Peaches and nectarines
“Life is better than death, I believe, if only because it is less boring and because it has fresh peaches in it.”
Thomas Walker
Peaches and nectarines love warmth. They are at home in Mediterranean countries: if you want to grow them in Britain, you need to find a way of replicating Mediterranean conditions. This could be a warm, sheltered spot, if you are in a very favoured part of southern England, but it is more likely to be a warm wall or even a greenhouse if you are north of the Midlands.
Both peaches and nectarines are difficult to grow in all but the most sheltered of locations, because of their tendency to contract peach leaf curl and to suffer frost damage. However, warming of the climate and the introduction of new cultivars are slowly making peach and nectarine growing a more realistic proposition, at least across southern Britain.
It is worth considering carefully before planting a peach, to make sure that you are not wasting the best site in your garden on a tree that will fruit only every few years, in a good summer. However, the rewards are great, so the decision must be yours. It is very tempting to consider how you will use up a glut of peaches, and English peaches straight from the tree are especially good.
Nectarines are a smooth-skinned mutation of peaches that are grown in the same way. They are a little more tender and are more demanding of warmth than peaches, so are largely confined to unheated greenhouses, apart from in the most favoured locations in southern Britain. At present there a very few parts of the British Isles where they can successfully be grown outside.
Left: Peach blossom.
The history of peach and nectarine growing
Despite their Latin name (Prunus persica), meaning ‘from Persia’, peaches are a native of China. They travelled along the Silk Road towards the Mediterranean, until finding favour in the Roman empire. It was the Romans who called them Persian apples, because they had arrived in Rome via Persia.
Although the Romans spread peach trees throughout southern Europe, it took many centuries for them to reach Britain, probably because of their lack of suitability for the British climate. It was only during the eighteenth century that they became popular in the fruit bowls of the aristocracy, grown in the greenhouses of their walled gardens. Head gardeners would compte to grow the finest peaches for their masters.
Cultivation of peaches and nectarines
Peaches and nectarines are usually thought of as Mediterranean fruits, but they can be grown successfully in the warmest parts of the British Isles, particularly if a sheltered location on a sunny wall can be found. Most varieties suffer to some extent from peach leaf curl, which can be a debilitating disease. The recent introduction of resistant varieties, such as Avalon Pride, has improved the outlook for peach cultivation. Nectarines are even more demanding of a warm, sheltered location.
For details of pest, disease and other problems with peach and nectarine trees, and how to deal with them, see Chapter 9 (pages 157-8). See Chapter 2 (page 34) for information on rootstocks.
Conditions
Aside from their strong preference for a sheltered position, peaches are tolerant of a fairly wide range of soils, so long as they are not waterlogged, particularly during the spring and summer. A deep, well-drained loam with a high humus content is ideal. Sandy soils are tolerated, so long as they are not too dry or shallow. Peaches grown on St Julien A rootstock are more accepting of heavy soils.
Peach blossom is prone to frost damage in the spring, particularly when temperatures fall below 1°C (34°F). Although peaches are thought of as a tender fruit, the trees are actually hardy to around -25°C (-13T).
High winter and spring rainfall is a problem because it facilitates the spread of peach leaf curl (see Chapter 9, page 157), which can be a debilitating condition in peach and nectarine trees, to the extent that it is best to exclude rainfall during these times in order to prevent the spores from reaching the tree. This is normally achieved by devising some form of removable cover, such as that shown in the photo opposite. This highly effective cover is made from a heavy-duty, reinforced polythene called Monarflex, stapled to a wooden framework; this particular cover is still going strong after nine years. More lightweight versions can also be effective, although they can be difficult to secure in strong winds. The one pictured here is bolted to the wall. Such a cover needs to be in place between December and April.
The other advantage of fitting a cover like this is that it will protect the flowers from frost damage. When the flowers emerge, it is good to open the cover during the day, particularly on warm, sunny days, so that pollinating insects can reach the flowers easily.
