WELCOME TO CYCLADES
TOP REASONS TO GO
Santorini: Volcanic, spectacular Santorini is possibly the last remnant of the “lost continent”—the living here is as high as the towns’ cliff-top perches.
Naxos: Mythic haunt of the ancient Minoan princess Ariadne, Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades and is noted for its 16th-century Venetian homes.
Mykonos: The rich arrive by yacht, the middle class by plane, the backpackers by boat—but everyone is out to enjoy the golden sands and Dionysian nightlife.
Paros: The seaside villages of Paros, with their daytime charm and nighttime buzz, are among the most atmospheric in the Cyclades.
Antiparos: Hiding within the shadow of its mother island of Paros, this long-forgotten jewel has been discovered by Hollywood high-rollers like Tom Hanks and Brad Pitt.
Nearly 2,000 islands and islets are scattered like a ring (Cyclades is the Greek word for “circling ones”) around the sacred isle of Delos, birthplace of the god Apollo, including many of Greece’s top tourist destinations. Gateways include the airports on Mykonos and Santorini and the harbors of Paros and Naxos.
Tinos. Among the most beautiful of theT Cyclades, Tinos’s charms remain largely unheralded but include the “Greek Lourdes”—the Panayia Evangelistria church—1,300 traditional stone dovecotes, and idyllic villages like Pirgos.
Mykonos. Party central because of its nonstop nightlife, the chief village of Mykonos, called Mykonos Town, is the Cyclades’ best preserved—a maze of flat-stone streets lined with white houses and flower-filled balconies.
Delos. A short boat ride away from Mykonos is hallowed Delos, sacred to Apollo and now a vast archaeological site.
Paros. West of Naxos and known for its fine beaches and fishing villages, as well as the pretty town of Naousa, Paros often takes the summer overflow crowd from Mykonos. Today, crowds head here for Paros Town and its Hundred Doors Church and undeveloped beaches.
Naxos. Presided over by the historic castle of Naxos Town, largely the creation of the Venetian dukes of the archipelago, Naxos has a landscape graced with time-stained villages like Sangri, Chalki, and Apeiranthos, many with Venetian-era towers.
Folegandros. Tides of travelers have yet to discover this stark island, which makes it all the more alluring to Cyclades lovers, particularly those who prize its stunning cliff scenery.
Santorini. Once the vast crater of a volcano, Santorini’s spectacular bay is ringed by black-and-red cliffs, which rise up 1,000 feet over the sea. The main towns of Fira and Ia cling inside the rim in dazzling white contrast to the somber cliffs. South lies the “Greek Pompeii” that is ancient Akrotiri.
Updated by Marissa Tejada
If the span Greek islands suggest blazing sun and sea, bare rock and mountains, olive trees and vineyards, white rustic architecture and ancient ruins, fresh fish, and fruity oils, the Cyclades are your isles of quintessential plenty, the ultimate Mediterranean archipelago.
“The islands with their drinkable blue volcanoes,” wrote Odysseus Elytis, winner of the Nobel Prize for poetry, musing on Santorini. The major stars in this constellation of islands in the central Aegean sea—Tinos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, and Santorini—remain the archetypes of the islands of Greece. No matter which of these islands you head for, it always seems, at least in summer, that Zeus’s sky is faultlessly azure, Poseidon’s sea warm, and Dionysus’s nightlife buzzing (especially in Mykonos’s clubs). The prevailing wind is the northern vorias; called meltemi in summer, it cools the always-sunny weather. In a blazing fusion of sunlight, stone, and aqua sparkle, the Cyclades offer both culture and hedonism: ancient sites, Byzantine castles and museums, lively nightlife, shopping, dining, and beaches plain and fancy.
Each island in the Cyclades differs significantly from its neighbors, so approach your exploration according to what sort of experience you seek. The most popular islands are Santorini, with its fantastic volcanic scenery and dramatic cliff-side towns of Fira and Ia, and Mykonos, a barren island that insinuates a sexy jet-set lifestyle, flaunts some of Greece’s most famous beaches, has a perfectly preserved main town, and courts celebrities. These two islands have the fanciest accommodations. Naxos has the best mountain scenery and the longest, most pristine beaches. Tinos, the least visited and most scenic of the Cyclades, is the place to explore mountain villages, hundreds of churches, and fancifully decorated dovecotes. Throughout the Cyclades, many shuttered houses are being authentically restored, and much traditional architecture can still be found in Ia on Santorini and Apeiranthos on Naxos—villages that are part of any deep experience of the islands.
These arid, mountainous islands are the peaks of a deep, submerged plateau; their composition is rocky, with few trees. They are volcanic in origin, and Santorini, southernmost of the group, actually sits on the rim of an ancient drowned volcano that exploded about 1600 BC. The dead texture of its rock is a great contrast to the living, warm limestone of most Greek islands. Santorini’s basic geological colors—black, pink, brown, white, pale green—are not in themselves beautiful; as you arrive by boat, little shows above the cliff tops but a string of white villages—like teeth on the vast lower jaw of some giant monster. Still, the island was once called Kllisti, “Loveliest,” and today appreciative visitors seek its mixture of vaulted cliff-side architecture, European elegance, and stunning sunsets.
A more-idyllic rhythm prevails on many of the other Cyclades (and, of course, off-season in Santorini). In the town of Mykonos, the whitewashed houses huddle together against the meltemi winds, and backpackers rub elbows with millionaires in the mazelike gray-stone streets. The island’s sophistication level is high, the beaches fine, and the shopping varied and upscale. It’s also the jumping-off place for a mandatory visit to tiny, deserted Delos. Apollo’s windswept birth islet, still watched over by a row of marble lions, was once the religious and commercial center of the eastern Mediterranean.
Tinos has stayed authentically Greek, since its heavy tourism is largely owing to its miracle-working icon, not to its beautiful villages. Naxos, greenest of the Cyclades, makes cheese and wine, raises livestock, and produces potatoes, olives, and fruit. For centuries a Venetian stronghold, it has a shrinking aristocratic Roman Catholic population, Venetian houses and fortifications, and Cycladic and Mycenaean sites. Paros, a hub of the ferry system, has reasonable prices and is a good base for trips to other islands. It’s also good for lazing on white-sand beaches and for visiting fishing villages.
Of course, throughout the Cyclades, there are countless classical sites, monasteries, churches, and villages to be explored. The best reason to visit them may be the beauty of the walk, the impressiveness of the location, and the hospitality you will likely find off the beaten track.
PLANNING
WHEN TO GO
The experience of the Cyclades is radically different in summer compared to winter. In summer all services are operating on overload, the beaches are crowded, the clubs noisy, the restaurants packed, and the scene hopping. Walkers, nature lovers, and devotees of classical and Byzantine Greece would do better to come in spring and fall, ideally in late April–June or September–October, when temperatures are lower and tourists are fewer. But off-season travel means less-frequent boat service; in fact, there is sometimes no service at all between November and mid-March, when stormy weather can make the seas too rough for sailing. In winter, many shops, hotels, and restaurants are closed, and the open cafés are full of locals recuperating from summer’s intensity. The villages can feel shuttered and the nightlife evaporates. Cultural organizations, film clubs, concerts of island music, and religious festivals become more important. The temperature will often seem colder than the thermometer indicates: if it is in the low 50s, cloudy, drizzling, and windy, you will feel chilled and want to stay indoors, and these islands are at their best outdoors.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
The Cyclades are more for lazing around than for book-nosed tourism. Start with the livelier islands (Mykonos, Santorini), add one or two of the larger islands (Naxos, Paros), and finish up with an untouristy one like Folegandros. Although it is true that feverish partying can overwhelm the young in summer, in other seasons the temptations are fewer, gentler, and more profound. If you move fast, you will see little, and the beauty is in the general impression of sea, sky, mountain, and village, and in the details that catch your eye: an ancient column used as a building block, an octopus hung to dry in the sun, a wedding or baptism in a small church you stopped by (Welcome, stranger!), a shepherd’s mountain hut with a flagstone roof—they are endless. There are important sites such as Delos’s ruins, but just enjoying the island rhythms often proves as soul-satisfying.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Transportation to the islands is constantly improving. Five of the Cyclades have airports, and high-speed ferry service between Athens and the islands and within the islands seems to increase with each season. But remember that boat schedules depend on Poseidon’s weather whims, and service might be canceled when seas are rough. No matter how you travel, it’s best to buy tickets well in advance of major spring and summer holidays.
AIR TRAVEL
Flight schedules change seasonally and are often revised; reservations are always a good idea. There are no airports on Tinos or Folegandros. Olympic Air has several daily flights to Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, and Santorini, with more in peak season. Aegean Airlines has daily flights to Mykonos and Santorini in summer. Many European airlines offer nonstop flights to both Mykonos and Santorini, and charter flights come from the Middle East and around Europe.
Airport Contacts Mykonos Airport (JMK). 
4 km (2½ miles) southeast of Mykonos Town 
22890/22327 
www.mykonos-airport.org. Naxos Airport (JNX). 
1 km (½ mile) south of Naxos Town 22850/23969. Paros Airport (PAS). Near Alyki village, 9 km (5½ miles) south of Paros Town 22840/92030. Santorini Airport (JTR). On east coast, 6 km (4 miles) from Fira 22860/28400 www.santoriniairport.com.
BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL
Greek boats in general are efficient, stable, fast, and comfortable. Most boats leave from Athens’s port of Piraeus and also from Rafina (accessible by KTEL bus from Athens); a few leave from Lavrio. The larger ferries are more stable, and islanders consider the various Blue Star Ferries their main connection to the mainland. Remember that some fast boats are small, and can roll uncomfortably in high seas. Also, high-speeds have little or no deck space; you are closed in. The Blue Star will give you a seat number for a small extra fee, and the fast boats have reserved seats only. In summer, you should always reserve seats in advance.
At Easter and around August 15, seats are hard to come by, and boat schedules change for the holidays. All ferries run much less frequently in winter, and many fast ferries don’t run at all.
Seajets offers a comfy fast-boat connection between the two most popular islands in the Cyclades: Santorini and Mykonos.
Off-season you don’t need reservations, and you can purchase tickets just before departure at offices on the dock in Piraeus. Ferries can be canceled owing to gales, and then schedules go haywire and hundreds of people and cars have to fight for new tickets (in effect, the ferry companies never cancel boats; the harbor police decide, according to international regulations).
For schedules (not too far in advance, please), check www.openseas.gr or www.gtp.gr.
Contacts Blue Star Ferries. 21089/19800 www.bluestarferries.com. Piraeus boat departures/arrivals. 14541, 14944. Piraeus Port Authority. Akti Miaouli 10, Piraeus 21045/50000 www.olp.gr. Rafina KTEL Buses. 22940/23440 bus terminal www.ktelattikis.gr. Seajets. 21041/21001, 21041/21901 www.seajets.gr.
BUS TRAVEL
For information about Bus Travel, consult the Getting Here and Around sections listed under each island.
CAR AND SCOOTER TRAVEL
To take cars on ferries, you must make reservations. Though there is bus service on all islands, you may find it more convenient to travel by car, especially on a larger island like Naxos. Although islanders tend to acknowledge rules, many roads on the islands are poorly maintained, and tourists sometimes lapse into vacation inattentiveness. Drive with caution, especially at night, when you may well be sharing the roads with motorists returning from an evening of drinking. All the major islands have car- and bike-rental agencies at the ports and in the business districts. Car rentals in summer cost about €40–€80 per day, with unlimited mileage and third-party liability insurance. Full insurance costs about €15 per day more. Many places now rent Smart Cars for about €60 a day: these two-seaters are a cool way to get around.
