO E RICOTTA
2 cans (7 ounces each) olive oil–packed tuna, preferably Italian, drained (9 ounces drained)
1 ⅓ cups (11 ounces) ricotta cheese, spooned into a sieve placed over a bowl and drained for 2 hours
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well. Shape, poach, and serve the pasta rolls as directed on page 161 with the tomato sauce.
Baked Meat-Stuffed Pasta RollsROTOLI DI CARNE AL FORNO
In this recipe the pasta roll is baked, though it can also be poached, sliced, and sauced as described for the pasta rolls on page 161. It is based on a description in La cucina padovana by Giuseppe Maffioli, but Mira Sacerdoti, in Italian Jewish Cooking, offers a similar recipe called Meat Loaf in a Dressing Gown. It includes the classic additions of pine nuts and raisins.SERVES 6
1½-pound batch Basic Egg Pasta (page 159)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 pound ground beef or veal
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup dry Marsala or dry sherry, such as fino
Grated zest of 1 lemon (optional)
2 eggs
Fine dried bread crumbs, as needed
2 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 328), heated (optional)
Make the pasta dough, shape into a disk, and let rest as directed.
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for a few minutes longer. Add the beef, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon and cook, breaking up any lumps of beef with a wooden spoon, until the meat loses its color, about 8 minutes. Add the wine and the lemon zest, let the wine bubble up, and then continue to cook until the wine has evaporated. Remove from the heat. Lightly beat 1 egg and add to the meat mixture along with enough bread crumbs to bind the mixture. Let cool for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a sheet pan or line it with parchment paper.
Divide the dough in half. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out half of the dough into a 10-by-20-inch rectangle. Spread with half of the filling. Starting on a short side, roll up the pasta sheet to enclose the filling fully. Place seam side down on the prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Lightly beat the remaining egg, then brush both rolls with the beaten egg.
Bake until golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 to 8 minutes. Cut the rolls into 1-inch-thick slices and serve warm with the sauce.
Meat-Filled RavioliRAVIOLI DI CARNE
Here, I have paired ravioli with tomato sauce, but they are also delicious in a rich meat broth. If you have lots of time on your hands, this filling can be used for tortellini, as well.SERVES 6
1½-pound batch Basic Egg Pasta (page 159)
2 tablespoons olive oil or rendered chicken fat
1 small yellow onion, diced
12 ounces ground lean veal or turkey or chicken breast
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Few gratings nutmeg
2½ to 3 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 328), heated
Make the pasta dough, shape into a disk, and let rest as directed.
Warm the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent and tender, about 8 minutes. Add the meat and cook, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon, until the meat loses its color, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the egg yolks, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and mix well. Let cool.
Roll out the pasta dough and fill and shape the ravioli as directed on page 161.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and cook until al dente. Using a slotted skimmer, scoop out the ravioli and place in a serving dish. Top with the sauce and serve immediately.
VARIATION:
Ricotta and Spinach Ravioli (Ravioli di Ricotta e Spinaci): For Purim, substitute Spinach and Ricotta Filling for Pasta Rolls (page 161) for the meat filling, then shape and cook the ravioli as directed. Top with the tomato sauce, or drizzle with melted butter and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese.
Pumpkin-Filled Ravioli from MantuaRAVIOLI CON LA ZUCCA BARUCCA
Pumpkin arrived in Italy with the Spanish and Portuguese Jews after the Inquisition. Although popular in Ancona and Ferrara, these much-loved ravioli are a specialty of Mantua, where a sizable Jewish community thrived during the reign of the Gonzaga family. The filling can include the addition of almond macaroons (amaretti); ground toasted almonds; mostarda di frutta, a condiment of candied fruit in a mustard-flavored syrup that is a specialty of Cremona; or chopped raisins. None is essential, but each would bring an interesting sweetness to the ravioli.SERVES 6
FILLING
1 sugar pumpkin or kabocha or butternut squash (about 2½ pounds)
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup crushed almond macaroons (amaretti) or ground toasted almonds (optional)
½ cup chopped raisins (optional)
Fine dried bread crumbs, if needed
1½-pound batch Basic Egg Pasta (page 159)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
½ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts or almonds (optional)
To make the filling, roast and purée the squash as directed in Master Recipe for Winter Squash Purée (page 36). Transfer the puréed flesh to a sieve placed over a bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight to drain off the excess moisture.
The next day, make the pasta dough, shape into a disk, and let rest as directed.