A home-made cover that will protect a peach tree from frost and winter rain.
Dwarf varieties of peaches and nectarines, or those grown on Pixy rootstock, are suitable for growing in containers. They have the added advantage that they can be brought into an unheated greenhouse during the late winter and early spring, avoiding the need for fitting a cover.
Feeding and watering
Peaches require careful feeding to give of their best. A good quantity of manure or compost applied in the early spring will provide the basic nutrients, as well as helping to retain soil moisture. From May until harvest, it is helpful to apply a liquid feed of tomato food or comfrey liquid every two weeks. Applying comfrey leaves as a mulch is also effective, though a little slower to have an effect. If you don’t have compost or manure available in large quantities, a general-purpose fertiliser, such as pelleted chicken manure, is a good substitute.
Careful attention to watering will also pay dividends: peaches need a good supply of moisture during the growing season. They also detest waterlogged soil, so a balance needs to be struck. Trees grown in the open will only need watering in a dry spell, but trees trained on a wall are likely to need regular watering during the summer months. Pot-grown trees will need watering almost daily in the summer. Remember that a good soaking every so often is much better than frequent applications of small amounts of water.
Pollination
Most varieties of peach and nectarine are self-fertile, meaning that just one tree will give a heavy crop. However, the flowers emerge at a time when few pollinating insects are active, particularly if the weather is poor. Hand-pollination is often necessary in order to produce a good crop. This is a method of spreading the pollen from flower to flower in the same way that a bee might do. The ideal tool for this is a very soft paintbrush, such as one made from wolf or camel hair. Cotton wool is also suitable. All you need to do is dab gently from one flower to another, picking up pollen as you go. (See photo on page 40). Warm, still conditions around the middle of the day are ideal.
Fruit thinning
Thinning peaches as they grow helps to give good-sized fruit in the current season, as well as helping to initiate the development of fruit buds for the following year. It is also best not to let peaches bear too heavy a crop, because the wood is brittle and liable to break. When the peaches are about the size of a marble, they can be thinned to about 10cm (4") apart. The June Drop will naturally occur a little later on; this can be followed by a second thinning to around 20cm (8") apart (15cm [6"] for nectarines). It can be difficult to remove the fruit cleanly, particularly when they are growing in pairs or clusters: using a pair of scissors to cut the fruit in half is just as effective. If the trees are allowed to crop too heavily, you will have small peaches and a good chance that the tree will crop only lightly the following year.
A branch of a fan-trained peach before and after thinning the young fruit.
Peach and nectarine varieties
There are thousands of peach and nectarine varieties, but only a few that are suitable for growing outdoors in the British Isles. Varieties resistant to peach leaf curl are increasingly available, but none yet are immune to this disease. Some varieties are naturally dwarf, as opposed to being reduced in size by the effect of the rootstock; these are well suited to growing in pots, or in smaller spaces against walls. Varieties that are late-flowering, such as Rochester and Peregrine, are less likely to be damaged by frost.
A genetically dwarf peach tree.
Recommended peach varieties
There are various types of peach and nectarine varieties suitable for growing in the British Isles, from the traditional British varieties such as Duke of York and Lord Napier through to flat peaches such as Saturn and the recently introduced Avalon Pride – discovered as a chance seedling growing in woods in Washington state, USA. The introduction of this variety has been a breakthrough in peach growing because of its high level of resistance to peach leaf curl.
The discovery of the peach variety Avalon Pride is one of those remarkable stories that light up fruit growing. For many years, the search had been on for a peach that was truly resistant to the debilitating disease peach leaf curl.
While walking in the Issaquah Woods, near her home in Washington state, USA, Margaret Proud had noticed a healthy-looking wild peach tree. Coming from a horticultural background, she realised the potential value of the tree and decided to propagate it, though was almost thwarted by a hungry bear that nearly destroyed the original specimen. Undaunted, she continued with her project, discovering only later that her tree was truly remarkable.
