Although Kérkyra Town (Corfu Town) is the heart and soul of the island, like most capitals it is neither typical nor representative. Unless you are travelling independently or just visiting Corfu briefly, it is unlikely that you will be staying overnight in Kérkyra Town.
The vast majority of Corfu’s visitors are on package tours and invariably stay on the coast at a broad range of accommodation – from cheap-and-cheerful hotels to luxury villas. Nonetheless, Kérkyra Town acts as a magnet for shoppers, culture vultures, or the merely curious, and it rarely disappoints. Located about halfway down the east coast, it is within striking distance of any spot on the island and makes a useful reference point for us to begin our island tour.
We shall divide this tour as follows:
The South. The long, narrow southern portion of the island is often described (usually by people who haven’t been to Corfu) as nothing more than a party zone. This is certainly true of its extremity (Kávos) but is not the case when applied to the whole area. The Achilleion Palace is Corfu’s most-visited cultural attraction, while the long laid-back beaches of Ágios Geórgios Argyrádon and peaceful fishing villages such as Boúkari provide a sharp contrast to the busy resorts of Benítses, Moraïtika and Mesongí.
North of Kérkyra Town. Immediately north of the capital is the most developed part of the island. Its resorts are mostly hidden from the main road, occupying the large bays and inlets on this stretch of coastline.
The Northeast. Look at any website or brochure for expensive Corfu villas and you will find most are in the small area between Barbáti and Kassiópi. The Durrells made Kalámi the most famous resort on this stretch, but there are many similar ones nestling in the exquisite tiny coves that make this area ‘connoisseur’s Corfu’. A short distance inland looms Mt Pandokrátor.
The North and Northwest. While the north coast is well developed and dominated by the resorts of Sidári and Róda, the northwest remains something of a mystery to many visitors. The resorts of Ágios Geórgios Págon and Ágios Stéfanos Gýrou are very different from their namesakes south and east, respectively. The jewel of the northwest is Paleokastrítsa, boasting one of the most beautiful bays in all of Europe and retaining some charm despite its huge popularity.
The West. Between Érmones and Ágios Górdis, the west coast has superb sandy beaches. Despite often-tricky road access, they are no secret any longer, and mostly well developed.
People in Corfu town
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Kérkyra Town
Kérkyra Town 1 [map] (Corfu Town) is a beguiling place, with a relaxed, old-world elegance that rivals other Mediterranean cities many times its size. Its predominantly Venetian architecture is harmoniously flavoured with French and English-Georgian building styles, reflecting the influence of several centuries of foreign occupation. A cosmopolitan nature prevails, especially at night, when Corfiots and visitors stroll along the Listón and rendezvous at the many cafés and restaurants. In early August the atmosphere is very Italian.
Arriving in the Capital
If you are driving into Kérkyra Town, it’s best to park just south of the old town, in the vicinity of the Archaeological Museum, especially along Dimokratías Avenue, where street parking is free. Parking at the old harbour, or along the Spianáda, tempting as that might seem, is heavily controlled and expensive. Driving in Kérkyra Town is less stressful than its myriad streets would suggest, thanks to an efficient one-way system.
Public buses set down either at San Rocco Square (blue urban buses) or near the New Fort (green long-distance buses). San Rocco Square (Sarókko in Greek) can be intimidatingly busy at most times of the day. Although it is only a stone’s throw away from the tourist centre of Corfu, this is a very ‘Greek’ part of town, with most shops and businesses – especially along Georgíou Theotóki leading up to the Puorta Reale entrance to the old town – catering to locals. Visitors who arrive by coach excursion disembark close to the Old Fort and the grassy gardens of the Spianáda. Those arriving by ferry at the new harbour will find it a good 1.5km (just under 1 mile) walk into town (occasional buses).
Our description of the town inevitably involves some backtracking and close reading of the back-flap map. Kérkyra Town might be a relatively small place, but it is impossible to do justice in a single day. You should certainly aim to come here on Tuesday, Thursday or Friday, when shops open in the evening.
Around the Spianáda (Esplanade)
The focal point of Kérkyra Town is the Spianáda (Esplanade) A [map]. Families promenade, marching bands parade and festive occasions are frequently celebrated on this broad green expanse separating the Old Fort from the rest of town. Buildings formerly here were razed in Venetian times to give a clear field of fire against enemy assault, and it was also used for fairs and jousting tournaments. The French later planted the trees and flower gardens.
On the southern half of the Spianáda is the plain Ionian Monument, which celebrates the island’s union with Greece in 1864. It is surrounded by marble reliefs displaying the symbols of the seven Ionian Islands, known as the Eptánisa in Greek. Nearby are the Victorian bandstand (where Sunday concerts are held in summer) and the Maitland Rotunda, dedicated to the first British high commissioner. At the far end is the statue of Greece’s first president (1827–31) and Corfu’s greatest son, Ioannis Kapodistrias.
Palace of St Michael and St George
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The Esplanade’s most famous landmark is the now somewhat abbreviated cricket pitch dominating its northern half. Corfu adopted this sport during British rule, and enthusiastic local teams keep the tradition alive with matches during the season.
Across the north side of the Spianáda stands the imposing Palace of St Michael and St George B [map], erected between 1819 and 1824 by Maltese masons as the residence for the British high commissioners, with a neoclassical façade of 32 Doric columns linking triumphal arches. It also housed the Ionian senate. When the British left, Greek royalty used it as a summer residence. The bronze toga-clad figure that stands above a lily pond in front of the palace is Sir Frederick Adam, Britain’s second high commissioner. The pool and its waterspouts are there to remind people that Adam was the first to ensure Kérkyra Town a reliable water supply, with an aqueduct system still in use today.
That’s Cricket
Kérkyra Town cricket pitch is one of the most unusual sports grounds in the world. Kim Hughes, the Australian captain during the early 1980s, once hit a mighty six right over the gardens and into the moat of the Old Fort here.
The mixed cultural heritage of the island can be heard in the cricketing language. ‘Play’ is the Corfiot name for cricket. But, perhaps because of the long association with the Venetians, more than one term used during play has been lifted from Italian. So when a ‘long hop’ becomes primo salto and cricket stumps are xýla (‘woods’ in Greek), the English might feel at a loss in their own game. Still, when the former England captain David Gower was asked where he had enjoyed playing the most, his immediate reply was: ‘It has to be Corfu’.
Today the cricket pitch in Kérkyra Town is mainly used by the island’s under-18 and under-14 youth teams, since the size of the pitch was reduced to make room for a car park. Adult matches take place in the newer cricket ground at Gouvia Marina.
The palace’s staterooms now house the Museum of Asian Art (daily 8am–8pm, closes earlier in winter; www.matk.gr). Its collection of nearly 11,000 Asian artefacts is one of the most comprehensive of its kind in the world. Pieces in the original east wing include funerary statuary and bowls, pottery and blue-and-white porcelain from various Chinese dynasties. The newer, west wing features a superb miscellany donated in 1974: Hindu and Jain deities, Gandhara relief work, and Buddhist devotional art from every south Asian nation. Since 2015 there has been a permanent exhibition of Japanese Art with fine examples of Japanese folding screens and painted hanging scrolls, as well as woodblock prints by such masters as Hokusai and Utamaro. Seven galleries are dedicated to the art of preparing Tea, to the Noh and Kyogen theatre, the life of a geisha and a Samurai warrior.
Around the back of the palace (on the Old Fort side), facing lovely sea-view gardens, is the lesser-known Municipal Art Gallery (daily 8.30am–3pm; free; www.artcorfu.com), a modest, eight-room collection comprising mostly 19th and 20th century works by Corfiot artists. Look for the Assassination of Kapodistrias in Room 2 – portraying the murder of the island’s most famous native son – as well as George Samartzis’ charming, French-inspired Night in Corfu in Room 5, which shows that even in 1913, the Listón was the place to be. Room 3 contains several fine 16th-century icons; two by the refugee Cretan master Mihaïl Damaskinos. After browsing the pictures, enjoy a coffee and cake in the delightful setting of the adjacent Art Gallery Café.
On the opposite side of the palace, just across the street, stands a pretty yellow building with an arcaded façade and an outside staircase. This is home to the Anagnostikí Etería Kérkyras (Corfu Reading Society; Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm, Mon, Wed, Fri pm by appointment only; http://anagnostikicorfu.com), the oldest cultural institution in modern Greece, founded in 1836, and housing a vast archive of photographs, books, manuscripts and other documents. The interiors are also worth a look.
The elegant arcades of the Listón C [map] border the west side of the Spianáda. Inspired by the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, it was erected by the French in 1807. Its name comes from the ‘list’ of noble families who were the only ones initially permitted to walk here. These days everyone gathers at the many cafés and bars under the arches or beneath the trees along the green. During the evening pedestrianised Eleftherías out front is transformed into a bustling promenade of Corfiots and visitors alike, from dapper elderly men to smartly dressed families.