Often travelers opt for scooters or four-wheel semi-bikes (quads), but be careful—island hospitals get filled with people with serious-looking injuries due to poor roads, slipshod maintenance, careless drivers, and excessive partying. Quads, which Greeks call gourounia (piggies), look safer than scooters but in fact turn over easily. Choose a dealer that offers 24-hour service and a change of vehicle in case of a breakdown. Most will take you from and to your plane or boat.
FOOT TRAVEL
The Cyclades are justly famous for their hiking. Ancient goat and donkey trails go everywhere—through fields, over mountains, along untrodden coasts. Since tourists crowd beaches, clubs, and town promenades, walking is uncrowded even in July and August. Prime walking months, though, are April and May, when temperatures are reasonable, wildflowers seem to cover every surface, and birds migrate. October is also excellent for hiking—plus, olive groves provide their own sort of spectacle when dozens of gatherers spread their cloths.
HOTELS
Overall, the quality of accommodations in the Cyclades is high, whether they be tiny pensions, private houses, or luxury hotels. The best rooms and service (and noticeably higher prices) are on Mykonos and Santorini, where luxury resort hotels now rank among the world’s favorites. Wherever you stay in the Cyclades, make a room with a view and a balcony a priority. If you’re not interested in staying at luxury hotels and unless you’re traveling at the very height of the season (July 15–August 30), you’re unlikely to need advance reservations on some islands. Sometimes the easiest way to find something, in fact, is to head for a tourist office and describe your needs and price range. And remember: few hotels have elevators, and even Santorini’s best often have breathlessly picturesque cliff-side staircases (though most have porters to carry your bags).
RESTAURANTS
Eating is a lively social activity in the Cyclades, and the friendliness of most taverna owners compensates for the lack of formal service. Unless you order intermittently, the food comes all at once. Restaurant schedules on the Cyclades vary; some places close for lunch, most close for siesta, and all are open late. Reservations are not required unless otherwise noted, and casual dress is the rule. But luxury restaurants are a different kettle of fish in some respects.
Greek food used to have a bad international reputation, and you can certainly find bad food in Greece. This is often a result of restaurants trying to adapt to the tastes and wallets of the throngs of tourists. Greece produces top-quality tomatoes, lamb chops, melons, olive oil, and farmer’s cheese. When Greeks go out to eat, they expect good, simple food culled from these elements, as should you. Do likewise, and you will dine with much pleasure.
Dishes are often wonderfully redolent of garlic and olive oil; as a simple, plain alternative, order grilled seafood or meat—grilled octopus with ouzo is a treat. A typical island lunch is fresh fried calamari with a salad of tomatoes, peppers, onions, feta, and olives. Lamb on a skewer and keftedes (spicy meatballs) are also favorites. Of course, nouvelle Greek cuisine has made great strides since it was first introduced in the early 2000s at the luxury hotels of the Cyclades. At the finer hotels, and at certain outstanding restaurants, you can taste the collision of centuries-old traditional dishes with newer-than-now-nouvelle spices and preparations. There are just so many times one can eat lamb-on-a-skewer, so go ahead and splurge at top restaurants—if you have a chubby wallet, that is.
Greek wines have tripled in quality in the last decade. The volcanic soil of Santorini is hospitable to the grape, and Greeks love the Santorini wines. Santorini and Paros now proudly produce officially recognized “origin” wines, which are sought throughout Greece. Barrel or farmer’s wine is common, and except in late summer when it starts to taste a bit off, it’s often good.
Restaurant and hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
SHOPPING
Mykonos is the best island in the Cyclades for shopping. You can buy anything from Greek folk items to Italian designer clothes, cowboy boots, and leather jackets from the United States. Although island prices are better than in the expensive shopping districts of Athens, there are many tourist traps in the resort towns, with high-pressure sales tactics and inflated prices for inferior goods. The Greeks have a word for a naive American shopper—Americanaki. It’s a good sign if the owner of a shop selling traditional crafts or art lives on the island and is not a hot shot Athenian over for the summer to make a quick buck. Each island has a unique pottery style that reflects its individuality. Santorini potters like the bright shades of the setting sun, though the best pottery island is Paros. Island specialties are icons hand-painted after Byzantine originals; weavings and embroideries; local wines; and gold worked in ancient and Byzantine designs. Don’t be surprised when the stores close between 2 and 5:30 in the afternoon and reopen in the evenings; even on the chic islands everybody takes a siesta.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Despite their popularity, most of the Cycladic islands do not have tourist offices. Instead, turn to local travel agencies, who can help you book tours, ferry tickets, and accommodations. General brochures and information about the Cyclades are available through the website and offices of the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO; EOT in Greece www.gnto.gr).
TINOS ΤΗΝΟΣ
160 km (85 nautical miles) southeast of Piraeus harbor in Athens.
Tinos (or, as archaeologists spell it, Tenos) is among the most beautiful and most fascinating of the major Cyclades. The third largest of the island group after Naxos and Andros, with an area of 195 square km (121 square miles), it is inhabited by nearly 10,000 people, many of whom still live the traditional life of farmers or craftspeople. Its long, mountainous spine, rearing between Andros and Mykonos, makes it seem forbidding, and in a way it is. It is not popular among tourists for a few reasons: the main village, Tinos Town (Chora), lacks charm; the beaches are undeveloped; there is no airport; and the prevailing north winds are the Aegean’s fiercest (passing mariners used to sacrifice a calf to Poseidon, ancient Tinos’s chief deity, in hopes of avoiding shipwreck). On the other hand, Tinos is dotted with possibly the loveliest villages in the Cyclades.
Whether travelers head to Tinos or not, a visit here is essential for Greeks: its great Church of Panayia Evangelistria is the Greek Lourdes, a holy place of pilgrimage and miraculous cures; 799 other churches adorn the countryside. Encroaching development here is to accommodate those in search of their religious elixir and not, as on the other islands, the beach-and-bar crowd.
Tinos’s magnificently rustic villages are, for some welcome reason, not being abandoned. The dark arcades of Arnados, the vine-shaded sea views of Isternia, the gleaming marble squares of Pirgos: these, finally, are what make Tinos unique. A map, available at kiosks or rental agencies, will make touring these villages by car or bike somewhat less confusing, as there are nearly 50 of them. Of all the major islands, Tinos is the least developed for sports—the strong winds discourage water sports, and sports outfitters come and go.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
In high season many boats stop at Tinos, since it is on the Mykonos line, and consequently it becomes crowded with travelers. But, owing to the famous church, it is also hugely popular with Greeks who arrive on Friday night and leave in time to get to work on Monday. The boats vary from big ferries to fast passengers-only boats, and it takes four to five hours, depending mostly on route and weather. Especially notice, as your boat rounds the point into the harbor, the high peak of Exambourgos with its acropolis and Venetian fort. For August weekends, reservations are recommended. For Easter and August 15 they are absolutely necessary, and the boats will be packed (the many cars in transit don’t help). For these holidays, boat schedules do change; information much in advance is not trustworthy. Tinos has daily ferry connections with Andros, Mykonos, and Paros, less often with Naxos. Returning boats go either to Piraeus or to Rafina. When buying tickets at the quayside agencies, remember that not every office handles every boat, so check at more than one. For any queries or recommendations, contact Georgia, of Tinos Tours. There is a lot of information at www.greeka.com.
On Tinos, buses ( 22830/22440) run several times daily from the quay of Chora (Tinos Town) to nearly all the many villages in Tinos, including Kionia (15 minutes) and Panormos (1 hour); in summer buses are added for beaches. Prices range from €2 to €5 and service stops around 7 pm. The bus depot is near the new dock.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Contacts Tinos Tours. Trion Ierarchon 30, Tinos Town 22830/26011 www.tinostours.net.
TINOS TOWN Τηνος (ΧΩρα)
14 km (9 miles) northwest of Mykonos Town.
Civilization on Tinos is a millennium older than Tinos Town, or Chora, founded in the 5th century BC. On weekends and during festivals, Chora is thronged with Greeks attending church, and restaurants and hotels cater to them. As the well-known story goes, in 1822, a year after the War of Independence began (Tinos was the first of the islands to join in), the Virgin sent the nun Pelagia a dream about a buried icon of the Annunciation. On January 30, 1823, such an icon was unearthed amid the foundations of a Byzantine church, and it started to heal people immediately.
EXPLORING
Archaeological Museum of Tinos. On the main street, near the church, is the small Archaeological Museum; its collection includes a sundial by Andronicus of Cyrrhus, who in the 1st century BC also designed Athens’s Tower of the Winds. Here, too, are Tinos’s famous huge, red storage vases, from the 8th century BC. Megalohari 22830/22670 
€2 
Closed Sat.–Mon.
Cultural Foundation of Tinos. Founded in 2002, the Cultural Foundation of Tinos, housed in a large and splendid neoclassical building at the south end of the quay, remains active in promoting the fantastic art, history, and culture of the island. The center revolves around a full schedule of traveling exhibitions, lectures, performances, and other events. It has a permanent exhibit of work by Tinian sculptor, Iannoulis Chalepas. There’s also a café. Paralia Tinos 22830/29070 www.itip.gr €3 Closed Tues.
Fodor’sChoice
Panayia Evangelistria. The Tinians built the splended Church of the Annunciate Virgin on this site in 1823 to commemorate finding a buried icon of the Annunciation in the foundations of an old Byzantine church that once stood here. Imposing and beautiful, framed in gleaming yellow and white, it stands atop the town’s main hill (“hora”), which is linked to the harbor via Megalochari, a steeply inclined avenue lined with votive shops. Half Venetian, half Cypriot in style, the facade (illuminated at night) has a distinctive two-story arcade and bookend staircases. Lined with the most costly stones from Tinos, Paros, and Delos, the church’s marble courtyards (note the green-veined Tinian stone) are paved with pebble mosaics and surrounded by offices, chapels, a health station, and seven museums. Inside the upper three-aisle church dozens of beeswax candles and precious tin- and silver-work votives—don’t miss the golden orange tree near the door donated by a blind man who was granted sight—dazzle the eye. You must often wait in line to see the little icon, encrusted with jewels, which is said to have curative powers. To beseech the icon’s aid, a sick person sends a young female relative or a mother brings her sick infant. As the pilgrim descends from the boat, she falls to her knees, with traffic indifferently whizzing about her, and crawls painfully up the faded red padded lane on the main street—1 km (½ mile)—to the church. In the church’s courtyards, she and her family camp for several days, praying to the magical icon for a cure, which sometimes comes. This procedure is very similar to the ancient one observed in Tinos’s temple of Poseidon. The lower church, called the Evresis, celebrates the finding of the icon; in one room a baptismal font is filled with silver and gold votives. The chapel to the left commemorates the torpedoing by the Italians, on Dormition Day, 1940, of the Greek ship Helle; in the early stages of the war, the roused Greeks amazingly overpowered the Italians. Evaggelistrias 1 22830/22256 www.panagiatinou.gr.
All over Greece, villages, towns, and cities have traditional celebrations that vary from joyous to deeply serious, and the Cyclades are no exception. In Tinos Town, the healing icon from Panayia Evangelistria church is paraded with much pomp on Annunciation Day, March 25, and especially Dormition Day, August 15. As it is carried on poles over the heads of the faithful, cures are effected, and religious emotion runs high. On July 23, in honor of St. Pelagia, the icon is paraded from Kechrovouni Nunnery, and afterward the festivities continue long into the night, with music and fireworks. www.tinoslitfestival.com).
If you’re on Santorini on July 20, you can partake in the celebration of St. Elias’s name day, when a traditional pea-and-onion soup is served, followed by walnut and honey desserts and folk dancing.
