TODAY, WE THINK OF CHICKEN as a relatively inexpensive option for dinner, but years ago in the Mediterranean, chickens were more costly than beef and lamb. Even more important, chickens were valued more for their eggs than for their meat. Thus, poultry recipes are not a large category in the Sephardic and Mediterranean Jewish kitchen, but the number of egg-based or egg-enhanced dishes is impressive.
Chickens were cooked when they were too old to produce eggs. Roast chicken was occasionally served at holiday meals and on the Sabbath. The bird was more often braised, often with peppers, okra, tomatoes, eggplant, or onions. Sauces were sometimes sweetened with the addition of honey or fruits, or made savory with spiced onions, preserved lemons, and briny cured olives. Poultry might also turn up at the center of a spectacular holiday pastry, such as Moroccan b’stilla (page 82).
Fried chicken was served at Hanukkah, and chicken dumplings were served in the Passover chicken broth. Odd pieces were ground and formed into little meatballs. Chicken was paired with noodles or rice for a homey family meal, baked as a sturdy meat loaf, or added to omelets and soups to make them more substantial.
Because chickens were older when slaughtered, they took longer to cook than today’s quickly raised birds that become tender within minutes. Chicken thighs are my first choice for braising or broiling, as they hold their juiciness better than breasts, which tend to dry out. If you are cutting up a whole bird and cooking the pieces together, watch the breasts carefully as they cook and remove them as soon as they appear done. Cooking them on the bone will also help keep the meat moist. Whether you brown chicken pieces before braising is up to you. The browning will give them better color, but the skin will lose any crispness during the braising.
Chicken with ApplesGAYNA KON MANZANA
Cooking chicken with fruit is a long-established Hispano-Arabic tradition. La table juive calls this Turkish recipe “chicken with apples,” though apricots should be in the title as well, as they are an integral part of the dish and most assuredly flavor the sauce. In the original recipe, the chicken and dried fruits are marinated in the same bowl. I prefer to let the fruits soak separately from the bird, as they don’t need much time to soften. It is best if the chicken marinates longer—even overnight—to pick up the flavors of the spices and the wine. I imagine that if you made this dish with mixed dried fruits, including dried apples, it would be delicious, as well.SERVES 4 TO 6
1 roasting chicken, 4 to 5 pounds, cut into serving pieces, or 8 to 12 chicken thighs
3 cups white wine, or as needed
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground mace
1¾ cups dried apricots
3 pounds tart apples (about 6 large), such as Granny Smith or pippin, peeled, quartered, and cored
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cinnamon stick
¼ cup olive oil
3 yellow onions, chopped
Salt
½ cup sesame seeds, toasted
Place the chicken pieces in a bowl. In a small bowl, combine 1½ cups of the wine, the honey, ginger, ground cinnamon, pepper, and mace and mix well. Rub the mixture over the chicken pieces and then cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least a few hours or up to overnight.
In a bowl, combine the apricots with the remaining 1½ cups wine, or as needed to cover, and set aside to soften for a few hours.
In a saucepan, combine the apples, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon stick, and water to cover. Bring to a simmer over low heat, and simmer for 8 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid, and set the apples and liquid aside separately.
Warm the oil in a stew pot or other large braising pan over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté, sprinkling them with salt, until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the chicken and its marinade, the soaked apricots and any remaining wine, and the apple poaching liquid to the pan. The chicken should be just covered; if it isn’t, add water as needed. Bring to a gentle boil, turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook gently, checking from time to time and adding water if needed to prevent the fruit from scorching, until the chicken is almost cooked, about 30 minutes.
Add the apples and simmer until the chicken and apples are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Serve hot, sprinkled with the sesame seeds.
Chicken with Apricots and TomatoesDJAH MISH MISH
I have seen variations of this recipe in Indian and Syrian cookbooks, even though apricots originated in Iran. The addition of tomatoes makes this an interesting mix of Old World and New World ingredients. The apricot and tomato sauce is sweet, tart, and aromatic and adds a lively tang to simple Cornish hens or chicken. Some Syrian cooks add tamarind to the sauce to heighten the tart-sweet balance. Although I often serve this dish at Passover as part of the Seder meal, I need no special holiday to cook this all year long, as it’s a family favorite. Serve with rice, bulgur, or freekeh pilaf and with sautéed spinach.SERVES 6
3 tablespoons rendered chicken fat or olive oil, plus more oil if browning the hens
4 cups chopped yellow onions (about 3 medium)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
3 cups drained diced canned tomatoes (with juices reserved, optional)
3½ cups dried apricots, soaked in warm water to cover (will expand to about 5 cups after soaking)
2 cups chicken broth, water, or a combination of apricot soaking liquid, tomato juices, and water, or as needed
⅓ cup packed brown sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 Cornish hens or poussins, each 1 to 1½ pounds, or 12 chicken thighs
Warm the chicken fat in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the cinnamon and the cloves and cook for about 3 minutes longer. Add about ½ cup of the reserved tomato juices, stir well, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, drain the apricots, reserving the liquid. Purée half of the soaked apricots in a food processor and coarsely chop the remainder.
Add the puréed apricots, diced tomatoes, and 1 cup of the broth to the onions and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the chopped apricots, the brown sugar, and the remaining 1 cup broth and simmer for 5 minutes longer. You should have a medium-thick sauce; add more liquid if needed. Season with salt and pepper and then set aside until serving. (This sauce can be made up to a day in advance, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat just before using.)
This dish can be finished two different ways. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the Cornish hens on a rack in a roasting pan. Sprinkle them with salt, pepper, and the remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Roast until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool until they can be handled, cut into quarters, and warm the quarters in the apricot sauce on the stove top and serve hot.
Or preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the whole birds into quarters, sprinkle them with salt, pepper, and the remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and brown the pieces on all sides in oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Spoon half of the sauce into a large baking dish, arrange the poultry pieces on top in a single layer, and spoon the remaining sauce over the pieces. Bake until tender, about 30 minutes, and then serve hot.
Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon, and GingerPOLLO ARROSTO ALL’ARANCIA, LIMONE E ZENZERO
This is the old family standby. Everyone loves this Italian Jewish recipe for roast chicken. Ginger arrived in Italy with Arabic traders or North African Jewish immigrants, so it’s likely that this is a Sicilian or Livornese recipe. Most Italians would use ground ginger, but since fresh ginger is so plentiful at our markets, I have used it here.SERVES 4 OR 5
1 lemon
1 roasting chicken, about 4 pounds
Grated zest of 1 lemon, with remaining lemon cut into quarters
Grated zest of 1 orange, with remaining orange cut into quarters
3 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons margarine, melted, or olive oil
3 tablespoons honey
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
½ cup fresh orange juice
2 to 4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, in place of some of the citrus juice (optional)
Orange sections for garnish
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the whole lemon into quarters. Rub the outside of the chicken with a lemon quarter and discard it. Reserve the remaining 3 quarters for the cavity.
In a small bowl, stir together the lemon and orange zests and 1 tablespoon of the grated ginger. Rub this mixture evenly in the chicken cavity, then put all of the lemon quarters and the orange quarters in the cavity. Place the chicken on a rack in a roasting pan. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper.
In the same small bowl, combine the margarine, honey, lemon and orange juices (or use pomegranate juice in place of some of the citrus juice), and the remaining 2 tablespoons ginger and mix well.
Place the chicken in the oven and roast, basting with the margarine mixture at least four times during cooking, until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a knife, 1 to 1¼ hours.
Transfer to a serving platter and let rest for about 10 minutes. Carve the chicken and garnish with orange sections.
Matzo-Stuffed Roast Chicken for PassoverKOTOPOULO PSITO
Here, dried currants, walnuts, and matzo meal combine to make a rich, savory stuffing for the Passover roast chicken. (The same amount of stuffing can be used for two 3-pound birds.) The recipe is based on one from the Greek community of Ioannina as transcribed by Nicholas Stavroulakis in his wonderful Cookbook of the Jews of Greece.SERVES 4 TO 6
1 roasting chicken with giblets, about 5 pounds
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for rubbing
1 cup matzo meal
1⅔ cups dry white wine, or as needed
3 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
2 cups dried currants
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Remove the giblets from the chicken cavity. Warm 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the gizzard and heart and sear well on all sides. Add the liver and cook, turning as needed, for a few minutes longer. Transfer the giblets to a cutting board and chop finely.
In a bowl, combine the matzo meal, ½ to ⅔ cup wine, the eggs, the walnuts, the currants, and the giblets. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, season with salt and pepper, and mix well.
Spoon the stuffing into the chicken cavity loosely and sew or skewer closed. Reserve any extra stuffing. Rub the chicken liberally with oil and the lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place on a rack in a roasting pan.
Roast the chicken, basting occasionally with the remaining wine and with the pan drippings, until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a knife, about 1½ hours. If you have stuffing that did not fit into the bird, put it in the roasting pan for the last 15 minutes of roasting, where it will cook and take on color.
Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and let rest for about 10 minutes. Scoop out the stuffing into a serving bowl and carve the chicken.
Roast Chicken Stuffed with RiceDJAJ MIHSHEE BI ROZ
In Syria and Lebanon, chickens are stuffed with a fragrant rice or bulgur pilaf. (If you opt for bulgur, use medium-grind bulgur in the same amount as the rice.) The grain is not fully cooked when the stuffing is made, as it will continue to cook inside the bird, where it will absorb the meat juices. Here, I provide the option of a large roasting chicken or smaller birds.SERVES 6
1 lemon, halved
6 Cornish hens or poussins, each about 1½ pounds, or 1 roasting chicken, about 5 pounds
Kosher salt
STUFFING
2½ cups water, lightly salted
1½ cups basmati rice
4 tablespoons olive oil or margarine
2 yellow onions, diced
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅔ cup dried currants, plumped in hot water and drained
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
½ cup almonds, toasted
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
BASTING MIXTURE
4 to 6 tablespoons margarine, melted, or olive oil
1 teaspoon ground allspice or cinnamon
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rub the cut sides of the lemon over the inside and outside of the birds or roasting chicken, then sprinkle inside and outside with salt. Reserve at room temperature.
To make the stuffing, in a saucepan, bring the salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, stir once, lower the heat to a simmer, and cover the pan. Cook until the liquid is just absorbed, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
Warm the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the allspice and cinnamon and cook for a few minutes longer. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a bowl, combine the rice, onion mixture, currants, pine nuts, almonds, parsley, and lemon zest and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the stuffing loosely into the birds or chicken and sew or skewer closed.
To make the basting mixture, in small bowl, combine the margarine, allspice, garlic, and lemon juice and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
Place the birds or chicken on a rack in a shallow roasting pan or in a sheet pan and roast, basting occasionally with the basting mixture, until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a knife, 45 to 60 minutes for the small birds and about 30 minutes longer for the chicken.
Let rest for a few minutes, then serve. For ease of eating, cut the small birds in half and present them on individual plates. Scoop out the stuffing from the large chicken, then carve in the usual fashion and serve on a platter.
IRANIAN VARIATION:
Iranian cooks use basmati rice for the stuffing. Prepare the onion mixture as directed, then combine the rice and the onion mixture with 3 tablespoons dried rose petals; ¼ cup each dried cherries and dried barberries or dried cranberries, soaked in hot water to soften; ¼ cup chopped pistachios; and 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest. Stuff and roast the birds or roasting chicken as directed, basting with a mixture of olive oil, orange and lemon juices, and a bit of pomegranate molasses.
Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemon and OlivesPOULET AUX CITRONS ET OLIVES
This recipe is from Saveurs de mon enfance and is a specialty of Fez. Serve with couscous or rice.SERVES 4 TO 6
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
⅓ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground toasted cumin
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
Peel of 2 preserved lemons, homemade (page 356) or store-bought, rinsed and 1 peel chopped and 1 peel slivered
1 fryer chicken, 3½ to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
1½ cups water
1⅓ cups green olives
Salt
Fresh lemon juice, if needed
Warm the oil in a stew pot over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until pale gold, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic, cilantro, ginger, paprika, cumin, pepper, saffron, and the chopped preserved lemon and mix well. Arrange the chicken pieces on top of the onion mixture, add the water, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, occasionally turning the chicken in the sauce.
Add the olives and the slivered preserved lemon and continue to cook until the chicken is very tender, about 15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and with lemon juice if needed. If the sauce is too thin, transfer the chicken to a warmed platter and reduce the sauce over high heat until a good consistency is achieved. Spoon the sauce and olives over the chicken and serve.
Algerian Tagine of Chicken with QuincePOULET AUX COINGS
The quince is thought to have been the apple in the Garden of Eden. When they are in season, quinces add an exotic sweetness to any dish and can perfume your entire house if left in a fruit bowl on the dining table. Ideally, they turn a lovely terra-cotta red when cooked. Maybe it’s my imagination, but I’ve noticed that most European quinces turn red more quickly, and ours become tender well before they take on color. To ensure the color, you may want to add a bit of pomegranate molasses to the poaching liquid. When you are making quince jam (page 365), you can cook the fruits for a long time until the color comes up, as texture is not crucial. But if you want the quince slices to retain their shape, as you do here, you cannot cook them too long. That’s why I cook the quinces separately and then add them to the chicken stew during the last 15 minutes of braising.
This fragrant stew is the ideal dish for Rosh Hashanah to welcome in the sweet New Year. It is based on a recipe from Léone Jaffin’s 150 recettes et mille et un souvenirs d’une juive d’Algérie and is a favorite of my family. Quince season is short, and because my family loves this stew, I put up several pint jars of preserved quince slices (page 367) each year, which turns this recipe into a quick-and-easy dinner that we can have any time. I cook the chicken thighs and when they are tender I add the preserved slices and heat them through. I steam some couscous and dinner is ready.SERVES 6
2 pounds quinces (about 4), peeled, cut into eighths, and cored
Pomegranate molasses, if needed for color
1 large chicken, 4 to 5 pounds; 2 broiler chickens, about 2½ pounds each; or 12 chicken thighs
½ cup olive oil
3 yellow onions, chopped
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Salt
In a saucepan, combine the quinces with water to barely cover, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the fruit rest for 1 hour. Return the pan to medium heat and continue cooking the quinces until they turn pink or terra-cotta. You can repeat this stop-start method a few times until the quinces turn color, which will take about 30 minutes of active cooking time in all. If you are impatient and the fruits are tender and not yet a rich color, add up to ½ cup pomegranate molasses to the pan. Set the quinces aside in their poaching liquid.
If you are using 1 or 2 whole chickens, cut into serving pieces. Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. In batches, add the chicken pieces and sear well on all sides. Using tongs, transfer to a plate. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the pan and sauté over medium heat until golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the nutmeg and cinnamon and cook for 5 minutes longer. Return the chicken pieces and their accumulated juices to the pan, cover, and braise for about 20 minutes. Add the quince pieces and some of their cooking liquid and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 15 minutes longer.
Season with salt, then taste and adjust the seasoning with more nutmeg and cinnamon if you want those flavors to be more intense. Serve hot.
Persian Chicken with Pomegranate and Walnut SauceKHORESH-E FESENJAN
Fesenjan is one of the most revered dishes of Persian cuisine, and deservedly so, because the walnut and pomegranate sauce is exquisite. Traditionally this sauce is used for chicken or duck, so I was surprised to find meatballs cooked in it when I was in Iran. The recipe calls for pomegranate molasses, which you can find in a well-stocked supermarket, at a store specializing in Middle Eastern foods, or online. It is a staple in my pantry. You can instead reduce bottled pomegranate juice, augment it with pomegranate molasses, and then add less chicken broth. In either case, you will need to balance the sweet-tart ratio and cook the sauce until it is thick. In Isfahan, residents prefer their sauce a bit sweeter than in Yazd or Shiraz. The only other variable here is how the walnuts are chopped. Sometimes they are minced almost to the point of a purée; other times, they are chunkier. I like a little texture, but the choice is yours. Fesenjan is usually served with chelo (page 149).SERVES 4
6 tablespoons olive oil
4 chicken thighs and 4 drumsticks; 8 chicken thighs; or 1 broiler chicken, about 2½ pounds, cut into 8 serving pieces
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 yellow onions, chopped (about 4 cups)
½ cup pomegranate molasses, or 2 cups pomegranate juice reduced to 1 cup and ¼ cup pomegranate molasses
½ cup tomato sauce
2 cups walnuts, toasted and chopped
1½ cups chicken broth, or 1 cup if using reduced pomegranate juice and molasses, or as needed
Fresh lemon juice and sugar as needed for sweet-tart balance
Pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)
Warm 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken pieces and fry, turning as needed and sprinkling with the salt, pepper, and ½ teaspoon of the cinnamon, until lightly colored on all sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside while you make the sauce.
Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a stew pot over low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, about 15 minutes. Add the remaining 1½ teaspoons cinnamon and cook for a minute or two. Add the pomegranate molasses or reduced juice and molasses, tomato sauce, walnuts, and 1½ cups broth if using molasses or 1 cup broth if using reduced juice and molasses. Simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. If the sauce is too thick, add a bit more broth.
Add the chicken to the sauce, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. If the pomegranate has made the sauce too sweet, add some lemon juice. If the sauce is too tart, balance the flavor with a little sugar. Serve hot, garnished with the pomegranate seeds.