Stroll down the length of Kapodistríou Street, which runs from behind the Listón to the southern end of the green. It is lined with handsome townhouses, most of which were built by the Venetian-era aristocracy, and several picturesque perpendicular streets lead off into town. Moustoxýdou Street, for example, used to be an important thoroughfare and was also the setting for jousting displays during Carnival, with the judges seated on the balcony above the ornate portico of the Ricchi mansion. At the very end of Kapodistríou, on Ioníou Akadimías, looms the pink façade of the former Ionian Academy, founded in 1824 by Lord Guilford as the first modern Greek university. Like much of the surrounding area, it has been completely rebuilt after suffering destruction in the heavy bombing of 1943, and today appropriately is used by the University of the Ionian.
Dousmáni Street cuts across the Esplanade to the Old Fort. Here you will find a string of colourful 19th-century horse-cabs (carrozzi), which will take you on a ride around Kérkyra Town. Be sure to agree on the fare before you set out.
Combined ticket
You can save a considerable amount on site admissions by buying a combined ticket for €8. This allows entry to the Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Asian Art, the Antivouniotissa Byzantine Museum and the Old Fort, over a period of a few days.
The Paleó Froúrio (Old Fort)
Kérkyra Town grew up on the eastern peninsula around the Paleó Froúrio D [map] (Old Fort; Apr–Oct daily 8am–8pm, Nov–Mar 8.30am–3pm), first established by the Byzantines during the 6th century after the Ostrogoth raids. The two peaks of the promontory on which it stands were the source of the name Corfu, a corruption of koryfí (summit in Greek).
A statue of Count Johann Matthias von der Schulenburg, the German mercenary who led the Corfiot defence against the Turkish attack of 1716, stands outside the fortress’s west gate, one of the many fortifications added by the Venetians to the older Byzantine citadel on the eastern peak. Its defensive moat, the Contrafossa, is lined with small fishing boats and utility sheds, making for a very picturesque and peaceful scene. In turbulent times in the past, the bridge beyond the gate could be raised, cutting off land access to the fort.
The Venetian administration was based here; subsequently the British built barracks and a military hospital. The fort was then used by the Greek army until 1979. Today it houses a public library and some exhibition spaces. Once inside the fort complex, a path to the right leads to the neoclassical garrison church of Ágios Geórgios, built by the British in 1840 as an Anglican chapel and restored after damage during World War II. Now converted to a Greek Orthodox church, it has a fine stone iconostasis and icons but, thanks partly to its origins, is plain and box-like inside; interior columns disappeared during the restoration.
Come back toward the entrance, where a stone path leads past a Venetian clocktower up to the lighthouse on the higher peak. The steep climb is well worth it for the spectacular panorama of Kérkyra Town, the harbour, the mainland coast and Mt Pandokrátor to the north.
From the Listón to the Néo Froúrio
From the northern end of the Listón, walk along Kapodistríou Street, past the Corfu Reading Society, and enter Arseníou Street. Look back to your right for a fine view of the Old Fort and its marina. Immediately below you is the small promontory of Faliráki E [map], with a clutch of cafés, snack bars and a swimming lido.
The densely wooded islet just offshore is Vídos Island, today a nature reserve but once a base for the Ottoman attacks of 1537 and 1716. More famously, the island served as a quarantine station for the most hopeless cases of the 150,000-strong Serbian army who retreated to Corfu in early 1916. About 1,200 casualties were buried on the island itself (they are now commemorated by a mausoleum), but the burial capacity of rocky Vídos was soon exceeded, and almost 10,000 more were buried at sea adjacent, an episode immortalised in the poem by Serb Milutin Bojić, Plava Grobica (Blue Grave – also with a memorial plaque on Vídos). Today, boats regularly shuttle between the island and the Old Port.
A short way along Arseníou Street, a flight of steps leads to the excellent Mousío Andivouniótissas (Byzantine Museum) F [map], housed in the eponymous 15th-century basilica (Tue–Sun 8.30am–3pm; www.antivouniotissamuseum.gr). The single-aisle, timber-roofed church is one of the oldest and richest on the island, with an exonarthex (vestibule) surrounding it on three sides. This is used today to exhibit an impressive array of icons from the 15th to 19th centuries, many of the so-called ‘Cretan School’; after the fall of Crete to the Ottomans, many highly skilled artists came as refugees to Venetian-held Corfu.
Around the corner, the imposing profile of the Néo Froúrio (New Fort) G [map] (daily 8.30am–3pm, 8am–8pm in summer; free) heaves into view beyond the Old Port. The New Fort (also known as the Fort of San Marco) was built by the Venetians between 1572 and 1645, shortly after the first major Ottoman siege. You can see the Venetian emblem – the winged lion of St Mark – in stone relief above the massive gates. The French, and later the British, elaborated the fortifications. The town’s fruit and vegetable market is now held in the dry moat on the western side. A series of secret tunnels is said to connect the new and old fortresses (and even Vídos). Occasionally, temporary exhibitions or concerts are held inside the walls, but the finest sight is the superb view of Kérkyra Town and the mainland coast.
Corfiots pray to him, swear by him, name their sons after him and honour him with a remarkable passion. He is the island’s beloved patron saint, yet he wasn’t even born on Corfu. Spyridon was a village shepherd on the distant island of Cyprus. He became a monk, then a bishop, and was noted for his devoutness and ability to effect minor miracles. After his death in AD 348, a sweet odour wafted from his grave; his body was exhumed and found to be perfectly preserved. The saint’s remains were taken to Constantinople, but were smuggled out (with those of St Theodora Augusta) before the Turkish occupation in 1453. Unceremoniously wrapped in a sack of straw strapped to a mule, the remains arrived in Corfu in 1456. In time, Spyridon became the object of enthusiastic veneration.
To honour his miracles, his casket is paraded through Kérkyra Town in colourful processions on Orthodox Palm Sunday, Easter Saturday, 11 August, and the first Sunday in November. St Spyridon has reputedly saved the island four times: twice from the plague, once from famine, and once (in 1716) from the Turks. Small wonder that numerous Corfiot men are named Spyros.
The Commercial Centre
The town centre essentially lies between the New Fort and the Esplanade, a warren of narrow, pedestrianised, marble-paved lanes arranged in discrete, historic districts. The main commercial artery, linking the Listón and the old harbour in Spiliá district, is Nikifórou Theotóki – just one of several thoroughfares named after members of this long-established, illustrious Corfiot family. To the south, in Pórta Remoúnda district, and north, in the Kofinéta neighbourhood, numerous parallel streets intersect Kapodistríou.
The main square along Nikifórou Theotóki is officially Platía Iróön Kypriakón Agonistón (Square of the Cypriot Fighters), with a statue of Corfiot politician Georgios Theotoki (1843–1916) in the middle; however, because the west side of the plaza is bounded by the 1846-vintage building that once housed the island’s oldest bank, the Ioniki (Ionian), everybody calls it Platía Ionikí. Four galleries on the upper storey above the present-day Alpha Bank here are home to the Banknote Museum H [map] (Apr–Sep Wed–Fri 9am–2pm, Wed and Fri 5–8.30pm, Sat–Sun 8.30am–3pm, winter Wed–Sun 8am–3pm; free; www.alphapolitismos.gr), featuring an extensive display of every Greek drachma (the pre-2002 currency) denomination issued as well as Ionian Bank shares and documents. More interesting than it sounds, this impressive collection illustrates all the stages in designing, printing and releasing notes for circulation.
Across from the bank stands the Faneroméni church, also called Panagía ton Xénon (Our Lady of the Foreigners) because it was used by refugees from the mainland during the Ottoman occupation. Erected in 1689, it is lavishly decorated with gilded wood, a beautifully painted ceiling and icons by Cretan painters. Opposite is a simpler church, Ágios Ioánnis o Pródromos (St John the Baptist). Built in 1520, it was formerly Corfu’s cathedral and also contains important Cretan-school icons.
The bell tower of Ágios Spyrídon
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The red-domed bell tower of the church of Ágios Spyrídon I [map], the tallest on the island, rises north of the square, at the top of the broad stairway known as the Plakáda t’Agíou. It was founded in 1590 to house the mummified body of Corfu’s beloved patron saint, who lies in an ornate silver coffin in a shrine to the right of the altar. On certain days the casket is opened, and on special feast days the saint is paraded upright through the town. His shrunken face can be seen through a glass panel, and his slippered feet are exposed for the faithful to kiss. With all the opulent Venetian oil lamps swinging above the casket (plus the chandeliers and the candelabra), this modest, dimly lit church is said to have the greatest amount of silver of any Greek church outside the island of Tínos. Frescoes on the ceiling depict the saint’s miracles.
Leave the church by the door onto Agíou Spyrídonos Street, turning left to meet Filarmonikís Street. Here you can turn right to explore the Campiello district. Alternatively you can turn left to reach M. Theotóki Street to see more of the shopping district. (If you have time do both, see the Old Town first and then retrace your steps.)