Naxos has its share of festivals to discover and enjoy. Naxos Town celebrates the Dionysia festival during the first week of August, with concerts, costumed folk dancers, and free food and wine on the square. During Carnival, preceding Lent, “bell wearers” take to the streets in Apeiranthos and Filoti, running from house to house making as much noise as possible with strings of bells tied around their waists. They’re a disconcerting sight in their hooded cloaks, as they escort a man dressed as a woman from house to house to collect eggs. In Apeiranthos, villagers square off in rhyming-verse contests: on the last Sunday of Lent, the paliomaskari, their faces blackened, challenge each other in improvising kotsakia (satirical couplets). On July 14, Ayios Nikodemos Day is celebrated in Chora with a procession of the patron saint’s icon through town, but the Dormition of the Virgin on August 15 is, after Easter and Christmas, the festival most widely celebrated, especially in Sangri, Filoti (where festivities take place on August 4), and Apeiranthos.
On Paros each year on August 23, eight days after the huge festival in Parikia at the Church of a Hundred Doors, Naousa celebrates the heroic naval battle against the Turks, with children dressed in native costume, great feasts, and traditional dancing. The day ends with 100 boats illuminated by torches converging on the harbor. On June 2 there is much feasting in Lefkes for the Holy Trinity.
BEACHES
There is a series of beaches between Chora and Kionia (and beyond, for walkers).
Ayios Fokas Beach. This long sandy beach is the closest organized beach to Tinos Town and it’s also the island’s largest beach overall. The coastline is marked with natural shade from tamarisk trees but beach chairs and umbrellas are readily available for rent during the summer. The main road behind the beach has a gathering of beach hotels, rooms, and tavernas. There are also a few beach bars and cafés along its 1½-km (1-mile) stretch. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: walking; swimming. Ayios Fokas 3 km (2 miles) from Tinos Town.
Stavros Beach. Within walking distance of Tinos Town, this beach is a peaceful little corner of Tinos. One or two tavernas are nearby but Stavros beach is really known for its fine sand and its beautiful surroundings. The turquoise waters remain clear and shady green trees dot the area surrounding Ayios Stavros, the pretty whitewashed church that gave the beach its name. 
TIP → Come during sunset, as it makes for one of the most romantic settings on Tinos. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset; swimming. Stavros Beach 1 km (½ mile) from Tinos Town.
WHERE TO EAT
Fodor’sChoice 
Itan Ena Mikro Karavi. $$ MEDITERRANEAN After entering off a main road in Tinos Town, take a short walk down a pastel-painted hallway to your open-air dining destination, where chef Antonis Psaltis serves his “creative Mediterranean” cuisine with superb results. This discreet entrance hides an impressively ambient setting with hanging bougainvillea, decorated with lively yet warm colors. Known for: beautiful setting; Mediterranean dishes. 
Average main: €20 Trion Ierarchon 22830/22818 www.mikrokaravi.gr Closed Nov.–Apr.
Metaxi Mas. $ GREEK On a trellised lane by the harbor, this family-run taverna is a Tinos favorite, serving a wide range of Greek traditional and Tinian dishes. Main-course favorites include spicy lamb cooked in paper and calamari stuffed with cheese, tomatoes, and peppers. Known for: Tinian dishes; family-friendly atmosphere. Average main: €12 Kontogiorgi 22830/25945 www.metaximastinos.gr.
Symposion. $$ GREEK Giorgos Vidalis’s café and restaurant occupies a sophisticated and well-preserved neoclassical building on a pedestrian-only street. Select from international- and Mediterranean-influenced dishes, to be enjoyed daytime on the upper terraces that overlook the Turkish fountain and the passing scene. Known for: beautiful interiors; good service. Average main: €18 Evangelistrias 13 22830/24368 www.symposion.gr Closed Nov.–Mar.
Zefki. $ GREEK The Tsirou family cooks delicious Greek classics with a Tinian touch. Try the Tinian omelet with sausage and fresh potatoes, or for a more hearty dish go for the savory roasted local goat. Known for: reasonable prices; traditional Tinian dishes; live Greek music on summer Sundays. Average main: €12 Alex. Lagourou 6 Walk up Evangelistria street and take the 2nd right 22830/22231 
No credit cards.
WHERE TO STAY
Favie Suzanne Hotel. $ HOTEL Sleek, posh, and convenient, too—if you are willing to give up a sea view, this is the best place to stay in Tinos Town, thanks, in good part, to the hotel’s lovely decor, which, from fanlights to dovecotes, incorporates many Tinian details. Pros: there is an elevator; swimming pool; conveniently located to Tinos Town sights. Cons: near the busy port; can feel crowded during high season; basic decor. Rooms from: €70 Antoniou Sochou 22 22830/22693 www.faviesuzanne.gr Closed Dec.–Feb. 
49 rooms 
Breakfast.
Vincenzo Family Rooms. $ B&B/INN Owner and manager Ioannis Vidalis has given Tinos just what it needs—a simple, friendly, convenient, and attractive hotel, right in Chora, with furnishings in traditional island style. Pros: walking distance to Tinos Town sights and a beach; a good budget hotel; parking is available. Cons: town can feel busy in high season; simple and basic accommodations; basic breakfast (included in price). Rooms from: €90 25is Martiou 15 22830/25888 www.vincenzo.gr 14 rooms Breakfast.
NIGHTLIFE
Tinos has fewer bars and discos than the other big islands, but there’s a lively late-night bar scene come summer. The action is behind the waterfront between the two boat docks.
Kaktos Bar. Jutting up next to a restored 16th-century Cycladic windmill, Kaktos is an open-air terrace bar where locals and visitors alike can sit back and enjoy a cocktail while taking in the view of Tinos Town and the Aegean sea. The stone walls, wall hangings and artwork create an Old West–style atmosphere, complete with a few large cacti. Summer features a schedule of DJs that spin various house, mainstream, and dance beats. Leof. Tripotamou 22830/25930 www.kaktos-bar.gr Closed Oct.–May.
Koursaros Bar. Koursaros, which translates to “Pirate,” gets its share of summer party crowds each year. Its decor is a soft mix of dark wood and stone with vintage maps and seafaring artifacts that play into the bar’s nautical theme. Its location, at the very corner by the harbor, has made it one of the most visible landmark nightlife spots in Tinos since 1987. Café by day, a DJ turns up the music at night spinning rock, funk, or jazz. Akti Ellis 1 22830/23963.
Sivylla Club. Tinos Town has a nightlife district, but it only comes to life in the heat of the summer. Syvilla, located on one of the district’s alleyways, churns out both Greek pop and international mainstream dance hits. Taxiarchon 17 22830/22511 www.sivylla.gr.
SHOPPING
Due to the island’s landmark church, you’ll find a wide variety of stores selling religious icons of every size and style, handmade from all types of material, including gold, silver, and wood. Tinos is still a rural island in many ways, so locally produced honey, cheese, and foodstuffs are of top quality and simply delicious. Finally, the island is particularly known for its marble arts and sculptures. If you’re looking for something that may not be found anywhere else, beautiful Tinian artwork may be just the thing.
FOOD
Enosis (Farmers’ Cooperative). Tinos produces a lot of milk. A short way up from the harbor, on the right, this little store sells milk, butter, and cheeses, including sharp kopanistí, a specialty of Tinos, that pairs perfectly with ouzo; local jams and honeys are for sale, too. Megalochori 16 The main street up from the harbor 22830/23289.
Halaris Sweet Shop. This sweet shop and bakery is the local go-to for anything traditional and sweet. It’s known for Tinian specialties such as almond paste candies called psarakia tinou, and cheesecake bites made with Tinian cheese called gliko tiropitaki tsibiti. You’ll find yourself walking away with little gift boxes filled with your favorites, but before you go, try their homemade ice cream featuring flavors like Greek yogurt raspberry. Georgiou Plamari 3 22830/23274.
JEWELRY
Fodor’sChoice Anna Maria. By the small park next to the Cultural Center, the entrance to the small arts shop Anna Maria is draped by blue morning-glory vines. The boutique showcases folklore jewelry by Greek artisans, with ancient and Byzantine motifs and also island-made marble pieces selected by owner and local Nikos Kangas. The crowded shop is a delight. Alvanou 6 22830/23456.
Ostria. The selection here is especially good; in addition to delicate silver jewelry, Ostria sells silver icon covers, silver plate, and 22-karat gold. Evangelistria 20 22830/23893.
MARKETS
Farmers’ Market. Tinos is a rich farming island, and every day but Sunday, farmers from all the far-flung villages fill the square with vegetables, herbs, and kritamos (pickled sea-plant leaves). Tinos Town Between two docks Closed Sun.
Fish Market. On a little square near the very center of town, local Tinian fishermen sell fresh seafood. Meanwhile, the local pelican (a rival to Mykonos’s Petros the Pelican) can often be found cadging snacks from them. Tinos Town.
RELIGIOUS ICONS
Dia Cheros. The walls of Xenofon Varveris’s colorful neoclassical shop are filled with detailed religious icons that may look similar at first glance, but once you look closer you’ll see that each piece is unique since each one has been handmade and hand-painted in Greece. Besides a fantastic selection of the icon plaques, Dia Cheros features collections of handmade Greek jewelry as well as traditional glass lamps. Evaggelistrias 24.
WEAVINGS
Biotechniki Scholi. The century-old weaving school, or Biotechniki Scholi, sells traditional weavings—aprons, towels, spreads—made by its students, local girls. The largest of its three high-ceiling, wooden-floor rooms is filled with looms and spindles. Evaggelistria A short walk up the main street from the sea 22830/22894 Closed Oct.–May.
AYIOS IOANNIS BAY αγιος Ιωαννης
7 km (4½ miles) east of Tinos Town.
Heading east from Tinos Town, you’ll travel on a winding road surrounded by bare, rocky Cycladic island landscape. It eventually slopes down into Ayios Ioannis bay (O ormos tou Ayiou Ioanni in Greek). The quiet beaches here offer clear seas that curve into picturesque bays. Around Ayios Ioannis bay, several hotels, rooms for rent, and tavernas open each summer to cater to the season’s travelers.
BEACHES
Ayios Ioannis Porto Beach. FAMILY Since it’s secluded from the summer’s temperamental gusty island winds, the sands that fill up the pretty curved beach of Ayios Ioannis Porto beach stay put. Here you can spend the day under tamarisk trees for natural shade or rent beach chairs and umbrellas during peak season. Its shallow waters and calm nature make it a choice beach for families. Several beach hotels are in close proximity. A few tavernas are nearby for a beach break. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Ayios Ioannis.
Ayios Sostis Beach. FAMILY Known for its shallow turquoise waters and excellent, clear view of Mykonos, the yellow sand-filled Ayios Sostis beach is said to be a continuation of Ayios Kyriaki beach. In the summer, beach chairs and umbrellas are available to rent. A few tavernas and cafés are within walking distance for a meal break or refreshments. There are several ways to get to the beach including a few small roads lined with bougainvillea and tall reeds. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Ayios Sostis.
Pachia Ammos Beach. Secluded in a cove east of Tinos Town, Pachia Ammos is named for its thick sand, which has a unique green hue that complements the surrounding short shrub hills that roll into the turquoise blue sea. It is completely undeveloped, and getting to the beach requires a 15–30-minute walk on an unmarked path, which isn’t ideal for flimsy flip-flops while balancing your beach necessities. The effort, however, is rewarded with basking in one of the prettiest and most peaceful places on the island. To get there, drive 10 km (6 miles) on the main road east toward Ayios Ioannis beach and turn off at the signs for Pachia Ammos. Park off the road and walk over the hill to your right; the beach isn’t obvious right away but follow one of several trails and you’ll see it appear before you. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; swimming. Past Porto, reached by a dirt road, Ayios Ioannis.