Moroccan Chicken with Almonds and RaisinsPOULET AUX AMANDES ET RAISINS SECS
This recipe can be made with individual birds like poussins or Cornish hens, but I think thighs or other chicken pieces are easier to cook, serve, and eat. If you do opt to prepare whole birds, they will need to cook for about an hour. Serve this dish with couscous.SERVES 6
12 chicken thighs (or a few more if small), or 1 large chicken, 4 to 5 pounds, cut into serving pieces
1 lemon, halved
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup olive oil, or as needed
4 yellow onions, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon saffron threads steeped in ¼ cup hot water
1½ cups water or chicken broth, or as needed
1 cup raisins
1 cup blanched almonds, toasted
1 cup honey
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Rub the chicken pieces with the cut sides of the lemon, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, stir together the coriander, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and nutmeg. Rub half of the spice mixture over the chicken pieces.
Select a stew pot large enough to hold all of the chicken pieces, add 3 to 4 tablespoons of the oil, and warm over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Add the remaining spice mixture and stir well. Reserve off the heat.
Warm the remaining 4 or 5 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. In batches, add the chicken pieces and brown well on all sides, adding more oil if needed. As the chicken pieces are ready, add them to the onions. When all of the chicken is in the pot, add the saffron infusion and enough water to come about 1½ inches up the sides of the pot. Bring to a simmer on the stove top, cover, transfer to the oven, and cook for 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven, uncover, and add the raisins and almonds and a little more water if the pot looks dry. Drizzle most of the honey over the chicken pieces to glaze them and let the remainder fall onto the onions. Re-cover the pot, return to the oven, and cook until the chicken is tender, about 20 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.
Fried Chicken for HanukkahPOLLO FRITTO DI HANUCCA
The dishes served at Hanukkah are fried to remind the Jews of the oil lamp that burned for eight days in the Second Temple in Jerusalem, even though the amount appeared sufficient for only one day. This recipe for fried chicken, Italian style, is rather bland, so I have brined the chicken for added moisture and flavor. I have also added grated lemon and orange zests, garlic powder, onion powder, and nutmeg to the flour.SERVES 4 TO 6
BRINE
1 cup kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
8 cloves garlic, unpeeled and smashed
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 cinnamon sticks
4 allspice berries
5 bay leaves
2 lemons, halved
8 fresh thyme sprigs
8 fresh parsley sprigs
4 quarts water
1 fryer chicken, 3½ to 4 pounds, cut into 8 to 10 serving pieces, or 4 pounds assorted chicken parts
3 eggs
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons grated orange zest
3 tablespoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons onion powder
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Canola oil for deep-frying
Lemon wedges for serving
Combine all of the brine ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Place the chicken pieces in a large bowl or plastic container, pour the cooled brine over them, cover tightly, and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse, and pat dry. Discard the brine. Place a large rack on a large sheet pan. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs and lemon juice until blended, then season with salt and pepper. In a second bowl, combine the flour, citrus zests, garlic and onion powders, and nutmeg, season with salt and pepper, and mix well. Divide the seasoned flour between 2 shallow bowls or deep platters. One at a time, dip the chicken pieces in the flour, coating both sides and tapping off the excess. Next, dip into the beaten egg, allowing the excess to drip off, and then finally, dip in the second bowl of seasoned flour. As each piece is dipped, set it aside on the rack. Let the pieces stand for 15 to 20 minutes to allow the coating to set.
Pour the oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches into a large, deep sauté pan and heat to 375°F. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a large sheet pan with paper towels. In batches, slip the chicken pieces into the hot oil and fry, turning as needed, until golden on all sides and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Using tongs, transfer to the prepared sheet pan and keep warm in the oven until all of the chicken pieces are fried. Arrange the chicken on a platter and serve hot with lemon wedges.
My Moroccan-Spiced Fried Chicken for Hanukkah
This chicken is not served in Morocco, but the spices are of the region and the flavor is big and satisfying.SERVES 8
Brine (see Fried Chicken for Hanukkah, page 277)
6 whole chicken breasts, each about 1 pound, split and then the halves cut in half crosswise; 12 chicken thighs and 12 drumsticks; or any combination of chicken parts totaling about 5 pounds (24 pieces)
4 eggs
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
4 cups all-purpose flour
SPICE MIX
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground nutmeg
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon cayenne or 1 teaspoon Maras pepper
1 tablespoon salt
Canola oil for deep-frying
Make the brine and brine the chicken pieces as directed in Fried Chicken for Hanukkah.
Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse, and pat dry. Discard the brine. Top 2 large sheet pans with racks. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs and lemon juice until blended.
In a second bowl, stir together the flour and all of the spice mix ingredients. Divide the seasoned flour between 2 shallow bowls or deep platters. One at a time, dip the chicken pieces in the flour, coating both sides and tapping off the excess. Next, dip into the beaten egg, allowing the excess to drip off, and then finally, dip in the second bowl of seasoned flour. As each piece is dipped, set it aside on a rack. Let the pieces stand for 15 to 20 minutes to allow the coating to set.
Pour the oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches into a large, deep sauté pan and heat to 375°F. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line 1 or 2 large sheet pans with paper towels. In batches, slip the chicken pieces into the hot oil and fry, turning as needed, until golden on all sides and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Using tongs, transfer to the prepared sheet pan(s) and keep warm in the oven until all of the chicken is fried. Arrange the chicken on a platter and serve hot.
NOTE:
You may substitute 5 tablespoons prepared ras el hanout (see pantry) for the spice mix, but add ½ teaspoon cayenne or 1 teaspoon Maras pepper.
Persian Chicken KebabJUJEH KABAB
Although most recipes for chicken kebabs call for boneless, skinless chicken breasts, the kebabs run the risk of overcooking because the meat is lean. I prefer to use skin-on, boneless chicken thighs. They remain moist and juicy throughout the cooking, and the skin carries the wonderful flavor of the marinade. This marinade can also be used on butterflied poussins, small broiler chickens, or Cornish hens or on bone-in chicken breasts, thighs, or other chicken parts.