The marble-clad Town Hall
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Follow M. Theotóki Street south, past the lovely, compact Platía Vrahlióti with a well in the centre, until emerging onto tiered Platía Dimarhíou J [map] (Town Hall Square), offically Platía Mihaïl Theotóki. At the bottom end sits the Dimarhío (Town Hall), one of Corfu’s most decorative buildings. Built by the Venetians in 1665 out of white marble from the eastern slopes of Mt Pandokrátor, its original single-storey loggia served as a meeting place for the nobility. It was converted into the San Giacomo Theatre in 1720, and later a second storey was added. It became the Town Hall in 1903 when the municipal theatre (destroyed in 1943) was constructed. The façade is adorned with carved masks and medallions. On the eastern wall there is a bust of Francesco Morosini, the Venetian commander who defeated the Ottomans at Athens in 1687.
The tiers of the plaza are crowded with the tables of a popular café and expensive, touristy restaurants; in off hours local boys find the layout irresistible for skateboarding. The imposing building diagonally opposite the Dimarhío is the Catholic Cathedral of Ágii Iákovos ke Hristóforos (SS James and Christopher), dating from 1632. It is frequently open for use by Corfu’s large Catholic community, about 3,000 strong and entirely descended from 19th-century Maltese stonemasons brought here by the British.
From Platía Dimarhíou, continue south into the lanes of Pórta Remoúnda, where the main sight, at Moustoxýdou 19, is the Serbian Museum K [map] (Mon–Sat 9am–2pm; free), which with military paraphernalia, documents and photographs meticulously documents the experiences of the Serbian army and government-in-exile here during World War I, when over 150,000 soldiers rested at scattered campsites between Pyrgí and Moraïtika from January 1916 onwards. Besides Greece, the only one of their notional allies who provided supplies or medical assistance to the defeated army in an official capacity was France – though a period poster, issued by a US-based relief committee, makes interesting reading (‘Save Serbia, Our Ally’) in light of the American 1990s demonisation of the country. The refugees got on famously with their hosts – there were no reports of looting or other improper behaviour – and a number of marriages with local girls resulted, as about 10,000 Serbs stayed on Corfu until 1918.
The Old Town
The Old Town is the fascinating maze of narrow streets, steep stairways and arched alleys squeezed into the northern half of Kérkyra Town, between the Spianáda and the Old Port. It has been described as Greece’s largest ‘living medieval town’. As you wander along the marble-paved streets, you might feel that this traffic-free quarter of tottering multi-storey buildings is like a miniature Venice – minus the canals, of course; the northernmost part has even retained its Venetian name, Campiello L [map]. There are many ways of entering the Campiello, and it is an excellent place to simply wander at will.
In Venetian times, the area between the old and new forts was surrounded by city walls (demolished during the 19th century). As Corfiots weren’t permitted to live outside the fortifications, the only direction in which they could expand their dwellings was upwards, producing the district’s unusually high architecture. And, just as in the less-touristy parts of Venice, much of the district’s appeal is in its residential atmosphere, with laundry strung across alleyways, old women sitting on stools weaving or keeping an eye on babies, and cats snoozing in tiny sun-splashed squares. The only ‘sight’ is the charming 17th-century Venetian Well on the Campiello’s Platía Kremastí (officially Líla Desýlla), where a notable restaurant sets out its tables.
From just below Platía Kremastí, Agías Theodóras Street leads to Corfu’s Orthodox Cathedral M [map], built in 1577 and dedicated to St Theodora Augusta, the island’s second-most-revered saint (after Spyridon). Her headless body, which was spirited out of Constantinople (along with Spyridon’s), lies in a silver reliquary to the right of the altar screen. Broad flights of steps lead down to the harbour, and Corfiots often momentarily pause here to light a candle before or after embarking on a sea journey.
From just below the cathedral, traverse restaurant-and-café-rich Spiliá district along Prosaléndou, then Solomoú, streets, watching for signs indicating Corfu’s sole surviving synagogue in the old Evraïkí (Jewish) quarter. The Scuola Greca N [map] (May–Sept Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; donation) at Velisaríou 4 has been lovingly restored, and the upstairs prayer hall has a memorial plaque to the 1,900 local Jews deported to Auschwitz in June 1944. The local community of about 60 is now too small to support a rabbi; one comes from Israel for the major holidays.
Archaeological Treasures
From either the Scuola Greca or the Serbian Museum, it’s a short, pleasant walk south – along the coastal avenue in the latter case – to the island’s Archaeological Museum O [map] (due to reopen in late 2015 after renovation).
This airy, modern building houses superb artefacts from all periods of ancient Korkyra. The star attraction, the Gorgon pediment (c.585 BC) comes from the Temple of Artemis and is so named for its central sculpted Medusa (the most infamous of the three snake-haired gorgons), shown with wings at her shoulders, winged sandals, and serpents at her waist. She is flanked by her offspring, born from her dying blood: Pegasus, the winged horse, and the hero Khrysaor. Beside her stand two alert lion-panthers waiting to obey the commands of this monster who, according to myth, turned anyone who met her gaze to stone. The pediment was discovered in 1912 at Paleópolis and is Greece’s oldest existing monumental sculpture. What makes it particularly fearsome are the bulging eyes and the sheer scale: she stands some 3m (10ft) tall.
Not so colossal – but almost as important archaeologically – is the Archaic Lion of Menekrates. This late 7th-century BC sculpture, in near-perfect condition, was found in 1843 and is thought to have graced the grave of a warrior during Korkyra’s struggle for independence from Corinth. It is considered one of the most beautiful ancient animal sculptures.
Among the museum’s other treasures, unjustly eclipsed by the Gorgon pediment, is a small pediment from 500 BC, showing the god Dionysos and a youth reclining at a symposium, holding a rhyton (pouring vessel) and a kylix (drinking cup) respectively. A dozen small statues of the goddess Artemis in her avatar as mistress of beasts are thought to have been produced as votive offerings for local worshippers.
Some three blocks southwest of the museum stands the tomb of Menekrates, on Maraslí, a circular structure with a conical roof honouring a mercenary who fought for Korkyra. It dates from about 600 BC. Continue inland along this street, then west onto Kolokotróni, to the serenely beautiful British Cemetery P [map]. Among the tall cypress trees and meticulously kept flowers and shrubbery (beautiful wild flowers, even orchids, also grow here) lie graves dating from 1814 to recent years of civilian and of British servicemen from the two World Wars. The circular wall south of the cemetery encloses the local jail (fylakí). Built by the British, it was once the most modern penal institute in Europe, with individual cells for inmates. It is still in use today, though ironically it now has one of the worst reputations in Greece.
Kardaki Spring
Near the roundabout at Análipsi, a steep path leads down to Kardáki Spring. The water that flows from the mouth of a stone lion – cool in the summer and warm in the winter – is reputed never to dry up. Legend has it that anyone who drinks from the spring is destined to return to Corfu.
Southern Suburbs
To explore this part of Corfu you will need transport, or be willing to hop on and off blue city buses marked ‘2 KANONI’. Head south along the coastal road for about 2km (a mile or so) and turn inland (right) to the Byzantine Church of Ágii Iáson ke Sosípatros Q [map] (daily 8.30am–2pm), one of only two Byzantine churches surviving intact on the island. It is dedicated to saints Jason and Sosipater, the evangelists credited with bringing Christianity to Corfu in the 2nd century. The present church dates back to about 1000, and conforms to a type then popular on the Greek mainland – a domed, cross-in-square ground plan with a narthex and triple apse. The black marble columns separating the narthex from the main church, and huge poros blocks in the walls, come from ancient buildings. Few frescoes have survived, but there are fine icons in the Baroque chancel.
Further along the road to Kanóni stands the entrance to the villa and gardens of Mon Repos R [map]. Built in 1820 by High Commissioner Frederick Adam as a summer residence, it later became the property of the Greek royal family. Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, was born here in 1921. Mon Repos was subsequently the subject of an ownership dispute between ex-king Constantine and the government, only resolved in 1996. Since then the villa has been restored and now contains the Museum of Paleópolis (summer daily 8am–4pm, winter Tue–Sun 8am–3pm). While the contents are not generally world beating, the displays are well laid out and labelled, with interesting temporary exhibits. There are period furnishings from Adams’ time, a useful interactive model of the ancient town and environs, photos of archaeological digs, and a wealth of thematically arranged finds from the grounds of the estate, especially the shrine at Kardáki. Paths outside wind along the wooded promontory, past a derelict chapel, to a scenic viewpoint; from here it’s another 15 minutes’ walk to the remains of a small Doric temple dating from 500 BC.
Ancient Korkyra
Opposite the Mon Repos gate lie the commanding ruins of the originally 5th-century basilica of Iovianós S [map] (Agía Kérkyra; open irregularly), oldest church on the island, constructed from remnants of nearby pagan temples. Once five-aisled, it was ruined by invaders, rebuilt to a smaller scale during ensuing centuries, then destroyed again in World War II before being partially restored in 2000.
The original Corinthian-founded city of Korkyra sprawled over much of the area between Mon Repos and Kanóni, now called Paleópolis. A narrow road behind the Roman baths (open) opposite the basilica leads to the hamlet of Análipsi, thought to be the location of the ancient acropolis, unsurprisingly with excellent views over Mon Repos.
