WELCOME TO CRETE

TOP REASONS TO GO

Minoan Myths: Explore the wonders of the 3,500-year-old civilization that flourished at Knossos.

Beaches: With its sandy strands and craggy coves, Crete has an array of fantastic beaches, all lapped by clean, turquoise waters.

Charming Cities: Chania, Rethmynon, and Ayios Nikolaos will seduce with their Venetian and Ottoman architecture, narrow lanes, and shady squares.

The Outdoor Life: From snowcapped peaks to deep gorges, wild Crete offers dramatic escapes for those who want to get away from it all.

Luxury Living: Live like royalty in a former Venetian palace, or indulge in the unabashed luxury of some of Greece’s finest resort hotels.

Crete is long and narrow, approximately 257 km (160 miles) long and only 60 km (37 miles) at its widest. Most of the development is along the north shore; the southern coast largely remains blessedly unspoiled. The island’s three major cities, Heraklion, Rethymnon, and Chania, are in the north and are connected by the island’s major highway, an east–west route that traverses most of the north coast. Heraklion and Chania are served by ferry from Piraeus, and both have international airports. By car or bus, it’s easy to reach other parts of the island from these gateways.

Eastern Crete. Knossos, the most spectacular of the Minoan palaces and Crete’s most popular attraction, is here in the east. Just as this sprawling complex was the hub of island civilization 3,500 years ago, nearby Heraklion is Crete’s bustling modern capital, and farther east along the coast is the Elounda peninsula, the island’s epicenter of luxury, where some of the world’s most sumptuous resort getaways are tucked along a stunning shoreline. The east isn’t all clamor, glamour, and glitz, though; the beach at Vai is just one example of the natural beauty that abounds here in the east, and in mountain villages like those on the Lasithi Plateau, old traditions continue to thrive.

Western Crete. The scenery gets more rugged as you head west, where the White mountains pierce the blue sky with snowcapped peaks and then plunge into the Libyan sea along dramatic, rocky shorelines. Mountain scenery and remote seacoast villages—some, like Loutro, accessible only on foot or by boat—attract many visitors to the west. Others come to enjoy the urban pleasures of Rethymnon and Chania, gracious cities that owe their harbors, architectural jewels, and exotic charms to Venetian and Ottoman occupiers.

Updated by Liam McCaffrey

Crete is a land of myth and imagination, where Theseus slayed the Minotaur, where Daedulus and Icarus set off on their ill-fated flight, and where Zorba danced on the sand. More than any other island, it is Greece in a nutshell—mountains, split with deep gorges and honeycombed with caves, rise in sheer walls from the sea; snowcapped peaks loom behind sandy shorelines, vineyards, and olive groves; delightful cities and quaint villages front the miles of beaches that fringe the coast. Yet it is still the mystery surrounding Europe’s first civilization and empire that draws the great majority of visitors to Crete and its world-famous Minoan palaces.

Around 1500 BC, while the rest of Europe was still in the grip of primitive barbarity, one of the most brilliant civilizations the world was ever to know approached its final climax, one that was breathtakingly uncovered through the late 19th-century excavations of Sir Arthur Evans. He determined that the Minoans, prehistoric Cretans, had founded Europe’s first urban culture as far back as the 3rd millennium BC, and the island’s rich legacy of art and architecture strongly influenced both mainland Greece and the Aegean islands in the Bronze Age. From around 1900 BC the Minoan palaces at Knossos (near present-day Heraklion), Malia, Phaistos, and elsewhere were centers of political power, religious authority, and economic activity—all concentrated in one sprawling complex of buildings. Their administration seems to have had much in common with contemporary cultures in Egypt and Mesopotamia. What set the Minoans apart from the rest of the Bronze Age world was their art. It was lively and naturalistic, and they excelled in miniature techniques. From the scenes illustrated on their frescoes, stone vases, seal stones, and signet rings, it is possible to build a picture of a productive, well-regulated society. Yet new research suggests that prehistoric Crete was not a peaceful place; there may have been years of warfare before Knossos became the island’s dominant power, in around 1600 BC. It is now thought that political upheaval, rather than the devastating volcanic eruption on the island of Santorini, triggered the violent downfall of the palace civilization around 1450 BC.

But there are many memorable places in Crete that belong to a more recent past, one measured in centuries and not millennia. Other invaders and occupiers—Roman colonists, the Byzantines, Arab invaders, Venetian colonists, and Ottoman pashas—have all left their mark on Heraklion, Chania, Rethymnon, and other towns and villages throughout the island. Today Crete welcomes outsiders who delight in its splendid beaches, charming Old Town quarters, and array of splendid landscapes. Openly inviting to guests who want to experience the real Greece, Cretans remain family oriented and rooted in tradition, and you’ll find that one of the greatest pleasures on Crete is immersing yourself in the island’s lifestyle.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

The best times to visit Crete are May, when every outcrop of rock is ablaze with brilliant wildflowers and the sea is warm enough for a brisk dip, or September and October, when the sea is still warm and the light golden but piercingly clear.

Most of Crete, outside the major cities, is really only noticeably busy from mid-July through August, when the main sights and towns on the north coast come close to overflowing with tourists. Beaches get busier, and reservations can be essential in the most popular restaurants, too. Even in the height of summer, though, you can enjoy many parts of the east, west, and south coasts without feeling oppressed by crowds.

Crete can also be a pleasure in winter, when you can visit the museums and archaeological sites and enjoy the island’s delightful towns without the crush of crowds. Remember, though, that rainfall can be heavy in January and February, and note that many hotels and restaurants, especially resorts, close from late October or November through mid-April or May.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Inviting as Crete’s beaches may be, there is much more to the island than lazing on the sand. Archaeological sites in Crete open at 8 or 8:30 in summer, so get an early start to wander through the ruins before the sun is blazing. You may also want to visit some of the folklife museums that pay homage to the island’s traditional past, or simply head out and explore the magnificent mountain and coastal scenery. An evening should begin with a stroll around the shady squares that grace every Cretan town and village, or along a waterfront promenade—those in Chania, Ayios Nikolaos, and Sitia are especially picturesque and jammed with locals. Most evenings are spent over a long meal, almost always eaten outdoors in the warm weather. Retire for a contemplative drink of raki or, for entertainment, seek out a kentron, a taverna that hosts traditional Cretan music and dancing. The star performer is the lyra player, who can extract a surprisingly subtle sound from the small pear-shaped instrument, held upright on the thigh and played with a bow.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

AIR TRAVEL

Olympic Air connects Athens, and other islands, with Heraklion, Chania, and Sitia. Aegean Airlines flies between Athens and Heraklion and Chania. Sky Express flies to both Heraklion and Sitia. Ryanair connects Chania to Athens, and to other European destinations. Fares on all are highest in the summer, often double that of a ferry

The principal arrival point on Crete is Heraklion Airport, where up to 20 flights daily arrive from Athens and daily flights arrive from throughout Greece. Heraklion is also serviced directly by flights from other European cities.

There are several daily flights from Athens and, in summer, other European cities to Chania Airport, and several per week from Athens to Sitia, which is also connected to the Dodecanese islands with a few weekly flights in summer.

A bus just outside Heraklion Airport takes you to the town center. Tickets are sold from a kiosk next to the bus stop; the fare is €1.20. From Chania Airport, buses run hourly to the center for €2.50, but these are not running 24 hours. Tickets are available inside the airport. Cabs line up outside all airports to meet flights; the fare into the respective towns is about €10 for Heraklion, €23 for Chania, and €5 for Sitia.

Airport Contacts Chania Airport (CHQ). 15 km (9 miles) northeast of Chania, off the road to Sterne 28210/83800 www.chq-airport.gr. Heraklion Airport (Kazantzakis International Airport) (HER). 5 km (3 miles) east of town, off the road to Gournes 28103/97800. Sitia Airport (JSH). 1 km (½ mile) northwest of town, off the main coast road 28430/24424.

BIKE AND MOPED TRAVEL

You’ll find rentals in just about any town on the tourist trail. Expect to pay about €25 a day for a 50cc moped, for which you will need to present only a valid driver’s license; law requires a motorcycle license to rent larger bikes. Fees usually cover insurance, but only for repairs to the bike, and usually with a deductible of at least €500. The law mandates that you wear a helmet, despite what you may think from observing the locals. Be careful—the casualty departments of hospitals are full of over-eager tourists every year.

Bicycles are available to rent in most resorts, and are offered by many hotels and car rental companies. For the more adventurous, mountain bike and road tours are available.

Contacts Blue Sea Rentals. Kosmo Zoutou 5–7, Heraklion 28102/41097 www.bluesearentals.com. Olympic Bike. Adelianos Kampos 32, Rethymnon 28310/72383 www.olympicbike.com.

BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL

Heraklion and Souda bay (5 km/3 miles east of Chania) are the island’s main ports. Most ferries are overnight, but there are daytime ferries from Piraeus to Heraklion and Chania in the summer. Ferries also connect Crete with other islands, mostly those in the Cyclades and Dodecanese. Service includes fast-ferries between Santorini and Heraklion (cutting travel time to just under two hours) and a ferry linking Sitia with the Dodecanese islands of Kassos, Karpathos, and Rhodes. There is also a ferry linking Sitia and Heraklion. There is an irregular service from Kalamata and Gythion in the Peloponnese to Kissamos (Kastelli) in the far west of the island. Ships also sail from Heraklion to Limassol, in Cyprus, and to Haifa, Israel. On the overnight runs, you can book either a berth or an airplane-style seat, and there are usually cafeterias, dining rooms, shops, and other services on board. The most economical berth accommodations are in four-berth cabins, which are relatively spacious and comfortable and are equipped with bathrooms.

A one-way fare from Piraeus to Heraklion or Chania without accommodations costs about €38, and from about €55 with accommodations. A small discount is given for round-trip tickets. Car fares are about €80 each way, depending on vehicle size. In July and August, a boat service around the Samaria gorge operates along the southwest coast from Hora Sfakion to Loutro, Ayia Roumeli, Souyia, Lissos, and Paleochora, the main resort on the southwest coast. Ferries also sail from Paleochora to Gavdos, the most southerly island in Europe, and from Ierapetra to Krissi, an island also to the south. Most travel agencies sell tickets for all ferries and hydrofoils. Make reservations several days in advance during the July to August high season.

Ferry routes change often, but among the lines that serve Crete are Anek (Piraeus to Heraklion and Chania), Blue Star Ferries (Piraeus to Heraklion), Cretan Lines (Piraeus to Heraklion), Hellenic Seaways (Heraklion to Santorini, Paros, and Mykonos), and Minoan Lines (Piraeus to Heraklion). Ferry schedules are best checked at www.ferries.gr.

Contacts Anek Lines. Akti Konili 24, Piraeus 21041/97470 www.anek.gr.

BUS TRAVEL

You can find schedules and book seats in advance at bus stations, and tourist offices are also well equipped with information about service. As efficient as the bus network is, you might have a hard time getting out of Heraklion, with its confusing number of stations. You’ll find the bus station for western Crete, Bus Station A, opposite the port; this also serves places on the north coast east of Heraklion, such as Hersonissos, Archanes, Sitia, Ayios Nikolaos, and the Lasithi Plateau. The station for the south, Bus Station B, is outside the Chania Gate to the right of the Archaeological Museum; this is where you get buses for such places as Matala and Phaistos. Ask someone at the tourist information office to tell you exactly where to find your bus and to show you the spot on a map. You’ll need to make reservations in advance for all buses. Alternatively, travel agents offer private bus transfers to the popular sights. (see Tour Options)

CAR TRAVEL

Roads on Crete are not too congested, yet the accident rate is high compared to other parts of Europe. Driving in the main towns can be nerve-racking, to say the least. Most road signs are in Greek and English, though signage is often nonexistent or inadequate. Be sure to carry a road map or GPS at all times, and to stop and ask directions when the need arises—otherwise, you may drive miles out of your way. Gas stations are not plentiful outside the big towns, and gasoline is more expensive in Crete than it is in the United States and on par with prices elsewhere in Europe—expect to pay about €1.55 a liter (about $6.45 a gallon).

