I love making this recipe . . . and serving it with a sparkling dessert wine.
SKILL LEVEL Advanced
TIME 2 hours 30 minutes one day before; 1 hour 30 minutes the day of
YIELD 6 tarts
TIMELINE
ONE DAY BEFORE Make ganache, soft caramel, tart shells, and chocolate caviar
THE DAY OF Bake tart shells; make Chantilly cream; assemble
SPECIAL TOOLS
Medium sieve
Instant-read or candy thermometer
Stand mixer with paddle and whisk attachments
3-inch (7.5 cm) ring cutter (optional)
Six 3-inch (9.5 cm) tart rings
Large bowl, at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep
Precision gram scale (optional)
Plastic bottle with drip tip
2 uncut piping bags
Small offset spatula
2 5/8-inch (6.9 cm) ring cutter
INGREDIENTS
WHIPPED COFFEE GANACHE
Gelatin sheet (160 bloom)1 |
1/2 each |
1/2 each |
Coffee beans |
1/4 cup |
17 grams |
Heavy cream |
3/4 cup, plus more as needed |
190 grams, plus more as needed |
White chocolate chips |
1/4 cup |
42 grams |
Soft caramel (page 121) |
2 batches |
2 batches |
CHOCOLATE SABLÉ TART SHELL
CHOCOLATE CAVIAR
Grapeseed oil (for forming the chocolate caviar) |
7 1/2 cups |
1.5 kilograms |
Gelatin sheet (160 bloom)1 |
3 1/2 each |
3 1/2 each |
Whole milk |
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon |
132 grams |
Heavy cream |
1/4 cup |
58 grams |
Granulated sugar |
1/4 cup |
51 grams |
Powdered agar |
3/4 teaspoon |
2 grams |
Cocoa paste, finely chopped |
3 tablespoons |
25 grams |
Black food coloring, gel |
1 teaspoon or as needed |
2 grams or as needed |
VANILLA CHANTILLY CREAM
Heavy cream |
1 cup |
240 grams |
Granulated sugar |
2 tablespoons |
20 grams |
Vanilla bean (preferably Tahitian), split lengthwise, seeds scraped |
1/2 each |
1/2 each |
Gold leaf (optional) |
2 sheets |
2 sheets |
MAKE GANACHE
1. Soak the gelatin sheets in a bowl of ice water until soft, about 20 minutes. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 2 teaspoons (6 grams) gelatin over 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water in a small bowl, stir, and let sit 20 minutes to bloom.
2. Place the coffee beans in a heavy resealable plastic bag. Using a rolling pin, gently crush the beans.
3. Bring the heavy cream to a boil in a small pot. Remove from the heat and add the crushed coffee beans. Cover the pot with plastic wrap and set it aside to infuse for 15 minutes.
4. Strain the infused cream through a medium sieve into a measuring cup. Add more heavy cream to return it to the original amount. Return the cream to the small pot and bring to a boil again over medium heat. Discard coffee beans.
5. Remove the cream from the heat. If using a gelatin sheet, squeeze out any excess water. Whisk the bloomed gelatin into the hot cream until the gelatin is dissolved.
6. Place the white chocolate chips in a small heatproof bowl. Pour the hot cream over the chips and let stand for 30 seconds.
7. Whisk the chips and cream until homogeneous and smooth. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the ganache, to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to set.
MAKE SOFT CARAMEL
Make the soft caramel, page 121.
MAKE TART SHELLS
1. Cream the butter and confectioners’ sugar on low speed in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle until combined, about 30 seconds. Add the egg and continue to beat until fully blended. Stop the mixer and using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue to mix until smooth.
2. Combine the cocoa powder, all-purpose flour, salt, and almond flour in a medium bowl. Slowly add them to the butter mixture, continuing to mix on low speed until just combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and make sure to reach all the way to the bottom, where the dry ingredients may have settled. Mix for 10 seconds more.
3. Using a rubber spatula, remove the dough from the mixer. Form into a flat disk about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick on a sheet of plastic wrap. Wrap well and refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up.
4. Place the dough on a floured work surface and roll into a rectangle about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Cut the dough with the ring cutter into rounds about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) larger than the diameter of the tart rings and place on a sheet of parchment paper on a sheet pan. Do not stack them. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and return the dough to the refrigerator.
MAKE CHOCOLATE CAVIAR
1. Pour the grapeseed oil into a bowl that is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. This is important, as the caviar droplets must have enough time to set before settling at the bottom of the bowl. Place the bowl of oil in the freezer for 3 hours before making the chocolate caviar.