Along the road toward Kanóni, you’ll see a side road marked ‘Stratía’. Here are the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, source of the Gorgon Pediment. Next door is the well-kept monastery of Agíon Theodóron. At the end of this road stands the only surviving section of the ancient city wall, a 5th-century BC tower, which in Byzantine times became the church of Panagía Neratzíha.
The monastery of Panagía Vlahernón off the Kanóni Peninsula
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Kanóni
Generations of earlier visitors knew Kanóni 2 [map] as a tranquil green peninsula, a pleasant walk or carriage ride south of the capital. Popular with Corfiots, it also used to attract large groups of British residents, who came to admire the most famous view on the island: the two islets resting peacefully in the Halikopoúlou lagoon.
Times have changed, as modern hotels and blocks of flats have disfigured the landscape. The motivation for building here is unclear, as most views are of the shallow, muddy lagoon and the adjacent international airport runway, complete with thunderous sound effects. In fact, it might be said that Kanóni has come full circle: its name derives from the gun battery that the French installed on the hillside here in 1798. Nevertheless, the delightful picture-postcard view of the islets and the coastal scenery beyond them remains intact, attracting an endless stream of tour buses to Kanóni.
The islet in the foreground – linked to the mainland by a causeway – is not Mouse Island but Vlahérna, which is home to a pretty, white, post-Byzantine convent (Panagía Vlahernón; usually shut). Mouse Island (or Pondikonísi) lies a three-minute boat trip away, though in reality it is of little interest and hardly worth the journey. Mouse Island is the main contender for the site of the mythical Odyssean ship turned to stone.
A pair of café-restaurants on the hillside provide a relaxing terrace from which to enjoy the magnificent view. A pedestrian causeway below leads across the lagoon to Pérama.
Corfu’s most popular tourist sight: the Achilleion Palace
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The Achilleion Palace
With a romantic past as an imperial hideaway forming a large part of it’s attraction, the Achilleion (Ahíllio) Palace 3 [map] (daily Apr–Oct 8am–7pm, Nov–Mar 9am–3.30pm; www.achillion-corfu.gr) is one of the most popular sights on the island, and usually teeming with tour groups. Used as a location in the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only, the palace is situated some 10km (6 miles) south of Kérkyra Town.
The beautiful Empress Elisabeth of Austria (nicknamed Sisi) fell in love with this site on a visit to the island during the 1860s. In 1889 – desperately unhappy in her marriage, stifled by the pomp of Vienna and stricken by the suicide of her only son – she bought this land and commissioned the building of a palace that would be worthy of her idol, the Greek hero Achilles. The result, built in extreme neoclassical style, was immediately criticised as being tasteless and ostentatious. It was described by British writer Lawrence Durrell as ‘a monstrous building’ and by the American Henry Miller as ‘the worst piece of gimcrackery I have ever laid eyes on’
The empress nonetheless spent as much time as she possibly could at the Achilleion, in utmost seclusion in the spring and autumn of each year. But poor Sisi had only seven years to enjoy her palace. Her tragic life came to a premature end in 1898 when, during a visit to Geneva, she was mortally stabbed by an Italian anarchist.
Statue highlight
Among all the statues scattered about the grounds, only one is considered by experts to have any artistic merit: the dramatic Dying Achilles, by German sculptor Ernst Herter.
In 1908 Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany acquired the palace from Sisi’s daughter, inviting dignitaries from all over Europe to attend parties and concerts here. Because most arrived by boat, he built a bridge at the seashore that crossed the coastal road to paths leading directly to his palace. Only the ruins of the bridge, ironically destroyed by the German army in 1943, remain today. The Kaiser also installed an awesome 4.5-ton bronze Victorious Achilles, which looms some 11.5m (38ft) high at the far end of the formal gardens.
The Achilleion was used as a military hospital during World War I by the Serbs and the French (whose casualties lie in a cemetery just downhill). In 1919 it became the property of the Greek government, as war reparations, and from 1962 to 1983 its opulent upper floors were converted into a casino. In the 1990s, after renovation and the removal of its casino, the palace was opened to the public, though only half a dozen ground-floor rooms can be visited.
The Achilleion is adorned throughout by pseudo-Classical statues, with Greek gods, goddesses and heroes filling every corner. Those surrounding the Peristyle of the Muses, behind the palace, are copies of the ones in Rome’s Villa Borghese gardens. Do make sure to peer through the window here to see the giant painting The Triumph of Achilles by Franz Matz. (It is on the first floor of the palace, which is closed to the public.) Our hero is shown in brutal, vengeful form dragging the body of Hector behind his chariot as a reprisal for the killing of Achilles’ friend Patroklos.
Inside, the ground-floor rooms house a small chapel and the original furnishings and memorabilia of the empress and the Kaiser. One unusual attraction is the adjustable saddle on which Wilhelm used to sit while writing at his desk.
The extensive grounds are perhaps the true highlight of the Achilleion. The manicured formal gardens are a real pleasure, with magnificent sweeping views over the island.
The South
Benítses 4 [map], some 12km (7.5 miles) south of the capital, used to be the island’s nonstop party town, but no longer; it now attracts a much quieter clientele. The town has also revamped its image with the opening of a smart new marina opposite the main square.
Arriving from the north, the first thing you will see in Benítses is the Corfu Shell Museum (Mar–May and Oct daily 10am–6pm, June–Sept 10am–9pm). This impressive exhibition of seashells, corals, fossils, starfish and sponges was collected throughout the world by an Australian-Corfiot. The many specimens on display range from huge clamshells to tiny delicate cowries, fearsome shark’s jaws, spiny crustacean skeletons and stuffed pufferfish.
Benítses has been settled since at least Roman times; behind the harbour square stand the meagre remains of what was once a Roman bathhouse. This old village centre, near the port, has a very Greek atmosphere, with pretty cottages that retain the character of the original fishing settlement. The lush valley at the western edge of town is crisscrossed with footpaths in an unexpected wilderness.
The Venerable Olive
Almost everyone on Corfu owns a few olive trees. In Venetian times, peasants were paid a bonus for every 100 trees planted, and by the 17th century a family’s wealth was determined by the number of trees it owned. Today there are said to be 3.5 million of them on the island.
According to legend, St Spyridon appeared in an olive grove and proclaimed that cutting or beating the trees was cruel. As a result, for many years Corfiots neither pruned the branches nor picked the fruit. Instead, they let the olives fall to the ground naturally, where huge nets were spread to catch them. Today, however, pruning – and some combing out of the fruit – is practiced. Trees bear fruit only every other year and might take 12 years to yield a first crop.
Moraïtika and Mesongí
The busy coastal road continues south as far as the contiguous resorts of Moraïtika and Mesongí, 20km (12.5 miles) from Kérkyra Town. They lie at the mouth of – and are divided by – the Mesongí river (rowboat ferries cross it). This is an attractive spot, with fishing and pleasure boats moored alongside the riverfront.
Moraïtika 5 [map] is the busier and livelier of the pair. Its older section is set on a hill just off the main road and marked by a red-and-yellow campanile (bell tower). There is no tourist development up here, just an attractive taverna or two providing a nice contrast to the seaside resort below. Like Moraïtika, Mesongí 6 [map] features an increasing amount of development, now spreading back from the long, but very narrow beaches. Behind the beach, Mesongí has some of Corfu’s oldest olive groves, planted by the Venetians over 500 years ago.
From here the main road south curves inland and reaches a T-junction at Áno Mesongí. The route north takes you inland through the pastoral scenery of the Mesongí river valley before ascending the slopes of Corfu’s second-tallest mountain, the 576m (1,889ft) Ágii Déka (‘Ten Saints’). From Ágii Déka village 7 [map] there are spectacular views over Benítses and the distant Kanóni Peninsula.
Sea shore taverna at Boukari
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
An alternative route to the southern tip of the island involves following the minor road that runs along the coast southeast from Mesongí. Along this peaceful, tree-shaded shore are small seafood tavernas and narrow, pebbly beaches where you can soak up the tranquil bay view. This pretty stretch ends at the small fishing village of Boúkari. But if you would like a little more of the same, you can continue along the coast road to Petríti, another quiet spot where fresh fish is a speciality.
The Korission Lagoon
This lagoon was artificially created with a channel from the sea by the Venetians as a fish nursery, for which it is still used. Today it is a protected area, off-limits for swimming or boating, but bird-watchers will find plenty to observe here, in spring or autumn.
Southwest Beaches
Directly opposite here, on Corfu’s southwest coast, lies the island’s longest sandy beach, divided into various resorts. To reach it from Boúkari, return to the main road where the old monastery at Argyrádes sports a striking Venetian belfry. Head east for 2km (1.2 miles) and at Marathiás village a sign to Paralía Marathiá points to the right, down to the beach; the road forks, with the left option skirting a small stream separating the contiguous stretch of beach known as Agía Varvára 8 [map]. It’s easy enough to ford the stream, but by car the low-key development at Agía Varvára is accessible only by a separate road from Perivóli village. Together they form an attractive broad stretch of soft golden sand, with a few naturists under the cliffs of the Agía Varvára section.