Drive defensively wherever you are, as Cretan drivers are aggressive and liable to ignore the rules of the road. Sheep and goats frequently stray onto the roads, with or without their shepherd or sheepdog. In July and August, tourists on motor scooters can be a hazard. Night driving is not advisable.

As for car rentals, you can arrange beforehand with a major agency in the United States or in Athens to pick up a car on arrival in Crete, or work through one of the many local car-rental agencies that have offices in the airports and in the cities, as well as in some resort villages. For the most part, these local agencies are extremely reliable, provide courteous service, and charge very low rates. Many, such as the excellent Kappa Car Rental, will meet your ship or plane, or come to your hotel, and drop you off again at no extra charge.

Even without advance reservations, expect to pay about €40 or less a day in high season for a medium-size car with unlimited mileage. Weekly prices are negotiable, but with unlimited mileage rentals start at about €200 in summer. At many agencies, you are responsible for a €500 deductible for any damage, regardless of your insurance coverage.

Big international agencies, including Avis, Hertz, and Sixt, are well represented on Crete (see Car Travel in Travel Smart for contact information)

Contacts Kappa Car Rental. Chania Airport, Chania 28210/60120 www.auto-kappa.gr.

HOTELS

Some of Greece’s finest resorts line the shores of Elounda peninsula, offering sumptuous surroundings and exquisite service. Although the atmosphere at these resorts is more international than Greek, in other places you’ll find authentic surroundings in the Venetian palaces and old mansions that are being sensitively restored as small hotels, especially in Chania and Rethymnon. Many of the better hotels on Crete offer special rates and packages through their websites, and it’s always worthwhile to check out what discounts might be available during your stay—special rates often bring even a luxurious hotel into affordable range, especially outside high season. For a more rustic yet authentic experience on Crete, opt for simple, whitewashed, tile-floor rooms with rustic pine furniture in the ubiquitous “room to rent” establishments in mountain and seaside villages. Another common term is studio, which implies the presence of a kitchen or basic cooking facilities. Standards of cleanliness are high in Crete, and service is almost always friendly.

RESTAURANTS

The Cretan diet has been the subject of much speculation recently. The reliance on fresh fruit and vegetables produced through the longest growing season in Europe, together with dairy, pulses, and mountain herbs, augmented by small amounts of fish and meat, all cooked in olive oil, has led to some of the healthiest, longest-living people on the planet. Organic is a way of life here, rather than a buzzword. Cretans are justifiably proud of their food, and you will eat well

Of course, all the Greek classics are present, but it is worth looking out for Cretan specialties that reflect the diverse heritage of the island. Dakos is a staple—twice-baked barley bread topped with tomatoes, crumbled Mizithra, a creamy soft white cheese, drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with oregano. Pies are ubiquitous; Boureki, with zucchini and potato, is the classic, but fennel, greens, and Sfakianes Pitas, with cheese and honey, are always popular. The olive oil is renowned for its quality, and is liberally applied; consider taking some back home, it makes a great reminder of your journey.

Meat and fish are often simply grilled, with lamb and goat served as a stew such as Tsigariasto, a western Crete speciality slow-cooked in olive oil. A common way to eat is to sample the mezedes offered—small plates to share. Like a Greek version of tapas, it is a great way to sample the island’s differing delicacies. Lunch is a fairly flexible concept; often taken between 1 and 4. Similarly, dinner is a movable feast that often starts at 10:30; indeed, as the tourists are finishing their meals, locals are just preparing to go out.

Cretan wine has made great inroads recently, and the quality is ever increasing. Boutique wineries are flourishing, offering neglected indigenous varieties. The house wine, confusingly sold by the kilo, is often not a bad option; the whites tend to be more palatable. The island’s main alcoholic staple, however, is Tsikouthia, commonly known as raki. This local firewater is an accompaniment to every occasion from breakfast to weddings! As a gesture of hospitality, restaurants will often offer a small flask, along with a small sweet, at the end of a meal.

Restaurant and hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

TOUR OPTIONS

Most travel agents can arrange for personal guides.

BUS TOURS

Resort hotels and large agents organize guided tours in air-conditioned buses to the main Minoan sites; excursions to spectacular beaches such as Vai in the northeast and Elafonisi and Balos in the west; and trips to Santorini and to closer islands such as Spinalonga, a former leper colony off Ayios Nikolaos.

Crete Travel. Crete Travel is an excellent source for tour information, with insights into many of the island’s attractions and tours, including hiking expeditions, gastronomic excursions, wine tastings, and visits to out-of-the-way monasteries, as well as the more obvious sights. Tailor-made itineraries are a specialty; if you ever wanted to make cheese in a shepherd’s hut up a mountain or dreamed of skippering your own yacht, this is the place to come. Kallipoleos 11, Heraklion 28102/13445 www.cretetravel.com.

HIKING TOURS

Crete is excellent hiking terrain, and many trails crisscross the mountains and gorges, especially in the southwest. The Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO or EOT) is a source of information.

Alpine Travel. This outfitter offers one-day, one-week, and two-week hiking tours throughout Crete, and arranges transportation and accommodations for individual trekkers as well. Chania 28210/50939 www.alpine.gr.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Tourist offices are more plentiful, and more helpful, on Crete than they are in many other parts of Greece. Offices of the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO or EOT), in the major towns, are open daily 8–2 and 3–8:30. The municipalities of Ayios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Ierapetra operate their own tourist offices, and these provide a wealth of information on the towns and surrounding regions, as well as help with accommodations and local tours; most keep long summer hours, open daily 8:30 am–9 pm.

EASTERN CRETE ΑΝΑΤΟΛΙΚΗ ΚΡΗΤΗ

Eastern Crete includes the towns and cities of Heraklion, Ayios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Ierapetra, as well as the archaeological sites of Knossos and Malia. Natural wonders lie amid these man-made places, including the palm-fringed beach at Vai and the Lasithi Plateau, and other inland plains and highlands are studded with villages where life goes on untouched by the hedonism of the coastal resorts. You may well make first landfall in Heraklion, the island’s major port. You’ll want to spend time here to visit the excellent Archaeological Museum and Knossos, but you’re likely to have a more relaxing experience in Ayios Nikolaos, a charming and animated port town, or in the resorts on the stunning Elounda peninsula. Sitia is slowly emerging as a visitor destination, but it still is, in essence, a provincial town that happens to have tourists, rather than a major destination. A pretty harbor front that feels almost Cycladic with whitewashed buildings and narrow streets bears exploration, but it serves best as a gateway to the beautiful, undiscovered eastern end of the island.

HERAKLION Ηρακλειο

175 km (109 miles) south of Piraeus harbor in Athens, 69 km (43 miles) west of Ayios Nikolaos, 78 km (49 miles) east of Rethymnon.

In Minoan times, Crete’s largest city, the fifth-largest city in Greece, was a harbor for Knossos, the grandest palace and effective power center of prehistoric Crete. The Bronze Age remains were built over long ago, and now Heraklion (also known as Iraklion), with more than 150,000 inhabitants, stretches far beyond even the Venetian walls. Heraklion is not immediately appealing: it’s a sprawling and untidy collection of apartment blocks and busy roadways, often cast as the ugly sister to Chania’s Cinderella. Many travelers looking for Crete’s more rugged pleasures bypass the island’s capital altogether, but the city’s renowned Archaeological Museum and the nearby Palace of Knossos make Heraklion a mandatory stop for anyone even remotely interested in ancient civilizations.

Besides, at closer look, Heraklion is not without its charms. A walk down Daidalou and the other pedestrians-only streets provides plenty of amusements, and the city has more than its share of outdoor cafés where you can sit and watch life unfold. Seaside promenades and narrow lanes that run off them can be quite animated, thanks to ongoing restoration, and the inner harbor dominated by the Koules, a sturdy Venetian fortress, is richly evocative of the island’s storied past.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Heraklion is Crete’s major air hub, and Kazantzakis Airport has been greatly expanded in recent years. Flights on Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines arrive almost hourly from Athens, and many flights from other European cities use the airport. The airport is only about 5 km (3 miles) east of the city.

Frequent ferries connect Heraklion to Piraeus (at least five daily, including daytime ferries from May through August), Thessaloniki (three times weekly in the high season), and the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, and others). Operators and schedules change frequently; for the latest information, check on your route at www.ferries.gr, or stop by one of the travel agencies that operate near all Greek ports.

Heraklion is Crete’s hub for bus travel, and you can get just about anywhere on the island from any of the city’s bus terminals. Service to the main towns—Ayios Nikolaos, Rethymnon, and Chania—runs hourly. Buses to all these towns arrive at and leave from the two adjacent terminals on the harbor, just east of the city center.

EXPLORING

If you have just a day in Heraklion, your time will be tight. Get an early start and head for the Archaeological Museum before the crowds descend. Then, spend a couple of hours in the morning walking around the city, stepping into the churches if they’re open and poking around the lively market. Nearby Knossos will easily occupy most of the afternoon. If you’re staying overnight in or near Heraklion, take an evening stroll in the busy area around Ta Leontaria and Kornarou Square; half the population seems to converge here.

Heraklion’s ever-improving road network is making it easier to avoid the all but impassable city center; however, if you’re spending any time at all in Heraklion, it’s best to wait until you are leaving the city to pick up a rental car.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’sChoice Heraklion Archaeological Museum. Standing in a class of its own, this museum guards practically all of the Minoan treasures uncovered in the legendary excavations of the Palace of Knossos and other monuments of Minoan civilization. These amazing artifacts, many 3,000 years old, were brought to light in 20th-century excavations by famed British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans and are shown off in handsome modern galleries. It’s best to visit the museum first thing in the morning, before the tour buses arrive, or in late afternoon, once they pull away. Top treasures include the famous seal stones, many inscribed with Linear B script, discovered and deciphered by Evans around the turn of the 20th century. The most stunning and mysterious seal stone is the so-called Phaistos Disk, found at Phaistos Palace in the south, its purpose unknown. (Linear B script is now recognized as an early form of Greek, but the earlier Linear A script that appears on clay tablets and that of the Phaistos Disk have yet to be deciphered.)

Perhaps the most arresting exhibits, though, are the sophisticated frescoes, restored fragments of which were found in Knossos. They depict broad-shouldered, slim-waisted youths, their large eyes fixed with an enigmatic expression on the Prince of the Lilies; ritual processions and scenes from the bullring, with young men and women somersaulting over the back of a charging bull; and groups of court ladies, whose flounced skirts led a French archaeologist to exclaim in surprise, “Des Parisiennes!,” a name still applied to this striking fresco.

Even before great palaces with frescoes were being built around 1900 BC, the prehistoric Cretans excelled at metalworking and carving stone vases, and they were also skilled at producing pottery, such as the eggshell-thin Kamares ware decorated in delicate abstract designs. Other specialties were miniature work such as the superbly crafted jewelry and the colored seal stones that are carved with lively scenes of people and animals. Though naturalism and an air of informality distinguish much Minoan art from that of contemporary Bronze Age cultures elsewhere in the eastern Mediterranean, you can also see a number of heavy, rococo set pieces, such as the fruit stand with a toothed rim and the punch bowl with appliquéd flowers.