This recipe was passed on to me by an Iranian friend, but I have seen versions of this dish in cookbooks from the Caucasus, as well. Serve with Persian Rice (page 149) and with sautéed spinach or zucchini with chopped walnuts or toasted pine nuts.SERVES 6
MARINADE
1 yellow onion, cut into chunks (about 1½ cups)
½ cup fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground turmeric, or ½ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed and steeped in 2 tablespoons hot water
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
1 cup olive oil
12 large or 18 small skin-on, boneless chicken thighs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ground sumac for sprinkling
Lemon wedges for serving
To make the marinade, in a blender or food processor, combine the onion, lemon juice, paprika, turmeric, and garlic and purée until smooth. Add the oil and process until incorporated.
Place the chicken in a shallow dish, add the marinade, and turn once or twice to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to overnight. (Alternatively, combine the chicken and marinade in a large resealable plastic bag.) Bring the chicken to room temperature before cooking.
Preheat the broiler or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade. Thread the thighs onto skewers (if using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes before using) and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil or grill, turning once, until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced in the thickest part, about 4 minutes on each side. Sprinkle with sumac and serve with lemon wedges.
MARINADE VARIATIONS:
Syrian Chicken Kebab (Shish Taouk): Combine 4 to 6 cloves garlic, finely minced; ½ cup fresh lemon juice; 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme; 1 teaspoon sweet paprika; ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or Aleppo pepper flakes; 1 teaspoon salt; ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; and ½ cup olive oil and mix well. Use only 8 to 12 skin-on, boneless chicken thighs. Marinate and cook as directed. Omit the sumac.
Persian-Inspired Chicken Kebab with Pomegranate and Orange (Morgh Kabab e Naranj): Combine ¼ cup pomegranate molasses; ½ cup fresh orange juice; ¼ cup verjus or fresh lemon juice; ¼ cup honey, or to taste; 1 tablespoon grated orange zest; 1 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground ginger, and salt; ½ teaspoon ground cardamom; and lots of freshly ground black pepper and mix well. Use only 8 to 12 skin-on, boneless chicken thighs. Marinate and cook as directed. The skin will darken and char a bit because of the honey, but it will still taste delicious. Omit the sumac and lemon wedges. Garnish with orange segments and pomegranate seeds.
Middle Eastern Chicken Kebab: Combine 4 cloves garlic, finely minced; 1 tablespoon ground cumin; 1½ teaspoons each ground ginger and allspice; ¼ cup fresh lemon juice; ½ cup olive oil; salt to taste; and lots of freshly ground black pepper and mix well. Use only 8 to 12 skin-on, boneless chicken thighs. Marinate and cook as directed. Omit the sumac.
Chicken with Onions, Peppers, and PaprikaARMI DO GAYNA
Armi do gayna resembles the classic pollo al chilindrón from the Rioja and Navarre regions in Spain, both famous for sweet peppers. The addition of allspice is a decidedly Turkish touch. I also like a subtle hint of heat in the background. In The Sephardic Kosher Kitchen, Suzy David calls this gaina kon zarzavat and adds dill for a leafy touch. Serve with rice and pass lemon wedges to brighten the flavors.SERVES 4 TO 6
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large chicken, about 4½ pounds, cut into serving pieces
4 or 5 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
3 large red bell peppers, seeded and sliced lengthwise into narrow strips
2½ tablespoons sweet paprika
¾ teaspoon ground allspice
1 bay leaf
Pinch of cayenne pepper or hot paprika (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup water or chicken broth, or as needed
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish (optional)
Lemon wedges for serving
Warm the oil in a large, heavy sauté pan over high heat. When the oil is hot, in batches if necessary, add the chicken pieces and fry, turning as needed, until golden on all sides. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
Add the onions to the oil remaining in the pan and sauté over medium heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the bell peppers, paprika, allspice, bay leaf, and cayenne, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the onions are golden, about 10 minutes longer.
Return the chicken pieces to the pan and add the water. (If the pan is not large enough to hold all of the chicken, transfer the contents of the sauté pan to a stew pot along with the chicken.) Turn down the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer until the chicken is tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Check the pan from time to time, and if the pan juices have evaporated, add more water.
Taste the pan juices and adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer the chicken and pan juices to a serving platter and sprinkle with a bit of parsley. Pass the lemon wedges at the table.
Chicken with EggplantPOLLO KON BERENJENA
The choice of vegetable is the only variable in this Sephardic recipe served in both Greece and Turkey. The chicken is braised in tomato sauce, either eggplant or okra (see variation) is added, and then the chicken and the vegetable are simmered together. The preparation of each vegetable is quite different, however. I have suggested the addition of garlic and oregano to boost the overall flavor of the dish, though they are not traditional. Serve the dish with rice pilaf or olive oil mashed potatoes.SERVES 6 TO 8
2 pounds eggplants
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil for frying
2 broiler chickens, each about 2½ pounds, cut into serving pieces, or about 5 pounds chicken thighs
2 yellow onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced (optional)
6 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (fresh or canned)
1 cup dry red wine
½ cup water
Pinch of sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cloves
2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano (optional)
Fresh lemon juice or vinegar, if needed to cut the richness
Cut the eggplants into 2-inch pieces, put the pieces in a colander in the sink or over a bowl, sprinkle with salt, and let drain for 30 minutes. (Salted eggplant will absorb less oil during frying.) Rinse well and squeeze dry. Warm 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. In batches, add the eggplant pieces and fry, turning the pieces and adding more oil as needed, until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.
Select a large, heavy sauté pan large enough to hold the chicken and eggplant, place over medium heat, and add ¼ cup oil. While the oil is heating, sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In batches, add the chicken pieces to the hot oil and fry, turning as needed, until golden on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the onions to the oil remaining in the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and pale gold, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes, wine, water, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and oregano and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes soften, about 5 minutes. Return the chicken to the pan, turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes. Add the eggplant pieces, re-cover, and cook until the chicken is tender, 15 to 20 minutes longer.
Taste the sauce, adjust with a bit of lemon juice if needed to cut the richness, and then season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
OKRA VARIATION:
Substitute 2 pounds okra in place of the eggplant and omit the frying step. With a towel, rub the fuzz off of the okra pods. Carefully cut away the stem without cutting into the pod, then place the pods in a bowl. Add 1 cup distilled white vinegar and set aside for 30 minutes. Just before cooking, drain the okra and rinse well. This vinegar bath removes the viscous nature of cooked okra. Proceed as directed, adding the okra to the pan after the chicken has cooked for 20 minutes and then cooking the okra and chicken until tender, 15 to 20 minutes longer.