WHERE TO STAY
Akti Aegeou. $ RESORT FAMILY The family that runs this little resort is lucky to own such a valuable piece of property as Akti Aegeou, meaning “Aegean Coast,” which is right on the uncrowded and pretty beach at Laouti. Pros: perfect for swimming in pool or beach; charming and welcoming environment; parking is available for guests. Cons: far from town; not within walking distance to major sights of Tinos; breakfast is extra. Rooms from: €80 Laouti 6 km (4 miles) east of Tinos Town 22830/24248 www.aktiaegeou.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 35 rooms No meals.
Porto Tango. $ HOTEL FAMILY This ambitiously up-to-date and stylish resort-hotel strives for the best in decor and service—little wonder that Greece’s late prime minister, Andreas Papandreou, stayed here during his last visit to Tinos. Pros: great for families; nice spa amenities and services; price includes breakfast and transfers. Cons: a bit out in the boonies; necessary to have a car to get to Tinos sights; not much within walking distance. Rooms from: €110 Ayios Ioannis 22830/24411 www.portotango.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 57 rooms Breakfast.
KIONIA Κιονια
2 km (1 miles) northwest of Tinos Town.
The little seaside town of Kiona is a short scenic drive, bike ride, or hike west of Tinos Town. A few simple tavernas and rooms are set off the main beach road, and on the main road the landmark Tinos Beach Hotel directly overlooks Kiona beach. Kiona’s main attraction is the Sanctuary of Poseidon, which dates back to the 4th century BC.
Sanctuary of Poseidon. The reason to come to this small community northwest of Tinos Town is to visit the large, untended Sanctuary of Poseidon, also dedicated to the bearded sea god’s sea-nymph consort, Amphitrite. The present remains are from the 4th century BC and later, though the sanctuary itself is much older. It was a kind of hospital, where the ailing came to camp and solicit the god’s help. The marble dolphins in the museum were discovered here. According to the Roman historian Pliny, Tinos was once infested with serpents (goddess symbols) and named Ophiousa (Serpenttown), until supermasculine Poseidon sent storks to clean them out. The sanctuary functioned well into Roman times. Kionia.
BEACHES
Kionia Beach. Just 3 km (2 miles) west of Tinos Town, Kiona beach remains one of the island’s most visited beaches. It has both pebbles and sand, but the long stretch of sand dominates, and a section of it fronts the archaeological site of the Sanctuary of Poseidon. Kionia’s beachfront road is lined with cafés, tavernas, rooms for rent, and the Tinos Beach Hotel, which are all within walking distance of the beach. Beach chairs and umbrellas are available for rent during the summer. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming; walking. Kionia.
WHERE TO EAT
Tsambia. $ GREEK Abutting the Sanctuary of Poseidon and facing the sea, this multilevel taverna offers such tried-and-true indigenous specialties as pork in red wine with lemon, or goat casserole with oregano. Starters might include louza (smoked pork), local Tinian cheeses rarely sold in stores (especially fried local goat cheese), and homegrown vegetables. Known for: traditional food; fresh fish when available; local cheeses. Average main: €10 Epar. Od. Tinou-Kallonis.
WHERE TO STAY
Tinos Beach Hotel. $ HOTEL FAMILY The winning points about this hotel is that it is big, comfortable, well appointed, and fronts Kionia’s long beach. Pros: good hotel for families; property has elevators; right in front of a beach. Cons: not convenient walking distance from town; some rooms may feel a bit outdated; not much to do at night in Kiona. Rooms from: €94 Kionia 22830/22626 www.tinosbeach.gr 165 rooms Breakfast.
ISTERNIA Ιστερνια
24 km (15 miles) northwest of Tinos Town.
The village of Isternia (Cisterns) is verdant with lush gardens. Many of the marble plaques hung here over doorways—a specialty of Tinos—indicate the owner’s profession, for example, a sailing ship for a fisherman or sea captain. A long, paved road winds down to a little port, Ayios Nikitas, with a beach and two fish tavernas; a small boat ferries people to Chora in good weather.
BEACHES
Isternia Beach. The beach, located right at the foot of the little fishing village of Isternia bay, is actually two beaches—one a pebbled area and one a sandy cove—but both are known for their peaceful seclusion, although two tavernas and a café are nearby. You can also take some time out to visit the inland village of Isternia about 5 km (3 miles) away. Whether you’re lying on the beach or having a meal by the sea, you can look forward to enjoying one of the nicest sunset views in Tinos. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: solitude; swimming. Isternia.
WHERE TO EAT
Fodor’sChoice To Thalassaki. $$ MEDITERRANEAN The name means “the little sea” and this restaurant, specializing in Mediterranean seafood, has one of the island’s best sea views. Set on a platform on Ormos Isternion bay, right up against the Aegean sea with views of Syros, chef and owner Antonia Zarpa produces innovative, well-thought-out dishes that capture the local flavors from her beloved island. Known for: seaside dining and fantastic sea views; excellent Greek-inspired cuisine with Tinian influences; innovative and delicious desserts. Average main: €18 Ornos Closed Nov.–Mar.
PIRGOS Πυργος
32 km (20 miles) northwest of Tinos Town, 8 km (5 miles) north of Isternia.
The village of Pirgos, second in importance to Chora, is inland and up from the little harbor of Panormos. Tinos is famous for its marble carving, and Pirgos, a prosperous town, is noted for its sculpture school (the town’s highest building) and marble workshops, where artisans make fanlights, fountains, tomb monuments, and small objects for tourists; they also take orders. The village’s main square is aptly crafted of all marble; the five cafés, noted for galaktoboureko (custard pastry), and one taverna are all shaded by an ancient plane tree. The quarries for the green-vein marble are north of here, reachable by car. The cemetery here is, appropriately, a showplace of marble sculpture.
EXPLORING
Museum Iannoulis Chalepas. The marble-working tradition of Tinos survives here from the 19th century and is going strong, as seen in the two adjacent museums: Museum Iannoulis Chalepas and Museum of Tinos Artists, which house the work of Pirgos’s renowned sculptor, and other works. Pirgos One block from bus stop 22830/31262 3€ Closed Oct.–Mar.
Fodor’sChoice Museum of Marble Crafts. In the highest building on Pirgos hill, the Museum of Marble Crafts is part of the Piraeus Bank Cultural Foundation’s network of high-tech museums on the last century’s traditional industries. Inside the strikingly modern building exhibits show the process of quarrying and carving, and they are the best you’ll ever see. The master artists’ drawings for altarpieces and tomb sculpture are also on display, as are some of their works. Pirgos Take the staircase up from the main square of Pirgos 22830/31290 www.piop.gr/en €3 Closed Tues.
SHOPPING
Lambros Diamantopoulos. A number of marble carvers are, appropriately, found in Pirgos. You may visit the shop and view the work of probably the island’s best master carver, Lambros Diamantopoulos, who accepts commissions for work to be done throughout Greece. His traditional designs are for sale, both to visitors and to other carvers, who may bring a portable slab home to copy. Pirgos Near main square 22830/31365.
PANORMOS BAY ορμος Πανορμου
35 km (22 miles) northwest of Tinos Town, 3 km (2 miles) north of Pirgos.
Panormos bay, an unpretentious port once used for marble export, has ducks and geese, a row of seafood restaurants, and a good beach with a collapsed sea cave. More coves with secluded swimming are beyond, as is the islet of Panormos. There are many rooms to rent.
BEACHES
Panormos Beach. The sandy beach fronts the lovely fishing village of Panormos, which at one point was the island’s main harbor. Located north of Tinos Town, most visitors also make it a point to visit the nearby inland village of Pirgos or beach-hop to little beaches to the east and west of Panormos beach. When the island winds are right, windsurfers may take on the waters. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming; windsurfing. Panormos.
Rohari Beach. FAMILY Located in the next cove southeast of Panormos beach, Rohari remains just as popular in the summer as a favorite northern beach destination. Fully organized, the beachfront cantinas are the perfect spot for a cool drink; there are beach umbrellas and chairs for rent. It’s within close proximity to the village of Panormos, which has a wide selection of tavernas and cafés for a beach-day break. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Panormos.
MYKONOS ΜΥΚΟΝΟΣ
From backpackers to the superrich, from day-trippers to yachties, from regular people to celebrities (who head here by helicopter), Mykonos has become one of the most popular of the Aegean islands. Today’s scene is a weird but attractive cocktail of tradition, beauty, and glitz, but travelers from all over the world have long been drawn to this dry, rugged island—at 16 km (10 miles) by 11 km (7 miles), one of the smaller Cyclades—thanks to its many stretches of sandy beach, its thatched windmills, and its picturesque port town. One thing is certain: Mykonos knows how to maintain its attractiveness, how to develop it, and how to sell it. Complain as you will that it is touristy, noisy, and overdeveloped; you’ll be back.
In the 1950s a few tourists began trickling into Mykonos on their way to see the ancient marvels on the nearby islet of Delos, the sacred isle. For almost 1,000 years Delos was the religious and political center of the Aegean and host every four years to the Delian games, the region’s greatest festival. The population of Delos actually reached 20,000 at the peak of its commercial period, and throughout antiquity Mykonos, eclipsed by its holy neighbor, depended on this proximity for income (it has been memorably described as Delos’s “bordello”), as it partly does today. Anyone interested in antiquity should plan to spend at least one morning on Delos, which has some of the most striking sights preserved from antiquity, including the beautiful Avenue of the Lions or the startling, enormous stone phalli in the Sanctuary of Dionysus.
Today, the natives of Mykonos have happily fit cosmopolitan New Yorkers, Londoners, and Athenians gracefully into their way of life. You may see, for example, an old island woman leading a donkey laden with vegetables through the town’s narrow streets, greeting the suntanned vacationers walking by. The truth is, Mykonians regard a good tourist season the way a fisherman inspects a calm morning’s catch; for many, the money earned in July and August will support them for the rest of the year. Not long ago Mykonians had to rely on what they could scratch out of the island’s arid land for sustenance, and some remember suffering from starvation under Axis occupation during World War II. How things have changed.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Mykonos is superpopular and easy to get to. It is totally jammed in season, in part thanks to 10 or more daily, 45-minute flights from Athens in summer (there are almost as many in winter); there are also direct flights from Europe and the Middle East. The trip by ferry takes from two to five hours depending on your route, the boat, and Poseidon’s weather ways. There are eight or more boats a day. For Easter and August 15, book early. In summer, reservations are necessary; off-season, you won’t need one, but cars always need them. The boats usually pull in at the huge new dock area, from which you must take a bus or taxi, or get your hotel to pick you up (better hotels do this, and often charge you for it).
In Mykonos Town the Ayios Loukas bus depot in the Fabrica quarter at the south end of town has buses to Ornos, Ayios Ioannis, Platis Gialos, Psarou, Paradise beach, the airport, and Kalamopodi. Another depot near the Archaeological Museum is for Ayios Stefanos, Tourlos, Ano Mera, Elia, Kalafatis, and Kalo Livadi. Schedules are posted (hotel concierges also should have this info); fares run from €2 to €10. Regular taxis line up at Plateia Manto Mavrogenous, while scooter-taxis greet new arrivals at the harbor; use them to get to your Mykonos Town hotel, usually hidden away on a pedestrian- and scooter-only street. Meters are not used on Mykonos; instead, standard fares for each destination are posted on a notice bulletin board; note there are only 13 regular cabs here even in August!
TOURS
Mykonos Accommodation Center. This center, in a picturesque old building (up a steep staircase), has grown to offer just about every service a visitor may need on Mykonos, including a wide variety of group tours. A guide takes a group every morning for a day tour of Delos (€50). The company also has half-day guided tours of the Mykonos beach towns, with a stop in Ano Mera for the Panayia Tourliani Monastery (€50). You can also take an excursion to nearby Tinos (€70), arrange private tours of Delos and Mykonos and off-road jeep trips (€70), charter yachts, and more. Owner John van Lerberghe is an expat who has lived on the island for decades, and he knows his stuff. Enoplon Dynameon 10, Mykonos Town 22890/23160 www.mykonos-accommodation.com.