The Minoans’ talents at modeling in stone, ivory, and a kind of glass paste known as faience peaked in the later palace period (1700–1450 BC). A famous rhyton, a vase for pouring libations, carved from dark serpentine in the shape of a bull’s head, has eyes made of red jasper and clear rock crystal with horns of gilded wood. An ivory acrobat—perhaps a bull-leaper—and two bare-breasted faience goddesses in flounced skirts holding wriggling snakes were among a group of treasures hidden beneath the floor of a storeroom at Knossos. Bull-leaping, whether a religious rite or a favorite sport, inspired some of the most memorable images in Minoan art. Note, also, the three vases, probably originally covered in gold leaf, from Ayia Triada that are carved with scenes of Minoan life thought to be rendered by artists from Knossos: boxing contests, a harvest-home ceremony, and a Minoan official taking delivery of a consignment of hides. The most stunning rhyton of all, from Zakro, is made of rock crystal. Xanthoudidou and Hatzidaki 28102/279000 www.heraklionmuseum.gr €10; combined ticket for museum and Palace of Knossos €16.

Fodor’sChoice Historical Museum of Crete. An imposing mansion houses a varied collection of Early Christian and Byzantine sculptures, Venetian and Ottoman stonework, artifacts of war, and rustic folklife items. The museum provides a wonderful introduction to Cretan culture, and is the only place in Crete to display the work of famed native son El Greco (Domenikos Theotocopoulos), who left the island—then part of the Venetian Republic—for Italy and then Spain around 1567; his Baptism of Christ and View of Mount Sinai and the Monastery of St. Catherine hang amid frescoes, icons, and other Byzantine pieces. Upon entering, look out for the Lion of St. Mark sculpture, with an inscription that says in Latin “I protect the kingdom of Crete.” Left of the entrance is a room stuffed with memorabilia from Crete’s bloody revolutionary past: weapons, portraits of mustachioed warrior chieftains, and the flag of the short-lived independent Cretan state set up in 1898. The 19th-century banner in front of the staircase sums up the spirit of Cretan rebellion against the Turks: eleftheria o thanatos (“Freedom or Death”). A small section is dedicated to World War II and the German invasion of 1941. Upstairs, look in on a room arranged as the study of Crete’s most famous writer, Nikos Kazantzakis (1883–1957), the author of Zorba the Greek and an epic poem, The Odyssey, a Modern Sequel; he was born in Heraklion and is buried here, just inside the section of the walls known as the Martinengo. The top floor contains a stunning collection of Cretan textiles, including the brilliant scarlet weavings typical of the island’s traditional handwork, and another room arranged as a domestic interior of the early 1900s. Sofokli Venizelou 27 28102/83219 www.historical-museum.gr €5 Closed Sun.

Koules. Heraklion’s inner harbor, where fishing boats land their catch and yachts are moored, is dominated by this massive fortress so named by the Turks but, in fact, built by the Venetians as the Castello del Molo in the 16th century and decorated with the three stone lions of St. Mark, the symbol of Venetian imperialism. On the east side of the fortress are the vaulted arsenal; here Venetian galleys were repaired and refitted, and timber, cheeses, and sweet malmsey wine were loaded for the three-week voyage to Venice. The view from the battlements takes in the inner as well as the outer harbor, where freighters and passenger ferries drop anchor, to the south rises Mt. Iouktas and, to the west, the pointed peak of Mt. Stromboulas. Inner harbor 28102/43559 www.koules.efah.gr €2.

Loggia. A gathering place for the island’s Venetian nobility, this open-air arcade, with a meeting hall above, was built in the early 17th century by Francesco Basilicata, an Italian architect. Now restored to its original Palladian elegance, it adjoins the old Venetian Armory, now the City Hall. Avgoustou 25.

NEED A BREAK

Kir-Kor 1922. Stop into this venerable old bougatsa shop for an envelope of flaky pastry that’s either filled with a sweet, creamy filling and dusted with cinnamon and sugar, or stuffed with soft white cheese. A double portion served warm with Greek coffee is a nice treat. Known for: Greek pastries; Cretan-style yogurt; opening early. Platia Liontarion 28102/42705.

Martinengo Bastion. Six bastions shaped like arrowheads jut out from the well-preserved Venetian walls. Martinengo is the largest, designed by Micheli Sanmicheli in the 16th century to keep out Barbary pirates and Turkish invaders. When the Turks overran Crete in 1648, the garrison at Heraklion held out for another 21 years in one of the longest sieges in European history. General Francesco Morosini finally surrendered the city to the Turkish Grand Vizier in September 1669. He was allowed to sail home to Venice with the city’s archives and such precious relics as the skull of Ayios Titos—which was not returned until 1966. Literary pilgrims come to the Martinengo to visit the burial place of writer Nikos Kazantzakis. The grave is a plain stone slab marked by a weathered wooden cross. The inscription, from his writings, reads: “I fear nothing, I hope for nothing, I am free.” Heraklion In walls south of city center, off Plastira.

Beaches in Crete

With hundreds of miles of dramatic coastline, Crete has an almost endless supply of beaches. Many are soft and powdery, some are action-packed with water sports, and others are blissfully untrammeled. The most celebrated bookend the island: palm-shaded Vai to the east and Elafonisi to the west.

Lovers of sand and surf quickly discover that there are really two distinct types of beaches on Crete: the highly developed strands on the north coast and the rugged getaway beaches on the south coast. Northern beaches stretch along the flat, sandy coastal plain between the island’s major cities and are easily reached by the east–west national highway, as well as by an extensive bus network. Most are packed with umbrellas and sun beds and backed by hotels.

Beaches on the south coast are tucked into coves and bays, often at the end of poor roads; a rental car and a good map are essential to explore them. Strike it lucky and you will see barely a soul, even in peak season.

Plateia Eleftherias. The city’s biggest square is paved in marble and dotted with fountains. The Archaeological Museum is off the north end of the square; at the west side is the beginning of Daidalou, the main thoroughfare, which follows the line of an early fortification wall and is now a pedestrian walkway lined with tavernas, boutiques, jewelers, and souvenir shops. Heraklion Southeast end of Daidalou.

Ta Liontaria.“The Lions,” a stately marble Renaissance fountain, remains a beloved town landmark. It’s the heart of Heraklion’s town center—on Eleftheriou Venizelou Square, a triangular pedestrian zone filled with cafés and named after the Cretan statesman who united the island with Greece in 1913. The square is also known simply as Ta Liontaria or Plateia Liontarion and was the center of the colony founded in the 13th century, when Venice colonized Crete, and Heraklion became an important port of call on the trade routes to the Middle East. Dedalou and 25 Augousto.

WORTH NOTING

Ayia Aikaterina. Nestled in the shadow of the Ayios Minas cathedral is one of Crete’s most attractive small churches, named for St. Katherine and built in 1555. The church now houses a museum of icons by Cretan artists, who often traveled to Venice to study with Italian Renaissance painters. Look for six icons by Michael Damaskinos, who worked in both Byzantine and Renaissance styles during the 16th century. Crete’s most famous artist, Domenikos Theotocopoulos, better known as El Greco, studied at the monastery school attached to the church in the mid-16th century. Kyrillou Loukareos 28103/36316 www.iakm.gr.

Ayios Minas. This huge, lofty cathedral, dating from 1895, can hold up to 8,000 worshippers, but is most lively on November 11, when Heraklion celebrates the feast of Minas, a 4th-century Roman soldier-turned-Christian. Legend has it that on Easter Sunday 1826 a ghostly Minas reappeared on horseback and dispersed a Turkish mob ready to slay the city’s Orthodox faithful. Curiously, few of Heraklion’s inhabitants are named after Minas, which is unusual for a city’s patron saint. The reason is that many years ago babies born out of wedlock were left on the steps of the church, and were named Minas by the clergy who took these children in and cared for them. Thus, the name Minas came to be associated with illegitimacy. Kyrillou Loukareos.

WHERE TO EAT

Erganos. $ GREEK One of Heraklion’s most traditional restaurants, just by Kazantzaki park, serves authentic local fare, mainly to a local crowd, far removed from the tourist havens in the center. Mouthwatering bite-sized sfakianopita (pies), filled with cheese and honey, are a classic true taste of Crete, and the lamb and goat are always popular, as are tremendous keftedes (meatballs). Known for: traditional Cretan cuisine; authentic atmosphere; hospitable staff. Average main: €10 G. Georgiadou 5 28102/85629 www.erganos.gr.

Ippokambos. $ SEAFOOD In a modern wood-and-glass conservatory overlooking the Koules, this Heraklion institution serves some of the best fish in town, with the waves only a stone’s throw away. Ask a local for a recommendation and they will invariably mention Ippokambos. Known for: the freshest local fish and seafood; generous portions; seafront setting. Average main: €12 Sofokli Venizelou 3 28102/80240.

Fodor’sChoice Peskesi. $ GREEK In a restored sea captain’s mansion, stone walls and arches provide the backdrop to some of the best food in Crete: traditional cuisine brought to life with modern techniques and presentation. A 60-acre farm in Harasso is dedicated to supplying the restaurant with seasonal local produce, much of it organic, and the flavors really shine through. Known for: atmospheric location; truly knowledgeable and interested staff; delightful purely Cretan wines. Average main: €12 Kapetan Haralabi 6-8 28102/88887 www.peskesicrete.gr.

WHERE TO STAY

GDM Megaron. $$ HOTEL A handsome building, GDM Megaron stands sentinel over the harbor front, and from its humble roots as a citrus processing enterprise in the 1930s, it has risen to be the city’s luxury choice; interiors are classic and elegantly furnished, with an impressive lobby and refined air. Pros: central seafront location overlooking Koules; most rooms have water views; wonderful rooftop restaurant. Cons: formal surroundings can feel a little hushed at times; rear rooms overlook the city; some noise from the nearby bus depot. Rooms from: €130 D. Beaufort 9 28103/05300 www.gdmmegaron.gr 58 rooms Breakfast.

Fodor’sChoice Kalimera Archanes Village. $$ B&B/INN An especially appealing base for exploring Knossos and Heraklion is the well-kept wine village of Archanes, where three 19th-century stone houses tucked into a garden are fitted out with traditional furnishings and all the modern comforts. Pros: highly atmospheric and very comfortable; near many sights but provides a nice dose of Greek village life; beautiful interiors and outdoor spaces. Cons: beaches and Heraklion are a 15-minute drive away; a pool would be the icing on the cake; can be hard to find when you first approach. Rooms from: €200 Theotokopoulou, Tsikritsi, Archanes Off Leof. Kapetanaki, left after Likastos Taverna 28107/52999 www.archanes-village.gr 4 houses Breakfast.

Olive Green Hotel. $ HOTEL Since opening in 2016, this city-center hotel has been shaking up the local hotel landscape with its supermodern design and facilities, allied to an eco-friendly approach. Pros: overlooks a tree-lined square; clean, neutral, tasteful design; supercentral location minutes from the seafront and main attractions. Cons: iPad control of room functions won’t suit all guests; parking is a short walk around the corner and not free; cheapest rooms lack a balcony. Rooms from: €105 Idomeneos 22 28103/302900 www.olivegreenhotel.com 48 rooms Breakfast.

Veneziano Boutique Hotel. $ HOTEL A landmark building in Heraklion, with both Venetian and Ottoman heritage dating back to 1510, has been given a careful renovation, resulting in one of the city’s most stylish and chic accommodations. Pros: beautiful, elegant building handsomely restored; a two-minute walk from the heart of town; quiet backstreet location. Cons: steep flight of stairs to upstairs rooms; reception is a desk under those stairs; surrounding streets are a little dull. Rooms from: €95 1770 and N. Kazantaki 28103/44758 www.veneziano.gr 6 rooms Breakfast.

KNOSSOS Κνωσου

5 km (3 miles) south of Heraklion.

