Because the politics of the region are changing rapidly—Iran, for example, cut off for so long from open trade, recently signed a nuclear agreement with the world powers, so sanctions have eased dramatically—travel advice should be checked against the current situation, and then double-checked. If you would like to visit any part of the region, look online for visa requirements and be sure the information is up to date.
As of 2016, Georgia and Armenia are both easy to access; visas are issued at the border whether you arrive by land or by air. Azerbaijan and Iran are more difficult for most travelers in that visas for most nationalities are relatively expensive and require a longer lead time. The Azeri visa can now be applied for online, but it requires an invitation. As sanctions ease and Iran is welcomed back into full engagement with the rest of the world, visa requirements and delays should be less onerous. As for Kurdistan, when I went in 2014, I was stamped into Iraq at the airport in Kurdistan’s capital, Arbil, with no fuss. Since then there have been attacks by ISIL; Kurdistan is now overwhelmed with refugees from Syria and from other parts of Iraq. I am assured by Kurdish friends that most of the country is still easily accessible and is safe behind the protective wall of the Kurdish military (the Pesh Murga), but the situation is changing all the time, so do get updated information from a source you trust.
When you go, keep in mind that each country and culture has its own sense of propriety, and rules of social engagement. In Iran there are specific clothing rules for women: at a minimum, wear a long-sleeved top that covers you from the neck to almost the knees, over trousers, and a scarf on your head. You’ll want to dress with decorum in Kurdistan and Azerbaijan too, though there are no rules and people are fairly relaxed about foreigners’ attire. In the Muslim countries and in Kurdistan, don’t expect to find much alcohol (none legally in Iran; some in restaurants in Kurdistan and Azerbaijan, but little in private homes). Everywhere there’s a code of hospitality, and it’s important to be graceful about accepting generosity. It’s also a good idea to figure out ahead of time ways of reciprocating, even on a small scale. I like to carry presents with me to offer to people, small pieces of jewelry, for example. Good lipsticks and other makeup are another possibility, except in Iran, where all women are more knowledgeable about makeup than I could ever be.
There are hotels in Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia, but if you are interested in local food culture, I recommend homestays. You can find sites online, or even wait until you arrive in the country to figure out your homestay bookings. In Kurdistan, though, it’s best to book ahead, for there are often shortages of hotel rooms in the main towns.
As for Iran, it can take time to arrange a visa (depending on which passport you hold), but otherwise travel is quite easy. (Note that your visa will be denied if you hold an Israeli passport or have an Israeli entry stamp in your passport.) As tourism has started to boom, there is a shortage of hotel rooms, so accommodations can be tight. You’ll want to make reservations in the larger cities, especially if you are traveling in high season (spring or fall). There are also now a few guesthouses in smaller towns. For those, check online or with an Iranian travel agency. If you have only a short time, you might want to go with a tour. Remember that distances are huge. Don’t hesitate to fly or take a train between cities. And take your time. Try to resist the urge to rush around and “see it all.” When you stop and hang around, especially if you have the luxury of traveling on your own, you open the possibility of meeting people and having interesting conversations. There’s nothing better.
Isfahan, Iran—A man taking a mouthful of havij bastani, a kind of ice cream float, made with Persian ice cream and carrot juice. The ice cream, bastani, is very sweet, made with eggs, milk, and sugar; flavored with pistachios, saffron, and rosewater; and thickened with salep (powdered orchid root), which gives it a firm, mouth-satisfying texture.