Agía Varvára is part of the longest sandy beach on all Corfu
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The turning for the much busier resort of Ágios Geórgios Argyrádon heads down just west of Argyrádes. Development sprawls for about 2km (a mile or so) along the frontage road, but the beach is as good as Agía Varvára or Marathiá, made of the same golden sand. The resort strip ends at bit further west at Íssos 9 [map], which borders the lagoon of Korissíon. Drivers are better off returning to the main road, head west and then descending at the signposted turning. The scenery at Íssos is quite wild, with high dunes providing shelter for nudists, and large wind-carved rock outcrops. This was a setting for a chase scene in the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only. Windsurfing conditions are excellent, and a small school operates locally.
On the far side of the channel that feeds the brackish lagoon is Halikoúnas beach, perhaps not quite as spectacular as Íssos but also with a kitesurfing school, pockets of naturism, beach bars and a better selection of full-service tavernas at the far end. Road access is via Áno Mesongí, past a memorial to the Serbian Drina Division and the octagonal structure of Byzantine castle of Gardíki ) [map] with well-preserved ramparts, although partially destroyed inside.
Kávos
Southeast of Marathiás sprawls a fertile landscape devoted to fruit orchards, market gardens, yet more olive groves and Corfu’s principal wine-producing region. Lefkímmi is the hub of this working agricultural region, bypassed by a very fast road that goes all the way to the southern tip of the island. Kávos ! [map] is the end of the road, the last resort – in just about every respect. To Corfiots and foreigners alike, the name is synonymous with young booze-fuelled revellers, clubbing and partying. But lately its abundant accommodation and dozen music clubs work to half-capacity at best, even in July and August. That said, the soft sandy beach that extends for 3km (nearly 2 miles) shelves gently and is popular with families earlier in the season. Boat excursions leave from here as well.
About 3km south lies Cape Asprókavos, Corfu’s southernmost tip, and the disused monastery of Panagía Arkoudílas, overlooking the superb beach of Kánoula.
North of Kérkyra Town
The former fishing villages northwest of Kérkyra Town are now home to some of the island’s liveliest and most popular resorts. Kondókali and Gouviá lie within a sheltered lagoon about 8km (5 miles) from the capital. They are set back from the busy main highway and linked by a small road, with side tracks leading to sand and pebble beaches and a large marina.
Gouviá @ [map] is the more developed of the two, with a narrow, compacted sand beach dominated by large hotels. One section is even fronted with concrete so that the sea (shallow and still at this point) looks more like a municipal boating pond than the Ionian. The sheltered bay is largely taken up by an extensive yacht marina – appropriately enough, as it was once a Venetian naval base and the skeletal arches of an old Venetian arsenáli (boatyard) survive at the end of Gouviá’s beach.
Across the pretty bay you can see the little church of Ypapandí (Candlemas; Presentation of Christ), which juts out on a stone spit rather like the famous ‘Mouse Island’ vista. Beyond the confines of the lagoon is Lazarétto £ [map] island, with a grim history – the Venetians established a leprosarium on it, the World War II occupying powers confined (and shot) members of the Greek resistance here, and after the Greek civil war it served as a place for executing condemned communists.
Pier at Dassiá
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The resort of Dassiá features dense olive groves between the main road and the sea, but otherwise consists merely of a long string of restaurants, shops and bars along a very busy main road. A long, narrow and often crowded beach is tucked away down side roads, with various water-sports on offer. The continual stream of colourful parasails against the blue sky – with olive groves and mountains in the background – is a fine sight.
To escape the hustle and bustle, wander inland on an uphill journey past quiet villas and olive groves to Káto Korakiána $ [map]. Here, installed in an old, three-storey Venetian villa, is the National Gallery Annexe of Corfu (Mon, Thu, Sat–Sun 8.30am–3.30pm, Wed, Fri 10am–2pm, 6–9pm; www.nationalgallery.gr). There are 150 works of prominent Greek painters from all eras since 1830, on permanent loan from the Athens parent collection.
Watersports at Ýpsos
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The contiguous resorts of Ýpsos and Pyrgí flank a wide, beautiful bay about 15km (9.5 miles) north of Kérkyra Town. They have fallen somewhat on hard times, and are trying to re-invent themselves as family havens after many years of patronage by armies of young, largely British singles. The long, narrow beach lining the bay is a mixture of sand and shingle, with excellent water sports facilities.
In times past, Ýpsos Bay was a target for pirates and Ottoman raiders; supposedly the name Ýpsos (‘heights’) was a ruse to dissuade them from mounting an attack. Pyrgí, meaning ‘tower’, probably derives from watchtowers built to warn of imminent raids. The resorts themselves are recent creations, developing around resettlements of villagers from Ágios Márkos whose homes were destroyed by landslides in the 1950s. Ýpsos at least has retained its fishing fleet, tucked away in an attractive little harbour behind the road as you enter from the south.
The tranquil old village of Ágios Márkos % [map], signposted just outside Pyrgí, is worth a detour for glorious views of the coastline, and two churches. At the top of the village is the 16th-century Church of Christ Pandokrátor, with fresco-covered walls. Some 500m/yds south of the village, 11th-century Ágios Merkoúrios and Profítis Ilías is Corfu’s oldest Byzantine church, with vivid frescoes including Saint Marina slaying the devil on the north wall. This church is usually locked; the priest, who lives in Pyrgí by the health clinic, keeps the key.
Making the ascent
It is also possible to get to the top of Mt Pandokrátor from the northeastern part of the island. A good tour choice is to go up one side and come down the other.
Mt Pandokrátor
Just beyond the Ágios Márkos turn-off, a road leads to the top of Mt Pandokrátor (914m/2,833ft). Beyond a series of corkscrew bends you’ll be greeted by stupendous views over Ýpsos Bay. Just below the colourful village of Spartýlas, the road broadens out into a rolling landscape of fruit trees, fields and vineyards where some of Corfu’s finest wine is produced. Between Strinýlas and Petália, signs indicate the final approach to Mt Pandokrátor.
This side road is emphatically not to be driven in bad weather, and parking space at the summit is limited – best to leave cars below the final zigzag and walk up the last hundred metres. On a clear day you will be rewarded with unbeatable views: the entire sickle outline of Corfu and, over the narrow channel, a glimpse of Albania. To the south, in the blue Ionian Sea, lie the islands of Paxí and distant Lefkáda. Sadly, closer up the view now includes the aftermath of an August 2011 forest fire that devastated much of Mt Pandokrátor.
The summit monastery of Ypsiloú Pandokrátora ^ [map] (Apr–Oct 7am–12.30pm and 2.30–8pm; free), which shares space with an ugly, 86m (280ft) antenna erected by the 1967–74 military junta to beam propaganda into Albania, was constructed during the 17th century on the site of a 1347 vintage church that had been built by nearby villagers. Restored in recent years, it is a dark, peaceful haven with many frescoes and an ornate icon screen, but just one monk.
A Glimpse of Albania
All along its northeast coast, Corfu looks across at the mainland of Albania. At its nearest point – on the stretch between Kalámi and Ágios Stéfanos – the shore of this now-welcoming, ex-communist land is less than 2 nautical miles away. Day trips are a popular, if somewhat expensive, means of taking a quick look. The boat journey from Kérkyra Town to the Albanian port of Sarandë (Ágii Saránda) takes 40–75 minutes round trip depending on the type of craft used. Outings vary from the basic crossing, guided tour of ancient Butrint and buffet lunch (around €65) to a more elaborate trip including an inland foray to the heritage town of Gjirokastër and Lëkurësi castle near Sarandë (around €100). Agencies in every resort offer these excursions, but you can also book directly through the shipping companies, Ionian Cruises, at the New Port (tel: 26610 31649/38690; www.ionian-cruises.com) or Meander Travel at the Old Port (tel: 26610 37546; www.meander-corfutravel.com). Albanian-run Sipa Tours (tel: 26610 56415 or 6976 650713; www.sipatours.com) arranges less frantic, two-seven day or custom-length tours across southern Albania.
The Northeast
The dramatic beauty of northeastern Corfu begins above Ýpsos Bay and ends near Kassiópi, a lovely drive over a winding, narrow but paved road covering some 20km (12.5 miles). The road climbs sharply into the steep green slopes that overawe the coast, offering tantalising glimpses of the sea below. There are several viewing points along this cliff-side road, but most of the shore is hidden and often accessible only by narrow, steep tracks that plunge alarmingly. Some beaches can be reached only on foot. The best way to explore is by boat, which can be arranged from most jetties – self-skippering boat-hire is very popular here. It is worth noting that all the beaches from Ýpsos to Kassiópi are pebbly. Nonetheless, swimming is excellent at nearly all the beaches along this coast.