Paintings of bull-leapers, sculptures of bare-breasted snake charmers, myths of minotaurs, and the oldest throne in Europe are just a few of the wonders that the British archaeologist Arthur Evans brought up from the earth at Knossos at the close of the 19th century, to the astonishment of newspapers around the world. They provided telling evidence of the great elegance of King Minos’s court (Evans chose the king’s name to christen this culture), as the evocative ruins continue to do today.

GETTING HERE

Municipal bus No. 2 (€1.70) heads to the fabled Palace of Knossos every 20 minutes or so from Heraklion, where the main stops include Plateia Eleftherias.

EXPLORING

Boutari Winery. Established by one of the oldest wine-making families in Greece, this state-of-the-art winery marries tradition with innovation, producing over 100,000 bottles a year. In a modern tasting room with great views over the vines to the hills beyond, sample some of the estate’s award-winning offerings. You can buy the wines you have tasted, along with other local delicacies. Skalani, Heraklion 28107/31617 www.boutari.gr €5.

Fodor’sChoice Palace of Knossos. This most amazing of archaeological sites once lay hidden beneath a huge mound hemmed in by low hills. Heinrich Schliemann, father of archaeology and discoverer of Troy, knew it was here, but Turkish obstruction prevented him from exploring his last discovery. Cretan independence from the Ottoman Turks made it possible for Sir Arthur Evans, a British archaeologist, to start excavations in 1899. A forgotten and sublime civilization thus came again to light with the uncovering of the great Palace of Knossos.

The magnificent Minoans flourished on Crete from around 2700 to 1450 BC, and their palaces and cities at Knossos, Phaistos, and Gournia were centers of political power and luxury—they traded in tin, saffron, gold, and spices as far afield as Spain—when the rest of Europe was a place of primitive barbarity. They loved art, farmed bees, and worshipped many goddesses. But what caused their demise? Some say political upheaval, but others point to an eruption on Thera (Santorini), about 100 km (62 miles) north in the Aegean, that caused tsunamis and earthquakes and brought about the end of this sophisticated civilization.

The Palace of Knossos site was occupied from Neolithic times, and the population spread to the surrounding land. Around 1900 BC, the hilltop was leveled and the first palace constructed; around 1700 BC, after an earthquake destroyed the original structure, the later palace was built, surrounded by houses and other buildings. Around 1450 BC, another widespread disaster occurred, perhaps an invasion: palaces and country villas were razed by fire and abandoned, but Knossos remained inhabited even though the palace suffered some damage. But around 1380 BC the palace and its outlying buildings were destroyed by fire, and around 1100 BC the site was abandoned. Still later, Knossos became a Greek city-state.

You enter the palace from the west, passing a bust of Sir Arthur Evans, who excavated at Knossos on and off for more than 20 years. A path leads you around to the monumental south gateway. The west wing encases lines of long, narrow storerooms where the true wealth of Knossos was kept in tall clay jars: oil, wine, grains, and honey. The central court is about 164 feet by 82 feet long. The cool, dark throne-room complex has a griffin fresco and a tall, wavy-back gypsum throne, the oldest in Europe. The most spectacular piece of palace architecture is the grand staircase, on the east side of the court, leading to the domestic apartments. Four flights of shallow gypsum stairs survive, lighted by a deep light well. Here you get a sense of how noble Minoans lived; rooms were divided by sets of double doors, giving privacy and warmth when closed, coolness and communication when open. The queen’s megaron (apartment or hall) is decorated with a colorful dolphin fresco and furnished with stone benches. Beside it is a bathroom, complete with a clay tub, and next door a toilet, with a drainage system that permitted flushing into a channel flowing into the Kairatos stream far below. The east side of the palace also contained workshops. Beside the staircase leading down to the east bastion is a stone water channel made up of parabolic curves and settling basins: a Minoan storm drain. Northwest of the east bastion is the north entrance, guarded by a relief fresco of a charging bull. Beyond is the theatrical area, shaded by pines and overlooking a shallow flight of steps, which lead down to the royal road. This, perhaps, was the ceremonial entrance to the palace.

For a complete education in Minoan architecture and civilization, consider touring Knossos and, of course, the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion (where many of the treasures from the palace are on view), then traveling south to the Palace of Phaistos, another great Minoan site that has not been reconstructed.

TIP → After a long day at the archaeological sites you may feel like you’ve earned a drink. Follow the signposts to one of the numerous vineyards that surround the pretty village of Archanes, 9 km (5½ miles) south of Knossos, and enjoy tasting some of the world’s oldest wines. Knossos 28102/31940 odysseus.culture.gr €15; combined ticket with Archaeological Museum in Heraklion €16.

LASITHI PLATEAU Οροπεδιο Λασιθιου

47 km (29 miles) southeast of the Palace of Knossos, 52 km (32 miles) southeast of Heraklion.

The Lasithi Plateau, 2,800 feet high and the biggest of the upland plains of Crete, lies behind a wall of barren mountains. Windmills for pumping water rise above fields of potatoes and the apple and almond orchards that are a pale haze of blossom in early spring. The plateau is remote and breathtakingly beautiful, and ringed by small villages where shops sell local weaving and embroidery.

EXPLORING

Cave of Psychro. This impressive, stalactite-rich cavern is one of a few places in Crete that claim to be the birthplace of Zeus, king of the gods, and where he was reared in secret, out of reach of his vengeful father, Kronos. Approach the cave, once a Minoan sanctuary and now the plateau’s most popular tourist attraction, on a short path from the large parking lot on foot or by donkey. Lasithi Near village of Psychro 28410/22462 €6.

Cretan Traditional Folklore Museum. An old village house in Ayios Georgios stands as it was when generations of farmers lived here. The living quarters and stables, along with the delightful assemblage of simple furnishings, embroidery, and tools, provide a chance to see domestic life as it was, and indeed still is, for many residents of the plateau. Ayios Georgios 28440/31382 www.elsolas.gr €3 Closed late Oct.–mid-Apr.

WHERE TO EAT

Kronio. $ GREEK The promise of a meal in this cozy, family-run establishment is alone worth the trip up to the plateau. The taverna is in its fifth decade and still offering delicious pies as well as casseroles and lamb dishes, accompanied by fresh-baked bread and followed up with homemade desserts. Known for: authentic Cretan home-cooked dishes served with bags of personality; mixed mezedes to share features 18 separate dishes; can get busy with tour parties. Average main: €10 Tzermiado Center of the village on the Neapolis–Hersonissos road 28440/22375 www.kronio.eu Closed Nov.–Mar.

EN ROUTE

A rewarding detour as you travel east from Heraklion toward the Lasithi Plateau and Malia takes you south to Kastelli, about 15 km (9 miles) southeast of Heraklion, where the lovely Byzantine church of Ayios Pandeleimon is decorated with elaborate frescoes. Interspersing the landscape here and there are segments of an aqueduct that served the nearby ancient Greek city of Lyttos, yet to be excavated. Thrapsano, about 7 km (4½ miles) farther southwest, is a famous pottery center, where workshops turn out earthenware jugs, pots, and decorative items for sale on the main square and at shops throughout town.

AYIOS NIKOLAOS αγιος Νικολαος

30 km (19 miles) east of the Lasithi Plateau, 69 km (43 miles) east of Heraklion.

Ayios Nikolaos is clustered on a peninsula alongside the gulf of Mirabello, a dramatic composition of bare mountains, islets, and deep blue sea. Behind the crowded harbor lies the picturesque Lake Voulismeni, linked to the sea by a narrow channel. Hilly, with narrow, steep streets that provide sea views, the town is a welcoming and animated place, far more pleasant than Malia and the other resort centers in this part of Crete: you can stroll along waterside promenades, cafés line the lakeshore, and many streets are open only to pedestrians. Ayios Nikolaos and the nearby Elounda peninsula provide an excellent base for exploring eastern Crete.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

By ferry or by air, the best option is from Heraklion, less than an hour away by a bus service that runs at least every hour, and often more frequently during the day. The bus station in Ayios Nikolaos is just south of the town center, near the sea on Akti Atlantidos (off Platia Venizelou at the end of Venizelou street). By car or taxi, Ayios Nikolaos is on the national highway and is easily reached from the capital. Parking in the town is difficult, and the easiest recourse is to opt for one of the inexpensive parking lots dotted around the pedestrians-only center.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Contacts Ayios Nikolaos Visitor Information. Akti Koundourou 21A On the lake bridge corner 28410/22357 www.aghiosnikolaos.gr.

EXPLORING

Folk Museum. This interesting little museum showcases exquisite weavings and embroidered pieces, along with walking sticks, tools, and other artifacts from everyday rural life in Crete. Kondylaki 2 28410/25093 €3 Closed Mon.

Kritsa. This delightful village on a mountainside above Ayios Nikolaos is renowned for its weaving tradition, narrow lanes wide enough for only a donkey to pass, and whitewashed houses that surround a large, shady town square filled with café tables that afford views down green valleys planted with olive trees to the sea. The woven tablecloths and other wares are hard to miss—villagers drape them over every usable surface and hang them from storefronts and even trees. The lovely Byzantine church here, Panayia Kera, has an unusual shape, with three naves supported by heavy triangular buttresses. Built in the early years of Venetian occupation, it contains some of the liveliest and best-preserved medieval frescoes on the island, painted in the 13th century. Kritsa 11 km (7 miles) west of Ayios Nikolaos 28410/51525 €2 Closed Mon.

Lato. This ancient city in the hills just above Ayios Nikolaos was built by the Doric Greeks in a dip between two rocky peaks and named for the mother of Artemis and Apollo. Her image appears on coins found at the site. Make your way over the expanse of ancient masonry to the far end of the ongoing excavations for one of the best views in Crete: on a clear day you can see the island of Santorini, 100 km (62 miles) across the Cretan sea, as well as inland across a seemingly endless panorama of mountains and valleys. Ayios Nikolaos About 10 km (6 miles) west of Ayios Nikolaos, following marked road from village of Kritsa 28410/22462 www.odysseus.culture.gr €2 Closed Mon.

BEACHES

You can dip into the clean waters that surround Ayios Nikolaos from several good beaches right in town. Kitroplatia and Ammos are both only about a 5- to 10-minute walk from the center. Almyros, 2 km (1 mile) away, is the best and is rightly popular.

WHERE TO EAT

Migomis. $$ MEDITERRANEAN Clinging to the cliff above the lake, this restaurant offers some of the best views in town. Food is on a par, too: Mediterranean-inspired dishes accompany Greek classics, and the steaks are rightly famous. Known for: dramatic and very romantic cliff-top setting; well presented dishes with an Italian flavor; good international wine list. Average main: €20 Nikou Plastira 20 28410/24353 www.migomis.com Closed Nov.–Mar.

Pelagos. $$ SEAFOOD An enchanting courtyard garden and the high-ceilinged parlors of an elegant neoclassical mansion are the setting for what many consider to be the best fish tavern in Ayios Nikolaos. Simple is the keyword here: fresh catches from the fleet bobbing in the harbor just beyond are plainly grilled and accompanied by local vegetables and Cretan wines. Known for: simply prepared dishes in a lovely setting; friendly service from English-speaking staff; being busy, be prepared to wait in summer. Average main: €15 Stratigou Koraka 11 28410/82019 Closed Nov.–Mar.