Avalon Pride not only produces delicious peaches but is also highly resistant (though not immune) to peach leaf curl. It is now revolutionising peach growing in the British Isles, where peaches have always struggled to cope with this disease.
Because nearly all peach and nectarine varieties are self-fertile, the flowering date is only relevant in terms of avoiding frost damage – in which respect late-flowering varieties are at an advantage.
The varieties in the chart here are listed in order of picking date.
* Where no details given on pest and disease resistance, this is because information is not readily available for these varieties. This is particularly the case for the less common varieties.
Recommended nectarine varieties
* Information on pest and disease resistance is not readily available for these varieties.
Nectarines are more demanding of warm, sheltered locations than peaches, most often being grown in cool greenhouses. For this reason, there is little information available about their disease resistance. The following are the best varieties for growing in the most favoured locations in the British Isles.
Pruning peach and nectarine trees
Peaches and nectarines fruit on the previous year’s growth, so the main aim of pruning is to remove older wood and encourage new growth that will fruit the following year. As with all stone fruits, pruning takes place during spring and summer, when the trees are growing strongly, allowing pruning cuts to heal quickly. Avoid pruning during the autumn and winter, because of the danger of infection by bacterial canker and silver leaf. Peaches and nectarines are less susceptible to silver leaf than are plums, but the disease can still cause problems. It is essential that all pruning cuts are left clean and that larger cuts are treated with a wound paint in order to avoid infection (see Chapter 9, page 140).
Peaches and nectarines are usually grown as a fan or a bush. Fan-training against a wall is the most common approach in Britain, because the trees benefit from the warmth and shelter provided by a wall and they are easier to protect from rain and frost. Growing peaches as bushes is probably realistic only for trees grown in containers, which can be brought inside for the winter, or for cultivars that are strongly resistant to peach leaf curl, such as Avalon Pride. Nectarines, being more demanding of warmth and shelter, are best grown against a wall, even in favoured locations in southern England.
A young peach tree trained as a fan. The growth is becoming too vertical and concentrated in the centre-tying growth down would be beneficial.
Pruning a peach or nectarine fan
Peach and nectarine fans are grown on a support of horizontal wires fixed to a (preferably) south-facing wall. A fan tree on St Julien A rootstock will need a wall space about 4.5m (14'6") wide and 2.5m (8') high. The first job is to erect a series of horizontal wires, spaced about 30cm (1') apart; the bottom one around 45cm (1'6") from the ground.
Year 1
Plant a feathered tree (one with small branches emerging from the trunk) during winter. Leave it unpruned at this time because of the risk of encouraging disease.
Diagram 47 Pruning a peach fan, first year, early spring.
During early spring, select two strong laterals low down on the trunk to become the main arms of the tree (see Diagram 47). Cut back the leader just above these laterals. Tie these two laterals to bamboo canes, then tie the canes to the framework of wires. The arms should be at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the trunk, but if one is less vigorous than the other, keep this one at a more vertical angle for a while. This will induce stronger growth in this arm, which can then be brought back to the 40/45-degree angle later in the year.
Cut back any growth below the selected arms to one or two buds. These will act as reserve laterals in case any problem arises with the selected ones. They can be cut out later in the year, once it is clear that the selected laterals are growing well.
Once the selected arms or laterals reach 40cm (1'4") from the trunk, they can be cut back to an upward-facing shoot. This encourages them to branch out lower down. If these laterals have not reached this length in the first year, wait until the spring of the second year before cutting them back.
Year 2
As more branches grow during the second year, tie the best placed of these to more bamboo canes, to develop the framework of the fan. Ideally you will have two shoots above the original arm and one below it.
Any growth that is not required, or is growing towards the wall or directly away from it, can be cut out. It is good to pinch back unwanted growth early, with fingers and thumb. This not only removes such growth before it causes congestion and shading but also keeps cuts small, making infection less likely.
Diagram 48 Pruning a peach fan, second year, early summer.
Diagram 49 Pruning a peach fan, third year onwards, spring to summer.