The shift from the mass-market resorts south of Ýpsos Bay to the small and relatively less-developed coves of the northeast peninsula comes at Barbáti & [map]. There is no steep track to negotiate here, just a gentle slope leading down to sea level, where olive groves shelter a long, pebbly and popular beach with all the usual water sports. The mountains rise steeply behind the beach, making an attractive backdrop. There is some music from beachside and roadside bars, but the atmosphere of Barbáti is very different from that of its southern neighbours.
The next resort along is Nisáki * [map], reached by a two-bend drive from the main road. The water here is a crystal-clear medley of greens and blues, though there is hardly room to spread your towel on its tiny pebble beach. It is undoubtedly a lovely spot, with tavernas, a cluster of shops and accommodation, but you will have to get here early (or late) to stake a beach claim.
Just a bit further on, Kamináki is a strong contender in the sweepstakes for ‘Corfu’s most terrifying beach descent’. There are two tavernas, a small watersports facility and around 100m (330ft) of attractive white-pebble beach. The next beach along, Krouzerí, is dominated by the large Nissáki Beach Hotel (http://nissakibeach.gr). You will have to share the pebbles with hotel guests, but the beach is of reasonable size and there are good water sports facilities.
Just beyond, at a tight hairpin turn, are signs pointing down to secluded Agní ( [map]. Parking at the road’s end is limited, so in peak season it’s best to arrive at Agní by boat from Nisáki or Kalámi. Agní is known to lots of happy diners, many of whom come here year after year to the three excellent tavernas that sit right on the picturesque beach.
Lawrence Durrell’s beloved ‘White House’ still stands at the far end of Kalámi , [map] bay. It is now part holiday lodgings (www.corfu-kalami.gr), part taverna, where you can enjoy the marvellous scenery that inspired him to write Prospero’s Cell (a hugely evocative read that describes Corfu in the days before tourism) between 1936 and 1939. Despite various vacation villas and an insensitive new hotel complex that defaces one side of the hills enclosing the bay, it remains a fairly tranquil resort.
Kensington-on-Sea
The northeast coast is sometimes dubbed ‘Kensington-on-Sea’ after the well-heeled British visitors who holiday here.
Charming Kouloúra ⁄ [map], one bay north, is scarcely large enough for a handful of fishing boats and a small taverna, but is one of the most picturesque and photographed corners of Corfu. A constant stream of buses, cars and motorbikes pull up at the large parking space high above on the main road to gaze down on its classic, tiny horseshoe harbour enclosed by tall cypresses. There is not a more typically Ionian view in the archipelago. Gerald Durrell, the brother of Lawrence, lived in Kouloúra and, while there, penned the amusing My Family and Other Animals.
Just past Kouloúra, yet another lovely white-pebble beach, far below, beckons invitingly to drivers from the clifftop road. It belongs to Kerasiá, an attractive low-key resort with a handful of villas. It is reached by the turn-off to Ágios Stéfanos or, for the energetic, via a 20-minute coastal path from Kouloúra. Ágios Stéfanos Sinión is the most exclusive of this coast’s beautiful bays. Fishing boats and yachts bob lazily in the circular harbour, ringed by whitewashed cottages and tavernas. From here, a minor paved road or another path leads to more exposed Avláki bay, the last in line before Kassiópi.
Not so long ago, Kassiópi ¤ [map] was merely a quiet fishing village. These days it’s a highly popular little resort. In fact, Kassiópi was a thriving settlement even in Roman times, visited by Cicero, Cato and Emperor Nero, among others. It is named after the god Zeus Kassios, a cult with origins in distant Syria, and the village church supposedly stands on the site of a temple built in his honour. Its successor, the delightful church of Panagía Kassópitra (Our Lady of Kassiópi), used to be the foremost shrine on Corfu before the arrival of St Spyridon. Its icons attest to the many miracles worked here. Opposite the church, the Angevins built a partly ruined medieval fortress during the 13th century to provide shelter for the locals from pirate raids.
The town is packed with tourists during midsummer, but the deeply indented harbour is still home to local fishermen. Nightlife is lively and Kassiópi has something of a party image with its tacky tourist bars. However, there are still several passably authentic Greek restaurants. Bathing beaches lie to either side of the resort, especially at Imeroliá, west of the castle headland.
The most spectacular portion of the coast road ends just before Kassiópi; beyond it gentler, shrub-covered foothills border a broad coastal plain blessed with an abundance of hayfields, vines and almond trees. The first sandy beach along this stretch, Kalamáki, is actually rather unattractive, as dull as its grey sand. Give it a miss and continue to Ágios Spyrídon ‹ [map], 3km (2 miles) further northwest, a small but attractive beach with fine golden sand, a taverna and great views across to Albania.
Belfry at deserted Paleó Períthia
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
An interesting break from the seaside is provided by the ‘ghost town’ of Paleá Períthia › [map] (Old Períthia, sometimes Áno Períthia), set on the northern slopes of Mt Pandokrátor and accessible by a turning opposite the road to Ágios Spyrídon. (Maps showing the road as unpaved are out of date.) Incredibly, Períthia was once the capital of Kassiópi district. Today there are just a handful of families resident in summer, operating a few tavernas with a beautiful view of the crumbling village and the mountain overhead. Simply sitting and savouring the peace and quiet here makes a journey well worthwhile.
No natural disaster overtook Paleá Períthia; its residents simply moved to the coast in search of work during the 1960s and 1970s. Cobbled lanes between the old stone houses, slowly being done up, and churches, provide a haunting glimpse of old Corfiot life. In spring this valley is a great spot for naturalists, who can spot hundreds of butterflies, birds and wild flowers. The long-distance Corfu Trail passes through here, descending from a saddle on the flank of Mt Pandokrátor.
Channel of Love
The most famous of Sidári’s many rock formations is the Canal d’Amour. Legend has it that anyone who swims through this narrow channel (when the water is in shade, according to some versions) will find the man or woman of their dreams. The problem is that the original Canal d’Amour, topped by a sea arch, collapsed long ago, and today nobody can quite decide which is the ‘official’ Canal d’Amour. If you are in search of love, take no chances and swim through them all.
The North
Corfu’s north shore features an 8km (5 mile) expanse of sand stretching from Cape Róda through Aharávi and beyond to Cape Agía Ekateríni. Although the width of the beach and its sand quality varies, the sea is very shallow for a long way out, making it popular with young families.
From the main highway, a number of side roads go down to Almyrós beach, with two holiday complexes. Further on, don’t be put off by the roadside sprawl of tourist facilities at Aharávi fi [map]. The side roads leading to its long beach are lush with olive and citrus trees, giving this relatively new resort much laid-back charm, as does the ‘Old Village’ on the south side of the road, opposite the water pump.
The neighbouring resort of Róda fl [map] is quite heavily developed with several older buildings, narrow streets and a pretty little square still surviving among the tavernas, gift shops and touristy bars and restaurants. The remains of the 5th-century BC Doric temple of Apollo have been discovered here, but despite a signpost, there is nothing to see.
The booming resort of Sidári ‡ [map], 39km (24 miles) from Kérkyra Town by the most direct road, is by far the most developed on the north coast and its main street reflects many of the less savoury aspects of mass tourism on the island. Nonetheless, a picturesque little village square survives, with a charming church. The broad, sandy main beach has very shallow warm water and a wide range of water sports. Sidári’s finest feature, however, is the series of striking coastal rock formations flanking the resort on the west.
The striated sandstone here is continuously carved by the wind and the sea into sandy coves with caves and ledges (some of which are very good for diving). There are a number of adjacent bays to explore, becoming more spectacular the further west you go. At the last bay you can go no further and, for your own safety, a fence blocks the top of the bluff. The view from here – of the giant cliffs tumbling straight down into the sea – is breathtaking.
From Sidári (and also from Ágios Stéfanos Gýrou), boat trips run to the three small islets lying to the northwest, known collectively as the Diapóndia Islands. Going clockwise, these are Mathráki, Othoní and Eríkoussa, and are famous both for their fishing grounds and fervent Italian patronage. Othoní is the largest and most mountainous, and the westernmost point of Greece, and is occasionally visited as a day trip from Ágios Stéfanos only, along with hilly, green Mathráki, the smallest islet, but with a long, sandy beach. Eríkousa has a pair of excellent sandy beaches and attracts the most visitors, from Sidári especially. Each island has at least one taverna and one place to stay overnight – two or three establishments in the cases of Othoní and Mathráki – but you’ll have to reserve well in advance for summer.
Perouládes panorama
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Stunning views of the northwestern tip of Corfu await at Perouládes ° [map], 2km (1.2 miles) west of Sidári. Follow signs through the village for Longás beach; from the car park at the road’s-end, a flight of steps leads down to this narrow, but eminently scenic beach at the base of sheer, gold-grey striated cliffs. There are no facilities on the beach itself, but the restaurant on the cliff top by the top of the stairs provides a fantastic place to watch the sunset. From the village, another track leads out to Cape Drástis, the island’s northwestern tip, where you’ll discover a pretty cove and more interesting offshore rock formations.