Taverna Stavrakakis. $ GREEK Enhance the short trip out to Kritsa and Lato with a stop in the nearby village of Exo Lakonia to enjoy a meal at the homey kafenion of Manolis and Katerina Stavrakakis. Dishes are based on family recipes, and most are made from ingredients the couple grow themselves. Known for: authentic mezedes, not tourist taverna fare; great homemade pies; the friendliest welcome. Average main: €8 Exo Lakonia About 8 km (5 miles) west of Ayios Nikolaos 28410/22478.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’sChoice Daios Cove. $$$$ RESORT Crashing onto the scene in 2010, this glamorous resort redefined the luxury concept with a mighty wow factor—spread over the sides of Vathi bay (with a private sandy beach), every room has breathtaking views, and many have private terraces and pools. Pros: even the smallest rooms are twice the size of a regular hotel room; well-trained and friendly staff; design still feels fresh and new. Cons: a distance from Ayios Nikolaos and can feel a little isolated; food and drink costs are high; seemingly hundreds of steps (but funicular to beach helps). Rooms from: €540 Vathi 28418/88061 www.daioscovecrete.com Closed Nov.–Apr. 290 rooms Breakfast.

Hotel Du Lac. $ HOTEL Right on the lake in the center of town, this good-value hotel has airy and spacious guest rooms that are nicely done with simple, contemporary furnishings; studios, with kitchens and large baths, are enormous and ideal for families. Pros: great lakeside views; good, budget option; pretty café below is handy for breakfast. Cons: large differential in size between rooms and studios; it’s worth paying the extra; not 24-hour reception; parking (charge payable) is a short walk away. Rooms from: €50 28is Oktovriou 17 28410/22711 www.dulachotel.gr 23 No meals.

Fodor’sChoice St. Nicolas Bay. $$$$ RESORT Lovely and luxurious, this special resort is set within immaculate, verdant gardens overlooking the gulf of Mirabello at the edge of Ayios Nikolaos—magical surroundings. Pros: smart, generous, and indulgent atmosphere; feels intimate but never crowded; superior dining options. Cons: away from the town center; not inexpensive; small beach can get busy. Rooms from: €468 Thessi Nissi 28410/90200 www.stnicolasbay.gr Closed Nov.–late Apr. 102 rooms Breakfast.

SHOPPING

Ceramica. Museum-standard copies of ancient amphora, pots, and pithoi are hand painted by supremely talented artist Nic Gabriel. K. Palaeologou 28 28410/24075.

Chez Sonia. An appealing array of beads, quartz and silver jewelry, woven tablecloths and scarves, carved bowls, and other handicrafts fills Chez Sonia. 28is Oktovriou 20 28410/28475.

ELOUNDA Ελουντα

11 km (7 miles) north of Ayios Nikolaos, 80 km (50 miles) east of Heraklion.

From its origins as a sleepy fishing village, Elounda has transformed into the de rigueur destination for luxury resorts. The shores of the gulf of Korfos are thronged with villas and hotels offering the last word in indulgence. Spectacular views across to Spinalonga, broodily guarding the harbor, are a constant, as are a jet-set clientele. The beaches tend to be narrow and pebbly, but the water is crystal clear, and, in truth, many guests venture no farther than their private pool. Don’t come here in search of Authentic Greece; expect to meet fellow international travelers. As an escape from the rigors of everyday life, though, there are few better placed competitors.

EXPLORING

Olous. A sunken, ancient city is visible just beneath the turquoise waters off a causeway that leads to the Spinalonga peninsula (not to be confused with the island of the same name), an undeveloped headland. Don’t imagine you are going to discover Atlantis, but the outlines of a Roman settlement on the seabed and the warm, shallow waters make for an enjoyable diversion from the hotel pool. A mosaic floor from an Early Christian basilica with a striking fish motif can also be seen about 300 feet onshore. Elounda 3 km (2 miles) east of Elounda.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Spinalonga. The Venetians built an imposing fortress on this small island in the center of the gulf of Mirabello in the 16th century. It withstood Turkish invasion for more than 45 years after the mainland had fallen. Nevertheless, it is more recent history that gives this isle its eerie infamy; from the beginning of the last century it became a leper colony, imprisoning the unfortunate in primitive conditions until 1957. It is a poignant and evocative place with a sense of melancholy that remains to this day. The story is brought to life in the international best-selling novel The Island by Victoria Hislop. Boat excursions run from Ayios Nikolaos and Elounda. Most include a swim on a deserted island. There is also a shorter trip from Plaka, directly opposite Spinalonga. Expect to pay €10 from Elounda, €20 from Ayios Nikolaos and €8 from Plaka. Gulf of Mirabello, Spinalonga Fortress €8.

WHERE TO EAT

Kanali. $$ GREEK In an impossibly picturesque position next to the sunken ancient city of Olous, and the later canal from where it takes its name, Kanali serves elegant updates of Greek staples. Wooden furniture and an old stone building dressed with bold prints and lanterns lend it a shabby-chic air that would grace the seasides of Mykonos or Santorini. Known for: fish baked in a salt crust theatrically opened at your table; beautifully presented modern Greek cuisine; romantic, stylish setting. Average main: €20 Elounda Next to the canal by Olous 28410/42075 www.eloundakanali.gr Closed Nov.–Mar.

Marilena. $ GREEK The choice among the many restaurants that cling to the harbor, it’s an Elounda classic, having offered traditional Greek food for 40 years. The large rear garden, decked with grapevines, or the seafront-facing tables are charming places to sample the house mezedes, many with a Cypriot origin, or try some of the excellent grill dishes. Known for: long-serving unflustered staff; dramatic table-side flambé dishes; Cypriot twists on Greek classics. Average main: €12 Harborside, main square 28410/41322 www.marilenarestaurant.gr Closed late Oct.–early Mar.

WHERE TO STAY

Akti Olous Beach. $ HOTEL Set on the edge of the gulf, with sweeping views across to the bay from its rooftop terrace pool, this hotel may be the answer to affordable accommodations in Elounda. Pros: seaside location within walking distance of town; same beautiful views as the fancy hotels along the bay; good value for Elounda. Cons: some rooms are a bit small and dark; pricier rooms have the front sea view; can be busy with tour groups. Rooms from: €120 Akti Olountos 28410/41270 www.eloundaaktiolous.gr Closed Nov.–mid-Apr. 70 rooms Breakfast.

Elounda Beach Hotel & Villas. $$$$ HOTEL FAMILY The original luxury resort hotel in Elounda, and one of Greece’s most renowned, is set in 40 acres of gardens next to 1 km (½ mile) of seashore, and offers a dazzling array of delights. Pros: well-designed, comfortable accommodations; lovely gardens and seashore; first-class spa and kids’ amenities. Cons: hard to shake the feeling better value may be had elsewhere; eye-wateringly expensive; very large, with a lot of rooms. Rooms from: €550 Elounda 3 km (2 miles) south of village 28410/63000 www.eloundabeach.gr Closed Nov.–Mar. 244 rooms Breakfast.

Elounda Gulf Villas and Suites. $$$$ RESORT For those who value privacy and comfort, this may be the ultimate Elounda destination—with less of a resort feel than its larger neighbors, it is a second home to the jet set and the bright and the beautiful. Pros: beautiful accommodations in an intimate setting; personal, attentive service; excellent gourmet restaurants. Cons: not beachfront—private beach for guests is 10-minute drive away; pricier villas have the edge on suites; 20-minute walk into the town center. Rooms from: €380 Elounda 3 km (2 miles) south of village 28102/27721 www.eloundavillas.com 33 villas Breakfast.

Elounda Mare. $$$$ HOTEL This Relais & Chateaux property is one of the longest established in Elounda, and it blends charm and sophistication with a comfortably relaxed atmosphere. Pros: gorgeous setting and meticulously maintained grounds; Old Mill restaurant acknowledged as one of the best in Crete; golf course and Six Senses Spa at sister property open to guests. Cons: traditional decor beginning to feel a little dated; small beach; patchy Wi-Fi. Rooms from: €408 Elounda 3 km (2 miles) south of village 28410/68200 www.eloundamare.gr Closed Nov.–mid-Apr. 91 rooms Breakfast.

VAI BAï

170 km (106 miles) east of Heraklion.

The appeal of the surrounding, fertile coastal plain was not lost on the ancient Minoans, who left behind ruins that are not as grand as those on the center of the island but are evocative nonetheless.

EXPLORING

Palaikastro. A sprawling Minoan town, formerly known as Roussolakkos, is currently being excavated by archaeologists. Palaikastro is missing any Knossos-type drama; here, for instance, there is no large palace structure, but you get a strong sense of everyday life amid the stony ruins of streets, squares, and shops. TIP → Nearby, Chiona and Kouremenos beaches make for pleasant diversions after clambering over the excavations. Palaikastro 2 km (1 mile) outside modern Palaikastro 28410/25115 www.odysseus.culture.gr Free.

BEACHES

Palm Beach at Vai. Even the classical Greeks recognized the beauty of this palm grove at the eastern end of the island, which is unique in Europe. It stood in for the Caribbean in a famous television commercial for a chocolate bar, and it’s easy to see why. Nevertheless, the sandy stretch with nearby islets in clear turquoise water is such a stunner that many bus tours come all the way east just to show off the sand and palms, so Vai can get jammed in the summer. If the sand in front of the grove of 5,000 palms is too crowded, follow the path south over the headland to a slightly less crowded cove. Amenities: food and drink; parking (€2.50); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. Vai.

WHERE TO STAY

Sitia Bay hotel. $ HOTEL FAMILY In an area not renowned for its high-quality accommodations, this apartment-hotel stands out for its easy, relaxed feel. Pros: great position on the beachfront; superfriendly staff know all the best places to visit in the locality; good base for exploring this forgotten part of Crete. Cons: beach can get busy on weekends; don’t expect luxurious furnishings; reception only open 8–8. Rooms from: €100 P. Vartholomaiou 27, Sitia 28430/24800 www.sitiabay.com Closed Nov.–Apr. 19 apartments Breakfast.

WESTERN CRETE Δυτικη Κρητη

Much of western Crete’s landscape of soaring mountains, deep gorges, and rolling green lowlands remains largely untouched by mass tourism. Only the north coast is developed, leaving many interesting byways to be explored. This region is abundant in Minoan sites, including the Palace at Phaistos, as well as Byzantine churches and Venetian monasteries. Two of Greece’s most-appealing cities are here: Chania and Rethymnon, both crammed with houses, narrow lanes, and minarets that hark back to Venetian and Turkish occupation. Friendly villages dot the uplands, and there are some outstanding beaches on the ruggedly beautiful and remote west and south coasts. Immediately southwest of Heraklion lies the traditional agricultural heartland of Crete: long, narrow valleys where olive groves alternate with vineyards of sultana grapes for export.

VORI Βοριον

65 km (40 miles) southwest of Heraklion, 5 km (3 miles) north of Palace of Phaistos.

Vori, the closest town to Phaistos and Ayia Triada, is a pleasant farming community of whitewashed houses on narrow lanes; you might enjoy stopping here for some refreshment at one of the cafés on the lively main square and to visit the excellent folk museum.

Museum of Cretan Ethnology. A rich collection of Cretan folk items showcases exquisite weavings and pottery, basketry, farm implements, household furnishings, and clothing, all beautifully displayed and descriptively labeled in a well-designed building. Undoubtedly, the best museum of its kind on the island. Voroi Pirgiotissis Edge of village center 28920/91110 www.creta­nethn­ology­museum.gr €3 Closed Oct.–Apr.

PALACE OF PHAISTOS Ανακτορο της Φαιστου

50 km (31 miles) southwest of Heraklion, 11 km (7 miles) south of Vori.

On a steep hill overlooking olive groves and the sea on one side, and high mountain peaks on the other, the second-largest Minoan palace was the center of Minoan culture in southern Crete. Unlike Knossos, Phaistos has not been reconstructed, though the copious ruins are richly evocative. Nearby is another palace, Ayia Triada.