To finish the filling, squeeze the pumpkin flesh to remove any additional moisture, then transfer to a bowl, add the cheese, a generous amount of nutmeg, the macaroons, and the raisins. If the mixture still seems too moist, add bread crumbs as needed to absorb the moisture.
Roll out the pasta dough and fill and shape the ravioli as directed on page 161. Alternatively, cut the pasta sheets into 3- to 4-inch rounds, place a heaping tablespoonful of filling in the center of each round, dampen the edges of the round with water, fold in half, and press the edges to seal.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and cook until al dente. Using a slotted skimmer, scoop out the ravioli and place in a serving dish. Drizzle with the butter, sprinkle with the sage, and, if you have not added nuts to the filling, top with the hazelnuts. Serve immediately.
Sabbath Pasta Dish from Emilia-RomagnaHAMIN PER SABATO
As noted earlier, hamin means “oven,” but it is also the name for this incredibly rich dish served on sabato bescialach, a Sabbath that is special to Italy. This crispy noodle pancake with a tender middle is also known as ruota di faraone, or “pharaoh’s wheel,” or frisinsal in Venetian dialect. Originally it was made with goose salami and finely minced rosemary and sage. Today, it’s easy to purchase chicken or turkey sausage, which works well in place of the salami, though you will still need some rendered goose or chicken fat. You can substitute store-bought fresh fettuccine for the homemade pasta.SERVES 6
1-pound batch Basic Egg Pasta (page 159)
FILLING
2 to 3 tablespoons rendered goose or chicken fat
2 cups coarsely chopped cooked Beef Sausage (page 350), poultry sausage, or roast chicken
⅔ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
½ cup raisins, plumped in hot water and drained
1 cup meat juices from a roast or stew or rich meat broth
Make the pasta dough, shape into a disk, let rest, and roll out and cut into fettuccine as directed.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-inch gratin dish or, to reflect the image of the pharoah’s wheel, a round baking dish of about the same volume.
To make the filling, warm the fat in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sausage, pine nuts, and raisins, stir well, and then toss with a little of the meat juices to coat evenly. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente. Drain well and toss the warm noodles with the remaining meat juices.
Layer half of the noodles in the prepared baking dish. Top with all of the meat mixture and then with the remaining noodles. Bake until golden and crispy on the outside but still tender in the center, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool completely, and serve at room temperature.
Whole Wheat Pasta with Anchovies and GarlicBIGOLI CON SALSA ALLA VENEZIANA
Bigoli are whole wheat spaghetti, somewhat thicker and longer than regular packaged spaghetti. They are made with eggs and are extruded through a press called a bigolaro. You can make this dish with whole wheat, farro, or regular durum wheat packaged pasta. Long, thin shapes are best. Whole wheat pasta cooks quickly and does not hold well, so serve it right away.
This classic Venetian pasta is dressed simply with anchovy, garlic, and olive oil. Salt-packed anchovies are preferred, but olive oil–packed anchovies can be substituted. Don’t omit the parsley. It delivers more than just color. Do not chop it too finely, either, or its flavor will be lessened. A little grated lemon zest or a handful of toasted bread crumbs will lighten the fish flavor.SERVES 6
1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
4 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12 salt-packed anchovies, filleted, rinsed, and finely chopped, or 24 olive oil–packed anchovy fillets (about one 3-ounce jar)
3 or 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Grated zest of 1 large lemon (optional)
½ cup dried bread crumbs, toasted (optional)
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente.
Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large sauté pan over low heat. Add the anchovies and cook, stirring, until they start to melt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and parsley and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes longer.
Drain the pasta, reserving about ¼ cup of the pasta water. Raise the heat under the sauce to medium and add the pasta and water to the sauté pan. Toss and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to coat and flavor the pasta with the sauce. Sprinkle with some pepper and the lemon zest and bread crumbs and serve immediately.
Pasta with Tuna SauceSPAGHETTI AL TONNO
This recipe takes the bigoli recipe on page 167 one step further. It’s a bit more filling, as chopped onion is sautéed in olive oil, and canned tuna and capers are tossed into the basic anchovy-garlic sauce at the last minute. Sometimes tomato is added, sometimes not.SERVES 4 OR 5
1 pound long dried pasta, such as spaghetti
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
12 salt-packed anchovies, filleted, rinsed, and very finely chopped, or 24 olive oil–packed anchovy fillets (about one 3-ounce jar)
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 can (6 ounces) olive oil–packed tuna, preferably Italian, drained and broken up
2 tablespoons brined capers, rinsed and chopped
1 to 2 cups chopped canned plum tomatoes (optional)
Grated lemon zest (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente.
Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the anchovies, garlic, and parsley and cook, stirring, until the anchovies melt, about 1 minute. Add the tuna, capers, tomatoes, and lemon zest and cook until all of the ingredients are warmed through, about 2 minutes.
Drain the pasta and add to the sauce in the sauté pan over medium heat. Toss and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to coat and flavor the pasta with the sauce. Sprinkle with pepper and serve immediately.
Fried NoodlesFIDELLOS TOSTADOS
In Spain, fideos is a classic fried noodle dish prepared in the manner of paella. The noodles are sautéed to color them and then they are cooked in broth until the liquid is absorbed. In the Turkish book Sefarad Yemekleri, these fried noodles are called skulaka, and in some Greek cookbooks they are fideikos. The fidellos used here is the Ladino term. Coiled vermicelli or fedelini are the noodles of choice. If you are using the coils, there is no need to break them up, but if you are using the long pasta, you’ll need to break it into 3-inch lengths. If the noodles will be accompanying a meat-based dish, use meat or poultry broth or water; for a dairy meal, use vegetable broth or water.SERVES 4 TO 6
½ cup olive or sunflower oil
1 package (12 ounces) coiled vermicelli, or long fedelini, broken into 3-inch lengths
2 cups peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes (fresh or canned), optional
3 cups broth or water or part water and part tomato liquid if using canned tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the noodles and fry, turning once, until golden, about 5 minutes total. Add tomatoes, broth, and salt, cover partially, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Serve hot.
Macaroni and CheeseMAKARONIA KON LECHE
Although this seems remarkably familiar and all-American, makaronia kon leche was a specialty of the town of Komotini in Thrace and was often served at Shavuot. The Greeks did not use elbow macaroni but the longer version of the noodle. The dish can be cooked on the stove top or in the oven.SERVES 4 TO 6
1 pound macaroni, ziti, or penne
1 cup milk
¼ cup crumbled feta cheese, plus more if baking
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more if baking
To cook on the stove top, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until a couple of minutes shy of al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain well.
In a medium-large saucepan, bring the milk just to a boil over medium heat. Add the ¼ cup feta and the ¼ cup Parmesan, turn down the heat to low, and then add the cooked pasta. Cook until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the pasta is quite tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Serve hot.
To cook in the oven, preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the pasta as directed, transfer to a generously buttered baking dish, stir in the milk and ¼ cup each feta and Parmesan, and sprinkle the top with more feta and Parmesan. Bake until the top is browned, about 20 minutes. Serve hot.
Syrian Chicken with MacaroniDJEJ MACARUNI
According to cookbook author Gilda Angel, this is a Sabbath favorite of the Syrian Jews. It is called treya in Egypt, and a version of chicken and noodles appears in the Moroccan kitchen as inetria, with both names related to itriya, the early Arabic term for pasta. In the Moroccan dish, the chicken is simmered in a flavorful broth, skinned, boned, and cut into small pieces, and then tossed with fettuccine-like noodles cooked in the same broth and seasoned with turmeric or saffron. These combos of chicken and noodles are simple and comforting. Certainly this dish would more than please children and any fussy eaters in your family. It’s the beloved chicken pasta dish they hunger for and that Italians never serve.SERVES 4 TO 6
2 small broiler chickens, each cut into 8 pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sweet paprika
2 to 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound macaroni, shells, farfalle, or other short pasta
2 tablespoons olive oil
⅔ cup tomato sauce
½ cup chicken broth
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground allspice
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Season the chicken pieces with salt, pepper, and paprika. Arrange the pieces in a single layer in a baking pan and sprinkle the garlic evenly over them. Cover the dish with foil. Bake until very tender, about 1½ hours.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente. Drain, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking, and toss with the oil to prevent sticking.
When the chicken is ready, remove the pieces from the pan, let them cool until they can be handled, and then remove and discard the skin and bones. Cut into bite-size pieces. Add the cooked macaroni to the pan and toss with the pan juices. Add the chicken, tomato sauce, broth, cinnamon, and allspice and mix well.
Bake, uncovered, until the top is browned and crisp, 35 to 45 minutes. Serve hot.