MYKONOS TOWN Μυκονος (ΧΩρα)
177 km (110 miles) southeast of Piraeus harbor in Athens.
Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating.
Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos Town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town’s medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and the churches, with their red or blue doors, domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to protect the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law.
Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network.
Morning on Mykonos Town’s main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night’s mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos’s produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed in their sexy summer best and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can.
Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos Town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Manto Mavrogenous Square.
EXPLORING
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Aegean Maritime Museum. The charming Aegean Maritime Museum contains a collection of model ships, navigational instruments, old maps, prints, coins, and nautical memorabilia. The backyard garden displays some old anchors and ship wheels and a reconstructed 1890 lighthouse, once lighted by oil. Enoplon Dynameon 10 22890/22700 www.culture.gr €4.
Archaeological Museum of Mykonos. Before setting out on the mandatory boat excursion to the isle of Delos, check out the Archaeological Museum, which affords insight into the intriguing history of its ancient shrines. The museum houses Delian funerary sculptures, many with scenes of mourning; most were moved to Rhenea when the Athenians cleansed Delos in the 6th century, during the sixth year of the Peloponnesian War, and, under instruction from the Delphic Oracle, the entire island was purged of all dead bodies. The most significant work from Mykonos is a 7th-century BC pithos (storage jar), showing the Greeks in the Trojan horse and the sacking of the city. Mykonos Town Old Port of Chora Mykonos 22890/22325 www.culture.gr €4 Closed Mon.
Fodor’sChoiceChurch of Paraportiani (Our Lady of the Postern Gate). Mykonians claim that exactly 365 churches and chapels dot their landscape, one for each day of the year. The most famous of these is the Church of Paraportiani. The sloping, whitewashed conglomeration of four chapels, mixing Byzantine and vernacular idioms, looks fantastic. Solid and ultimately sober, its position on a promontory facing the sea sets off the unique architecture; it’s said to be one of the most photographed churches in the world. Ayion Anargyron Near folk museum.
Folk Museum. Housed in an 18th-century house originally built for Captain Nikolaos Malouchos, this museum exhibits a bedroom furnished and decorated in the fashion of that period. On display are looms and lace-making devices, Cycladic costumes, old photographs, and Mykoniot musical instruments that are still played at festivals. Kastro Old Port, near Paraportiani church Closed Oct.–Apr.
Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Mykonos. This cathedral is dedicated to Virgin Mary the Great (the name by which locals know it) and is noted for its number of old icons of the post-Byzantine period. Alefkandra Sq. At the intersection of Anargyron and Odos Mitropolis.
Lena’s House. Take a peek into Lena’s House, an annex of the local Folk Museum, and experience an accurate restoration of a middle-class Mykonos house from the 19th century. Enoplon Dynameon 22890/22390 Closed Nov.–Mar.
Fodor’sChoiceLittle Venice. Many of the early ships’ captains built distinguished houses directly on the seafront here, with elaborate buttressed wooden balconies hanging over the water, which is why this neighborhood, at the southwest end of the port, earned its name. Architecturally unique, it is one of the most attractive areas in all the islands, and many of these fine old houses now house shops or elegant bars specializing in sunset drinks or cabarets, which draw the crowds. Little Venice presents countless photo ops, especially at sunset. Mykonos Town.
Manto Mavrogenous Square. Start a tour of Mykonos Town (Hora) on the main square, Manto Mavrogenous Square (sometimes called Taxi Square). Pride of place goes to a bust of Manto Mavrogenous, the island heroine, atop a pedestal. In the 1821 War of Independence the Mykonians, known for their seafaring skills, volunteered an armada of 24 ships, and in 1822, when the Ottomans landed a force on the island, Manto and her soldiers forced them back to their ships. After independence, a scandalous love affair caused the heroine’s exile to Paros, where she died. An aristocratic beauty who becomes a great revolutionary war leader and then dies for love may seem straight out of Hollywood, but it is all true. Mykonos Town.
Matoyanni. The main shopping street, Matoyanni, is lined with jewelry stores, clothing boutiques, chic cafés, and candy shops. Owing to the many cruise ships that disgorge thousands of shoppers daily in season—some unload 3,000 jostling tourists—the rents here rival 5th Avenue’s, and the more-interesting shops have skedaddled to less-prominent side streets. Mykonos Town Perpendicular to harbor.
Mykonos Windmills. Across the water from Little Venice, set on a high hill, are the famous Mykonos windmills, echoes of a time when wind power was used to grind the island’s grain. The area from Little Venice to the windmills is called Alefkandra, which means “whitening”: women once hung their laundry here. A little farther toward the windmills the bars chockablock on shoreside decks are barely above sea level, and when the north wind is up (often), surf splashes the tables. Farther on, the shore spreads into an unprepossessing beach, and tables are placed on sand or pebbles. After dinner (there are plenty of little tavernas here), the bars turn up their music, and knowing the beat thumps into the night, older tourists seek solace elsewhere. Alefkandra.
WORTH NOTING
Mykonos Agricultural Museum. This museum displays a 16th-century windmill, traditional outdoor oven, waterwheel, dovecote, and more. Petassos At top of Mykonos Town Closed Oct.–May.
Public Art Gallery of Mykonos. Located on Manto Mavrogenous Square, the Public Art Gallery of Mykonos changes exhibitions every 10 days giving Greek and international artists a great place to showcase their work. Matoyanni 22890/27190.
Roman Catholic Cathedral. Next to the Greek Orthodox Cathedral is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Virgin of St. Rosary, from the Venetian period. The name and coat of arms of the Ghisi family, which took over Mykonos in 1207, are inscribed in the entrance hall. Platia Alefkandra At the intersection of Anargyron and Odos Mitropolis.
BEACHES
Swimming in quiet Aegean bays with clean blue water enclosed by rugged hills cannot be overpraised—so it is little wonder some of Greece’s finest strands of sand are found on Mykonos. Mostly protected from the prevailing north winds, they can be conveniently grouped. In general the beaches charge €5–€15 for an umbrella and sun bed. Most of the island’s beaches lie along Mykonos’s southern coast; from Mykonos Town, Ornos beach is about 10 minutes, Kalafati is less than an hour. Mykonos Town does have a little beach that attracts local children or townies who just want a quick dip, but it’s not going to be your beach of choice. All the others require transportation.
WHERE TO EAT
Avra. $$$ INTERNATIONAL Set in an ambient, open garden space shaded by colorful bougainvillea in the heart of Mykonos Town, Avra offers mostly Mediterranean cuisine, as well as an international selection that features good Asian and Italian dishes. Excellent appetizers include fried feta in pastry topped with sesame seeds, grapes, and rose petal jelly. Known for: atmospheric garden dining area; international dishes done well. Average main: €26 Kalogera 27 22890/22298 www.avra-mykonos.com Closed Nov.–Apr.
Fodor’sChoice Funky Kitchen. $$$ MEDITERRANEAN Tucked in a quiet corner of Mykonos Town, on a picturesque whitewashed street lined with bougainvillea, you’ll find talented chef Pavlos Grivas at work in his modern, open kitchen perfecting his innovative Mediterranean fusion dishes. Starters delight, reflecting the traditional products of Mykonos, including a uniquely flavorful panna cotta with kopanisti cheese, dried figs and Greek prosciutto. Known for: excellent service and reputation; quiet ambient dining in Mykonos Town; gluten-free options. Average main: €26 Ignatiou Basoula 40 22890/27272 Closed Apr.–Oct.
Kounelas. $$ SEAFOOD This long-established fresh-fish taverna is where many fishermen themselves eat, for solid, no-frills food; you can pick your own fish. The menu depends on the weather—low winds mean lots of fish. Known for: fresh seafood and meats by the kilo, all grilled outside on a wood grill; after-dinner liqueur; casual, friendly atmosphere. Average main: €25 Mykonos Town Off the port, near Delos boats 22890/28220 kounelas-myconos.com.
Fodor’sChoice La Maison de Katrin. $$$$ FRENCH Hidden away in the Dilou quarter, this is one of the most reputable restaurants on the island, featuring the best of both French and Greek cuisine—which makes it well worth the search to find it. Fine food and excellent, hospitable service keep people coming, in spite of the prices. Known for: quality traditional Greek and French cuisine; excellent and professional service; rich and delightful desserts. Average main: €60 Ayios Gerasimos and Nikou, Dilou 22890/22169 Closed Nov.–Apr.
Nice n Easy. $$ INTERNATIONAL On a prime sea-front location, chef Christos Athanasiadis keeps things “nice and easy” with farm-to-table Mediterranean cuisine using locally produced organic and gluten-free ingredients. The menu is plentiful, with diverse choices such as Mykonian chicken spaghetti with kopanisti cheese, fresh baked salmon with quinoa, and unique favorites like water buffalo meatballs with smoked tomato sauce (they have an organic buffalo farm in northern Greece). Known for: organic, farm-to-table dishes; fantastic sea views; sister restaurant to two successful Athens locations. Average main: €20 Platia Alefkandra By the Mykonos windmills 22890/25421 www.niceneasy.gr.
WHERE TO STAY
Belvedere. $$$$ HOTEL This is the hotel for those who seek stylish surroundings and hip fellow guests, and like to see what they are paying for. Pros: Mykonos Town’s most “in” hotel; beautiful stylish and posh atmosphere; top restaurant on premises. Cons: you can pay plenty for a small room with no view; off a busy back road so can be noisy; not in easy reach to a beach. Rooms from: €795 Lakka Rohari School of Fine Arts District 22890/25122 www.belvederehotel.com Closed Dec. and Jan. 44 rooms Breakfast.
Fodor’sChoice Bill and Coo. $$$$ HOTEL From afar, Bill and Coo may look like any whitewashed Cycladic hotel, but inside a world of polished contemporary design and high-level service awaits. Pros: excellent service; beautiful infinity pool; one of the top restaurants on Mykonos is here. Cons: pricey summer suite rates; not in easy reach of the beach or party scene; not in easy walking distance to Mykonos Town sights. Rooms from: €600 Mykonos Town Megali Ammos area 22890/26292 www.bill-coo-hotel.com Closed Nov.–Apr. 30 rooms Breakfast.
Hotel Mykonos Adonis. $$ HOTEL Set on the edge of town not far from Little Venice and overlooking the sea, this is not only Mykonos’s friendliest hotel but is also both convenient and nicely out of the fray. Pros: convenient to the party scene; good service; walking distance to major sights of Mykonos Town. Cons: on a street with traffic; proximity to town means possible noise from partiers at night; overall area can feel busy during high season. Rooms from: €165 Ayiou Ioannou 22890/23433 www.mykonosadonis.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 23 rooms Breakfast.
Livin Mykonos. $$$$ HOTEL Located on the outskirts of Mykonos Town, Livin Mykonos is a small boutique hotel where an ambient pool area enjoys an unexpectedly fantastic sunset view. Pros: excellent friendly service; beautiful pool area; relaxing sunset view. Cons: rooms may be on the small side for the price paid; not much very close by; not in easy walking distance to sights, with uphill hike back to the hotel. Rooms from: €340 Mykonos Town 22890/ 23474 www.livinmykonos.gr Closed Oct.–Apr. 26 rooms Breakfast.