Chicken with Eggplant PuréePİLİÇLİ PATLICAN
Hünkar beğendi is a classic Turkish dish of roasted eggplant purée enriched with a creamy béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. In the non-kosher kitchen, this rich purée is often spread on a platter surrounded by meat or poultry cooked in tomato sauce. Esin Eden’s recipe for piliçli patlıcan in A Family Cookbook shows how to add richness to the eggplant purée without the dairy. She incorporates the braising juices from the chicken with the roasted eggplant, adding body and concentrated flavors while staying kosher. This same eggplant purée can be served surrounded by little meatballs (lamb or chicken) that have been braised in tomato sauce.SERVES 4
3 large globe eggplants
3 lemons
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 fryer chicken, 3½ to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, grated or finely chopped
3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 cup water or chicken broth
4 or 5 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
4 to 6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Roast the eggplants as directed in Master Recipe for Roasted Eggplant (page 27). After removing the seed pockets, it is traditional to drop the pulp into a bowl of water to which you have added the juice of 1 lemon to keep the pulp white. Let stand for 15 minutes, then drain well and squeeze dry. Or simply squeeze the juice of the lemon over the pulp to keep it white. Using a fork, mash the pulp to a thick purée. Do not use a food processor as you want some texture here.
While the eggplants are roasting, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. While the oil is heating, sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In batches if necessary, add the chicken pieces to the hot oil and fry, turning as needed, until golden on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the same pan and place over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and pale gold, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the tomatoes, the juice of the remaining 2 lemons, and the water, return the chicken to the pan, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
Transfer the chicken to a platter and keep warm. Add the eggplant purée and the garlic to the pan juices and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If the mixture seems dry, add a few tablespoons water.
To serve, spoon the eggplant purée onto a serving platter. Surround with the chicken and top generously with parsley.
Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Eggplant and Onion ConfitESTOFADO
Estofado is a very old Maghrebi dish in which chicken is combined with a twice-cooked sweetened eggplant and onion compote. This recipe comes from Saveurs de mon enfance and is a specialty of Tangier and Tétouan. Estofado is never going to win any food beauty contests. The finished dish is a rather homely dark brown, but its amazing flavor more than makes up for its plain looks. It is served to break the Yom Kippur fast. The slow cooking renders the sauce rich and creamy and keeps the chicken moist. The dish is fully assembled and reheated slowly in the oven, to be served when the family returns from temple.SERVES 4
2 to 3 pounds globe eggplants, cut crosswise into slices about ⅓ inch thick
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil for frying
1 fryer chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into 8 serving pieces, or 8 chicken thighs
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 pounds yellow onions, chopped
½ cup sugar
½ cup water
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a rack and place in a large roasting pan.
Put the eggplant slices in a colander in the sink or over a bowl, sprinkle with salt, let drain for 30 minutes, and then pat dry. (Salted eggplant will absorb less oil during frying.) Warm 3 to 4 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. In batches, add the eggplant slices and fry, turning the slices and adding more oil as needed, until golden. Transfer to paper towels to drain.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt, pepper, and the cinnamon. Arrange the pieces on the oiled rack in the roasting pan, place in the oven, and roast until the chicken is almost done, about 25 minutes.
Warm ½ cup oil in a large sauté pan over low heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with the sugar, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the onions are golden and caramelized. This should take about 20 minutes.
When the chicken is ready, remove it from the oven and turn down the oven to 300°F. In a deep baking dish or Dutch oven, make a layer of one-third of the onion confit and top with one-third of the eggplant. Repeat the eggplant and onion layers twice. Arrange the chicken pieces on top, then pour in the water. Cover and bake until the chicken is tender and the flavors have married, 45 to 60 minutes.
Remove from the oven and skim off and discard any excess oil from the surface. Arrange the chicken on a platter and top with the eggplant and onion.
Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Sweet Tomato JamTAGINE DJEJ MATISHA MESLA
This is an especially rich and delicious dish. The tomatoes cook down to a slightly caramelized thick purée, and their sweetness is heightened by the addition of honey and cinnamon. If you prefer to use bone-in thighs or breasts, rather than a cut-up whole chicken, brown them, add a little broth, cover, and cook until the chicken is almost done, and then add the seasoned tomato mixture and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes longer. Serve this tagine with couscous or rice. For a vegetable accompaniment, consider zucchini or Swiss chard. Broiled eggplant also harmonizes with the sweet and hot flavors.SERVES 4
Olive oil for frying
1 fryer chicken, about 3 pounds, cut into 8 serving pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 yellow onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1½ cups water or chicken broth
1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes, puréed in a food processor
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¼ cup dark honey
3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, or ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted
Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (optional)
Warm about 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy sauté pan over high heat. When the oil is hot, in batches, add the chicken and fry, turning as needed and sprinkling with salt and pepper as you go, until golden on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate as it is ready.
Combine the chicken, onion, garlic, saffron, ginger, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, and the water in a stew pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the puréed tomatoes, tomato paste, and a little salt and simmer uncovered, turning the chicken pieces often in the sauce, until the chicken is tender, about 15 minutes longer.
Transfer the chicken to a platter and keep warm. Raise the heat to high and reduce the sauce, stirring often to prevent scorching, until it is thick and the oil starts to rise to the surface. Add the honey and the remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and cook for a few minutes. Return the chicken to the sauce, turn to coat, and reheat gently. Transfer the chicken and sauce to a platter, sprinkle with the sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve.