Year 3
Cut back the branches that have been tied in by around one-third, to a bud pointing in the direction of space that can be filled in. As new growth occurs, you are now starting to fill in the shape of the fan, with the centre of the tree the last to be filled in. By now many side shoots will be growing; during the spring, thin these out to 12-15cm (5-6") apart. During the growing season, continue pinching out unwanted growth, as in year 2, and shortening side shoots to around 10-15cm (4-6"). Keep tying in new growth to bamboo canes where it is required to fill in spaces in the framework.
Pruning an established peach or nectarine fan
Continue to remove unwanted growth and thin out side shoots, as described above. Shoots that are bearing fruit can also be shortened, always leaving a cluster of leaves after the flowers or young fruit. By now, you will notice that peach and nectarine trees grow vigorously: this new growth can lead to shading and congestion if not removed promptly, preferably by pinching out. Make sure that developing fruits do not become shaded. Pruning peach and nectarine fans is not a one-off task; it is a continuous process during the spring and summer.
Branches that have fruited soon become exhausted, so it is necessary to remove them, cutting back to a replacement shoot further back on the branch.
Diagram 50 shows how these replacement shoots are left unpruned in the spring, ready to be tied in as new growth later in the year. It is important to keep this process of tying in replacement shoots going, because established fans tend to become bare in the middle, with growth and fruit to the outside of the tree. Training in replacement shoots is the way to prevent this from happening.
Diagram 50 A branch of an established peach or nectarine fan in spring.
After fruiting, cut growth that has just fruited back to a replacement shoot that will fruit the following year. This process of continuing to cut or pinch back side shoots during the summer is important, particularly where the shoots are shading developing fruits.
Pruning a peach bush
Formative pruning is the same as for a plum bush (see Chapter 12, page 238). The exception to this is for genetically dwarf varieties, such as Garden Lady or Dixired. These will naturally form a small bush with minimal pruning. Diseased or misplaced growth can be removed, but otherwise the tree can be left to its own devices when young. Later pruning is the same as for other peach bushes.
Once an open-centred bush has been formed, the aim of pruning is to keep replacing fruited growth with replacement shoots that will fruit the following year. Firstly, remove any dead, diseased or damaged growth, followed by shoots that are rubbing or crowded. After this, cut back fruited growth and older branches that are becoming bare, to replacement shoots. This is a continual cycle, with about a third of the older branches being replaced each year. Cut out vigorous growth in the centre of the tree, leaving the centre reasonably open. Remove growth that is shading developing fruits, pinching rather than cutting where possible. (See Diagram 51 overleaf.)
Harvesting peaches and nectarines
As the fruits start to ripen, they will become softer and get more of a red flush, depending on the variety. Once you notice this distinct softening, it is time to pick the fruit. It is easy to damage the fruit while picking, because they do not always part easily from the shoot on which they are growing. The best method is to cup your hand around the fruit and pull gently away from the branch. Fruits on one tree will ripen over a week or two, so repeat pickings will be needed.
Diagram 51 Pruning an established peach bush, summer.
Using peaches and nectarines
Fruits picked at this ripe stage won’t keep for long, but this is no hardship because they taste so good. Well-ripened home-grown peaches and nectarines are much better and juicier than anything you will find in the shops. I still remember my first English-grown peach. I was shocked that a peach grown in this country could taste so much better than the shop-bought peaches that I had eaten for years.
A mature peach or nectarine fan can produce around 70 or 80 fruits in a good year, so you might have to get used to a glut of the fruit, which can seem rather strange at first. In the event that there are too many for the fruit bowl, there are plenty of ways to cook them. Peach compote, peach flan and peach cobbler are all classic peach (or nectarine) desserts. The fruits also combine well with brandy and coconut, and are excellent baked.
Preserving
Because peaches and nectarines do not keep, you might need to find a way of preserving them for future use. Bottling in syrup or with alcohol, freezing and drying are all ways of preserving them intact. They can also be used for making jams and chutneys, or turned into peach wine.