Ayia Triada. Another Minoan settlement was destroyed at the same time as Phaistos, which is only a few miles away on the other side of the same hill. Ayia Triada was once thought to have been a summer palace for the rulers of Phaistos but is now believed to have consisted of a group of villas for nobility and a warehouse complex. Rooms in the villas were once paneled with gypsum slabs and decorated with frescoes: the two now hanging in the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion show a woman in a garden and a cat hunting a pheasant. Several other lovely pieces, including finely crafted vases, also come from Ayia Triada and are now also on display in Heraklion. Though the complex was at one time just above the seashore, the view now looks across the extensive Messara plain to the Lybian sea in the distance. Ayia Triada, Tympaki, Phaistos Follow signs 3 km (2 miles) west from Phaistos 28920/91360 www.odysseus.culture.gr €4.

Fodor’sChoice Palace of Phaistos. The Palace of Phaistos was built around 1900 BC and rebuilt after a disastrous earthquake around 1650 BC. It was burned and abandoned in the wave of destruction that swept across the island around 1450 BC, though Greeks continued to inhabit the city until the 2nd century BC, when it was eclipsed by Roman Gortyna.

You enter the site by descending a flight of steps leading into the west court, then climb a grand staircase. From here you pass through the Propylon porch into a light well and descend a narrow staircase into the central court. Much of the southern and eastern sections of the palace have eroded away. But there are large pithoi still in place in the old storerooms. On the north side of the court the recesses of an elaborate doorway bear a rare trace: red paint in a diamond pattern on a white ground. A passage from the doorway leads to the north court and the northern domestic apartments, now roofed and fenced off. The Phaistos Disk was found in 1903 in a chest made of mud brick at the northeast edge of the site and is now on display at the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion. East of the central court are the palace workshops, with a metalworking furnace fenced off. South of the workshops lie the southern domestic apartments, including a clay bath. From there, you have a memorable view across the Messara plain. Phaistos Follow signs and ascend hill off Ayii Deka–Mires–Timbaki road 28920/42315 odysseus.culture.gr €8.

EN ROUTE

The quickest route from Phaistos, Matala, and other places on the Messara plain to the north coast is the Heraklion road, a small section of which is four lanes. But a very pleasant alternative leads northwest through Ayia Galini (the largest resort on this part of the southern coast) and the mountain town of Spili to Rethymnon. The route shows off the beauty of rural Crete as it traverses deep valleys and gorges and climbs the flanks of the interior mountain ranges. Just beyond Spili, follow signs to Moni Preveli, a stunningly located monastery perched high above the sea. A monument honors the monks here who sheltered Allied soldiers after the Battle of Crete and helped them escape the Nazi-occupied island via submarine. Below the monastery is Palm beach, where golden sands are shaded by a palm grove watered by a mountain stream. It’s lovely, but avoid this patch of paradise at midday during high season, when it is packed with day-trippers who arrive by tour boat from Ayia Galini.

MATALA Ματαλα

10 km (6 miles) southwest of Vori, 70 km (42 miles) southwest of Heraklion.

Renowned in the 1960s as a stopover on the hippie trail, with Joni Mitchell immortalizing it in song, Matala today is a small, low-key beach resort that retains its flower-power vibe, although, tourism is increasing. The 2nd-century AD Roman tombs cut in the cliff side, where the beatniks made their home, now attracts day-trippers from Heraklion and make an impressive sight from the pleasant town beach.

BEACHES

Kommos Beach. Fabulous, pine-and palm-fringed Kommos lies below the site of a Minoan harbor, once the port of Phaistos. At its far northern end lies the scrappy little resort of Kalamaki, where a few modest hotels and tavernas back the sand, but for the most part the beach is an unspoiled 2-km (1-mile) stretch of white sand washed by clear waters and backed by hills shaded with tamarisk trees. Kommos is especially popular with nudists, and it’s also a nesting ground for the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), so avoid taped-off areas where the females have laid their eggs. Lifeguards watch over the southern end of the beach. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers, toilets. Best for: nudists; solitude; sunset; swimming; walking. Off Mires–Matala road Near Pitsidia, 2 km (1 mile) from signposted turnoff.

Red Beach. This beautiful crescent of sand is accessible by a 20-minute walk across a rocky promontory on a path from Matala, or by a boat that runs from Matala in summer. The trek includes a scramble up and over a headland and some steep climbs and descents, though it is manageable with moderate exertion. Your reward is a lovely, unspoiled crescent of golden sand washed by clear waters that is especially popular with nudists. Surf in the small bay can be rough, with riptides. Shade is scarce, though a small bar sometimes rents umbrellas and offers simple snacks. Amenities: food and drink (sometimes). Best for: nudists; solitude; swimming; walking. Matala 1 km (½ mile) west of town.

WHERE TO EAT

Taverna Sigelakis. $ GREEK Residents from villages for miles around come to the town of Sivas to enjoy a meal of stifado (meat in a rich tomato sauce) artichokes with avgolemono (egg and lemon sauce), and other specialties, including delicious roasted lamb and chicken, all served on the front terrace in warm seasons or in the stone-wall, hearth-warmed dining room when the weather’s cold. A meal comes with friendly service, a visit from proprietor Giorgios, and a free glass of raki and a sweet. Known for: true traditional Cretan cooking; authentic surroundings; hospitable owner. Average main: €10 Sivas, Sivas 6 km (4 miles) northeast of Matala 28920/42748 www.sigelakis-studios.gr.

WHERE TO STAY

Thalori. $ RESORT To enjoy a remote Cretan retreat without sacrificing comfort, it’s hard to beat these beautifully renovated stone houses in an ages-old village that clings to a mountainside high above the Libyan sea. Pros: beautiful surroundings; ideal for those who want to get away from it all and enjoy nature; very comfortable and unique. Cons: a half-hour drive to the nearest beach; thick stone walls plays havoc with the Wi-Fi; hair-raising road trip to reach the property. Rooms from: €100 Kapetaniana 28930/41762 www.thalori.com 20 traditional houses Breakfast.

ARKADI ARKADI

18 km (11 miles) southwest of Fodele, 30 km (19 miles) southwest of Heraklion.

As you approach Arkadi from the north, through the rolling lands at the base of Mt. Ida, one of the contenders in the dispute over the alleged Cretan birthplace of Zeus, you’ll follow a gorge inland before emerging onto the flat pastureland that surrounds one of Crete’s most beautiful and important monasteries. The approach is even more dramatic from the south, as you traverse the uplands of the beautiful Amari valley before dropping into the mountain plateau that the monastery and its vast holdings occupy. If you are heading east back to Heraklion, consider visiting Eleutherna, with stunning views of the local area, and pass through Fodele; a pretty village set in orange and lemon groves with a shady taverna-filled square and a small museum in the supposed birthplace of El Greco.

Arkadi Monastery. A place of pilgrimage for many Cretans, Moni Arkadi is also one of the most stunning pieces of Renaissance architecture on the island. The ornate facade, decorated with Corinthian columns and an elegant belfry above, was built in the 16th century of a local, honey-color stone. In 1866 the monastery came under siege during a major rebellion against the Turks, and Abbot Gabriel and several hundred rebels, together with their wives and children, refused to surrender. When the Turkish forces broke through the gate, the defenders set the gunpowder store afire, killing themselves together with hundreds of Turks. The monastery was again a center of resistance when the Nazis occupied Crete during World War II. Arkadi South of old Heraklion–Hania road 28310/83135 www.imra.gr €3.

Museum of Ancient Eleutherna. In the foothills of Mt. Ida, Eleutherna was founded in the 9th century BC. It was one of the most important ancient cities, even minting its own coins. At a natural crossroad between Knossos to the east and Cydonia to the northwest, it controlled the ports of Stavromenos and Panormos and was near to the sacred cave of Idaion Andron, another one of the alleged birthplaces of Zeus. An archaeological-site museum was opened in 2016 in a modern building and it has been designed to be updated as new discoveries and finds are made. Housing objects from prehistoric through to Byzantine eras, the current collection spans 3000 BC to AD 1300, presented in a multimedia fashion. The archaeological site itself is accessible on rough stone paths with two large canopies covering the most important excavations. The Orthi Petra cemetery includes a funeral pyre for a warrior from 730–710 BC, and corroborates Homer’s description in The Iliad of a similar burial. Elsewhere, roads, villas, public buildings, baths, and cisterns are to be seen, along with magnificent views of the countryside. Eleutherna Mylopotamou, Rethymnon 28340/92501 www.mae.com.gr €4 Closed Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’sChoice Kapsaliana Village Hotel. $$ HOTEL A 300-year-old hamlet set amid vast olive groves has been converted to one of Crete’s most distinctive and relaxing lodgings with luxurious, stylishly appointed rooms, welcoming lounges, and an excellent dining room—all fashioned out of beautiful, ancient stone houses that were once part of the Arkadi Monastery holdings. Pros: unique insight into a way of life that has disappeared; a welcome alternative in an outstanding setting far from anonymous resorts; low-key sophistication is very charming. Cons: remote location makes a rental car a necessity; some distance from beaches; can feel a little isolated at night. Rooms from: €220 Kapsaliana 28310/83400 www.kapsalianavillage.gr 18 rooms Breakfast.

RETHYMNON Ρεθυμνο

25 km (15 miles) west of Arkadi Monastery, 78 km (48 miles) west of Heraklion.

Rethymnon is Crete’s third-largest town, after Heraklion and Chania. The population (about 40,000) steadily increases as the town expands—a new quarter follows the coast to the east of the Old Town, where the beachfront has been developed with large hotels and other resort facilities catering to tourists on package vacations. Nevertheless, much of Rethymnon’s charm perseveres in the old Venetian quarter, which is crowded onto a compact peninsula dominated by the huge, fortified Venetian castle known as the Fortezza. Wandering through the narrow alleyways, you come across handsome carved-stone Renaissance doorways belonging to vanished mansions, fountains, archways, and wooden Turkish houses with latticework screens on the balconies to protect the women of the house from prying eyes.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

There is no direct ferry connection to Athens from Rethymnon. However, this has a habit of changing year by year; ask at local agents for availability. If a boat is not operating when you wish to make the trip, a good option is to use the ferry terminal or airport at Chania, about 45 minutes and €90 away by taxi. Rethymnon is also served by an hourly bus service from Chania and Heraklion, each about an hour away, and the fare to either is about €8 each way. Rethymnon’s bus terminal is on the west side of town, on the sea near the Venetian fortress, at Atki Kefaloyianithon. Rethymnon is on Crete’s national highway, which runs along the north coast, and there is public parking on the seaside road around the Venetian fortress, next to the old harbor, and elsewhere around town.

EXPLORING

Archaeological Museum. Here’s even more evidence of just how long Crete has cradled civilizations: a collection of bone tools from a Neolithic site at Gerani (west of Rethymnon); Minoan pottery; and an unfinished statue of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, from the Roman occupation (look for the ancient chisel marks). The museum is temporarily housed in the restored Venetian Chuch of St. Francisco while renovations are undertaken at the original site in the shadow of the Fortessa. Agios Fragiskos 28310/54668 odysseus.culture.gr €3.

Fortessa. The west side of the peninsula on which Rethymnon sits is taken up almost entirely with this massive fortress, strategically surrounded by the sea and thick ramparts. The high, well-preserved walls enclose a vast empty space occupied by a few scattered buildings—a well-restored mosque, two churches, and abandoned barracks that once housed the town brothels—and are surrounded by fields of wildflowers in spring. After a small fortress on the site failed to thwart a 1571 attack of 40 pirate galleys, Venetians conscripted 100,000 forced laborers from the town and surrounding villages to build the huge compound. It didn’t fulfill its purpose of keeping out the Turks: Rethymnon surrendered after a three-week siege in 1646. Rethymnon West end of town 28310/40150 www.rethymno.gr €4.