The Northwest
Ágios Stéfanos Gýrou · [map] (not to be confused with Ágios Stéfanos Sinión on the east coast), also called San Stefano, is a popular family resort with a long, wide beach of compacted sand and pebbles ending at white cliffs. West of the resort, small boats depart from the fishing harbour to the Diapóndia Islands. From the port, a path leads out onto Cape Kefáli, the western-most point of Corfu.
A 45 minute cliff-top walk to the south (or a roundabout inland drive) leads to Arílas in the next bay. This low-key resort is less developed than its neighbour – perhaps because the gently shelving beach is much smaller and narrower.
Easily the finest, and best-protected beach in the far northwest lies beyond yet another headland (Cape Aríla) at Ágios Geórgios Págon º [map]: a long (2km/1.2 miles) crescent of coarse sand. Water sports (including scuba diving) are available, and the water is deep and clean. There are stunning views over the bay from the cliffs at Afiónas, a picturesque village on the sheltering headland that ends at a little lighthouse.
Alkinoos’s palace
Many claim that Paleokastrítsa was the site of the reputedly fabulous palace of King Alkinoös. Its magnificent setting is indeed fit for a king.
Paleokastrítsa’s monastery
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Paleokastrítsa
You can reach the most celebrated beauty spot on the island by a fast, paved road from Kérkyra Town; the distance is 25km (16 miles). During the 1820s Paleokastrítsa ¡ [map] was a favourite picnic spot for High Commissioner Sir Frederick Adam, and it is said that he had the first road built across Corfu especially to reach it. (To justify the expense he proposed constructing a military convalescent home there, but it was never built.)
Several small coves with incredibly clear turquoise water nestle in a coastline of hills and promontories draped in olive, cypress and lemon trees. Strips of partly sandy, partly shingle beach ring the shoreline, and sea grottoes yawning out of sheer cliffs provide employment for the local boatmen who ferry visitors to and fro. Some way south in the sea, a large ship-shaped rock known as Kolóvri is said to be the petrified Phaeacian ship that once bore Ulysses home.
‘Paleó’, as it is sometimes called, was never a village as such, but merely the port of the hilltown of Lákones. The year-round population is said to be less than 50, but this is hard to believe during the high season, when several hundred Corfiots move down from their hillside homes to cater for the crowds that flock to this scenic spot.
Fortunately, no building has been permitted to crowd the bright little monastery of Theotókou (daily 9am–1pm and 3–8pm; free) that perches on the main, wooded promontory. You must dress appropriately to enter, and suitable wraps are provided at the gate for women. Established during the 13th century after the discovery here of an icon of the Virgin Mary, the monastery was rebuilt following a fire in the 17th century. Today it is a lovely, peaceful haven, and many thousands of photographs have been taken of its delightful patio, where a picturesque, creamy-yellow, typically Ionian bell tower decked with pink bougainvillea is set off by a brilliant blue sky. Its three bells represent the Holy Trinity. Visit in the evening when there are few visitors and the soft light is at its best.
A tiny museum harbours ancient icons, vestments and various oddities, including an old olive press, huge wine barrels, a giant clam and some enormous bones – ‘part of the skeleton of a huge sea monster which was killed by the crew of a French ship in 1860 in the waters by the monastery’, enthuses the caption on the latter item. The poor creature was in fact probably a whale. As you enter the monastery church, you may be given a candle to light; a donation, or patronage of the monastery shop, is expected.
Pink rocks and deep-blue ‘eyes’
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Paleó’s main beach of Ágios Spyrídon is the most crowded, but is the departure point for boat excursions to Corfu’s only sea caves and grottoes, with their mysterious pink rocks and blue ‘eyes’ – extremely deep holes that, with the play of sunlight, turn an incredibly deep blue colour. A longer trip can be made north from Paleokastrítsa to Ágios Geórgios Págon – a beautiful voyage, chugging past jagged cliffs that dwarf your tiny vessel. If you are lucky, you might see the dolphins that often cavort in these waters.
The finest view of Paleokastrítsa is from the precariously perched balcony-village of Lákones, high above the coastline and accessed by a twisty paved road, or a marked path. A little further on, at a café called – with some understatement – Bella Vista, is a magnificent panorama that ranks among the finest in Europe; in pre-café days, this was a favourite picnic spot for High Commissioner Adam and his Corfiot wife.
The huge Angelókastro fortress
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From Paleokastrítsa (‘Little Old Castle’) you can see the massive walls of Angelókastro ™ [map] (Mon–Fri May–Sept 8.30am–3pm, extra hours as funding permits), which may have been built during the 12th century by Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Komnenos; it certainly existed by 1272, when Norman raiders from Sicily took it briefly. In 1537 several thousand Corfiots held out against Ottoman attack in this nearly impregnable citadel. From the car park at the foot of the castle, itself reached via the all-but-empty hamlet of Kríni, it is an easy, 10-minute climb to the summit with its little church of Ágios Ioánnis and some mysterious rock-cut graves adjacent. Little else is left inside the walls, beyond some cisterns, but the views from here are marvellous – it was a strategic watchpoint over the sea lanes to Italy, and in visual communication with Kérkyra Town’s Old Fort.
Backtrack through Kríni to Makrádes # [map], where the main road is lined with souvenir stalls and tavernas catering to tour buses. The village itself (off a side road to the left) is a brightly whitewashed cluster of houses with many picturesque corners. Just beyond Makrádes, follow the steep, but completely paved road to Pági. The first reward is the stunning vista of Ágios Geórgios Bay you get before you arrive. The second is the peaceful mountain village itself, crowned by an Ionian belfry.
Alternatively, you can join the main trans-island road at the Troumbétas Pass. Troumbétas means ‘trumpet’, and the pass is so called after the musically minded officer in charge of the road construction team who liked to stand on the pass above and blow his trumpet to call the crew to lunch. From here you can head north to Sidári or Róda, or return to Kérkyra Town via Skriperó.
Glyfáda’s long sandy beach, one of the finest on the west coast
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The West
The wide Rópa Valley opens out just inland from Paleokastrítsa and its gateway village of Gardeládes. This former marsh was drained by the Italians during their brief occupation in World War II, and is now the island’s agricultural heartland. South of Rópa, along the west coast, lie Corfu’s best beaches, with wide stretches of deep, golden sand.
The Rópa river flows down through the valley and out to the sea at Érmones, making it the main contender for the site where Odysseus was found by Nausika and her retinue. The bay is picturesque, but its small (100m/330ft wide) beach of sand and pebble is not particularly attractive and is hemmed in by hotel and bungalow developments. The main hotel runs a somewhat rickety funicular service down to the beach.
By contrast, Myrtiótissa ¢ [map] was described by Lawrence Durrell, over 70 years ago, as ‘perhaps the loveliest beach in the world’, but today it is perhaps the most overrated beach on Corfu. Although the access road (signposted at Kelliá village, near Pélekas) is now paved, it is still dauntingly steep as it worms its way down forested cliffs, and except in spring or autumn, parking is hopeless (there is a car-park of sorts up by the handy Bella Vista taverna, and the local monastery, as well as turning leeway). Most days, the beach is a diamond-shaped lozenge of sand at best 40m (130ft) broad, with offshore boulders to baffle the waves and several drink, trinket and umbrella stalls compounding the space problem. It’s usually wall-to-wall, uniformly naked bodies here, as this is the island’s designated naturist cove – perhaps rather scandalously more or less in full view of the 14th-century monastery of Myrtiótissa, uphill to the north (open 9am–1pm and 5–8pm, but doorbell not always answered).
Adjacent to Myrtiótissa as the seagull flies, but via a roundabout land route, is a beach more worthy of acclaim, Glyfáda ∞ [map]. Against a backdrop of crumbling cliffs with rock formations at either end, this 450-metre stretch of sand is one of the finest on the island, and accordingly popular with day trippers from Kérkyra Town and other resorts – as well as many Greeks and Italians in July. Swimming is superb; the water is initially shallow, but deepens further out. There is often a bit of surf for body boarders, as well as periodic strong undertow at the northern end (as on many beaches along the west coast). Glyfáda is somewhat overwhelmed by two large hotel complexes, but there’s no arguing with the four-star sand and amenities (including showers, sunbeds and water sports).
A steep hill leads up from Glyfáda to the village of Pélekas § [map]. Today it is busy and commercialised, full of travel agencies, restaurants, cafés and rooms for rent. Nonetheless, it is still an attractive place and makes a good coffee or meal stop – if you can find a parking place. Follow signposts to the famous Kaiser’s Throne, just above Pélekas on a high ridge. At this panoramic viewpoint, Kaiser Wilhelm built a small telescope point to watch the spectacular sunsets. From here, at certain times of the year, the sun appears to slide diagonally down the hillside and into the sea. The views at any time are excellent, from Paleokastrítsa in the west to Kérkyra Town in the east.