Myconian Korali. $$$ HOTEL This five-star addition to the Myconian Collection Hotels and Resorts, and member of Relais & Châteaux, is a chic, modern option for a luxury stay with inspiring views, private pools, and fine service from smartly dressed, hospitable staff. Pros: beautiful design with a smart contemporary touch; excellent restaurant and breakfast buffet; sea views throughout the property. Cons: not within easy walking distance to Mykonos Town; pricey standard rooms in high season; a bit isolated, surrounded by other hotels. Rooms from: €250 Mykonos Town 22890 /22107 www.myconiankorali.gr Closed Nov.–Apr. 40 rooms Breakfast.
Philippi Hotel. $$ B&B/INN Of the inexpensive hotels scattered throughout town, this is the most attractive, with rooms that have balconies overlooking the garden. Pros: conveniently located in Mykonos Town; clean accommodations with balconies; free Wi-Fi for guests. Cons: if you want to get away from it all, go elsewhere; some rooms in need of updating; smallish rooms. Rooms from: €220 Kalogera 25 22890/22294 www.philippihotel.com Closed Nov.–Mar. 15 rooms No meals.
Semeli. $$$$ HOTEL Named after a Greek nymph, this quiet and convenient hotel is centrally located and many of its rooms offer beautiful sea views. Pros: cool and relaxing pool; conveniently in walking distance to town’s sights; on-site restaurant and spa. Cons: stiff room rates; no elevators; location can feel crowded in high season. Rooms from: €460 Mykonos Town Below ring road 22890/27471 www.semelihotel.gr Closed Dec. and Jan. 65 rooms Breakfast.
Fodor’sChoice Villa Konstantin. $$ B&B/INN FAMILY Styled in the traditional whitewashed Mykonian architecture with cozy lounging areas, Villa Konstantin is a set of apartments and studios that offers a quiet atmosphere away from the bustle of Mykonos Town but is still close enough to enjoy it. Pros: great pool area; inexpensive for what you get, which is a lot; laid-back and relaxing atmosphere. Cons: the walk from town is uphill; not within very easy walking distance to Mykonos Town; Continental breakfast is extra for certain room types. Rooms from: €150 Agios Vassilios 22890/26204 www.villakonstantin-mykonos.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 19 rooms Breakfast.
NIGHTLIFE
Whether it’s bouzouki, jazz, mainstream dance, or techno, the nightlife on Mykonos beats to an obsessive rhythm until undetermined hours—little wonder the world’s gilded youth comes here just to enjoy the night scene. That scene centers around two places: Mykonos Town and the southern beaches.
Nightlife begins in the late afternoon at beach bars that dot Paradise, Super Paradise, and Paranga. At 4 pm the music is pumping loudly as the hired, sexy dance crews top the tables, and cocktails flow freely. The beach scene dies down around 8 or 9, when the beach party animals rest up before the next round of nightlife.
The bars and clubs along Little Venice and throughout Mykonos Town start to fill up after 11 pm, as patrons sip their first drinks of the night. The gay scene is still alive on Mykonos. Those who prefer a quieter lounge-type experience remain seated outside a sea-view café with a glass of wine, watching it all go by.
For the true night owls, much happens after midnight. You can either choose to club-hop around town or head south to the glamorous, outdoor arena–style clubs along Paradise and Super Paradise beaches. In the summer, posters and leaflets flung throughout Mykonos Town advertise which of the hottest international DJs are booked to spin each night. That and the promise of a packed, friendly, flirtatious young crowd gets the international partygoers ready for the beach well into the night. What is “the” place of the moment? The scene is ever-changing, so you’ll need to track the buzz once you arrive. But there are some ever-popular options.
Galleraki. For nearly 30 years Galleraki has gathered happy, stylish, summer crowds. One reason is that it serves some of the best cocktails on the island. But another compelling reason is its prime location, so close to the water in picturesque Little Venice, you may get sprayed when a boat passes. Mykonos Town 22890/27188 www.galleraki.gr.
Guzel. Ideally located on the Mykonos Town waterfront, you would probably pass the club during the day without a second thought to its plain, unimpressive exterior that still shows its former name, 9 Muses, beneath its new name. At night the club comes alive and the best thing about it is the music. A loud, fun, crazy dance-encouraging mix from their summer DJ lineup gets everyone inside moving on the floor and on chairs. Pastel neon lights fling around in the dark, bubbly crowd to the latest international and Greek pop spins. Waterfront.
Interni. This whitewashed, modern Cycladic-style garden setting in the heart of Mykonos Town is flanked on all sides by lovely large trees. It’s a Mediterranean restaurant (dinner) and event space but it really shines at night when it’s lighted up and the summer crowd gathers to its central bar for cocktails and to enjoy the open airy space. Gathering a calmer crowd that likes to be seen, it’s a place you can have a good drink, listen to music, and hear a person speaking next to you. Matogianni 22890/26333 www.interni-restaurant.gr.
Kastro Bar. Kostas Karatzas’s long-standing Kastro Bar with heavy beamed ceilings and island furnishings, creates an intimate environment for enjoying the evening sunset over the bay to classical music. Paraportiani Little Venice 22890/23072.
Montparnasse/The Piano Bar. For more than 30 years, Montparnasse has been simply known as The Piano Bar. It’s lively, lovely and LGBT-friendly with a long-standing tradition of supporting the island’s local artists. Check out the latest artwork on its walls and then admire the gorgeous sunset views that precede energy-filled evenings of live cabaret and musicals. Ayion Anargyron 24, Little Venice 22890/23719 www.thepianobar.com.
Rhapsody. Rubbing elbows with Montparnasse is Rhapsody, a cocktail bar open all year for Greek dancing. Mykonos Town Little Venice 22890/23412.
Skandinavian Bar. Toward the end of Mykonos Town’s main market street is the Skandinavian Bar, which spreads over two buildings, two floors (one for pub chats, one for dancing), and an outside seating area. The music in the three bars ranges from classic rock to pop to dance. K. Georgouli 22890/22669 www.skandinavianbar.com.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
WATER SPORTS
Water-sports facilities can be found at many beaches offering different types of equipment. The main hub for windsurfing in the southern part of the island is at Kalafati beach. The north side of the island is also a wind lover’s haven; Panormos and Ftelia is where they all head.
SHOPPING
Most stores are to be found in Mykonos Town, one right after the other among the warren of streets. In the peak of summer, many are open until midnight. The jet set is catered to quite well with an abundance of boutiques selling precious gems, fine jewelry, au courant fashion, swimwear, and shoes donning top international labels. Then, there are great local items that you’d only find in Greece—or in Mykonos—including handmade leather sandals, belts, and purses, and a selection of handicrafts and paintings created by local artists. Local food products and all-natural Greek cosmetics and soaps round out the best souvenirs options.
FASHION
Galatis. Designer Yiannis Galatis has outfitted such famous women as Julie Christie, Elizabeth Taylor, Ingrid Bergman, and Jackie Onassis. He will probably greet you personally and show you some of his costumes and hostess gowns. His memoirs capture the old days on Mykonos, when Jackie O was a customer. His art gallery is adjacent. Platia Manto Mavrogenous Opposite Lalaounis 22890/22255.
Kalypso. Mother-and-daughter team Kalypso and Calliope Anastopoulou create their own collection of handmade leather sandals and women’s clothing with colorful, island inspiration. Their shop, on busy Matoyianni street, also has a selection of handmade jewelry. Andronikou 17 22890/77149.
Kampanas. For a wide selection of handmade leather goods, head to Kampanas. It will be hard to choose from the array of sandals for both men and women that line the walls. There are also collections of purses and belts. The color choices are wide and the leather is top quality. Mitropoleos 3 22890/22638 www.kampanas.gr Closed Sun.
Parthenis. Opened by Dimitris Parthenis in 1978, Parthenis now features designs by his daughter Orsalia, all showcased in a large Mykonian-style building on the up side of Alefkandra Square in Little Venice. The collection of cotton and silk garments (mostly in neutral colors) is very popular for their soft draping and clinging wrap effect. Platia Alefkandra 22890/22448 www.orsalia-parthenis.gr.
Salachas. The small Salachas store is filled with linen and cotton garments of all-Greek materials and manufacture. Grandfather Joseph Salachas was a tailor in the 1960s, and once made clothes for Christian Dior and various celebrities. Today, his grandchildren keep up the tradition. K. Georgouli 58 22890/22710.
The Workshop. Walking into The Workshop you’ll immediately realize that the owner, Christos Xenitidis, loves two things: music and jewelry. His handiwork is responsible for the lovely gold and silver necklaces, rings, and earrings behind the simple glass displays. Look above his jewelry workbench to see a line of the guitar-like bouzoukias that he fixes and collects. Sometimes, his musician Mykonian friends stop by and an impromptu concert will form before your eyes. Panahra 12 22890/26455.
Zonadiko. Head up the stairs off one of Mykonos’s busiest pedestrian walkways to find Michalis Pavlos at work in his little leather workshop, where he creates leather belts, sandals, and purses. Since the late 1980s, Pavlos has been making his own goods and distributing them all over Greece, but he opened his own shop in 2014 to show and sell his work directly on his favorite island. The quality of the leather he uses is second to none and he takes bespoke orders, too. Matoyianni.
FINE AND DECORATIVE ART
Anna Gelou. Anna Gelou’s eponymous shop, started by her mother 50 years ago, carries authentic copies of traditional handmade embroideries, all using white Greek cotton, in clothing, tablecloths, curtains, and such. Ayion Anargyron 16, Little Venice 22890/26825.
Artists of Mykonos Studio. The Artists of Mykonos Studio features the work of several Mykonian artists including paintings by the expat artist Richard James North and pieces by Greek mosaicist Monika Derpapas. The collection is simply lovely, colorful, and expressive. Panachrantou 11 22890/23527.
Nikoletta. Mykonos used to be a weaver’s island, where 500 looms clacked away. Only two active weavers remain today and Nikoletta Xidakis is one of them. She sells her skirts, shawls, and bedspreads made of local wool, as she has for more than 50 years. Scarpa Little Venice 22890/27503.
Ninemia. Maria Kouniou is a local artist and displays her own handmade and hand-painted woodcraft wall hangings in her little whitewashed shop. She’s also proud to support other Greek artists and sells their fun, colorful jewelry and T-shirts that reflect the style and beauty of Greece. M. Axioti 51 22894/00073 www.ninemia.net.
JEWELRY
Ilias Lalaounis. Known internationally, this fine jewelry collection is based on ancient Greek and other designs but reinterpreted for the modern woman. With many of their earrings and necklaces as lovingly worked as art pieces, the shop is as elegant as a museum. New collections are introduced every year. Polykandrioti 14 Near taxis 22890/22444 www.lalaounis.gr.
AYIOS STEFANOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΣΤΕΦΑΝΟΣ
6 km (4 miles) north of Mykonos Town.
About a 45-minute walk north from Mykonos Town, Ayios Stefanos has water sports, restaurants, and umbrellas and lounge chairs for rent; kids love it, and you can watch the yachts and enormous cruise ships slide by. The south coast’s many beaches include this one fit for families.
BEACHES
Ayios Stefanos Beach. FAMILY Like many beaches in Greece, Ayios Stefanos takes its name from the little chapel built on it. Just north of Mykonos Town, this sandy stretch attracts its share of families for its shallow waters and array of eating, lodging, and café options within reach. Although it’s unsheltered from northern winds it’s always been an ideal beach to view the sunsets of Mykonos. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset; swimming. Ayios Stefanos Less than 2 km (1 mile) north from Mykonos Town.
WHERE TO EAT
Tagoo. $$$$ GREEK High Mykonian style can be yours at the eatery of this noted hotel, a creation of the popular Athens restaurant, Spondi. The haute cuisine is served in either an all-white room or at outdoor tables, with Mykonos bay on one side and an infinity pool on the other. Known for: gourmet plates; beautiful views; great service. Average main: €60 Hotel Cavo Tagoo, Mykonos Town 12 mins by foot south of Ayios Stefanos 22890/20100 www.cavotagoo.gr Closed Nov.–Apr.