Turkey Scallops with Parsley and OnionSCALOPPINE DI TACCHINO DI REBECCA
This dish is named after Rebecca, the ubiquitous Jewish housewife. Economical and low-fat sliced turkey breast and boneless chicken breasts have become the alternative to the more costly veal scaloppine. This authentic Italian turkey scaloppine was way ahead of the trend. A similar dish made with veal is also named after Rebecca.SERVES 3 OR 4
1 pound boneless turkey breast, sliced ⅔ inch thick, or boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
All-purpose flour for coating
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons chopped green onions, including green tops
Juice of 1 lemon
One at a time, place the turkey slices or chicken breasts between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and pound to a uniform thickness of about ⅓ inch. Do not pound them too thinly or the meat will tear. Spread some flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper. One at a time, dip the pounded slices in the seasoned flour, coating both sides and tapping off the excess.
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and sauté, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about 6 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and keep warm.
Add the wine to the pan over medium-high heat and let it reduce a bit, scraping up any brown bits on the pan bottom. Add the parsley, green onions, and lemon juice and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to let the flavors blend. Pour the sauce over the scallops and serve at once.
Cooked Chicken on a Bed of Pita BreadMUSAKHAN
This dish has Palestinian and Arabic roots. It resembles fatteh, a dish popular in Lebanon and elsewhere in the Levant, though without the yogurt that traditionally accompanies it. This is a great recipe if you have leftover roast chicken—or even roast turkey after Thanksgiving. You can use any type of flatbread in place of the pita, including naan. Although yogurt is not permitted because of kosher laws, you can drizzle the finished dish with tahini sauce (page 112) just before serving.SERVES 4
½ cup olive oil
4 large yellow or red onions, chopped or sliced
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
2 to 4 tablespoons ground sumac
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
4 pita breads, or enough naan or lavash to line a large sheet pan
About 6 cups torn cooked chicken meat, in about 2-inch pieces (from a 4- to 5-pound roasted or boiled chicken)
½ cup chicken broth
Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over low heat. Add the onions, season with the allspice, cardamom, 2 tablespoons of the sumac, and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and melting. This will take at least 30 minutes. Stir in half of the pine nuts and more sumac to taste. (The onions can be prepared a day in advance, covered, and refrigerated.)
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Divide the onion mixture in half. Oil a large sheet pan or baking pan and arrange the pita rounds in a single layer on the prepared pan. Top the breads with half of the onion mixture. Cover the onion mixture evenly with the chicken, then cover the chicken with the remaining onion mixture. Drizzle with the broth. If the onions and chicken are cold when you assemble the dish, cover it with foil and bake for 20 minutes to heat through, then remove the foil so the dish can brown. If the onions and chicken are not cold, bake uncovered until the chicken is heated through and onions are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Top with the remaining pine nuts. Serve hot.
VARIATION:
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Tear the bread into small pieces and use two-thirds of it to line the bottom of the oiled sheet pan. Top with half of the onion mixture, followed by the chicken, and then the remaining onion mixture. Scatter the remaining torn bread evenly over the top and drizzle with olive oil. Bake uncovered until crusty and golden, about 30 minutes. If the bread on top darkens too much before everything is heated through, cover the pan with foil.
Chicken MeatballsKEFTAS DE GAYNA
Although many people think of meatballs as being made only with meat, Sephardic Jews are equally enamored of chicken “meatballs.” In Italy, chicken balls made with matzo meal instead of bread are added to chicken broth for Passover. The Turkish touch in this recipe from La table juive is the ground almonds, which add a fragrant sweetness to the mild chicken. I like to play up this little exoticism by adding a pinch or two of cinnamon or nutmeg. Nicholas Stavroulakis adds 8 ounces ground beef to the chicken in a Greek Sephardic recipe called keftikes de poyo. Serve the meatballs with rice.SERVES 4
MEATBALLS
1 pound ground chicken (breast or thigh meat)
1 cup blanched almonds, ground
1 small slice coarse country bread, crust removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry, to yield about ¼ cup crumbs (or ¼ cup matzo meal for Passover)
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
2 to 3 cups chicken broth
2 eggs
Juice of 2 lemons
4 to 6 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or flat-leaf parsley
To make the meatballs, in a bowl, combine the chicken, almonds, bread, egg, salt, pepper, and cinnamon and mix well with your hands.
Bring the broth to a boil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Turn down the heat until the broth is at a simmer. Form a 1-inch ball of the chicken mixture, add to the broth, and cook through, then taste and adjust the seasoning of the remaining mixture if needed. Form the mixture into 1-inch balls, add to the simmering broth, cover, and poach until cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes.
In a bowl, beat together the eggs and lemon juice until very frothy. Gradually whisk about ½ cup of the hot broth into the eggs to temper them. Pour the egg mixture into the pan, stir well, and simmer over very low heat for 1 to 2 minutes to thicken. Serve hot, sprinkled with the dill.
VARIATION:
Chicken Meatballs with Braised Garlic after Suzy David (Albóndigas kon Ajo): Make the meatballs as directed, omitting the almonds and adding 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill. Peel the cloves from 1 large head garlic. In a wide saucepan, bring to a simmer only 1 cup chicken broth (or water) over medium heat, add the garlic cloves, and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the meatballs, turn down the heat to low, and simmer until the meatballs are cooked through, about 20 minutes. Omit the egg–lemon juice addition. Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill and the juice of 1 lemon to the pan and heat through. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
The Bride’s Chicken MeatballsDAR LAARCH
In Tunisia, Daisy Taieb’s family served chicken meatballs perfumed with dried rose petals to break the fast after Yom Kippur. These meatballs, also known as boulettes au poulet dites la mariée, can be a wonderful weeknight supper. You can even make them a day in advance and reheat them gently. Breast meat is traditional for the balls, but you can use thigh meat. If you cannot find dried rose petals, the chicken balls will still be delicious. Serve with couscous or rice.SERVES 6 TO 8
MEATBALLS
2 pounds ground chicken (breast or thigh meat)
2 large yellow onions, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 slices coarse country bread, each 1 inch thick, crusts removed, soaked in water, and squeezed dry
3 to 4 teaspoons crushed dried rose petals (optional)
Big pinch of ground turmeric or saffron threads
Freshly grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
SAUCE
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (about 2 cups; canned tomatoes are acceptable)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon ground turmeric, or ¼ teaspoon saffron threads
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the meatballs, in a large bowl, combine the chicken, onions, parsley, cilantro, garlic, bread, rose petals, turmeric, lots of nutmeg, salt, pepper, and eggs and knead with your hands until the mixture holds together. Shape a small egg-shaped meatball of the mixture, poach it in lightly salted water until cooked through, then taste and adjust the seasoning of the remaining mixture if needed. Shape the mixture into egg-shaped meatballs about 2 inches long and reserve.