Historical and Folk Art Museum. A restored Venetian palazzo almost in the shadow of the Neratze minaret houses a delightful collection of rustic furnishings, tools, weavings, and a re-creation of a traditional Cretan shopping street that provide a charming and vivid picture of what life on Crete was like until well into the 20th century. M. Vernardou 28–30 28310/23398 €4 Closed Sun.

Neratze. The most visible sign of the Turkish occupation of Rethymnon is the graceful minaret, one the few to survive in Greece, that rises above the Neratze. This large stone structure looming over the narrow lanes of the city center was a monastery, then church, under the Venetians, and was subsequently converted to a mosque under the Ottomans before being transformed into today’s concert hall. Verna and Ethnikis Adistaseos.

Venetian Harbor. Rethymnon’s small inner harbor, with its restored 19th-century lighthouse, comes to life in warm weather, when restaurant tables clutter the quayside. Fishing craft and pleasure boats are crammed chockablock into the minute space. Waterfront.

Venetian Loggia. The carefully restored clubhouse of the local nobility is now enclosed in glass and houses the Archaeological Museum’s shop, selling a selection of books and reproductions of artefacts from its collections. This remnant of Venetian rule is enhanced by the nearby Rimondi Fountain, just down the street at the end of Platanos Square and is one of the town’s most welcoming sights, spilling refreshing streams from several lions’ heads. You’ll come upon several other fountains as you wander through the labyrinth of narrow streets. Arkadiou 28310/53270 Closed weekends.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’sChoice Avli. $$ GREEK In an herb-filled multitiered courtyard that leads to a barrel-vaulted dining room, some of the finest food for miles is skillfully prepared. Refined, distinguished dishes are its calling card; sophisticated but true to their traditional roots. Known for: attentive, yet never overbearing service; tasting menu with matched local wines; enigmatic, inspiring surroundings. Average main: €22 Xanthoudidou 22 28310/26213 www.avli.gr.

Kyria Maria. $ GREEK On a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it small alley behind the Rimondi Fountain, under an arbor of vines, with caged bids chirping away, this homely little taverna serves some accomplished traditional dishes in an atmospheric setting. Lamb in lemon sauce, stuffed calamari, moussaka, yemista (stuffed vegetables)—the menu is a roll call of all the comfort food you can think of, prepared as Grandma would have made it all those years ago. Known for: village-style dishes as you remember them; neighborhood setting on a back alley, steps from the center; friendly service, friendly prices. Average main: €9 Moschovitou 20 28310/29078 Closed Nov.–Apr.

Raki Ba Raki 1600. $ GREEK Opposite Avli, and part of the same stable, on one of Rethmynon’s myriad pretty walkways, this is a modern reinvention of the classic Greek rakadiko—a place to eat small plates and drink raki. Don’t assume the food is an afterthought to drinking, though, this is top-quality mezedes. Known for: best mezedes in town; creative Cretan flavors you won’t find elsewhere; raki!—not just plain, but flavored with fruits and herbs. Average main: €8 Arampatzoglou 17–19 Opposite Avli 28310/58250.

Thalassographia. $ MEDITERRANEAN The name means seascape, a poetic notion for this romantic gathering spot that spreads across a series of terraces wedged between the Fortessa and the azure waters below. Small plates are the order in this easy-going and relaxed place, with a strong selection of local wines and beers, and the best cocktails in town—the ideal spot for watching the sunset over the castle walls on a balmy summer evening. Known for: views of the mighty fortress and the sea beyond; eclectic Mediterranean-focused cuisine; romantic nighttime atmosphere. Average main: €10 Kefalogianhidou 33 28310/52569 Closed Nov.–Mar.

WHERE TO STAY

Avli. $$ HOTEL In a cluster of lovely 16th-century Venetian buildings, centered on a romantic leafy walled yard, accommodations are split between the various properties, and characterfully decorated with sparkling chandeliers, baroque gilt frames, and antique furniture against a backdrop of rough stone and wooden beams. Pros: evocative, intimate abode at the heart of town; personable staff—you are always a name, never a number; romantic courtyard. Cons: unique old buildings means stairs to all rooms; rooms facing restaurant garden can be a little noisy; parking is a couple of streets away, but staff will come and collect your bags. Rooms from: €160 Xanthodidou 22 and Radamanthios 28310/58250 www.avli.gr 12 rooms Breakfast.

Leo Hotel. $ HOTEL Eleni Christonaki oversees this lovely little inn that occupies the 600-year-old house in which she was raised. Pros: attractive, comfortable surroundings; friendly service; central location on a quiet street in the Old Town. Cons: steep stairs and no elevator may pose a problem for some guests; small common areas; not much in the way of amenities. Rooms from: €115 Arkadiou and Vafe 2–4 28310/261967 www.leohotel.gr 8 rooms No meals.

Palazzino di Corina. $ HOTEL Rethymnon has several hotels occupying old palaces, but Corina is one of the most handsome, with pleasant, stylish surroundings that include a nicely planted courtyard surrounding a small plunge pool. Pros: cool courtyard is a perfect place to relax; informal, helpful staff; attached restaurant in pretty cloister next door. Cons: some rooms on upper floors require a climb; street-facing rooms are the noisiest; not all rooms have balconies. Rooms from: €120 Damvergi and Diakou 28310/21205 www.corina.gr 29 rooms Breakfast.

Rimondi Boutique Hotel. $$ HOTEL Step through the heavy 16th-century wooden door of this hotel and you are transported to an oasis of civility away from the bustle of Rethymnon’s busy streets, where two buildings split by a pretty pedestrian alleyway house some of the most sumptuous rooms in town. Pros: loving restoration of Venetian property is full of historical detail; tranquil, quiet atmosphere; garden areas with pools are a delight. Cons: some split-level suites with stairs; rooms in the modern annex are less attractive; parking is a five-minute walk away. Rooms from: €180 Xanthoudidou 21 28310/51001 www.hotelsrimondi.com Closed Nov.–Mar. 34 rooms Breakfast.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Fodor’sChoice Happy Walker. This outfitter arranges easy day hikes in the mountains and gorges near Rethymnon, adding a welcome stop for a village lunch to each walk. The outfit also leads multiday treks through the remote regions of Crete. Walk costs from €35. Tombazi 56 28310/52920 www.happywalker.com Closed late Oct.–Mar.

SHOPPING

Rethymnon’s narrow lanes may remind you of a Middle Eastern souk—or a tacky shopping mall, depending on your frame of mind. If you are looking for something a bit more substantial than, say, playing cards with erotic images of gods and goddesses, you can also find small shops selling some genuinely high-quality goods, whether it’s Cretan olive oil or the work of island craftspeople.

Agora—Avli Raw Materials. This amazing shop sells many of the best herbs, spices, oils, and other ingredients that Greece offers and that flavor the cuisine served just around the corner at the restaurant. Many of the offerings are unique to the shop and give a true taste of the local area. Oil and wine tastings are given, too. Arampatzoglou 38-40 28310/58250 www.avli.gr.

Kalymnos. For a souvenir that will be light to carry, stop in and browse shelves brimming with sponges harvested off the eponymous island and in other Greek waters. Arampatzoglou 26 28310/50802.

VRISSES Βρυσες

26 km (16 miles) west of Rethymnon, 105 km (65 miles) west of Heraklion.

This appealing old village is famous throughout Crete for its thick, creamy yogurt—best eaten with a large spoonful of honey on top—that is served in the cafés beneath the plane trees at the center of town. Georgioupolis, on the coast about 7 km (4½ miles) due west, is another shady, lovely old town, where the Almiros river flows into the sea. Some of the coast here is undergoing rather unattractive development, but inland walks—including one through a eucalyptus-scented valley that links Vrisses and Georgioupolis—make it easy to get away from the fray.

CHANIA Χανια

52 km (32 miles) west of Vrisses, 78 km (48 miles) west of Rethymnon.

Fodor’sChoiceChania surrendered its role as capital of Crete to Heraklion in 1971, but this elegant city of eucalyptus-lined avenues, miles of waterfront promenades, and shady, cobblestone alleyways lined with Venetian and Ottoman houses is still close to the heart of all Cretans. It was here that the Greek flag was raised in 1913 to mark Crete’s unification with Greece, and the place is simply one of the most beautiful of all Greek cities.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Daily ferry service connects Chania with Pireaus, arriving at the harbor on Souda bay every morning at about 6 am and departing around 9 pm. The crossing takes roughly eight hours. During summer, ferries also provide daytime service between Pireaus and Chania, and crossings take six hours. Souda is a 20-minute taxi ride from the town center (€15), and municipal buses also run from Souda to Chania (€1.10). Chania’s airport, also on Souda bay, has daily service from Athens, as well as flights from many European cities, mostly charters, during high season. Buses run from the airport infrequently, so plan on taking a taxi or picking up your rental car at the airport. Hourly buses connect Chania with Rethymnon, about €7, and Heraklion, about €15. Less frequent bus service connects Chania with Kissamos, Paleochora, and many other places in western Crete. The well-organized bus station, with a helpful information desk, is at Kidonias 25, just off Halidon. The city center is well marked from the National road. For parking, drive to the center and make your way, following well-posted parking signs, to the west side of the Old City, where you’ll find free parking near the sea. Be careful where you park, as some places are open only to residents, and violators are fined.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Contacts Diktynna Travel. Archontaki 6 28210/41321 www.diktynna-travel.gr.

EXPLORING

The sizable Old Town is strung along the harbor, divided by a centuries-old seawall into outer and inner harbors, where tall Venetian houses face a pedestrians-only, taverna-lined waterside walkway, and fishing boats moor beside a long stretch of Venetian arsenals and warehouses. Well-preserved Venetian and Turkish quarters surround the harbors and a covered food-and-spice market, a remnant of Venetian trade and Turkish bazaars, is set amid a maze of narrow streets.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Archaeological Museum. The former Venetian church of St. Francis, surrounding a lovely garden in the shadow of the Venetian walls, displays artifacts from all over western Crete and the collection bears witness to the presence of Minoans, ancient Greeks, Romans, Venetians, and Ottomans. The painted Minoan clay coffins and elegant late-Minoan pottery indicate that the region was as wealthy as the center of the island under the Minoans, though no palace has yet been located. Chalidron 25 28210/90334 www.chaniamuseum.culture.gr €4 Closed Mon.

Ayia Triada. Lands at the northeast corner of the Akrotiri peninsula, which extends into the sea from the east side of Chania, are the holdings of several monasteries, including Ayia Triada (Holy Trinity) or Tzagarolon, as it is also known. The olive groves that surround and finance the monastery yield excellent oils, and the shop is stocked with some of the island’s finest. Ayia Triada is a delightful place, where you can visit the flower-filled cloisters and the ornately decorated chapel, which dates from the monastery’s founding in 1611. Today, just a handful of monks remain. Agias Triadas of Tzagarolon, Akrotiri 16 km (10 miles) north of Chania, follow road from Chordaki 28210/63572 www.holytrinity.gr.

Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Collection of Chania. You’ll get some insight into the Venetian occupation and the Christian centuries that preceded it at this small museum housed in the charming 15th-century church of San Salvadore alongside the city walls just behind the Firka. Mosaics, icons, coins, and other artifacts bring to life Cretan civilization as it was after the Roman Empire colonized the island and Christianity took root as early as the 1st century. Theotokopoulou 78–82 28210/96046 odysseus.culture.gr €2 Closed Mon.