WHERE TO STAY
Fodor’sChoice Cavo Tagoo. $$$$ HOTEL Many consider this to be the top hotel on Mykonos for luxury, service, and comfort—a whitewashed property climbing the hill over the bay in sensuous curves, with natural projecting rock on the winding path to the guest rooms. Pros: beautiful views from hotel; alluring Mykonos style; on-site spa and well-reputed restaurant. Cons: a 15-minute walk to town; high prices; not within easy walking distance to Mykonos Town sights. Rooms from: €750 Ayios Stefanos Follow coast road, north of Old Port 22890/20100 www.cavotagoo.gr Closed Nov.–Apr. 89 rooms Breakfast.
Fodor’sChoice Grace Mykonos. $$$$ HOTEL Small, charming, luxurious, and set above the beach of Ayios Stefanos, the Mykonos Grace is graced with a truly impressive setting, with an encompassing view of Mykonos harbor. Pros: impressive vistas; intimate atmosphere; professional service with nice on-site restaurant. Cons: not walking distance to Mykonos Town; not all rooms have direct access to elevator; smallish rooms for the price. Rooms from: €530 Ayios Stefanos 22890/20000 www.mykonosgrace.com Closed Nov.–Mar. 31 rooms Breakfast.
Mykonos Princess. $$$$ HOTEL Set on a slope above Ayios Stefanos beach, the Mykonos Princess is a scenic and lively boutique hotel where courteous staff offer attentive service in the restaurant, around pool and pool bar, and for any local advice. Pros: scenic pool, restaurant, and pool bar area; attentive service; lively and energetic atmosphere. Cons: not within walking distance of Mykonos Town; not much within decent walking distance, except Ayios Stefanos beach; rooms around the pool are noisy, from pool lounge speakers and chatter. Rooms from: €500 Ayios Stefanos 22890/23806 www.princessofmykonos.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 34 rooms Breakfast.
ORNOS ΟΡΝΟΣ
3 km (2 miles) south of Mykonos Town.
Ornos has always been more popular with Mykonians than tourists. The locals like its relaxed atmosphere for a family swim and beachside dining. There are several good restaurants, two fine hotels above the bay, and several cheaper ones lower down, and chairs and umbrellas for rent. In calm weather, boats start here for the other southern beaches, so that they are all connected (45 minutes to the farthest southern beach, Elia), and you can beach-hop easily.
TOURS
Fodor’sChoiceMykonos On Board Sailing Tours. Another side to enjoying Mykonos is getting off the island to dive into the surreal aqua waters off the coast of its neighboring islands, which are best experienced by private sailing cruises. The hospitable captain, Artemis, and his team take up to eight guests on a comfortable, scenic, and sun-filled half-day journey to secluded secret swimming coves off Delos and Rhenia islands for swimming, relaxation, and his fresh and tasty Greek barbecue. The tour sets off from Ayios Ioannis Diakoftis bay. Ayios Ioannis 69/3247–1055 www.mykonosonboard.com From €100 per person.
BEACHES
Ayios Ioannis Beach. FAMILY One of the best places on Mykonos to catch the sunset is the pebble-and-sand beach of Ayios Ioannis. Divided into two sections by large rocks, the waters usually remain calm but the summer winds can take their hold. The shallow bay is popular with families, and dining and lodging options are plenty thanks to the whitewashed beach town that grew around it. TIP → The beach is also referred to as Shirley Valentine beach, because the 1989 British movie of the same name was filmed here. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset; swimming. Ayios Ioannis.
Ornos Beach. FAMILY A community has grown around this beach, which is now considered one of the most family-friendly on the island. It’s pretty and sandy and there are umbrella and lounge chair rentals. A good selection of beach hotels, tavernas, restaurants, cafés, and shops make up Ornos bay, and there’s bus service from Mykonos Town. It’s also the launch point to take a boat to other beaches or to Delos. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Ornos.
WHERE TO EAT
Apaggio. $$ GREEK Tucked in a tranquil corner of Ornos bay, Apaggio is simply decorated and lined with large open windows for a perfect, unobstructed view of the sea. Beautifully presented tavern-style specialties include local fish and familiar Greek favorites such as Greek salad and moussaka. Known for: traditional Greek specialities; sea view. Average main: €20 Ornos beach www.apaggio.gr.
Fodor’sChoice Buddha Bar Beach. $$$ ASIAN FUSION Set above the tranquil private beach at the exclusive Santa Marina Hotel, Buddha Bar Beach shows off its Greek island side as part of the renowned upscale chain known for avant-garde world music, celebrity DJs and chefs, and inspired cocktails. It’s one of the most stylish tables to book, and the Mediterranean-Greek fusion with Chinese, Japanese, and Thai cuisines delivers on taste and presentation, enjoyed in stylish moderation by a super-chic and well-heeled crowd. Known for: beautiful beach and sea views; cosmopolitan and stylish crowd; excellent Asian cuisine and fusion dishes. Average main: €30 Ornos 22890/23220 buddhabarbeachmykonos.gr Closed Nov.–Mar.
Fodor’sChoice Hippie Fish. $$ INTERNATIONAL Fronted by beautiful Ayios Ioannis beach, Hippie Fish is one of the liveliest on-the-beach restaurants—an institution since the 1970s, serving a mix of international and Mediterranean cuisine with excellent service. But what it will always be locally famous for is making the big screen as the 1989 setting for the movie, Shirley Valentine, about a dissatisfied housewife “finding herself” on Mykonos. Known for: lively atmosphere; quality international and Mediterranean plates; relaxed and scenic on-the-beach location. Average main: €20 Ayios Ioannis 22890/22901 www.hippiefish-mykonos.com/.
WHERE TO STAY
Deliades. $$$$ HOTEL If you like comfort, large rooms, friendly service, a sea view, and quiet, Deliades is exactly for you. Pros: Ornos bay views; large rooms and bathtubs; relaxed atmosphere. Cons: not for those wanting to be in the thick of the Mykonos scene; no pets allowed; shuttle necessary to conveniently get to Mykonos Town. Rooms from: €300 Ornos bay Far end of Ornos beach, follow road up 30 yards 22890/79430, 22890/79470 www.deliades.com Closed Oct.–Apr. 30 rooms Breakfast.
Kivotos Clubhotel. $$$$ HOTEL The Kivotos Clubhotel is deluxe, architecturally ambitious, and stylishly arrayed around an impressive pool. Pros: exquisite design; quiet ambience; private section for guests on Ornos beach. Cons: isolated location; some rooms are small and lack views; those high room rates. Rooms from: €678 Ornos 2 km (1 mile) from Mykonos Town 22890/24094 www.kivotosclubhotel.gr Closed Nov.–Apr. 35 rooms Breakfast.
Fodor’sChoice Santa Marina. $$$$ HOTEL With a sandy private beach, Santa Marina is the most exclusive hotel on Mykonos—in lush, tranquil island settings. Pros: top luxury amenities, services, and restaurants; beautiful views; excellent spa offerings. Cons: very pricey; very upscale; transportation necessary to get to other sights around the island. Rooms from: €860 Ornos 22890/23220 www.santa-marina.gr 101 rooms Breakfast.
SOUTH COAST NOTIA AKTH
The first beach is Psarou, 4 km (2½ miles) southeast of Mykonos Town; the last beach is Elia, 12 km (7 miles) southeast of Mykonos Town.
The popular south coast beaches stand on their own; hotels, restaurants, cafés, and beach bars have sprung up around them, drawn to their turquoise seas. It’s the home of Psarou beach, where yachts are always moored in the distance and expensive sun beds are reserved in advance. Platis Gialos is popular with families and has its own little village behind it. But it’s truly known for what the international party crowd loves: the beach bar and club scene that revolves around Paraga, Paradise, and Super Paradise beaches. Agrari and Elia are less developed, have more nudity, and are quieter.
BEACHES
The south coast is where you’ll find the famous party beaches of Mykonos. Psarou draws the jet set while nearby Platis Yialos is popular with families. The young and sexy crowd heads to the Paraga, Paradise, and Super Paradise. While they used to be primarily nude beaches, that is not the case any longer, but they are still busy and popular and have parties starting almost every afternoon. Paradise draws the sexy straight crowd, Super Paradise the sexy LGBT crowd, though in truth there’s a lot of overlap. The rocky path between Paradise and Super Paradise, an hour’s rough walk, was once a sexual no-man’s land, but it is no longer. Farther along, Little Agrari and Elia are less developed, more nudist, and quieter, though they, too, have not escaped the voyeur’s wandering eye.
Agrari Beach. Agrari is a low-key beach with yellow pebble sand flanked by a low hill of small whitewashed buildings to the left and a rocky island hill to the right. Umbrellas and sun beds are available for rent. You can grab a snack, drinks, or a full meal at the beach’s own bar and restaurant, but there are more options just a walk away. Boats leave from Platis Gialos and Ornos bay. It’s also walkable via a footpath from neighboring Elia beach, attracting nudists who stay in certain areas. TIP → Driving east from Mykonos Town, watch out for a stunning view of the turquoise blue as you make that final turn to the beach. Amenities: food and drink; water sports. Best for: swimming. Agrari.
Elia Beach. Long, tranquil, and beautiful, Elia is a popular option for those who seek beach relaxation. Attracting a predominantly LGBT crowd, this southern beach is also popular with those who want to relax on a soft sand beach that’s protected from the north winds that sweep through the island from time to time. Umbrellas and sun beds are for rent and water-sports facilities pop up during the peak summer months. Dining options are plentiful with several cafés and tavernas close by. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets. Best for: nudists; swimming. Elia.
Paradise Beach. Famous the world over for its party scene, young, fun, international crowds hop straight to Paradise beach. There’s music, dancing, clubbing, and drinking at most hours of the day, but beach parties typically pick up around 4 pm and go on well into the next morning when everyone is dancing on tabletops, including sexy male and female models hired to get things moving. When partiers take a break, sun beds and umbrellas are available for lounging and a full line of restaurants and fast-food options provide nourishment. Scuba diving and water-sport rental shops are open for business. The bus from Mykonos Town frequents the beach often and on time in the peak of summer. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers. Paradise.
Paraga Beach. Small and stunning, and surrounded by a picturesque rocky coastline that juts out against a sparkling turquoise bay, Paraga beach is not only pretty, it’s also one of Mykonos’s liveliest party beaches. Several bars and beach clubs organize events every summer attracting a young, international crowd that gathers to mingle, dance, and drink. Hotels, rooms, and a large campground surround the beach. Umbrellas and chairs are available to rent at any of the beachside tavernas and cafés. A footpath to the east leads to neighboring party beach, Paradise, or offers you another view of the sea; it’s about a 10-minute walk. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers. Paraga 6 km (4 miles) southeast of Mykonos Town.
Platis Gialos Beach. FAMILY Spacious, sandy, and pleasant, Platis Gialos is a calm southern beach getaway that’s protected from the island’s strong summer winds. Kids enjoy playing in the shallow waters, while adults head to deeper waters to try out the numerous water-sports rental options. The array of taverns, restaurants, and cafés is perfect for any food break. The beach is lined with rental umbrellas and chairs, and getting to it is easy by Mykonos Town beach boat and bus service. TIP → You can drive here, too, but parking spaces may be hard to find. Amenities: food and drink; water sports. Best for: swimming. Platis Gialos.