To make the sauce, warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes, garlic, bay leaf, turmeric, and water to a depth of about 2 inches and cook for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the meatballs, turn down the heat to low, cover, and poach until cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes. If you would like the meatballs to have a little color, you can slip them under a preheated broiler or into a hot oven (make sure the pan is oven-safe). Serve hot.
Chicken Fricassee with Chicken MeatballsPOLLO CON POLPETTE E SEDANO
When I was growing up in New York, chicken fricassee with little beef meatballs was part of the cooking repertory of many Jewish families. You can imagine my surprise when I found this recipe in Donatella Limentani Pavoncello’s charming Roman Jewish cookbook, Dal 1880 ad oggi: La cucina ebraica della mia famiglia. It’s an Italian fricassee of chicken called ngozzamodi di pollo con polpette (the ngozzamodi refer to bone-in chicken pieces; ozza means “bone”), but the meatballs (polpette) are made with ground chicken. For economy, many versions of this recipe omit the chicken pieces and use chicken balls. You can even use ground turkey in place of the ground chicken. Celery is a favorite vegetable of the Romans, and I’ve increased it a bit from the original recipe. Serve the chicken and meatballs with rice or olive oil mashed potatoes and peas.SERVES 4 TO 6
MEATBALLS
1 pound ground chicken breast meat
½ to ¾ cup fresh bread crumbs, or as needed to bind, soaked in ½ cup dry white wine
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Chicken broth, as needed
6 to 8 tablespoons olive oil, or as needed
1 broiler chicken, 2½ pounds, cut into 8 serving pieces, or 6 chicken thighs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 yellow onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large head celery, ribs separated and cut into 2-inch lengths
2 to 3 cups peeled, seeded, and diced ripe tomatoes
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
To make the meatballs, in a bowl, combine the chicken, bread crumbs and wine, eggs, cinnamon, salt, and pepper and mix gently but thoroughly. Shape a single marble-size meatball of the mixture, poach it in a little broth until cooked through, then taste and adjust the seasoning of the remaining mixture if needed. Shape the mixture into marble-size balls and refrigerate until needed.
Pour the oil to a depth of ¼ inch into a wide, deep sauté pan or Dutch oven and place over high heat. While the oil is heating, season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add the chicken pieces to the hot oil and fry, turning as needed, until browned on all sides. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the onions to the fat remaining in the pan, turn down the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, celery, and tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the browned chicken, cover, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.
Carefully distribute the chicken meatballs among the chicken pieces, pushing them down into the pan juices. Add a little broth if the chicken has not given off enough liquid for poaching the meatballs. Re-cover the pan and poach until the chicken balls are cooked through and the chicken is tender, about 15 minutes. Taste the pan juices and adjust the seasoning if needed.
Transfer the chicken pieces, meatballs, celery, and pan juices to a deep platter and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve at once.
VARIATION:
With Egg and Lemon Juice: Omit the tomatoes and finish the dish with eggs and lemon juice (see Chicken Meatballs, page 287).
Chicken Meat LoafPOLPETTONE DI POLLO
This is not exactly a meat loaf. It more closely resembles a giant chicken burger but is served chilled. Some recipes add ground veal to the chicken or use turkey instead of chicken. Another variation stuffs the mixture into a turkey-neck skin. In La cucina nella tradizione ebraica, hard-boiled eggs and chopped pistachios are added to the ground chicken mixture, which is stuffed into a boned chicken and then poached in the manner of a galantine. In yet another version, a turkey is deboned and stuffed in the same manner. These are a lot more work and are obviously holiday fare.
Here is my simple everyday version, based on a recipe from Donatella Limentani Pavoncello. She doesn’t have pistachios in her version, but they add wonderful texture and another dimension of flavor to what is a rather bland dish. Be sure to test for seasoning by poaching a little of the chicken mixture in simmering water. Any leftover polpettone makes a great sandwich with a little lemony mayonnaise and lettuce.SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound ground chicken (breast or thigh meat)
¾ cup fresh bread crumbs, or as needed to bind
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon white or black pepper, preferably freshly ground
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg
¼ cup chopped toasted pistachio nuts (optional)
Olive oil for browning
½ cup dry white wine or Marsala
3 small carrots, peeled and chopped
About 6 cups chicken broth or water, heated
Mayonnaise (page 231), flavored with grated lemon zest and capers or herbs, for serving
In a large bowl, combine the chicken, bread crumbs, eggs, salt, pepper, cinnamon, and pistachios and mix gently but thoroughly. Pinch off a small nugget of the mixture, poach in simmering water until cooked through, and taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Shape the mixture into a single longish loaf or into 2 or 3 small loaf-like patties.
It’s a bit tricky to brown the large loaf, but it can be done using wide fish spatulas to turn it. The smaller loaves are easier to work with. Film a large, heavy sauté pan with oil and place over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the single loaf and turn as needed to brown on all sides, shaking the pan from time to time to prevent sticking. If you have made the smaller loaf-like patties, turn them once to brown on both sides. Set the loaf or patties aside on a platter. Pour the wine into the pan and deglaze it, scraping up any brown bits on the pan bottom. Return the loaf or patties to the pan and add the carrots and the broth to cover. Bring to a simmer, cover, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the chicken is tender, glazed, and golden, about 30 minutes.
Remove from the heat, transfer to a platter, and let cool; then cover and refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours. To serve, cut the chilled loaf or patties into thin slices. Serve with the mayonnaise.