The closest beach to Pelekás, well signposted below the village, is Kondogialós, reached by yet another steep, winding access road. It’s actually longer than Glyfáda, at about 700m (2275ft), though the beach is a bit narrower, with a portion of rocky shore providing good snorkelling in crystal waters. Wooden boardwalks cross the burning sand, and there’s some free parking available at the far north end (most west-coast beaches have unavoidable, stiff parking fees collected by roving wardens). Development comprises a handful of tavernas and a large hillside hotel complex.
Sinarádes
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The unspoiled hill town of Sinarádes ¶ [map] lies 5km (3 miles) south of Pélekas. Towards the north end of Sinarádes, opposite the Venetian-style church tower, signs point up a stair street to the History and Folklore Museum of Central Corfu (Tue–Sun 9.30am–2pm). This minimally restored traditional Corfiot house, of a type prevalent between 1860 and 1960, contains two floors crammed with artefacts and documents. The ground floor has been left more or less as it was when inhabited, with cooking and hearth implements in the kitchen plus mocked-up salon and bedroom. The star of the single room top-floor gallery, mostly devoted to farming and craft tools (including a shoemaker’s workbench), is a portion of a papyrélla raft, made of cane fennel, used along the west and northwest coasts of Corfu until World War II. Other oddities include a moray eel trap, a wicker cage to keep toddlers from wandering off, and two special saddles used by village women when giving birth.
The scenic bay of Ágios Górdis • [map], enclosed by shaggy slopes (but rather dominated by the giant Pink Palace backpackers’ complex), is punctuated by a massive pinnacle rising from the water at the southern end – an excellent spot for snorkelling, as are the rocks at the northern end. The 600-metre sand-and-shingle beach, despite being far from the best on Corfu, can get crowded in season, as the resort just inland is sizable.
A Chip off the Old Block
According to Greek mythology, the sea god Poseidon created Paxí by striking off the southern part of Corfu to make a retreat for himself and his mistress, Amphitriti. Kirki (Circe), the enchantress who in Homer’s Odyssey detained Ulysses on her island and turned his men into swine, supposedly came from Paxí.
Excursions
Both the idyllic island of Paxí (the ancient Paxos) and the nearby Greek mainland are easily accessible for day trips out of Kérkyra Town, Kávos and Benítses. Corfu travel agents can provide you with information on such excursions and on ferry schedules if you wish to stay longer.
The harbour at Gáïos
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Paxí
One of the most delightful island experiences in the Mediterranean awaits you just 10 nautical miles south of Corfu. Tiny, verdant Paxí ª [map], the smallest of the seven principal Ionian Islands – approximately 11km (7 miles) long and 5km (3 miles) wide – has some 300,000 olive trees and about 2,400 permanent residents. It is famous for the quality of its olive oil; to this day Paxí earns almost as much from olives as from tourism. This quiet, relatively un-commercialised island is wonderfully tidy – there is virtually no litter or roadside rubbish; while houses, villas, shops and restaurants are maintained and painted as if in preparation for a competition for the best-kept Greek island.
The clear, limpid waters off Paxí are irresistible. The island has no natural sandy beaches, though off the shingle strip at Lákka the bottom is pure sand. However, you’ll find excellent swimming from flat rocks and numerous pebbly coves around the shoreline, even if many are accessible only by boat. There is a small strip of imported sand on the islet of Mogonísi in the far south, but it is nearly always crowded.
Sea caves in the towering cliffs along the west coast are truly spectacular, and the blue water there is so dazzling in its intensity that snorkelling is something you won’t soon forget. The sea depth off these sheer rocks plunges from 25m to 90m (82ft to 295ft), with fish of varying sizes gliding along in schools, at different levels. The largest of these caves, Ypapandí, was said to be a lair of Poseidon. A modern legend has it that a British submarine hid here for many months during World War II, venturing out on occasion to conduct its valiant operations. Soaring out of the sea along this stunning coast is Orthólithos – a huge finger of rock that has been hewn out of the cliff face by the elements.
Peaceful Paxí often appeals to those who want to get away from it all. But this can be difficult in midsummer, especially in the first three weeks of August, when the tiny island becomes a magnet for Italian tourists. Then, prices swell accordingly and accommodation is heavily booked. The island has only two large hotel complexes; other accommodation is in fairly upmarket villas and apartments, though visitors who want to stay only a few nights can often find rooms to rent in private houses. However, in high season it’s sensible to book well in advance.
As a day tripper, you normally get a whistle-stop tour of Paxí (including its sea caves) and Andípaxi, where you don’t even go ashore – boats merely anchor for a swim. To do Paxí justice, you should visit on a scheduled ferry and plan to stay at least two nights – enough time to see all the island’s highlights and savour its relaxed atmosphere.
From Kérkyra Town, ferries to Paxí all go via Igoumenítsa, but schedules change frequently so enquire at the ferry agencies. The journey takes up to three hours (via Igoumenítsa). There are also one-day excursions combining Paxí and Párga. In the high season there is sometimes a separate kaïki service between Gáïos and Párga, taking around 75 minutes.
All boats arrive at Gáïos, the small quayside capital of the island. The pretty waterfront square is lined with tavernas, shops and charming weathered houses, while handsome yachts fill the harbour.
Pretty Lákka on Paxí
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Any tour of this tiny island will also take in the delightful coastal villages of Lákka and Longós. Lákka is a pretty port situated around an almost landlocked bay on the northern island shore, ideal for water sports. It’s the island’s sailing capital and has several cafés and tavernas. From Lákka there is a pleasant walk to a lighthouse on the cliffs and – a bit further – to the inland monastery of Ypapandí, the oldest on the island, whose bell tower provides scenic views.
Longós (also spelled Loggós) is a quieter fishing village huddled around a lovely harbour. Here too, you’ll find numerous places to eat and drink. Two of the best Paxian beaches – Levréhio and Monodéndri – are also near here.
There is a regular bus service between the three main settlements, though it operates only during the day and early evening. Scooter hire is available. There are a handful of taxis, but it can be difficult (if not impossible) to find one late at night.
Walking around the island is an attractive option. Little-used tracks and paths along stone terraces and through mature olive groves end in idyllic hamlets. Along the roadsides you’ll see abandoned stone cottages and old olive presses, as well as lovingly tended grape arbours, cacti and bougainvillea in profusion. The surrounding hillsides are dotted with round stone towers of ruined, mastless windmills.
A popular walk leads from Magaziá, in the centre of the island, up to the tidy hilltop cemetery at the Ágii Apóstoli (Holy Apostles) Church, where there is a striking view of the chalk-coloured Erimítis cliffs.
Beach on Andípaxi
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Andípaxi
Andípaxi q [map] (Antipaxos) is an undeveloped island less than three nautical miles south of Gáïos; by shuttle-boat the journey takes 30 to 40 minutes. Cloaked in vineyards and lapped by transparent turquoise water, Andípaxi has only a handful of permanent residents, but attracts plenty of visitors who converge on the island’s two beaches. Little Vríka cove boasts an arc of fine, white sand, with tavernas at either end and a few beach umbrellas for hire. The nearby bay of Vatoúmi has brilliant-white pebbles along its coastal strip but a soft, sandy bottom underwater; there are tavernas, one on the hillside, one behind the beach.
Giant tree
Between Magaziá and Fondána stands the island’s largest olive tree – it takes five men with outstretched arms to embrace the huge twisted trunk. This giant stands in an incredible grove of 500-year-old trees, all still producing fruit faithfully every two years.
Swimming at both Vríka and Vatoúmi is superb, but don’t expect to enjoy them in solitude. Excursion kaïkia continually drop off bathers throughout the day, and numerous private boats also moor offshore. In high season, these sweet little beaches are often sadly overpopulated.
Párga
Párga w [map] village occupies an exquisite seascape on mainland Greece’s northwest coast, just east of Paxí. Its several consecutive bays are backed by verdant hillsides and dotted by offshore islands. As you arrive by sea, watch for the tiny island of Panagía, just off Kryonéri beach, crowned by a lonely church.
Like Corfu, this is by no means ‘untouched Greece’. Párga has been very commercialised for many years, with a profusion of restaurants, bars and tourist shops, none terribly different from those in Corfu. Yet, even after the picturesque, quiet appeal of Paxí (excursion boats may visit the two in succession, so comparison is inevitable), Párga is still a delight. Its spectacular setting and views and quiet narrow whitewashed streets have an appeal all their own.
A Venetian castle built around 1400 on an earlier Norman structure looms above the promontory immediately to the north of the town. The climb up Párga’s steep streets to the castle is actually shorter than it looks from below and well worth the effort for the stupendous views. Be sure to follow the lanes around the base of the castle-hill for additional views of the next bay, Váltos, fringed by a long, splendid golden-sand beach.
Párga harbour
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If you have a day or two to spend in Párga, take the popular boat trip up the River Ahérondas (Acheron), thought to be the mythological River Styx – the gateway to the Underworld. It concludes at the Nekromanteion, the Oracle of the Dead. Here, in a subterranean chamber, the ancient Greeks sought contact with the souls of the departed, under the auspices of the local priests of Hades, the Lord of the Underworld.