Psarou Beach. With shiny yachts moored in its clear, pretty waters, sandy Psarou attracts vacationing international VIPs, Greek TV stars and singers, and the rich and/or famous. TIP → That oversized and high-priced beach bed and umbrella may be empty, but it may have been rented in advance by someone who doesn’t want you to have it. If you know someone, you can make an advance reservation for one, too. You might bump into someone’s bodyguard; several may be casing the beach. Sophisticated yet lively restaurants are plentiful, and they host afternoon and evening parties that are fun but not crazy. If you drive from Mykonos Town, a steep scenic road leads to the beach, but once you get there you’ll notice parking options are slim. Many opt for valet parking run by private companies. You can also reach Psarou by taking a short walk from nearby Platis Gialos or hopping on a boat one stop away at Ornos bay. Amenities: food and drink; parking (paid). Best for: partiers; swimming. Psarou 4 km (2½ miles) south of Mykonos Town.
Super Paradise Beach. Young and wild, gay and straight: All crowds head to Super Paradise to let loose. The stunning sandy beach is one plus, but the beach bars and clubs truly dominate the scene. Summer months mean daily late-afternoon beach parties, where drinks and dancing rule. Hired bikini-clad models move to the beat of the music to encourage a crazy party atmosphere that includes people dancing everywhere and anywhere they can. For those not in the party mood (yet), umbrellas and sun beds can be rented and dining options are available for a meal; Super Paradise Rooms is right on the beach for those who need a place to crash. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers; lifeguards; water sports. Best for: partiers. Super Paradise www.superparadise.com.gr.
WHERE TO EAT
Avli tou Thodori. $$ MEDITERRANEAN Overlooking pretty Platis Gialos beach, Avli tou Thodori offers beachfront dining in a minimalist Cycladic setting, where cuisine presentation is excellent and the selection eclectic. To start try the feta cheese wrapped in phyllo pastry covered with a light sweet sauce made with rakomelo (a spicy liqueur) and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Known for: good food for a beach restaurant; fresh prawns. Average main: €20 Platis Gialos www.avlitouthodori.gr Closed Nov.–Mar.
Nammos. $$$$ MODERN GREEK This beach restaurant has become the in spot for well-to-do Athenians and for Mykonians who want to strut a bit on fashionable Psarou beach. All open-air, white wood, stone, bamboo, and palm trees, it serves Mediterranean fusion cuisine (their words) and is especially popular for a late lunch. Known for: late lunch; fresh sushi; good desserts. Average main: €50 Psarou beach, Psarou 22890/22440 www.nammos.gr.
NIGHTLIFE
Paradise Club. The international, young party people that flock to Mykonos pack this glamorous open-air club every summer season. It has three stages that are designed to feature the world’s best DJs who fill its lineup each year. Paradise Club features a VIP area and a swimming pool. Paradise beach, Paradise www.paradiseclubmykonos.com.
Tropicana Beach Bar. One of the most popular beach bars in Mykonos is set on Paradise beach where the party starts every afternoon in the peak summer season. The international, young, and looking-for-fun head to the outdoor bar to dance in the sand, on tables, and by the sea. The music is loud, mainstream, and fun, the people are happy, and the cocktail list is long. Paradise 22890/26990 www.tropicanamykonos.com.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
DIVING
Mykonos Diving Center. Located on Paradise beach, the Mykonos Dive Center offers a range of excursions for certified divers, and training for all levels and experiences. They lead excursions from 30 different points on the island. Paradise beach, Paradise 22890/24808 www.dive.gr.
SOUTHEAST COAST ΝΟΤΙΟΑΝΑΤΟΛΙΚΗ ΑΚΤΗ
The first beach is Kalo Livadi, 11 km (7 miles) southeast of Mykonos Town; the last beach is Kalafatis beach, 12 km (7½ miles) southeast of Mykonos Town.
The southeastern beaches, the farthest beaches from Mykonos Town, are favorites for those looking for something calm, yet organized, such as Kalo Livadi. Water-sports lovers head to Kalafatis, which is well organized for any sport.
BEACHES
Ayia Anna Beach. Somewhat hidden in the shadow of Kalafatis beach, Ayia Anna is a low-key beach, named after a little whitewashed chapel nearby. It’s a place where you can observe windsurfers in the distance as fishing boats bob calmly in the wind-protected waters. Two hills protect the bay—the locals lovingly call them divounia, or Aphrodite’s breasts. Summer beach chair and umbrella rentals are available and there is a handful of tavernas and cafés. There are also two easy hiking paths to neighboring Platis Gialos and Paraga beaches. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Ayia Anna.
Kalafatis Beach. This long stretch of picturesque beach with a line of shady trees is known for the water sports and windsurfing crowds it attracts. The back road has an array of hotels, rooms-for-rent, tavernas, and beach bars, as well as a well-known windsurfing school and water-sports rental shop. A small dock to the left side of the beach houses a tavern, beach bar, and a diving center office that leads excursions out to nearby uninhabited islands. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking; windsurfing. Kalafati.
Kalo Livadi Beach. FAMILY Mykonos’s characteristic rocky hills surround Kalo Livadi’s long sandy beach, at the edge of the island valley from which it got its name, meaning “good valley.” Families head here to spend the day playing with their kids in the shallow waters and take a break at one of the many restaurants surrounding the beach. In summer the beach is divided into several areas that feature various styles of sun beds and umbrellas for rent. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming. Kalo Livadi.
Lia Beach. By Mykonos standards, Lia beach is considered tranquil and quiet, perhaps because it’s one of the farthest organized beaches from Mykonos Town. You can drive to the beach or get off at the last stop on the Mykonos Town boat that brings people to the beaches. Rows of beach chairs and umbrellas line the pebble and sand beach, which is surrounded on both sides by a rocky coastline and the typical bare yet beautiful hills of the island. Divers and snorkelers head here to explore the turquoise waters. TIP → Once you’re set up, see if you can spot Naxos and Paros in the distance. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: solitude; snorkeling; swimming. Lia Beach 14 km (8½ miles) east of Mykonos Town.
WHERE TO STAY
Aphrodite Beach Hotel. $$$ RESORT FAMILY Water-sports lovers head here to combine their passion for sport with the upscale facilities of this resort located right off the wind-blessed beach of Kalafatis. Pros: fantastic location for water-sports lovers who want to be close to the beach; family-friendly; nice and relaxing sea views. Cons: far from Mykonos Town; away from Mykonos scene; a car may be necessary to see the sights of the island. Rooms from: €250 Kalafati 22890/71367 www.aphrodite-mykonos.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 148 rooms Breakfast.
Pietra e Mare. $$$$ HOTEL Stacked on a quiet hillside by picturesque Kalo Livadi beach, this adults-only resort offers panoramic views and a chic yet laid-back atmosphere. Pros: good service; a combination of traditional and chic design; pool with a view. Cons: balconies are not private, may be shared; not much in Kalo Livadi compared to other beach resort towns; pricey in high season. Rooms from: €500 Kalo Livadi 22890/71152 www.pietraemaremykonos.com Closed Nov.–Apr. 31 rooms Breakfast.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
SCUBA DIVING
Kalafati Dive Center. For 20 years, the Kalafati Dive Center has offered diving excursions with excellent visibility around Mykonos, including various wrecks. Courses are available for beginners, advanced divers, and all those in between. Snorkeling trips are also available, as are equipment rental, children’s courses, and private boat excursions. Kalafati 22890/71677 www.mykonos-diving.com.
WATER SPORTS
Water-sports facilities, offering different types of equipment, can be found at many beaches. The main hub for windsurfing in the southern part of the island is at Kalafati beach.
Kalafati Watersports. All the water-sports rentals to enjoy Kalafati’s famous water-loving conditions can be found at Kalafati Watersports. Water ski, wakeboard, extreme tubes, and banana boat excursions are available as well as speedboat island tours. TIP → Book in advance during the peak summer season. Kalafati 69452/61242 cell phone www.mykonoswatersports.com.
WINDSURFING
Pezi Huber Windsurfing. Located right on the famed water-sports beach of Kalafati, where the meltemi winds blow “loyal and faithful,” Pezi Huber runs his own windsurfing shop. He offers individual and group lessons for beginners and rentals for windsurfing. Rentals for stand-up paddleboards and other surf gear are also available. Kalafati beach, Kalafati 22890/72345 www.pezi-huber.com.
ANO MERA ανω Μερα
8 km (5 miles) east of Mykonos Town.
Inland, the little town of Ano Mera has a couple of quiet tavernas and a monastery. The town only lights up during the monastery’s festival day on August 15.
Monastery of the Panayia Tourliani. Monastery buffs should head to Ano Mera, a village in the central part of the island, where the Monastery of the Panayia Tourliani, founded in 1580 and dedicated to the protectress of Mykonos, stands in the central square. Its massive baroque iconostasis (altar screen), made in 1775 by Florentine artists, has small icons carefully placed amid the wooden structure’s painted green, red, and gold-leaf flowers. At the top are carved figures of the apostles and large icons depicting New Testament scenes. The hanging incense holders with silver molded dragons holding red eggs in their mouths show an Eastern influence. In the hall of the monastery, an interesting museum displays embroideries, liturgical vestments, and wood carvings. A good taverna is across the street. The monastery’s big festival—hundreds attend—is on August 15. On central square 22890/71249.
NORTH COAST BOPEIA AKTH
The first beach is Ftelia, 7 km (4½ miles) southeast of Mykonos Town; the last beach is Ayios Sostis, 8 km (5 miles) northeast of Mykonos Town.
The beaches along the north coast are blessed with consistent winds suitable for windsurfing, and Ftelia is the island’s center for that sport. But on calm days, Panormos and Ayios Sostis are worth a trip; both offer beautiful beach vistas without the crowds. If you are looking for uncrowded beaches (even in the busy summer season), these are your best bets.
BEACHES
Ayios Sostis Beach. All you’ll find at Ayios Sostis is turquoise waters lapping against the sand and a small-pebble coast. Without natural shade, or any touristic development whatsoever, beachgoers who need shade should come prepared. This is a beach with hidden elements though, so be sure to go in search of the small unnamed beach tucked in between it and neighboring Panormos, which is accessible by footpath. Off another path that leads to the main road, you’ll find the small church that this beach is named after. Next to the church, a crowd may gather outside a nearby garden tavern you might otherwise miss if it wasn’t the peak summer season in July and August. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: solitude; swimming. Ayios Sostis 12 km (7½ miles) north of Mykonos Town.
Ftelia Beach. Ftelia is famous for its winds, which attract windsurfers who love to test out the turquoise waters. The beach’s smooth sand is free of any sun beds or umbrellas, so when you approach it, all you’ll see is a wide-open stretch of yellow sand—if the wind isn’t blowing it all about. Several tavernas and rooms-for-rent dot the area but are not directly on the beach. Amenities: none. Best for: windsurfing. Ftelia.
Panormos Beach. FAMILY A fine golden-sand beach with turquoise waters, Panormos caters to all kinds of beachgoers. Nudists head to the far right for peace and quiet, but there’s an all-day beach bar and restaurant that offers music, food, and drinks to the left; it’s popular with families, couples, and singles. This is a great spot when the southern winds attack; otherwise it’s positioned to get the full brunt of the northern island winds. Water-sports equipment, umbrellas, and chairs are available for rent. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: nudists; swimming. Panormos Beach.
WHERE TO EAT
Kiki’s Taverna. $$ GREEK With no telephone number or signs, this simple little family-run garden taverna would likely be missed if there wasn’t a constant line of people waiting to grab a table—in the summer, expect to wait up to an hour. The sea views of Ayios Sostis beach are relaxing, and the perfect thing to gaze at as you wait for your meat and fish dishes that will be expertly grilled on a barbecue. Known for: pork cutlet; Greek salads and dips; long lines. Average main: €25 Ayios Sostis No credit cards.