Fodor’sChoice Firka. Just across the narrow channel from the lighthouse, where a chain was connected in times of peril to close the harbor, is the old Turkish prison, which now houses the Maritime Museum of Crete. Exhibits, more riveting than might be expected, trace the island’s seafaring history from the time of the Minoans, with a reproduction of an Athenian trireme, amphora from Roman shipwrecks, Ottoman weaponry, and other relics. Look for the photos and mementos from the World War II Battle of Crete, when Allied forces moved across the island and, with the help of Cretans, ousted the German occupiers. Much of the fighting centered on Chania, and great swaths of the city were destroyed during the war. Almost worth the price of admission alone is the opportunity to walk along the Firka’s ramparts for bracing views of the city, sea, and mountains. Chania Waterfront at far west end of port 28210/91875 www.mar-mus-crete.gr €3.

Gouvernetou. This 16th-century, Venetian-era monastery on the north end of the Akrotiri peninsula is said to be one of the oldest and largest remaining religious communities on Crete. Delightful frescoes cover the wall of the courtyard chapel, while a path leads down the flanks of a seaside ravine past several caves used as hermitages and churches to the remote, 11th-century Katholiko, the monastery of St. John the Hermit, who pursued his solitary life in a nearby cave. Follow the path down to the sea along a riverbank for another mile or so to a secluded cove that is the perfect place for a refreshing dip. The return walk requires a steep uphill climb. Stavros Northern end of Akrotiri peninsula, 4 km (2½ miles) north of Ayia Triada; 19 km (12 miles) north of Chania, follow road north from Chordaki 28430/63319 Closed Wed. and Fri.

Venetian Arsenali. As you follow the harbor front east from the mosque, you come to a long line of Venetian arsenali (warehouses) from the 16th and 17th centuries, used to store wares and repair craft. The seawalls swing around to enclose the harbor and end at the old lighthouse that stands at the east side of the harbor entrance; from here you get a magnificent view of the town, with the imposing White mountains looming behind the animated harbor. Akti Enoseos East end of old harbor.

WORTH NOTING

Etz Hayyim Synagogue. This ancient landmark is tucked away in what was once the Jewish ghetto, a warren of narrow lanes known as Evraki, just off the harbor south of the Firka. The building was formerly the Venetian church of St. Catherine, became a synagogue under the Ottomans in the 16th century, and was sorely neglected and near collapse by the end of the 20th century. Venetian Gothic arches, a mikveh (ritual bath), tombs of three rabbis, and other architectural features have been beautifully restored and are a stirring memorial to Crete’s once sizable Jewish population, obliterated during World War II; many Cretan Jews drowned when a British torpedo sunk the ship carrying them toward Auschwitz in 1944. Parodos Kondylaki 28210/86286 www.etz-hayyim-hania.org Closed weekends.

Janissaries Mosque. Kastelli hill creates a backdrop to the Janissaries Mosque, the oldest Ottoman building in Crete, built at the water’s edge when Turks captured the town in 1645 after a two-month siege. You can enter the building only when the town uses it to host temporary art and trade exhibitions, but the presence of the domed structure at the edge of the shimmering sea lends Chania part of its exotic aura. Chania East side of inner harbor.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Samaria Gorge. South of Chania a deep, verdant crevice extends 16 km (10 miles) from near the village of Xyloskalo to the Libyan sea. The landscape of forest, sheer rock faces, and running streams, inhabited by the elusive and endangered kri-kri (wild goat) is magnificent. The Samaria, protected as a national park, is the most traveled of the dozens of gorges that cut through Crete’s mountains and emerge at the sea, but the walk through the canyon, in places only a few feet wide and almost 2,000 feet deep, is thrilling nonetheless. Reckon on five to six hours of downhill walking with a welcome reward of a swim at the end. Buses depart the central bus station in Chania at 7:30 and 8:30 am for Xyloskalo. Boats leave in the afternoon (5:30) from Ayia Roumeli, the mouth of the gorge, where it’s an hour-long scenic sail to Hora Sfakion, from where buses return to Chania. Travel agents also arrange day trips to the gorge. Also from Chania a couple of extremely scenic routes head south across the craggy White mountains to the isolated Libyan sea villages of Paleochora, the main resort of the southwest coast, and Souyia, a pleasant collection of whitewashed houses facing a long beach. Much of this section of the coast, including the village of Loutro, is accessible only by boat or by a seaside path. Samaria 35 km (22 miles) south of Chania, entrance near Omalos €5 Closed Oct. 15–May 1.

BEACHES

A string of beaches extends west from the city center, and you can easily reach them on foot by following the sea past the old olive-oil factory just west of the walls and the Byzantine Museum. They are not idyllic, but the water is clean. Locals who want to spend a day at the beach often head out to some of the best beaches on Crete along the surrounding coastline.

Balos. You already know this beach from every postcard stand in Greece. Seemingly transported from the South Seas, an islet sits dramatically amid a shallow lagoon of bright blue-and-turquoise water framed by white sand. Approach by car along the 8-km (5-mile) very rough dirt road (€1 toll) and you will be rewarded by that picture-perfect panorama. Nevertheless, a half-hour descent on foot to the beach itself, and longer return, is the price to pay. Easier on the legs is to take the boat from Kissamos, which includes a stop at the deserted island Venetian fortress of Gramvousa. Like Vai, it can get very busy here; if you are coming by car, aim to arrive in the morning before the boats, or late in the afternoon once the crowds have left. Amenities: food and drink; parking (free); toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking.

Elafonissi. A peninsula on the western end of the island, about 75 km (45 miles) west of Chania, extends into turquoise waters, with a lagoon on one side and isolated sands and coves on the other. The pink sands, rock formations, and colorful waters evoke the tropics. In places, the peninsula is broken by narrow channels, requiring beachgoers to wade through the warm, shallow waters, adding to the remote aura. The eastern, lagoon side of the peninsula has amenities and is popular with families (the water is never more than a few feet deep) while other parts, especially the western, ocean-facing side, are relatively isolated and frequented by nudists. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: solitude (western end); nudists; snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. Elafonissi.

Falassarna. Often cited as the best beach on the island, Falassarna stretches along the western edge of the island, about 60 km (37 miles) west of Chania. The long expanse of sand is broken into several coves and has a little bit of everything—amenities on the main section, Pacheia Ammos, plenty of isolation in other parts, and even ancient ruins behind the northern end. One small disadvantage is a steady wind from the west, which can make the water choppy (but is a boon for windsurfers). Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets, water sports. Best for: solitude; nudists; sunset; swimming; walking; windsurfing. Falassarna.

Stavros. If this cove at the northern end of the Akrotiri peninsula, about 15 km (9 miles) east of Chania, looks familiar, you may recognize it as the location of the 1964 movie, Zorba the Greek. The onetime fishing village has grown a bit since then but it’s still a charming place, especially with this white-sand beach on a lagoon backed by a steep mountain (it was here that Zorba did his Sirtaki dance); a slightly wilder, less crowded beach is just to the west. Amenities: food and drink; parking (free); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. Stavros.

WHERE TO EAT

Apostolis. $ SEAFOOD On the quieter end of the harbor next to the Venetian arsenals and removed from the tourist joints that surround the port, this lively taverna caters to locals and discerning tourists alike. Fresh fish and seafood are the standouts here, but also consider the stuffed aubergines, stifado, kleftiko (lamb), or the meats from the charcoal grill. Known for: the place the locals go to for the freshest fish; excellent, friendly staff; great people-watching spot right on the front. Average main: €12 Akti Enoseos 10 28210/43470.

Portes. $ MODERN GREEK Relocated from the somewhat cramped alley it occupied in the city center to a pretty harborside spot in Nea Chora, Portes continues to offer some of the best cooking in Chania. Irish-born Susanna has a flare for hospitality, ably abetted by her son front-of-house, and the dishes on offer are always assured and pretty as a picture. Known for: diverse menu of Greek classics with a twist; super pies—octopus and fennel are stars; genial, generous atmosphere. Average main: €10 Akti Papanikoli 1, Nea Chora 28210/76261.

Tamam. $ MEDITERRANEAN Steps away from the busy harbor, Tamam feels like a giant leap back in time—an ancient Turkish bath that now houses one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Chania’s Old Town. Tamam means “alright” in Turkish, but the plates presented are certainly more than okay. Known for: atmospheric 600-year-old building; gently spiced dishes with a nod to Turkey; nice after-dinner treat of Turkish delight and raki. Average main: €10 Zambeliou 49 28210/96080 www.tamamrestaurant.com.

Well of the Turk. $ MEDITERRANEAN In the old Ottoman district of Splantzia, opposite the underground church of Ayia Irene, this restaurant is somewhat difficult to find even with a map, but it is worth the endeavor. It serves a mixture of Greek and Turkish dishes with the odd trip to Northern Africa and the Middle East. Known for: fabulous food away from the crowds; adjoining flower-scented terrace, a nice option in summer; vegetarian moussaka—a revelation. Average main: €12 Kalinikou Sarpaki 1–3, Splantzia 28210/54547 www.welloftheturk.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’sChoice Ammos Hotel. $$ RESORT FAMILY Quite simply, one of the best family hotels in Greece, this is the classic Greek seaside hotel brought bang up-to-date with a chic and funky twist, where Cycladic and Scandinavian design references throughout create an atmosphere that is both modern and timeless. Pros: genuinely friendly and caring service; innovative food sourced from local suppliers; fresh and fun design renovated every year. Cons: 5 km (3 miles) from Chania center (but on a bus route); pool can get busy; some rooms face the pretty gardens rather than the sea. Rooms from: €180 Irakli Avgoula, Glaros beach 28210/33003 www.ammoshotel.com Closed Nov.–early Apr. 33 rooms Breakfast.

Fodor’sChoice Casa Delfino. $$ HOTEL If you have an ounce of romance in your body you’ll love this gorgeous hotel—in 1835 Captain Delfino sailed from Genoa, only to founder on the rocks off Gramvousa, but, smitten by the beauty of Chania, he bought this Renaissance Venetian mansion as his home. Pros: prime position on Chania’s achingly pretty harbor, opposite the lighthouse; superb breakfast in a mosaic pebbled courtyard with homemade specialties; stunning spa and rooftop terrace bar to indulge your senses. Cons: no parking in the town center (but hotel’s golf buggy will collect you); historical building means some stairs; books up early in high season. Rooms from: €200 Theofanous 9 28210/87400 www.casadelfino.com 24 suites Breakfast.

Porto Veneziano. $ HOTEL Nautical themes in blue and white make for a light, airy atmosphere in this harborside establishment, but the main draw are those views of the Venetian waterfront and the White mountains. Pros: great position on the quieter end of the harbor; no smoking throughout the hotel; free bicycles to explore the delights of Chania. Cons: rooms at the rear overlook a pretty garden and not-so-pretty car park; rather plain common areas; standard rooms a little snug. Rooms from: €120 Old Venetian harbor 28210/27100 www.portoveneziano.gr 57 rooms Breakfast.

Samaria Hotel. $$ HOTEL Remodeled in 2013, this is something of a departure from the regular offerings on the Chania hotel scene, having the feel of a luxury business establishment, but with added personality. Pros: quiet, efficient service; contemporary decor is stylish and modern; city-center hotel with a pool—a rarity in Chania. Cons: small pool can get busy; not the prettiest of views from the balconies; some noise from the bus depot at the rear. Rooms from: €155 Kidonias 69 28210/38600 www.samariahotel.gr 84 rooms Breakfast.

SHOPPING

The most exotic shopping experience in town is a stroll through Chania’s covered market to see local merchants selling rounds of Cretan cheese, jars of golden honey, lengths of salami, salt fish, lentils, and herbs.

Carmela. This enticing store just off the harbor sells the work of contemporary jewelers and other craftspeople from Crete and throughout Greece, as well as the work of owner Carmela Iatropoulou and her artist husband. Aggelou 7 28210/90487.

Top Hanak Old Cretan Blankets and Kilims. Many of these antique blankets and rugs were made for dowries from homespun wool and natural dyes. Aggelou 3 28210/98571.