2. Soak the gelatin sheets in a bowl of ice water until soft, about 20 minutes. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 2 teaspoons (6 grams) gelatin over 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water in a small bowl, stir, and let sit 20 minutes to bloom.
3. Combine the milk and cream in a small pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Combine the granulated sugar and agar and slowly whisk into the boiling milk. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 4 minutes.3
4. Remove the milk from the heat. If using gelatin sheets, squeeze out any excess water. Whisk the bloomed gelatin into the hot milk until the gelatin is dissolved. Add the cocoa paste and whisk until smooth. Add black food coloring and mix until the chocolate gelée reaches a homogeneous dark color. Set aside to cool until it reaches between 113° and 122°F (45° and 50°C).4
5. Transfer the chocolate gelée to a plastic bottle with a drip tip.
6. Remove the grapeseed oil from the freezer. Hold the bottle 10 inches (26 cm) above the oil and using a back-and-forth motion, slowly drip the chocolate gelée into the cold oil. As the gelée hits the oil, it will sink and set in a matter of seconds. Since water and oil don’t mix, it will form perfect little droplets.5
7. When all the gelée has been piped into the oil, drain the chocolate caviar in a sieve. Rinse off any extra oil with cold running water. Drain well and transfer to a small container. Refrigerate the chocolate caviar until needed.
BAKE TART SHELLS
1. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and place the tart rings on the pan. Remove the chocolate sablé circles from the refrigerator. One at a time, slightly warm the dough by pressing it between your hands. The dough needs to be pliable so that it can be pressed into the tart rings without breaking.
2. Center the circle on top of a tart ring, then slowly push the dough toward the bottom, working your way around the inside of the ring as you go. The dough should fill the tart ring and leave an excess of dough around the edge. Use a paring knife to trim this excess. Return the shells to the refrigerator to chill for 5 minutes.
3. While the shells are chilling, place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) for conventional or 350°F (175°C) for convection.
4. Bake the tart shells on the center rack for 8 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and bake for 8 minutes more or until dry throughout.6
5. Remove the tart shells from the oven and unmold while still warm. Let cool completely. Reserve in an airtight container until you’re ready to fill them.
MAKE CHANTILLY CREAM
Combine the heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds in a stand mixer fitted with a whisk. Whip until cream triples in volume and holds a medium peak. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
1. Transfer the ganache to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk. Whip on high speed until it holds stiff peaks.
2. Using a rubber spatula, place 2 large scoops of ganache into a piping bag so that it is one-third full. Push the ganache down toward the tip of the bag.
3. Fill another piping bag with the soft caramel. Cut an opening about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) wide straight across the tip of the bag. Fill the tart shells one-third full with the caramel.
4. Cut an opening about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) wide straight across the tip of the piping bag filled with coffee ganache. Pipe the ganache on top of the caramel until it reaches the top rim of the shell. Use a small offset spatula to level the ganache to the height of the tart shell.
5. For a cleaner finish, place a ring cutter the same diameter as the tart shell on top of a shell to act as a mold for the chocolate caviar. Place a spoonful or two of the chocolate caviar on top of the coffee ganache. Gently spread the chocolate caviar to cover the ganache in a thin, even layer. Remove the mold. Continue with the remaining tarts.
6. Remove the Chantilly cream from the refrigerator. Make a quenelle: Warm a small spoon with hot water. Tap it to dry. Drag the spoon through the Chantilly cream until it is filled. Turn the spoon 180 degrees and pull up immediately to make a scoop that is rounded on one end with a narrow tip on the other. Place the quenelle of cream on top of the tart immediately.7
1. If you can’t find gelatin sheets, use powdered gelatin. One gelatin sheet = 1 scant teaspoon (2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
3. When using agar, it is very important to be accurate with measurements. I highly suggest using a precision gram scale.
4. This temperature will ensure that the gelée sets quickly when it hits the grapeseed oil and isn’t too runny.
5. Try dripping across the entire surface area of the oil, which will give the caviar a chance to set without sticking together.
6. When checking to see if the chocolate shells are baked, rely on the feel of the dough rather than the color.
7. If you are not confident when it comes to making quenelles, simply place a dollop of vanilla Chantilly cream on the top of the tart for a rustic look. Or use a piping bag to pipe the cream in small teardrops.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Let the tart sit out for 5 minutes to temper before serving. For special occasions, place a small piece of gold leaf on top of the chocolate caviar.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The tart should be consumed within 24 hours of making. Leftover caramel can be kept in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Leftover whipped ganache can be kept in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 day. Leftover chocolate caviar can be kept in a closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and is fun to eat—for example, mixed into iced coffee.