Pasta and Meat GratinTORTINO DE MACCHERONI CON CARNE
In The Sephardic Kosher Kitchen, Suzy David also calls this dish mussaka de macarons. In keeping with the spirit of a classic moussaka, you can add a layer of cooked eggplant slices to the gratin. In traditional Greek cooking, this dish is known as pastitsio. This version of the recipe comes from a Sephardic menu that appears in Le feste ebr`aiche, published in Rome in 1987.SERVE 4 TO 6
1 pound macaroni, shells, farfalle, penne rigate, or other short pasta
5 to 6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 pound ground beef or veal, or a combination
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
5 eggs
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 globe eggplant, peeled, sliced crosswise, and fried in olive oil or baked until soft (optional)
1½ cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 328)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente, then drain.
Meanwhile, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the beef, season with salt and pepper, and cook, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon, until the meat is lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and remove from the heat. Lightly beat 2 of the eggs and stir into the meat mixture. Stir in the parsley.
Lightly beat the remaining 3 eggs and stir into the drained pasta. Layer half of the pasta in the prepared baking dish. Top with the meat mixture, spreading it evenly, and then with the eggplant slices. Layer the remaining pasta on top. Drizzle with the remaining 2 to 3 tablespoons oil.
Bake until the top is golden, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot, accompanied with the sauce.
VARIATION:
Do not add the 3 eggs to the cooked pasta. Make a fake béchamel using 3 tablespoons margarine, 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, and 1½ cups meat broth. When the sauce has thickened, remove from the heat and gradually whisk in 3 eggs, lightly beaten. To build the gratin, layer half of the pasta in the baking dish, top with one-third of the béchamel, add all of the meat mixture, then add half of the remaining béchamel, all of the remaining pasta, and finish with the remaining béchamel. Bake as directed.
Polenta
Polenta is a basic accompaniment for many Italian Jewish dishes. It can be served warm, as soft and comforting as porridge, unadorned or enriched with butter or cheese for a dairy meal. Or it can be allowed to firm up and then cut into pieces and sautéed, baked, or deep-fried. Most traditional recipes call for slowly pouring the cornmeal in a fine stream into boiling water and then stirring vigorously to prevent lumps. But I have found that combining the polenta and the cold water in the pot and then gradually bringing the mixture to a boil while whisking occasionally is a foolproof method for preventing lumps.SERVES 4
1 cup polenta
4 cups water
Salt
3 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter and ⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese if serving soft
Clarified butter or olive oil if sautéing
Grated Parmesan cheese for sprinkling if baking
Olive oil, 1 or 2 eggs, and fine dried bread crumbs for coating, if deep-frying
Combine the polenta, water, and 1 teaspoon salt in a heavy saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, whisking occasionally. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until very thick and no longer grainy on the tongue, about 30 minutes. If the polenta thickens too quickly but still feels undercooked and grainy, stir in some hot water and continue to cook until it is cooked through and soft. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and then add the butter or cheese if desired.
Serve the polenta warm right out of the pot. You can also hold the polenta over hot water in a double boiler for 30 minutes or so, adding hot water as needed to keep it soft and spoonable.
Or, you can butter or oil a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking pan, pour the hot polenta into the pan, let cool until just set, and then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled and fully set. To serve, cut the polenta into strips, squares, or triangles, or as directed in individual recipes, and then remove from the pan.
To sauté the pieces, place a nonstick or cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat and add just enough clarified butter to film the bottom. In batches, add the pieces and cook, turning as needed and adding more butter as needed, until golden on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes total. Serve hot.
To bake the pieces, preheat the oven to 400°F and butter 1 or more gratin dishes. Place the polenta pieces in a single layer in the prepared dish(es) and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Bake until golden and crusty, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve hot.
To deep-fry the pieces, line a sheet pan with paper towels and preheat the oven to 200°F. Pour the oil to a depth of about 1 inch into a wide, deep sauté pan or saucepan and heat to 350°F. Meanwhile, break the egg into a shallow bowl and beat until blended (add the second egg later if needed). Spread the bread crumbs on a plate. Working with a few pieces at a time, dip them into the beaten egg and then into the bread crumbs, tapping off the excess. Slip the pieces into the hot oil and fry, turning once, until golden on both sides, 5 to 7 minutes total. Using a slotted spatula, transfer them to the towel-lined pan to drain and keep warm in the oven until all of the pieces are cooked. Serve hot.